hey Jody here let's do it in a previous
video I showed a root pass technique
where I go forward and back using the
laywire technique and so I don't walk the
cup I just freehand with a TIG finger
straight forward straight back and then
also did a fill pass and a cover pass
free handing with a TIG finger and I'll
link those up right here but they look
something like this it's a good
technique walking the cup is a good
technique also you can't always walk the
cup because sometimes there are things
in the way both of them have their pros
and cons so for this video we're gonna
really tackle walking the cup and it
really helps to have different cup sizes
when you're walking the cup because
you've got all kinds of situations where
you got different wall thicknesses
different bevel angles and whatnot I
like to use these big large diameter gas
lenses and I'm gonna start off with a
number 6 cup cups are marked in
increments of 16 so a 6 cup is 6/16 or
3/8 on the inside diameter I like to
grip it different ways depending on the
situation but you want to select a cup
size that will wiggle on a hot pass just
about like this now sometimes you just
don't have a choice you're stuck with a
cup size it's not ideal here's a large
one at number 10 in which case you can
rock it listen to this that works pretty
good too
just whatever it takes but it really
does help to have a selection of cup
sizes I'm going to be using a 6 here for
the for the hot pass because it seems to
wiggle in there quite nicely when you're
in the groove like this the cup just
Wiggles well when you're out on a cover
pass it's more like a figure 8 like
walking a 55-gallon drum across a shop
floor so let's do the let's do the hot
pass 105 amps 1/8th inch er 309 L filler
ah because I'm welding carbon steel pipe
to a stainless steel flange not for any
real reason I just happen to get some
flanges without having to actually buy
them so I'm going to wind up making a
stand out of this thing for either a
vise for to hold test
while I will bone them and shoot video
your main goal on the hot passes to not
screw up the route pass since I'm using
stainless here normally I would keep the
purge going for the hot pass maybe even
the past after that but for the sake of
this thing since I've done a several
practice runs to get this video done to
get enough arc shots and whatnot
I pulled the purge hose out but it's
best practice to leave the purge on you
never know if you might actually only
get hung up get going too slow and melt
through and then you'll sugar on the
inside so you don't want to spend a
whole lot of time across the middle just
kind of go at a fairly good clip from
side to side and of course that comes
with a little practice when you're first
learning you want to get the technique
down first and then your speed will come
later I'm going a little bit slower than
probably I should here because I'm a
little bit out of practice one thing I
can see though is this this hot pass is
not filling it up quite as much as it
did in a previous video where I free
handed the hot pass so I'm gonna need
another fill pass on there before I'm
ready for a cover pass and so I'm gonna
jump up to another size larger cup I'm
gonna go from a six up to a number eight
here for the fill pass now this pass I'm
not riding on a groove or anything so I
am doing like a figure eight kind of
like rolling a 55-gallon drum across a
shop floor and the ripples in the weave
and the speed of progression are kind of
controlled by your wrist and how big a
steps you take each time you come across
a lot of that is a matter of preference
but some of its not sometimes you really
want to get finished with a if you're in
a pipe shop they don't care how narrow
the ripples are maybe they want that
thing done maybe you figure out a
technique where you increase your travel
speed and your ripples are spaced a
little farther apart and you get
finished quicker other than that a lot
of it is preference sometimes it's heat
input though now you see me I've got
this torch kind of held up tight toward
the cup kind of choked up on it I don't
always do that but this is this is
only three-inch pipe schedule 40 105
amps so the torch is not getting hot it
gives me a little bit more control and
like I said I'm a little bit out of
practice here so once I got more
comfortable with it I might grip it
further back on the neck it all depends
if this was a you know 36 inch heavy
wall joint with 2 inch wall thickness
I'd be great and gripping that thing way
down by the handle to to get my hand
away from the heat so different
different techniques for different
situations
well this fill pass is getting close to
being done and then we'll be ready for
the cover pass I like to let things cool
off for a little bit before I just come
back on with the cap pass this has got a
heavy flange here so it's quite a heat
sink so it's gonna cool off fairly
quickly but after it cools just a little
bit I'll give it a wire a wire brushing
like that and then while it's still good
and warm to the touch I didn't change my
amperage or anything I'm just going back
on it and I'm gonna put a cover pass on
there just about like this this is one
of those situations where I kind of wish
I had a 5/32 filler wire I'm using a 1/8
here a 5/32 would probably let me fill
it a little bit easier without having to
watch those toes so so closely because I
don't want to leave any underfill or any
undercut on those toes you can see a few
little areas that's just just wish there
was just a little bit more fill there so
I wouldn't have to watch him to make
sure there weren't any scalloped areas
that looked a little low again it's like
walking a 55-gallon drum across the shop
floor I'm using a foot pedal here today
for this joint so I just kind of trailed
out got more and more narrow as a
tapered off amperage to kind of comet
trail it out
alright let's wire brush that off really
quickly and then talk about some more
tips for walking the cup a little recap
if you will you can kind of get the
motor skills built by just doing a tea
joint fill it weld this this is the same
motion I might use on a route pass I
want to roll out joint and then once
you've got that root pass in there and
you can either dip or dual a wire it
doesn't really
matter you just good practice doing
either one once you get a root pass in
there like that you can also use the
metal up more by doing a second pass on
it this is very much like a hot pass
over top of a route and you could put
this T joint vertical or overhead or
however you wanted to to get to practice
again cup sizes is important also
electrode extension is important general
rule of thumb is start off with your
electrode extended just about what the
cup size is so a number six cup you'd
extend the electrode 6/16 I did this
video a while back just putting a big
chunk of stainless on a turntable just
to get some arc shots and show how that
works you can't always walk the cup for
every situation if this was a machine
shop job they might not want these
scratches that walk in the cup puts on
that nice surface of stainless steel but
for pipe when you're inside a bevel
doesn't matter
good practice anyway I know I used that
55-gallon drum analogy a lot but here's
another analogy sticking a pen inside a
Taco Bell cup this is what walking the
cup looks like except you're holding on
to a torch handle usually and cup size
really matters depending on the scenario
whether you're inside the bevel or out
on the surface you can get some practice
on out on the surface like you would on
a cover pass just get a smooth piece of
pipe round stock tubing whatever scribe
some lines or grind some lines and just
practice lightly holding the torch don't
grip it like a gorilla that's a big
mistake but lightly hold the torch just
so you can tell that you're putting
light pressure on that surface and then
something smooth like this if you put
too much pressure on it you'll scoot off
of it or slide off of it so it's good
just to get the feel without an arc
without a puddle just practice this
practice holding the torch upside down
like this because you will have to do it
if you're on a shipyard or in a power
plant or something you're going to get
in all kind of weird positions so
practice holding it sideways upside down
and walking it any which way it's good
to build those motor skills before you
start welding before the hood drops
there is a time in which you just have
to weld and then it's all different when
you flip the hood down everything
changes
but if you built those motor skills
it'll help and like I said before
earlier don't worry about the speed to
begin with the speed will come later
just get the motion down watch the
puddle watch the puddle watch the toes
of the weld make sure they're filling in
not leaving any undercut okay the rest
of this video shows a cup kit that I
added to my store yes it's a commercial
but I hope you'll stick around but there
will be lots of good art shots and
instructional stuff I'd like to take a
minute now and tell you about these two
kids there's a kit for nine and twenty
style torches and also a kit for
seventeen eighteen twenty six style
torches this kit has a cup for
practically every situation you would
encounter and I've used every single one
of these cups that's in this kit and
recommend every single one of them it is
basically all of the kits that I
currently sell packed into one big kit
and then some let's talk about why you
would want to use a gas lens to start
with this is a collet body for seventeen
and twenty six style torches first off
first upgrade I would recommend as a
stubby gas lens kit with that because
not only is it shrink the overall size
it just provides a better gas coverage
and gives you a longer stick out this is
a number eight collet body here with a
half-inch stick out didn't do so well
same stick out with the number eight gas
lens stubby gas lens did a lot better
and then you can see when I added the
jazzy tint to it it did even better I
really like using the number six stubby
gas lens for general aluminum welding it
lets me use a long stick out when I need
to but also doesn't give me too much gas
coverage kind of limits that itching
zone around the weld because where you
don't have gas you won't get that
etching zone the number eight clear pro
that you saw me use earlier in this
video is a great all-around cup for
steel stainless steel and aluminum
unless you use a long stick out but the
main benefit that I have found is just
great shielding and lets me see where
I'm going you can see me looking through
the cup here on this aluminum puddle
that's very helpful sometimes when you
get down in a corner it just lights the
way for me and helps me see the the seam
the crack the joint whatever
here you see this is me at working with
Mike Zhang cuñado on a bike frame
looking through that through that number
eight clear cup that's very helpful
sometimes to be able to do that it's not
always needed to be able to see through
the cup but man when you need it you
need it this kit also comes with large
diameter gas lens collet bodies and
wedge kaulitz wedge college don't have a
split in them they just have a wedge
they work great and they last a lot
longer than the split version this comes
with a six eight ten and twelve cup
which are great for walking the cup they
have lots of other uses they can be used
on steel as well as aluminum but they're
really good for walking the cup and if
that's something that you want to learn
how to do or if you're struggling with
it I've got two or three videos out
there just search my channel for walking
the cup TIG welding you'll find them but
whether you're walking the cup or not
these cups provide really good gas
shielding and if you're using an
air-cooled torch they add a little bit
of extra heatsink to the torch just to
keep it from getting so hot another cup
kit that's added in here is the number
five cup for aluminum it's a standard
collet body with no gas lens a lot of
people prefer this setup strictly for
aluminum I like to taper my electrode a
little bit and then ball it a little bit
for a whole lot of aluminum work that I
do it seems to get good arc starts has a
stable arc but also that number five cup
limits the amount of cleaning action
outside the puddle and it seems to
really focus that energy to the puddle
and makes it penetrate a little bit
better this is straight argon here but
man if you add just a little bit of
helium to that it really makes a
difference another cup that I really
have come to like as the Jazzy 10 it's a
number ten cup so it only requires about
twenty-two CFH here you see it doing a
titanium test plate even though it's
only a number ten cup I've got some
chill factor going on there with that A
Bomb fixture and pretty much made a
silver weld with that number ten this is
cold rolled steel but I'm using
Hastelloy C filler metal and look at
that big argon shielded area it's just
about a perfect sized cup for tich
brazing with silicon bronze or aluminum
bronze I like to use two pulses a second
actually
and a half to two pulses a second I
found works great you need your metal
clean and you also need a really good
argon shield and you'll get it with the
jazzy ten you can extend your electrode
out really far with the jazzy ten or
even farther with the ceramic 12 cup
using 3/4 of an inch electrode extension
is really nothing for this cup you can
go way over an inch with no trouble for
those times when you need to and you
don't always need to but you do
sometimes for getting down inside a hole
or something like that tight cluster
joints just areas where you you need a
long stick out and you need really good
shielding like on this stainless cope
tube joint right here the clear version
of this number 12 cup is also included
with a titanium shield on it you can use
it with or without the titanium shield
it's great for your average everyday
fill it welds with a long stick out
where you can see everything that's
going on you can see that a whole big
argon shielded area all around the weld
there a fill it will like this will help
trap argon so it's not that difficult to
get good shielding but on an edge weld
like this the the edge wants to split
the argon shield and so having a big
blanket of argon gas really helps on
edge welds like this I find it really
helps to use a pulse here I'm using 50
pulses a second 33 percent background 33
percent on time works great 25 cfh for
certain alloys mainly titanium you need
a even larger shield of gas than any of
these other cups this is a bbw the new
design and Michael Furyk is always
improving on his products but this one
works great for titanium this is a
titanium test joint just like you would
take for an aerospace job in a fixture
with backup gas on the back side no
discoloration at all and that's what
you're after with titanium this kit also
comes with an assortment of bat caps the
long one the short button and the
intermediate one along with a 1/16 332
and 1/8 2% lanthanide electrode for you
to try out this 9 and 20 style kit just
uses the smaller hardware but pretty
much uses all the same cups with the
same capabilities as the one for 17 18
26 this large gas lens here just
requires a
different heat shield so you can turn
your 9:20 style torch into something you
might want to walk the cup with if
you're in a fab shop and you have a 20
style water-cooled torch you want to use
a large gas lens like this now you got
it
so these are basically all the cups
you've seen me use in my videos over the
past few years all in one kit for almost
every situation learn more about the TIG
pro kit at weld monger comm thank you so
much for watching
you
