We'll edit this later, and brainwash
those who saw it or kill them.  Muahaha
Lets put a UFO together: okay start with the dolly
pop it on
and if you look closely
that's done by depressing this button
slide on the wheel. There you go. lift the
boat, roll dolly under.
And here we have clips attached to the dolly here.
clip to loop and, on the other side
there we go, all right, next we assemble
the mast, so mast is made out of how many parts?
Three parts. An upper, a middle and a
lower. The lower also contains the
tension array and the booms. okay and
this you have a button mm-hmm as with on
the dolly it's connected with a button
you depress the button slide it into
position
there you go 
Okay, Next have to throw on the lowers
the lower sockets into the middle member of the mast- like so
alright, now connect the shackle to the top of the hounds
next let's attach the booms.
yep I'm standing on it let me just move
over yes
there it is, and next one, same thing
-oops
-what?
oh just keep doing these
ring-dings backwards because they're
weird ring-dings 
and there it is
through the top into the bottom always
have your ring-dings on the underside
because if the ring ding falls off the
pin never falls out
for the sake of
being tidy
I often rig my halyard into a sort of
primitive topping lift to keep the boom up
you want to go through the features at
the top of the mast?  I suppose since
you know once they're up there you can't
really talk about them. sure okay the
the halyard is external, side loaded
so there it is
you'll host through this bullseye, you
will cleat here from down on the ground
which is actually quite easy to do and
to keep it tidy all the way down you'll
hook it into there and then it just goes
down into your sail bag or what's it
called the tube the Philips bulb yeah
pillock bulb
well I'm de-rigged I like to just
rig a primitive topping lift with the
halyard keeps the boom a little bit more
out of the way and it looks like a sail
creates the negative of one she's just
kind of cool I want to state a thousand
times over this is not necessary you're
not skipping a step if you don't do this
it's a minor active vanity on my part
alright next you step the mast
it's as simple as that and rotate and
look alright looks like a sail
time to put the foils in, put the boat on its side
so you want to talk about the capsize
things sure if you've got the luxury of
grass this is really easy, you
don't some yoga mat padding or something
of the like
do the job quite nicely a sail bag can
in a pinch a couple lifejackets can and
boat cover you know anything soft do the
trick pretty well
clip it in there's
a clip on the bottom 
yeah let me show
that and and focus on it. oh you can do,
it there we go. and the clip is here so
this little thing. now you rig the rudder
halyard. Rudder halyard goes up there's
the clip. Rudder halyard goes up through
this bullseye mm-hmm around this bullseye try
that again
mm-hmm and through to the cleat.
next insert the main foil strut and control
array
straight in. flip the wand of course
unwind the top nut. all right let me get
to you. see you undo that.. unwind that from
that guy, thread in your tie rod
insert it down the central rectangular
channel, insert all right let me show
this insert it into the tang here yep
there it is
I'm threading on the top knob that holds
all three elements together. wind it on
very tight, should be hearing noises like
that, that's good, next, when the foil is assembled
slide it up and show the clip flip it
into position. so here's the clip. do you
want this to be under the main? you can
do that, I personally prefer to put it
there as it holds up the aluminum, rather
than screwing around with your flap. I like to keep my flap clean.
alright we're assembled
Right the boat, rig up the mainsheet,
mainsheet rigs from? I do it from the main block, through the ratchet
through the block, through your anti-garrot
block. keeps the mainsheet out of your face
back to the bridle, and up to the shackle
here, where it terminates in a bowline
there we go let's put the sail up now.
with most boats your rig directly had to
wind. with the UFO you'll want to be actually
at about 45 degrees to the breeze, so you
can sheet the main sail
off about 45 degrees and that will
become apparent very quickly why you
want to do that 
-there he is just undoing the
halyard
all right
tripod in the shot
super professional. yeah put the mainsail into
the wish boom, this is gonna be your crew
it's gonna help you hold the sail as it
goes up and as it goes down. I'm gonna
secure the roll, all right
make sure to have the right part of the
halyard it always sucks to get halfway
up and realize its wrong,
tie the halyard to the
head of the main with an Aussie bowline
otherwise known as an eight knot
followed by a hitch, which forms a rudimentary
soft shackle constantly cinches on, gets
tighter and tighter as the tension increases
Next, load the mainsail into the feeder and begin pulling
with most boats you pull the halyard
from the side or from the front in this
case because you want to bend thus far
as you go it's nice and easy because
this is a whippy spar before you apply
the tensioners you want to pull from the
back you want to use your body weight to
bow the spar as you go so what I've got
here is one wrap around my hand and I'm
straddling the foil with
the boom right here on my shoulder so
I'm right here aligned with the plane of
the sail from there pull down and feed up. quite easily
just smooth motion, and im not really pulling, i'm essentially
falling. I keep my shoulder locked. and just go down. after a while it's gonna get tough here the
middle because there's a lot of luff
round, so while you're falling you push
up with the other hand. yes really good
around these baton capsules so you can push quite hard
up, as you go down. and you're there. next
put the halyard into the V jammer up
there
- let me zoom in you got it 
now that you're in, the important thing is to jerk the sail down to lock it in
you need to tension it
make sure its actually jammed. you just pull the bottom of the sail a little bit, It will keep it in there
for good. next, put it into that side
cleat there, little clip, oh there is
tender keeps it out of the way 
- I cant see it from this angle though
if anything
that's predominantly cosmetic
next you run this through the ice trap
here, lock it off with a little trucker
hitch just to make sure it can't pay out
and you coil the mainsheet. that's a
matter of taste what you do with the
mainsheet you can leave it on the deck
or you can throw it in the Philip bulb
here and velcro it shut, either way works
pretty well
next you load the car in the lower track, and the bolt rope
pull it down get an initial degree downhaul this Cunningham in order to reduce
the amount of tail as much as possible
while maintaining a significant
mechanical advantage
he's a twin tailed Cunningham there's a
course tuning and a fine tuning
essentially that takes a little more
next you want to pay out a lot of outhaul. all
this little soft purchase system we have
here and depending on your needs for the
day you either take this soft shackle end
and terminate it directly onto the mainsail grommet here
like so. once thats good, you can then tension on like that or if you want more
mechanical advantage pay this out a lot
and run it through the grommet, back to
the end of the boom.
Right now. still rolling right? yeah. Right now we're
in the heavy air tuning, we started by
depowering the sail and now we're gonna
throw the tensioners on
as a result. so how does this system work
here? this tensions the front end of the
spar sideways and forward which stops it from blowing off too much to leeward
and bending too far aft, as a result
we're able to have a stiff proud mast to
something you need on a dinghy whereas
you wouldn't need on a windsurfer and this
has got a lot of windsurfer technology
in it so this is basically a translating
system this is your rig tension this is
your power so when I say this is a
heavy air tuning, what I mean is that we
already depowered the sail slightly by
pulling on some downhaul and some out
haul already and now we're applying the
tensioners so by default we're not going
to be able to get as much juice into the
sail so we're already biased 
so just everything on hard depower sail you
want more power
however the sequence which you put them
on in dictates a lot of it, so you set
this if you start with the cunningham
then go to the outhaul and then go to
the tensioners the tensioners lose that
fight and we end up with a flatter sail
you'll see it even more pronounceibly
as we add some cunningham here and
some more outhaul. there we go. that's very flat, not very cambered at all. that's a
good heavy air tuning up need to put the
lower baton it
yeah last piece of the puzzle yep just
three enough however if you want to put
it on light air tuning you can scrub the
system I mean I really really light our
tuning with a lot of camber. you scrub all
this pay it out as much as possible
same thing with the cunningham
turn everything to zero and start with the
tensioners. really wind them on. you
can if you're not very powerful
you can bowstring it like that and then
pull the bowstring it's like that you
can do that from inside the boat as well
or you can put your foot down on this
ring and pull up but you can do from
inside the boat but remember to put your
foot down in this ring because the whole
thing is held in place just by the
Cunningham so you can pull the mast
right out of the boat if you don't put
your foot down there. very important. all
right now that you've got the mast
essentially straight up till the hounds
you can then put on some cunningham
straighten that out a little bit and you
do want leach tension pull on some
outhaul, you can also bowstring this.
makes it a little easier to work
and now you have a sail with a stiff leach but with an 
enormous amount of camber in the middle
got a very powerful section if you're in
really light stuff and you're desperate
to fly this will work for you yeah I got
it
okay it's time to talk about ride height
which is more than anything more than
rig tuning more than well there's not
much else besides the basic rig tuning
more than anything this dictates whether you're in beginner mode
or expert mode and this is going to be
very important to your learning curve
essentially the UFO is stable when it's
down low because it has a hull there and a hull there
as you fly higher but if
you're flying still quite low there's
still a hull there and a hull there. it's
like having training wheels and if
they're close to the road they're quite
easy the higher you fly, the higher you
elevate the training wheels and so your
maximum capacity for roll goes up so in
beginner mode you want to keep the
training wheels close to the road and
that's ride height that's how high
you're flying. this wand dictates your
elevation above the water you're
determined your end elevation
above the water when you're flying
in essence works by dragging through the
water as it drags through the water
there's a tension rod in here which
pulls a push rod here which pushes that
flap down powering it up so as it drags
while you're going through the water it
wants to climb but as you climb it'll
actually decrease the amount of flap
angle on and it'll want to come down
again so it will reach a natural
equilibrium point roundabout there where
it's going between negative and positive
back and forth now obviously that point
there can be changed by how far this is
extended down this is simple friction
fit so if I put it around here I'm in
beginner mode but we'll fly but once
it's up that high it'll stop and come
back down
so this is set to fly about three inches
above the water just very early on add a
little bit more you've got your training
wheels a little bit higher but you can
fly a little bit higher roundabout
here's where I fly because you know I've
been doing this for a few years and if
you want to you know if knock yourself
out early on give it a shot but if
you're a beginner to foiling I highly
recommend starting with a low ride
height and keeping your training wheels
close to the road that's about that
awesome
