
English: 
Hello and welcome to another one
of my videos.
In this one we are going to be looking at
hand generators again.
Now, I need to clear some space, and so
I thought I'd get rid of a few of my
interim experiments, intermediate ones,
and I thought that I'd show you
what I learned with each one
as I went along through the process
so I can clear some space.
Now, the last model I showed you
was this one where I managed to get
a 12 volt motorcycle lamp going.
Now there were two things that I wanted to
improve. I wanted to reduce
the friction in the bearings and also
improve the situation with the belts.
This was the next version I did and
it was quite a bit of an effort
to get this far.
I changed the structure of it
to have two side panels, separated by
sticks, which was a lot more efficient

Spanish: 
Hola y bienvenido a otro de mis videos
En este vamos a ver 
generadores de mano otra vez
Bueno, necesito despojar mi espacio
entonces pense en botar unas cosas
de mis experimentos entermedios
y pense en mostrarte
lo que aprendi con cada uno
mientras que pase por el proceso
para ganarme un poco de espacio.
La ultima version que te mostre
era esto donde logre
alumbrar una lampara de moto de 12 volteos
Bueno, habia dos cosas que quise mejorar.
quise bajar
la fricion en los rodamientos y tambien
mejorar la situacion con las coreas
Esto era la proxima version que hice
y tomo un poco de esfuerzo
para llegar a este punto.
Yo cambie la estructura de el
para tener dos lados separados por palitos
lo cual era mas eficiente.

Spanish: 
porque entonces los dos lados vuelven
como este otro, solo dos paneles.
Mucho mas facil a fabricar. Entonces 
remplace el eje aqui en la rueda prinical
con un pedazo de tubo lo cual
mejoro o bajo la friccion.
Use un neumatico de caro, lo de adentro
para la corea aqui para que
no tuve que tencionarlo
y solo usar la banda para dar tension
y continue con la corea principal 
de elastico, que no era buena.
Puse un banco de capacitores adentro alli
para lograr 5 minutos de luz
luz reducido, cuando habia cargado 
el banco de capacitores
y esto era suficiente para poder
hacer una tasa de cafe a las 3 am
de la manana, en la oscuridad,
felizmente.
Entonces basicamente funciono, pero era 
era pesado y habia cosas para arreglar.
Para la proxima , yo volvi

English: 
because then, the same sides could become
like this other one just two single panels
A lot easier to make.Then I replaced
the shaft here on the main crank wheel
with a piece of pipe, which did improve
in reducing the friction.
I used a car tyre, a piece of inner tube
for the belt here, so that I could
get away with not tensioning it
and just the rubber band gave me the tension.
and I continued with the elastic main belt
which was not good.
I put a capacitor bank in there so that 
I could get about 5 minutes of light
reduced light, once I charged that
capacitor bank up
and that was enough to be able to make
a cup of coffee at three o'clock
in the morning, in the dark, 
quite happily.
So , it basically worked, but it was
very clunky, and there were things
to still improve.
The next one I went back to a

English: 
system of the string on this pulley
here, with a tensioner here
and I put a spring on it so that it will
pull it , even if you tilt it
it will still tension.I replaced
the elastic band on the other one
with a car inner tube, but to get one
of the right size, I had to
stitch it together . Now, it worked
to a degree, and it wouldn't stay central
and it wanted to always go on this
high point and down onto here.
It worked ok. The bearings I decided,
that plastic on plastic
might be a good idea, so I made a bearing
here with a plastic pipe going through.
And yes, it was quite smooth.
On the other side, very hard to see here
but I put another one of those squares
with a hole through, to take the shaft
with the nail, which was actually a screw
in this case, here.

Spanish: 
a un sistema con un hilo en la polea aqui
con un tencionador aqui,
y puse un resorte alli para que se hale
aun cuando lo volteas.
todavia va tencionarlo.
Yo remplace la banda de elastico
con un neumatico, pero para tener
uno de el tamano corecto
tuve que cocerlo. Funciono 
a cierto punto pero no quedo centralizado
y quiso siempre estar en este punto alto
y hacia este punto abajo
Funciono Ok. Los rodamientos yo decidi
que plastico con plastico
seria un buen idea, entonces hice un
rodamiento con un tubo plastico por aqui
y si, era bien suave.
en el otro lado, es dificil verlo pero
puse otro de estas cuadros
con un hueco en el centro, para el eje
con una puntilla, realmente era 
un tornillo en este caso.

Spanish: 
y aqui abajo... esa era todo
entonces estaba bien.
Funciono y aprendi un poco
y en el proximo trate a mejorar
la tencion de esta corea aqui.
Todavia es cocido
y se ve feo, pero pense
que pude tencionarlo
haciendo esta rueda junto con su motor
como una unidad separada
insertada en la caja, con un punto
de pivote, pivotearlo, para tencionarlo
y despues fijarlo con un tornillo aqui.
y si, funciono.
pero no era particularmente bonito,
entonces pense que pude simplificarlo
un poco mejor. Volvi al neumatico
y este vez lo pege con pegante
para lograr una union mejor alli, 
en cambio de cocerlo, y tambien
una rueda mas grande en este polea
para tener un mejor ratio al motor
abajo, pero este signific que tuve que
hacer una banda mas grande de neumatico
para este alli. Tambien tuve problemas
con la corea migrandose

English: 
down below...that was just it, so
that was ,OK.
It worked, and I learned a little bit.
and the next one I tried to improve
the tensioning of this belt here.
It is still sewn
and looks a little bit ugly, but I thought
I would be able to tension it by
making this wheel with its motor
on a separate unit here
inserted into the box, with a pivot point
pivot it to tension it,
and then fix it with a screw here. 
Yes, it worked,
but it wasn't particularly pretty.
So I thought I would simplify it
a bit better. I went back to just the
inner tube, and this time I glued it
to get a better joint there, in stead of 
sewing it, and I went with
a bigger wheel on this pulley
so I could get a better ratio to the motor
down below, but that meant that I needed
to make a bigger band out of inner tube
for that one there. I also had problems
with the belt wandering off

English: 
so I tried a spacer between, 
sort of worked but it wasn't
that great either, but it generally
worked OK. It was simple enough,
and worked OK.
In the next version,
I basically came to terms with the belt.
I used a car inner tube, and instead of
cutting , joining, sewing and anything
like that, I decided to just leave it
as it is, the size that the pneumatic was
and that would then dictate
what size this wheel was going to be
and the distance between the two wheels.
But it basically became my standard.
Then I turned my attention
to the bearings.
Up the top here, I found that because 
it was winding so slow
it really didn't need much
in the way of bearings
and it wasn't going to wear too much
and the friction wasn't too bad.
But down below because of the 
fast revolutions of this wheel
this did need a lot of bears, 
and the friction did make a big defference.

Spanish: 
entonces probe una arandela aqui
y esto mas o menos funciono,
pero tampoco era fantastico, pero 
generalmente funciono OK. Simple,
y funciono Ok.
En la proxima version
basicamente llege a un acuerdo
con la corea. Use un neumatico pero
en cambio de cortar, cocer,unir, o algo
decidi dejarlo tal cual
como era, el mismo tamano
y esto dictara
el tamano de este rueda y la distancia
entre las dos ruedas.
Basicamente volvio mi estandar.
Entonces puse mi atencion a
los rodamientos.
Arriba aqui, encontre porque 
anda lentamente
realmente no se necesita mucho
en cuanto de rodamientos
y no va gastarse rapidamente
y la fricion no era mal
pero abajo por los revoluciones rapidas
necesitaron rodamientos mucho
y la fricion hace una gran diferencia.

English: 
So, in stead of plastic, which was going
to wear out, metal on plastic
I did metal on metal. I cut a little plate
and screwed it on there
but because of the thickness of this ply
I had to put a little packer
and use some little screws.
Occasionally the screws were too long
and they drilled into and touched 
the wheel also, so
that was a little bit of a problem
but it worked very well,
this bearing metal on metal,
and it spun very nicely.
So because of that, that situation with
the block on the outside
was a little bit cumbersome, I decided
to try putting it on the inside
and that worked a lot better.
I made some roller bearings out of nails
and PVC. They worked very well
bur for the size and weight and everything
of the generator it really couldn't
justify the work that was necessary
for the gain I got, but the concept
of roller bearings is very fascinating.

Spanish: 
Entonces en cambio de plastico, lo cual
va gastarse mucho, metal contra plastico
hice metal contra metal. Corte una placa
y lo atornille alla
pero por el gruesor de esta triplex tuve 
que poner un empaque
y unas tornillos pequenos.
de ves en cuando los tornillos eran
demaciado largos y tcaron la rueda,
entonces
era un problemita, 
pero funcionaron muy bien
este rodamiento metal contra metal,
y giro muy bien.
entonces por esto, la sitiuacion con
el bloque afuera
era un poco incomodo, decidi
tratar colocarlo adentro
y esto funciono mejor.
Hice rodamientos de barras, de puntillas
y PVC. Funciono muy bien
pero por el tamano y peso y todo
de el generador, realmente
no se pudo justificar, por la poca
ganancia. Pero el concepto
de rodamientos de barra es facinante

Spanish: 
Bueno, si tenemos dos cilindros
en un superficie plano, y lo impujamos
hay mucha fricion.
Pero si lo dejas rodar
hay poca fricion
y por supuesto va en este direcion.
Bueno, si tomamos otra cilindro, 
y lo colocamos encima, roderan
tambien con poca fricion.
Uno en este direcion
y el otro en la direcion opuesta.
y si colocas el cilindro aqui,
y con varios a su alrededor
dentro de otro cilindro cerrado,
en cambio de un superficie plano
va ser un rodaje continuo.
El eje va en una direcion
los otros en la direcion opuesta
mientras se mueve en este direcion
Es fascinante, baja el nivel de fricion
bien tambien.
Bueno, la diferencia entre un rodamiento
de balines y de barillas
es que la bola tiene solo dos puntos
de contacto, entonces tiene menos fricion

English: 
now , if we have a cylinder, 
on a flat surface and we just push it
there'd be lots of friction.
But if you let it roll,
there is very little friction.
and of course it goes in this direction.
Now, if you take another cylinder
and you put it on top, they will roll
also with very little friction. 
One going in this direction
the other in the opposite direction.
Then if you put your cylinder here
and several of them around
in another enclosed cylinder, instead
of a flat surface,
it will be a continuous roll.
The axle going one direction
the others going in the opposite direction
while moving in that direction.
It's quite fascinating, and 
it lowers the friction quite well.
Now, the difference between a 
roller bearing and a ball bearing
is that a ball bearing has only two points
of contact, so has a lot less friction

English: 
The cylinder has a line, two lines 
of contact, so that means that
there is a little more friction but it can
take a lot more weight
so they are a lot stronger bearings
as a roller bearing, than a ball bearing.
But our little hand gernerator
is so light and small, that it really
doesn't justify either of the bearings
so we went with something
a lot more simpler. So in the end, 
I took a piece of sheet metal
a piece of tin, and with two tabs on.
Now those tabs meant that I could
do away with using screws
because I could just
bend them over, poke them through
a couple holes, from the inside
with a hole for the axle, 
and bend them over also
and they are fixed without
the need of screws.
So, that's a list of developments that I
went through to get this little
hand generator. Really there was only
one more thing that I did

Spanish: 
El cilindro tiene dos lineas de contacto
entonces este significa que
hay un poquito mas fricion, pero 
aguanta mucho mas peso
entonces son rodamientos mucho mas fuertes
que los de balines
Pero nuestra pequeno generador de mano
es tan liviano que realmente
no se justifica cualquier de estos dos
entonces hicimos algo mas sencillo
mas facil. Al final, yo tome una lamina
hecho de metal, con dos orejas.
Estas orejas significa que
no necesito usar los tornillos.
Solamente puedo
doblarlos, y meterlo por unos huecos
desde adentro
con un hueco para el eje,
y doblarlo tambien
y estan fijados sin la necesidad
de tortnillos
Entonces, esto es una lista de desarollos
que hice para lograr este pequeno
generador de mano. Realmente
habia solo una cosa mas que hice

English: 
was to be able to tension this
inner tube and align it as well
with a mechanism here, but
we will look at that in another video
and in that video we will make
the entire thing.

Spanish: 
era tener la abilidad de tencionar
este neumatico y alinearlo tambien
con un mecanismo aqui,
pero miramoslo en otro video
y en este video vamos a fabricarlo
todito.
