For over a thousand years pilgrims have
taken a journey through northern Spain
to Santiago de Compostela, in the
northwest province of Galicia. The great
Cathedral in this town is believed to
house the relics of Christ's Apostle
James the Greater.
Today over 300,000 people from around
the world take the journey each year.
Each has their own intentions.
Some see it as a chance to get away from the stresses of daily life, to take a step
back and gain a new perspective and self
understanding. For others it is a chance
to take a challenging hike through
beautiful natural settings and to
immerse themselves in Spanish culture.
For yet others it is a way to honor a
loved one and perhaps pray for their
healing and deliverance from suffering.
Whatever the personal motivations, the
Way of St. James or Camino de Santiago
is a pilgrimage where travelers encounter
history, stunning natural landscapes and
monuments to faith and the power of
religious ritual.
But most importantly it is a journey
during which pilgrims, on foot and
bicycle, alone or in groups, experience a
common humanity that transcends national,
ethnic, religious and socio-economic
boundaries. On this ancient path, pilgrims
share life's joys and sufferings and are
swept up in a spirit of service that
both renews and transforms their lives.
This documentary examines the varied
experiences of contemporary pilgrims
in their own words. At the same time it
locates travelers within a broader
context of historical events, traditional
rituals, and sacred spaces that often
both shape and orient these pilgrims
experiences. For those who are
considering the pilgrimage themselves
this film is designed to give an
overview of what they might encounter
and how they might prepare for the
journey.
The origins of the Camino are in the
pre-Christian period, when an ancient
Celtic pathway to the end of the known
world became the foundation for a Roman
road that served both military and
commercial purposes.
Beginning in the medieval period, many pilgrims began their Camino journeys in different parts
of Europe, especially French towns such
as Vezelay, Paris, Cluny, and Arles.
Today, a small number of pilgrims still begin their walk far from the Spanish border,
but most follow a route - known as the
French Way - which begins in a small town
in the French Pyrenees called Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
Every day pilgrims arrive by train and make their way by foot into the old city.
There are shops for last-minute gear and
various hostels to stay the night.
Pilgrims meet fellow travelers and
share questions, information and fellowship.
I'm not used to finding my own
way, this is my first time on my own
so I arrived and I didn't know where to sleep. And I spent maybe an hour and 15
minutes trying to find my way and I
finally got there and these guys were
sitting and having their dinner and they
kind of said like oh it's good you
came because we have too much food and
we're kind expecting you to come in and they invite me for a bit wine, bread, soup, cheese, everything, and kind of gave me the insides of their stories.
So I think I was received very well, I got a room for myself because the owner he didn't want
me to sleep with a bunch of guys. And he
walked me like the first few steps and
then gave me kiss on both cheeks and
wished me a good Camino.
I think that got me started thinking, I
was meant to walk this path.
The next day they begin their walk at
this marker under an arch that has long
served as the starting point for the
journey. Pilgrims are excited to begin
their adventure. Each has their own story.
This was cooked up better part of a year ago. I was just leaving from North Georgia to walk on the Appalachian Trail
through hike and I asked my son if he
when he graduated high school this year if he would be interested in spending six
weeks or so with his dad at the age of
18 and go on a trek so we cooked it up
about a year ago. I don't know I think
it's more of a father-son
bonding kind of thing. We live in
different states so this is really big
to get to come out here and spend six weeks pretty much tied together at the hip and walking through Europe.
Many travelers
next proceed to an office where they
register for the pilgrims passport. This
passport will be stamped at hostels
churches and restaurants along the way
and provides proof that pilgrims have
walked the required distance once they
arrive in Santiago.
To the sound of morning church bells pilgrims then walk through the town alone or in groups.
Some make the journey on bicycles, which is especially challenging the first day,
when the Camino ascends to a mountain
pass before its long descent to the Spanish plains.
This part of the Camino
goes through the Basque region,
so the signs are in French, Spanish and Basque.
The Basque language is unique and is unrelated to any other human language.
After crossing the Spanish border, pilgrims come to this church and historical monument. The stone marks the
battlefield where Charlemagne's rear
guard was destroyed by Basque tribes in 778.
The battle is memorialized in the
medieval epic poem, the Song of Roland,
in which Charlemagne's nephew Roland dies a hero's death. In the epic, a Moorish army
is substituted for the Basque tribes,
likely for political reasons.
The Camino is largely downhill from here to
Pamplona with the first hostel found in
the village of Roncevalles, which sits
at an altitude of 3,000 feet. It provides
a place to rest weary legs and feet
after the rigorous climb up the pass.
How was the trip up the mountain?
It was a little tough at first but
honestly the view was worth it every
time you get up there and you'd get
energy basically from the views. Incomparable beauty try to take pictures
but it just can't do it justice. I just stopping and hearing God's word in this busy world.
Get too caught up in work and too caught up in other things,
it's just great to take some time
out and reflect on things.
I watched the movie The Way and that kind of got me to know it and then I kind of joked to my dad about it,
hey, we could do that and then it became
a reality a year later and we started
planning and now we're here.
I'm a Christian, I'm a follower of Jesus and
that's also what I grew up in.
That is not, I'm not a Catholic
or so doing a pilgrimage right now,
but I think it really fits for a
Christian something like this,
to kind of give up your home and your permanent location to travel bit as a pilgrim for a while,
as I believe it's also how Jesus
lived.
I think especially it's about the people that my impression, a lot of nice people I've met, a lot of good
talks, though I'm kind of tired all the
time so I don't spend too much time with anyone.
I think everyone is very hospitable towards each other so it's, like we're one group.
Well I believe that
as I travel this it will not only impact
my physical, how I feel and how my body's doing but
also my soul my spirit will make a
journey.
Most pilgrims spend the night in a large hostel that began in the 12th century as a hospital and monastery
designed to serve Camino pilgrims.
Travelers can prepare their own food or
eat at local restaurants.
The town features a fine example of
French Gothic architecture, St. Mary's
Collegiate Church built in the late 12th
century.
The church has three naves, vaulted arches and large Gothic windows adorned with modern glass.
The high altar features this image of Santa Maria de Roncesvalles, which dates to the 14th century.
The Gothic sculpture is
constructed of silver covered wood and
decorated in gold.
A cloisters nearby leads to St. Augustine's Chapel.
Here pilgrims can view the 13th century
Gothic tomb of King Sancho the Strong.
The seven foot three inch king was a
formidable warrior against Muslim
kingdoms to the south and an early
champion of the Jewish community and of
human rights.
The chapel's 20th-century
stained glass depicts Sancho's victory
in the Battle of Navas de Tolosa in
Andalucia. The battle was an important
milestone in the Reconquista of Spain
for Christianity.
 
Many travelers attend the pilgrims Mass held each evening in the Church of Santa Maria.These services
are offered in most towns along the
Camino and priests from around the world
participate and offer words of
encouragement for pilgrims in their own languages.
Catholics and non-catholics
believers and non-believers are all welcome.
The oldest structure in Roncesvalles is the 12th century Chapel of the Holy Spirit.
According to local tradition this is where Roland died
after his defeat by the Basque tribes.
The early Gothic Church of Santiago stands
next to the chapel and houses a bell
from the Hermitage of San Salvador of Ibaneta,
who served as a guide for
pilgrims on foggy days.
Early in the morning
pilgrims rise and begin the day with
silent reflection before beginning their
journey through the Basque province.
They pass through the town of Burguete,
where the novelist Ernest Hemingway
spent a fishing vacation during his time
in Spain. He gives a version of the visit
in his novel, The Sun Also Rises. The town
has a checkered history and is infamous
for its public Witchcraft Trials in the
16th century. On June 19, 1525 in the town
square the Inquisition burned five alleged
witches at the stake. The records of
these trials have been preserved and
give a sobering account of the
persecutions and injustices of this period.
The trek downhill through the picturesque villages of Navarre presents
its own challenges to pilgrims. A little more
challenging I think than we expected, the
downhill. Beautiful views, wonderful
people. We did good, seven hours I think.
Yeah the uphill was not bad, at all. It was just the the downhill was real hard on you. A lot of surreal moments, standing there
trying to figure that we're actually
standing in France and then Spain, it was awesome.
People were super accommodating at the
albergue, I had a wonderful dinner
last night. They actually separated us by chance so
he sat at a different table and talked with people from--Japan, Ireland, France, America, so that was kinda neat.
Some Americans, some French at our table. There's a central theme, everybody's walking, nobody cares
what anybody is or where they came from
per se, they just all walk together.
Anything that kind of stuck out to you? I
don't know just kind of the sense of
community like he's talking about. People are a lot more friendly and open. It's a lot
easier to start a conversation with
people than it would be back home.
This is an education every time we stop and sit down and everybody's willing to talk.
The Camino passes through Pamplona, the
capital of Navarre. Just to the south of
the city pilgrims can see this
well-preserved Roman aqueduct.
The scallop shell has long been a symbol of the Camino. The shell references
traditions about the miraculous
appearance of St. James's relics off the
west coast of Galicia. Travelers see the
scallop on various signs along the route
and often attach a shell to their
backpacks signaling their status as pilgrims.
 
Pilgrims soon discover they need a
poncho or umbrella as rain is always a
possibility in northern Spain,
particularly in the mountains.
They also learn that walking 25 kilometers a day can lead to a host of foot, ankle and
knee problems. Blisters are the most
common complaint. The suffering many
pilgrims experience fosters a spirit of
resilience, community and compassion.
And then my toes actually had a blister but it's split and now the skin's literally coming off.
Yeah, it's pretty bad. So did you start wearing those just--Oh this morning.
We bought them yesterday at the pharmacy and then I let 'em dry out last night. And are they helping?  A little bit, it still hurts pretty bad. But you know what, I'm gonna do it.
I remember a few years ago I was walking on the way and there was a woman from Spain and she was sitting on one of the embankments and
she was just in a terrible way really--
her feet-she obviously hadn't broken in the
boots properly and she was very upset.
And there was a German woman who was
a nurse and she was trying to sort things
out but she didn't have any first aid
kit with her and I a first aid kit and
the German lady didn't speak any Spanish
and the Spanish lady didn't speak any German but between the three of us we were able to
kind of bathe her feet for want of a better word and put her back on the way.
And the thing is it doesn't matter if
someone is a card-carrying Roman
Catholic or a hardcore atheist. As long as someone comes with the sense of openness to what
the way has to offer--
it's that kind of experience that
welcomes everybody.
I suffer from arthritis in both my knees and my left one seems to suffer the greatest and
it's taken me probably five weeks to
travel here--half of that journey was
spent in an incredible sense of pain. And
I met this lovely young Irish girl, Amy
Armstrong, and she spent a few days
with us and the last few days of
those three weeks I was in incredible
pain and she offered to give me a leg
massage. And my friends made fun of me
because as she was massaging my leg I was
almost on the verge of tears. And she's
become my trail angel because from that day forward,
every day my journey has gotten
more and more comfortable. I almost feel
like I experience little to no pain at
all--a certain degree of discomfort at times
but I've made incredible progress and I
probably would not have made it this far
if I had not met Amy and Amy had not given me that special massage that got me here.
I see a pregnant woman lady yesterday
walking and carrying a child and I thought, wow.
So I stopped complaining about my blisters and said wow it's amazing you know,
it just shows the parents' love--even though they are tired they continue on. So have you had
some blister issues? Yeah I had it on
the second day and I remember going to mass at the end of the second day and
I was like, oh you know in slippers, my foot was hurting and I was going to receive
Communion and I saw this thing hanging
on the altar on the works of mercy and
one of them was sufrir con paciencia,
to suffer with patience. And I thought well
okay, if that's your message for me Lord, then yeah, I will suffer with patience. Yeah because we are so used to being
so quick and instant that we forget that sometimes our Lord just wants us to suffer with Him a little bit,
and not just get a quick recovery.
And I think my sufferings are minute compared with what people are suffering.
But I think I've come to understand
maybe the hearts of these
people who are suffering a little bit
more, be more sensitive to their needs.
South of Pamplona the Camino moves along rolling hills and lower elevations. Near the town of Puente de la Reina
is a 12th Century Romanesque Church, Santa Maria de Eunate. The church has an unusual octagonal plan
and is located in open landscape near a
small river. Some scholars believe it was
originally built and used by either the
Knights Templars or the Order of St. John
as a hostel and refuge for pilgrims.
The church is surrounded by an arcaded
gallery of 33 arches and these carved
figures set above its eight walls.
The elaborate doorway facing the Camino
opens into a serene interior with
typical features of Romanesque
architecture, including dressed
stone masonry, semicircular arches and
small alabaster windows. The eight walls
buttress an eight-ribbed vault,
inspired by the Caliphate art of Cordova.
The five sided apse has as its central
figure the image of Santa Maria de Eunate.
Local Catholics come here
during the annual Romeria, a pilgrimage
procession that includes singing,
feasting and dancing.
You have the church itself--building and you have kind of walls around the church and between the
building and the walls I could
breathe a special atmosphere when I was
on my own. Eunate is a very interesting place.
The nearby town of Puente de la Reina,
Bridge of the Queen, was built in the
12th century as a pilgrimage resting
place.
The graceful 11th century bridge was the
first piece of construction in the area.
It was built by Queen Munadona to
assist pilgrims in crossing the river Arga.
This sturdy structure has six midpoint
arches, one of which is underground. It is
an impressive example of Romanesque
engineering that remains a milestone for
Camino travelers. Peregrinos enter the
town from the east and often stop at
this hostel for the night.
Across the square is the Church of the Cross, which
was originally built by the Knights Templars.
The Romanesque doorway is
elaborately decorated and includes
scallop shells on its central archivolt.
The most striking feature of the
interior is an unusual Y-shaped wooden
crucifix. One tradition claims that it
was a gift from some German pilgrims who
carried it on their shoulders on their
way to Santiago. Pilgrims make their way
along the picturesque Main Avenue with
its historic houses and outdoor cafes.
They often stop at the Church of
Santiago with its striking Romanesque
doorway.
and polychrome carving of St.
James the Greater.
Visitors who arrive here between July 24th and July 30th can participate in the traditional
festivities of the town's patron saint.
Travelers leave the town across its historic bridge and head toward Estella. This city was established in 1090 with
royal patronage to provide services for
Camino pilgrims. During the late Middle Ages,
Estella was home to the royal court
and a thriving political, religious and
economic center for the region. French,
Jewish and Navarre settlers each brought
their own architectural and cultural
traditions with them.
The town's prosperity allowed for the
construction of Gothic masterpieces like
Santo Sepulcro, which lies along the Ega
River. The Camino passes directly
opposite the church's front side, which
features this tympanum with scenes from
the life and death of Christ and
sculptures of the Twelve Apostles.
Nearby is the pointed bridge, a structure
of medieval origin with a single arch
and two steep sides. The  bridge was
destroyed in an 1873 battle and rebuilt in 1975.
Pilgrims enter the narrow
medieval streets of the old town and
find shelter in the local albergue.
Those who wish to explore the town's
historic center find charming apartments,
balconies and verandas and several
architectural gems. In the plaza de San
Martín sits this 12th century Palace of
the Kings of Navarre, which now serves as
a headquarters for a local museum.
The palace faces a great staircase at
the top of which lies the Cistercian
church of San Pedro de la Rúa.
The church sits next to a serene
12th-century cloister. Its graceful,
semicircular arches and capitals are
decorated with these geometrical and
mythological animal and plant motifs.
The church's rather dim interior has some
beautiful stained glass windows and this
statue of Saint James the pilgrim. The
growing interest in the Camino over the
past 30 years has fueled an economic
resurgence in regions through which the
route passes. Local craftspeople like
this iron worker sell souvenirs, jewelry,
artwork and other crafts to the many
pilgrims that walk past their stalls
during the main season from April to
October.
The landscape in this part of Navarre is
breathtaking and allows for side trips
to picturesque villages and natural
parks in the area.
Los Arcos, a municipality of around a thousand people, is a popular pilgrim destination on the
long walk to Burgos. Travelers who began
in Saint Jean have been on the road for
about six days and are taking stock of
their experiences so far.
I had been to Santiago--my daughter
was studying in Madrid and I didn't
understand what the hikers were that
were coming into town. But when I
researched it and found out for some
reason or other my heart just felt
that's for me. I almost felt like called
to it and then as I just went through
some journeys in my life it felt like
that was the next step to take which
should make a journey of my own. This is
only like our sixth day--our sixth day
so I think the first thing that comes to
mind is that I I was capable of doing
what I did climbing up those Pyrenees
Mountains because if I would have been
with my husband or one of the kids I
would have said, I'm not doing that, I'm done, I'm tired
but because I wasn't I had to find strength
inside myself to say--I'm gonna do this, I can do this. So I think that was good.
Going up was very difficult but coming
down also had its challenges because it put
so much pressure onto your
knees and your--so that has challenges too.
It wasn't like we're going down,
it was strenuous as well.
With every church that we've seen I will always go in, say a short little prayer if I can, yeah, definitely.
So what's that been like going to the pilgrim's masses? Wonderful, wonderful I love it. You know we have all
these people from all over the world--
I mean from so many different countries
and we all come together as one and
that's the way it should be, you know we
should all have that feeling, yeah. Do you
have any special intention at this point
for when you reach Santiago, something you'd like to have realized or accomplished?
Maybe I hope and pray that my
kids will have as strong a faith as I do.
They're in their twenties, and I just hope and pray that they will feel that peace that I do.
I think, you know, the problems of the Catholic Church you know--they don't like what's going on. They believe in God, they have a faith, but I think that they
should also have a little bit of
structure. Everybody needs a little bit
of structure. When I go back home I'm going to encourage them to do it.
I mean I would even say that this should be something that a young couple should do on their honeymoon.
I've actually felt that when  I was doing this. I think that it would bring a couple closer together. Even though you're sharing a room with many people, I think that even as a couple it would make you stronger, by far, yeah.
Our bodies aren't happy with us and
here they get happy with you after a week or two and it really feels tremendous, I love it.
I love the just kind of flow of it, you know
it is like some people will make
lifelong friends here and some people
will just be somebody you meet for two
days and and you click with and but then
they move on and you move on and
neither way seems important. It's just we
are like people here at the same time
being kind and and having an adventure really.
I don't know what's not to like about that.
It's just wonderful to leave your life behind and be yourself in a different environment for a while.
You really look at the sky, which you forget to look at it home
and you really notice it because you're
under it all day long. And you know,
the changing landscape, it's beautiful here right now, in Spring. I think one of the interesting features of
this beginning part of the Camino is
that this is kind of where people hook
up and where they meet each other and where
they're most open to doing that.
And so between St. Jean and really about here, a lot of the groups that are
gonna walk together have formed, you know and later on I think it becomes a little
bit harder to click in so this is it, don't miss your
opportunity to meet people and find
somebody if you want to walk with
somebody in this first stretch.
I met Julie who lives in Milan,
who had a ten year period of just being very
unwell and not being able to figure
out--doctors couldn't figure out what
it was. She finally was diagnosed
correctly so she could be treated, so she's on the mend and she feels that her
period of unwellness is over. And after
she felt that this period of unwellness
was over she said the Virgin Mary came
to her in a vision right before waking
and said to her, come with me, and Julie
felt it was a true call and she packed
her bag and she went to Lourdes and went
through the healing rituals in Lourdes and
it was a powerful experience for her and
then she had another vision there and
the Virgin said to her, walk with me,
and so she's having her suitcase
transported between stops and she's
walking the Camino and she told me that
every night she prays, you called and I came, kind of looking for, you know,
and that's it, that's her prayer, you called me and I came.
And so she is figuring it out as
she goes.
I think also people come here to advance their grieving process for
something or another as well as 
for health issues and they can feel that this
will help them move along the road with all the griefs that we are heir to.
As Pilgrims cross into Rioja province, known for its wines, they come to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, the seat
of the bishops of Calzada and Logroño
since 1232. The town owes its
existence to a local hermit born in 1019,
who failed at his monastic studies and
so decided to dedicate his life to the
service of Camino pilgrims.
During his 90-year lifespan the saint
built first a wooden and then a stone
bridge so that pilgrims would not have
to wade across the river Oja.
He also constructed a hospital complex, which today has been transformed into this luxury hotel.
In front of the hotel is this monument built in 1971 by
the sculptor, Vicente Ochoa. The central
figure is a pilgrim dressed in
traditional garb. His symbols are a staff,
a hollowed-out gourd for drinking water,
a travel pouch, and the traditional cape
decorated with scallop shells. Behind him
are sculptures of the Santiago cross and
scenes from Saint Dominic's life.
The saint became the patron of engineers and the elderly. The town's landscape is
dominated by this 18th century Baroque
tower, which pilgrims can climb to get a
panoramic vista of the town centre and
the surrounding countryside. Next to it
is the famed Cathedral of Santo Domingo,
which contains Romanesque, Gothic and
Baroque elements. A second 13th century
entrance dedicated to Saint Peter
consists of seven smooth archivolts
that project out from the door.
The interior of the church contains the
tomb of Santo Domingo with its covering
masterpiece of medieval funerary
sculpture. The tomb was a recommended
shrine for pilgrims dating back to the
12th century Codex Calixtinus.
This illuminated manuscript is considered by scholars to be the original guide to the Camino.
The shrine also contains this
more recent sculpture of the saint
standing beneath a silver arch.
The church's Gothic interior allows abundant
light to fall upon the church's altar,
nave and ambulatory. In the early 20th
century, a false crypt was added to house
the relics of Santo Domingo. The small
chamber is accessible down these stairs
and was designed for pilgrims to walk
around the tomb in the style of a
traditional ambulatory.
On the wall opposite the staircase is this chicken coop with a live rooster and hen inside.
This unusual structure, which has a Papal
permit, has its origins in a medieval
miracle story involving Santo Domingo.
According to the tradition a German
couple and their 18 year old son were
walking to Santiago and stopped in the
town to pay homage to the relics of
Santo Domingo. At the inn that evening
the owner's daughter felt hopelessly in
love with the teenage son but her
affections were not reciprocated.
To exact vengeance for her suffering
the daughter planted a silver vessel in
the youth's baggage.
The next day she reported the missing
cup, and it was discovered in the son's possession.
An act of thievery was punished by hanging during this era,
and the youth was executed forthwith.
His grieving parents continued their journey
to Santiago and on their way home
stopped again in Santo Domingo to visit
his grave. When they arrived in the town
they were shocked to see their son still
hanging on the gallows and alive. The
excited son cried out to them, Santo Domingo
has brought me back to life. Please go to the mayor's house and ask
him to take me down. His parents ran
quickly to the official's home, found him
at dinner and reported their son's
request. He answered, that boy is as alive
as these two roast chickens on my table.
At once the chickens sprouted feathers
and beaks and began to crow. The boy was
cut down and the family returned in joy to Germany.
One of the chapels in the cathedral has this image of Santiago as
Matamoros, the Slayer of the Moors.
Representations of Santiago in this form
are found in many churches along the
Camino. They reference a miraculous
figure who appeared on a white horse at
the legendary Battle of Clavijo and
helped the Christian army defeat the
Moors.
The story has been shown to be invented
centuries after the alleged battle took place.
Though based on legend, this icon
came to represent Spain's national
identity as the protector of the
Catholic faith from its enemies.
Santiago was named the patron saint of Spain in the 17th century but was demoted to
patron of the Spaniards by Pope Clement
XIII a century later. In his place the
Immaculate Conception was declared
patroness of Spain as a country.
The icon of Matamoros has receded in
importance in today's more secular Spain
and as the country's Muslim population
has steadily increased.
The Matamoros statue at the Cathedral of Santiago was slated for removal after the
Madrid train bombings of 2004, but the decision was reversed following a public outcry.
In the 17th century this chapel was
built. It contains the relics of many
Catholic martyrs. Pilgrimage to the
reliquaries of saints was a common
practice for Christians during the
medieval era.
It was widely believed that
the Saints blessing was especially
accessible at these shrines.
The Camino between Santo Domingo and
Burgos flattens out and is filled with
picturesque landscapes, wheat fields and
historic stone houses.
At Belorado, the trail crosses next to
this medieval stone bridge
over the river Tiron.
Soon the twin spires of
Burgos Cathedral come into view.
Burgos is a thriving commercial, cultural
and political center and has played a
significant role in Spanish history
since its founding in 884.
By the 11th century, Burgos had become the capital of the kingdom of Castile.
Its various rulers played a dominant role in the reconquest of Spain. The Spanish language
in its classical form originates in this
area. Although many dialects of Spanish
exist in the world, it is said that the
purest form of the language is found in
this region. The Cathedral of Santa Maria
is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture
and sits in the city's center. Declared a
World Heritage Site in 1984, it is a
must-see stop for pilgrims and tourists,
many of whom have their photos taken
next to this metal statue in the main
square. The city provides a welcome
hiatus for weary hikers who need a few
days rest. Some pilgrims begin their
Camino here or resume a Camino from past years.
The cathedral's famed western facade draws its inspiration from
contemporaneous facades at cathedrals in Paris and other cities in France.
At the ground level, the 13th century
portal of St. Mary consists of three
pointed arches. The right door is used by
travelers who attend the evening
pilgrim's mass in a chapel just inside and to 
the right.
The facade's 13th century
second level contains a Cistercian-inspired rosette, with tracery depicting
a seal of Solomon or six pointed star. This symbol, which repeats the six
pointed star above the middle portal, was
used as a protective talisman in
Medieval and Renaissance-era magic and
alchemy and denoted mastery over spirit
beings and the ability to communicate
with the animal kingdom.
The third level features this elegant gallery containing
statues of the first eight kings of
Castile and above it a representation of
the Virgin and Child. Two identical
towers rise up on both sides and are
topped with finely fretted spires
created by the German master John of
Cologne.
The Gothic Sarmental door is the one
most used by visitors and opens out into
the Plaza del Rey. This 13th-century
portal features a well-preserved
tympanum with Jesus enthroned in majesty holding the tablets of the law
and surrounded by the four evangelists. The evangelists are represented both
symbolically as the lion, bull, eagle and angel, and as
humans writing the Gospels at their
desks. The tympanum is surrounded by
three archivolts displaying the
twenty-four elders of the apocalypse and
several choirs of angels. Underneath the
evangelists are statues of the 12
apostles and the figures of Aaron and
Moses.
The highlights of the interior include the star-vaulted central dome,
the ornate domes of the side chapels,
the Virgin crowned in glory from the gold
encrusted main altarpiece,
the wood-carved renaissance choir stalls, the peaceful cloister, and the alabaster
tomb sculptures of the children of Ferdinand and Isabella. Beneath the main dome is
the tomb of El Cid, Spain's national hero
and the leader of successful military
campaigns against the Moorish kingdoms
of Andalucia.
Pilgrims also can visit the convent of Santa Maria de Huelgas, an architectural gem that
today houses a small group of reformed
Cistercian nuns. The nuns follow a more
rigorous practice of the Rule of Saint
Benedict, with frequent and lengthy fasts and vigils.
The abbey was established by Pope
Clement III in 1187 and dedicated to the
Virgin Mary. From an early period it
enjoyed the patronage of the kings and
queens of Castile and became the burial
place of the royal family and a
repository of their religious treasures.
The ornate royal tombs are still housed
in the Abbey Church as seen in this 19th century etching.
Among the many treasures found in the convent
are this ornate fountain and the well preserved Romanesque cloister, with its graceful
pillars and decorated capitals. This
unusual statue of Christ was used to
grant royal authority by moving its
right arm up and down with a sword.
These historical sites along the Camino can have an unexpected impact on today's pilgrims.
It's interesting, like a number of the young
people with me wouldn't be necessarily
weekly mass goers or even monthly mass goers.
But we were talking about it last night and they said they had a very felt experience of
walking in the footsteps of hundreds of
thousands and millions of pilgrims going
back through history over thousands of years making their way to
Santiago and they're part of that story now
and it had a profound effect on them
because I think in some ways as blessed
as we are in this world today one of our
greatest problems is of disconnection,
so people really struggle to find where
they belong and here belonging comes
very easily and I think that's maybe one
of the greatest gifts of the Camino.
For other peregrinos the churches and historical monuments are secondary to the human
kindness and connections they find
walking the way.
I mean what I've found as well is, I've forgotten the names of the towns and villages
because they're just places to me. It's the feelings that I've had that are much more
important than the town name or church.
I mean Steve himself has received lots of help along the way. One chap with his blisters and...
I don't think I probably would have made it if people didn't give me the proper advice. 'Cause you gotta listen to people cause they know.
And they're all doin' it with a good intention, no ulterior motives. I mean I knew before I done this but I don't know why but
I thought I was gonna be in pain when
I was gonna do it but since day one I have been
in really bad pain but I've had the time of my life, and I want to do it again.
For me it was about seeing people going through this journey and finding the strength to continue
and reflecting on things within their
life or things they wanted to achieve
with their life. I thought a lot about my
mom and my grandmother just because
they're for me tied to my spirituality
and my strength as a person and really
regaining a trusting in humanity I think, seeing the positivity on the trail, smiles
when someone says, buen camino and regardless of their state or how tired they are.
Pilgrims next walk to Carrion de los
Condes and Sahagun.
This stretch is considered to be
one of the most difficult because there are few
pilgrim services and it can be quite hot
in the middle of summer.
Because of the low ambient light and arid environment, stargazers have a clear view
of the Milky Way in the early morning.
Carrion de los Condes is a small town
with a popular hostel run by nuns. The
nuns organize a concert every night and
invite pilgrims to sing songs from their
own countries. The 12th century Church of
Santiago was rebuilt in 1845 after being
destroyed in a war against the French.
Pilgrims can climb the bell tower and
enjoy a panoramic vista of the town,
which has roots in the Roman and
Visigothic periods. The museum inside
features this 13th century polychrome
statue of Our Lady of Pilgrims and a
statue of Santiago as Matamoros.
An image of the woman crowned with twelve stars standing on the moon from the Book of
Revelation displays a common feature of
Baroque Spanish icons, real human hair.
Pilgrims next come to Sahagun, once a
thriving market town with over 30
Romanesque churches. The site has
significance for peregrinos simply by
the fact that it is about seven
kilometers from the geographical halfway
point between Roncesvalles and
Santiago de Compostela. The actual midway
point is this chapel dedicated to the
Virgin of the Bridge. The chapel is what
remains of a former pilgrim's hospice and
cemetery.
Founded in the 8th century along with
the monastery of St. Benedict, Sahagun's
fortunes began to decline at the end of
the 15th century along with the Camino itself.
The town has seen a revival with
the Camino's modern resurgence and now
has a variety of hostels and cafes.
The town also features some restored architectural gems related to the Mudejar style. This style is unique to
the history of Spain and represents a
meeting point between Christian and
Islamic materials, techniques, and formal
elements.
The best example of this style
is the Church of Santa Tirso, with its
semicircular arches, graceful porticos,
brickwork and tiles that illustrate Mujedar's fusion of Romanesque and Moorish elements.
The nearby Shrine of Our Lady
of pilgrims sits on a small hill
overlooking the town at a spot where the
French Way intersects with the Madrid Way.
 
During the 13th century it was a
Franciscan convent of some significance.
Today it is an educational center and
exhibition hall for modern art as well
as the place where pilgrims can get the
Carta Peregrin, a certificate
verifying their visit to this halfway
point. A side chapel is decorated with
the geometric and floral designs
characteristic of Moorish plaster works.
On the main altar is this statue of the
Virgin of Pilgrims, which wears a set of
clothes that is changed periodically
and jewels that were gifts from over the centuries.
She also wears symbols of the
Camino including a cane, satchel and shell.
Like other Baroque statues the
hair is real, in this case a donation
from a young girl with leukemia. During
the procession on her feast day of July 2nd,
the Virgin sports a wide-brimmed hat
and  her jewels are removed.
As the weeks roll by, the Camino passport verifying that one has walked the required distance begins to fill in.
But for many pilgrims the passport's importance fades
and the relationships with other
peregrinos become their most significant
experiences.
The first couple of days I was the first
one at all of our base camps, and I
wasn't talking to anybody at that point.
I would occasionally stop by and chat with
people. But I would just walk into a
cafe, get a stamp to show that I'd been on the Camino, leave, go to the next point,
try to go as fast possible. And I was really
just thinking point A to point B to point
C, trying to get it all done like a list.
I'm very organized normally so I
was trying to just tick it all off. And the
more I walked the Camino, the more
I realized that the people around me were the most interesting part. It's not trying to get
to Sarria or any of these other towns
that I'm trying to get to and tick off
these boxes. It taught me more to enjoy
living in the moment. If I walked past these people
I might never hear their stories and their stories are fascinating and they teach
me so much so I think the Camino was a
space, almost like a timeless space,
I didn't have to worry about some deadline I'd created in my mind,  about getting to this next point. We'd all get there eventually, we're all walking together so
so why not enjoy the community. So I also ended up always being last because I was chatting with people.
There's a definite sense of caring for each other and so overwhelming that it affects you that
you can't help but take that on.
The city of Leon has its origins as a Roman military settlement.
In 910 it became the
capital of the kingdom of Leon and
played a prominent role during the
Reconquista. The city created the first
European Parliament in 1188 and was
recognized for this by UNESCO in 2013.
It continues to be a popular resting
place for pilgrims and features several
architectural masterpieces. The first of
these is the Casa Botines, created by
Antoni Gaudí to harmonize architecturally
with the city's Gothic cathedral.
Its neo-gothic elements include medieval
looking towers on its four corners and
the sculpture of St. George slaying a
dragon that sits above the portal of the
main facade. A short distance from this
structure is the magnificent Cathedral
of Santa Maria, a Gothic edifice built
over a Roman bath complex and opened in 1302.
The cathedral's design is by the
same master, Enrique, who worked on
Burgos Cathedral. Called the Pulchra Leonina, or beauty of Lyon, it is also
considered to be the most French of
Spanish cathedrals. Because of the poor
quality of limestone used in its
construction and the moisture coming
from its foundations, the Cathedral has
undergone frequent restorations during
its lifespan.
The main facade features two massive
towers, a large rose window, three portals
decorated with sculptures including the
Last Judgement, and the statue of the White Virgin.
The most admired elements
of the interior are the nearly 1,800
square meters of stained glass windows,
the majority of which date from the 13th
to the 15th centuries. The blue colors
especially stand out and are considered
one of the rare treasures of the
Cathedral. The glass has undergone a
meticulous cleaning over the past 10
years. Another interior masterwork is
this neo-gothic altarpiece that
incorporates five panels from an older
altarpiece created in the Flemish Gothic
style.
Pilgrims also visit the Collegiate
Church of San Isidore, a place of great
historical and artistic significance.
The original structure, built over a Roman
temple to Mercury, was destroyed during a
Moorish invasion and rebuilt during the
11th and 12th centuries.
The new monastery and Chapel gained prominence when the relics of San Isidore
were brought from Seville and installed in
1063. Isidore was the most celebrated
theologian and Archbishop of Visigothic
Spain.
This statue of this saint as Matamoros
dominates the church's facade. The facade
is also decorated with these
representations of the signs of the zodiac,
a common feature of Romanesque
and Gothic doorways.
The chapel inside was chosen as the site of the royal burial chamber for the house of Leon in
the 11th century. Today it is a museum
that houses the tombs of eleven kings
and many queens and nobles. This
Romanesque funeral chapel features
columns crowned with rare Visigothic
capitals and well-preserved 12th century
painted murals depicting New Testament
themes and scenes of rural life.
The Church museum holds among its treasures the chalice of Dona Urraca.
Urraca was the daughter of Ferdinand the Great and a contemporary of El Cid. After an active
life of royal intrigue, she donated the
chalice and her royal jewels to the
church and entered a convent in Leon
just prior to her death in 1101.
The Kings of the Grail, published in 2014,
claims the chalice was made in the early
Christian era and was preserved in the
early Christian community of Jerusalem.
It found its way to Cairo during the
Crusades and was then gifted to
Ferdinand as a peace offering by a
Moorish ruler. The authors claim it may
be the Holy Grail, the cup used by Jesus
and His disciples at the Last Supper.
The body of the chalice is formed by two
pieces of Eastern Roman Onyx,
one a drinking vessel and one a base. Queen Urraca had the cup decorated with
precious jewels, golden filigree and a
Roman cameo and shaped into a chalice.
Mainstream archaeologists point out that
there are more than two hundred cups
that vie for the title of Holy Grail, but
this one has the distinction of having
the longest documented historical
pedigree. In any case many pilgrims find
it a compelling artifact and often wait
in line to enter the small chamber that
houses it.
Leon is also the headquarters of the
Friends of the Road Association of 
Santiago.
This hospitality association is
one of many in Spain whose mission is to
serve pilgrims at hostels along the
Camino. These volunteers are often former
peregrinos themselves. Then I became a 
hospitalero because what it is usually
said that I wanted to give back to
people in the Camino what the
Camino gave me in fact. And I know, I
am absolutely sure the Camino has given
me many things, many spiritual things,
and mental things.
When you arrive in Santiago you feel really like a different person and the most important
thing is that when you go back home you try to do, to work, to act, to behave like a different person.
