

### CONDITIONED VICTIM? YOUR CHOICE

Helping you survive a violent and misguided society

Richard Wesson & Martin Hedington

SmashWords Edition

Copyright 2014 CCI

All Rights are reserved. Written permission must be secured from both the publisher and the author, to use or reproduce any part of this work in any format except for brief quotations in critical reviews or articles. The original printed book is still available at online retailers.

This eBook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only, it may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you're reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your enjoyment only, then please return to Smashwords.com or your favorite retailer and purchase your own copy. The publisher does not have any control over and does not assume any responsibility for author or third-party websites or their content.

Thank you for respecting the hard work of the authors.

Originally Published in softcover in SA by;

Community driven Crime prevention Initiative (CCI)

P.O. Box 6573, Birchleigh, Republic of South Africa, 1621

Email: Martin Hedington (mailto:m.l.hedington@gmail.com)

Cover designed by Renee Barratt from The Cover Counts.

ISBN No. 978-0-620-62683-5

Revised and updated E-version edited by Martin Hedington & Richard Wesson, 2014.

In Dedication

Firstly to the millions of people worldwide that use any of the following phrases; 1. "It all happened so fast, I couldn't do anything". 2. "Somebody should do something" and 3. 'Well, what can anyone do?" And lastly to my long-suffering wife, Maureen, who has yet to convince me that that people who think they don't need to be helped, can't be, because I simply cannot accept that as entirely true. Martin L Hedington

# DISCLAIMER

Conditioned Victim was written to help the reader take control of their own safety and lifestyle. Whilst every effort was made to discuss common (South African) scenarios, it's highly doubtful that any scenario will occur in precisely the manner in which it is dealt with herein.

Nor is it possible to foresee every possible scenario. Despite the manner in which it's written, scenarios and guidelines serve merely in order to encourage a reader to ponder similar situations in which they may unfortunately find themselves.

Despite any perceptions to the contrary, we readily admit that there are many members of the Police, criminal justice system, professional security officers and others, risking their lives daily for our safety.

We recommend that people should always endeavour to get personal hands-on self-defence training from a responsible and accredited instructor, as well as acquire advice from your attorney. In no part of this book should it be implied that anyone should break the law.

The author and publisher accept no liability for any action or response that any person may make as a result of reading this handbook, nor for any action taken by persons reacting to actions taken by the reader due to reading this book.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The authors are sincerely grateful to:

Mr Russel Sellick for jointly realising the need for the book and acting as a referee, also Deon La Roux for encouraging Richard to start (and keep on) writing.

Our referees:

Professor of Criminal Psychology, UNISA; Coen Marais.

Professor of Criminal Psychology, UNISA; Herman Conradie.

The late Lt.Col. Joe Grant-Grierson.

Ms Madelaine Victor-Zietsman.

Police Superintendant Hein Gerber.

Thanks also to our legal counsel Mr Schalk du Toit of the Wildlife and Environmental Society of SA (WESSA).

Ebook Formatting – RikHall.com

Overall, we have done our utmost in making this handbook accurate and up-to-date. If we've succeeded, the praise goes to all the referees for their outstanding effort, anything that's wrong falls under our plausible deniability clause.

Richard Wesson & Martin Hedington

Johannesburg 2002 – 2014

# PROLOGUE

" _Passengers responsible for their own luggage"_

Sawari apne saman ki khud zimmedar

(Indian saying, meaning you are responsible for your own actions.)

Does anyone, ever, willingly choose to become a victim of criminal violence?

Of course not, but there are some people who, -despite neighbours nearby suffering from various crimes-, somehow seem to successfully avoid all the troubles that their neighbours experience. Is it pure chance, that their neighbours were 'asking for it', or is it that the unaffected people mount fully autonomous machine-guns on their roof. Just kidding.

Obviously, high visibility counter-crime defensive tactics do tend to reduce your risk profile but very few people that live in ordinary suburbs want, need, let alone can afford that kind of kit so we compiled this handbook in order to enable readers to overcome a social conditioning that often renders them too afraid to even think about how to avoid becoming a victim, so they rather just stick their head in the sand (or somewhere less polite) and hope for the best. The plain fact is, crime is not always _something that happens to other people_ , it very well may be _something that can happen to you._

Most counter-crime measures and tactics are really not that difficult, ugly, costly or even time-consuming. This book's core philosophy centres on giving yourself options, options that you maybe wouldn't have thought of for yourself. Its all about lowering your risk profile and also 'hardening' yourself as a potential target. Every person on this planet enjoys one common attribute; instinct. You will never find out what instinctively puts a criminal off of targeting you, so consider learning about what others successfully do, and what criminal psychologists have advised us works the most effectively in dissuading criminals from targeting you, based on their own inherent instinct.

Perhaps you've survived an 'event' already and you'd rather it didn't happen again. Maybe you read about something nasty happening to an acquaintance or neighbour of yours and you'd prefer to lessen the chance if it happening to you. All you know is that you're just an ordinary person going about your daily life in the knowledge that you just **don't** **want to end up as a victim**. Perhaps you don't really know where to start and you're just a casual visitor to this topic merely looking for some simple and quick 'tips, tricks and tweaks'.

So, assisted by some very knowledgeable acquaintances, we set about compiling this handbook to help you to help yourself. It was assembled, written and reviewed here in South Africa by a team of South African professionals including ; A senior Police trainer; Hein Gerber, a Veteran Security professional; Joe Grant Grierson, a VIP safety trainer; Richard Wesson, a veteran community crime-prevention volunteer; Martin Hedington as well as -not one but two- criminal psychology professors; Coen Marais and Herman Conradie lecturing at UNISA.

Our book was originally written for explicit use by people living in the environment and circumstances of South Africa, given the nature of the criminal activity suffered here, namely a homicide rate between 16 and 22 thousand annually (depending on who's figures you believe), readers also living elsewhere are highly recommended to heed at least some of the advice. Given that most assaults on you or directed at your possessions usually cost you at the very least your peace of mind but usually considerably more for various reasons, the few bucks you invested in buying this book will probably be one of the soundest investments in security you'll ever make, but only if you read it thoroughly.

Of course, Martin and I admit that implementing **all of the proposals** enclosed within would render you practically unassailable but then very few people -if any- would take the time or make the effort to adopt everything we've researched. That's fine, pick and choose whatever you feel you find both useful and comfortable with and for now, ignore what you can't use till you feel you need to 'up your ante'. The fact is, most people being either too lazy or too dumb to think of employing any counter-crime measures at all, means that anyone (like you) that employs even just a few measures contained in this book, thereby reduces their chance of criminal attack by a considerable factor.

We also both readily admit that much of the content is available free from various sources but you'd probably spend days or weeks looking around for it, just think of this book a one-stop-shop for a collection of tried and tested useful strategies, all in one handy place on your reader, PC or IPhone. Then when you read or hear that your neighbour just became a victim, pull up our text onto your device and get busy making sure you lessen **your** chance of being targeted next. Who knows, once you find out that foiling a burglary at your place might only cost you $10 for a one-off purchase of a cheap sensor, maybe you'd actually do something about it for a change and thereby save yourself a lot of grief.

Almost everyone everywhere demands that their Government, by way of the police, does as much as possible about protecting them from violent crime but despite any perception to the contrary, it's not the job or function of the police to protect any individual or household, their job is to enforce the Law, and that is not at all the same thing, frankly it's not even in the same ballpark.

One of the most obvious clues that police seem to be losing interest in the public is the recent revelation that of 43 regional police forces in the UK, apparently 37 of them suggest to victims who phone in that they should investigate their own crimes;

Police Ask Victims To 'Investigate Own Crimes' (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdQF8yJI25Q) and: "shocking (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyIkifthCEc)"

Police exist to 'keep the peace', enforce the law by 'serving and protecting' the community as a whole. They are usually only required to protect specific individuals or properties for the purposes of witness protection or because of their political status, none of their normal duties require them to protect individuals within the general public from criminal violence, -unless it's happening in plain sight and right in front of them. Roadblocks, patrols and stop and searches are all well and good but then no confrontational criminal with even half a brain is going to wait until a fine upstanding cop is present either _before_ _or during_ an attack.

Attacks can occur anywhere, but victims are often isolated (i.e. unprotected), either by reason of their environment (i.e. no one's around to help), or socially isolated, i.e. everyone around you may very likely ignore the fact that you're being attacked, (the "rather-not-be-involved" syndrome.) This latter attitude being even more prevalent in an almost entirely defenceless (read: law-abiding sector of) -society such as in the UK, apparently the most violent country in Europe, the parts of Europe outside of war zones that is. (UK & US statistical crime rates (http://www.bjs.gov/content/pub/html/cjusew96/cpp.cfm)).

Unfortunately, many criminal justice systems can't be considered to act as much of an effective deterrent to criminal violence either, since at the time of writing it's estimated that (in South Africa), less than 5% of violent crime investigations result in an actual conviction. Indeed, the application of **the Law is perceived by many to favour the violent criminal over the victim.**

Police are required to execute and enforce the Law, as well as arrest suspects who have either attempted or actually committed crimes. The purpose of the Law is in turn to inhibit anti-social or deviant behaviour, for the law-abiding of course. So where does that leave potential victims? Or more specifically, _your own_ protection.

In reality, -and despite so called victim empowerment rights-, we find that Human Rights per se don't seem to be actively considered within the 'official' aspects of the criminal justice system because, not surprisingly perhaps, the entire system is -ipso facto- designed to deal with criminals. Therefore potential victims (i.e. the rest of us) suffer a distinct disadvantage because we're forced to live permanently on the defensive; legally, strategically and tactically.

When it comes right down to it, i.e. at the time of an actual attack _, initially, the only person that you're forced to rely on is yourself!_ In other words: _'don't expect any help until after the incident is over because you're probably not going to get any; you'll be on your own!'_

All kinds of so-called 'experts' from Government and various apologist pressure groups lecture us that we can do nothing to protect ourselves from violence, and that even if we can we still shouldn't because even using 'defensive force' is considered somehow immoral or just plain 'wrong' in a civilised society.

Daily, we are all being increasingly conditioned to believe that the only form of protection from violence is to permit violent criminals do whatever they want, whenever they want. As a society, we seem to be subject to a conditioning strategy by various authority's and the media into becoming uncomplaining, compliant victims.

A very well known and courageous educator Helen Keller apparently once said; **"** Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure." Just be aware that Helen Keller was deaf, mute and blind, are you?

Apologetics seems to generate three primary varieties of potential victim, these being:

Type one, the Macho: "I don't worry about these things and anyway I can handle any situation". This type of person is not expecting anything bad to happen, nor looking out for trouble, so it'll probably all happen so fast that they won't be able to do a damned thing about it. Types 1's often spending the rest of their lives spreading the Type 3 philosophy following their own pathetic experience.

Type two, the Blinder: "Everything looks fine to me and anyway, nothing bad ever happened so far". This is a very common attitude of people who have little if any understanding of cultures, environments or worldviews other than their own, or who spend most of their time in apparently secure environments. Tourists often fall into this trap.

Type three, the Defeatist: "There's nothing I can do so why bother trying. Besides, it does no good to anger a criminal by making his lifestyle more difficult". There's really not much to say about this attitude except to label them as simply 'prey'.

By accepting conditioning that persuading them to accept their victimhood, people inadvertently become a major contributing factor in the encouragement of violent crime but despite this ubiquitous brainwashing, you can reject this philosophy. Minor changes to your lifestyle and general attitude can permit the re-acquisition of control over your life, your self-respect and your personal safety and security. That's what this book is all about.

# THE LOGIC BEHIND THE PRINCIPLES

This book doesn't teach you how to eradicate bandits as some masked avenger, or how to destroy roving bands of thugs. Nor is it an idiots guide on how to become a 'Rambo' or 'Lara Croft'.

Our book frequently encourages you to develop more awareness and how to employ simple drills that should keep you unharmed and alive. Its main purpose is to make you _think, plan and to help avoid situations which are potentially violent._

This is for _You, The Prospective Victim_ , Joe or Jane Ordinary who's probably never done anything very aggressive in your entire life; no doubt you are the sort of person who enjoys an ordinary living and working environment and has normal hopes and vision for your own future along with your continued wellbeing.

Everyone is of course unique, as are the situations within which any person may find themselves; therefore it is basic principles that are described. We couldn't possibly contain examples of every possible situation that you might encounter.

Our book is based on the most common situations researched in the South African context compiled from no less than seven highly experienced experts in their respective fields, you're simply advised to think about the principles herein and consider applying some of them to your own unique lifestyle, because they were designed around advice from individuals who -one way or another- know criminals very well indeed.

In the final analysis of course it's all up to you. Therefore when considering the protection of yourself and your family, the order of priorities in defending yourself from violent attack should be ' _ADD_ ': [As in _ADDing_ to your life-expectancy]

**A** _VOIDANCE_ , (Part I)

**D** _ISCOURAGEMENT_ , (Part II)

**D** _EFENCE_. (Part III)

_INTERDEPENDENCE_ i.e. 'Community Security' is covered in Part IV.

By far _THE_ most important of these is _AVOIDANCE_ because it's the easiest, cheapest tool and it usually works most of the time.

Unfortunately for some, some concepts that are outline within this handbook are perhaps politically incorrect, at best politically dubious, but then as Confucius said, _"Reality Is Rarely Politically Correct."_ I've occasionally been told that I'm pompous, arrogant and offensive but then it's no fun to criticise an author unless he's at least one of the above, is it. ( _That's because you often are, Richard_. - Martin)

Some concepts herein are cross-referenced (or overlapped) in different sections. This is not only because of their considered importance, but because they are utilised from different perspectives and various situations. This handbook doesn't deal with domestic violence or child abuse. The causes of, and remedies for these forms of violence are considered outside its scope.

Readers are strongly advised that they confirm with their attorney in order that any theories, actions and/ or responses developed from advice in this handbook (or any other source of ideas) are legally acceptable to ensure that any defensive actions taken are consistent with current legislation within your particular territory.

For those whose religion, philosophy or political ideology doesn't allow them to defend themselves from criminal violence, the reader will also discover various non-aggressive pro-active and re-active principles for protecting themselves.

Some of the principles outlined in this handbook may be of use in countries with a different social and legal tradition to South Africa. They may also be a starting point for different environments to SA. Thus, always check with an attorney.

So to get things rolling, let's first cover the premier level in the ' _A.D.D._ ' system of personal protection.

# PART ONE – AVOIDANCE

" _There is nothing more frightening than ignorance in action."_

Johann Von Goethe (1749 - 1832)

# Chapter 1  
PRINCIPLES OF AVOIDANCE

Regarding the ' _A.D.D._ ' concept of protection, _Avoidance_ is probably the most fundamental and effective form of protection. Successfully avoiding trouble means there is obviously no way you're going to get hurt! Avoiding a confrontation is not running away from trouble; it's a _Positive_ decision to avoid being a target for violent attack; it's the thinking person's option. Confrontations can very easily and quickly lead to unexpected and unpleasant results.

The very first principle of A _voidance_ is achieved by making yourself more fully aware of your surroundings and environment. This may sound blatantly obvious, but _if you don't see trouble coming, you're hardly likely to be able to avoid it, now are you_ _?_

Many successful car hijackings occur at intersections with traffic lights. Why? Because the occupants often **also** _visibly switch their mind into neutral_ **!** How often do you see drivers waiting at traffic lights with a cell phone glued to their ear, staring blankly at the lights waiting for them to change, yet ignoring and avoiding eye contact with street traders, beggars and other pedestrians around them? They're a hijacking waiting to happen!

Were people a little more observant of their surroundings, generally speaking they could avoid a hijacking. This needs repeating: when you're _AWARE of your surroundings, you're far more likely to see trouble coming so therefore take avoiding action._ Develop a rubberneck and constantly look around you.

In a vehicle for example, you usually have no less than three mirrors to employ in widening your vision, they literally give you the equivalent of 'eyes in the back of your head', nowhere else does as well but in the street there are often reflective surfaces around to mirror an image behind you. Try it sometime, it really works. If possible, try avoiding dark and overgrown places because _what you can't see, you can't avoid._

Even if you can't take action to avoid a threat, at least you'll award yourself more time to discourage your attacker, or simply enable yourself to prepare a successful defence, or just escape a threat. It was found that the three most common excuses people use to rationalise why they aren't/weren't aware of their surroundings run as follows.

The most popular excuse is, " _Well I've never needed to be paranoid in the past, so I see no reason to start now._ " Hello! Just because you're not paranoid, doesn't mean that no-one's out to get you! Times have changed, stop being arrogant.

Everyone is of course a potential victim of violent crime so if you're not prepared to change your attitude then you're inviting an attack. If so, you may as well ignore this handbook, put your head between your knees and kiss your tush goodbye!

Another popular example of self-deception our research revealed was, " _Me watch out for trouble? I couldn't live my life that way, besides it's far too tiring. Anyway, aren't the police there to protect me. I shouldn't have to live my life as a mindless drone or in perpetual fear._ And of course no one should but as the international Scouts motto suggests, you must however; 'Be Prepared'.

As for the cops, they usually only visit the scene of the crime _after the fact to paint that nice chalk line round your body_ , but only _if_ they have been informed _,_ _if_ they're not already busy and _if_ they have available transport. They're almost certainly not going to be there when the attack happens.

Just to clarify the issue, the police exist predominantly to 'Protect & Serve' the community at large, not individuals. They are reactive, i.e. enforcing the law generally, and participatory, i.e. Preventing crime through facilitation of community participation. They're unable therefore to be truly pro-active no matter how hard they may try (via 'visible policing'), as it's generally considered unconstitutional to arrest someone for a crime they haven't yet committed!

If you're expecting the same as what's played out in a cop movie or on TV, you're in for a rather nasty surprise because TV and film cops are just actors, nothing more. In reality, "It takes only one to make a quarrel. It is useless for the sheep to pass resolutions in favour of vegetarianism while the wolf remains of a different opinion." Dean William Ralph Inge.

The third delusional excuse is, " _I Don't Need To Worry Because I Carry A Gun/ / Knife/ Spray/ Baton/ Zapper Wherever I Go_ " This is another defective attitude because quite a number of serious issues arise from this:

By far the **most** serious issue being that through complacency, you can end up not being on the lookout for danger, so when it actually does 'go down' it may be too late to do anything. _If you're not looking out for trouble, you're unable to react in time._ _You don't avoid trouble just by having a weapon, no matter what weapon it is, because you won't give yourself adequate time to utilise it, fool._

Many thousands of police dockets are created annually that outline investigations into murders, attempted murders, hijackings, rapes, armed robberies, aggravated assaults etc, that involve people with precisely the attitude above. It's exactly people like this whom the apologists and pseudo-intellectual sociologists thankfully quote when they insist that there is no warning of a violent attack, so therefore there's no point in being prepared to defend yourself. The authors think this is utter hogwash.

So you're thinking about buying yourself a weapon. Is it suitable for you, your lifestyle, for most threats? If -for example- it can't keep a potential assailant at a distance then it's probably not suitable. Handguns are of course well designed as defensive weapons, Politics aside, they're probably in fact _the_ most effective means of self-defence which can be carried concealed on your person, rapidly deployed and used very easily, as well as simultaneously keep more than one attacker at a safe distance.

Having 'weaponised' yourself, whatever you chose, are you fully trained and conversant in your weapons use? Are you safe and competent in its use? If not, you may become a liability unto yourself, your family and innocent bystanders as well as possibly of considerable help to your attacker.

Is your weapon readily available (actually on you) or is it at the bottom of your handbag, briefcase or in the glove compartment/ boot of your car? Maybe it's locked up in the safe at home. If it's not immediately available you won't get to it in time. If it's covered with lipstick/ nail varnish/ liquorice or rust, it may not work properly anyway.

A truism well worth heeding is 'The very best weapon for self-defence is the one you have on you, works when you need it to and you are proficient in its use'. Are you also mentally prepared to use it? Are you aware of the effects of employing it? (Noise, recoil, gunsmoke, muzzleflash, blood-splatter etc) If not, it could easily end up in the hands of your assailant and possibly used against you.

If you can't answer 'yes' to all the questions above then you're deceiving yourself into living a lie, that lie being a False Sense Of Security (i.e. A Conditioned Victim).

So don't acquire a means of protection that you either cannot and/or will not use. Ask yourself; Are you prepared to use potentially lethal force to protect yourself? Carefully think through this dilemma, then either attend a training course and practice regularly (a good course encourages awareness, avoidance and other means of protection), or get rid of what may become a liability due to you through not being adequately competent in its use.

Like Helen Keller, many people consider that it's better to have no means of protection than having a weapon, then finding yourself unable and/or unwilling to use it when the need arises. Possessing, then finding you're unable or unwilling to use a weapon can lead to a false sense of self-security, which psychologically discourages awareness.

Conversely, feeling concerned because you have no means of protection results in an increasing psychological need for awareness. Bear in mind that when you're actively aware of your surroundings you'll more likely sense or see trouble coming and you'll have time to think through your options and react accordingly; thus, you'll give yourself more time to escape, defend and/or get help.

If possible, avoid using repetitive routines or routes (i.e. a repeating schedule), because successful 'Bad Guys' (BG's) usually aren't so dumb that they don't or can't easily plan an attack on someone who lives by a predictable weekly timetable or daily schedule.

If your timings and routes are irregular, planning an attack becomes far more difficult; preparing an attack on you become much more difficult and therefore more unlikely. Varying your routines means you're avoiding an increased likelihood of attack. BG's are more likely to turn their attention to someone who has decided to ignore the good sense found in this handbook.

On experiencing a 'bad feeling' (sometimes called a sixth sense, or gut-feel) about a person, place or situation, rather heed it and simply 'don't go there'. Your subconscious has intuitively picked up on a potential threat, trust it.

Did you ever watch a film or TV programme involving secret service people, what's the first thing you see them do when in a new setting or environment, check how to get out and what's around in the 'get-out' option. Always try to formulate an exit (an escape route) for yourself. So if you ever find yourself in a position where you can't or won't leave, try making sure that you have a place where you can retreat to and defend yourself.

Unfortunately this last option won't necessarily work unless you are prepared, equipped and mentally capable of defence but if an attacker can't get to you fully aware of your –hoped for- vulnerability, then you'll possibly avoid an attack anyway. BG's usually being control freaks, they'd rather avoid any potential surprises.

Barriers do act as a means of both avoidance and deterrence but almost _NOTHING_ is impregnable. Even thick walls, steel doors, iron bars and locks only delay a determined attacker, they can however give you time to; 1. Call for help; 2. Raise an alarm, 3. Find a defensive weapon of some description. Tip: All households have many expedient weapons, (XPD's), Google 'Urban Combatives'

Barriers may even discourage an attacker entirely if he is not too determined or you're not too isolated, but help does not always arrive in time. So if your theology, philosophy or ideology doesn't allow you to protect yourself or your loved ones, a well-designed and preferably hidden escape route or hidey-hole may be a better option.

There are two types of cover; cover from fire (i.e. bullets) and cover from view. Naturally, cover from fire is usually also cover from view (excluding bullet-resistant glass), so is therefore the better option. However, cover from view at least keeps you out of view, and if they can't see you, attackers can only guess; a) where you might be, and b) _what weapon you might have_...

When trying to avoid harm or trouble, the ideal situation is to be in cover with the ability to observe all around you, unfortunately this is not always possible so the primary option is either just to be hidden but unable to observe anyone approaching you, or alternatively to be in the open when everyone can see you, but where you can see anyone approaching, thereby giving you sufficient time to decide on a course of action (i.e. escape, defend or submit).

Unfortunately there are occasions -whilst out and about- when it's almost impossible to remain totally aware of your surroundings because you're focussing on what you're actually doing, such as when using an ATM or a public convenience.

When alone, ensure you use an ATM in a safe environment. (Well lit, security nearby, busy area). If you can't find a safe environment, get a friend to watch your back while you're using the machine. That way you're less likely to be interrupted and conned, bag-snatched or robbed.

In the case of public toilets, women are at an advantage as they have cubicles. For men, use a cubicle if you can; if not, mimic women and go in pairs. This ensures you're less likely to be subject to an attack while you're concentrating on the job at hand or making cosmetic adjustments. If there are mirrors around, always use them to watch your back.

Avoidance in summary:

Become more aware of your surroundings.

Be alert for trouble and the potential for trouble in order to avoid it.

Don't acquire a means of defence if you are not willing to be trained and practice with it, or if you feel you may end up unwilling to use it; _Get Rid Of It_! Because it's better to be concerned about being unarmed -so therefore more aware of your surroundings-, than maintaining a false sense of security because you have a weapon which you either won't or can't use.

Ensure that you award yourself sufficient time to react.

If your gut feeling says " _NO",_ then don't.

There's no such thing as impregnable. Physical security measures only buy you time.

Preferably, try to formulate at least one escape route.

Seek cover from attack and cover from view. The time factor dictates whether to 1. Use complete and secure defensive cover or 2. Limited cover with good observation, or 3, just escape the threat altogether.

Should you be engaged with doing something that distracts you from being aware of your surroundings, either get someone to watch your back, or better still, find somewhere more safe to do your thing.

Remember this if you want to survive: _Living with your 'MIND IN NEUTRAL' may get you in serious trouble!_ You may be attacked anywhere, so increased awareness of your surroundings awards you more time to evaluate important options and reactions.

_By far_ **t** _he Very Best form of Personal Protection is Avoiding Being Attacked Altogether._

# Chapter 2  
HOUSEHOLD PROTECTION - PHYSICAL ASPECTS

Unless you're a 'traveller', your home is a fixed point, meaning any potential attacker knows that you're going to return there eventually. All he has to do is observe you for a few days and nights to learn your routine and timetable. You almost certainly won't be aware that you're being watched.

It's entirely likely that an attacker can collect a lot of useful information about you from your neighbours, your household domestics or other workers (permanent or casual) on or near your property through normal social interaction. He may not even need to threaten them; he'll learn all that he needs to learn through gossip.

It's much more likely that you'll avoid a lot of problems by ensuring that no one gets in who shouldn't. There are a few aspects to this:

Control over who has entry to the property and the house, it's very important to ensure that people cannot gain entry easily and quietly if you're either not there, or at night when you're in a part of the house far away from the front door, (front doors have proven to be the highest likely point of entry for criminals) but most especially when you're tucked up snugly asleep. Read this on the 'anatomy of a Burglary (http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/artsandliving/homeandgarden/features/2007/burglary-070507/graphic.html).'

Statistically, the periods of greatest risk or personal attack are when you're arriving at or leaving your home, (Or visiting and leaving someone else's).

_This period of greatest risk of home invasion lasts from the moment you start to unlock your door to enter, to the time that you're well away from your property or boundary, then from the moment that you're near the property until you've entered the house and checked that it's safe and secured._ Therefore, you need to consider a few important aspects of physical avoidance/ deterrence related to your house:

Erecting sufficient barriers and signage deters and inhibits many unwelcome guests whether you're in the house or not. Fit adequate sensors to warn an intruder that they will be detected when they trip your sensors. Always have sign(s) outside indicating you have a system of some kind, even if you don't. Criminal research indicates that signage also erected publicly within in a suburb indicating a 'community attitude' to crime-prevention often proves to be a very successful deterrent to unwanted visitors.

Enable yourself to observe the overall property and your surroundings while you are entering and leaving. Furthermore, be able to observe the property and your surroundings while you are carrying out your normal day-to-day activities. After all, you don't want attackers waiting unnoticed in the bushes or sneaking up and surprising you while you're unlocking gates, or waiting for the electric gate to open, opening the garage, or whilst exiting your car. (Crime analysis figures dictate these to be ideal circumstances for hijackings and house robberies.)

On arriving home and finding that the house is open when it shouldn't be, don't be foolish. _You're Open To Rape / Torture/ Physical Attack By An Unknown number Of Threats If You Rush In To Confront Your Trespassers._ Unless you're bulletproof, very well trained and/ or there are sufficient numbers of you to affect an arrest, rather leave and go get help. Get off the property and wait until the situation is resolved by people who are trained to diffuse this type of problem, or at least until any trespassers have left.

Admittedly, you may look a little silly if it turns out to be a false alarm, but you're going to feel much more depressed if you contract an STD due to being physically assaulted when it could all have been easily avoided! Remember that word, _AVOIDANCE_?

Walls prevent people from looking in so passing criminals can't see if there is anything attractive worth stealing, they award you essential privacy. However, the presence of walls suggests to some criminals that they may actually be hiding something attractive, so sometimes act as a magnet. Another disadvantage of walls is that once someone's breached one, no one else outside is aware you have a trespasser. Catch 22. There's nothing to stop you erecting wire on top of the wall, making access more difficult, even if spoiling your aesthetics a little.

It is a good idea to have some form of wire fencing surrounding the house, especially in a rural or remote area. However, try ensuring that it is very difficult (if not impossible) to climb and that there is no restriction to seeing through it, like those pretty climbing plants that some insist on planting. Potential attackers can easily see through vegetation, while you won't even know that you're being observed.

Do _NOT_ have bushes or other hiding places near your entrances, especially if you have to get out of your vehicle to open the gate. You have to stop and wait or get out at these points. Vegetation may be pretty but it could get you robbed or harmed.

Ideally, use electronically operated gates and garage doors since this allows you to open and close them from a distance, as well as without stopping; thereby reducing the possibility of an attack. However, _You Must Keep the Gate under Observation Whilst It's Open_. Criminals are known to sneak in through the gate while you're using it. If you don't watch the gate, you won't see them sneak in to attack you as you exit your car!

If you're ever concerned for some reason that there may be criminals present, leave and return later, preferably with someone who can protect you. If you live in the suburbs, drive around the block; they'll have gone, or they'll soon go (innocent or not), especially if you're seen watching them whilst talking to someone on your cell phone.

Make sure that _ALL_ doors and windows cannot be readily broken through. There's no point in having a security door if you have windows without security bars. Large panes of glass may be pretty, but panes of glass can be easily broken. Ensure that _ROBUST_ burglar bars protect the whole window even though they may be ugly, also consider fitting break-glass trembler alarms; they're cheap, noisy and battery-powered.

All your entrances should ideally have security doors. There will come a time when you want to open a generally unused external door or window. That is the prime time when you can expect unwanted guests.

Remember, if you live in an isolated environment, no one may hear the sound of breaking glass and your subsequent screams except your attacker and yourself. Even if it not so isolated, will your neighbours hear, or even care? How long does it take for your security company to respond; assuming you have one? [The real response time, not the one advertised.] The police almost certainly won't arrive in time; they're usually overstretched, widely dispersed, and many police stations don't have sufficient working vehicles!

_Although there's no such thing as 'impenetrable', rendering your property and immediate vicinity_ _MORE DIFFICULT TO GET INTO_ _does_ _DELAY AND DISCOURAGE_ _most Criminals_ _._ Towards this end, the sector of the house where you and the family retire to should be particularly secure. The windows should have better burglar bars (perhaps inside and outside the window) and if possible, you should have some sort of security door in the passageway between the sleeping area and the remainder of the house. Then if your house is broken into, this increases your probability of survival as well as give you time to call for help.

If you hear someone break in; _do Not Go Around Investigating_. If you're lucky the burglars are only after the TV and video recorder and will leave the people in the house alone. (More about this in Part III.)

There is no point in owning 'Fort Knox' if you don't keep it locked! Also, you could easily get involved in a violent confrontation which you are highly likely to lose. Even if you survive an attack you could easily find yourself accused of attempted murder, or murder should your assailant die. If your burglar breaks through an internal security barrier however, it will be more readily acknowledged by a court that he or they were intent on doing you and your family personal harm.

There may be times when uninvited people enter through a perimeter fence without actually entering the house but even if they don't get into the house they can see through the windows. Attractive or valuable items left in plain view could result in a group of unsavoury and unexpected visitors forcing their way into the house at a later time or date. Be prepared.

Remember that at night, it is easy to see into a house with nets or no curtains and the lights on, while those inside can see nothing that is happening outside. This means that you can be observed without being aware of it. Making sure that you have good quality net curtains. Just make sure that you remember to close all curtains before dusk.

This aspect relating to light also applies when you're getting into or out of your car at night. If you have to have a lit up area to get in and out of your car, make sure that this lit area is large enough to give you sufficient distance from anyone hiding in the shadows. Ensure that you have bright lamps shining into shadows and other distant areas; this helps to disrupt the vision of any unwanted watchers.

Bearing this in mind, typically you need to ideally have 'visual control' of at least a 30 to 40 metre boundary immediately around you. (100 to 130 ft.) This then counteracts the well known 'Tueller 21 ft. rule'. (Tip: Google it)

If you intend using 'active' wiring such as electrified or razor wiring, you _MUST_ ensure that such wiring is very clearly advertised. i.e. _By Law you have to ensure that it's totally obvious to any innocent passers-by that they should stay well clear of the inherent danger. This way, anyone coming into contact with your security measures was either 'intellectually impaired' (AKA stupid) or was deliberately attempting to break into the property, -in the full knowledge of the risks they entailed._

Warnings need to be placed on both sides of your active fencing _._ After all, you don't want your intruder (or anybody else on the property) to be able sue you because they weren't adequately warned; nor do you want him to use the lack of warning as an excuse that he wandered into the wire by mistake.

If you plan on using a thorn hedge, make sure that it's indigenous and can withstand local conditions; also that it's resistant to fire! A nice thorn hedge such as made up of the correct species can be all but impenetrable although the waiting (growing) period puts many off. Google 'grow-burglar-barrier'. Access openings or gaps should be carefully considered for mounting passive or active Infra Red (IR) beams and auto-lights otherwise they offer a weakness.

Household domestic workers and occasional contractors visiting or working at your property will -and are usually entitled to- visitors, invariably you probably won't know who they are, so any 'staff' accommodation should preferably have its own barriers separate from yours. This offers two important benefits:

People visiting, i.e. people you don't necessarily know, aren't able to also get access to your house, and; In the event of an attack on _your_ residence, your staff are this way less likely to be attacked since they are in a separate area so can therefore raise an alarm for you if need be. (Staff also need to be able to decide who has access to their own accommodation).

# Chapter 3  
HOUSEHOLD PROTECTION - ATTITUDINAL ASPECTS

So you're at home in your 'fortress' and relatively safe, right? Not necessarily. Although it's all very well having good security measures, if security gates aren't actually locked, uninvited guests may still enter! You need to check that all is secure and well. Paranoia aside, you do need to ensure that all members of the household lock up after themselves and that security gates are locked when their need for being open is completed.

With regard to children, one should never delegate any security protocol whatsoever to them as they usually have -to them at least- many other 'higher' priorities. Also, having to stress the importance of security usually involves the reasons why, which in turn may stress the child.

As such it is therefore highly recommended that all security checking is performed by a responsible adult ensuring that everything has been visually inspected, tested, and hopefully found to be secure. That way, any blame for an oversight is ultimately down to one person, yourself.

A favourite time to gain access to a secure household is first thing in the morning. The house may be ritually locked up at night but the first person up in the morning is often still half asleep. _Opening a door to go outside/ let the cat out or the dog in without first checking who may be outside may prove disastrous._

Make sure that you've had your first cup of Joe with all the security gates tightly locked. Open the curtains and maybe windows to let light and air in, but keep Fort Knox secure until you are awake enough to notice and be aware of your surroundings, especially what's just outside the kitchen door.

Assuming you have a security gate, keep it locked, then if hearing a call for help; you can first check out what is happening (i.e. is it a trap?) before any attacker has access to the house. If such an event happens at night, first switch _OFF_ the indoor light and switch _ON_ the outside light before you open the door.

This action simultaneously puts you at a slight advantage as well as anyone outside at a disadvantage so _you're_ less likely to be caught off guard and surprised. Even if you're shot at or slashed through the security door -and perhaps wounded-, you're far less visible when you retreat and can more easily summon help, also possibly retrieve a weapon.

Interestingly, a popular time for attack is when householders are returning from worship. There seems to be a prevailing attitude that attacks can't happen to people who have communed with their Deity but both history and crime statistics indicate that ruthless persons at one time or another, on or off sacred ground, have attacked all types of religious buildings and their congregations and from all denominations.

Whenever leaving or arriving, check that you cannot be attacked between the parking area and the house. If you are with someone else, get that person to stand guard while you are getting the car out of the garage or when you are putting it away. Pre-adolescent male children are particularly keen at doing this. Have a getaway plan planned if anything suspicious is suspected.

Generally, keep your wits about you when you are wandering outside or in the garden. Don't ignore something if it is out of place, or otherwise unusual, even a simple gut feeling could be an indicator of trouble, so check it out.

Surrounding a house with river gravel can help to keep you aware of any movement adjacent to the house if you have good hearing. Even if you don't have good hearing, should you own a dog, it will.

Now we must consider the controversial topic of security and household employees or other employees who live on, -or have access to- the property. Also there's the problem of tradesmen and your children's friends and guests.

Domestic staff and other household personnel spend much of the time in the house. They often have keys to and within the house. They know your routine so they're potentially a superb source of information for any criminal.

Do you have a domestic worker actually living with you, in a connected residence, or entirely off your premises? All three scenarios have varying considerations. If they live in the community or in a communal staff area, they may have a key to your house; if they live with you or in a connected residence, they may have visitors who you may not meet and almost certainly don't know.

Unknown visitors offer various potential threats. They may be undesirables that might threaten 'your' domestic, spying out your property and waiting for the right opportunity. If your worker lives within the community, they may be coerced or tricked into lending criminals your door or gate keys. Has any staff member ever told you that s/he has lost or mislaid his/her keys? This may be an indicator that they are being threatened and need protection. If so, take pre-emptive steps by carefully discussing the matter.

These days, technology really is on your side, especially with mass-production methods bringing prices way down. It's now possible to get electronic/remote door openers which can be programmed to open the door only for recognised people, known as biometrics. However _,_ _there is still a danger that a BG (or BG's) may gain entry by using authorised persons credentials and then patiently wait for yours or your kid's arrival. Yes, it's really happened._

Again, technology can help. With an intelligent alarm system, staff must be out of the house before a certain time otherwise the detectors are switched on and either trip an alarm or trigger an auto-dialler. wiki/Auto_dialer for more info) Using an auto-dialler means that if someone is waiting for your arrival, after a pre-set time the system detects a presence and trips an action.

At the top (i.e. more expensive)-end, one can select from internal dome IP camera's for inside surveillance, just connect via your smart-phone to see what might be lurking in your lounge, up to total 'smart-home' <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Domotic> systems like Revolv; <http://revolv.com/> Alyt (<http://www.alyt.com/>) or Sentri (<http://sentri.me/>) and the new, rather more versatile Withings 'Home' http://withings-home.html and the RICO <http://myrico.com/> means that even when you're out or you live in areas not covered by security companies or an effective policing strategy, there are still ways of self-generating a response from somebody, even if it's solely you.

Regarding CCTV, having been around since the Germans first invented it and used it to monitor their V2 rockets in 1942, its advanced considerably since then and of course like everything else been knocked off by everyone else. Most people believe that the purpose for CCTVs, is to record the thieves who break in while you're not there, or alternatively to check that you're not stealing stuff from your local supermarket. However, as a tool to stop you from becoming a Victim, not only are they extremely effective, very simple to set up and use, but thanks to mass production, also very economical.

Oriental mass-manufacturers are producing kits for the DIY market that include complete CCTV systems (from 1 to 4 cams, with motion sensors, wiring, power adapters and a monitor) sometimes with a recording facility, (DVR (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oroAJn1YNIM)). Some cameras have image intensification, or 'low light' facility and more expensive offerings even come with Infra-Red (IR) illumination so they can 'see' in zero light too.

You may need some retaining clips for the wiring and a hammer and screwdriver to screw the mounts in place but these kits are pretty much complete. They can cost anywhere between $ 100 and $300 depending on where you source them. Unfortunately some 'grey market' items are sold without guarantees, however they usually function adequately, and are designed for both indoor outdoor usage.

Assuming the cameras are properly sited, with the cams (with motion sensors) are covering likely approaches to the house; and each other, anyone attempting to break-in should be detected and recorded. The monitor should be installed in your bedroom. If a sensor is tripped and the camera activates, you simply switch on the monitor whilst still in bed and observe in real time what's going on. Alternatively, the system can also be wired to your TV so it interrupts your normal viewing, alerting you to an intrusion.

Often the cause is an animal or bird but -if you've retired to bed - at least you don't have to get up and you can go back to sleep without worrying. However, if unwanted guests have arrived, you are aware of them in good time and can make suitable arrangements like raising an alarm. Always be sure to erect signs that CCTV is installed as that alone often deters intruders. Prevention being better than cure.

Even going low tech, a cheap, (around $1 or $2) battery-powered, autonomous 'door open' magnetic Reed Switch sensor with alarm can be innocuously placed inside a window ledge (both parts balanced atop each other and not actually fixed or stuck to anything). When the two parts are disturbed, (and separated) the alarm emits a loud screech, alerting you of an entry and often deterring it.

Also, those automated switches that turn your lights on and off while you're away on holiday can also be used to switch on a small lamp -placed by a window in a front-facing room- a few times in the small hours (between 1 and 4 AM). It won't disturb you but may put off anyone watching or passing the house with an intent to enter.

Whenever you're not sure of what's happening around the property, at night, switch on an exterior light, in the daytime use (small) binoculars, discreetly of course or you might be suspected of being a peeping tom. If it's within your budget, also use a small image intensifier at night. Night Vision Aids (NVA's) vary in complexity, effectiveness and price, however, even the cheapest can see sufficiently enough for domestic use.

Actually the quality of redundant military equipment (from army surplus stores) as well as other, 'El cheapo' Chinese knock-off Security kits can be much better than most think, plus, modern image intensifier technology cost has reduced significantly quite recently with a recent discovery that Silicon Fresnel lenses will perhaps soon replace simple Geranium lenses in small cameras, Silicon being the second most common element on earth, after oxygen.

Alternatively, cheap, 'simulation infrared' lamps (such as red LED's) on an external wall have often proven quite effective in deterring many would-be trespassers. One more thing on home camera's, if you have a decent budget, go check out the latest technology for remote home surveillance systems by reviewing some clever, cell or I-phone-linked home-cams like Canary.is (http://canary.is/), Dropcam.com and Butterfleye (http://preorder.getbutterfleye.com/)

In summary, you should always remain 'passively alert' even at home. Paranoia aside, rather accept that bad things can –and easily do- happen there. This may sound cold but the plain truth is, you just don't want them happening to you. Burglaries may occur in your area but rather read in your local media that they happened to someone else, then count your blessings.

Regularly try to keep an eye out online for popular and upcoming Home protection and defense technology and new products via corporate 'blogs' like Simplisafe (http://simplisafe.com/blog). These people are not one of the fastest growing companies in Fortune 500 for nothing. Then there's  safesoundfamily (http://safesoundfamily.com/blog/8-burglar-deterrents-to-consider-and-5-to-avoid/) probably one of the most helpful and comprehensive sites we've come across for helpful do's and don'ts.

Googling 'Personal Security Blogs' will reveal amongst other things a very informative site called 50 best safety and security blogs, numbers 11 to 19 being specifically home security, well worth a browse.

Be assured that the internet is not just for the law-abiding, just go visit robber magazine.com' if you don't believe me. As with anything in life, if its been done, someone, somewhere has written about doing it. The link above goes straight to a 'how to' on burglary, they also have intructionals on doing bank robberies and hijacking. My advice? **Know your enemy**.

# Chapter 4  
TRAVEL AND MOVEMENT

Try to vary your daily routines, - i.e. personal tasks, routes-, to as random a pattern as practically possible. This makes planning more difficult for criminals, therefore making a sudden violent attack upon your person less likely.

Unfortunately, randomness does not completely remove the possibility of planned attack while you are on the move; nor does it reduce the possibility of a criminal attack as you are returning or leaving home, or another known static location. Furthermore, randomness does not reduce the possibility of an opportunistic attack, e.g. a hi-jacking at a road junction.

"OK," you may say; "If I'm still open to an unplanned attack, why bother with all the standard precautions?"

Firstly, avoiding the probability of a particular type of attack reduces the overall probability of any attack, because someone planning to attack you usually observes you for a while beforehand, therefore any indication of preparedness on your part renders you less likely to be attacked overall.

Secondly, taking routine precautions keeps your mind alert to the possibility of trouble. _So if you're visibly on the lookout for trouble, it's much more likely that trouble rather avoids you and seeks satisfaction elsewhere_ _._

Remember the primary principal of self-preservation; that if you see trouble coming, you can avoid it? Well, most modern cars are designed to give a nice warm, safe-and-snug feeling but this isn't much good in a violent society since this feeling inhibits awareness, so fight against that 'feelgood' attitude.

After your driveway, one of the most likely places to be attacked whilst driving is at junctions. You're static, you're watching out for traffic while waiting for the lights to change and you don't have time for, -nor do you want anything from- street vendors. You're _a Hijack Waiting to Happen_.

When stopping at a road junction with other cars ahead of you, try to leave sufficient room in front so that the car ahead of you _can't box you in_. Put the car in 1st with your foot on the clutch and your hand on the parking brake. There are countless examples of people who have been attacked or wounded while stopped at junctions, yet despite being wounded have still been able to escape because all they had to do was floor the accelerator.) This technique gives you two benefits:

Firstly, a decent space (1 to 2 car-lengths) in front of you means you can still pass the car in front even if it's actually part of a hijacking attempt, (AKA 'bump-'n-rob') then secondly, if you're concerned that being static means you're inviting an attack, simply manoeuvre around and calmly drive off, smiling nicely and nodding assuredly.

Given a worst case scenario you might try 'nudging' the car ahead. Although this may affect your cars resale value, it instantly renders your hijackers really nervous as they have to take into account the presence of the occupants of the car that you've bumped, making the occupants also involved, therefore offering potential witnesses, even if not willing assistants.

It's generally considered better to take a slightly longer but safer route than to use a route fraught with potential dangers just because it may appear shorter and/ or more convenient.

As mentioned already, one of the most effective defensive mechanisms that you possess is your neck. By turning your head and looking around, not only will you see trouble coming, but troublemakers are usually less likely to attack people who appear more aware, because then their target appears more prepared for an attack, making it risky, no criminal likes surprises, as they're usually bad ones (like capture, injury or arrest).

At traffic lights and junctions, always observe street vendors squarely in the eye, politely answer their questions whilst looking around. If you're visibly looking out for trouble, you might be a serious threat for any attacker so you are more likely to be left alone. Firstly, hijackers prefer to surprise drivers who are blissfully unaware of their surroundings and secondly, it was discovered that it's quite common for hijackers to sometimes actually work with street vendors.

As a rule, if you are at a junction or traffic light and one or more suspicious people start to come towards you, or are starting to surround the vehicle, do _something!_ Often, doing anything is better than doing nothing. It is better to pay a traffic fine than be hijacked. It's also much cheaper. Plus, psychologically you have not become a victim with the entire trauma story, you have taken control of the situation. Worst case scenario is that that you have to deal with a traffic ticket; not a violent attack, besides, many traffic officers can be quite sympathetic.

Once you do find yourself in a position where you can do nothing; obey your hijackers, inform them of your every action. Tell them that you're undoing your seat belt, move slowly and steadily. If you have medication in your bag, let them know. If you have a child in the back, let them know _. Don't panic and scream or it could easily get you injured or worse, so stay calm_.

Your best chance of survival in such a situation is in staying calm, keeping your wits about you and telling your hijackers everything you're doing, e.g. "I'm undoing my seatbelt," "I'm getting out of the car.", "My baby is in the back. I'm going to open the back door to get her out." Be prepared for the jackers to throw the baby at you, it's happened.

Remember, hijackers, purely by the nature of their career are usually very nervous and hyped up. Career hijackers have seen it all, most remembered events being of course people pulling weapons on them. If they don't think that things are going the way they'd hoped or that they're no longer in complete control, they may panic, react badly and behave in an unexpectedly vicious fashion.

If you're going to fight, firstly visualise yourself winning, and how. Secondly, don't stop fighting until you've won. Never start to fight back then give up as that'll only make your attackers really angry! Picture your worst nightmare in visualising what they'll do to you because they'll probably do worse than that if you first try to fight back then give in.

If you're aware of trouble unavoidably coming toward you, you will have time to assess the situation once your adrenalin kicks in, (known by trainers as SNS; Sympathetic Nervous Syndrome also as 'fight-or-flight response), because everything moves in slow motion for you anyway. Practice in your mind various defensive scenarios. If you don't know any, acquire some.

In respect of hijacking at traffic lights, it is possible to lessen your chances of being jacked by reducing the probability of stopping at all at a traffic light. We found that most people don't like this plan because it requires method, (an advanced driving method) but if you see that the lights ahead are red, ease off on the accelerator, if you're lucky, the lights will have turned green by the time you reach them so this means no stop at all.

Less luck means you'll have at least reduced your time stopped at the junction, therefore lessened the probability of attack. You'll also use less fuel. There's no Law stopping you from halting one or two car lengths from the lights and waiting for them to turn green; most jackers don't plan for that.

Another most-favoured place for a hijacking is near your gate early in the morning going to, or returning from work. Too many people stop right at their gate to exit the car to unlock them, or if they have a remote controller, only consider looking for the remote once the car has stopped. A very bad plan, as jackers usually wait precisely for your attention to wander.

Jackers have only to stop their car behind you, and then once you're blocked in you can do nothing. You haven't seen them coming because you're looking for your keys or remote. Then not only have they got your car and cell phone but they've also got the house and car keys -plus you- to keep them thoroughly entertained!

Under such circumstances, you should have your keys ready, and you should stop the car on the other side of the street. This will ensure that it's far more difficult to get boxed in; you can always move off and return later. If they do take the car, at least you're not in it.

It's also a good idea to programme your cell phone with the free SMS code for "call-backs" (look it up for your area) this sends a "call me" message, for free. This only works if your recipient knows your number, who you are and why you're calling. Tip: Google <cell phone emergency apps>, apparently there are over 50 available.

Would you rather have your car hi-jacked with you in the car or out of it?

If you're out of the car you can always run away. However, just remember to _Take the Kids with You._ You don't want the hijackers taking the car and then realising that they've inherited unwanted passengers, then tossing your kid(s) out as they speed away, or worse, dropping them near their own destination, do you?

Another rather popular place for trouble is at filling stations. Again you're at a standstill, sitting in your car either daydreaming or planning your day ahead, blithefully ignoring everything and everyone; a hi-jacking for the asking.

Exiting the car even briefly means you can see and assess what is going on around you. If things look bad, you'll know that it's time to leave, unlike the unprepared, who sometimes receive an unpleasant surprise, at the very least, from a non-confrontational 'slider (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjkghjJ55BU)'.

**Tip** : Filling stations with CCTV means you at least have the perps on camera.

Avoid narrow routes/ roads, or anything (except a police roadblock) that causes you to slow down. Guess what? They're ideal for ambushes. Watch out for sites where it's possible to suddenly pull a vehicle into the road to block you. You have a reverse gear, use it.

If you don't recognise the vehicle blocking the road, either reverse then U-turn and get to safety or, if there is no alternative, drive through the potential ambush. Driving through an ambush has its hazards; bad guys are ready to shoot at you (but probably won't, as it may attract unwelcome attention). If someone -other than a uniformed person- jumps out into the middle of the road; keep going; they'll move!

Many people have been stopped on highways. Attackers overtake then slow down. They get out of the car and the driver of the target vehicle does nothing. If a vehicle passes you and then slows to a stop and the occupant(s) look suspicious, overtake the suspicious vehicle. If you can't overtake, then slowly reverse (with your hazards on) in the service lane to a comfortable distance. Don't stop near them.

Essentially, if you appear too difficult to hijack, jackers will seek someone else who isn't. One deterrence tip often used successfully is to lean well over to your left (as if drawing a weapon from the hip), people familiar with weapons (both law-abiding and otherwise) are very well aware of this movement so should react accordingly.

In the event of being completely surprised by hijackers and losing any control whatsoever, the following guideline –From 'Security in Practice'- is designed from many peoples experiences to minimise the chance of your suffering injury or worse.

Your life and those with you must be your priority.

**Resisting the hijackers** may cause jackers to become violent or even deadly. Remember: possessions can be replaced, a life cannot.

**Hijackers are usually just as scared** and nervous as you are. They may even be under the influence of drugs or alcohol which may make their actions even more unpredictable.

**Resist the urge to panic** and doing anything that the hijackers may not be expecting. Do not scream or make sudden movements, such as motioning with your hands.

Avoid eye contact with the hijackers.

**Keep your hands where the hijackers can see them** , ideally at chest level. This will assure them that you are not reaching for a weapon.

**Never raise your hands above your head** as they may think you are attracting the attention of other people.

**If you're ordered out of the car,** Wait for them to open the door or, if they order you to, do it slowly with one hand, keeping the other where they can see it, Also undo your seat belt with one hand, preferably the hand furthest from the clip by extending your arm over your body (if it is on your left, use your right hand).

**Slowly move away from the car** so that you cannot be perceived as a threat to them.

**Listen carefully and make sure** you understand everything the hijackers are saying and follow their orders.

Quietly but clearly assure the hijackers that they can take the car.

Do not reach for or motion towards items they may demand such as wallets, briefcases and cell phones. Rather tell them where they are and wait for them to get them themselves or they may tell you to hand them over.

**Be honest with hijackers.** For example, if you have a firearm on you _and they ask_ , tell them you have. Finding out or suspecting you have lied to them will anger them and often leads to them becoming violent. Tell them honestly how to deactivate any alarms or immobilisers or do it yourself as ordered.

**Concentrate on the possibility of later identifying the hijackers**. Make mental notes of how many there are, what they are wearing, their age, and any facial or other physical characteristics. However, do not stare at the hijackers; try not to be obvious. To them this means that you will later be able to identify them and be evidence against them and they could become violent or be less hesitant to leave soon.

**Hijackers may not notice a sleeping baby in the back seat**. If this is the case, tell them and point out that the child is not a threat and will make things far more difficult for them. Never move to release the child without them saying you may. Do the same if a pet is in the car but do not push the point to where your life may be threatened at the expense of an animal.

**If ordered to lie down, do so** and remain there with your head down, do so and remain there with your head down. Do not watch them. **Stay still until** you are sure they have left and only then go for help.

**Hijackers may drive off with you** or you may be ordered to drive. If you are driving, do so responsibly and do not do anything out of the ordinary. Always remain quiet unless you need to reply to a question or clarify an order. Remember to be honest with them.

Once you are released, make sure that you are out of harm's reach before moving to get help.

To continue. In relation to avoiding unplanned stops, try keeping your vehicle well maintained, then it's far less likely to break down. Breakdowns render you a static target for assault and robbery. If your car doesn't break down, you're likely to avoid being robbed or otherwise attacked whilst static.

Unfortunately there is little that you can do about punctures. Although expensive, there are tyres that are self-sealing. If you're not using self-sealing tyres, supplement your spare tyre and jack with at least two emergency tyre sealant kits, they're quite cheap and they radically reduce your time stopped. Unless the tyre or rim is very badly damaged, the kit will re-inflate the tyre sufficiently that you can drive (slowly) to a place of safety where you can replace or just change your tyre, then subsequently have the puncture properly repaired.

One excellent way to find ourselves in deep trouble is by overreacting to an aggressive driver. A popular reaction is to hoot, flash your lights and or give someone the finger. Well done! You've just invited an attack from a potential psychopath (or cop) who may otherwise have ignored you. Avoiding trouble means easing off on the accelerator when a moron passes. Let the moron be aggressive with someone else, don't take it personally. They have a problem, don't make it yours.

If you regularly carry valuables or cash, many more people than you think _Will Likely Target You._ You're a robbery waiting to happen. Under such conditions, awareness, and avoidance are serious issues. However, you are advised to consider aspects of discouragement and possible defence if your philosophy allows for it. If your philosophy doesn't allow for it, be a hypocrite (sic) and get someone else to move the valuables.

# Chapter 5  
PSYCHOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF AVOIDANCE

These measures usually only work if you're able to remain aware, keep calm and retain your wits about you.

Most untrained people usually panic under many of the previously discussed situations. This is simply because they firstly just don't know what to do but also the either don't or won't think _any_ bad situation through. Usually, people choose not to even consider that these things might happen to them because they're too horrible to think about. These kind of people fall into the category of denialists, just another aspect of being a Conditioned Victim. (Hopefully, someone you no longer are.)

One has to accept that however remote the possibility, your worst nightmare _Really Can Happen to you._ Perusing your local media occasionally will assure you that it already has happened to someone living nearby.

One of the main purposes of this handbook is to open your mind to just such possibilities and to make you realise that bad things do occasionally happen to good people, people like you. This handbook guides you towards thinking of ways out of such unpleasantness.

If you haven't had any relevant training, or if you're unable to attend a suitable course, visualise these situations and go through what you would do. Think, "What if?" If you visualise these situations with imagination, you'll initially find fault with your imagined responses but that's OK, you've only just started your non-victim learning curve...

By thinking through and sometimes acting out imagined incidents and responses until you develop reasonable scenarios, you will develop workable responses to some 'what-if' scenarios and you are now less likely to panic. You've thought about the unthinkable. Now, you're going to be more aware of your surroundings aren't you? Because now, you not only understand the need to be aware, you're also aware of the benefits of being so. Now you're able to take avoiding action.

Congratulations, just by thinking about being attacked and considering your responses, you're an order of magnitude more capable at protecting yourself than the average person in your situation.

Next up, considering the discouragement of violence, and defending yourself from illegal violence like confrontational crime. There are lots more suggestions to come, however, you're advised to re-read Part I again thoroughly before you go onto Part II, Discouragement.

Accept that _AVOIDING Criminal violence is a Positive Action. Awareness leads to Avoidance. Avoidance means No Immediate Violence, Injury, or Associated Legal Problems even if you Successfully, (and Legally) Defend Yourself._

This is why _AVOIDANCE_ is always considered the first and most effective choice for personal protection, because as we all know: Prevention is always better than cure.

# PART TWO - DISCOURAGEMENT

" _Supreme excellence consists in breaking the enemy's resistance_

without actually fighting."

Sun Tzu (The Art of War: circa 520 BCE)

# Chapter 6  
ASPECTS OF CONFRONTATIONAL CRIMES

Not surprisingly, confrontational criminals don't possess the same psychological outlook as normal or non-violent people. Many criminals end up making a conscious choice to use violence as a primary tactic in order to achieve their ends, usually due to peer pressure. They are therefore defined as being Psychopaths and/ or Sociopaths. (Google this term to understand more clearly). Most civilised and law-abiding people only end up resorting to violence -or threat of it- when forced to, usually through an avoidable circumstance.

Of course any one of us could find ourselves in the situation where we perceive that the only way to put food on the table is to resort to crime. However, it was found that the great majority of criminals usually resort to non-confrontational crime like theft or fraud. That is, crime where they wouldn't actually confront their victim; i.e. they choose not to use violence (or the threat of violence) as a primary means to achieve their goal.

Violent criminals however tend to see their victims in the same way that a pack of hyenas or wolves would, as prey. (Non-violent criminals tended mostly having at least some empathy with their victims.) Many violent criminals see those who are weaker, or less vicious than themselves as simply barriers (i.e. merely objects) to be overcome or abused purely for their own gain or pleasure. Reluctance by others to use violence is often viewed by BG's merely as a weakness.

Indeed, many confrontational criminals actually derive pleasure or thrills from the feeling of power that they experience via inflicting violence, pain, fear and suffering on others, in some cases this pleasure becoming addictive, even sexually gratifying.

When a criminal holds a knife to your neck, and says, "Give me your money," and you answer "No!" Do you honestly think he's going to say, "Oops, sorry," and then run away? Or, are you more likely to end up in the E R, or morgue. You already know the answer. If you're lucky, medical staff will leave you with really nice, small and neat stitches.

Apologists often insist that we must be reasonable towards these poor violent, disturbed criminals because it's not their fault, often preaching that it's the fault of 'society' that they're violent, and we should treat them as victims of society. Thus, we must have sympathy for them and assist them in understanding that violence is not nice. Unfortunately, confrontational criminals don't care what pseudo-sociologists say. Simply put, if you have something they want, they'll take it and utilise whatever violence they consider necessary in order to get it from you, for them it's simply a means to an end.

Many violent criminals live believing that items they want or need are actually deservedly theirs, or that somehow you, -or 'your kind'- have previously maligned or harmed them in some way. The kicker being that; _Unless You Personally Know Them, Reasoning With Them Will Only Anger Them. They're Already Hyped Up So Anything Other than Complete and Utter Compliance Will Only Make them More Angry, More Violent and More Vicious!_

Although it may seem obvious that trying to reason with violence doesn't work; apologists usually insist that this is one of the best and the most politically correct methods of stopping an ongoing attack. Another favoured piece of conditioning is to lie on the floor face down; covering your eyes with your hands whenever there is the chance of a confrontational crime about to be committed. (Known as the 'If-I-can't-see-you,-you don't exist' tactic used by small children)

Apologists usually think that offering no resistance to rape and/or robbery will stop that very same rape and/or robbery, this is probably one of the greatest mysteries of politically correct dogma!

The purpose of this simplistic and politically incorrect diatribe is to show that violent criminals do _NOT_ think the same way that you do, their brains are wired completely differently to yours. If a violent criminal confronts you, do not expect any normal social interaction to have any good results.

This is because instantly, you will unknowingly be transported into a terrifyingly different world, like Alice in Wonderland. Be well warned that this world has a completely different set of social rules and standards, none of which you will be familiar with. These rules and norms are however very real and rational to the violent criminal, as he lives within them all the time.

Let us therefore allow the apologists to get attacked, raped and murdered if it helps them feel that they are offering solidarity to the unpleasant childhood experiences of violent criminals. It may be that their politically correct conditioning is more important to them than their safety or that of their children. Allow the apologist to sacrifice themselves _on their own alter_ , because that's their own decision to make, it is not necessarily yours.

Certainly, conditioned dogma is more important to them than _YOUR_ safety. That may be fine for them, but most people don't want to be attacked, which is why you're looking for ways to enhance your own personal security and that of your family. That's why you're reading this.

Criminals, either adult or adolescent, have evolved into their own lifestyle. They have chosen violence as the means to achieve what they desire. At any time they could change to being non-confrontational criminals but why should they, it may be the only life they know.

Statistical analyst George K Zipf's 'Principle of Least Effort', (1950) states that most people –both criminals and victims- tend to find the shortest route, spend the least time, and seek the easiest means to accomplish something.

In the case of criminals, that's means establishing whether YOU –or something you have- offer a BG his most attractive target at that moment in time, given Zipf's parameters. In YOUR case, i.e. as a potential victim, simply put, it means investing an hour or so per month studying books like this.

But enough of the psycho/ socio-logical analysis and waffle! Let's briefly cover criminal logic.

Over the centuries it's become quite obvious that violent criminals are not in the least deterred by the police or the criminal justice system. If they were, there would be far less confrontational crime. But here's why; nearly all available research indicates that by far most criminals don't believe or accept that they're ever going to face justice, here's how it works for them.

1. Most BG's usually consider themselves far too clever to be caught and,

2. Most cops are stupid/ lazy/ entirely corrupt or at the very least overextended.

3. Even if they are caught, they believe that their case will never actually get to court, because the justice system is broken. Then,

4. Even if they do get to court, criminals reason that they'll either get away with it completely, because they'll either (a) get a smart lawyer, or (b) a useless prosecutor- so,

5. Even if actually convicted they'll get a much reduced sentence because the jails and prisons are overcrowded.

Overall, it's pretty hard to disagree with the twisted logic outlined above, isn't it?

Since time began, there have always been hunters and the hunted, so what can _YOU_ do to stop becoming the latter?

Unfortunately, it's not always possible to avoid confrontation. However, we can discourage the violent criminal, when avoidance is not possible. (Remember _DISCOURAGE?_ The second word in the ' _ADD_ ' concept)

So what is it that our research found tended to discourage violent criminals from attacking someone?

Firstly, discovering someone or something more visibly tempting or valuable than you. Given a choice of a brass ring or a gold ring, which one would you choose? This is the art of making yourself an apparently less worthwhile target than others around you, ie, making yourself look more like the brass ring and less like 'gold'. [The _TRANSFERENCE_ factor]

Secondly, a realisation by the criminal that it might take too much time and/ or effort to get what he wants; that he can get the same thing elsewhere without nearly so much effort. Most violent criminals don't like hard or risky work or having to work for too long a long time to get what they want. [The _Laziness_ factor]

Thirdly, a belief or suspicion that he may be hurt, killed, apprehended or hunted down like a mad dog afterwards if he attacks a particular person or target. Like any of us, he doesn't want to get hurt or killed, and like all criminals, he certainly doesn't want to be detained. [The _FEAR_ factor]

_Discouraging A Violent Criminal Relies On A combination of His Fear and his Laziness, By Looking Like You'd Be A Waste Of Time, or 'invisible' known by preppers as becoming a '_Gray man' (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFABNsb6dEI) _. (Thanks; BlackScoutSurvival)_

Whenever possible, strategies to discourage violent attacks should include as many of the options as possible. A single option may appear really attractive, and all that is necessary, but this is not necessarily always the case.

Your would-be attacker may for some reason have a fixation on you specifically; in such a case transference won't work. He may be too attracted to a particular item in a house to be lazy and in that case, encouraging the laziness factor may be a waste of time. Some attackers either don't even know the meaning of fear (it's rare but does happen), or are forced to overcome it by peer pressure, thereby rendering all deterrents ineffective.

So although it's highly unlikely that a would-be attacker would be totally unaffected by all three barriers presented by a target, then Part III of this book offers more options for you but a little thought and intellectual effort now could avoid a considerable amount of loss or pain (quite literally) later.

# Chapter 7  
THE TRANSFERENCE OPTION

In its simplest form, transference strategy is effective and relatively easy to maintain, unfortunately, it can for some people graduate into an exaggerated version sometimes causing you to change your psychology and lifestyle, in some cases actually attract violent attacks. More on that subject, later.

In this context, victim transference is when you cause a potential attacker to prefer to attack someone other than yourself. You are transferring his attention away from yourself, and therefore by default, towards someone (anyone) else in the vicinity.

Unless you're an accomplished illusionist, transference cannot achieved by making someone else more tempting to the criminal than yourself. You can only do this by making yourself less appealing, less noticeable, and less significant than those around you.

Common sense dictates that you shouldn't really wear expensive jewellery in public. (But then that's the oddity about common sense, it really isn't so common). Don't leave valuable items such as handbags, laptops, notebooks or cell phones on the car seat, whether you're in the car or not.

Indeed, don't be too ostentatious or leave valuable items in plain view as this attracts attention, rendering you a target. Use the car floor, the glove compartment, the boot (or trunk) to position attractive items out of view. Bear in mind that for someone who has nothing, ANYTHING is attractive. Let other, less informed people attract unwelcome attention.

For females and children, there's always the danger of unwanted sexual attention, unfortunately the bad news is that some rapists have been acquitted because they simply said that they couldn't help themselves; their excuse being that the victim's clothing was too revealing.

This might suggest that _According To Some Criminal Justice Systems, Certain Rape Victims May Be Held Liable for Promoting Their Own Vulnerability or Availability._

So, as a woman at least, it might seem that you can't win; if you defend yourself from rape, you may be charged with assault or attempted murder, if you don't resist, you may be considered to be consenting to the assault. Any way you cut it, you may be accused of something.

The only helpful advice (if indeed it can be called helpful) that can be offered to women in this respect is: Don't go to isolated or unsafe places if at all possible, and if you have to go into such dubious environments, don't go alone.

Wear whatever you wish in controlled and private environments, but have less revealing attire for public scrutiny. A loose skirt, a pair of baggy trousers or a 'fashionable' boiler suit, which you can comfortably wear over your more revealing clothes, can be useful tools in this regard.

If you're in a strange place, ensure that you don't let anybody into your (hotel) bedroom that you don't want to wake up with. In some cultures, the mere fact that you've allowed someone into your room is seen as consent, irrespective of what may happen and whether you say, "No!"

Make sure that you do everything reasonable to avoid trouble before you have to use force (if you so choose), to protect yourself.

The danger of excessive transference is that you, male or female, start to dress down and look and act like a subservient mouse, i.e. a soft target, or prey. So trying too hard at looking and acting in too insignificant a fashion, you may also develop a victim's mentality (including depression, inferiority complex and other psychoses) and soon become a magnet for any and all types of abuse.

It is possible to degenerate into a victim mentality. By overdeveloping transference to an excessive degree, you may transform yourself into the exact opposite of what was your original intention, which is to discourage violence and enjoy a confident lifestyle.

Like anything else in life, you need to take a balanced, moderated approach. Just lower your profile slightly, render yourself less conspicuous. Let the overtly 'Rich and Famous' attract all the unwanted attention, because they can afford the bodyguards.

# Chapter 8  
THE LAZINESS OPTION

Copious research indicates that if a task appears to present too much effort for a BG, most being lazy, they won't bother. That's the indication, employing this strategy often works quite well. Most people have heard of some criminal's preference for so–called 'soft targets', avoid looking like one.

If a BG thinks that he can get the same reward elsewhere with less effort, he'll tend to leave you alone. This means making it as difficult as possible to break in, or making a plan to attack you, really inconvenient.

Many reports indicate that criminals have a tendency to utilize gardening implements left lying around by homeowners to break in. Keeping useful tools locked away (when not in use) deprives trespassers the use of your own property to enter your house, just ensure that the lock-up is robust, properly secure and locked!

Unless the prize is really worthwhile to a criminal, by slightly changing your lifestyle as discussed in Part I it can produce real dividends. If it's appears that too much effort is required, like too much time/ intellect to get enough information to plan an attack, you've discouraged your would-be attacker from messing with you.

If as a result of this slight change in lifestyle, planning an attack upon your person appears to be too much like hard work, then you'll achieve the desired result, discouraging an attack.

The laziness option can be generated through physical barriers or through randomness of routes and timings. Ideally, both aspects should be considered for use in your overall strategy.

# Chapter 9  
THE FEAR OPTION

The fear option of successful deterrence relies on substance. If a criminal suspect that you're all bluff, he's going to get really annoyed, target you and you could end up at the very least traumatised, badly hurt or worse.

Deterrence relies on the fact that you are capable of protecting yourself and willing to use that capability, that your barriers are real and effective. Bluff in either sphere will generate within you a false sense of security resulting in you switching off your awareness button. Eventually you _WILL_ regret employing deterrents based on bluff.

Excessive deterrent display can lead to a conflict of aims. This is the opposite of the transference option. If you really 'strut your stuff' and show that you're a capable bad-ass, you might be considered as someone who actually goes around seeking harm to criminals, (and who doesn't?) but you're projecting yourself as a vigilante. So if you are forced to employ defensive force yourself, your legal defence afterwards could easily be seriously compromised; possibly leading to you being prosecuted. Viz; "Well he was always looking for trouble anyway".

Overt 'strutting' also may result in a hardened criminal thinking that you've possibly got something really worth defending; so often you merely end up rendering yourself a target and quite possibly attracting undesirable attention.

Also, too much aggression and posturing not only makes you offensive to most other people, but are you really physically and mentally capable of handling anything life may throw at you, like a real live lean mean fighting machine? What if you insult or annoy someone who is nastier, stronger and even more bad-ass than you? (Just because someone looks like a pushover, doesn't necessarily mean that they are.) This comes back to the concept of taking the balanced approach.

President Theodore Roosevelt once said, "Speak softly but carry a big stick." Someone whose life frequently involves violence (e.g. a confrontational criminal) can often recognise someone else that actually can look after themselves merely by observing their body language, so if your language betrays a bluff, you're toast.

You may have noticed that most true Martial Artists are very nice people indeed, even when threatened, this is because most ordinary people actually don't present much of a threat to them at all, at least any threat they can't counter that is.

If you've planned your defence, trained for serious situations and are aware of your surroundings, you sending out a subconscious message that it would be easier and less risky for an attacker to go attack someone else so you discourage attacks but this can also be quite easily faked.

A general rule of thumb is that you _be Quietly Confident and Visibly Aware of your Surroundings_. This attitude projects preparedness. Criminals bank on surprising their targets, not on being surprised BY their targets.

# Chapter 10  
DOGS

The poor dog, in life the firmest friend. The first to welcome, foremost to defend ~ Lord Byron

Generally speaking, most people considering animal deterrence think of dogs, big, potentially vicious dogs, kept locked up. People don't usually think of defending against attack off the property by way of dogs as unfortunately, few take their dog for walks, when of course they should. Walking around your suburb gives you a better idea of your neighbourhood and your neighbours a better idea of who you are, and your (often big, man-eating) companion.

Reading this far, you've no doubt started to accept that you are potentially at risk anywhere but with a little effort and thought, you can generally avoid an attack, even a hi-jacking. It's also nice to be able to discourage attacks if you can't otherwise avoid them; so some think, "Let's get a big dog."

Unfortunately, unless you train them very well, most dogs aren't as reliable or dependable as you might think. They are often poisoned prior to an attack for example, heart-breaking to all pet lovers.

Dogs are not as dumb as Donkeys but they're certainly nowhere near as clever as most humans. They're dogs, meanings that they should be properly trained. Occasionally an owner has to be quite strict to keep them in order. That means that you, the owner, also should be trained, which can be costly in terms of time and money. Dogs have to be fed, loved, trained and cared for, which can be expensive in emotional effort too. Just to round things off, there's the daily faecal clean-up and the vet's bills.

Few dogs can be both attack-dogs as well as family pets. They're usually either one or the other. Family pets will probably try to protect the family, but this is due to an inherent protective instinct of most animals.

The primary use of dogs is that they nearly always give you warning. Their olfactory senses are immensely better than our own so they are that much more aware of their surroundings. (Remember that word **awareness**?) Little, yappy, 'barking handbags' tend to be better at giving warning than larger breeds.

The downside of dogs is that they tend not only to bark at strangers; they also bark at other dogs, -which you won't hear-, and at the moon. They bark at mice in the grass, rats or birds in the roof space, and also for no apparent reason (to you at least). If you're lucky, you'll learn to distinguish when it's barking at strangers. If you're unlucky or impatient, you'll end up ignoring its warning, like the boy who cried wolf. And you know that story.

If a dog knows an intruder, he'll be treated as a friend and will not give any warning. A burglar may spend a considerable time getting to know your animal beforehand. You end up thinking that you're safe but your warning and burglar attack machine may be licking your attacker, or poisoned.

Most dogs are trusting, so laced meat may be readily eaten. Poison is usually thrown into your garden a few hours or sometimes days before a planned attack). Your dogs are now drugged, dying or dead. Will or can you train your dog only to eat food that solely _YOU_ give them. What happens when you go on holiday? Who feeds them then?

What if the dogs only accept food from your domestic staff? What if that person leaves? What if that person is forced to help your attackers?

If your dogs are vicious, you _MUST_ make sure that no one can enter their caged/wired area without considerable effort. You _MUST_ also have a means by which persons outside the household boundary can speak to people within the house; ie, an intercom. By not taking these precautions, your attackers may be able to sue you for defending yourself, ie for using dogs to protect you. Also, what about fools and/or children who don't take any notice of the warning signs (you must have warning signs) and can get into the dog's enclosure because it is not properly locked and secure.

When utilising dogs for security purposes it is highly recommended that you keep them somewhere inside the house at night. (Kitchens and conservatory's being preferred locations). That way, it was found that they usually still give a warning even if an intruder is known, (by smell). Furthermore, being inside makes it far more difficult to poison, terrorise or drug them. There's also the added advantage of little excuse for your attacker, once a dog bites an intruder inside the house. Just remember to release the dog or dogs in the morning for fresh air and ablutions.

Perhaps the biggest advantage that dogs have in discouraging an attack is that they bark. Yes, dogs may attack an intruder, but the fact that they can give warning forces an intruder to consider that the householder may now be awake or if already awake, now alerted from the animals warning, so therefore now has forewarning of an intruder on the property.

Dogs also have a useful part to play if they are sufficiently well-trained that you can take them into public places. If a dog looks sufficiently imposing, its presence is likely to discourage attacks on you while you are in your vehicle, or walking around.

Like anything else, dogs have their advantages and disadvantages. They are certainly not the ultimate solution, but they can be a very useful addition to your overall security plan. If nothing else, they make potential attackers and intruders think twice before planning against your interests.

# Chapter 11  
USE OF BARRIERS

" _Where there's a will, there's a way" ~ Samuel Smiles_

There is of course considerable overlap between Avoidance and Discouragement. Part I discussed the use of physical barriers to enable you to avoid contract/confrontation with your attacker. However, for this to be successful, these barriers must be sufficiently robust to discourage, or at worst, delay your attacker from/during gaining entry.

Remember, there is no such thing as an absolute barrier. A determined attacker will _Always_ eventually get through if sufficiently motivated, it is only the time he takes that varies. Consequently, the most successful security plans employ layers of varying methods designed to award you time, time to wait for help, tool up, defend, hide, or run.

Under normal conditions, sensible use of barriers and alarms can discourage most attempts at criminal entry. Be reminded; avoid the use of bluff in the design and construction of your barriers. Make sure that the design is sound and that construction and materials are up to specification. Murphy's Law being what it is, this ensures that any weaknesses or gaps in your security are harder to detect by a criminal.

Sometimes, a weakness obvious to criminals may not be so apparent to you, so you may have no inkling of it. You may have opted to take advice from a possibly clueless so-called 'security expert'. Someone who's perhaps only read an article or two in a magazine, or attending a five minute course given by another instant expert, or he's a security guard who falsely promotes himself as a security expert.

Bona fide security consultants may intimidate you because to some people they appear somewhat paranoid, or you might consider some (badly trained) security consultants as overly macho fear mongers. Perhaps his ideas are too expensive (your life being worth how much?), or his solutions are overly complicated or confusing.

Sometimes, an 'instant expert' can render you feeling safe and snug, so you're now unfortunately living in the glow of a _false_ sense of security. This leaves you not only ripped off but can also give you a false sense of security that destroys your awareness, making you an easy target. Remember Part I: _Awareness Keeps You Safe!_

_So Switch On! Become Aware_! If you can find flaws in your barriers, so can a criminal. When seeking security advice, as with any other contractor, demand referrals.

If you have several layers of security barriers, like the layers of an onion, it becomes more difficult to identify flaws in your security system, because it is more difficult to get through all the layers. More layers means more time is needed to get through them. More time spent means more chance of discouragement due to laziness and an increased chance of discovery.

'Layered' barriers gives a person greater control of those who have access to your house. You can keep people between or outside various layers. This in itself reduces the risk. It also suggests to any criminal that you probably know what you're doing, so trying to rob you or your house presents a higher degree of risk than someone else's.

Remember that in areas where you don't need privacy, you need to ensure that your barriers are designed so that you can see out (to at least H) but that any attacker will have considerable difficulty in seeing into the house. Therefore, in areas where you don't need walls for privacy or as boundaries, use see-through fencing wherever possible. Besides, it tends to be cheaper so you can use more of it for any given budget.

Of course it is easy to cut through wire, but you can watch them do it. If you have electrified fencing as part of the barrier, this will not only give you warning, but it will require knowledgeable criminals to cut through the electrified fence without giving warning. Of course, if you have several layers of wire, this offers considerably more discouragement. Do make sure that your electric fence cannot come into contact with anything, which could earth the circuit, since this will cause false alarms and/or cause the circuit to trip.

While it is easy to cut through a fence, it is not easy to cut through a wall. But it's very quiet, quick and easy to climb over that wall using ladders.

If you're in a rural area, a good option may be to use wire fencing in conjunction with thorn fencing. Good thorn hedging is not see-through, but if planted in a deep ditch, you'll be able to see over it. Mature thorn hedging can be cut quite easily cut with secateurs, just not quietly, meaning an intruder should make sufficient noise to wake you or your dog up, especially if they've initially had to get through an electrified fence. Daily inspection will tell you if someone has been trying to get into the property, or is preparing to enter.

An effective barbed or razor wire fence should have a degree of sag in it. While it must be robust, there must be sufficient looseness that it cannot be easily climbed, and/or matting laid across it. You want the wire to catch and entangle the intruder. Yet, you don't want it to completely collapse under his weight. You want it to trap an intruder, the way that a spider's web traps a fly.

The same principle applies to thorn hedging. It should be high, but again it needs to be sufficiently saggy that while it is easy to start entry through the hedge, the hedge envelopes the intruder, and he becomes stuck within, unable to move easily or quietly. Such sagginess in wire or hedging is readily apparent to even a semi-professional criminal, and he'll tend to prefer to go and pay someone else a visit. Someone who is perhaps more interested in image than in effective security.

The more isolated you are, the less friendly the neighbourhood where you live, or the more private the potential access to the household, the stronger your barrier needs to be, and be seen to be. If you live with see-through or no fencing and adjacent to a street light in a friendly neighbourhood, you can get away with less strong security grills. Yes, they must be strong, but due to the probability of being observed and caught, the grills can be slightly less sturdy than the ones at the rear of the house.

If you live in a free-fire zone, or on a plot, or in the middle of nowhere, your barriers need to be really effective.

Remember, you _DO_ need security barriers at _ALL_ potential entry points. This includes points which you may never open, and it includes any large panes of glass that don't open. Also remember that children are often used to gain entry and open access doors/windows. An entry point is any point where someone can gain access; this includes breaking through something.

As a general rule of thumb, it's more effective to mount bars inside, rather than outside of windows. This is because an intruder must first break a window to interfere with burglar bars. Some people have even put bars both sides of windows but this can looks quite ugly. Bars mounted outside of windows can be pulled off or broken with the help of a vehicle; outside bars can also be tampered with or weakened gradually, over long periods of time.

Ensure that when bars are rawlbolted into place and your contractor has welded them immobile, otherwise an adjustable spanner may be all that is required to remove them. Alternatively, a compound adhesive like liquid steel around a section the bolt head, after securing, prevents easy -and quiet- removal.

Grouting security bars into place may be acceptable for bars on the inside but it is certainly not acceptable for bars that are situated outside of windows and other openings. Cement has quite a poor tensile strength and a few people or a vehicle can easily pull barriers from walls. Chemical anchors are rather more expensive but are more permanent fixtures, similar in function to rawlbolts, except that Chem anchors don't put any tension within a wall, anchor-bolts cannot however be unscrewed afterwards, only the nut can. Using anchors at the bottom of a fitting and rawlbolts at the top is considered a good 'mix'.

Also consider security within roofs and above ceilings. Entry is often easily and quietly gained through a loose-tiled roof. In remote areas, attackers usually wish to gain entry into your secure area (in houses of sufficient size). Remember that this is the area you sleep in, or retreat to. You've separated your hidey hole with a security door from the main part of the house haven't you? Many criminals have been known to climb into the roof space from an adjacent room just to gain entry into a secure area.

Expanded sheet metal nailed to overhead beams and rafters above bedrooms makes a most effective barrier because it's quite difficult to cut through and almost impossible to do quietly if properly affixed. Also, long thin strands of copper wire (stripped from scrap transformers or acquired cheaply from a radio/ TV repair shop) strung out and draped around inside your loft space usually renders loft-intruders considerably concerned; since they must only guess as to what they might be connected to. In the dark, this practice also replicates spiderweb, large and potentially-deadly spider web.

Within your safe area, ensure that you establish a position that has cover from view and cover from fire. That means that someone can't see into this area from outside the house or from another part of the house. If possible, ensure that this area is made of robust materials able to deflect projectiles from a fair-sized handgun like say a .357 Magnum.

If possible ensure that there is at least one other exit from the safety area in the event of fire, or similar disaster. If possible this exit should have a very low profile, so that you can get away from the house unseen if you have to make a getaway.

For people living in remote areas, it's recommended to have fire extinguishers within the safety area, also –regularly tested- drinking water and a comprehensive first aid kit. If you own firearms, the gun-safe should also be mounted inside the safety area, if nothing else, for access to secure backup ammunition.

# Chapter 12  
ALARMS

Many of us hear opportunity knocking at our door, but by the time we pushed back the bolt, turned two locks and shut off the burglar alarm - it was gone. ~ Unknown

The concept of electric fences was brought up in the previous section. Usually, when people think of electric fences, they think of the cost of the current passing through it, (current -i.e. Amps- being costly). Many people incorrectly believe that it's the current that gives the intruder the shock to discourage attempts at entry but in fact it's the -pulsed- high voltage that gives the jolt.

Voltage is only a potential available between two points, (like water pressure available on a garden hose that's turned off at the sprayer end and on at the tap), so voltage is not a permanently running cost, voltage is just the beasty in the wires waiting to bite someone, that 'potential' is not costing you anything, until its needed.

Electrified fencing also provides a rather more useful function in that it can give an alarm, -if it bites someone or the wire is cut-, thereby providing a warning to owners, thereby giving them time to wake if necessary but otherwise awarding them time to prepare. Be warned that all manner of things, like rain, twigs, insects and plants can also trip electric fences so be careful that overhanging foliage cannot come into contact with such fencing, especially if and when wet. Wet branches droop lower. For electric fencing info, WIKI 'Electric Fence'

A fences warning alarm is the real discouragement to intruders; after all, criminals don't want their prey waiting for them whilst breaking in because they don't know how they may be received, or for that matter who else the householder has backing them up. An electric shock only adds to intruders problems, which is of course precisely the aim.

Just like the rest of us, criminals are also likely to paint their imagination with the colours of their own (and acquaintances) attitudes and experiences. If the crim was the householder for example, he'd personally be inclined to use excessive violence. Since an intruder doesn't wish to be caught and his worst fears turned into reality, he's likely to be dissuaded from continuing to trespass.

There are ways other than the use of electric fencing to determine whether unwanted guests are attempting to break through any or all the layers of your security barriers. Electric fencing is good at discouraging entry due to the general perception of its effectiveness. It needs some knowledge and practice to cross without giving the alarm and getting a shock in the process. Unfortunately, a skilled criminal can get through without generating a warning, or being shocked, but then 'skilled criminals' are not the norm.

Another useful warning device is active infra-red (IR) beams and detector. As long as the detector can sense the accompanying IR beam transmitted into it, it does not trip an alarm. Breaking the beam by the presence of someone or something passing across it, does trip the alarm. Such devices need to be installed properly so that animals don't trip it, this is usually accomplished by using two beams positioned around 2 to 3 ft. above and below each other, tripping only one fails to trip the alarm. Beams are really useful if set up in conjunction with an electric fence. Few criminals expect both an electric fence and active IR sensors, especially if combined with automatic floodlighting too.

As with any (powered) system, active IR needs a battery back-up, also, misty, smoky or rainy conditions render most IR beams visible. This is especially true for the older (surplus) and cheaper systems. However, one can cover a lot of fence line with them.

Despite these minor disadvantages, such a system can be considered good value for money in isolated conditions. If nothing else, having a high-tech looking 'primary' system warns potential intruders of your serious intent, they should however be backed up with secondary methods.

Geophone seismic sensors are good but high-end, they can include software that distinguishes four legged animals from two-legged ones but this also adds to cost. Geophones are small pressure sensors located underground which pick up and relay the position of vibrations through the ground from people or vehicles above them.

You need to know where people do not walk along your fence line and where there are footpaths and tracks. Geophones need to be sited a considerable distance from where anybody may be legitimately walking at night. Via software, Geophones indicate the location of an intruder on your security board via zones.

Both these systems, as well as electric fencing, can sound a 'silent' alarm, or inform a base station that there's an intruder, without the intruder being aware that his presence has been detected.

These days, due to their popularity, the market has made it quite easy to obtain very cheap, self-contained, battery-powered motion detectors with alarms, (at some outlets, less than $10). Again, care must be taken to ensure that large animals are not able to access the areas where such sensors are installed otherwise false alarms can occur. If it has such, check that the sensors sensitivity has been adjusted such that small animals, e.g. cats and mice, do not set them off. (Check at the POS that the sensor is adjustable and suitable, then read the instructions carefully to install).

Some outdoor sensors come fitted to a very bright lamp or LED array. There is no reason why the lamp cannot be removed from the fitting and set up to send power to a different function like a siren. Another option is to send the triggered voltage to an alternative or additional location such as a lamp and small buzzer in the bedroom.

Electric fencing, break-beam devices and geophones are all area detector systems; ie, they can cover a considerable area. They must be sited with this in mind. Overlapping them and placing such devices in depths (layered), if the budget allows, gives you a considerable understanding of the movement of your intruder. This gives you a significant and distinct advantage, an advantage that does not go unnoticed by intruders.

However, the average motion detector only covers a small area such as one room or passageway. Motion detectors with or without using lights and sirens in conjunction are best used in areas that are not adequately covered by other systems. An example would be where a fence line meets a stream; where people could gain entry by walking down the stream, if a stream passes through your property.

Unfortunately, the very great majority of the population can't afford these sometimes-expensive gadgets. A cheap means of warning can be made by improvising a tripwire connected to a battery-powered alarm, so when the wire is pulled, it trips. However, improvised tripwires with soft drink cans filled with a few pebbles also gives an audible warning as an unwanted person approaches the house. Lengths of tangled wire in the garden can also cause confusion to trespassers but may present a hazard to pets or children.

There are of course many sensors suitable for indoor use, a wise investment is to visit one or two security shops or search online for availability in your area and to get ideas and see what would be most suited for your specific situation. The most commonly uses detectors are Passive Infra-Red (PIR), magnetic reed switch, trembler sensors and break-glass detectors. A very recent addition to the 'smart' household sensor range is the 'Oval' (http://www.meetoval.com/) go check it out. Although it's currently in start-up, it should be available soon, if not already.

PIR's (usually known as 'passives') detect the presence of, -or changes in- temperature within its line of sight, therefore may not be the best system if large dogs move around the house at night. You must close the windows in a room with a (non-sensitive) PIR prior to switching on the system as a draught or moving curtain may trip the detector, generating a false alarm. Passives with sensitivity settings are less likely to give false alarms from pets. Passives also come in cheap, autonomous battery–powered alarm units.

Reed-detectors are small magnetic proximity switches, usually -but not always- two parts located together, which (when they're separated) announce the opening of a door, window or jewellery box. These also come in inexpensive, battery-powered, autonomous units which can be simply placed inside a window on the ledge.

Break glass detectors sense the vibration of breaking glass. Some break glass detectors _MUST_ be calibrated to the frequency of breaking of the specific type of glass that is in a window.

It's not considered wise to integrate the output of your outdoor sensors directly into your alarm/response system because some outdoor systems are prone to generate false alarms. Your security company (or whoever else responds) called too often to false alarms may end up in them not even responding at all or they may charge extra following too many false callouts. Alternatively you may eventually be charged for a service engineer to check or re-calibrate your equipment. (Remember the cry-wolf story & conclusion)

# Chapter 13  
ALARM RESPONSE

Outdoor alarm systems are good for warning people inside the house that there are potentially dangerous people either breaking into the property or on the grounds. Alarms warn you so you're alerted to phone for help or you've got time to leave, or do whatever you've _Planned_ to do for a given set of circumstances.

Indoor alarms tell you that someone is busy with -or has already- broken into the actual house, or some other sensitive building.

You may be asleep in the house or the break-in may occur while you're out. The break-in may be non-confrontational in nature, in that the burglars hope to get away before anybody turns up. Unfortunately, it seems to be fashionable for burglars in some areas to break in then wait for the householders to return, making this no longer non-confrontational. One only has to watch the media to know how unpleasant such situations can get!

The primary purpose of indoor alarms is to generate a rapid, preferably armed response. (If it's from a silent panic or duress alarm, then it's going to be an unexpected armed response.)

Any would-be intruder knows that if an indoor alarm is tripped, he can expect armed reaction people to arrive with the particular intention of arresting him by way of whatever force is necessary. If he suspects that the response is going to be rapid then he's going to go elsewhere so you've discouraged his intended break-in.

Unfortunately this method only works if the intruder knows that your armed reaction is going to be rapid and well executed. 'Well executed' usually involving the use of lots of force, possibly lots of violence, which is why you may occasionally experience an alarm trip without anyone actually breaking in, BG's are testing your system and response time.

If your theology/philosophy does not allow you to use violence, you've got a moral dilemma. If violence has to be used to protect you or your children, you could be morally as culpable as the person who uses violence -on the companies behalf-, 'in your name'. You could have unarmed response; it could work and your attacker could die laughing on seeing your response unit arrive in say Easter bunny or Santa suits, you could rethink your morality, or you could remain a hypocrite.

How good is your armed response company? How long have they been in business? When was the last time you tested the system? What area does the control room cover? How many vehicles are in your area at any given time? Do the response operatives know precisely where your house is located and how to get there, or -as in many cases- do they have to first peruse a map or enter your location on a GPS? Is your street on the map? Can responders identify your house? Is it clearly marked and well lit?

You may not have access to an armed response company but more of that later. Before aspects related to response companies are discussed, a closer examination of actual systems is in order.

Most alarm and detection systems are adequate for the job required. Some are better than others. If a system is too complicated, most aspects of that system won't be used so any system _Must Be User Friendly_. After all, there's no point in having a system too confusing to use. How many of us are so technically minded that we enjoy playing with the controls of complicated electronics? Even if you do, how many of those devices may save yours or your family's life?

If you're fortunate enough to live in an area that is covered by a competent armed response company, you have a choice of the system being connected by radio, auto-dialler or cellular-type transmitter. Ideally you should employ at least two of these since phone lines can be cut and radios and cell transmitters can be adversely affected by thunder storms and solar CME's, (sunspots).

Systems that use and/or contact yours and others cell phones are also quite popular. Here are ten free ones (http://www.hongkiat.com/blog/android-personal-safety-women-apps/) to get you started, with links to others on that site. Research current product availability in your area and online to determine what is most appropriate to your budget, lifestyle and location. Getting it right first time means you won't have to change your system but employing a modular approach means you can start something for free or low cost, then add on later.

Regularly checking that am alarm system functions correctly is a must. Usually, the first thing an installer will do after installing a system is phone the control room and tell them that he's testing it. He should press your panic alarm and trip various sensors, testing all your sensors independently. Does the control room pick you up on all the communication mediums available. **You should always ask the installer to guide you through arming and disarming until** _you're satisfied_ **that you've got it right.**

In many cases, companies may eventually charge you for false alarms but none should charge for testing/checking 'their' system if you tell them beforehand. If they do, get a new monitoring company. False alarms do not count as tests, not for any company. Too many false alarms may even result in termination of your contract so always verify the terms of your agreement.

When you have a false alarm, (and everyone has them), immediately phone the control room and inform them. Their contact number should always be in a handy place like on the fridge or right near the phone. If done in reasonable time, your event should not be classified as a false alarm and the responders are immediately stood down from your call to either be ready or deployed to a _Real_ emergency if needed.

However, when you first sign a monitoring contract, you should arrange that you may test the system, including an actual random one, within the first week or so, or until the system works properly, at no charge. Time the response but choose a non-busy time for the monitoring company. You then have an idea of how long you really have if you ever do have to press the panic alarm, (at that time of day anyway).

Most monitoring companies operate a confirmation system called an 'under duress' code. Usually this is part of the control room SOP, (Standard Operating Procedure). If you're ever forced to switch off your alarm by burglars, or are restrained by burglars, when phoned by the control room you give them the 'under duress' code and not the usual private authorisation code used to cancel a false alarm.

Ensure that the panic alarm sends an alternate alarm signal to the monitoring company than the conventional alarm signal, (the one from say a window-open detector) or they may phone you to confirm your alarm status, not a good idea if you're already under threat or the control of an intruder, or you're hiding from an intruder somewhere in a safe area.

So should panic alarms be silent or noisy? Well, you want to alert your intruder, so panic and duress alarms should be silent. You don't want an intruder to know that someone is actually in the house -by tripping an alarm- or that you've called for help by using an overt duress alarm because once an alarm is tripped, if the intruder doesn't run away, you're possibly taken hostage or harmed but at the very least you will have generated immense hostility in him!

Ensure that your response company's SOP states that in the event of a panic or duress alarm, the computer operator _Should Not_ phone the client to check for a false alarm, but Should _Immediately_ dispatch a response team, unless of course you want the operator to have a nice chat with your attackers first, probably not! It's perfectly fine for the security company to phone to check that any other type of alarm is real, but do you really want them to tell your intruder that you've tripped an alarm yourself? By setting off a noisy panic or duress alarm in their presence, be assured that _They Will Probably Panic, Resulting In YOU Suffering The Consequence,_ not your security advisor or response personnel.

An intruder may not know that you're in the house but he certainly will if your security company phones him. If you have a silent alarm, you can set it off while you're hiding, and the intruder won't know that you're there but only if the security company doesn't phone him. You really don't want an attacker to know that you've set off a duress alarm so that's why its recommended that its silent. Despite the above, your own situation may be unusual; you may decide that it's better to have a noisy panic alarm, just think it through and come to your own decision! Then ensure that the alarm technician installs the system the way that _YOU_ want it and validate your monitoring companies SOP.

If you need a noisy alarm for a particular situation, many systems incorporate a facility for an 'instant panic' receptor at the control board. The system then detects your signal and generates a standard noisy alarm. But to enable this, you need to thoroughly know your system. A further reason to perform tests is to ensure that the security company has installed the system to _YOUR_ requirements, and that you completely understand its use.

Panic remotes are handy but ensure that the batteries are tested from time to time. A flat battery in the remote won't function of course. Panic remotes need to be on your person at all times because if they're not, you won't have it available when needed. With this in mind, your panic should be as physically small as possible, so that it's more likely to be on your person at all times.

Some remotes can maintain quite a long distance effective range, good ones up to 100 meters, meaning you can press your remote panic way out in the garden or at the bottom of a long driveway if necessary. Sophisticated systems can enable remotes to control many different functions. Even more sophisticated systems can automatically switch themselves on and off at certain times of the day.

As discussed in Part I, this is a good type of system if you have people working in your house while you're away. With some systems, one can control the whole system using only a single multi-button remote, or a smartphone. Full on top end systems these days also allow remote control of all functions and even monitoring of the home from anywhere on the planet in real-time via your smartphone and the use of IP cameras.

If a criminal forces you to open the house and you have a remote on you, you can press your panic (to obtain an armed response) then still be witnessed –by an intruder- to be 'apparently' switching off the system within the house (silent mode), allowing the criminal to think that no alarm has been raised so there will be no armed reaction. If the panic alarm is silent, your attacker won't know that you've pressed it, so you've given yourself an increased chance of survival.

Another add-on to good security systems is that one can also connect smoke detectors to the main board. This allows your security system to double as a smoke alarm as well. You do need to check that your security company is aware that this zone has been connected to smoke detectors, and that they should automatically call you (to wake you up if you're asleep, or to see if you've just burnt your toast), then they call the fire brigade.

This is all very well if you have a reasonable security company in the area, but what if you don't, because of your isolation?

There are systems that are designed for just this situation, i.e. for farms and other rural businesses. These alarm systems can be interlinked to form household self-support groups with capable first responders. That is, households in a given area mutually support one another, so once an alarm goes off in one household, the other households are immediately informed (of the alarm raiser), allowing them to respond in a pre-organised fashion. As this is organised on a mutual support basis, apart from the initial capital outlay, running costs are thereby minimised and of course response times are usually excellent.

This is reminiscent of ancient Anglo-Saxon Law requiring each group of ten households (a 'Ten') to keep 'The Peace' by mutually supporting each another, generally acting as protection against crime in the area. Signs erected denoting this aspect of crime prevention not entirely going unnoticed by those with ill-intent.

Plans need to be made within the group of households/farms/whatever, on what must be done in the event of various alarms. Further aspects of this are discussed in Part IV; mutual community cooperation. When needed, systems exist that allow for movable passives (PIR's); at sites requiring temporary surveillance such as when holding parties with multiple guests or if building work or maintenance is going on, at or near your premises.

Some multi-remote systems, specifically designed for mall shopping centres, have been adapted for sheltered housing, e.g. retirement villages. This type of installation has also been adapted for reduced income communities or agri-villages.

Systems described immediately above usually consist of one central control unit or receiver, sometimes with a printer or digital recording option, serving multiple transmitters (remotes), they can become very attractively priced once the cost is divided between group owners or tenants, or alternatively organised by a body corporate structure.

Each remote (identified individually by the receiver) may have multiple functions or merely a single panic alarm function. There is no reason why an organised group in say a less affluent area, or a community organisation like an enclosed suburb or townhouse complex shouldn't make a deal with a local security company to also monitor a group system such as this and respond as necessary.

This works out to be a very cost effective means of providing armed response to economically challenged groups (or just groups working together with a limited budget). The portable passive being of particular effectiveness as an entire groups intruder alarm.

So in short, perform thorough research to ensure that you get the system best suited to your property, finances, environment, occupation and lifestyle, ask your local police station's crime prevention officer, neighbourhood watch, residents association, security company or acquire a good consultant if you can afford one.

# Chapter 14  
ISOLATED RETAIL OUTLETS

Premises that deal in cash may be considered 'isolated', or at least it certainly feels that way when being subjected to an armed robbery. Naturally, some premises are more isolated than others. The considerations within this section generally relate to the more geographically isolated situations. Cases, which are less than 'worst case' can be simplified, and 'short cut' as considered applicable.

Most Cash-Based Retail Outlets Present Attractive Targets.

Let's assume that the value of any individual item on the premises is not that high, relatively speaking, otherwise specialist precautions must be taken. Let's also assume that precautions have been taken to ensure that money or goods cannot be readily taken by sleight-of-hand, (snatching), or via various 'street cons' (http://brainz.org/10-most-devious-street-cons-and-how-avoid-them/) but these are usually non-confrontational in nature so therefore outside of this books scope.

Under normal conditions, transference isn't going to work, since even relatively small amounts of cash are going to be attractive to someone. However, a mixture of laziness and fear of identification usually suffices to discourage most criminals.

The first thing to ensure is that there is no way that staff can access large amounts of cash that may be on the property. This is not to show distrust of the staff, but to reassure and protect them from attack by ensuring that criminals know that holding up the premises and threatening employees will achieve _little reward, compared to the risk_.

Of course, this inability of the staff to access large amounts of cash must be made _Blatantly Obvious to everyone._ This is why the first thing we see when we visit many local malls are signs telling us that all cash is locked up in a safe, that only security company staff have the keys but none of the staff do. Therefore threatening or doing harm to the staff is a waste of time, because the money can't be accessed that way!

For this, a large, heavy and imposing safe is required. It needs two means of entry. first is a one-way drop system to deposit cash into it (a drop-slot). The second is a normal lockable door to remove cash, but _with no one on site having access to the key_. This means that there is very little available cash (in the tills) at any time, thereby making it less worthwhile to rob, except when the cash is being removed.

The most likely times for a robbery are at opening, closing and when the cash is being transferred. This is especially true if there is a perception that cash is moved at or after closing time.

The key to your security is managing the assets. You should now apply simple economic theory. It may be necessary to have a security guard to inhibit sticky fingers, but such a person is inadequate to protect you when you're moving cash and besides, these people have been frequently known to be involved with the bad guys (either voluntarily or involuntarily).

You therefore utilise increased security at opening, closing and when you're moving bulk cash, so that it becomes much more difficult, risky and dangerous for all but the very specialised and determined criminal to consider robbing the premises.

If your turnover is sufficient, and you're on a potential cash-in-transit route, and the expense is not too much, getting a competent specialist company to collect the cash and move it to a bank makes good sense. If your premises are in a small complex with others, it may be a good strategy to arrange for all the businesses to pool costs and use the same cash-in-transit company.

Unfortunately this may not be economically viable, or the premises are too isolated like with farm shops or no cash-in-transit vans pass close by, what then? Then, you'll have to consider moving the cash yourself. The problem with this is that whenever you're on your way to do the banking, everyone (rightly or wrongly) assumes that you're depositing the takings, so you'll Raise Your Target and Risk Profile _._

In the case of a farm shop or similar situation, you can covertly or randomly relocate the takings to a safe in the main homestead or similar place of safety, once there however the cash still has to be moved to the bank eventually, or retrieved by a collection service.

There's now a choice of either moving the cash overtly or covertly. If moving it overtly, you've got to do so with a show of strength. If covertly, it's got to be subtly, just how often do you think you use the same trick? How many friends and relatives do you have that you trust implicitly, and are also willing to risk their necks for _Your_ profits?

Bear in mind that there's always at least ONE person that knows how much you're banking and when you bank it, the bank clerk. If you just get into your fast car, you _WILL_ eventually be robbed, as many a small rural shopkeeper can testify. Robbers may just decide to also kill you -to negate any witnesses- and take the car as well if its desirable enough.

Nowadays, unfortunately things are getting to the point where one has to consider taking an overt approach. This is not good, because it means a set-piece operation involving more than one vehicle and several people.

# Chapter 15  
TRANSPORTING HIGH VALUE LOADS

When moving valuables or money covertly, many choose the transference factor. One must look so uninteresting, so ordinary that you aren't given even a second glance by the opportunist robber. Nothing that you have or wear should either indicate that you're carrying valuables (cash) or anything of an inherently attractive nature. i.e. _Don't Invite a Robbery or Hijack By Driving A Flashy Vehicle, Or By Wearing Gucci or Armani._

_Appearing Visibly Wealthy_ or looking expensively dressed entirely negates the purpose of taking the covert approach to moving cash safely. A new luxury SUV is not very covert, nor is a mini-skirt or stilettos. Ideally, wearing jeans or chino's and driving a well-maintained banger (clunker) is much less noticeable but any 'low key' clothing will suffice.

This kind of attire is also much more useful if one encounters 'difficulties', because it facilitates more capable handling of physical stress, like running or fighting. Using a vehicle fitted with a bull-bar/ tow-ball facilitates the ramming of other vehicles should the need arise. When employing the covert option, one needs to employ all of the techniques discussed in Part I. _Avoidance_ is the game, with a liberal sprinkling of _Transference_ in the mix.

If you think the transference factor isn't your style, either because it doesn't suit you or your situation doesn't allow for it, you must either employ professionals to transport your valuables for you or you must opt for the overt option.

Driving a muscle car or pick-up with two beefcakes toting carbines is not the answer, it is however a good way to attract unwelcome attention! This is because _Any Single Vehicle, whether Armoured or Not, In Daylight Or At Night, Driven by a 'Normal' driver Is Very Easy To Disable._

One only needs to read Crime reports, watch lame stream news or YouTube to learn how often cash-in-transit vans, travelling alone are often successfully robbed. Learn also how incidents involving single vehicles in rural and suburban areas are shot up. So accept the following;

The most important factor is to have at least two vehicles. One vehicle –usually the lead- carries the goodies, the other is occupied by a suitably impressive escort. The second vehicle is the 'follow car'. It is the existence of a 'follow car' that usually discourages most ambushes. This is why even most 'Assets in Transit' companies use them these days, both covertly and overtly.

The simple reason being, that the existence of a following car permits a counter-attack to most ambushes, in the process denying an ambush's likely success. Thus, (unless you're carrying an absolute fortune), _If Ambushers Are Not Assured Of Control and Success, Then They're Probably Not Going to Attempt One, that's how an ambush is effectively Discouraged_.

Handling things this way, it's recommended that you _Practice_ a dry run. One should also keep the police generally informed of this tactic (but not of course when actually moving a high value load!), - or you're merely informing even more potential attackers.

If possible use a third vehicle, a motorcycle serves admirably due to its attributes, as long as all drivers are in radio comm's with each other. A third vehicle is used as an advance car. If a third vehicle isn't available, the 'follow car' enters any final point in front of the valuable load vehicle, (VLV). Thereby causing any ambush to be sprung before the VLV arrives. Again, an unsuccessful robbery, so why bother?

A follow car should keep a reasonable distance from the Value car, anything between two and four vehicles; otherwise there may not be enough time to react. Also don't travel too fast, as trouble may not be avoided at speed, so again, you won't have the reaction space.

Ideally both vehicles should be tough, well maintained and have plenty of power. 4 x 4's or small trucks are ideal if they're to be used in rural areas. If you're a farmer, and you've got an old 4 x 4 or truck idling around in the back yard, it may be worth welding some sheet steel panels onto it, upgrading the engine and other mechanical aspects; then using it as either the cash car or follow vehicle. It will be much more imposing, offer more protection, and be more discouraging to would-be attackers.

Such vehicles can also be used if you have to drive around in dangerous areas at night. It would also be an ideal response vehicle, should one be necessary; but more of that in Part IV.

This technique is also useful for collecting wages. Ideally you pay your staff by banker's order, or electronically, but if you have to pay cash, this is the way to go. If you're smart, (and you must be if you're reading this), find out who else in the area has to pay their staff in cash and form a convoy. It will take longer since you'll have to visit all the premises/businesses in the group, but it will be so much safer.

By using up to four or five armoured pick-ups or light trucks in a convoy, it would take a gang of considerable strength and stupidity to even consider an attempt on robbing you, let alone succeeding.

# Chapter 16  
DISCOURAGEMENT IN A NUTSHELL

If you can't _AVOID_ violence, then you must _DISCOURAGE_ it. Confrontational criminals know you're there because they can clearly see you, so making yourself appear too insignificant, too difficult or too dangerous to be worthwhile attacking makes good sense. In the animal kingdom, it's called camouflage, in the human world it's called bluffing.

If avoidance isn't working for you, discouragement may.

Unfortunately, as stated earlier and to the utter disbelief of apologists and pseudo-intellectual sociologists, there are of course some violent criminals that are too impatient, too greedy, too overconfident or too uninformed to take heed of any barriers or warnings but they usually enjoy relatively short career paths one way or another.

Keep in mind that although most violent criminals don't have the same psychology as the rest of us, just like us, they all have instincts, so if something doesn't feel right, they'll move on.

So, despite your every effort not to become the victim of a violent confrontational attack, you have to be politically incorrect and defend yourself (or someone else) from a potentially murderous attack. Or, you've got to give in and give him what he wants, whatever that is. _ENJOY!_

It's still Your Choice whether you're going to be a Victim or Not!

Assuming you're not a heavyweight wrestler, a highly skilled martial artist, permanently carrying an AK 47 around or a politician insulated from society by armed guards. You're a normal person, alone and without a bodyguard, what avenues remain?

Press on dear reader, Part III follows; Defence.

# PART THREE - DEFENSE

" _If you know the enemy and know yourself, you need not fear the result of a hundred battles, If you know neither the enemy nor yourself, you will succumb in every battle."_

\- Sun Tzu

# Chapter 17  
DEFINING DEFENSE

Just so we're clear, within our scope, the two primary definitions of the word defense are:

1. 'Resistance against attack; protection'.

2. 'Something that defends, as in a fortification, or physical or mental quality'.

Understanding these definitions should lead to a better grip on the matter, hopefully rendering the rest of this chapter easier to follow. Some of the words used are employed loosely, perhaps causing confusion if used out of the readers context but if you are unfortunate enough to be in a situation where you have to use potentially lethal force to protect your life, using (and thinking in terms of) these definitions may help you later in a defence against possible prosecution, (later on, in Court).

Thus, in this book's context, ' _Defence' is the act of causing the cessation of a perceived or actual violent physical attack, either by way of the threat of force or the actual use thereof._

An attack may be ongoing, or the attacker(s) may be about to initiate his (or their) attack, ie an attack is in the process of starting. Again, it is assumed for the purposes of this book, that the attack is criminal and targeted against an innocent victim or victims.

In previous sections, an attacker is referred to in the third person singular and male but in reality of course your attacker/intruder could be either sex, singular or plural. Victims rarely know how many attackers exist even during or after it commences.

While attacks such as muggings apparently tend to be most commonly carried out by gangs of three or more, this is not a given. As with pickpocketing and mall-trolley 'bump and snatches', there are very often more people involved in an attack than are immediately suspected.

Readers will also notice that no weapon types are specified in definitions of defense. This is because any item can be used as a potentially lethal offensive weapon, a glass bottle, table knife or even fork can also be used, sometimes with deadly effect, for one's own defense.

There are some attacks about which a person can do very little. These usually relate to non-specific targets; mass action or spontaneous rioting being used as a cover for criminal activity being examples. The only thing that you can do, is avoid areas in which such types of attack may occur, or rapidly leave any area that suddenly becomes risky.

This handbook focusses rather on attacks about which something can be done. So, to that end; _A Criminal Attack Is When There Has Been an Immediate Threat of -Or actual Use of- Violence Towards another Person or Persons For Which There Was No Legal Justification._

There's no mention of the type of weapon so the important factor is the perceived intent of the attacker. Is that intent potentially lethal or not? Apologists would have us believe that the type of weapon used determines the crime. Common sense and Roman-Dutch Law would indicate that it's actually the intent of the criminal and the extent of the injuries, which determine the crime.

Many armchair critics (and defence Attorneys) preach that any defence should be appropriate and proportional to the perceived intent of the attacker. Factors such as their size, abilities and weapons, versus the size and abilities of the victim, that only sufficient force may be utilised in defense.

_One should of course factor this into any defensive Strategy because even following a successful defense, a person could still end up in serious trouble!_ In other words, any defence must be viewed –by a reasonable person- as being appropriate to the attack. So, _keep it simple!_

It is strongly recommended that you _limit Any Defensive Use of Potentially Lethal Force To Attacks That Are Perceived By You, At That Very Moment To Be Potentially Deadly._ In other words _, Unless There is a Clear Threat to Someone's Life or Bodily Integrity, Do Not Use or Threaten Lethal Force_. If you really have to use force, first use what should be obviously viewed by potential witnesses (and authorities afterwards) as less-than-lethal force, i.e. simply the threat.

As the British Crown Prosecution Service (http://www.cps.gov.uk/legal/s_to_u/self_defence/) (CPS) puts the issue. "When reviewing cases involving assertions of self-defence or action in the prevention of crime/preservation of property, prosecutors should be aware of the balance to be struck between:

1. The public interest in promoting a responsible contribution on the part of citizens in preserving law and order; and

2. Discouraging vigilantism and the use of violence generally.

Their core philosophy seems to effectively align self-defence with 'violence'; although that is defined in most dictionaries as: "An _unjust or unwarranted_ exertion of force or power". Logically, this could worsen legal problems relating to ones use of force but in their mention of 'seeking a balance' the CPS seek to reduce much self-recrimination on the part of a 'defendant' afterwards. One might ask "why the 'Apologist' lecture?"

Firstly, to help you undertake your defensive attitudes in a manner which will result in the least legal hassles after being forced by circumstance to protect your own or someone else's life. Secondly, -and perhaps more importantly-, to force you to think through the whole morality issue beforehand, here's why.

During any attack, your very life may depend on a quick reaction, so hesitation over whether you're doing the right thing or not during this critical moment could prove fatal. An attacker will very likely view your hesitation as a weakness and continue an attack. Encapsulated in the saying "the best defense is attack", by expediting a pre-emptive defense strategy immediately (due to prior thought and consideration), you are far more likely to be fortunate in that your attacker gives up and 'exits stage left'.

Think of it as like having someone repeatedly throwing a shoe at your head, once you've successfully managed to dodge the shoe a few times, your practice renders it much more instinctive and natural to dodge it when it happens spontaneously in real life, just watch George W Bush (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWt3-kPBQ4A) or Hilary Clinton (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gq7pw3Nypk), (not so well).

The thing is, assuming that you're NOT actually a thug or violent criminal, resorting to violence would _NOT_ be your usual methodology but like most people, your life and continued wellbeing holds some very serious value to you. Not normally being acquainted with violence, _the Prospect of receiving or having to use it yourself may render you quite startled!_

Bear in mind that suffering a violent attack is already difficult enough, so having to consider -in a split second- whether to use violence to protect life, you really don't need to be simultaneously undergoing a moral debate with yourself, not even for a heartbeat.

Therefore by thinking things through beforehand, you are less likely to have to resort to the use of potentially deadly force. However if or when you are forced to use it, you'll understand and accept afterward that you exercised your very last option.

# Chapter 18  
POTENTIAL LETHALITY

Essentially, one has to determine very quickly whether you're facing an imminently life-threatening criminal attack; a potentially life threatening attack or a non-lethal attack. It's this difference that should determine the nature of your response.

Of course any confrontation can result in an 'escalation of violence' but answering a mere enquiry for directions with a bullet between the eyes is not considered polite in most circles, nor quite that legal, unless you live in certain parts of downtown Johannesburg....

It may be difficult to know what course of action take when your mind is temporarily _non compos mentis_ (whilst facing an attack) but this is a major reason why you should stay _AWARE_ , and 'switched on'. Your awareness is the only thing that will give you the time to determine what is happening, and save you from making a potentially serious mistake.

The bad news is that -unless you are accompanied- usually only you will actually know _'what's what'_ at the time of the attack **but** you may be expected afterwards to have been able to distinguish between being merely harassed by a beggar or drunk in a car park, being bag-snatched, or under serious bodily threat by a mugger or rapist who may -or may not- also terminate you.

The good news is that armed with _Awareness_ , most of the time it should be fairly obvious.

In addressing another matter, a classic example of simplistic psycho-logic is that once a psychopath has decided to use _the threat of violence_ for criminal purposes, then he should surely also be prepared for having his threat returned, so then have to resort to _actually using violence_.

Since he's probably hyped up, anything that disturbs him or upsets his simple plan may easily result in panic on his part, leading to his use of potentially lethal force, this in turn often resulting in very serious injury to someone, invariably you.

Although it may not have been your attacker's initial intention, events outside of both the victim's and attackers control can easily go wrong. At the commencement of any violent attack, you don't know if, -even despite your total compliance-, the doo-doo hits the proverbial fan for some reason and you wind up hospitalised.

So in effect there is no sure way to ascertain whether a mere threat of violence may end up being an actual lethal attack, until it literally happens. _Any Confrontational Crime Can Result in the Injury Of The Victim._ It may even be that your attacker intends to terminate you anyway, (killing innocent victim's apparently these days becoming a popular gang-initiation rite).

Of course an attacker may be entirely reasonable towards you while you fulfil a planned purpose but sometimes, once his purpose has been fulfilled, a victim may be viewed as a liability. Mostly though, acting reasonably could very well save your life.

There's usually only one person who'll really know what's going down at the time of any attack and that's you, therefore you have to be able to react accordingly. With no support around to guide you at this unfortunate time, instinctive training can be your only friend. It's a lonely world out there, so a person needs to develop all the means of avoidance and discouragement that they can. Being attacked usually results in being a traumatic (and often painful) experience but it needn't necessarily be the end of your world.

You may have noticed that this handbook relates to attacks that result in serious harm or worse, however, in the event of a confrontation that initially appears non-lethal in nature, you should behave calmly. Non-aggressive joking or talking while you walk away asserting to an attacker that you've written the experience down to just that, just an unfortunate experience.

Alternatively, it may be that you feel you are sufficiently competent (and equipped) to inflict sufficient discomfort in order to change an attackers mind. On choosing to use force to disengage yourself however, you must ensure _That Your Assailant Is Sufficiently Harmed Enough to be Completely Incapacitated, ie_ _unable to continue his attack upon you while you escape._ (Zappers, sprays, batons and simple one-shot-dropper street-combat moves (mostly non-lethal), are good for this sort of situation, but more about these recourses later. Always remember that once you have utilised force on another, for whatever (legal) reason, you should report that matter to the authorities in order to exonerate yourself.

You may have read or heard somewhere that you should hit an assailant once and then run away _. This Is Plain Rubbish!_ If you only strike an attacker once, all you may achieve is rendering him angry, possibly psychotic. _This can Easily Escalate a Non-Lethal Confrontation into a Far More Deadly One!_ Of course, if you can strike at someone as well as Bruce Lee or Chuck Norris, such a blow may be enough to incapacitate almost anyone, but then you're probably nowhere near either's capability.

If or when you feel that your only option is to hit someone, only do so if you know that you can seriously hurt them; you have to incapacitate your assailant enough to ensure that he can't immediately follow you when you depart, unless of course you want him following you home for a re-match!

It's really not that simple, is it? Indeed there's no easy solution. This is why it's imperative that you think things through beforehand. The more you think and talk about these situations, the better are your chances of doing the right thing and surviving violence. Besides, thinking about the unthinkable is outstanding motivation to remain _Aware_ , and to _Avoid_ and _Discourage_ violent confrontation.

What this means is that you should be prepared for any criminal assault upon your person and you should enable yourself enough to deal with the situation, whether or not it actually becomes an attack which could end in violence.

With regard to reporting incidents to your local police. Request -if necessary demand- a Crime Admin System (CAS) or Occurrence Book (OB or OR) number, just don't necessarily expect any immediate action. Traditional, hardcopy crime recording systems have been replaced in many countries with computerised systems, although paper dockets are still popular in some places. At this time you should also take note of the investigating officer's and/or the charge office commander's name and service number. This action is recommended because then you are adding to the local knowledge of offences and criminal trends, for which appropriate action can or may be taken.

Sometimes, duty officers at the police station may not want to give you a reference number (because it may make the local crime stats look bad) but they have to _record_ any incident reported in the OB and they have to give you a Crime Reference (CR) or Occurrence Reference (OR) number if you request one. Should a police officer refuse your request, you should lay a complaint ASAP with the officer in command (duty officer) at that station, just not in a confrontational manner. Then later if necessary at Area Office level, also requesting (from 'Area') a crime reference number.

Other reasons for requesting a crime reference number is for possible insurance claim purposes should anything be discovered missing after the event, plus it awards you a documented factual record that someone was targeted for an attack at that location, so should you ever be forced to defend yourself -at that location- in the future, it establishes that location as a 'point of interest' to the authorities. If you have an attorney, keep him informed and give him a copy of your statements for a C/R number. This record stands you in good stead if you should ever have to use (or threaten to use) force to protect yourself or others from a perceived criminal threat.

Reporting criminal incidents denies authorities the excuse that there is no prevalence of violence in the area, especially if you acquire O/B and O/R numbers. If crime isn't reported however, how does anyone know that there is a crime problem developing in a specific area? The nasty thing about crime is that unless it's curtailed, it often worsens and spreads like a virus. A further reason to demand your C/R or O/R number is that a list of C/R numbers can make for a good motivation to be granted a defensive weapon licence.

# Chapter 19  
THE ATTACK

As mentioned, if an attack doesn't appear potentially lethal, invariably a spray or zapper may easily defuse the whole situation, perhaps you'll just knee him in the gonads or just walk/run away. Possibly by now you already carry a weapon of some description suited for just this purpose.

However, should an attack immediately be an obvious potentially deadly threat and no other recourse is apparent, -other than surrendering entirely or running for your life-, the only option left to you lies in Protecting and Defending yourself.

Despite your Fight or Flight response, always try to remain Completely Aware of your environment! Quickly establish how many may be involved in the attack, and roughly where they are positioned.

Once an attack commences, DO NOT focus solely on the perceived immediate threat as there may be accompanying threats coming from other directions, therefore always remain fully aware by being observant of everything around you, especially behind you.

Immediately discard and ignore anything that isn't relevant or useful to defending yourself. If you're carrying things like groceries, shopping, suitcase or additional clothing? - **Drop them** , as they aren't worth your life. Let the dog go; it can either take care of itself or it may provide a distraction/ obstruction for the attacker, -you'll probably track it down after the dust settles, fit a GPS tracker.

Trying to control a pet **will** distract you and may even get you harmed. Be strongly advised that at this time of attack you will be suffering from SNS, (Sympathetic Nervous Syndrome), owing to a massive Adrenaline Overload from the trauma, usually resulting in an increased heart-rate and blood pressure, loss of peripheral vision (tunnel vision), reduced hearing and rapid shallow breath. This is the ancient Fight or Flight response, used by hominids over millions of years to either escape, or fight, to the death if necessary.

Accept that you can't adequately protect yourself from a threat until you establish from where it emanates. While you're looking out for the threat, also look for cover (by actually turning your head to look around, don't just scan, because you've lost your peripheral vision), -ideally for cover from fire. You can't choose adequate cover unless you establish where the threat lies.

While you're doing this, you're grabbing anything vulnerable (the kids, granny, husband or wife), and moving to cover. If you're really good you've already 'trained' your kids, grandma, husband, wife or friend to accept that by the use of established phrases and temperament, they already know trouble is afoot (AKA; its 'in the fan') so they should obey you immediately.

_First, Find and Move to Cover._ If facing a gun threat, this can mean immediately lying down, preferably placing a vehicles engine and body between you and the threat is good. Bullets don't go through engines and they are at least deflected by the main body of a car, especially by way of doors. Boulders and earth banks are also effective; especially if your attacker has to climb to reach you; because a height advantage means you're a) more difficult to see and; b) can more easily kick down hard or throw something at an attacker.

Even if you can't get cover from fire, get cover from view. At least an attacker is less likely to know where you are and find you or shoot at you. _Keep Your Head Down And Don't Move Or Talk._ If you've chosen to be unarmed and defenceless then rather leave your valuables behind scattered in the car in open view.

If your attackers easily find your valuables, and this includes leaving the keys in the car, they may leave you alone and drive off. However you should run and hide, so that hopefully it's too much of a bother to find you, especially if attackers already have their spoils.

It may not always be appropriate for you to visibly draw a firearm if you have one holstered, because the very action of drawing it will attract attention to you. In a best case scenario, if you've maintained your awareness you'll no doubt have discretely drawn it at the first real sign of trouble. But at this stage you should keep it out of sight ready for immediate use.

Is it, (or will it become) appropriate to use your firearm? If it isn't, look around for somewhere to hide it, along with the holster and the spare ammo. People have been killed by their own firearms because they were in a situation where they couldn't use a firearm but kept it on their person (or even just the holster) for criminals to discover. With this in mind, rather choose a holster and a spare ammo pouch that can easily be removed, like a clip-on.

Once an opportunity arises to engage your firearm, keep it in as low a profile as possible until needed, then, if or when you have no alternative but to fire, aim for the high centre of mass of your attacker's torso. This reduces the chance of innocent bystanders being shot by increasing the chance of an actual hit.

Due to adrenalin rush from the trauma, your aim is going to be nowhere near as good as when you practice, so by aiming at the high centre of a target you'll dramatically increase the probability of stopping a BG's attack. High centre is advised because under extreme stress, most people instinctively pull a weapons Point Of Aim (POA) slightly down slightly anyway, not that you'll have much time to aim.

Remember that you're only shooting to stop a lethal threat (the attack), by incapacitating your attacker. You _are not shooting to kill_. [In court afterwards, admitting to shooting with the intent to kill may well lose you your self-defence case.] You are merely shooting to stop him or them from harming or killing you or others; in other words, you have to have clearly perceived an imminent deadly threat to human life.

When possible give a verbal warning. Make it loud so that any potential witnesses can hear, "I'm armed. Go away!" If that doesn't work, and there is still time, repeat the warning but point the firearm at the assailant, shouting "Stop! Go away!" If he continues to be a clear lethal threat to you or others, you may be forced to shoot him. If you have to shoot him, be prepared to shoot more than once in order to stop an attack.

You should only continue shooting an attacker until he or they are no longer a threat to your life or to that of others, **then you must** _STOP_ shooting. (Suitable ammunition ensures that you may be fortunate in only having to shoot an individual once or twice if you hit him 'centre of mass'.)

Bear in mind that you may only use Sufficient Force _, Not Excessive Force,_ in order to defend your own or another's lives _._ Under Law You _May Not_ Shoot once an assailant is either running away or alternatively no longer poses a direct threat to you or someone else's safety by say raising his hands. In some US States however, if you are able to prove conclusively afterwards that you knew beyond any doubt that the person constituted a deadly threat by being allowed to escape, (like in an active shooter scenario) then the 'Competing Harms' doctrine may apply. This is currently a very contentious issue though. Viz;

The Doctrine of Competing Harms is simply this; you are allowed to break the law (in this instance: shoot someone), in the rare circumstances where **following the law** (ie not shooting) **would cause more injury to you or other innocent humans than would breaking it.**

There are three criteria that must be met for this to be an affirmative defense:

Ability. The Person Deemed to be a Threat (The PDT) must visibly possess the ability or power to kill or maim.

Opportunity. The PDT must be capable of immediately employing his power to kill or maim.

Jeopardy. The PDT must be acting in such a manner that a reasonable and prudent person would conclude beyond doubt that his intent is to kill or cripple.

A fourth factor often used is Preclusion. This means is that you must have done everything within your power to have avoided having to use deadly force in the first place, without placing yourself or other innocents in jeopardy.

Trouble invariably happens faster than in many textbook examples. If so, the threat may be so extreme that you are forced to open fire without a verbal warning. You might even have to open fire to enable you and those under your protection to get to cover, this is especially true if you're ambushed, say in a Shopping Mall robbery or Mass Shooting event.

Despite your best efforts at avoidance, you may be subject to a hi-jacking attempt. If you have a firearm, you should always have it readily available. After all, there's no point in having it where you can't retrieve it, so having it readily available awards you that few seconds more time to weigh up a situation and consider your options before having to use it.

If your life is endangered and you feel that your only option is to use a firearm, if you don't have the time or the conditions that allow you to get out of the car, shoot through your car doors or windows (extremely hard on the ears). Maybe there are kids in the car or you can't open the door, do not wind the windows down first as this may be considered by some as pre-meditation so you may end up being charged with murder or attempted murder. If a car window was already open, ensure that this is made very clear in your written statement to the police.

Despite what some 'experts' recommend, warning shots are not always a good idea. Some apologetics, usually very keen to protect violent criminals sometimes appear not so mindful of innocent bystanders being struck by stray bullets. Unless you know exactly where a warning shot is going, and you know that the bullet _Will Stop,_ by or behind whatever you're shooting at (like a lawn, wall or tree), don't shoot, rather shout a warning instead.

By shooting skywards, Newton's Law of Gravity dictates that what goes up will eventually come down, quite possibly on some innocent bystander, thereby perhaps rendering you guilty of at the very least 'Careless, Reckless and/ or Negligent Discharge' once ballistics proves afterwards that the offending bullet was from your barrel.

Also, by firing a warning shot, even if resulting in your attackers running away, you could at the very least be charged with discharging a firearm in a built-up area, then being rendered by a court unfit to possess a firearm. (If you have to fire a warning shot, shoot into a safe target that will absorb –not deflect- the bullet, such as at a soft lawn or flowerbed, ie offering no ricochet or 'bullet-splash'.

Another consideration is that you'll probably not have that much ammunition on you, therefore you'll need all of it to protect you and those under your protection, therefore wasting it is pointless, especially not in a manner that gives your position away.

Given more open, rural environments, the situation will probably be more obvious. You will have come under fire, or you'll be about to come under fire. If you're in a vehicle, drive for cover. (Assuming it wasn't possible to drive right through the ambush or otherwise get away.) Always _Get To Cover First then Return Fire if Possible._

If unarmed, rather leave your Vehicle with Its Keys in, Your Valuables in Plain View and Get to Cover by Crawling Away and Hiding from View.

It's in this sort of (Rural) environment, where a rifle or carbine (small rifle) becomes useful. An attacker in a rural environment could be attacking you or someone else that you can see, from a considerable distance. Most carry handguns are not very effective if your attacker is shooting at you with a long gun from a distance of more than say 50 meters. Remember that due to effects of increased adrenalin in your system, vision and fine motor control is dramatically reduced, so attempting to hit a target at even 20 meters with a sidearm is really not advisable.

Even if not actually striking an assailant (from a rifle or carbine) one is usually able to discourage him or them purely by use of an adequate display of firepower, this in itself to be considered a successful defence.

Within a house, there are likely to be two types of scenario. In a rural area you may find that the house itself comes under fire. Attackers have perhaps made an unsuccessful attempt to enter and decided that they've enough time to fight their way in. Effectively, you're under siege.

First ensure that everyone is in the safety area, that all your security is in place, and then call for help. Any window you're not using should have closed curtains, because attackers can learn a lot from simply looking in, (like whether you're inside or not.)

Never fire through windows or doors 'cowboy fashion'. Discharging aimed shots through a window from within the centre of the room lessens giving your position -in the room- away. That way you also remain in shadow and therefore have some protection. Your attackers won't know from where in the room you're shooting, especially if you move between shots.

Always conserve ammunition. Very few people own 'movie' guns -with 100 round magazines so try and make every shot count; that means aimed shots at known targets only. In most defensive positions you have certain advantages, cover from view and hopefully from fire. Don't waste ammunition, use aimed shots at an established target and wait them out. Often, attackers waste their ammunition and run out. Running out of ammunition before you do usually means they're far more likely to leave.

Never leave ignition keys in parked vehicles, or leave farm machines in a manner that they can be easily started. Consider fitting a hidden immobiliser switch. You don't need to assist assailants by making a battering ram available (with your vehicle) to break a house wall down.

In another household scenario, consider intruders that have already broken into your house.

Unfortunately, the Law, the Prosecution Service, (and apologists), do not appear to accept that people invading your house in the early hours of the morning are fully aware that you're very likely going to be there. Of course you're there, probably in bed. Criminals know that –should you wake- they may quite possibly have to resort to violence to ensure the success of the burglary. If the crime was planned to be just a burglary, they'd break in when no one was home.

You know this, and we know that criminals know this but your actions should be seen at all times afterwards to have been 'reasonable' at the time of the event, ie what would any reasonable person do in your circumstances. Unless you take this attitude from the get go, - and despite the adage that it's better to be judged by twelve jurors than carried by six pallbearers- you're quite possibly going to end up in trouble should the matter end in court.

Given this home invasion scenario, you're quite possibly going to be attacked in your bed so you really should be seen to have acted reasonably by giving your criminal attacker a chance to exit. To many people this may seem unreasonable, unfair and unjust but that's how the Law works and is usually applied, as with the case of Oscar Pistorius.

You have little choice other than to act instinctively and do what you're able to once you find an attacker bending over you in bed. However if you wake up, or are roused by something or someone while intruders are in another part of the house, your first priority if at all possible is to first ensure that everyone is as secure as possible, as well as quickly establish the location of everyone that you know was already inside the house when you retired.

If unarmed, lock yourself away or hide, you may not be discovered at all, if you are however, your intruders may first incapacitate you as a potential threat. Being rendered so vulnerable is rather unpleasant and frightening but not entirely unbearable. Never leave any valuables lying around or leave a safe open in the hope that intruders will lose interest in you and leave, they probably won't.

Bear in mind that most career breakers are presented with two competing priorities; getting in and out as fast as possible but with as much as can be easily carried off, nothing else. Silent alarms becoming ever more popular, this is rapidly becoming the most common –and far safer- strategy for burglars.

Leaving respectable-looking (but fake) jewellery lying around often successfully facilitates the burglar's first and second goals. If asked, grudgingly surrender your safe keys, (that is, keys to the extra safe that you don't have anything valuable in) or be prepared to be harmed. At this time resist the urge to bitch and shout about all the things you will do when you or the police catch them, as the thought of capture usually makes them angry, whereas remaining silent usually renders a breaker nervous. Nervous is good, because nervous wants to leave.

Armed or not, _never Rush Out and Confront Anyone!_ Firstly, being at their 'place of work' they're usually fully prepared and wide-awake, you're not. Secondly they've encountered violent confrontation before, you probably haven't. Thirdly, if you're forced to shoot an intruder, you'll quite possibly be charged with something or other, because 1. "They were only in your house by accident" or 2. "They only wanted to make a phone call" or 3. "You were lying in wait" or some other legal anomaly that allows them to evade punishment as well as lay any blame for their injuries on you. Always bear in mind that _Unless You or Someone Else is Under Direct and Immediate Threat of Serious Harm or Worse, You Should Not Fire at Anyone._

_A._ _Click the link to read a respected Attorney's take on when you may fire in Private Defense, "_When can I fire (http://www.issafrica.org/uploads/CQNO8DUPLESSIS.PDF) _"._

One of the most important points made in article above is that by remaining in your sleeping area, even when you have nowhere else to retreat to, once intruders trespass as far as your fall-back point, especially if they're armed, you might fairly assume that you have no choice other than defending yourself or risk being violently attacked, 'legally' however, you or someone _must actually be under actual threat of attack_. Having said this, given the above circumstance, We know what we personally would do, what you do is your own affair.

To recap, if possible make sure that everyone is safe. Move slowly and quietly. Don't turn on any lights. If you've lived there a while, your brain will have subconsciously mind-mapped the layout of the furniture in your home and trespassers don't have this map. You Do Not want the intruders to know that you're awake because they'll react fast and furiously, to your detriment. Get everyone in a safe place. Check your weaponry; quietly call for back-up like your security company -if you haven't already tripped your _Silent_ panic alarm- and the police (so that the intrusion is a matter of record). Of course if you don't have a security company, Blockwatch or Neighbourhood Support Group like 'Eblockwatch' or 'Nextdoor' and you suffer from an inefficient police force, you may endure a long wait for anyone's actual arrival.

Hopefully your intruders will leave once they have your TV set, cell-phones and laptop. However, if you hear them approach the sleeping area, get ready. Ensure that you have a good view of the room's entrance but that you are difficult to see. Prior to anyone entering the room, loudly advise the intruders to leave and that you're armed. Thus you've issued a warning, if they run away that's fine but if anyone enters the room after being made fully aware of their situation, they may indeed have violent intent, so the rules of Common Law and Constitution entitle you to defend yourself accordingly. Just be absolutely sure you have a clear view of your target before firing, because it may well be cops, security, or a helpful neighbour attending to your problem.

Once you are attacked in your bedroom, there is slim chance that an unknown intruder could have anything other than ill-intent on their mind, even if its only the 'evil intent' to get past you somehow and get away. Thus, you'd be fully justified in protecting the lives of yourself and your family. There's practically no way that even the most aggressive prosecutor will be able to make a charge of murder or attempted murder.

It's entirely possible that the matter wouldn't even get to court if you use your attorney for any statements, although it very well may however go to inquest. In SA , under 'Judges rules', (in the U.S. 'Mirandized'), should a person be considered a suspect or actually arrested, that person has the right to remain silent, but you have that right by law anyway. Given that you are seriously traumatised by the incident, rather make no comment at all except to apologise and say you're too upset to even think straight.

If you don't have a firearm, any improvised weapon such as mock weapon on your wall may be utilised, (an intruder not knowing it's a mock weapon). Telescopic batons, zappers and O C sprays kept in the bedroom are always useful in the event of intruders. However there will be attacks that are not identical to those discussed in this section, so _Think and Apply the Principles required for your Own Specific Circumstance._

*If at all possible, try not using a firearm if you have an alternative means which will serve the purpose. Using a firearm, despite its very well established effectiveness, may cause many more legal and police hassles in this country than using any other potentially lethal means of defence. Examples would be rather driving into a would-be hijacker rather than shooting him, using a blunt instrument like a fire extinguisher, baseball bat or wheel-spanner may of course still result in serious injury or death but at least you won't have shot anyone.* (Sarcasm off).

If you ever are forced to use a firearm to deter or scare away a criminal assailant, be warned that when you report the incident to the police, you're in for a grilling so be prepared for it. It is an incorrect but commonly held belief within the police service in some countries that despite no actual use of a weapon other than having it (or referring to having it), the victim should be charged with 'use' of a firearm, so accordingly the firearm should be confiscated. If nothing else, you may be charged afterwards with being 'unfit to own a firearm' merely because you 'used' a firearm in the defence of yours or someone else's life. At the very least, you may temporarily lose the protection that your weapon afforded you.

Indeed, even when you are the victim, in some locales you may be considered a worse criminal than the actual criminal(s) who attacked you. Besides, a crime has been reported and it's usually quite unlikely that authorities will ever find the real criminal, so with at least you in hand it doesn't look so bad on the record. It's suspected by many that this may be why so many successful firearm defences remain unreported.

# Chapter 20  
FOLLOWING AN ATTACK

Are you going to be censured for protecting your own or someone else's life? Sometimes yes, after all, many people have posited; "Surely its only bad people that find themselves in contact with criminals." This attitude is unlikely to change until there's a change in the Publics perception, to the effect that a victim has a Right to be protected by 'any necessary force' as a defence against illegal violence (as it has been for millennia within many societies). Unfortunately the current apologist-oriented society will quite likely always be out to get you, the victim; because many believe that all life is worth protecting against any attack, even the lives of violent attackers.

It should be understood that you'll have a whole new set of problems once you've successful defended against an illegal violent attack. The State is generally totally indifferent to any individual, unless they believe (rightly or wrongly) that, this particular individual offers some form of threat to it, or society as a whole.

Unfortunately, many individuals within the State apparatus are not entirely unbiased. Being human, like us they are all prejudiced to some degree, many are likely to be completely prejudiced against you or whatever they think you may represent, viewing your prosecution merely as a means of advancement up their own career ladder, furthering their own agenda or cause. ("Nothing personal you understand, just doing my job")

This section is going to attempt to give you some worst-case scenarios that may be inflicted on you, the victim, by the criminal justice system, subsequent to a successful defence. It could happen to you, and you need to be prepared for it. In fact, you could easily be made to feel that certain Sections of the Criminal Procedures Act don't apply to you if you've had to use your own licenced firearm in your own, or someone else's, defence.

One has to be aware of these potential problems before deciding on what defence you choose to be yours under a various situations. So not only may you find yourself defending against a physical attacker, but then you may also find yourself substantiating your defense to the State. Despite the Constitution, _Some Individuals within Your Justice System Often Automatically Consider You Guilty of a Crime, Therefore placing the Onus on You to Prove Your Innocence!_

Many successful 'defenders' often find themselves subjected to verbal innuendo and psychological abuse by a public prosecutor representing the state. In far too many cases an armed attacker is charged with lesser offences than the victim, who in turn is likely be charged with attempted murder for protecting innocent life from a murderous attack. This is obviously not fair and it certainly isn't Justice as many understand it but it is very possibly something that may happen to you to one degree or another. Remember that no attorneys were actually at your 'scene' and a prosecutor's task is simply to prosecute you based on the evidence.

This is why, immediately following an attack that has resulted in the injury or death of anyone, you really _must first Phone for an Ambulance and Only Then Your Attorney and The Police – specifically In That Order!_

An ambulance is required most urgently because not being a medical professional, you're not qualified to know how seriously you've injured someone, or whether they've expired or not. Also, phoning for an ambulance demonstrates that it was not your intent to kill the person who appeared to be a deadly threat; you were merely curtailing a potentially deadly attack.

An Attorney is required because he will remind you not to make a statement or to talk to anyone. Remember, _you are Highly Traumatised So therefore In a State of Shock._ Any badly-trained, unscrupulous or over-ambitious police officer (odds are, you probably won't get a sympathetic cop) and any media around may try to harass you into making a comment. Despite your innocence, you could easily say something given your state of shock which could incriminate you, therefore _Say Absolutely Nothing,_ _as that is your Statutory, Constitutional Right_ _._

If you utter anything at all, keep it to an absolute minimum, commenting that you were attacked, you're traumatised and you'll make a statement later. Once you've calmed down and gotten your head together, you'll write a more comprehensive statement (with your attorney's help), trusting that the Prosecutor will realise your innocence, in that it was a lawful and justifiable defence. However, you must be extremely careful what you say about the incident to anyone and everyone, because ' _anything you Say Will Be Taken down and Used (possibly out of context) against you'_ **.**

Avoid falling into a guilt trip/post-traumatic stress mentality. Despite using avoidance, discouragement and deterrence, your attackers continued their attack; therefore there was obviously _No Other Means Left Open To You_. Given no other recourse, faced with the apparent situation at the time, (hindsight of course awarding both you and a Prosecutor 20/20 vision) you should be seen to have done the 'right thing', that being what any other reasonable person might have done in those circumstances, do not feel guilty, get on with life, you survived.

You should at this time also seriously consider some form of therapy or stress relief. Find someone suitable to _YOUR_ individual needs and psychology as soon as possible once you're no longer under immediate duress. If truly shaken to your core, the first 24 hours are crucial to a rapid recovery.

If you've taken the trouble to find a suitable therapist, you'll be able to get professional help and support when you need it most. Ensure you utilise someone who supports the philosophy and principles of self-defence, just be advised that not all stress managers and trauma counsellors necessarily believe in a self-defense philosophy.

Free trauma counselling is usually provided via your local Police, CPF or Residents Association. At this time, a cleric may not quite be the most helpful or supportive person, especially if he is a conditioned victim himself and doesn't believe in self-protection.

The police are called because you need to establish that you trust and have faith in The Law. Despite popular belief, there are still many really outstanding cops on the force, they're trained to tell you to say nothing until you've seen a lawyer. Being a victim of violence, you're entitled to the many Rights listed in The Victims Charter (South Africa and Northern Ireland Only), all other countries having various Victims' Rights Laws.

Some people posit that you don't have any Rights to prevent an attack; and that your attacker has. Should you be unfortunate enough to get an overambitious, uninformed, ignorant or just plain lazy arresting officer, you'll have to deal with that accordingly.

Any way you slice it, you may very likely be pre-prejudiced against in some way by someone in the chain of command, so remembering that worst-case scenario; be very careful what you say, exercise your 'Right To Remain Silent'.

Should your attacker die as a result of any injuries received while you protected yourself, at the very least there will probably be an inquest. All unnatural deaths usually go to inquest (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inquest). You need to ensure that your lawyer makes it plain to the court that you were protecting your life, or someone else's, from a perceived potentially lethal and iminent attack.

(If you used a firearm: would you have been wrong to use any other weapon to protect yourself? If not, then a firearm is just another means of protection.) Obviously a case cannot be laid against a dead attacker (what would be the point?) but authorities may well open a case on the States behalf against any other -known or unknown- surviving members of the gang, for their involvement.

Whatever happens, an official Crime Admin reference number will be created as a result of you harming, especially shooting, a person who has attacked you. This usually results in an investigation of YOUR actions as well as those of your attackers.

Hopefully an inquest or proper investigation carried out by diligent policemen and state prosecutors will demonstrate that the death of your attacker was in fact justified but unfortunately you cannot rely entirely on this happening, so you should plan for a worst-case scenario.

However, if your defensive actions do not result in the death of your attacker(s), or if there is even a possibility that there is an unknown attacker still out there (like members of the group on the periphery of the attack that escaped, like lookouts, drivers etc), another file needs to be made out (against person or persons unknown) as a matter of course by the investigating officer, (I.O.).

You need to ensure that A Crime Admin reference number has been given For The Attack on your person because you need a formal (official) record that you were subject to a potentially murderous attack; also this will hopefully start the process of an investigation into your attackers but sometimes either you or your attorney may need to make out a complaint to get that CA reference number.

It is a matter of record that some victims of attacks have been convicted of attempted murder because their lawyers did not ensure that there was a paper trail proving that the victim was subject to a lethal attack. In other words, the victim couldn't show in court that he was subject to a potentially lethal attack. You Have Been Warned.

No Crime Admin number means no file exists. No file means that no crime was committed against you. If no crime was committed against you, you were unjustified in shooting, or otherwise threatening and/or harming your attacker, (he wasn't an attacker because there's no reference No.) so, it is YOU who are guilty of attempted murder, understand? You have to have a C.R. number for the attack upon YOUR person to be factual.

To make matters worse, if you don't have a CR number, it makes it easier for you attacker to sue you for injuring him, So ensure that there is a record of an attack on you and get that CR number!

Should you be unfortunate and get a self-seeking conviction-hungry prosecutor in court, (an honest, informed and responsible prosecutor rarely takes a genuine defensive shooting to court), your aim was solely to stop your attacker from killing you or others. You acted merely in order to incapacitate him or them, never opine that you acted with intent to kill.

By admitting an intent of shooting to kill, you obviously face the distinct likelihood of having to answer a charge of murder or attempted murder, in which case a successful prosecution against you means you end up in jail, not passing go and not collecting $200 for a long while.

By admitting that you intended to merely wound, you may also be inadvertently admitting that you didn't consider the threat potentially lethal, so you've now opened the door to the accusation that you used unnecessary force and be declared a threat to society at large. You may be asked "where were you trying to hit him?" So if you didn't hit him there, you're unfit to have a firearm. If you tried to wound him, you were still endangering his life, and he wasn't trying to kill you, because you were only shooting to wound him. If you killed someone by mistake, (because you were only trying to wound him,) you've admitted to culpable homicide.

So when asked as to your intention when actually shooting someone, you are strongly recommended to reply that you acted solely to stop the attacker from killing someone, (either you or another person) i.e. purely in order to stop the attack and enable either you or another to survive, nothing else.

Read yet another SA Attorneys advice on  self defensive gun use (http://www.gunsite.co.za/forums/showthread.php?47106-Self-defence-and-the-use-of-lethal-force-in-effecting-an-arrest) posted recently on a very popular SA Gun forum, although he talks of 'arrest', the same principles apply to citizens arrest as a police arrest.

Keep this in mind, there's really only one person on your side apart from yourself, that's your attorney because he should be versed in the legality of Private Self Defense. You have to plan ahead to do the correct thing because if you don't, you're going to be in for a long, hard, usually expensive slog, so prepare yourself.

A question that springs to mind for any _reasonable man_ in court is: how could you possibly know with any certainty that your attacker had _No Plans to Kill You_ whilst attacking you with lethal force, only you knew for sure what you witnessed first-hand.

Many people find it easier to adopt, become and maintain a conditioned victim mentality, hoping that criminals won't rape, maim or kill them. However when they do, victims or their loved ones may be assured in the knowledge that Liberal apologists will either advise them that it wasn't their fault, or alternatively that it was depending on how they feel that day. They'll also likely tell you that you either did the right thing or that maybe you were asking for whatever happened.

Once you decide to stop living life as a victim-in-waiting, you will come to realise that _YOU_ are probably the best and only person who can defend yourself against criminal violence. Accepting firstly that in many instances you actually _can_ defend yourself is only the beginning; it is certainly not the end of the story.

# Chapter 21  
MEANS OF DEFENSE

So there you are going about your life doing everything you can to reduce the _probability_ of an attack but despite your best efforts you suspect that the unthinkable is about to happen and something's about to go in the fan, a fan pointed in your direction.

Having thought through the whole morality issue and hopefully concluded that it's sometimes necessary to use force, -even potentially lethal force- to protect innocent life, and that it's sometimes your last remaining option to protect or defend a life, just what means do you have available in order exercise that basic Right.

The purpose of any means of defense is primarily to deter and fend off an attack, hopefully without attackers being permitted to harm you or any others in any way. Should deterrence fail, then things escalate to incapacitating an assailant sufficiently enough to prevent harm coming to any person other than the attacker.

Notice that the intention is solely to stop the attack in order to protect innocent people from harm. No mention is made of any intent to cause serious or permanent harm to the criminal. The purpose is merely to ensure that _You_ and other innocents remain alive and preferably uninjured. How can you achieve this? What might you use to protect yourself?

Note that any means of defence can and is also sometimes used offensively by entirely ruthless people. These people can and have included 'freedom fighters', gangsters, terrorists, Special Forces and police services worldwide but just because an item or technique has been used offensively by someone in any of these particular groups, it doesn't mean that because of that, it should be entirely discarded as unsuitable for defensive use by you.

These days a plethora of weapons exist for civilian use in defensive situations. A brief overview of what systems, techniques and equipment that are most commonly available are given below, thankfully, in most countries there are a vast range of choices. Readers are strongly advised to first ascertain the legality of carrying ANY type of weapon on their person within their respective locality, as for example in the UK, almost anything can -and often is- defined as an offensive weapon, even when used in _Private_ _Defense_.

This overview doesn't teach you total competency in using any particular means of defence but it might suggest what might be more suited to your particular needs and abilities. It'll be up to you to do more research, there are many excellent instruction manuals, videos and information booklets (either free or easily available) giving more in-depth coverage relating to any item or method discussed below.

Once you've decided on a particular avenue, you should attend the necessary training courses pertinent to that avenue. You have to learn how to defend yourself, as effective private defense really does not come naturally. Books give you only an idea of what to expect but competence in any defensive tool or tactic should be learnt thoroughly through hands-on practice.

# Chapter 22  
UNARMED COMBAT

Before you start thinking you're a budding Bruce Lee, first consider your bare hands, there are 27 bones in each and most are quite easily broken. So although you may have seen the stunning effect of unarmed combat techniques in TV shows and movies, accept that it actually _takes at least 6 months but usually more than a year to become even a novice Martial Artist._ More importantly however, martial arts are taught as a SPORT, with rules and referees, of course in a real fight there are neither.

For self-defence and survival purposes, 'Reality Based Self Defense' (RBSD) tactics are strongly advised. Learn at least three to five simple techniques and practice them to absolute perfection. You will learn in all courses that successful SD, (whether armed or unarmed), depends heavily on physical and mental preparation. Many police trainers offer free SD training, as do many women's help groups. Google 'RBSD' trainers for your area.

We found two excellent (read: understandable, pragmatic and sincere) British -online- Self Defense trainers are Lee Morrison (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Wsl-N3xeY4) and Russel Stutely's (Heavy Hand (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Cjz7rxnphU)) but the RBSD MMA discipline is growing in popularity very rapidly worldwide; www.multipliedforce.com and http://www.urbancombatives.com and www.win-any-fight.com . We also found, that specifically for Women (http://www.self-defense-mind-body-spirit.com/), the Womans SD Institute be probably the most impressive and comprehensive.

_Beware Of Short Self-Defense Courses!_ If you attend a nice, genteel ladies' self-defence course without the involvement of some nasty (hairy) men, you've quite possibly been subjected to a very nice 'feelgood' exercise but you may also get yourself seriously hurt if you try to use any of the techniques on a real BG. How many violent criminals do you think exist who are as gentle and 'understanding' as the partner _you_ may have had during such a course?

Do you seriously believe that you can defend yourself against one or more "street-smart" vicious thugs with the above? In order to vanquish your attacker and survive, you must first come to terms with your own limitations, grasshopper. Accept that 'normal', civilised people are taught from childhood that 'violence' is a bad thing, and of course it is. In a Self-defence scenario however, you are not using violence, you are applying judicious use of controlled force to overcome violence, that is not violence, that is survival.

If your course is a discussion on how to use improvised weaponry such as pans full of boiling water it's probably OK. If it involves how to stick your ballpoint pen into someone's eye, or how to eviscerate a would-be rapist with your chef's knife, it's probably OK.

If it's a women-only course but there's a really big person present dressed up in a 'Michelin Man' suit that you're allowed to knee in the crotch and kick in the head, then it's probably going to set you up nicely. Should a beginner's course give you the confidence to attend a more dedicated course, perhaps take up a martial art or foster an interest in the use of various weapons, it can be very worthwhile indeed.

If you intend learning how to beat vicious criminals senseless with your bare hands, you have to practice a lot, and up against competent people who will practice the most common vicious attacks on you. Practising for a couple of evenings against a 90 lb. wimp who readily gives in all the time is not going to do you much good I'm afraid.

All things being equal, usually the bigger, heavier and nastier person will win but just don't give up yet! Fortunately, not being built like Rambo or Superwoman doesn't mean that you don't have a chance. The Human animal has developed tools and methods for just this very purpose. Interestingly, the element of surprise can work for you this time.

Just remember that if you do find yourself falling back on pure physical force, with or without a weapon, you should exert every single last ounce of strength in delivering any move or strike. You're not in a playground and this is not a game, anything you do may well end up as your life or someone else's depending on it. Once a stranger has commenced an attack on you, you must retaliate with _EVERYTHING_ you've got; it may be your last or only move so it has to count. Someone sowing the wind with you only deserves to reap a whirlwind, your whirlwind.

# Chapter 23  
EDGED WEAPONS

Edged weapons are precisely that, anything with a cutting edge or blade, namely a sword, spear, knife, tomahawk, cleaver, broken glass or credit card (?!) OK, here's the 'credit card' and other covert ideas (http://www.donrearic.com/covertweapons.html) through recent history. One can slash or stab with these items at very close range but be assured that MOST men invariably wilt on being given a sharp stab or slash to the genital area or throat.

The most commonly found edged-weapon that you're likely to be able to utilise is a knife. All decent kitchens are full of them and all can be quite useful in one way or another. Given the opportunity in potentially confrontational situation, gripping two serrated steak knives in each hand, (one facing up, the other down, handles parallel, all cutting edges facing away), as can be imagined, this aspect presents a formidable threat to someone considering assaulting another. Carefully, go try this in front of a full length mirror and C 4 yourself.

Knives can be as difficult to learn to use properly for self defense as bare hands, unfortunately, when used adeptly, they're messy too. However this is a good thing as even a most determined attacker fears blood loss, as it's an excellent source of DNA afterwards. Expedient use of an edged weapon requires some skill, training and practice. Just as in unarmed combat, there are many styles relating to edged weapons, the most effective 'nine attack lines' are relatively quickly mastered though.

Once involved in a knife fight, expect to get cut. If someone attacks you with a knife, he'll likely be better at it than you. He may be used to the pain and blood of a cut, will you? He may have been involved in a few previous knife fights, have you? Despite the disadvantages, the possession of the correct type of knife can be of considerable benefit. Even a blunt table knife can be cleverly utilised as a pressure stick, (the handle end), or simply by throwing it hard at someone's face.

A hidden knife, succinctly applied at the right moment may inflict sufficient shock to either let you escape, or secure and then apprehend your attacker in a best case scenario. Often the mere presentation or application of a blade to an attacker -who is dependent on his strength and size alone-, may well act as a sufficiently serious deterrent to prevent the attack altogether, just don't count on it though.

Obviously the downside of actual knife fighting is that you need to come into 'up close and personal' contact with your assailant; this is generally not a good thing if you can avoid it because your assailant may be bigger, stronger or nastier and entirely more used to blood and fighting than you, so first go for the deterrent effect. Once he's bleeding, you do at least have his DNA sample at the scene, perhaps even on you. With this in mind, also bear in mind the danger of contracting HIV/AIDS during a knife fight from an exchange of blood.

Unless you collect them, you're unlikely to just discover a sword in the house to defend yourself with. If like many people though you do have one handy (and you're not up against a firearm), you will have a range advantage over a knife, so using a two-handed stance, use all your strength make quick, short alternating diagonal slashes toward the head and advance until the opponent disengages.

Another 'edged' option is a swordstick, although most are not much more than long knives they do award one an extended stabbing reach. Once drawn you also have the scabbard to use as a short staff too, (for poking, jabbing, feinting and blocking)

In case you should end up -or actually decide on- using an edged weapon as a means of defense, and as with any weapon, _Get Some Decent Training._ It's not that expensive and most of the basics are either free online or available at reasonable prices in book or video format, from amongst others Paladin Press (http://www.paladin-press.com/category/Knife_and_sword_Fighting) .

# Chapter 24  
BATONS, STICKS, STAFFS AND CLUBS

Striking weapons do have their uses but as with all the methods previously discussed, you have to _Learn To Use One Effectively_. Although most people are highly unlikely to be carrying a baton (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baton_(law_enforcement)); around with them when attacked, more people than you might think carry small telescopic batons; Kubotans (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kubotan), a Yarawa (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yawara); or even a 'monkey's fist' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey's_fist), (slung shot); Then more recently, the so called 'sap cap' (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WwvolHMdoE) is experiencing a popular comeback, mainly due to its apparent innocuousness, (available on Amazon).

Batons and ton-fa's are usually quite inexpensive and very useful for striking tender parts of the anatomy, which is why many Cops and Security guards have for centuries tended to carry them. In trained, competent hands, batons can be an excellent way of inflicting debilitating pain without causing permanent damage, (referred to as 'less lethal') thereby allowing a Security Officer, a cop or you to take down a single threat, mostly without very serious or permanent injuries being inflicted.

Unless you're a cop or security officer you're probably not going to feel very comfortable carrying a baton in public, also, **Y** _OU_ don't regularly put yourself in harm's way for a living in order to protect someone else's life. Your awareness will have alerted you to potential trouble, and you will avoid the situation by leaving the area, or at least by hiding from view.

Although it's unlikely that you'll want to carry have a baton on your person, it is certainly useful to know how to use one, because things like walking sticks, towel rails and other items that can be found within most houses can be used in a similar manner, and can be handy for subduing persons slightly greater weight and of otherwise greater skill than yourself. Often, merely having a weapon of any kind in your hands can be enough to scare off would-be attackers, as most will probably be burglars simply seeking an exit around you and away.

Fighting Staff's being simply long batons, (6 to 8 feet), accept that most people are even more unlikely to have anything like this lying around the house, -modern broom handles not really qualifying-, so accepting that, lets rather consider effective uses of weapons like the han-bo, a short staff favoured by the Ninja, the Irish Shillelagh, the glorious Indian Salambam (thank you ma'am), the African knobkerrie or something far more likely to be sculling around many houses, in the form of the simple walking stick or cane.

As with any combat, all disciplines of stick-fighting require adequate training to be effective but the application of this particular art is considered by most to be in its own class entirely. Although you may be unlikely to have a full-on staff handy, the lowly walking stick can be extremely effective when used efficiently and knowledgably. As with edged weapon combat, the nine attack lines come into play here, so learn the application of at least some of them very thoroughly.

Ironically perhaps, staffs are generally considered defensive weapons but clubs seem to be considered offensive weapons. They're both made of the same material, and small staff's or batons are the same size and weight as a club but there's more to this than meets the eye, since most cultural traditions in Southern Africa utilise the knobkerrie as a defensive weapon, while the Zulu's, Maori's and other nations have the throwing stick which also has offensive applications. Again, it must be stressed that one needs training in its practical and effective use.

In many countries, any person actually carrying one of these defensive tools can generally do so openly and this offers a distinct advantage as none require licencing, meaning that people generally carry these methods of defense because they're a) easily affordable, b) inoffensive and c) culturally acceptable. As no country in the world to our knowledge has -as yet- banned walking sticks, canes or broom handles, learning their use in a self-defence application is highly recommended.

# Chapter 25  
PEPPER SPRAYS

The most commonly available O/C peppersprays are derived from Oleoresin Capsicum or extract of Habenero peppers. These compounds attack the mucus membranes inducing severe swelling and inflammation, painful irritation in the eyes and considerable difficulty in breathing. The effective range with no wind is 15 ft. (4-5 meters) but 2 to 3 metres is usually much more advisable.

Very few people are immune to the effects of pepper spray and it also works on dogs if attacked by one. A small (lipstick size) canister can be very handy and effective when pulled from a handbag and used at arm's length. The bad news is that when using a fogger spray, you should be aware of the wind direction because you don't want to spray it _then get it back in your own face_ because of the wind. Nor for that matter can you spray in a vehicle or other enclosed space like a small room, as this is simply a way of incapacitating yourself.

Given that you can only use a 'spray' outside with the wind behind you, it is highly recommended that a jet or Gel spray is actually purchased from the vendor, 'foggers' not being advisable. After use, immediately replace your spray and replace it as a matter of course every 18 to 24 months since pressure may leak over time resulting in its possible failure when you when you most need it. Many pepperspray manufacturers make different sizes for different applications.

For a generic guide and comparison chart on pepper spray (http://bestpepperspray.net/), click the link.

Developed quite recently is also the application of peppergas in the form of O/C dust, inside a ball of plastic, delivered by a paintball marker gun. Given that the paintball marker (the 'gun') propels the paintball at a very high speed indeed, thus, the effective range of the pepper gas is claimed to be extended out to 40 meters. Combined or alternated with another type of paintball, the so-called 'skullbreaker' round, all in all this device presents a very effective but non-lethal defense mechanism. Click the link for the South African (http://www.paintballguns.co.za/security-and-self-defence.html) versions.

# Chapter 26  
ELECTRONIC ZAPPERS/ STUN-GUNS AND PRODS

Zappers are small; -'pen' 'cellphone' 'umbrella' and flashlight-type sizes-, hand held devices inflicting _Non-Lethal_ but extremely disabling electric shocks. They discharge a very high voltage; (from 50 thousand to 1 million volts) – very low current (about 8 to 10 milliamps) pulsed-DC electric shock. Applied effectively, a zapper usually incapacitates most assailants because all human physiology works by way of tiny electrical impulses which become intensely overloaded by the zapper.

All zappers crackle and discharge bright blue and white sparks when activated, so often the sound alone intimidates intensely. For many potential attackers, zappers can be intimidating enough to completely deter, which is perhaps why apologists don't like potential victims or security guards having them.

Unfortunately, some clothing, especially when wet, can 'ground' or 'earth' the charge, rendering a discharge on someone quite ineffective. Also, be warned that using a zapper on a modern hi-tech vehicle could easily interfere with its electronics and/or alarm on a permanent basis, costing you dearly in damages. Correctly applied to a person however, (such as to the genitals, below ribcage, upper hip, shoulder and thigh) within two seconds can drop a 100 Kg person to the floor very easily, which is why many Law Enforcement Officers employ them.

Fortunately, as with pepper spray, you don't need to spend weeks learning how to use a zapper, merely read the instructions and Youtube (cattle prod) online for free lessons and tutorials. Zappers are best applied to bare skin but easily penetrate light dry clothing, especially in the areas mentioned above, just bear in mind that you need to be at close quarters.

A higher tech, longer range -but much pricier- version of the zapper is called a Tazer, (propriety term -Taser). These devices fire a pair of tiny metal prods (on wires) up to 30 feet, -long range versions up to 300 ft.- at an assailant. Some even incorporate a laser pointer to assist in targeting. It's usually a one-shot-only device, (but multiple application with the trigger once it's connected) at best two. It's difficult to practice with (good luck finding a guinea pig and don't even think about trying it on your pets), also, its not much use if you're being attacked by more than one BG or by armed attackers -unless you carry a few of them.

Should you be of the opinion that you're not going to be subject to potentially lethal attack or you're not willing to consider a firearm, a nice combo of pepper jet and zapper is a well advised option, the first awarding you the close proximity to permit application of the second. Following the instructions carefully usually ensures they work exceptionally well and are much more easily learned than unarmed combat.

As with sprays and their need for gas pressure, ensure that you have a fully charged zapper as it's not going to work very well if the battery is low. An organised person checks the emergency torch batteries when checking your zapper batteries and/or vice-versa. Here's the  zapper/ flashlight (http://www.amazon.com/Zaplight-Zapper-Flashlight-Extreme-Ready/dp/B005UOIO7C) variety on Amazon.

# Chapter 27  
IMPROVISED DEFENSIVE TOOLS

Most homes and workplaces are usually filled with all kinds of potentially nasty implements that could be utilised to save your life. Look around, see what might be used, consider some examples.

Kitchens have at least two suitably edged weapons; at least one large utility knife and a serrated bread knife, either of which are extremely effective if used properly and lets not forget those steak knives. Venture around discovering other large, pointed, weighty or otherwise potentially dangerous items throughout the house, just in case.

Think on all the aerosols you use; oven cleaners, hairspray, deodorant, air freshener, insecticide and even your handy fire extinguisher are all extremely unpleasant if sprayed into an attacker's face.

Some of the gasses used to pressurise the contents are flammable; spray like this in conjunction with a lighter placed just beneath the jet make a very effective short-range flame-thrower. (About 50 to 90 cm range.) Some even causing an assailant's eyelids to temporarily freeze closed. You'll need to experiment with what you have available, go check now. Don't try them on yourself and practice outside with no breeze.

Any corrosive liquids in the house like a liquid drain cleaner? Or, dousing an assailant with any of a number of flammable fluids like lighter fuel, (cut the nozzle low down) then igniting your unwanted visitor with your flame-thrower, most soon lose interest in you, (and everything else for that matter.)

So go and invest a little time looking around the house and the office. Check out your arsenal, one day in the future it may save your life. Let's not forget the lowly half-brick. Half-bricks being modern equivalent of Man's first weapon, the rock. Half-bricks can also be thrown quite effectively, plus, even if you miss you might break a window and the noise may attract attention from outside.

Volleys of half-bricks can be really effective; demonstrators have been using this technique for hundreds of years. A hundred thousand years ago, hominids found that volleys of stones were effective in driving off their main predator, the sabre toothed cat, so you can rest in the assurance that, "countless trials have proven".

Then there's a baseball or cricket bat if you have a sporting family but even if you don't have any sports people in the fold, added to this range of percussion instruments is sitting right there in your bathroom, the lowly ceramic cistern lid can become very useful when applied forcefully to the head and upper body.

Of course your vehicle has real stopping power. This can be a really effective and powerful weapon to protect yourself and can be used to pin an intruder against a garage door or wall. Use your imagination then test out your theory to see if it works, take care not to harm yourself or any bystanders like the kids, pets or mother-in-law.

# Chapter 28  
FIREARMS

Merely owning, let alone actually using a firearm is a highly contentious issue for many who'd probably never do either but the controversy relating to 'gun control' is not merely about legal civilian gun ownership; (although apologists and hoplophobes can be quite fanatical in their dogma to ban all legal civilian-owned guns even though they can't seem to do much about criminals illegally owning them.)

Firearm ownership is in reality a much deeper philosophical argument. It's about whether people should be conditioned into being a society of victims, or whether they should possess the Right to choose to protect themselves and others from criminal violence, as well as be empowered to also have the means to protect that Right.

Firearms are of course extremely menacing in the wrong hands, more so because of the spectacular and often unrealistic use of them in Films and TV but despite its unfair demonization by many, firearms have a distinct advantage over every other type of close-quarters defense.

Firstly, nothing else is of as much help as a firearm once your assailant is shooting, or about to shoot at you with an illegal firearm. It really doesn't matter who you are or what skills you have; hands, edged weapons, batons, sprays or even zappers aren't much use against an armed criminal or gang.

Secondly, a firearm is the only means of defence which when revealed keeps potential attackers at a distance. Criminals are likely to be meaner, nastier, stronger and more vicious than you. They've chosen you, a victim who they can overcome easily, not the other way around, and they've chosen when to attack. They will win in most hand-to-hand confrontations. A firearm will keep almost anyone at a distance, and will in most cases probably deter them from even starting an attack.

If you're an average sort of person, a firearm really is your _SOLE_ means of awarding balance to a scenario, or at least of giving you an equal chance in an otherwise unfair fight. Any attack is always weighed in favour of the criminal assailant or assailants. They choose the location, the victim, as well as the timing of an attack.

An old Colt Manufacturing advert once claimed that; "God created Man, but Colonel Colt made him equal." Size, weight, strength, nastiness and the fighting skills of most criminals, versus the size, weight, strength and any weaknesses of a victim, (like you), can be rendered irrelevant once an armed defense is selected.

On assuming a good defensive position, by utilising a firearm that you're comfortable, confident and efficient with, and having sufficient ammunition, your safety is far more secure given most situations. This is simply because it's then entirely up to your attacker to decide if he or they wish to press their attack, given your effective potential danger to any attacker.

Let's be absolutely clear on this, Politics aside, a decent firearm is by far the best means of keeping one or more criminal assailants at bay. A handgun is; the only easily learned, readily concealable, quickly deployed and seriously respected weapon of choice for personal self-defence.

Furthermore, a firearm, any firearm, is far more often sufficiently threatening to deter an assailant or assailants from actually pressing an attack once a visibly perceptible capability in its use becomes obvious to an attacker. Indeed, worldwide it is a widely documented fact that considerably more acts of violence are deterred or stopped by a potential victim having a firearm than there are crimes of violence reported to the authorities.

Yet despite the statements that have gone before, a firearm, especially a handgun is actually a rather inefficient means of inflicting trauma. An attacker causes considerably more trauma by way of a blunt or edged weapon on a victim than by using a firearm.

Even when a criminal actually shoots and hits, (which rarely happens most of the time), a bullet isn't necessarily as traumatic as a knife in the stomach, face or throat, or for that matter as painful as club or even ketchup bottle across the back of the head.

A handgun IS however often sufficiently menacing to keep most attackers at bay. If you are well trained, well-practiced, have a firearm on you, aware of your environment at the time of the attack and appear fully prepared to use it, an attack will probably be deterred by its mere presence.

If deterrence doesn't work and the criminal continues his attack, you should be able to incapacitate him, using your firearm from a reasonable -i.e. safe- distance, thereby hopefully stopping an attack altogether.

When handguns (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Handgun) were first devised over 650 years ago, they were not designed as offensive weapons, from inception they were for close range **defense** , so accept that whatever you've learnt from media or movies is (more especially now), highly dramatised.

Despite the fact that most Liberal apologists learn almost everything (that they know) about firearms from the movies, scripts are usually the product of a writers' vivid -but very often scant- knowledge of them, movies are designed to be spectacular, mostly hyped-up picture-stories.

The most common modern handguns are revolvers and semi-auto pistols, both having pros and cons. Always take a training course which teaches use of both types of weapon _Before Deciding Which Type Suits You._ Ask around in suitable circles, peruse a few firearm magazines online, (Google any magazine with the words handgun or handgunner), to make an informed decision.

_Do Not Make any Decision Before Completing a full SD Handgun Course_. Visit your local range and ask some regular club shooters for free help and advice on your first Self Defense (SD) weapon, (just not while they're actually shooting.) You'll usually find that many club members are willing to assist you.

Although you may decide that given your particular lifestyle a firearm is inappropriate to your specific needs or circumstance, just make that decision after you've completed a firearm course; _Rather Make An Informed Decision, than a purely Emotional one._

On deciding to acquire a defensive handgun, make sure that it is of a reliable make, and which _YOU_ can easily handle and control. Ensure that you buy one that uses ammunition that's readily available, irrespective of where you are in the country, ie a standard, common calibre.

'Exotic' calibres may be fabulous but if you can't buy ammo, you'll end up with an expensive paperweight on your hands. If your local counter-hand opines "Sure we can always get it," assume it may end up chancy to acquire, if however the comment is, "you can buy this ammo anywhere," it's probably OK, just check with other firearm owners.

Ensure that you acquire a firearm in a calibre with which you are comfortable shooting. Again, -despite what's on TV-, all firearms have recoil to some degree but you shouldn't be scared silly when shooting yours, or be rendered wary or pre-emptive of your recoil. You should also be able to carry out various 'stoppage clearances' plus other routines like reloading, easily, naturally and instinctively; if you can't perform these functions, don't acquire that type of handgun; rather consider an alternative.

Carrying your handgun concealed comfortably on your person is very important; it should be easy to wear and suited to your dress code and lifestyle. If you're not entirely comfortable carrying your firearm, you probably won't have it on you when the attack occurs, giving credence to the saying; 'the best defensive weapon ever designed, is the one you have on you when you need it'.

Even having a firearm on you when an attack occurs, you may end up benefitting your assailant by spending an inordinate amount of time and effort drawing weapon, possibly finding yourself flustered or even worse, being overcome by your assailant, thereby perhaps awarding an attacker a weapon which may end up being used against you, although this is not a common occurrence.

Acquire a handgun/ bullet combination which YOU feel comfortable with and which _You_ feel are comfortable carrying. Never let someone else bulldoze you into a decision on a firearm. _You Choose!_

On opting to carry a licenced handgun for self defense, rather carry it in a properly concealed manner, this ensures that no one is aware that you're armed. If attackers don't know you're armed, you choose if and when to use it or not, as appropriate. Besides, it's considered by many to be bad manners, to some people even offensive to display a firearm openly, unless the bearer is in uniform.

Given a more rural environment, you may need a more effective weapon than a handgun. Most people consider a shotgun as their first option in this case. They're arguably the most adaptable of all types of firearm. Shotguns can shoot light or heavy loads, i.e. multiple shot as well as solid slugs. However, they require considerable training and practice to use effectively. Again, _Attend An Accredited Course Before Deciding._

Despite popular mythology, _Shotguns Are Quite Precise Weapons When Using at Ranges Up To 10 Meters. They are Not 'Instant Death-ray' Weapons._ Shotguns should always be aimed From the Shoulder _Irrespective Of The Range,_ because on exiting the barrel, multiple-shot rounds generally expand only one inch per meter travelled, so even at five meters, (15 ft.), it still requires correct 'placement'.

Shotguns kick like a mule when using most SD loads (LG and SG). You'll discover what these rounds kick like when talking to knowledgeable people. Try using a friend's shotgun first, especially using different types of ammunition before you buy one, or even before considering one.

Aside from most people's difficulty in actually using a shotgun properly, it is commonly accepted that merely the very sound of racking the action of a pump-action can be a very good attention-getter and fight-stopper. The effect of shooting a shotgun at night can also be quite awe-inspiring with its impressive muzzle-flash. These two factors alone tend to cause most would-be assailants to quickly reconsider any attack. Overall, shotguns are considered by many people to be truly effective deterrents once their considerable recoil is mastered.

Given the above, many people find that a carbine (shorter-barrelled rifle) is rather more to their liking, carbines being often designed for revolver ammunition thereby making it a useful companion to someone's SD armoury. A light carbine using revolver ammunition can be quite effective and accurate up to as much as 150 meters. It has very little apparent recoil and is relatively easy to master.

Carbines are also very effective on vermin, for which it will most likely to be used. Carbines using long rifle ammunition however can be expected to recoil quite heavily. A light, lever-action carbine using handgun ammunition may be your best option if you have a small frame or arthritis, or if you haven't undergone any military or para-military training.

If you hunt or are a target shooter, a rifle may be slower to use than a carbine but it has the range to equal almost any military or police weapon. Using such a rifle proficiently means it should be adequate enough to tackle small gangs of attackers, even if they are armed with stolen military weaponry.

No specific mention has been made of semi-automatic shoulder fired weaponry. This is because most people are unlikely to get a licence for one in South Africa. This is unfortunate because semi-automatic carbines are probably the most effective means of household defense, especially in rural areas, yet they can be too heavy and bulky to carry around. Furthermore, semi-automatic carbines are really not nearly as effective as fully automatic AK's or most modern assault rifles if used offensively.

Like many countries, in South Africa, a non-dedicated 'hunting, sporting or collecting' applicant really needs to practically have a motivation from the Gods and have also attended a serious training course to have even the slightest chance of getting a licence for a full bore rifle or carbine.

Most successful applicants usually live in rural areas and submit to authorities several Crime stat reference numbers for their area, proving attacks in that location on more than one occasion.

Given the above, at this point one shouldn't discount the humble .22 rifle. Many small-framed people, even children have managed to stop potentially murderous intrusions with a .22. Apart from its size, it has a serious advantage over all the other types of firearms listed; ammunition usually being dirt cheap, it's really inexpensive to practice with, thereby offering relatively quick competence in handling and accuracy.

Always take a proper course for each type of firearm which you either have or intend having. Practice regularly and keep your firearms clean and in good order. When you no longer like a particular firearm, change it for one that you're confident using and ensure you carry suitable commercial self-defense ammunition for the firearm when you're carrying it for that purpose.

Ammunition is a wide subject all in itself. Ammunition designed for practice may not be also suitable for self-protection but may be used in a pinch. You should also check that the firearm has the design capability to handle your chosen self-defense ammunition.

There are many people who have been conditioned into believing that 'guns' are inherently dangerous in themselves, these very same people are often quite prepared to believe that a poorly maintained vehicle, or a tired/ incompetent driver can still be inherently safe.

At best these people have been led to believe that an armed person is an accident waiting to happen, or that an armed person is going to shoot the first person that disagrees with his views of the most recent football game. Most people don't enjoy the benefit (?) of military or police training.

Women are usually not required or encouraged to undergo military training. This influential and significant sector of society are therefore not educated and/or experienced in the real truth of firearm matters.

Persons who have experienced a military or similar upbringing know that it is normal to go for a whole lifetime, carrying a 'gun' without accidentally or wrongfully causing death or injury to someone else. It is therefore generally accepted that training, familiarity and a responsible attitude makes the owner of a firearm more safety conscious.

Most ex-military and similarly trained people are often conversant in handling firearms safely. Members of the public that are unused to 'guns' -apart from what they've seen on TV and movies- often don't realise that the vast majority of legal firearm owners generally _DO_ act in a safe manner.

Unfortunately the mere fact that weapons are occasionally handled with others present is enough to worry ill-informed and concerned people, quickly bringing to mind horror stories that apologists and anti-gun people are dedicated to embellishing and promoting.

Indeed, in our opinion the mere sight of a 'civilian' firearm is very often reason enough to re-enforce fears of misuse of 'guns' when firearms are too easily visible -and potentially available- to potential victims.

When one takes the time to inform these people in a sensible, logical and gentle manner about the advantages to society of potential victims being armed (Empirical data worldwide proving that increased ownership of legal firearms causes an overall decrease in confrontational violence).

Most generally accept the overall argument but usually demonstrate a strong -and to some extent valid- concern that protective firearm owners will not be trained nor know when and how to use their firearms. These are not petty concerns.

These concerns are also expressed in the fear of armed persons imbibing alcohol, of being armed while somehow under the influence in the public domain. Always bear in mind that _Guns and Mind Altering Substances Never Belong Together._

If ever you're armed in a public place, you should ensure that your firearm remains properly concealed at all times. When discussing various aspects of a firearm, be discreet. If you ever do show your firearm to someone else, (not recommended) ensure that you do so discreetly and keep it holstered. Never actually handle a firearm in a public place as in most districts it is strictly illegal. Out of sight is out of mind.

Unless on a range and actually standing at a firing point, a firearm should never be handled openly when in company; owners are encouraged to be very discreet. By ensuring that the ownership of your firearm is kept in a low profile, handling and carrying is kept discreet, and by not adopting an aggressive manner (when carrying), you're demonstrating that _YOU_ personally are not an irresponsible owner.

Only by gun owners acting discreetly and with obvious responsibility, are uninformed people likely to accept that legal firearm owners do not necessarily result in violent thugs. Following this philosophy makes it far more difficult for anti-firearm bigots to spread the false propaganda that there is little difference between law-abiding firearm owners and armed criminals. In closing on firearms, if you do acquire one, commit to memory the gun-owners ten commandments, here they are courtesy of the NRA (http://training.nra.org/nra-gun-safety-rules.aspx)

And in case you're not net-enabled, the top five are: 1. Always keep your gun pointed in a safe direction. 2. Always keep your finger off the trigger until you're ready to shoot. 3. Always keep your gun unloaded until you're ready to use it. 4. Always clearly identify your target, and whatever lies beyond it. 5. Get to know how to handle your gun competently and safely.

It may be opportune to mention so-called bulletproof vests, (BPV's) although due to various types of projectile, it's inaccurate to refer to any particular product as bullet 'proof' because this implies it will protect against any and all threats. Instead, the term 'bullet resistant' is generally preferred.

Being usually heavy and uncomfortable, you won't want to wear one unless you really have to but many modern BPV's, utilising high-tech manufacturing methods, although considerably expensive, can be quite light, discreet and comfortable.

Vests offer varying levels of protection, Level 3 with ceramic plates are the minimum requirement to stop anything up to smaller calibre rifles, say 7.62 mm. Police and Security usually assume there's no point in just having protection against a pistol as these days many armed BG's use rifles purely for this reason.

Keep it in the safe area of the house, or wear it when you are doing your various convoy duties, as discussed in Parts II and IV. Don't leave it the boot of your car; you won't be able to get it if the house comes under attack, and you won't get it if your car is ambushed, you'll be too busy moving to cover. If it's in the boot, it'll be a wasted investment that will give you a false sense of security, and so lowers your level of awareness.

For further info on modern BP vests (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulletproof_vest#Recent_years), plus the various grades or levels of protection, click the link.

# Chapter 29  
ARMED GUARDS, BODYGUARDS AND OTHERS

Another valuable means of defence is by means of a proxy. That is by employing other people to ensure that you are protected. Just for the hypocrites: anybody using potentially lethal proxy force to protect themselves is morally just as culpable as a person who uses that force or weapon themselves.

Accept that anyone prepared to pay someone else to use potentially lethal force in their name to protect or save their own life or property, (i.e. armed guards, armed response, bodyguards or the police), are de facto pro-gun, because these types of 'protectors' invariably use firearms to protect their clients and their own wellbeing.

Although it may not be convenient for the clients to own and have a personal means of defense, they should not be hypocritical in trying to deny other people the Right to protect their own lives personally. Few ordinary people are wealthy enough to employ other people to carry their guns for them.

The primary reason for using armed guards like bodyguards and reaction personnel is because in theory they should be better equipped and trained than their clients. Also, if there is an incident, they're being paid to deal with any 'legality's' of an incident, thereby hopefully removing the client from the equation. Morally of course, hirers of such people are just as culpable as the person who defends him or herself personally, they're just contracting someone to do the 'dirty work'.

One being relatively static, the other quite mobile, armed guards and bodyguards are not the same thing. Many armed guards in South Africa are often relatively poorly trained and poorly paid individuals who are there simply to discourage armed entry. If a serious incident occurs, the best hope is that people such as this will get off a few shots hopefully without hitting innocents or getting themselves attacked or injured in the process, thereby giving others a warning.

A 'bodyguard' can also be a number of individuals (individually called bodyguards), who should be very highly trained. A minimum of three individuals is generally considered adequate by security companies for any degree of all round effectiveness. As a team cannot function efficiently for more than an eight hour shift, a total of ten individuals are required to cover any 24-hour period, (the 10th man being co-ordinator.) Peerhaps now, it becomes obvious why bodyguards are so expensive, and why an armed guard is a very different proposition to a bodyguard.

Unfortunately, most ordinary individuals not being wealthy, they're unlikely to be able to afford either a bodyguard or even an armed guard. However, most can generally afford some form of armed response. This may be from a security company, or by way of inter-dependant grouping if in a rural area.

# Chapter 30  
STILL CONDITIONED?

Well now you have the basics; certainly enough to consider the previously unthinkable and how you're going to at least approach the handling of another option to running praying or begging. It's up to you to do the necessary research and training to develop the skills and acquire the means that are appropriate to you, your lifestyle and the legality of any situation.

Try not to condemn someone else because their choices may differ from yours, accept that most other people have a different lifestyle and morality to you. You have no right to judge or condemn, unless their actions cause endangerment to you and yours.

Its an established fact that every person who makes preparations to protect themselves and their loved ones, indirectly also protects someone else. If an assailant is made to re-assess his attitude towards the prepared person, perhaps he will reconsider an attack upon a person whom he is not sure about. Armed and prepared women for example cause considerable reconsideration amongst rapists and other violent criminals who prey primarily on women.

Studying the so called time of the 'Wild Wild West' (http://libertarianstandard.com/2010/04/07/how-wild-was-the-wild-west-in-fact/), (apparently **not** that wild) it becomes apparent that once sufficient people become prepared and equipped to protect and defend themselves from violence, confrontational criminals generally come around to reconsidering using violence as a means to an end. Obviously it becomes a lot safer for everyone if criminals become entirely non-confrontational due to their inherent risk of capture, injury or demise.

It goes almost without saying that although it's profoundly annoying to come home and find your house burgled, it is also a given that it's so much better than being physically attacked when you get home or whilst actually there. Let's hope that one day the Criminal Justice System accepts that confrontational criminals themselves choose their violent path, their victims don't.

Should the scales of justice swing back in favour of the victim (not denying criminals -especially non-confrontational ones- any basic human Rights,), the amount of violent crime should drop dramatically, to the overall benefit of society everywhere.

Unfortunately, apologists are very unlikely to accept either the morality of the superiority of victim's Rights, or any objective, scientific analysis of facts, after all, when did goods honest facts ever destroy a perfectly good ideological fallacy.

This desire by the apologist sector to bias data sets, massage figures, misrepresent facts and otherwise economise on the truth has much to do with the psychology of victimization. Unlike more well-adjusted people, who usually try to ensure that they won't succumb again, many desultory victims resort to rendering everyone else around them a potential victim.

Once everyone is rendered a potential victim, no one is able to protect themselves therefore there's no point in trying, so it then becomes everyone's fault that they're attacked. This is a tautological (circular) argument; if they won't defend themselves, nor should anybody else, because they mustn't protect themselves; they can't, therefore there's no point, so they won't protect themselves; nor should anybody else. Ironically, people who are doubtful of this dogma end up dogmatising this false logic simply because it's easier than becoming prepared and willing to protect themselves.

Most apologists seem to believe that the only people who should be allowed to protect them are solely the authorities (who for obvious reasons usually aren't around when the attack occurs.) This has led to some countries, like the UK, ending up in the situation where it has become illegal to protect yourself by any means other than by way of the authorities. This had led in turn to most of British society becoming defeatist, as well as becoming one of the most confrontationally violent societies in Europe, because the law dictates that no one there can ever be blamed for _NOT_ protecting themselves or their loved-ones, as it's widely become accepted that self-defense is 'anti-social'.

So once you accept the responsibility of protecting yourself and others, you're ipso facto ensuring that apologists feel guilty that they do little or nothing to protect themselves or their dependants. You are highlighting _their_ abdication of responsibility and inherent laziness, _Their_ fear and _Their_ self-delusion; therefore they will despise, fear and denigrate you simply because you represent a threat to their own misguided ideology, their faith, -or lack thereof- in themselves.

Assuming you've read up to this point and haven't yet puked or ripped the book to shreds in anger or guilt, it may indicate that you've started to overcome your own conditioning and you've perhaps started to realise that you are able to –and should- protect yourself. Once you've adsorbed and accepted the general principles outlined herein, you're what we call a 'protectist'.

A protectist is the antithesis -or opposite- of an apologist or defeatist. A protectist is someone who takes responsibility for their own protection and feels an obligation to protect others less strong, willing or able than themselves from violence, by way of whatever means deemed suitable to their own lifestyle comes to hand.

Sadly perhaps, you're either a defeatist/ apologist or a protectist, there's scant middle ground. There's a fundamental difference in philosophy: accepting responsibility for your own wellbeing makes you a protectist; willingly abdicating that responsibility to others and finding countless excuses for so doing, renders you an apologist, you choose.

# Chapter 31  
A.D.D. IN SUMMARY

_Avoid_ violent confrontation; achieved by way of being more _aware_ of your environment and surroundings, by keeping away from, or hiding from trouble. If avoidance is not possible, _Discourage_ trouble, by making it appear too worthless, difficult or dangerous for an attack to be considered worthwhile.

Should neither strategy prove effective, _Defending_ yourself by being prepared for either lethal or non-lethal criminal attack. Initially try to deter the attack but if an attack persists, by using whatever force is necessary to protect innocent life. Your intention always is to deter, then incapacitate an assailant, thereby curtailing an attack upon your person or another.

If forced by circumstance to use a firearm, afterwards first call for medical help thereby confirming your primary consideration is for anyone injured. Confer with an attorney (to remind yourself not to make a statement without him being present), and don't say anything other than that you were _Protecting Your Life from Murderous Intent_. Then call the Police. Bear in mind that these days, **all** phone calls are recorded somewhere other than your own phone.

_Avoidance, Discouragement_ and _Defence_. The first aspect being the most important.

PART FOUR - INTERDEPENDENT PRESERVATION

# Chapter 32  
VIRES IN NUMERIS – STRENGTH IN NUMBERS

Many aspects of crime deterrence are greatly enhanced by networking with others nearby. Generally, such aspects relate not just to the likely reaction of 'the group' towards a threat upon an individual but by visibly and openly presenting the presence of a mutual support group within a 'community' it usually strengthens all individual aspects of _A D D,_ individuals becoming much more effective in a group strategy.

Group or community preservation relies on inter-dependence. This is especially true in isolated areas where neighbours are the only people located in a close enough position to support you quickly simply because of their proximity. Many rural places have scant or no policing authorities on a permanent basis.

Representatives of the authorities usually turn up and decide what action is best advised, whether acting with ignorance and ineptitude, or knowledge and insight, but they usually soon leave to return to the relative comfort of their station. Despite any help, advice, show of force or promise of action from these people, you'll still eventually be left on your own to sort out any mess.

Therefore you should mutually support each other. Just as avoiding trouble is not a South African thing, mutual support often isn't either. However, protectists have to learn to work together, and to honestly participate in communal security activities. Organised groups should learn to cooperate without letting the organisation and agreements relating to this mutual strategy collapse into petty -or party- Politics.

South Africans have a long history of blindly following a person, then for some reason rejecting that person to follow someone else. _Mutual Support Is Decision-Making By Mutual Consent._ Everyone has a say and any solution should be agreeable to all, (or most). Then _You Should Stick To That Decision._

Should there be a problem, the group analyses the problem, adapts it to reality then resolves it. Just because a problem exists it does not mean that an entire concept is wrong; it often just means that there's a glitch that should be sorted. If there needs to be a leader, chairman, controller or supervisor, (the name is irrelevant) then the person most capable fixes it, not the guy with the best Political manner.

In other words, all major decisions should be resolved by referendum _(i.e. Everyone Votes). The Purpose Of An Elected Official Is To Enact Mutually Agreed Decisions._ This discussion is perhaps the only politically correct aspect of this handbook. The principles discussed above are the historical basis of all democratic systems, and few can argue with the correctness of that; not even apologists. "Power to the People!" that means _You_.

Given no mutual agreement, everyone will do their own thing resulting in reversion to the prior situation, splendid isolation.

# Chapter 33  
RURAL ALARM REACTION

In Part II we briefly mentioned rural reaction groups in isolated areas; homeowners whose alarms signals were received by other householders/ farms in the immediate area. Given no nearby armed reaction company, the police taking too long to arrive or maybe not even turning up, its suggested that you consider organising a 'reaction force' within the community.

Firstly, all 'protectists' in the area need to 'meet' (either physically or online) and agree on the need for a form of semi-official reaction grouping. First either source a sponsor or pool resources for equipment, then seek _Official Sanction._

Any agricultural Union that doesn't bend over backwards to offend official doctrine but rather fights tooth and nail for its membership is a good start. In conjunction with your sponsor, inform local police of your needs and intention to resolve those needs.

The reason this has to be done is because as a protectist group, you will then not be viewed as a gang of vigilante's. The 'organisation' needs to come under the auspices of a 'Farm Watch' or something equally legitimate.

Once official sanction is acquired, reaction team operational procedures should be developed. Teams should seek adequate response training from either police or local militia groups and practice that training regularly. Each group of farms or households are the responsibility of a particular team. Each team should visit each farm or household in their designated area to study the terrain and approaches. Google Earth is your friend. Each potential target should have at least two Rendezvous (RV) points; or reaction teams may be injured or worse if they just arrive at a location already overrun by attackers.

Also in Part II, protecting vehicles and the use of NVA's was mentioned. Responding at night in homemade protected vehicles using NVA's may not be comfortable but it is considerably more effective and practical. Unfortunately, people have sometimes been injured on their way to help a friend or neighbour by driving into a hail of gunfire. _So When Responding, Do So Effectively, In A Coordinated Manner That Doesn't Get Anyone Harmed And Actually Does achieve the Rescue of Those Under Threat._

One thing that is highly recommended is that at least one member of the team is a police reservist, a trained reaction officer or an ex-police veteran. He may need to get forms signed allowing him to use his own weapons and ammunition. It's unlikely that he'll be able to go to the local station to sign on and draw a firearm. Ensure that part of the reaction drill involves him phoning in to sign on. The reason that you're doing this is because there is no local Police Station!

If there is no reservist in your team, you'll still need to inform the cops that you're reacting to an alarm. This way you're part of an official action if the crap hits the fan. It would be a really good idea to find an advocate who specialises in police Law to get him to establish a way to ensure that any reaction effort is an official action, or at least semi-official.

On being informed of an alarm, either through the alarm system or indirectly by other means, it may be necessary for those team members who don't have protected vehicles to meet at a secondary RV to get into one of the team's protected vehicles, prior to all the protected vehicles of the team meeting at the target RV. Members of the team will undoubtedly be responding from different directions.

Remember to display some form of very obvious team identity. You don't want to shoot at each other by mistake, nor do you want members of the attacked household to shoot at you either. (Of course being shot at by the criminals is considered par for the course)

It's a good idea if identity symbols are stitched to any bullet resistant vests as most displays of organised teamwork usually invites the respect of local law enforcement too, as they also operate in teams. Do try to avoid para-military garb as it may give the wrong impression entirely.

# Chapter 34  
NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH (NBW)

NeighBourhood Watches (NBW's) are pro-active means by which the public aid the police to ideally prevent, -but in reality; reduce- crime within a given locality. The purpose of a neighbourhood watch is to discourage crime in a specified area by acting as either overt or covert eyes and ears within a designated local area for the police. Police are often dependent on specialised information from the public in the overall battle against crime but it should be stressed that members of a neighbourhood watch are _NOT_ encouraged to intervene personally unless directly attacked.

Unfortunately, some neighbourhood watches develop bad reputations because of Rambo types of the more extreme variety, who become involved in, and occasionally embarrass what is for the most part an excellent organ of society. Neighbourhood watches, usually comprising of mostly of well-meaning volunteers, are _NEVER_ a substitute for the police or security companies, they are however usually an excellent complement to any neighbourhood crime-prevention strategy overall.

In many rural or isolated areas there is no alternative to protectists providing their own armed response because there's no-one else nearby enough to do it timeously, and there's less likelihood of innocent bystanders getting hurt but in a suburban area, residents usually enjoy the services of security companies and police.

Police and armed response personnel are trained and insured to do their jobs. Are you insured if you have to defend yourself in court as a result of interceding in a confrontational crime or other incidents? Does your Life or Medical insurance cover you for the increased risk of Active Community Service, rather find out.

Members of neighbourhood watches have no more legal powers than any other member of the public, more importantly however they're often not trained nor adequately equipped nor prepared to perform the function of beat cops or armed response. Most people don't really want well-meaning (but untrained) volunteers, sometimes with delusions of grandeur or hidden agendas, attempting to perform a professional function.

The core concept of NBW is well intentioned, good natured citizens observing, sometimes patrolling their own neighbourhood to ensure a more visible crime-preventive presence. Sometimes though, an overzealous member may have no idea of the Law; it's application, their powers, or the Rights of the people who they might -inadvertently or otherwise- harass. Unfortunately, public perception of the media frenzy over the odd rare embarrassment vastly skews their overall sterling performance and positive influence on crime-prevention.

Despite the danger of potentially encouraging vigilante-style people, is it worth having a neighbourhood watch? The answer is a resounding _YES._ NBW's always enhance community safety, because if nothing else, criminals don't like being observed. In South Africa there are an estimated 75,000 neighbourhood watch units, they can't all be wrong. Although not performing actual duties, 75,000 more sets of eyes in the street more than doubles those of the police on actual active duty at any given time.

To be of any real effectiveness, a Neighbourhood Watch needs to be co-ordinated with the police, and also within its own membership, otherwise you're wasting everybody's time in generating a false sense of security, fortunately, with services like WhatsApp, SMS and IM, as well as millions more online via smartphones, communication is far easier these days than the time of solely 2-way radios.

NBW's purpose is to help the police to discourage crime within a specified, demarcated area. An optimal area being about 20 - 30 streets, or about 100 to 300 houses, it should be an area that takes no more than 20 to 30 minutes to patrol.

NBW's effectiveness is best achieved by providing criminal intelligence, both passively and actively to both police and security companies. As mentioned earlier, police and security cannot function effectively without up-to-date knowledge. The activities of a properly organised NeighBourhood Watch usually has a dramatic result in reducing crime and improving local arrest and conviction rates.

The downside is that neighbourhood watches are entirely voluntary so unpaid, rendering it a labour of love. If you join one, you'll lose a little sleep, use your own petrol and vehicle occasionally, often -but not always- with scant recognition from your friends and neighbours. You usually end up by buying a lot of other equipment that you perhaps normally wouldn't, (unless you're an avid TEOTWAWKI-prepper (http://preppercentral.com/?tag=teotwawki)), like torches, radios and bullet resistant vests, then there's that nagging matter of your insurance cover and possible court appearances as a witness.

Any effective neighbourhood watch should have at least one person within the group who acts as an information co-ordinator. This person receives information from the community and members of the neighbourhood watch then disseminates it amongst the rest of the Watch and forwards it to the police and security firms.

In normal circumstances, police keep the neighbourhood watch informed and the co-ordinator _MUST_ pass relevant information back to the Watch and the community. Bear in mind that the Police's Security Forum deals with (and shares) information gathered by the security companies; and you should be fully entitled to also liaise with it directly or via the station via a website, blog or BB.

People previously involved in office administration (current or retired) are ideal information co-ordinators because information needs to be cross-referenced and mapped. NeighBourhood Watch is not just about patrols.

There needs to be regular interaction between the information co-ordinator and the crime intelligence rep' at the local police station or online. There is also a need for meetings between adjacent information co-ordinators, in order that information passes both horizontally and vertically.

Another person should be entrusted with organising planning rosters and patrol routes. An effective neighbourhood watch should have a group whose purpose it is to recruit new members and to generate fundraisers for buying quality equipment like decent 2-way radio's (the only 'real' instant messenger), NBW jackets or bibs, magnetic stickers, velcro NBW badges and handcuffs. Nothing says 'crime-prevention' louder than cuffs on your belt, cuffs send a very important signal to would-be criminals as well as Law-Enforcement and Security Officers.

Patrols are often carried out most effectively between 2300 hrs and 0500 hrs, a six hour shift split into two three hour stints means not much sleep is lost doing any one shift, so duties shouldn't impact on peoples day jobs that much. Local conditions will vary, so choose times appropriate to your situation. Totally random patrols are the most effective option, however your crime prevention officer will be able to give you statistics that indicate the most useful times and hot spots for patrolling.

Not being beat cops, you shouldn't walk around on foot, patrol in a vehicle with a recommended minimum crew of two. Vehicles should be clearly marked as a Neighbourhood Watch vehicle (magnetic stickers). In informal settlements and some townships, the terrain may require foot, quad bike or mountain bike patrols, just take care and in these locations rather patrol in bigger groups than just two patrollers.

As a patroller, your job is to stay in your vehicle whenever possible, record and report incidents. Remember that you're not trained or empowered to deal with crimes, you're acting as essential eyes and ears. The best outcome is to witness either an incident or by your very presence inhibit one. Most cell phones these days have a camera with flash, often a video recorder for close range work. You should have your own pocketbook/handbook in which you write everything down (even when you come on and off duty), and again most phones have a voice recorder for verbal notes or audio evidence too.

Many people complain that nothing happens when they patrol but if nothing happens, then you're doing a great job in discouraging crime in your area! The mere act of patrolling in the middle of the night, or at other local high-risk times, acts as a discouragement to crime. If nothing's happening, just carry on patrolling; it means that you're winning your local battle against crime.

Should NBW be armed? It's entirely up to you but you're _NOT_ going to want to get directly involved in a crime or try to arrest anyone, at best you might assist Law Enforcement . You don't want to wind up in court if anything goes wrong, or for that matter even if it goes right. However, being armed may help if you perceive an endangerment to life, like yours or someone else's. Yet within this scenario, if you're attacked, you're going to be in a vehicle so you should be able to drive away.

Communications in NBW's are a problem, since any radio communication is between the watch and also the local municipal control radio room. In the event of an emergency, you have to rely on the municipal radio operator understanding the situation, then contacting the relevant response needed, so you're probably better advised to call your emergency number, or your local armed response company.

As soon a patroller discovers an incident, most rookies find that there just isn't enough time to do everything properly, especially given that he'll probably have problems with the municipal control room. It would be of considerable help if there were a patrol co-ordinator on duty while there are patrols. The co-ordinator would act as logistical, communication (cell/radio/telephone) and information back up.

This way, a patroller only has to communicate with his co-ordinator. The co-ordinator then deals with the information and contacts the relevant authorities, leaving the patroller to continue his main task of observation and recording the incident. In such a scenario, the duty patrol co-ordinator also needs an occurrence handbook that includes the communications record. Tip: Always record the police stations and/or municipal Occurrence Book number regarding any incident.

If a good liaison is experienced between adjacent neighbourhood watches, there is no reason why patrol co-ordinators should not take it in turns to act as duty co-ordinators for their group of neighbourhood watches. This has the advantage that adjacent patrols are kept fully up to date about current events.

Patrol co-ordinators can be drawn from the watch's ranks of information co-ordinators, various sub-committees, patrollers and individuals who volunteer for doing only co-ordinator functions.

Understandably, some people do get bored and disenchanted, especially spouses, if they have to undertake neighbourhood watch duties on too regular a basis. You may be able to maintain interest -and therefore higher numbers- if watches are performed say only one or two days per month.

So you've decided that you wish to do your bit for society and you think that participating in a neighbourhood watch is a good idea, what do you do? First, check if one's already operating in your area. Talk to your station commander, the crime prevention officer, the CPF or Sector Policing liaison officer. If there is a neighbourhood watch in your area, they'll tell you who is the chairman. Go and see him/her, and then decide how you can best participate.

If there is no existing watch, you might want to consider setting one up. You'll need a minimum of about thirty volunteers to operate initially for two weeks of the month. Once you've got your volunteers, go back to the station commander and see how you can best set up your watch for the local conditions.

In the unlikely event that your local station commander is unwilling or incapable of assisting you, phoning the district or provincial commissioner's secretary and you'll usually find that she'll put you in touch with someone who will help you. Voila, your station commander usually reconsiders his position on the matter.

Be advised that Community Police Forum is _Not_ the same thing as Neighbourhood Watch. The purpose of CPF is to act as a liaison between the police and the general public but it is not unknown for CPF's to become ensnared in Politics. A neighbourhood watch is a hands-on means for assisting the police in being more effective in your area, acting as a general discouragement to crime.

Nobody wants their Neighbourhood Watch being influenced by Politics, so its advisable to deal direct with Police personnel if there are any problems. Hands-on street cops are usually grateful for this approach since this results in quicker, more effective solutions to problems.

Supplementing the eyes and ears of local police and security companies usually results in an outstanding reduction in crime in any given suburb but especially when the activities of the neighbourhood watch are blatantly visible, pro-active, legal, well supervised and actually seen to be working in conjunction with authorities.

# Chapter 35  
ENCLOSED SUBURBS, GATED COMMUNITIES

In South Africa, 'Gated' Living usually refers predominantly to communities that have enclosed a 'previously open' suburb, not –as in the US- a planned, styled and predesigned, usually upmarket Gated Community. Enclosed Suburbs (or Road Closures) have proven to be a very effective –even if contentious- crime prevention strategy in this country because if nothing else, one restricts access to non-residents strolling or driving around with no apparent purpose.

Homeowner levies also ensure that only highly trained, dedicated security officers offer a far more professional deterrent than plain clothes volunteers. There is however nothing to prevent a group supplementing the activities of a contracted security company with a Neighbourhood Watch dedicated to an enclosure, supplementing the observation of the suburb.

The action of enclosing a suburb, when properly planned and executed has been shown to discourage violent and opportunistic crime by up to 90% within a few months inside the suburb. This in itself has proven to be the most attractive draw card to people considering the option.

Yet despite the previous statement there have been some disappointing disasters within some enclosed suburbs, a few have acted as magnets in actually attracting confrontational and other criminals, with a resulting huge increase in crime, usually though when criminals or gangs have actually relocated inside of them.

Within newly enclosed suburbs, opportunistic and confrontational crime typically drops between 50 - 90% almost immediately, (Quote: Local police stations and security companies confirmed that crime was reduced significantly after road closures";  CSIR (http://www.csir.co.za/Built_environment/Planning_support_systems/gatedcomsa/docs/case_studies.pdf) is the South African Council for Scientific and Industrial Research.

That aspect, combined with an associated drop in home insurance rates of 15-25% plus a comforting rise in home values of typically 15-30% during the first twelve months of enclosure can only indicate that whether one discusses a 'predesigned' gated community, or one that's newly enclosed, the results are similar; considerably lower crime and an overall enhanced feeling of safety for residents, _within the enclosure_.

Be advised that security inside any enclosure must be truly effective and not bluff, remember what we mentioned about bluff in the Part II. An enclosure must be able to stop access by potential criminals, not just look good and merely make things inconvenient for law-abiding people to enter and exit.

It should be pointed out however, (because some people don't realise this)-, that once outside an _Enclosed Suburb, You are No Longer In a Secure Area!_ You might think that this was common sense but many people just don't get it.

Many apologists are fully aware of this fact and believe that enclosed suburbs shouldn't be allowed because it doesn't make areas that are outside the enclosure any safer. How can it? Apparently they believe that you shouldn't make yourself more secure or improve your community spirit because it impacts negatively on others outside the enclosed suburb. (Perhaps where _they_ live?)

Apparently, you're not allowed to make life difficult for criminals, since they should be free to roam everywhere and be violent wherever they see fit. Remember, it's society's fault that they're violent criminals. Say what?!

It is of interest to note that the maximum community size where everyone knows everyone else considered to be about 200 - 600 people. Correspondingly, this is about the number of people found in typically enclosed suburbs although some are bigger. Therefore, because of the need for constant discussion relating to the various aspects involved in setting up and maintaining an enclosed area, this actually improves 'community spirit'.

Of course, Enclosures do not totally stop crime but they do tend to discourage and reduce it immensely, interestingly, one doesn't need to live in a wealthy suburb to be able to enclose your suburb. The concept also works well in middle income suburbs but you do need to keep up your other precautions. Road Closures are _not a substitute for taking normal security precautions._ Enclosure is a more holistic (and very much more effective) addition to normal security measures.

Closures can cause minor inconvenience for those who live in them, (like remotes not working, unannounced visitors, contractors etc) and for those who would otherwise wish to pass through, but it does reduce crime dramatically. Plus, another major benefit is that because of the reduced traffic passing through, there's far less chance of road accidents.

Plans must however be made to allow emergency vehicles easy access into and through the enclosure. There have been serious complaints relating to problems of movement of emergency vehicles in enclosures. These are problems easily solved by gate personnel being trained properly and adhering to SOP's. (Standard Operational Procedures), AKA an idiot's guide.

Adjacent residents may complain that they cannot move easily through these areas. To a degree their complaints are justified because the municipality bears the cost of road maintenance. The suburb should consider bearing some of this cost, or allowing through traffic during rush hours and school opening and closing times.

Given a little consideration and compromise, your suburb can enjoy enhanced security without alienating the surrounding communities. Unfortunately it often requires the patience of Job and almost Herculean effort to enclose a suburb.

Typically, town planning departments in South Africa only accept applications for enclosed suburbs with a maximum of about 200-300 homes. The enclosure must not include a police station, clinic, school, shopping centre, arterial road, or any other public service. Emergency vehicles must have free and unhindered access and movement through an enclosed suburb. Furthermore, in South Africa a motivation/ recommendation letter from the local police is a prerequisite.

If the hope is to include more houses than proscribed, it may be better to apply for two adjoining enclosures. Tip: smaller residential areas can sometimes get off without a road traffic impact study, (which are not cheap.)

A really determined group intending a road closure suburb first surveys the area and studies a map of it (Google Earth.) Ensure that there aren't any public services within the planned enclosure and there aren't too many houses. Now would be a good time to research a few Gated Community (http://www.gatedcomsa.co.za/) websites (for architectural advice) and learning about an alternative to being 'gated'.

The South African Security Company CMS (Community Monitoring Services) being one of the few in South Africa that have successfully specialised for many years now in either gated communities as well as another very effective crime prevention protocol known as Precinct Philosophy (http://www.cmssa.co.za/whatisprecinct.htm), where although no 'gates' or booms are erected, everything else utilised in a gated community is present.

In the US, there are well over 11 million households in 22 states living 'Gated' (http://www.househunt.com/community-living/gated.htm), another good site to check out is private communities (http://www.privatecommunities.com/)

Before starting anything, it's essential to first visit your local town planning department, in an unofficial capacity, to see how they treat applications for road closures. They may be very particular in certain aspects, you'll either find officials completely unhelpful, or you may be pleasantly surprised, obviously attitudes (and therefore yields) will vary from one municipal office to another.

Unfortunately, municipalities all have their own specific rules and regulations relating to enclosed suburbs, so you'll have to play things as they come. It's well worthwhile contacting the chairmen of enclosed suburbs near you to see how they accomplished it, to identify any problems that they may have had, and to get suggestions from them.

Road closures in SA need the agreement (i.e. written mandate) of at least 67% of the householders within the designated area. Without a two-thirds majority to start with, you should reconsider your entire strategy. Experience has shown that it's a far better option to attain a 70% mandate initially to allow for dropouts.

You're in for the long haul generating leaflets outlining the argument for the need to enclose your suburb, and the benefits thereof. You should hold public meetings (a prerequisite), and any other means of putting your message across, like a Facebook page or a 'What's app' group. A very effective and inexpensive precursor to the exercise is the dropping of small, home printed leaflets to all those included within your chosen area, asking for interested parties to exchange Email addresses.

With your minimum 67%+ acceptance you can commence the process with your local municipality, which –unless you have a volunteer coordinator- is when it starts costing money to pay a consultant, so be prepared for it.

There are consultancies that help write up your application and see the process through until completion (following proof of a 67% 'yes' community mandate). Unless you have retired professionals who have the expertise and are used to doing this sort of thing, you're probably better off using one of those consultants to guide you.

Once the boundary and required road closures are accepted and agreed upon, you're going to have to erect effective fences (remember Part II, no bluff?). For a full-on road closure you'll also need guard houses, booms, signage and other items.

Concurrent with this, you'll be making a deal to find the most cost effective security company to man the booms, undertake perimeter patrols and provide armed reaction support. The benefit of this is that you can negotiate a deal which allows dramatically reduced armed reaction fees. If you're smart, you could request an armed reaction team to be stationed within or on the boundary of the enclosure. Bear in mind that prior to enclosure, more than one security firm will have clients within the zone that they will lose, so prepare for friction.

Some consultancy companies are not only advisors but also contractors, so they can also run the whole closure operation including collecting the monthly dues; naturally for a fee but many consider it worthwhile as the fees collection issue can prove contentious.

# Chapter 36  
VIGILANTISM

Frankly, the existence of vigilantism in any community is usually a major indication that authorities responsible for that area have proven to be unwilling or unable to protect a particular community, it's a clear indication that the so-called 'social fabric' has broken down. Violence and often gang activity may have become so prevalent that members of the community feel that they must end the violent criminality which is terrorising and destroying their 'communal space', so often feel that the social contract has already been broken.

Unfortunately, a vigilante solution usually tends to be excessively violent. This is because mob activity rarely has any rationale or control. Another common reason is that it often requires extreme force to rid an area of criminal activity. Perhaps the most serious aspect of mob justice is that it cannot be shown that recipients of mob justice are actually found guilty of a major crime because they don't enjoy 'Due Process'. Owing to a lack of knowledge (in conjunction with desperation and fear) vigilante individuals and groups neither know –nor care- how to act 'properly' within the Law, so they often wind up committing serious criminal offences themselves.

Of course if gang warfare or drug trafficking doesn't destroy a community, then authorities just may. Worldwide, authorities usually take an extremely hard line against any vigilante activity because it reflects a failure on their part to perform adequately, as they (the police) are performing their duty mandated in 'the name of The Law'. Authorities state that vigilante groups, "take the Law into their own hands", so therefore that it's not just criminal but also immoral for the people to administer 'their' Law without due process.

Even when vigilante activity is more 'reasonable', with some form of trial, the defendant having some form of defence; and if found guilty, the sentence being non-capital, the authorities often still come down on the community like a ton of bricks.

This knee-jerk reaction to vigilante groups is _NOT_ because the authorities care one iota about the rule of Law, because if they truly cared, they would never have allowed the situation to deteriorate to the level where the community feels that it must resort to potentially lethal violence to protect the lives and wellbeing of the people in that community.

In fact the knee-jerk reaction by authorities is usually because the entire world can now see that they've _Dropped the Ball!_ Everyone sees that the entire range of politicians, senior public servants, local government officials and sometimes even Law Enforcement just couldn't be bothered to support the community in the way it deserves, a community that in many cases may have begged for support and redress for a long while.

Actually, in many cases it's far easier to demonise the community itself and arrest them, than it is to deal with gangs of violent criminals. Members of vigilante groups have a vested interest in their own community, they have families and want their kids to grow up safely, their own future lies within that community. Gang members on the other hand, readily accept a need for rapid relocation should their situation dictate. They have no stake in the community except to terrorise and milk it for what it's worth, then move on to greener pastures.

Perhaps the worst part of this is that often, honest and competent police officers are made -by their political and public service masters- to attack the very people who they have sworn to, (perhaps previously tried to) protect.

_But should your community ever feel that it must fight back against gangs and psychopaths, rather establish and use the proper rules of engagement._ These rules exist, and if you're clever you can use the very rules that the authorities created, then like you, they have to obey them or lose their own credibility, perhaps eventually even their own validity.

So if the authorities are doing nothing for you; go and see a lawyer, an NGO, a PAC or if the worst comes to the worst, a sympathetic local government official. Establish exactly what your Rights are, research how and when you may arrest gang members and how to lay charges at a police station. You have to register an official complaint by means of an affidavit if the police are to take action. Remember to always get that CAS or OB number, and the name of the interviewing officer, to clearly establish a pattern of negligence or any incompetence of authorities should that be the case.

Do what you have to under law to make your arrest, always take your arrested suspect to the police station. Log and record everything that you do; ideally get your log counter-signed by eye witnesses at the time of writing. If you believe that the police at the police station are incompetent or corrupt, wait around and witness yourself if your suspects are released, then request a reason from the station and if necessary make it a public matter.

Also, lodge an official complaint at another station against the station commander of the initial station and the police on duty at the first station. Should enough complaints be made against (senior?) police officers, eventually something will be done, especially if the media are involved. This process however takes real testicular fortitude because you have to submit all your personal details, and suspects are entitled to know who is accusing them of incompetence, graft or a suspicion of either.

Public demonstrations against crime usually only amuse most criminals, they rarely intimidate them. Demo's are terrific for funding proposals of faddish NGO's but they also simultaneously show criminals who the real 'troublemakers' are within the community. Gangs of course don't go around beating up and killing members of trendy NGO's so they're not at all bothered about innocent victims, just so long as they still get their funding. In fact a few deaths within the community may even improve the financial viability of their proposal to the authorities. Tip: Always determine the true agenda of an NGO or its executive if at all you are able.

Should there be enough people prepared to stand up for freedom from violence, in conjunction with increased arrests and acceptance of formal complaints, sometimes demos can help encourage the gangs to leave for pastures new by getting the heat turned up by the authorities. Although it's unlikely, with any luck the criminals may relocate to a suburb where the relevant politicians, senior civil servants and hopefully the NGO exec's reside, which would be truly fitting for all concerned.

Always keep in mind that participation in any way with anything even resembling a vigilante group instantly renders you a criminal yourself. 'Sorting out' bad guys yourself immediately makes you also the enemy of authorities by being involved in potentially breaking the Law. 'Authorities' _making for a much more dangerous enemy than any gang, so Follow The Rules, It's Much Safer._

One reassuring aspect that has been established about the perception of any lack of established 'social order' these days (thanks mainly to social media) is this; That once even the faintest rumour of a sniff of a chance of any public participation in 'public awareness' is started to any _organised_ degree (such as dropping or handing out leaflets, starting a Facebook page or organising a public awareness meeting), then authoritarian wheels invariably start to turn. Usually in your favour but sometimes not.

Being large, those wheels may turn slowly but turn they surely do, usually in your favour. What greases those wheels greatly however is mainstream media attention, however brief that attention is, because once 'the media' are involved, for better or worse, everything becomes a matter of public record. Social media on the other hand can become very easily sustainable.

# Chapter 37  
COMMUNITY CHOICE

One might notice considerable similarity between the various motivations supporting both vigilante activity as well as so-called community organisations, both wish to stop violent crime within their communities, just by way of differing methods.

It's perhaps wickedly ironic that vigilantism –in South Africa at least- sometimes involves more of the community than any of the 'other' organisations -in other words legal ones-, albeit much more briefly.

The core difference is that non-vigilante organisations are usually pro-active, pre-planned, organised and sustainable, whereas vigilante activities are 'none of the above' in nature and structure. The legal difference being that the end-results of formalised orgs are usually within the Law, the results of **any** vigilante activity are quite rightfully always viewed as illegal.

Were Residence Associations and 'civics' to tie up with community groups before those community groups resort to vigilantism, the considerable energies within these combined groups could be structured to develop relevant measures before a situation deteriorates.

It should become very obvious to members of such associations that a situation is getting out of control and that authorities appear to be prepared to do nothing about it except hold so-called 'Workshops'. [AKA an opportunity for a few stuffed shirts to vent loudly in a PC manner on matters they usually can't even comprehend, get themselves fed and watered, claim expenses, then get back on the gravy train.]

Considerable care must be taken to ensure that none of the organisations involved are overtly Political in nature, or are likely to be taken over by Politicians. Because of course once that does happen, everyone rides the gravy train and nothing gets done for the real I & A P's (Interested and Affected Parties) the potential victims of violent crime, so events can easily return to vigilante activity just to get things back on track.

One of the major problems relating to violent crime within communities is sometimes the lack of police resources to respond to incidents. There are very few really outstanding station commissioners who adjust their very limited resources so that most of those resources are available during the times of greatest threat, but they do exist.

If you are not in the fortunate position of having an effective station commander, or municipal police force that actually functions as a police force should, you're back to the situation where _YOU_ are responsible for all aspects of your security because -unless you're wealthy- there's no one else around to do it for you.

Should you not be able to go down the formal routes of neighbourhood watches and other organisations due to lack of finances or other social, community or geographical restrictions; there are other avenues. There's nothing to stop religious or ad-hoc informal non-political social/ community groups from gathering together and entering into an arrangement with a security company to provide dedicated response vehicle for a particular suburb, locality or community. Some suburbs even hire then set up CCTV monitors to observe 'hot' areas or entry points.

It may be that as a suburb/community, you decide to set up your own Security Company. It's been done in the US with groups like COPS, (Citizens On Patrol) but in SA beware, that road is long and hard as here you're forced to deal with Government departments like the SA Private Security Industry's Regulatory Authority (PSIRA). Unfortunately they're not recognised for being the most user-friendly organisation in the world to deal with, by many accounts.

There are many solutions to the problems of community safety, all require some effort but you will find something suited to your needs and budget. Just don't let Politics or personalities become involved, because that way you're just going to keep someone else happy and your security plan will be doomed to failure.

# Chapter 38  
YOUR CHOICE

As in most civilised countries, South Africans have Rights to life and freedom from violence. Although the empowerment and/or enforcement of those Rights are not stated in the Constitution, The Common Law allows you to protect those Rights, in extremis.

Everyone has these Rights, both the criminal and the victim. Unfortunately, it could easily be perceived that the criminal has greater access to those Rights than the victim. Indeed, the application of the Law, and the criminal justice system appears to enforce such perceptions.

However, if you use the principles offered in this handbook, in conjunction with professional legal advice, you'll be making it almost impossible for neither criminals, nor the criminal justice system to tyrannize you for daring to defend yourself. By keeping to the rules there's little that the authorities can do but accept your actions as lawful.

Unfortunately, there is an influential body of opinion, made up of mostly politicians, human rights lawyers, sociologists, public servants and others, who believe that violent criminals should not be inhibited from using violence by the fear that violence may be used against them. They must not be forced to stop using violence, because that is wrong. These 'nice' people believe that violent criminals must be allowed to realise, in their own time, that it is not correct to use violence.

We have seen that fear -or respect- in its many forms is the fundamental deterrent to the use of violence by criminals. So, what these good people are saying is that the victim (that's _You, Your Child Or Any Other Loved One_ ) is totally unimportant where the rights and social integration of violent criminals is concerned. The logical conclusion of this apologist doctrine is that it doesn't matter how many victims are injured, raped or murdered, over whatever period, as long as these psychotics eventually come to realise that their behaviour is anti-social. Unfortunately many never will.

In other words, to some 'chosen few', ordinary people don't seem to matter and their needs and protection can be either ignored or simply 'considered'. It is perhaps this apologist attitude which has allowed authorities to either ignore or merely pay lip service to the proliferation of domestic violence and child abuse, as well as the high incidence of other crimes of violence.

The influence of these important social and moral so-called 'experts' is easily seen if one considers the actions of the authorities after a crime of violence in Johannesburg. The criminal is immediately sent to one of the best private hospitals in the city, and treated at the taxpayers' expense. The victim is left to deal with his or her own injuries. Unless they have medical aid, victims have to get treatment when and how they can, and the victim has to pay for it them self. This is one reason why the word 'misguided' is used in this handbook's sub-title.

Civilised ethics require that violent criminals be granted Rights. But given that a criminal can choose between confrontational and non-confrontational crime, those self-same ethics demand that victims, and potential victims of violent crime should have first call on those Rights, and empowerment of those Rights, rather than the instigators of violent crimes.

It was mentioned earlier that police cannot be anything other than a reactive organisation. It was also shown that the criminal justice system often doesn't act as an effective deterrent to violent crime. You'll now realise that the leading pro-active element of crime control, is _YOU_ , the individual member of the public.

For obvious reasons, invariably it is individual members of the public who; provide the police with information; inform the police that a crime has been committed, and who are mostly the victims of most violent attacks. When a violent attack is unsuccessful, it's often an individual member of the public passing by who stops an attack.

Yet despite (or because of) this undeniable truth, apologists insist on more and more legal, bureaucratic and other restrictions restricting the ability of people to protect themselves and others from violence even though they cannot be protected by the authorities, -by their own admission.

All available evidence for the last five and a half millennia, especially the last two hundred years of recorded history, shows us that whenever authorities decide to pass laws prohibiting a private individual's legal and physical means to inhibit confrontational crime, violence, tyranny and social unrest have inevitably escalated to unacceptable levels.

The police or its equivalent have been the authorities' agent in the matter of enforcing these harassing and unjust laws against law-abiding individual members of the public. Is it any wonder that under these conditions, the police and the criminal justice system become viewed as 'the enemy' by a growing sector of society.

Conversely, whenever authorities have motivated individuals to protect themselves and others less strong than themselves from violence by encouraging Rights and empowerment of those Rights, by facilitating the ownership, practice and use of the means to protect those in need of protection, not only have violent crime levels dropped but also a sense of honour, honesty, responsibility and generosity starts to pervade that sector of society. Indeed, the police and the criminal justice system can often start to become seen as a respected, but supporting entity.

Should you feel that the system is weighed against you, that as a victim you're not empowered to protect yourself or your loved ones, then do something legal about it! _YOU_ have the right to complain.

It's said that any valid letter to a State President, a Minister of State, a politician, senior cleric, leader of a commission or any other 'commissar', especially if published by print or online social media is generally considered to be read by at least 5,000 other people, a lot of these people will be in your own locality. If you present a valid point, someone somewhere will either care, or worry.

If your Rabbi/ Priest/ Imam/ Domini is of the opinion that it's wrong for the victim to use force to protect himself or his family from violent crime, consider changing to a different place of worship. Firstly, his venue is going to look pretty vacant if his attendance winds up empty. Secondly; if there's no money in the collection plate, 'the pinch' will soon be felt and his tune may quickly change! Everyone reports eventually to someone 'higher up' the food chain.

It's becoming apparent that many Clerics, most politicians and almost all civil servants seem to believe that you are there for their benefit and not the other way around, so it's only once you start demanding justice that you'll eventually get a society worth living in. It's only if you're prepared to protect both yourself and others, that confrontational criminals will choose to become non-violent, at least in your neighbourhood.

As we stated in the title; It's Your Choice!

The End.

RJJW+MLH 2014

# ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Richard J Wesson is an accredited instructor in law-enforcement tactics and private defence. Academically he is qualified as an Earth Scientist. Wesson combines these abilities to undertake criminological research into the most effective means that ordinary people can use to protect themselves from violent attack. He has presented various papers to the SA Parliamentary Committee for Safety & Security. He has also produced articles on solutions for the awful scourge of domestic violence. He has travelled in most of the countries in the SADC region and lives in Jo'burg since 1991.

Martin Hedington is an ex Royal Navy electronics technician who graduated to electronic materials and inventory control. Emigrating with his family to South Africa in 1985 he soon developed an interest in personal and community safety. He's served as a volunteer reservist cop, self-defense and firearm instructor, volunteered 20 years' service with CPF; SCF and R/A Exco's. Founded the CBO; Community-driven Crime-prevention Initiatives, (CCI). Was Executive Director for Community Safety on the counter-crime NPO; X-Treme Community Safety, (078-824-NPO.) Martin actively supports the RKABA, and can usually be found lurking online at www.gunsite.co.za or http://gunownerssa.org or email him at mailto:m.l.hedington@gmail.com

