You can do it.
Pop Ups.
They are a great way to
create dynamic forms in space
just by using planes.
We will show you some tips to
help you make your own pop up.
For inspiration,
you may wish to look
pop ups made by others first.
Looking at professional pieces
and trying to reverse engineer
them is a good way to learn
how the piece functions.
You don't need to take a book
apart in order to analyze it.
Pop up books are built
to seem complicated,
because dazzling the
reader is the designer's
goal, such as in this
work by Robert Sabuda.
If you look closely,
though, you'll
notice that the mechanisms
work on a couple
of basic principles.
Folds.
The folds, even on the
most complicated pieces,
are based upon mountain
folds a valley folds.
This is a mountain fold,
and this is a valley fold.
You create the fold first
by marking where it will be
and then scoring the
paper with a bone folder
or wooden knitting needle.
Scoring compresses the paper
fibers, but does not cut them.
The paper will now have a
tendency to fold in inwards.
Be sure to score on the
correct side, though.
Once the score is
made, the paper
will always have a tendency
to been in that one direction.
Once creased, burnish the fold,
leaving a nice crisp edge.
Skipping the score
and burnish steps
results in folds that
are wrinkled and sloppy.
Slots and tabs.
Basic mechanisms can
trigger peripheral movements
through the use
of slots and tabs.
They can also stabilize
planes or create extra volume.
To make slots and tabs,
measure the width of the tab
and add just a little extra
to the length of the slide
when cutting.
If the slot is too long,
the tab may be too loose.
You can always cut more
if easement is needed.
Fold the tab sides in and
unfold once through the slot.
There is no need to glue,
as the tabs, once unfolded,
will not escape.
Tension.
The action of the pop
up relies on tension.
By opening and closing the
picture plane, also known
as the spread, two planes
draw close or move away
from one another.
To take advantage of this
together then apart motion,
paper engineers will normally
place the main mechanism
over the centerfold,
also known as the gutter.
Like a bridge, one
part of the mechanism
will be on one
side of the gutter,
and then spanned over
to the other side.
In basic mechanisms,
the fold, whether it
be a mountain or
valley, needs to align
with the gutter in order for
the spread to close properly.
Designing the piece so
that the interior does not
show when closed is a sign
of good craftsmanship.
This one will need
to be re-sized.
Helpful tips.
Before designing your piece,
decide how far it will open.
90 degree mechanisms are
usually associated with cards
and have a definite
front and back.
This Valentine from around
1910 is a good example
of a 90 degree design.
Book spreads are
normally 180 degrees,
allowing the pop up to be viewed
from multiple sides and angles.
There are several books that
illustrate basic mechanisms.
Do not be afraid to experiment
and modify existing solutions
to fit your needs.
Be sure to use heavy paper,
such as 110 pound or index card
paper, as lighter weights
will wear out quickly.
When making a
prototype, you may wish
to use low stick tape
to allow repositioning.
Once placement is decided,
adjusted, and marked,
the pieces can then be removed
to be used as templates.
A light box is useful in making
copies of the different pieces.
If you don't have a light
box, use a sunny window.
When working at night, you
can take glass from a picture,
place it over two tables,
boxes, or stacks of books,
and place a lamp beneath.
Don't be cheap.
Change out your blades
often for the cleanest cut.
Cuticle scissors are very
helpful for small detail work.
A prototype is not the same
thing as a white paper dummy.
A white paper dummy is
fully functional, clean,
and client ready.
It does not usually
have any imagery, just
the functioning parts.
Tabs may be inserted
to the backside
the spread for stability
and to hide there
ends beneath the picture plane.
This is a design choice.
It is not necessary to
hide the entire mechanism,
supports can be colored to
blend with the background.
Do not worry if the backside
looks messy, as the support may
be hidden with a cover.
Make sure to have the
spread completely open when
gluing down the cover.
If glued while closed, the
item may not open completely,
or a gap will appear
along the spine.
Choose glues that are not too
watery to avoid paper buckling.
Let dry completely before
testing the mechanism.
Constructing samples
allows you to experiment
with adhesives and
mediums before using them
on the final work.
Color the piece
before assembling.
Often it is too difficult to get
into areas with pencil or brush
after the construction.
Be sure to erase all pencil
lines before applying
your medium of choice.
And remember to
color both the front
and the back of all pieces,
as the finished work will
be viewed from multiple angles.
Students in the past
have had great success
with colored pencils,
pens, markers, watercolors,
and acrylic washes.
Collage can be a
good design solution
if the papers are thin.
Color tissue paper is a
popular collage choice.
Please be warned,
thick acrylic will
want to stick to itself
when the weather is humid.
Other mediums not recommended
include pastels, charcoal,
oils, and crayons
due to smudging.
With these tips, you now
know enough to get started
on your own pop up design.
We know you can do it.
