- Good morning, I hope
you're having an amazing day.
It's Mark Wiens, I'm in Lahore, Pakistan,
and today, I'm in the Walled City,
which dates back to the year 1000.
It's the ancient center of Lahore.
Today we're gonna go on a full tour
of the Walled City of Lahore.
We're gonna eat some of the
most amazing street food.
We are gonna see some of the famous sites.
I'm gonna meet up with
my friend Ali and Malik.
And I'm gonna share everything
with you in this video, right now.
(electronic chill out music)
We're starting off our this morning,
at a place, it's called Phajja Siri Paye.
They are one of the most legendary places
to eat the dish called Siri Paye,
which is the goat trotters,
goat feet, stewed,
this will be my first time to try it,
but it smells incredibly good.
Yeah, this is a place I'm
very excited to eat at.
They're open 24 hours, are they making it.
- They're open 24 hours, so
they're constantly making it,
for example, that one is made,
now getting him making it.
- [Mark] Never closes?
- Never closes, exactly.
- It's like a meter
and a half diameter pan
that's filled with this
bubbling, it looks thick,
thick from the collagen and the fat,
bubbles away like a pan of lava,
and then he just continually,
kinda, like, stirs,
and sort of, rehydrates those feet,
which are sitting, which are
elevated on a little podium.
They have two different
bowls you can order.
One of them is with goat brains,
and then, the other version is goat feet,
he takes a couple of the goat feet,
he puts them back them into
the swimming pool of boy,
bubbling cauldron of broth,
and then he adds those to your bowl,
and then finally, again, sprinkles it
with some (speaks in
foreign language) powder
to finish it up.
Oh, it smells incredible.
Just coming upstairs because
there's nice light up here,
and they have a whole family
dining section up here.
(car honks
- [Man] I want to say that thank you.
- Sure, yes.
- Thank you.
- You're welcome.
How was the Siri, did you already eat?
- Yes.
- The Siri Paye?
- Yes.
- Was it good?
- It is our cooking at best,
and good taste.
- We're not sure the story
behind the heart-shaped
(speaks in foreign language)
but they gave us
some heart-shaped (speaks
in foreign language).
Which one do you wanna start with?
- I will just go for the Paye first.
- Okay.
- [Ali] Paye, it's the main dish.
- You can just see how
thick that gravy is,
and this is more like a stew,
but then you see though, it's just like,
kind of like gelatinous
chunks of the entire,
the entire chunks on, you can kinda, whoa.
That is jelly.
That is jelly.
(upbeat music)
Oh ho ho.
That thing is just like
straight-up melted,
melted collagen and fat.
- Fat lovers paradise, I would say.
(men laugh)
- Yeah, that's about right.
The fat has been boiled for so
long that it's rendered down.
So it's not like a layer
of fat but it's just like,
kind of been rendered into the sauce.
It's like, oozy.
It's oozy, liquid ooze.
(upbeat music)
Oh yeah, that looks
like a little toe bone.
It's so soft like you would
not need teeth to chew that.
Then let's move on over to the brain.
And you can see that
chunks of brain in here.
And then again, it's that same stew.
Looks like a nice, little
nugget of cottage cheese.
(upbeat music)
Brain is awesome.
So creamy, it's so rich, but
then it's like the creaminess
is actually mellowed out by
the richness of the stew.
So you taste the rich fattiness of it.
On top of the rich fattiness of the brain.
Richness on top of richness.
(upbeat music)
Brain one is amazing.
That was very comforting.
A little on the fatty, oily
side to get the morning started.
But I have to admit I really
enjoyed the brain stew one.
Okay, we're moving on.
(men speaking in foreign language)
Right outside of the restaurant,
there's a man selling something called
(speaks in foreign language)
and it just looks cool
so I just had to stop and get a piece.
Made from jaggery and
made into a little toffee.
And then there's sesame
seeds and peanuts on top.
(car honks)
Yeah, that is like a toffee.
It's like a, yeah, it sticks to your teeth
and you taste that
brown sugar taste to it.
Like a burnt, caramelized sugar coat.
Very good, thank you.
(mysterious music)
We made it to the Delhi Gate and I believe
that there are 12 gates that
you can enter within the Walled City.
But the entire Walled City it
dates back to the year 1000.
But then it was conquered
during the Mughal empire.
And then it was really
developed during that time.
So a lot of the buildings,
especially some of the mosques
and the fort were developed
and built during Mughal empire.
Something I love about
the Walled City is that
it's just, I mean it's a living museum.
There's businesses, there's
markets, there's restaurants,
there's stalls, there's jewelry shops.
It's just everybody
going about their lives
but within this old, ancient section
of the city surrounded by the wall.
And we're gonna just walk
around and explore now.
(adventurous music)
- [Man] Number one plate.
- [Mark] Okay.
(vendor speaks in foreign language)
Thank you.
- [Ali] You can sit here.
- Perfect.
Basically, just entered the Walled City
and we're just starting to walk around
but we had to stop for a quick snack
just because Ali saw it.
It's a lentil stew with chicken in it
and it's served in this
giant, metal-rounded pan.
He seasoned it with ginger, chilies,
there's some mint on top of there.
And then also a squeeze
of seasoning (speaks in foreign language).
Oh nice.
I think there's some fried
shallots or garlic on there too.
So good.
That's like,
way more flavorful and
better than I expected.
Not only do you have the
yellow lentils in there
but also chicken and you got the ginger
in there, the chilies, oh,
it has that caramelized nuttiness to it.
Oh man, that is good.
(man speaks in foreign language)
I'm seriously just pleasantly surprised.
That's delicious.
One more (laughs).
I couldn't resist.
Can I see in it?
(man speaks in foreign language)
(oil sizzles)
(Mark laughs)
(playful music)
This time we're getting the super-sized.
We were gonna stop at
that one small plate.
But then he offered to give us a refill.
I couldn't resist because it's so good.
Normally, they have this,
this Tupperware of seasoning here
that you can season on
your own normally, right?
- Yeah.
- But he seasoned it so
perfectly, I asked him
to season it again this bowl for us again
'cause he knows what he's doing.
And the owner just brought
over a (speaks in foreign language).
Oh man, he gave us a serious
dosage of butter in this plate.
And just to show it all.
I think what makes it for me
is the ginger and the chilies.
- Oh man.
- At first I thought
that there's (laughs).
- Could he just make it perfect.
- (laughs) At first, there's
just gonna be a little taste,
a little taste test but
we may as well go all out.
It's so good.
(adventurous music)
Oh.
He seasoned this one even better.
- [Ali] We just stop
here to take few bites
and then this is our second plate.
- It's amazing.
I'm like blown away how good that is.
(Mark speaks in foreign language)
This is the shop.
Oh yeah, I mean, we wanted to pay.
He would not accept payment.
He's so nice.
See the two giant cauldrons of the stew
and it's right across from
the Wazir Khan Mosque.
Known to be one of the
most beautiful mosques
in the Walled City of Lahore.
There's multiple sections of
yellow and orange and blue.
And then contrasting with
the red-brown bricks.
(adventurous music)
We might need to have this.
(man speaks in foreign language)
We barely made it from
the last thing we ate.
I just saw the overflowing cart
and he's serving (speaks
in foreign language).
It mainly consists of these
little fried doughnuts
which he's made from (speaks
in foreign language) flour.
They sorta soak in a yogurt.
He puts 'em onto your plate
and he adds on a number of chutneys.
He adds on some onions
and shredded cabbage.
He adds on some more yogurt,
some of the
yogurt that has mint
and cilantro within it
and then you've got a
full chuck of full snack.
These are the fritters
and they're very spongy,
they're kind of like saturated
with the yogurt and juices.
Oh yeah, nice.
Oh onion.
(person sings on megaphone)
It's so cool and refreshing.
Like, almost like corn bready
but made from (speaks in
foreign language) flour,
made from lentil flour.
So it's kinda like, it's
not as dense as it looks.
It's more airy and then
when it's soaked up
with the yogurt, it is definitely soggy
but that's what makes it good.
And then on this side,
there's more of a chutney,
which I believe would
might be a sweeter chutney.
(person sings on a megaphone)
Kinda tamarindy, or maybe
apricot, I'm not totally sure.
That's more of a sweet and sour
kinda chutney, maybe mango.
Oh that's gonna be your (mumbles).
(men speak in foreign language)
We are not making it very far
on this tour of the Walled
City but that's okay.
This is what we came to do.
We came with no plans so
we can just walk around
and see what we found.
But as we were eating that
(speaks in foreign language)
which is actually right
over the fence, over there.
They said we should come
check out this uncle,
who is making,
it's a lentil, chickpea soup.
Lentil, chickpea soup?
- [Ali] Yeah.
- He dips you out a
little scoop of the curry
when you order and then he
pairs it with a little bit
of onions and cabbage and then some
of the (speaks in foreign language)
which is like a pickle and it's served
with a, it's like a (speaks
in foreign language)
but it's the bigger size called
the (speaks in foreign language).
He twirls it in his finger
to release it into the oil.
But that's strategic, that's
key so that it lands in the oil
and bobs in the oil perfectly.
And then he just laps it with oil
until it's perfectly golden and puffs up.
I really wanna get some of that
(speaks in foreign language)
that's what really looks
like it stands out to me
and some of those vegetables as well.
Kinda pick some this up.
Oh that's delicious.
Oh the (speaks in foreign language)
oh the (speaks in foreign language).
You have to eat it
while it's hot and fresh
so that it's crispy yet
like gooey on the inside.
And then that stew is,
it is nicely creamy.
You taste like the cinnamon
kinda like nutmeg flavor of that
with that (speaks in foreign
language) which is kinda
a little bit spicy and a little bit sour.
(motorcycle honks)
Oh that (speaks in foreign
language) is amazing.
(motorcycles rev)
(Mark speaks in foreign language)
- [Ali] If you want, we can hold the bag
for you at the back.
- From here we are jumping into a rickshaw
and we're gonna drive around
and I'm gonna get the front seat.
So that I can see the view
and film from out here.
- [Driver] Your bag.
- Oh it's okay here?
Or maybe in the back,
yeah, maybe in the back.
You guys okay back there?
- Oh we perfect (laughs).
Just a big squeeze.
- Let's go.
(upbeat music)
Yeah, this is a great way to get
around the Walled City
of Lahore, old Lahore.
We're just navigating these streets.
They are literally just
like pedestrian lanes
and you just have to dodge
around motor bikes and push carts.
Yeah, it's so great.
I am loving this.
The people are friendly.
The streets are just so
vibrant and colorful.
And there's so many fabrics.
It's just like a never-ending market.
(rickshaw bumps)
- [Ali] Is the camera okay, Mark?
- Yeah, it's okay.
We just had a slight, minor crash.
Minor crash but all is okay.
Hopefully the guy who got
hit by the mirror is okay.
(Ali speaks in foreign language)
Quick stretch break.
There's just an endless
stream of mysterious alleys
and lanes and just the
wires and the buildings
and just loads like this just going past.
It really is just never-ending
fascination and excitement.
You can just walk around.
You can look and people are friendly.
Smell the aroma of food.
We have no idea what's down this alley.
We just had to, it just looks enchanting
so we had to come down this alley.
Again, just filled with, it's
just never-ending market.
There's food.
It's just bustling with people.
There's probably homes
and a community down here.
Market stall after market stall
of everything you could
possibly ever want.
(man speaks in foreign language)
Next up, we've just stumbled
into fruit (speaks in foreign language).
And so (speaks in foreign
language) is a type of snack.
And then this is all from fruit.
When you order, he dishes you a bowl
and then he sprinkles on
some (speaks in foreign
language) powder again.
This is a fruit snack Lahorey style.
Oh that's so good.
Oh that's like a fruit salad.
You've got that pomegranate seeds in there
which you crunch on then you
got the banana which is creamy.
Also the owner just mentioned
that it's apricot chutney,
which just makes the sauce,
which holds the whole fruit salad
or the whole fruit (speaks in
foreign language) together.
That is the secret,
that's what makes it good.
As he sells, he just keeps on mixing it.
So it stays fresh like that.
And then just counter balance
with that just slight hinge
of the (speaks in
foreign language) powder.
It's like fruit salad with the apricot jam
milkshake all together in one.
Oh and I just noticed there's
chickpeas in here too.
But they're crunchy chickpeas.
(motorbikes honk)
Thank you.
- Thank you so much (speaks
in foreign language).
- Thank you.
Oh man, people are just
so, people are so amazing.
Oh actually Ying is back in the (mumbles).
Oh hi Ying.
And we're just walking
but they're following us.
You feel like you're in a
totally different world.
Walking around this Walled City in Lahore.
It is, it's spectacular.
Okay, we're jumping back into the rickshaw
and we're on our way to go eat lunch.
(mysterious music)
For lunch, we've stopped at a
(speaks in foreign language).
This is a local restaurant
which has a selection of different dishes.
They have curries, they
have different rice dishes.
They have an assortment of
(speaks in foreign language)
and chickpeas so you
can come to the front.
You order your different dishes
and then they have a seating section
but I just, we got the permission
to come into the kitchen
to watch him as he assembles
some of the dishes.
And I think he actually
takes some of the dishes
that are already precooked
and then he heats them
in a (speaks in foreign
language) in a rounded pan
before you order them and
add some more like chili.
Actually, I think that must be key.
(man speaks in foreign language)
Whoa look at those skills.
Look at those skills.
I was busy watching the
chef as he cook the curries
and prepare the curries
but right behind me
the (speaks in foreign
language) making station.
The (speaks in foreign language) oven
and he is, he is flying.
He literally hammers
it, like drum rolls it
with his fingers then he
flats it in his hands.
Right onto the pillow in
literally like, three seconds,
it's within the (speaks
in foreign language) oven.
Whoa that is some skill.
(man speaks in foreign language)
I wanted to stand there and watch him make
the (speaks in foreign
language) all afternoon
but, okay, the food is almost coming.
We chose four different items.
And then he stewed them up.
He cooked them up so he boils them again.
So that makes them hot and fresh again.
And then some of the baskets made.
Some of the three-second
(speaks in foreign language).
I gotta scoop in for that liver first.
That liver there, oh yes,
and then also I wanna
grab that chili if I can.
Cheers.
(Mark laughs)
So creamy and that sauce is so rich
and just the spices are
so mellowed out together.
This is the type of (speaks
in foreign language),
a type of lentil.
(car honks)
Yum.
Thick from that (speaks
in foreign language).
You can feel the texture of that
in the (speaks in foreign language).
Gonna go in for some
of that chicken curry.
Oh ho, that's so warm,
warm and fluffy.
(adventurous music)
The chicken curry also.
It's rich but it doesn't taste too oily.
It does have that floating
layer of butter on top.
But then the curry is
almost milky tasting,
like creamy tasting.
Okay we got one more dish
which is a vegetable dish with,
looks like there's some potatoes and peas.
Oh actually it's turnip.
- [Ali] Turnip.
- It's turnip.
Oh I thought it was potato but
it's actually turnip, okay.
Oh yeah, that's delicious.
You taste that bitter
earthiness of the turnip
but it's cooked down, it's so soft.
Kinda like a roasted
cinnamony taste to it.
And finally some yogurt for cooling.
With cucumber.
(soft, adventurous music)
That turnip is amazing.
Okay I gotta try that liver again.
(soft, adventurous music)
Creaminess of that liver.
(car honks)
This little restaurant has it all.
The three-second (speaks
in foreign language) maker.
All of the Pakistani curries
and then the tea at the front,
where he whips it up.
He mixes the milk, he puts in the tea.
He stirs it up and then the best part
is when he puts it into your glass
and he pours it from a high elevation
so it gets that bubbly, frothy layer,
just creaminess on top.
And this is actually not
(speaks in foreign language),
this is (speaks in foreign language)
which is just milk with tea in it.
So just milk, no water.
Oh yeah, oh that soothes.
That's like creamy in a perfect kinda way.
It is milky and then you just got
that dark, strong, black tea flavor.
That's perfect actually, perfect.
Nice to meet you.
That was great.
This is a really local spot.
Oh man, these curries were great.
That tea.
Thank you.
Lunch was a success.
This is our ride.
(Mark laughs)
Yes.
And we're off.
(upbeat music)
After lunch we drove over to Lahore Fort
and it dates back when Lahore
was the Mughal capital.
The fort is now a UNESCO
World Heritage site.
I think they are negotiating
for a horse carriage.
We're gonna get on a
horse carriage, I think.
(upbeat music)
Yeah.
And I have the privilege
of riding shotgun.
Excellent.
(horse walks)
The breeze is cool.
The ancient buildings,
look at all of the birds.
So many birds, that's
something that you will notice,
being in Lahore but Ali
definitely has the right idea.
His hop on, hop off style.
- Say if you want the best solution,
ask the lazy guy (laughs).
(adventurous music)
- Right at the entrance
of Lahore actually,
there is a, one of the
largest, oldest mosques.
There's also a Sikh
temple and a Hindu temple
right all next to each other.
(adventurous music)
We made it to Badshahi Mosque and this is
again built in the Mughal empire.
It's one of the most iconic mosques.
And right across that's
the fort over there.
But we are gonna go into the,
the mosque here it's just,
the facade is in the front.
We're gonna climb the steps.
It's just this massive courtyard.
And this is where you
enter in the front here
and then in the front, there's the,
the triple domes, the domes are huge
and right now as the sun is
going down in the afternoon,
the sun is right behind the dome.
Yeah, the Mughal architecture.
Oh what I really like
is just the contrast.
Right now, the sun is
just shining off the red,
the red orange mud color
and then in the distance,
you got the
brown and colorful colors of Lahore
and the, if the old city
of the old Walled City.
Oh this is spectacular.
(adventurous music)
So we've come to the end of the day.
This has been an amazing
day in Lahore exploring,
especially the old Walled City.
I will have all the information
in the description box below
of everything that we did.
I wanna say a massive thank you to Ali,
from Landmark Communications
and Pakistan Travel Mart.
He's the one who invited us to Pakistan.
So if it wasn't for Ali, we wouldn't,
I wouldn't've been able
to make it to Pakistan
so thank you, Ali.
That's it, I'm gonna end the video now.
Thank you very much for
watching this video.
Please remember to give it a
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Good night from Lahore.
See you on the next video.
Thanks again for watching.
