

The Frugal Guide: Dublin

By Cory Hanson

Copyright 2014–2016 by Cory Hanson

Smashwords Edition

Original 2015 edition published December 3, 2014

First 2016 edition published December 3, 2015

Updated May 31, 2016

### Smashwords Edition, License Notes

Thank you for downloading this eBook. This book remains the copyrighted property of the author, and may not be redistributed to others for commercial or non-commercial purposes. If you enjoyed the book, please encourage others to download their own copy from their favorite authorized retailer. Thank you for your support.

Cover Photo: The Tricolor Flies over College Green by Sara Hanson

Also by Cory Hanson

Vienna Vignettes—a brief collection of humorous travel logs and travel tips written during a weeklong visit to Vienna and the surrounding Austrian countryside. The eBook is available for free from many eBook distributors.
Table of Contents

Foreword

Part 1: Dublin Travel Basics

Dublin Tips

Time, date, and numbers

Temperature and weather

Nothing quite as wonderful as money

Roads and distances

Does anyone still use phones?

Need free Wi-Fi?

In case of emergency

1916 Centenary celebrations

Getting to Dublin

Hotel shuttle

Dublin Bus Airlink

Aircoach

Taxi

Renting a car

Getting Around Dublin

Dublin Bus

Luas

DART

Dublin Bikes

Tours and Sightseeing

Bus tours

Sightseeing packages

Walking tours

Sleeping and Eating in Dublin

Sleeping

Eating

Chips with everything

Super and non-super markets

Traditional Irish food

Pub grub

Tips about tipping

Travel Safety

Sample Itineraries

Part 2: To Do in Dublin

Grafton Street, Your Dublin Home Base

The Little Museum of Dublin

Grafton Street proper

Suffolk Street Tourist Information Centre

Creative Quarter

College Green

Trinity College Dublin

Where to go from here

Dublin's Urban Park Scramble

About this walk

Optional pre-walk view

St. Stephen's Green (northwest)

Iveagh Gardens

The National Concert Hall

St. Stephen's Green (again)

Merrion Square

Finishing the walk

Southside Museum Row

About this guide

National Museum: Natural History

Science Gallery

National Gallery

National Library

National Museum: Archaeology

Finishing Museum Row

Temple Bar Neighborhood Walk

About this walk

Temple Bar Square

View from the Ha'penny Bridge

Meeting House Square

Pizza, beer, and dessert

Finishing the walk

Viking-Age Dublin

Early History

Dublin City Hall

Dublin Castle

Courtyard, State Apartments, and Medieval Undercroft

Dubh Linn Gardens

Chester Beatty Library

Cathedral Corner

St. Patrick's Cathedral and St. Valentine

Where to go from here

City Centre North

O'Connell Street

Parnell Square

Northside shopping district

Henry Street

Moore Street

Capel Street

Riverside Walk

West Dublin

Getting to West Dublin

Smithfield

Old Jameson Distillery

St. Michan's Church and Crypt

The Cobblestone Pub

National Museum of Ireland: Decorative Arts and History

Arbour Hill Cemetery

Phoenix Park

Farmleigh House and Estate

War Memorial Gardens

Kilmainham Gaol

Irish Museum of Modern Art

Guinness Storehouse

Teeling Whiskey Distillery

Returning to City Centre

The Docklands

On the quayside

Grand Canal Docks

Returning to City Centre

Part 3: Outside City Centre

Northside Extended

Croke Park and GAA Museum

Royal Canal Walk

National Botanic Gardens

Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum

Experience Gaelic Games

Clontarf and a Gambling-Free Casino

Casino at Marino

Bull Island and St. Anne's Park

The Battle of Clontarf Heritage Trail

Southside Extended

Grand Canal Walk

National Print Museum

Ballsbridge

A long walk from Sandymount

Howth

Harbour Road and the piers

Howth Head hiking

Dun Laoghaire

Dun Laoghaire Village

Pier walks

Sandycove Point

Seapoint Beach

Dalkey and Killiney

Dalkey Island

Killiney Hill

Bray and Greystones

Bray

Cliff Walk and Bray Head hike

Greystones

Part 4: Beyond Dublin

Public Transport out of Dublin

Bus Éireann

Private coach carriers

Irish Rail

Day Trips from Dublin

Hike the Dublin Mountains

Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough

Trim and Trim Castle

Brú na Bóinne and Newgrange

Further afield

Appendix

Dublin Festivals and Holidays 2016

Useful (and Fun) Resources

Epilogue: A Guide to the Dublin Pub

Like the Book?

Acknowledgements

About the Author

Maps

Grafton Street Area

Dublin's Urban Park Scramble

Southside Museum Row

Temple Bar Neighborhood

Viking-Age Dublin

City Centre North

Riverside Walk

West Dublin

Phoenix Park

The Docklands

Northside Extended

Clontarf and Marino

Southside Extended

Howth

Dun Laoghaire

Dalkey

Bray

Greystones

Dublin in Detail Essays

College Green

The Four Provinces

Irish Whiskey Tourism

Saint Valentine in Dublin?

Kilmainham Gaol

The Easter Rising

Croke Park and Gaelic Sports

The Battle of Clontarf

For Sara, my love, my inspiration, my support, and my expat meal ticket. You are my excuse for adventure!
Foreword

So, you're thinking about coming to Dublin. Good for you. Dublin is a vibrant, engaging, and exciting city. Packed with places to see and things to do, it can also be a heavy drain on your wallet. Luckily, I have lived the life of a Dublin cheapskate for more than two years, and have done extensive (but not expensive) research on the free and cheap diversions in Dublin.

In the original 2015 edition, I was, true to form, stingy with my advice and reviews—mostly because there was still so much in Dublin I had yet to see. Thankfully (for me and for you!) I spent most of 2015 expanding my Dublin repertoire to include many more of the paid attractions and off-beat hits of the city. As proof, find in this 2016 edition more reviews, more outdoor adventure, more of the best of Dublin.

To prove your own thriftiness, you've found and downloaded this inexpensive eBook, too! I'm not upset at all. I hope you find it helpful as a guide to some less-expensive Dublin entertainment. One of the biggest advantages of e-publishing is the ability to change and update the book quickly and for free. Therefore, this eBook is never really finished. I regularly publish updates and revisions as I learn about new things to do or I am made aware of changes in hours, prices, or services. To make sure you have the latest version, check the date on the title page of this eBook. If it is several weeks or months old, there may be a new update available. Check the book's website (www.fivesuitcases.com/books/the-frugal-guide-dublin) to see the date of the most recent update.

If you like what you see, why not share the book with other potential travelers? If you like it a lot, find out how you can directly support me and this book later. For now, best wishes for happy and safe travel!

### About This eBook

To use this book, follow these easy steps:

1. Read as much as you care to read.

2. Do as much from the book as you care to do.

It's that simple. This book isn't designed to be a replacement for a traditional Ireland or Dublin travel guide (yet). The authors of those books have staffs of researchers working full-time collecting details like always-fluctuating hotel prices, public transportation guides, and prices of food and drink. Sometimes, these details can be out of date before the ink is even dry on the printed books.

A very important distinction between this book and a professionally published travel guide: I have received neither payment nor kickback from anyone for inclusion (or not) in this book, except for the odd free admission as a reviewer. The good news is that I have made these recommendations based solely upon what I believe will be a good value and a good experience for you, fellow traveler. The research has all been done by me pounding the pavement, asking questions, and writing down opening hours from glass doors when necessary. The bad news is that I haven't been able to do in-person research at many of Dublin's more expensive paid attractions, restaurants, and hotels. Without the backing of a travel publisher and unlimited comped admissions, meals, travel, and hotel rooms, I've been left with tough choices. Restaurants and hotels have largely been left out, and only my favorite (or the most famous) City Centre pubs have earned a mention. With so many convenient self-planning travel aids like TripAdvisor available, I chose to leave the hotel research and planning to you. Please don't be angry.

Since publishing the 2015 edition of this book, I have been fortunate enough to visit many more of the city's paid attractions as a guest reviewer. This has given me the chance not only to see these attractions as a visitor would, but to compare the relative value of admission prices with other similar attractions. This year, I have a much better idea of the value of your tourist dollar (or pound, or euro, or ruble, or...), and have adjusted my evaluations accordingly.

Because you have downloaded this eBook, I assume you are a regular Internet user. Good. This book includes active URL hyperlinks with the most up-to-date information directly from the businesses and operators. This book is for planning purposes only. As much as I've tried to include the most accurate and current information, I could never keep up with every slight change in seasonal opening hours or admission price. After reading this book, I suggest double-checking time- or money-sensitive activities, just to make sure.

This eBook also comes equipped with an interactive table of contents for your convenience. To easily navigate this book, click on the name of a chapter heading in the table of contents above to skip instantly to the chapter heading in the book. Within chapters, navigate by linked section headings beneath the chapter title. At the end of each chapter, I have included a link back to the table of contents, so you can quickly and easily hop around the book as needed. I know that reading this eBook can never be as convenient as flipping around to pages in a printed travel book, but I have made every effort to make your experience as easy and pleasurable as possible.

Crunched for time? Can't do it all? Want to skip to the best stuff? Never fear! New in this edition, check out Cory's Picks, my own personal selection of the best Dublin has to offer. Simply look for the thumbs-up symbol ( ) next to my favorite parks, museums, pubs, and attractions. This isn't to say, of course, that everything else in this book isn't worthwhile, these are just my personal favorites. Your preferences and your mileage may vary.

I also recommend making as many arrangements in advance as you can, especially the big ones that can't or won't change. Lodging, transportation, and tickets to some (but not all) attractions will be among these. If you insist on a loose itinerary, do some clicking to check the schedule of things you might want to see. Keep these figures with you as you travel. Make sure to always know how and when to get tickets and transportation.

For more Frugal Guide: Dublin content, why not check out the podcast? This periodically published audio supplement has step-by-step guided walking tours (narrated unfortunately by Yours Truly) to go with some of the walks in the book, interviews with inexpensive Dublin entertainment curators, and much more. Find it and subscribe on iTunes or download it directly at frugalguidedublin.podomatic.com.

With this eBook, I hope to give you a current, honest, and thorough look at some of the free and inexpensive sights and activities in Dublin and my thoughts about some of Dublin's larger paid attractions. I hope to be one more voice and resource in an already well-researched trip. My goal is to help you have more fun and spend less money in Dublin.

Cheers!

Cory Hanson

BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS
Part 1

Dublin Travel Basics

### Dublin Tips

Time, date, and numbers

Temperature and weather

Nothing quite as wonderful as money

Roads and distances

Does anyone still use phones?

Need free Wi-Fi?

To your health

Your move, creep!

In case of emergency

1916 Centenary celebrations

**Time, date, and numbers**

Ireland (and the rest of Europe) technically runs on a 24-hour clock from 00:00 (midnight) to 23:59 (11:59 p.m.). Most "official" times (like bus or train schedules) will be given in 24-hour time, but some local business opening hours and almost all verbal times will be given in 12-hour, a.m. and p.m. times. Before noon, read 24-hour times just as they are. After noon, subtract 12 from the hour and add "p.m." Thus, 09:30 is 9:30 a.m., and 17:15 is 5:15 p.m. Some clock times (both 12-hour and 24-hour) are separated with a dot rather than a colon. Times like 17.15 and 9.30 a.m. are perfectly acceptable. All times in this book are written in 24-hour form.

NOTE: If you hear a local say something like, "half four," they mean 4:30, half past four.

Numerical dates are usually written as: DAY/MONTH/YEAR. Days are usually written with two digits. Thus, 07/4/15 is 7th of April, 2016. When filling out forms or buying tickets, check the DATE line carefully. For clarity, this book uses three-letter month abbreviations for all dates.

Building floors are numbered ground floor, first floor, second floor, etc. The ground floor is not the first floor. When someone gives directions to the "first floor" or "level 1," they mean the first floor above the ground—what North Americans would call the "second floor."

Continental European countries use a slightly different numerical punctuation system than that of North America, Ireland and the United Kingdom, but because of Ireland's large number of European immigrants, you may run into some of these Continental numbering conventions. Locals can recognize the difference at a glance, but they may be confusing for first-time visitors. Do your best, and don't be afraid to ask.

Decimal fractions of numbers are sometimes (but not always) marked with a comma instead of a dot. Thus, €4,99 is four euros, 99 cents. In this same system, the role of the dot takes that of the North American numerical comma, separating larger numbers into groups of three. Thus, €2.000,99 is two thousand euros, 99 cents.

Temperature and weather

Yes, Americans have to adjust to metric temperature readings when in Ireland. Luckily, Ireland doesn't have a very wide range of temperatures, so we can cover the outdoor temperature range right here and now. In summer, daytime highs range from about 15°C (59°F) to about 22°C (72°F). In the dead of winter, you'll likely find daytime temperatures from about 4°C (39°F) to 10°C (50°F). Temperatures above 22°C and below 0°C (32°F) are cause for surprise and sometimes alarm.

Weather forecasts are very tricky in Ireland. Moisture from the Atlantic can spin up into showers quickly and unpredictably, leaving the weather predictors in a tight spot. The daily weather report will generally sound something like:

"Showers with sunny spells today, first in the west, then in the east. Some may be heavy and of thunder, with bright sunshine to follow. Highest temperatures from 14 to 18 degrees."

These vague forecasts aren't really the fault of the forecasters, they just have to be prepared for anything. Generally, rains are frequent but rarely persistent. Rain tends to fall in brief showers on-and-off through the day, often while the sun is still brightly shining! Be prepared for rain and rainbows almost any day in Ireland.

Nothing quite as wonderful as money

The Republic of Ireland uses the euro as their official currency. These colorful bills (notes) and high-value coins are very well designed and a cinch for visitors to pick up and use. Euro paper notes are different sizes and colors for easy recognition. Coins are in three color-families: The coppers are 1c, 2c, and 5c, the golds are 10c, 20c, and 50c, and the dual-colored coins are 1-euro (silver center, gold rim) and 2-euro (gold center, silver rim). All coins have the value clearly printed on one side and the national symbol of a European Union country on the reverse. Most coins circulated in Ireland proudly display the Irish harp.

NOTE: Ireland is rolling out an effort to abolish the use of 1c and 2c coins. An optional rounding program was rolled out in late 2015, which may become mandatory nationwide. Vendors participating in this program will round all cash transaction totals to the nearest 5c. The rule is "1, 2, 6, 7 round down; 3, 4, 8, 9 round up!" This shouldn't have a big impact on your overall shopping experience, but sharp-eyed penny pinchers (like those who have downloaded this book) should be aware of it to avoid unnecessary scuffles at the checkout.

If you cross the border into Northern Ireland, you'll have to switch currencies to the British pound sterling. Euros are no use in the United Kingdom. The oddly shaped pound and pence coins would give America's confusing dimes and nickels a run for their...money!

I recommend using ATMs to withdraw euro (or pound sterling if in Northern Ireland) cash with your regular bank card for the best exchange rates. Before you leave, check with your bank or credit union for availability, fees, daily limits, exchange rates, and to alert them to your travel plans. Remember, your daily limit may be in your home currency, not in euros! It's a good idea to bring along some hard cash to exchange (at a bad rate and with fees) in case of an emergency like a frozen card. Don't bring your whole trip budget, treat it like the safety net that it is. Most banks exchange foreign money for a fee.

To minimize fees, try to take out most (or all!) of your travel budget in cash in one large withdrawal at the beginning of your trip. This can help the budget traveler in a number of ways. You will save on transaction fees (and blocks!) at restaurants and shops, and it will help you stick to your planned budget by avoiding too many impulse purchases. That said, there is no reason not to budget something for a little impulse souvenir or extra drink at the pub, right? As always, keep large amounts of cash with your cards and passport in a safe place like a money belt under your clothes.

Roads and distances

Ireland's road system follows that of the Brits, and that means they drive on the left. Luckily, crosswalks are usually marked with bold white lettering warning crossers to LOOK LEFT or LOOK RIGHT when crossing. If you are planning to rent a car (hopefully not to drive in Dublin), be ready to shift that manual transmission with your left hand.

Ireland officially marks distances in kilometers (km) and speeds in kilometers per hour (km/h). Dublin road signs with distance numbers will all be in kilometers. One kilometer is about .62 miles, so 50 kilometers is about 31 miles, 100 kilometers is 62 miles, and so on. Speed limit signs are in kilometers per hour, so 100 is about 62 miles per hour.

In City Centre, do not rely on easy-to-read road signs for navigation, especially when driving or cycling. Many intersections have no road signs at all, and others have signs in strange places, like high up on a balcony half a block from the intersection. Use a good map, mobile device, or GPS unit and count the streets as you pass them, confirming your location whenever you do run into a readable sign.

If you plan to go beyond City Centre or out of town, you'll need to know how Ireland's highways are marked and numbered. Route numbers beginning with the letter R like R118 and R815 are regional roads connecting cities and towns within a county. These routes are marked with black and white signs. Road numbers with N like Dublin's N11 are national routes connecting larger cities across counties. Blue signs with road numbers beginning with M are motorways, high-speed, limited-access toll ways like Dublin's ring-road M50.

Ready for a curveball? If you happen to travel to Northern Ireland, they still use the British (and American) standard of miles and miles per hour for road markings, but kilograms for measuring weight (well, technically mass). In Northern Ireland, you'll have to use British pounds to buy liters of petrol (gasoline) to drive for miles to pick up grams and kilos of rashers and bangers! Oh my!

Does anyone still use phones?

You may have to make phone calls from either a local Irish phone of from your own smart device. Some visitors buy an international mobile SIM card for their existing phone if they need to make calls or send texts at a moment's notice—others plan to use the free Wi-Fi offered at most pubs and cafés and nearly all hotels, hostels, and B&Bs for their communication (see below).

If calling an Irish number from abroad, dial your country's international calling code (011 in the US) followed by 353 (the country code for Ireland), followed by the number. IMPORTANT: the first few numbers are the area code, and may begin with a 0—many will list the first 0 in parentheses. Leave this 0 out when you dial from abroad. For example, if calling an Irish number like 086XXXXXXX from the US, dial 011 353 86XXXXXXX. If calling an Irish number from an Irish phone, leave out the international code and country code, then dial the entire number, 0 included.

Need free Wi-Fi?

Dublin used to offer free Wi-Fi services at many City Centre hotspots, but the pilot program ended at the beginning of 2016, and was not renewed. The future of the program is up in the air. You may still see the cute Dublin Free Wi-Fi mosaics featuring pixel art imaginings of Dublin icons like Dracula, the street busker, and you: the tourist with a Hawaiian shirt, cargo shorts, and a big camera.

You can log on for free access at the Suffolk Street Tourist Information Centre (see Grafton Street, Your Dublin Home Base), the public library on the upper level of the Ilac Centre on Henry Street (see City Centre North), and a number of other public spaces and museums. Most restaurants, pubs, and cafés offer free Wi-Fi for customers.

To your health

To make your trip more enjoyable, keep yourself healthy before and during your visit. Make sure to bring along any medications you may need and a simple first-aid kit with bandages, pain relievers, and tummy-settlers. Should you need any of these things while in Dublin, look for a shop with the green cross: the universal European symbol for pharmacies—not medical marijuana dispensaries.

If you are traveling from outside Europe, you'll likely be dealing with some Irish jetlag. Effects vary from person to person, but severe fatigue can be a real downer on your trip. If flying overnight from the Americas, try to sleep as much as you can on the flight, and do your best to stay awake until a normal local sleeping hour on your first day. I recommend staying active with some of my walking tours (how about Dublin's Urban Park Scramble or a visit to the free collections in Southside Museum Row?) to avoid the midday sleepies. Try not to plan any sitting-still activities like theater shows or bus trips until a day or two after landing to avoid nodding off and missing that killer soliloquy or the beautiful views on the Military Road near Glendalough.

When dealing with jetlag symptoms it is generally advisable to stay well-hydrated, limit or avoid alcohol, and resist the temptation to drug yourself with too much caffeine to stay awake. Come to think of it, these are pretty good recommendations for everyday health, not just jetlag treatment.

Your move, creep!

As it says in your passport: When in a foreign country, you are subject to its laws. As much as Temple Bar can look like the lawless Wild West at times, it is technically illegal in Ireland to have an open drink in public. The use of street drugs is also illegal, no matter what a pusher might tell you (and no matter how many Irish cops you see ignoring junkies shooting up in the alleys). Don't buy stolen electronics or smuggled tobacco from trench-coated characters on the street, and don't seek out the services of sex workers. Exercise common sense, and you should have no problems.

In case of emergency

For a police, fire, or medical emergency, dial 999 for immediate assistance. To locate the nearest Garda station (Irish police force), visit their website (www.garda.ie). If you are the victim of a crime while in Ireland, the volunteer Irish Tourist Assistance Service can advise and help you contact authorities, embassies, and banks to report the crime and begin the process of cancelling and replacing cards and documents (Local phone: 1890 365 700; email: info@itas.ie; www.itas.ie).

1916 Centenary celebrations

This year, Ireland marks the one hundredth anniversary of a very important day in her relatively short modern history: the 1916 Easter Rising. On the Monday after Easter (April 24) of 1916, a militia of Irish rebels took the General Post Office on Dublin's O'Connell Street—and a number of strategically and symbolically important buildings around the city—by force. Around the country, small bands of armed fighters captured police stations and military barracks in the coordinated attack.

The English quickly reorganized, and by the following Saturday, the rebels in Dublin had surrendered and their leaders were court-martialed. By the middle of May, sixteen of these Rising leaders had been executed, mutilated, buried in a secret grave, and covered with quicklime to stop anyone from "rescuing" the bodies to be used as rebel propaganda.

In total, more than 400 died and thousands were wounded in the week of the Rising—mostly civilians caught in the urban crossfire. It was a tragic week, signaling the end of peaceful English rule and the beginning of a bloody revolution—and an equally brutal civil war following—that would give birth to the modern Republic of Ireland. The violence of the week inspired Irish poet W. B. Yeats to write one of his most famous lines, from "Easter, 1916":

All changed, changed utterly:

A terrible beauty is born.

The names of the executed Rising leaders are now memorialized in the names of streets and train stations around the country (Heuston, Pearse, and Connolly in Dublin), and almost everyone in Ireland claims to know someone who knew someone who knew someone who fought in the General Post Office. It was the final victory against their ancient English enemies after so many failed rebellions (1641, 1798, 1803, 1848...), and its meaning to modern Irish people can neither be overstated nor fully grasped by a foreigner like me.

To celebrate the 100-year anniversary of the Rising, a number of events, exhibitions, and memorials are scheduled around the country through the spring and, indeed, the remainder of the year. Easter landed early in 2016 (March 27), nearly a full month before the actual calendar date of the Rising. Organizers chose to focus most of the centenary celebrations on the Easter weekend rather than the actual anniversary date. Before your visit, check the schedule of events and learn a little bit more about the Rising celebrations at www.ireland.ie.

There has been some hand-wringing among the politicians in Ireland over the celebrations; sensitivity is still a concern in a divided Ireland. Think about this during your visit: While Ireland has come a long way since 1916, the scars of the past have not yet fully healed. Recent descendants of those who fought and died on both sides of the conflict still live in Ireland, so keep this in mind as you commemorate this tragic but important event with the country to which it gave birth.

BACK TO BEGINNING OF CHAPTER

BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS
Getting to Dublin

Hotel shuttle

Dublin Bus Airlink

Aircoach

Taxi

Renting a car

You'll most likely be traveling to Dublin by way of Dublin Airport. From the airport, there are a number of ways to get to City Centre. Being the cheapskate that you are, I'll assume you want the most affordable choices first. Handily, each of Dublin Airport's two terminals has a bus stop and a taxi stand. Simply follow the signs as you exit the terminal for coach/shuttle. A bus attendant will make sure you are in the correct line for the correct bus. Note that there are no trains to the airport as of yet. Talks of extending Dublin's commuter train line continue, but it will be a long time coming—if ever it does come.

Hotel shuttle

Some hotels offer shuttle services to and from Dublin Airport on a set schedule or on-demand. If you are at one of these (usually nicer) hotels, great for you! Check all the details with your hotel before you make the trip.

Dublin Bus Airlink 747

Dublin Bus, the local city transport, runs an express bus from several stops in City Centre directly to Dublin Airport. The bus runs every 15–20 minutes, and a cheap ticket (€6.00 single, €10.00 return) can be purchased online in advance or at the airport (at the Spar shop in Terminal 2; at the Spar shop or a vending machine at the bus stand in Terminal 1). Single, one-way tickets can be purchased from the driver at the airport or at the terminal stop on O'Connell Street.

If your accommodations are in or very near City Centre, this will be the cheapest option. This bus is included in the Dublin Bus Freedom Ticket, see below. Current timetables, drop-off stops, and online ticket booking can be found on their website (www.dublinbus.ie/your-journey1/timetables/airport-services/).

Aircoach

Tends be a bit more expensive than the Dublin Bus Airlink, but occasional deals can make it quite comparable. Aircoach runs very frequently and covers much more of outer Dublin than Airlink 747, so if your hotel is beyond City Centre, an Aircoach return ticket is probably your best bet. That said, not all of the outer suburbs are served by Aircoach, so confirm in advance that your lodging is on or near a route before booking. Aircoach fares are calculated based on your required stop; farther stop, higher fare (www.aircoach.ie).

Taxi

We have officially left cheap territory and are on to the more expensive options. If you've got the cash, the taxis can take you where you want to go. With regular, direct buses to and from the airport at almost all hours, I can't really justify the extra cost of a taxi ride.

Renting a car

A number of car rental companies operate out of Dublin Airport. If your trip is only to Dublin City and the surrounding area, the expense and headache of driving and parking a car will far outweigh the convenience of having your own wheels. If you are taking a car trip around the country (a tourism Holy Grail and atop many bucket lists) see other guides, as that is beyond the scope of this book.

BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS
Getting Around Dublin

Dublin Bus

Luas

DART

Dublin Bikes

Dublin is a great city for visitors. Most of its sights and attractions (including many of the cheap ones!) are located in and near City Centre. Many Dublin visitors, especially those flying in for a weekend bachelor or bachelorette party (called "stag" and "hen" parties here) never leave the confines of a few square blocks.

The public transport system in Dublin is sadly fragmented and can be rather inconvenient to use. The DART train only serves one north–south line along the coast of Dublin Bay, the Luas tram has two lines, but they bafflingly are not connected to each other (a connecting line is currently under construction). Dublin Bus has wide, comprehensive coverage of the city, but buses aren't always easy for visitor use.

To look at data from all forms of public transport, try the free Transport for Ireland Journey Planner app available for tablets and smartphones. This handy (but not yet totally foolproof) app uses your location data to display the nearest stops and up-to-date schedules and helps you plan your route with buses, trains (including Luas and DART), and even ferries. The drawback to this app is that it sometimes gives you access to too much information, and not always the best information. Read your search returns carefully, as the app may send you strange places like Dublin Airport to catch a bus to somewhere else in the city or out of town.

If you plan to use only Dublin Bus, the free Dublin Bus app is much more visitor-friendly and easier to use. Dublin's Luas and DART systems both have apps, but their routes are linear and most of their stations have real-time updates, so these apps are nice but not necessary.

If you'll be on and off public transportation often during your visit, consider buying the Leap Visitor Card, available at both terminals of Dublin Airport from the Discover Ireland tourist information desks or the Spar convenience stores. This card grants unlimited transport on Dublin Bus (including the trip to and from the city on Airlink 747; not including Aircoach), Luas, and DART trains—as well as limited out-of-town commuter train routes—for 24 hours, 72 hours, or a full week, beginning at first activation. Additional days can be purchased at Leap Card top-up centers in convenience stores around town if you extend your trip. The three-day pass is the best value for a short trip—especially given the price of your airport return—and not having to worry about counting coins in front of impatient Dublin Bus drivers and passengers might make it worth the investment (24 hours €10.00, 72 hours €19.50, 168 hours €40.00; https://about.leapcard.ie/leap-visitor-card).

NOTE: Do not confuse the Leap Visitor Card with a normal Leap Card. This card is designed for residents, requires a €5.00 deposit and is pre-loaded with travel credit—not time limits. Using this card does save on individual trip fares, but the hassle of registering and returning the card for the deposit make the savings not worth the trouble for short-term guests in my opinion. It is handy and recommended, but only if you are preparing for an extended stay in the city.

Dublin Bus

You'll notice right away that you aren't in Kansas anymore when you see the iconic double-decker buses chugging along on the left side of the road. While not as legendary as London's red buses, these blue-and-yellow behemoths offer comprehensive coverage of Dublin City and the surrounding suburbs. Unfortunately, they can be a bit tricky for inexperienced visitors.

I strongly recommend installing and using the Dublin Bus app on your smart device. Use the app to plan your route from your location and get on the bus. Once seated, sign in to the free Wi-Fi available on all buses, fire up the app, find your route number and direction, and watch your dot pass each stop on the map. As you approach your destination, push a red STOP button on the bus railings to request a stop in advance.

To catch a bus, know your route number and terminus. Wait at the correct stop (on the correct side of the road!) and flag down your bus by holding out a closed fist at the bus stop sign. If using the Leap Visitor Card, simply touch it to the validator to your right as you enter the bus—look for the green frog logo—and wait for the beep; if using the Dublin Bus Freedom Ticket (see below), show it to the driver as you step on.

If you aren't using a card, have your coins ready and tell the driver your destination. The Dublin Bus app can calculate your fare while you're waiting, or the driver will tell you the amount to drop into the coin counter. The driver will then print out your ticket. Keep this ticket with you in case you are checked by an inspector. As you are stepping off the bus, do as the locals do and thank your driver with a wave and a "Cheers!"

IMPORTANT: Dublin Bus only accepts coins, not paper notes. Don't get stuck as many tourists do with nothing but a fistful of paper money and an unsympathetic driver. If you are using the bus frequently, consider the Leap card; otherwise, try to make sure you have a few euros in coins ready.

Buses do not offer return tickets and do not offer discount transfers for cash fares. If your journey requires a bus change, be prepared to pay two full fares...and two full fares on the way back (www.dublinbus.ie).

Luas

Dublin's streetcar tram system operates two lines. The Red Line runs east–west and connects the Docklands in the east to the western suburbs. The Green Line runs north–south from St. Stephen's Green in City Centre to the outer southern suburbs.

Luas trams run frequently and stops are announced on the car, making it great for tourists. At the Luas stop, use the ticket machines to pay cash for a single (one-way) or return (there-and-back) ticket; if using the Leap Visitor Card, touch the card to a validator at the station before getting on the train to "tag on." When you get off at your stop, touch the card to a validator again to "tag off" (www.luas.ie).

DART

Dublin's overland commuter train line, the DART runs north–south along the coast of Dublin Bay. The train makes an inland turn for a few stops in City Centre before turning sharply back to hug the coast.

Trains run regularly, especially at peak hours, and tickets can be purchased with cash at ticket machines at every station; if using the Leap Visitor Card, touch the card to a validator at the station before getting on the train to "tag on." When you get off at your stop, touch the card to a validator again to "tag off." Some of the smaller stations don't have printed timetables, so make sure to check the schedule on the website or the app in advance and make note of the outgoing and return train times (www.irishrail.ie).

Dublin Bikes

For an experienced urban cyclist, the ever-expanding Coca-Cola Zero Dublin Bikes program may be an inexpensive and fun way to get around Dublin. Bike stations are popping up in more and more places in and around City Centre, and the fleet of bikes continues to grow.

To use the program, you have to use a credit card to buy a 3-day pass at a bike station with a card reader. Most stations in City Centre have them, but a full list is available on the website. The 3-day pass costs €5.00 on your card, and you must authorize a €150.00 guarantee that will only be charged to your account if you fail to return a bike. The machine will issue a four-digit PIN number that acts as your pass. PIN in hand, you can then check out a bike from any bike station in the city.

This program is designed for commuters first, sightseers second. As such, bike rentals are charged by the hour, not by the day. The first half hour is always free, and that should be more than enough time to get to where you're going. Just be sure that there is a bike return terminal at your destination! To return your bike, slide it into an available bike slot until it locks into place. If there are no available bike slots, you can use the terminal to locate the nearest station with empty slots and get a 15-minute extension to your checkout time. The free Dublin Bikes official app AllBikesNow keeps an updated list of stations, available bikes, and available bike slots.

A note about safety: Dublin Bikes does not provide helmets or other safety gear. City Centre streets are cramped and very busy. Most main streets have bike lanes, but these are often shared with buses and taxis. Inexperienced urban cyclists might want to consider another form of transport (www.dublinbikes.ie).

Bikes can also be rented by the day from Neill's Wheels in City Centre (www.rentabikedublin.com) and at Phoenix Park (www.phoenixparkbikehire.com).

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Tours and Sightseeing

Bus tours

Sightseeing packages

Walking tours

Bus tours

If you are interested in a guided tour on wheels, the best value is probably in the Dublin Bus Freedom of the City Ticket (not to be confused with the Dublin Pass, see below). This €33.00 pass is good for three days of unlimited Dublin Bus travel, including the Airlink Express 747 (see above) to and from the airport, every Dublin Bus city route, and the Green Bus hop on hop off tour line. To get the Freedom Ticket, buy it online before your trip and pick up the ticket at the Dublin Bus stand at the airport (either terminal) or at the main Dublin Bus office on O'Connell Street—that's if you already have airport transportation arrangements (www.dublinbus.ie/en/Fares--Tickets/Tickets/Tourist-Tickets/).

If you don't buy the full Freedom of the City Ticket, you can still buy a two-day Green Bus hop on hop off pass. The Green Bus runs two hop on hop off lines. The original (purple) route hits most of Dublin's highlights in a 90-minute loop with live commentary beginning at Dublin Bus HQ on O'Connell Street, but you can catch it at any of its 24 stops. Buses run every 10–15 minutes from 09:00–17:00 daily. The pink route is a 30-minute loop covering the Docklands on the eastern side of City Centre. There are fewer heavy-hitters on this line, but it covers a much more modern Dublin than you'll see on the purple line. Pink route buses also leave from Dublin Bus HQ on O'Connell Street and run every 10–15 minutes from 09:45–16:45 daily.

As an added bonus, every Green Bus ticket (including the Freedom Ticket) comes with a free voucher for a Pat Liddy historical walking tour and a free admission to the Little Museum of Dublin on St. Stephen's Green. I could take or leave the Little Museum, but the various Pat Liddy walking tours are great if a little expensive. Take advantage of this free ticket if you go for the Green Bus (Three-day Freedom of the City Ticket €33.00, two-day Green Bus and bonuses only €22.00, www.dublinsightseeing.ie).

The other prominent hop on hop off tour in Dublin is run by City Sightseeing. These red buses also run two lines; the red line covers nearly the same City Centre route taken by the Green Bus purple route, the blue line heads farther north to Croke Park and Glasnevin Cemetery. Tours pick up in City Centre and run every 10–15 minutes from 09:00–19:00.

The two-day pass is cheaper than that of the Green Bus, but the added value of the Freedom of the City Ticket and the Pat Liddy walking tour make the Green Bus a little bit more attractive (€16.15 adult advance online booking price]; [www.citysightseeingdublin.ie).

The best value in a one-day hop on hop off bus is that of CityScape Bus Tours. These yellow buses run a two-and-a-half hour City Centre route (leaving out the farther-out sights on the northside, see their route  map for more details) through the day with pickup points at most of the City Centre highlights and some of the south suburb hotels. Live tour commentary runs throughout the tour, with guides telling stories and pointing out in-between highlights to fill the time between stops.

The added perks of the CityScape ticket make it even more appealing for the one-day cheapskate. Make sure to enjoy your free glass (half-pint) of Guinness at the Vat House (not my favorite Temple Bar pub, but hey, free beer is free beer) and free entry to one of Dublin's greyhound racing tracks. Just taking advantage of the free beer and the night at the dogs is worth more than the one-day ticket if it fits with your plans, and other discounts are available with CityScape partners. Check greyhound schedules and list of current partners to see what works for you (One-day tour €10.00 adult, can be booked online or purchased from the driver; routes run every 15 minutes, first route starts at 08:30, last route starts at 17:30; www.cityscapetours.ie).

To save time, try to minimize repetition on this or any hop on hop off tour. Decide where you'd like to hop off and explore—especially far-out sights like Kilmainham Gaol—before taking a loop around. This way, you won't be wasting valuable sightseeing time riding a long loop around, and you can see more with your one-day ticket.

For the adventurous, another raucous tour prowls the streets of Dublin. You'll see them when you come, but you may hear them first. Viking Splash Tours take visitors on a one hour, fifteen minute guided tour of the city in an amphibious WWII vehicle with a faux-Viking tour guide growling history and stories about Dublin. I found it to be lighter on facts, heavier on anecdotes and entertainment than a more serious tour—maybe that's exactly what you want, maybe it isn't. If this is your only guided Dublin experience, try to supplement your history with a visit to Kilmainham Gaol and/or the National Museum of Ireland: Archaeology.

The route covers a mostly southside City Centre route, through the Grafton Street area, Viking-Age Dublin (of course), and over to the Docklands (see map for more details). Note that this is a fixed-route tour; not hop on hop off.

Periodically, the guide will count down for a Viking scream from the horned helmet–wearing passengers to intimidate passersby on the streets. These iconic Viking yells are as fun as you care to make them; if you let yourself go with the rest of your enthusiastic fellow passengers, it will be much more exciting. Some locals will yell back, others will duck their heads to avoid eye contact as they wait for a crosswalk. You might even yell at me (look for my clunky mountain bike with mudflaps made from repurposed laundry detergent bottles). These car/boats have become so iconic among Dubliners (for good or for ill) that they have made their way into Irish works of fiction set in the city.

After the main city tour, the driver takes the vehicle into the Grand Canal Docks for a quick float before heading back to City Centre. As this area continues to grow, there is more to point out: multinational tech company headquarters, Grand Canal Square, and the former home of Windmill Lane recording studio can all be seen from the lumbering, diesel-powered DUKW boat.

Tours pick up on St. Stephen's Green North, and advance online booking is highly recommended, as this popular tour sells out through the season (€22.00 online booking price]; [www.vikingsplash.com).

Sightseeing packages

The surprisingly expensive Dublin Pass claims to provide free entrance to many of Dublin's attractions. Checking the list, most of them are free anyway. The card does come with a one-way (not return) ticket from Dublin Airport to City Centre on Aircoach (see Getting to Dublin), magical line-skipping powers, and discounts for a number of touristy restaurants, tours, and pub crawls. Cards are available online and at tourist centers in 1-, 2-, 3-, or 6-Day packages.

Bottom line: If you are planning to visit all of the most expensive Dublin attractions (Guinness Storehouse, Old Jameson Distillery, Dublin Zoo, Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship, etc.) in a short time, this card may save you a little bit, but you would need a very busy schedule of expensive attractions and tours to really make it worthwhile (3-Day adult pass €71.00; www.dublinpass.ie).

Heritage Ireland, part of Ireland's Office of Public Works (OPW), manages many of Ireland's natural and historic points of interest, most of which are free. They do offer a one-year _Heritage Card_ that covers entry fees to all paid Heritage Ireland (or OPW) properties in the country, but you would have to do four or more of the paid Dublin-area attractions (Kilmainham Gaol, Trim Castle, Dublin State Apartments, Brú na Bóinne) to make the card a good value. Consider it if you are planning an extended visit to Ireland. Cards can be purchased at any of Heritage Ireland's paid attractions (€25.00; www.heritageireland.ie/en/Info/HeritageCards).

Walking tours

You'll have your pick of themed walking tours in Dublin if you'd rather stretch your legs as I do. Most walking tours cover the historical hits in City Centre, with some variations in the routes. If you are taking a walking tour in the city, try to book in advance and get yourself on a tour early in the day. Sidewalk and road traffic in the city gets really nasty and can make for some unavoidably uncomfortable sightseeing as the day goes on.

The local industry standard is the Pat Liddy series, led by Dublin's leading historian and storyteller and his team. His Dublin Highlights tour runs year-round, and special holiday-themed tours operate as scheduled (€8.00 and up, free with Green Bus ticket; approx. 2 hrs.; check website for schedule and to book online www.walkingtours.ie). If you get lucky, Pat himself may be giving a free special tour as part of Dublin City Council's Let's Walk and Talk program   (www.letswalkandtalk.ie).

Another popular walk is led by history majors and graduates from Trinity College, and leaves from its front gate. The tour route varies depending on the guide, but all are knowledgeable historians and can answer all of your questions on an informative walk (€12.00; approx. 2 hrs.; book online or pay guide; www.historicaltours.ie).

Several "free" walking tours meet daily in the city for those not wanting to commit up front; these tour guides are paid by tips only, so "free" really means "pay what you like." Two popular groups offering these free tours are New Dublin Tours (covers most of the southside highlights; 3 tours/day, 3 hrs.; book online www.newdublintours.com) and Dublin Free Walking Tour (southside tour daily at 11:00, 3 hrs., northside tour daily at 15:00, 2.5 hrs.; both meet at the Spire on O'Connell Street; www.dublinfreewalkingtour.ie).

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Sleeping and Eating in Dublin

Sleeping

Eating

Chips with everything

Super and non-super markets

Traditional Irish food

Pub grub

Tips about tipping

The basic needs of room and board will be your biggest expenses after transportation, especially in a high-cost city like Dublin. But just like everything else, well-prepared and dedicated cheapskate travelers can sleep comfortably and eat well for less.

Sleeping

Just how dedicated are you to your frugal ways? Dublin, like any major European city, has a wide variety of sleeping accommodations on offer. Generally, hostels are a great value and are centrally located. The best room rates will be found in mixed-gender dormitory-style rooms. Any luxuries beyond that (female-only, fewer beds, and the ultimate luxury of a private room) will cost extra. We like to use Hostelworld (www.hostelworld.com) for all of our European hostel arrangements. They list accommodations in hostels, B&Bs, and smaller hotels. On this (or some other sites) you can narrow your search and see a breakdown of charges and amenities with user reviews and ratings.

The hip private rental service Air BNB (www.airbnb.com) allows private home and apartment owners to list and rent out their own rooms to travelers. Locations and prices can be great, especially if you don't mind sharing your apartment with the owner. Properties can conveniently be searched by location and price range. Be sure to check the reviews before booking.

Of course, hostels and homes aren't the only lodging choices in Dublin. With a quick search, you can find the full range of hotels from way-out budget chains to classic top-hat-and-tails luxury hotels. I haven't done extensive hotel research simply because the hotel and hostel search tools online are so easy to use and can help you find a place to stay—meeting all of your personal specifications and with hundreds of user reviews—in minutes. I would rather spend my Frugal Guide time finding and writing about things you won't find in a quick web search.

As stated elsewhere in this eBook, do your homework.

Eating

Eating in Ireland can be a terrible bore or a once-in-a-lifetime treat, depending upon your perspective. This is especially true for the frugal gourmand looking for sustenance on the streets of an expensive city. If you look and plan carefully, you can find some tasty treats without breaking the bank.

Chips with everything

Sometime during your trip, you'll want to try fish and chips, or at least visit one of Dublin's hundreds of chippers. Chip shops and takeaways (general term for all fast food joints) vary in quality and price. Some of the best are in or near City Centre, Beshoff Bros. is a particular favorite local chain. You might notice fast food joints with Italian-sounding names like Mario's and Borza. The tradition of the Italian chipper goes back to the 1880s, when an influx of Italian immigrants opened fast food restaurants around the country. As you wander around town, see how many restaurants claim to be "Probably the best [food name] in Dublin!"

A plate from the chipper | Photo: Emily Petruccelli

When you order fish and chips, before slathering everything in ketchup, try a few chips with just salt and vinegar. This clear vinegar is made from malted barley, not grain alcohol, and thus has a nice sweet-and-tart taste that goes very well with beer. Other local fast food favorites are curry chips slathered in a sweet and spicy brown gravy, breaded and fried beef batter burgers, and sometimes surprisingly tasty cheap pizzas.

For American visitors needing a taste of home, the local 1950s Americana chain Eddie Rocket's is open late and serving burgers, fries, hotdogs, and milkshakes. Young locals usually stop here for a late-night snack after a long night of drinking. You won't be in Dublin long enough to miss American food that much, will you?

Super and non-super markets

It's no secret, but it bears repeating here. The cheapest traveling food is from markets, but it doesn't always have to be the same soggy sandwiches! Some of the most fun meals can be those eaten in a park while watching ducks and swans fight over bread or in Temple Bar Square watching stag partiers fight over their drinking itinerary.

When shopping in supermarkets or small convenience marts, you can still make Irish meals by choosing popular local food and drinks. Try the Tayto brand cheese and onion crisps, Club Orange Soda (with real fruit bits!) and don't forget the milk chocolate digestive biscuits for dessert! The large supermarket chains Tesco, Aldi, and Lidl all have stores in City Centre. The cheapest may be Aldi on Parnell Street or Lidl on Moore Street.

Speaking of Moore Street, check out the daily street market there for almost suspiciously cheap fresh fruit and veg sold from carts. See more about Moore Street in the City Centre North chapter later in this book. If in town on a Saturday, schedule your lunch at the Temple Bar Food Market in Meeting House Square. Local vendors set up stalls with reasonably priced fresh food from artisan olives to oysters on the half shell.

Traditional Irish food

You'll see no shortage of pubs and restaurants pushing Irish classics like Dublin coddle, Irish stew, beef and Guinness pie, the legendary full Irish breakfast, and others. Of course, you'll find a range of price and quality all over the city. If you want to try one of these traditional meals, make sure to read the menu or inquire about the ingredients first. In other words, don't be surprised if you order coddle and are served a watery stew of cabbage, potatoes, onions, and plain sausage.

If you have a big appetite, try a good full Irish breakfast with a variety of traditional foods in different combinations including unsmoked bacon rashers, sausage, white and black pudding (often awful offal sausages), eggs, potatoes, mushrooms, beans, cheese, and soda bread with Irish butter. Different restaurants will have their own modern variations on this classic dish. Corner cafés will have better food and better prices than a Temple Bar super pub.

Pub grub

Many local neighborhood pubs still serve traditional Irish bar food at acceptable prices. The best deals will usually be found at lunchtime in the form of a carvery. These midday specials are usually a plate of roast meat slices with potatoes and greens. Some pubs have expanded kitchens and are now offering full menus, table service, longer kitchen hours, and restaurant pricing as a result. At most pubs, you'll have to ask for a menu and order at the bar. You'll also probably have to ask for your check at the bar when you're finished. Much more about pubs and pub food in the epilogue of this book.

Tips about tipping

Tipping customs in Ireland are different than those in the States. Bartenders and servers make living wages, so service costs are usually worked into food and drink prices. If you get good table service, it's polite to leave something extra, but if you ordered at the bar or see a service charge on your check, skip the tip.

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Travel Safety

Dublin is a big city with lots of visitors. Wherever you find tourists, you will find theft. It isn't the Wild Wild West (or the Wild Wild Eastern Europe), but Dublin isn't immune to the scourges of drug abuse and crime. Pickpockets and purse-snatchers operate anywhere tourists gather in numbers.

Generally, the south side of the River Liffey is considered the safer, wealthier, and more genteel side of town while the north side is seen as working-class, rough, and crime-ridden. Based upon my own observation, this is only partly true, and it doesn't mean that seeing the north side is a sure-fire way to be victimized, nor does it mean you don't have to be watchful on the south side. Here are some general tips:

1. In the morning, take out only the money you think you will need for the day and carry it in your pocket. Always keep valuables (most of your money, passports, cards, etc.) in a money belt under your clothing.

2. When making a purchase, especially from a vendor in a busy place, don't pull out the whole wad of cash. Try not to flash too much money on the street.

3. Take extra special care of phones and other electronic devices. Thieves can snatch these devices out of your hands, even (especially) in the middle of a phone call!

4. At night, stick to well-lit and populated areas. In particular, don't go too far away from City Centre unless you really know your route. Always use your best judgment.

5. Drink responsibly. Even if the purpose of your trip is to enjoy Dublin's club or party scene, don't lose control or awareness, especially away from City Centre.

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Sample Itineraries

If I've done my job, this book will include much more than you'll be able to do in one short visit to Dublin, especially if you're taking your time. What are my favorites? My top picks? What would I do if I had two days? Here are my suggested itineraries based only upon attractions in this book and meeting my frugal travel principle.

Two days: A weekend Dublin blur

Day 1—Catch the first tour of Kilmainham Gaol and return to City Centre, taking your pre-booked tour of Guinness Storehouse, Old Jameson Distillery, and/or Teeling Whiskey Distillery on the way. Take a peek through the Dublin Castle complex and visit the Chester Beatty Library. Before closing time, visit the Archaeology Museum on Kildare Street. Take an afternoon or evening stroll with either Dublin's Urban Park Scramble or the Temple Bar Neighborhood Walk after dinner before relaxing in a pub that suits your taste. This might be the best day to buy a hop on hop off tour ticket to get around quickly and easily.

Day 2—See more of Viking Dublin with a walk past Christ Church Cathedral (and St. Patrick's, if you must) before a short visit to St. Audeon's Church (summer only). Walk along the River Liffey and get your photos of the bridges of Dublin. Walk up O'Connell Street and through some of the north side shopping district. Check out one of the north side craft beer pubs (Beerhouse or Brew Dock) or enjoy an evening of traditional ("trad") music in the Cobblestone pub in Smithfield. As this is a more central Dublin day, this might be the day to catch any museums you missed on Day 1, or take the Viking Splash plunge.

Three days: A midweek Dublin stopover

Days 1 and 2 above, plus...

Day 3—Visit Phoenix Park and Collins Barracks on the west side (on the same day you visit Kilmainham) or visit the Botanic Gardens and Glasnevin Cemetery with a walk along the Royal Canal or a session with Experience Gaelic Games. If the weather looks good, consider either a Howth Head hike or the Bray to Greystones Cliff Walk.

Four days or more: Pushing it

If you are staying in Dublin for four days, consider a longer walk or hike like the Grand Canal trail, the Sandymount to Poolbeg Lighthouse walk, or a hike in the Dublin Mountains (advance planning required). With four days, I'd strongly consider taking one of the near Dublin day trips listed in this book, or even one of the long day trips to the far corners of Ireland. Dublin's great, but don't miss a chance to get out and see the rest of the country.

Enjoy!

Whether you're spending a weekend or a week in Dublin, enjoying just the city or a month-long journey around the island, relax, roll with whatever happens, and have fun. Don't let an unexpected rain shower ruin an afternoon, step into a pub and make some new friends! Take advantage of opportunities when they appear, and don't be afraid to be (safely) spontaneous. Ireland is a forgiving, English-speaking country that depends on tourists having a good time, spending money, and sharing their great memories with friends and family back home. Let's oblige them in every way but the spending money part, shall we?

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Part 2

To Do in Dublin
Grafton Street, Your Dublin Home Base

The Little Museum of Dublin

Grafton Street proper

Suffolk Street Tourist Information Centre

Creative Quarter

College Green

Trinity College Dublin

Where to go from here

Dublin City Centre is thankfully compact, as I suppose would be any thousand-year-old European city. The easiest landmark and center of operations for most tourists is the Grafton Street area. If you're ever lost around town, ask anyone—even a tourist—for Grafton Street or just listen for the accordion players.

Grafton Street runs north–south through the very heart of south side City Centre. The street is on a very slight downhill incline when walking from south to north, so the south end of Grafton is known as the top of the street. The north end is the bottom. As confusing as that is, locals may give directions referencing the top and bottom—be prepared.

At the south end (that's the top, remember) of Grafton Street is St. Stephen's Green park and St. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre. At the bottom (north end) of Grafton is the former home of the famous Molly Malone statue and the entrance to Trinity College. Molly now resides in front of the church near the Tourist Information Centre on Suffolk Street, 120 yards (110 m) to the northwest.

**The Little Museum of Dublin**

At the corner of St. Stephen's Green North and Dawson Street, a tiny museum is tucked into one of the old Georgian buildings on the square. The Little Museum of Dublin (1) is dedicated to off-beat twentieth-century Dublin kitsch and memorabilia. The museum is narrow but several stories tall, characteristic of its Georgian home. One room near the top is dedicated to Dublin's most famous hometown rock band U2.

The museum is a bit pricey for its size unless you have a specific historical interest in twentieth-century Dublin. Stop by to catch one of the hourly tours if you happen to have a free ticket as part of a package like the Dublin Bus Green Bus Hop on Hop off Tour or you happen to be around on a Thursday evening, when the museum is free from 18:00 to closing. If not, you can safely skip it (€7.00, discount if booked online; Mon–Sun 09:00–17:30, Thu 09:00–20:00; www.littlemuseum.ie).

Grafton Street proper

Grafton Street itself is a wonder the first time you see it, a joy the second, pleasant the third, inconvenient the fourth, and worse with each following trip. The street is often jam-packed with tourists, vendors, street performers (called buskers) and a few local residents trying to navigate the pulsing throng. What can be had for free here on Grafton? Window shopping and crowd watching, both of which should be done at least once while in Dublin (www.graftonstreet.ie).

Starting from the south end of Grafton, the large St. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre (2) will be booming. This is about as close as City Centre gets to an American shopping mall. The building has a beautiful glass skylight letting in the not-always-present Irish sun. The food court upstairs has a variety of Irish chain snack joints and coffee shops. A good view of the park and the Grafton Street chaos can be had from the windows in the dining area. A higher but slightly obscured look at Dublin can be had by taking the elevator in the rear of the center (near the entrance to Dunne's Stores) all the way up to the roof of the parking structure.

In the square outside the center, you will likely see the large busking groups, performing coordinated break-dancing, stilt-walking, or street magic. Much more helpful than the street performers is the visitor information stand open during the day. Look for the blue/green color scheme and the bright "Ask us!" display. These carts have the best free maps in the city and good advice if you can hear them over Michael Jackson's Thriller album playing on a loop for the break-dancers.

A number of side streets split from Grafton on both sides. All are lined with shops, pubs, and restaurants. Foot traffic is usually a bit lighter so you can catch your breath.

Don't miss the statue of Phil Lynott (3) on Harry Street. Lynott is known to most of the world as the lead singer and bassist of Thin Lizzy, the moderately popular classic rock band of "The Boys are Back in Town" fame. In Ireland, anyone achieving even mild international success is loved and lauded. They are also often given a nickname ending in O. Lynott is known locally as "Philo," Irish soccer star Robbie Keane goes by "Keano."

Is that where Bono got his moniker? Maybe he was born Bonham and, dreaming of future Irish fame, preemptively game himself his own o-ending nickname. (This is not the case.) The way they treat Irish celebrities here, I can't imagine what the city will do when Bono finally goes into that great place where the streets have no name...

Look down Anne Street to see St. Anne's Church (4). Bram Stoker, Dublin native and author of Dracula lived nearby and was married in this church. Check the schedule online or at the entrance, there just might be a free lunchtime concert in the church that day. They begin at 13:15, just after daily services (www.stann.dublin.anglican.org/concerts).

For a quick drink, why not try The Duke (5) on Duke Street. This classic Dublin pub doesn't have the faux-traditional atmosphere of those in Temple Bar, but hasn't yet been turned into a suburban sports bar. There are fewer televisions (except on big match days of rugby, hurling, or Gaelic football) and a bookish vibe. Drinks are still served at City Centre prices, so don't get carried away.

Grafton used to be the city's high-end shopping district, and many of those stores are still operating. Look for the doorman in front of the classic Dublin department store Brown Thomas (6) in top hat and tails. Most of the glitzy shops are on the north end of the street. Also—Ireland's oldest McDonald's restaurant.

Suffolk Street Tourist Information Centre

The real practical heart of Dublin for any visitor is the fantastic Tourist Centre on Suffolk Street (7). Located conveniently just northwest of the north end of Grafton Street, it should be one of your first stops.

The information office used to be in a converted church at the corner of Suffolk Street and St. Andrew's Street, but moved in February 2015 to a new high-tech storefront nearby. At the TI, you can take a look at various Dublin attractions on their interactive touchscreen pods. The traditional marked tourist maps are available (and you should grab one), but the new TI also supplies blank maps and pencils near the planning pods. Visitors can poke around Dublin (literally) and make notes on a paper map to take with them when they hit the streets. Also check out the social media wall, displaying recent photos taken by tourists and shared on social media, a scrolling digital calendar of events, and an app display promoting various helpful mobile applications for Dublin and Ireland visitors. Free Wi-Fi is of course provided so you can download all those apps and upload your best pics to your favorite social media platforms. The staff is friendly and helpful with the latest travel updates and advice. Peruse the screens and brochures for all the tours and attractions in and around Dublin, many of which can be booked at the desk (www.visitdublin.com).

Molly Malone

Molly Malone, Dublin's unofficial mascot, bulges out of her dress in front of the old church nearby. The name Molly Malone was made famous in a song, "Cockles and Mussels," in which a girl in "Dublin's fair city" sells fish on the street and died a tragically young death. According to legend, she sold fish on the street during the day and worked as a prostitute by night before dying in one of Dublin's many cholera outbreaks. With such a reputation, it should be no surprise that the statue was made with such voluptuous dimensions. The song isn't really Irish, first published in Scotland, and Molly Malone is probably just a nice alliterative Irish-sounding name used for aesthetic effect in the song. Nonetheless, Dublin authorities found one of the hundreds of historical Molly Malones on record and declared her the official Molly for the dedication of this statue.

The statue itself was installed at the north end of Grafton Street in 1988 to celebrate Dublin's millennium (988–1988), and there she sat until May 2014. The city is expanding the Luas light rail line to connect the north–south (green) and east–west (red) lines of the system, and they needed Molly out of the way for construction. The city currently plans to relocate Molly back to her original place in 2017 when construction is complete.

Creative Quarter

Just west of Grafton Street proper is Dublin's Creative Quarter. Between Clarendon Street on the east and South Great Georges Street on the west is an eclectic blend of niche shops, unique restaurants and cafes, theatres, and a variety of pubs.

Check out George's Arcade (8), not a video arcade (I wish!), but a walk-through daily market with locally sourced snacks, artist's galleries, antique dealers, and vintage clothing (Open daily; www.georgesstreetarcade.ie).

Near the arcade, the Powerscourt Town Centre (9) is a large indoor mall with more boutique shops and restaurants. For a unique gift or souvenir on the pricey side, check out the mid-to-upper-tier antique dealers, local jewelry artists, and fashion designers. Also, don't miss the free Wi-Fi (Open daily; www.powerscourtcentre.ie).

College Green

From the north end of Grafton, you'll be able to see the southwest corner of historic Trinity College. Continue north to the next big intersection, an important Dublin landmark known as College Green (10). This large plaza is a cultural and historical focal point for Irish people. Here you'll see more buskers, people selling knock-off kitschy souvenirs, and the newly opened Irish Whiskey Museum just across from the entrance to Trinity College. If you're coming up from Grafton Street, you'll pass the entrance on your left.

The Whiskey Museum tells the story of Irish whiskey making; covering its humble beginnings, its rise to popularity, its sudden decline, and its modern revival. Entrance to the museum exhibits is by guided tour only. Two different tours are offered, the Standard Tour and the VIP Tour. The tour is about an hour long and visits a series of exhibits and displays with narration from the tour guide and additional help from a series of video displays cleverly integrated into each "scene." The tour is less about the whiskey-making process and more about the business and culture of whiskey in Ireland. The special effects are interesting, but the tour is a bit...touristy.

The video exhibits are interesting, but everyone always asks about the golden elixir samples at the end. An expert taster walks each group through a sampling of different Irish whiskies, teaching novices how to smell and taste the different samples. Visitors taking the Standard Tour taste three blended whiskies, those who popped for the VIP Tour taste the same three blends and an aged whiskey. In addition, VIP tours include a free souvenir whiskey glass to take home. For the number crunchers among us, each sample is 20mL, and a standard pub measure is 35.5mL. If you already enjoy whiskey, the museum and tasting session will be fun if you have the budget; if whiskey makes you shudder, maybe just pop in and enjoy a coffee or a cocktail in the worthwhile café overlooking College Green.

If you are springing for the tour, the VIP has a better value in whiskey samples and the free souvenir glass. Tours begin every 20-30 minutes (Standard Tour: €15.00, VIP Tour €18.00; open daily 09:00-19:00, Jan-Feb 11:00-18:00; www.irishwhiskeymuseum.ie). For more about Irish whiskey, see Dublin in Detail: Irish Whiskey Tourism.

Dublin in Detail: College Green

_The spacious intersection stretching from the gates of Trinity College was once the very heart of Irish culture, learning, and politics. Conveniently located just below O'Connell Bridge and just down the street from Dublin Castle, it was the perfect location for Trinity College, and later for the Irish General Post Office, Parliament, and primary financial institution._

The large, rounded building on the north side of the square is home to the Bank of Ireland, but it was originally built to house the Irish Parliament. Until 1800, Ireland's representative government worked out of this building. When Ireland became part of the United Kingdom, the representatives were sent to Westminster in London, but not all were satisfied with this arrangement. Dissident Irish Members of Parliament rebelled by refusing to take their seats in London and formed an illegal Parliament here in this building. After the rogue Parliament was forcefully shut down (with cannons fired from across the street), the British established the Bank of Ireland in the building to keep the pesky Irish from using it for further trouble.

The bank reportedly has underground vaults full of priceless unclaimed treasure dating back hundreds of years to families whose lineage is unknown or has died out. Legal limbo is preventing these artifacts from seeing the light of day any time soon, so when you visit, you may be standing just a few feet above a Gringotts-style subterranean treasure trove.

Just across the street from the bank, note the building with the half eighteenth-century, half 1970s concrete façade. Ireland's General Post Office was once housed here, before being moved across the river to O'Connell Street.

College Green is regularly home to large gatherings. The annual St. Patrick's Day parade comes down from O'Connell Street through this busy corner. This intersection also becomes Dublin's answer to Times Square on New Year's Eve when the streets are blocked off, a stage is built, and a countdown clock is projected onto the front wall of Trinity College.

Until (at least) 2017, you aren't likely to get a good look at a healthy College Green. The sounds of jackhammers will mix with the honking of car horns as a crush of locals and tourists struggle to navigate the narrow footpaths. These works are part of a massive project expanding Dublin's Luas tram line from St. Stephen's Green across the river to O'Connell Street and the Northside. What they will do if they discover any forgotten underground bank vaults is unknown.

Trinity College

On the eastern end of the plaza, you'll see the strong stone walls and fancy entrance gate of Trinity College. The college was established in 1592 under Queen Elizabeth I. The fortress-like construction allowed the college to bar the gates to hold out violent Irish Catholic protests against this decidedly Protestant and pro-union house of learning. The campus is peaceful today, and Catholics and women are now allowed to attend.

Inside, a walk through campus is free. Most of the interesting tourist checkpoints are on the western side of campus, nearest this entrance. Check out the bell tower and the ring of hallowed buildings surrounding the central square.

Trinity Bell Tower

The famous Book of Kells is kept here in the Trinity Library. This Latin edition of the four gospels dates to the ninth century, and has been very well preserved. Each page is a work of art by itself; the script is hand-drawn and illustrated (or "illuminated") with imagery painted with what were expensive imported dyes made from ground plants, insects, and precious stones and metals. An exhibit about ancient bookbinding brings you to the Book of Kells viewing chamber, where you can see one spread beneath glass before you are shuffled out by other visitors.

After seeing the book, the tour continues upstairs to the library Long Room. You may have seen images of these high stacks of books and busts on postcards. Look for one of the last surviving copies of the Irish Proclamation—their Declaration of Independence. Also on display in the Long Room is a fourteenth-century oak and willow harp, the oldest surviving Irish harp of its kind. This was the model for the modern symbol of Ireland, seen on coins, crests, flags, and the Samuel Beckett Bridge over the Liffey.

After the Long Room, head back downstairs to exit, ironically or un-ironically, through the gift shop. The Book of Kells and Long Room are neither free nor cheap, so see them if you must (€10.00; Mon–Sat 09:00–18:00 Sun 09:30–18:00 Jun–Sep], Mon–Sat 09:30–17:00 Sun 12:00–16:30 [Oct–May]; [www.tcd.ie/Library/bookofkells).

Where to go from here

In a word, anywhere. The Grafton area is the perfect jumping-off point for your Dublin visit. From the south end of Grafton, you can begin Dublin's Urban Park Scramble. Just southeast is Kildare Street and Museum Row. West from the north end of Grafton is Dublin's storied Temple Bar Neighborhood, and just a bit farther west is Dublin's Viking Quarter, featuring Dublin Castle, Christ Church Cathedral, and the Chester Beatty Library. Directly north of Grafton, you can cross the O'Connell Bridge to the north side to see the sights on O'Connell Street, Henry Street, and the market on Moore Street.

*Notice the massive, disruptive construction project currently making College Green a traffic and pedestrian nightmare. This is part of the Luas Cross City project: an effort to finally connect the two separate lines of Dublin's tram system—two lines that were bafflingly not connected when they were built in the early 2000s while the country was busy spending money on things like the Spire of Dublin. The connecting line will wind through College Green, crossing the River Liffey at the new Rosie Hackett Bridge. When finished, traffic in the area around College Green should be much better controlled and more manageable, but in the meantime, we all have to deal with the construction. The line is expected to open sometime in 2017. We'll see.

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Dublin's Urban Park Scramble

About this walk

Optional pre-walk view

St. Stephen's Green (northwest)

Iveagh Gardens

The National Concert Hall

St. Stephen's Green (again)

Merrion Square

Finishing the walk

Dublin is famous for pints, pubs, and parks. That's right, Dublin's green space is some of the best in Europe. Luckily, three of her finest parks are in the heart of City Centre, easily accessible with this walk. We will see the tourist throngs at St. Stephen's Green, the secret solitude of Iveagh Gardens, and the wealthy snobbery turned public playground in Merrion Square.

A free audio version of this tour is available in podcast form on the iTunes store and for direct download at frugalguidedublin.podomatic.com.

About this walk

That is not a mistake, this whole walk is worth a   in my book—which is this one. The total length is about 2.2 miles (3.6 kilometers). This distance is just the direct route to all the stops on the map. If you choose to do additional meandering within the parks (and you should!) adjust the distance accordingly. Allow about one hour, fifteen minutes to do this walk at a leisurely stroll. Of course, allow more time if you bring a picnic lunch and camp out on a quiet (or noisy!) park bench. We will be exploring three parks with different histories and different vibes. Visits to each park can be as brief or as long as you care to make them.

This walk is all outdoors, and Ireland is Ireland, so keep an eye on the weather. This route won't ever drift too far from Grafton Street and its shops and pubs, so if the weather turns ugly, you can duck indoors until things clear up.

Optional pre-walk view

Before the walk begins, we will be conveniently near the main entrance to St. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre (0). This urban mall has a parking ramp going all the way up to the roof. For a quick (and free) look at part of Dublin's skyline, head into the main shopping center entrance at the south end of Grafton Street. At the far end of the ground floor, near the entrance to Dunne's Stores, the elevators (lifts) can take you nearly to the roof of the parking structure.

Take the lift up to level 8, then the stairs to 9B—the roof. The best looks from the roof are to the north and to the west. Looking directly west, see the smooth rolling hills of the Dublin Mountains. These comparatively small peaks protect Dublin on the south and west sides from strong storms and marauding Celts. The latter hasn't been much of an issue in the past few centuries.

To the northwest, see the steeples of Dublin and the white stone obelisk of the Wellington Monument in Phoenix Park, nearly three miles (4.8 kilometers) away.

Looking directly north, the obvious metal pole of the Millennium Spire juts into the sky from O'Connell Street on the north side of the river. The steeple to the right of the Spire is near the Tourist Info Centre on Suffolk Street. If you need a break or some help later on, they have free advice, free maps, free brochures, and free Wi-Fi.

St. Stephen's Green (northwest)

We will begin our park tour at the Fusiliers' Arch (1) at the north corner of St. Stephen's Green. To get there, find the southern tip of Grafton Street, the arch is the most prominent sight on the square. Fight your way through the crowds watching the jugglers, stilt-walkers, or break-dancers and enter through the arch (Park opens Mon–Sat 07:30, Sun 09:30, closes at dusk).

The Fusiliers' Arch memorializes the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who fought and died in the Second Boer War of 1899–1902. What's a Fusilier? What's a Boer? That's what I thought, too. The Fusiliers were an elite regiment of British soldiers from Dublin. They went to South Africa to fight Dutch settlers over who had the right to colonize and exploit that unfortunate country.

The arch lists the names of those who died in service of the British Crown—not a very popular sentiment in Ireland when it was built in 1907. It was damaged in the shootouts of the 1916 Easter Rising, but survived the subsequent destruction of British statues and memorials after Ireland's independence—unlike the unfortunate statue of Admiral Nelson which used to look over O'Connell Street, where the Spire of Dublin now stands.

Today, it's just a nice landmark used by tourists to direct each other around confusing Dublin.

Enter the park through the arch and make your way to the pond. For a nice viewpoint over the pond, follow the water's edge to your right up a small hill to a clear lookout over the footbridge. When you're ready, backtrack, follow the pond, and cross the footbridge. Walk around the flowers and fountains of the center of the park.

St. Stephen's Green Footbridge

Just to the left of the footbridge as you face it from the center of the park is a semicircular Garden of the Blind (2), with uniquely scented plants at eye level labeled in written English and in Braille. Further along, just up the steps behind the gazebo, is the sheltered Yeats Memorial Garden (3). This hideaway is perfect to escape from the general hustle and bustle of the park paths. An abstract bronze sculpture is dedicated to the Irish poet W.B. Yeats (rhymes with "mates").

When you're ready, return to the central square and exit to the west spoke, the next path to the right as you face into the center. Don't worry if you exit the park somewhere between the corners, the west corner is easily identified by the Luas streetcar cables and rails heading south...which is where we're going. Follow the train line across the busy divided road of Stephen's Green South. You'll now be on Harcourt Street. You'll pass Stokes Place on the left and Montague Street on the right before reaching Clonmel Street, where you'll take a left. At the end of this seemingly dead-end street is the entrance to...

Iveagh Gardens

The Entrance to Iveagh Gardens (4) may not look like much to the casual visitor, but behind these walls is a secret oasis in the busy capital of Dublin (Park opens Mon–Sat 08:00, Sun 10:00 closes 15:30 Dec–Jan, 16:00 Feb and Nov, 18:00 Mar–Oct).

Iveagh Gardens, like many of Dublin's urban parks, was once the private garden for one or more rich neighborhood residents—in this case, the Guinness family. During the work week, the wealthy brewers lived in Iveagh House on St. Stephen's Green, and this was their backyard. (On weekends, they stayed in Farmleigh House in Phoenix Park, which offers interesting free tours.) This park is almost invisible on all sides, surrounded by high walls, dead-end alleys, and fences overgrown with trees and vines.

Proudly known as Dublin's "Secret Garden," this park has a rather unspoiled feel. The park has a pleasurable mix of decorative styles and is rarely if ever crowded. Most visitors complete their Dublin visit never knowing that this gem sits just behind the big buildings on St. Stephen's Green.

Enter through the gate on Clonmel Street, the large fields to your left may be set up with a stage for a summer concert or play.

Head right to the Cascade (5), the large waterfall fountain facing a broad gravel boulevard. The fountain doesn't always run, but is beautiful even at rest. Tree ferns planted around the Cascade provide the illusion of an exotic and tropical locale.

The Cascade

Stroll out on the boulevard to the center of the park and check out the Twin Angel Fountains (6) facing each other across the expanse of grass, which may be dotted with sunbathers, businesspeople eating lunch, and families with kids.

Head back to the cascade and turn left (south) to the southern corner of the park. Take a contemplative stroll through the Sundial Maze (7). At the center of the maze, use the provided guide to take a stab at getting a time reading. When you're frustrated by the sun being covered by clouds, move on to the circular Rose Garden (8) ringed by an iron fence. Whenever you're ready, move along to the Exit (9) at the southeast corner.

Exit the park onto Hatch Street and turn left. At the first corner, turn left again onto Earlsfort Terrace. Pause for a moment to admire...

The National Concert Hall

The National Concert Hall (10) is Ireland's premier center for classical music. The building was once the central building of University College Dublin. In the mid-twentieth century, the university moved south of City Centre, and the building was renovated and converted to the concert hall it is today.

In addition to hosting performers from all over the world, this is the home venue for Ireland's National Symphony Orchestra.

Continue on past the concert hall to the next corner. We're back at St. Stephen's Green. Cross the street and re-enter the park, this time at the south entrance.

St. Stephen's Green (again)

The Three Fates Fountain (11) stands just inside the south entrance to St. Stephen's Green. These three ladies are the Three Fates of Greek myth who spun and tangled the threads of fate that bind people and events. Each of us had our own strand, and when our time on Earth was up...SNIP!

This particular statue was given to the people of Ireland by Germany after the Irish assisted German refugee families in the wake of World War II.

Three Fates Fountain

Turn right at the Fates and stay right as you make your way along the east edge of the park. At the east corner find the Famine Memorial (12). Behind the memorial, around the rock pillars, is a park exit. Just outside the exit is the Wolfe Tone Statue (13).

The Famine Memorial sculpture is one of several in Dublin. It commemorates the Great Famine of 1845–1852, and the starving, emaciated state of the desperate Irish people. The Famine continues to have a profound effect on the soul of the modern Irish people, and its impact is still felt today. The country has only recently begun to approach pre-famine population, and the mass emigration event spread Irish influence (and Irish DNA) to the far corners of the world.

Wolfe Tone (1763–1798) was an early Irish revolutionary and is considered the Father of Irish Republicanism. He was arrested for his participation in the 1798 Irish Rebellion and sentenced to death. Before his execution, he met a nasty end when he attempted suicide in his cell and died after eight days of suffering. Touchingly, his statue today is usually a hangout for teenage hard cider drinkers catching a buzz and a smoke during lunch breaks at school.

At Wolfe Tone's Corner, cross the street and turn right (east) onto Merrion Row, away from St. Stephen's Green. After about one half-block, turn left onto Merrion Street Upper. Walk past a row of Irish Government buildings, including the Department of the Taoiseach (pronounced TEE-shuck, sometimes ironically called Tee-SCHMUCK), Ireland's Prime Minister or executive branch. Going further, you'll pass the National Museum of Ireland: Natural History. If you need a break, there are free toilets in the museum. The large obelisk monument farther down is in the back garden of Leinster House, Ireland's House of Parliament.

Take a look down the street at the intersection in front of the museum to the church in the distance. This church is unofficially known as the "Pepper Canister." Does the green-domed cupola not resemble a dinner table pepper shaker?

The Pepper Canister

Across the street from the museum and Parliament, you will see the green of Merrion Square, our next park. To cross the street safely, continue up the same street to the corner of Clare Street and the crosswalk.

Merrion Square

After the walk from St. Stephen's, we arrive at the north corner of Merrion Square. Just inside the fence, you may be able to see Oscar Wilde (14). To get a better look at him, enter the park through the gate just to your right (Oscar's left) and follow the short path to his monument (Park opens Mon–Fri 08:00, Sat–Sun 10:00, closes at dusk).

Oscar Wilde

Dublin's cheeky Victorian literary hero Oscar Wilde reclines on a rock in the corner of the park. Much of his writing poked a quiet finger at the hypocrisies and absurdities of the lives of the rich people of leisure in his society.

He is most remembered for works like The Importance of Being Earnest and The Picture of Dorian Gray, and was a real charmer in his day. His flamboyant dress and clever wit were big hits. Sadly, he was eventually thrown in jail for being a homosexual and he died young and in poverty.

Today, the Irish recognize what a treasure he was, and the monument reflects his unique dress and his wry sense of irony. The statue gazes at his old family home at No. 1 Merrion Square. Think of him next time you say one of his most famous quotes: "True friends stab you in the front."

Go down the path at Oscar's right along the north edge of the park. Skip the first path to the right and continue to the first four-way path intersection. Left will take you out of the park, but we're going right, into the central eye-shaped garden.

Following the paths, emerge into the (hopefully) sunlit Center of Merrion Square (15). This large garden is ringed with benches and artfully arranged flowerbeds. Take a lap around to admire the flowers or the people spread out on the grass having lunch. Today's Merrion Square Park was originally the private garden of the wealthy residents in the surrounding Georgian buildings. Residency in one of the buildings granted one access to this private garden. Nearby Fitzwilliam Square and its garden are still privately owned. Needless to say, we won't be going there. Thankfully, Merrion Square Park is now operated by Dublin City Council as a tip-top urban park.

Want in on a really Irish piece of trivia? In the central garden, find the bronze, high-backed chair. This memorial, titled "The Joker's Chair," pays homage to late Irish actor Dermot Morgan who created and starred in Ireland's favorite comedy television show, Father Ted. This sitcom was one of the first (and only) Irish comedies that was actually, well, funny. Morgan died a tragically young death, but Father Ted lives on in reruns and collections. Even young Irish folks who weren't born when the show was on know their Ted trivia. For a good laugh, go into any local pub and ask whoever you find about their favorite Father Ted episodes.

From the center of the park, head west back toward the government buildings you passed on the way in. The most direct path is the one perpendicular to the path by which you entered the Center of Merrion Square, but feel free to wander around this modestly sized park if you have time and energy. If you exit on the wrong street, go to a corner and check the street names, all of them are named Merrion Square [Compass Direction]. We need to be on Merrion Square West for our final stop...

The pyramid on the western wall of Merrion Square Park looking at Leinster House is the National Memorial (16). This pyramid houses an eternal flame in honor and memory of all Irish Defense Force soldiers who have died in the line of duty.

The memorial is made of stone, steel, bronze, and glass. Each material represents a different branch of the Irish military. Four sentries stand guard around the tasteful memorial, and benches offer a chance for a contemplative rest to finish our parks walk.

Finishing the walk

The National Memorial is the last stop on our Urban Park Scramble. From here, you have easy access to Dublin's fantastic free museum block. The Museum of Natural History is just to the left (south) of Leinster House, the National Gallery of Ireland has an entrance on Clare Street, just north of Leinster House. The National Library and the can't-miss National Museum of Archaeology are one block to the west, on Kildare Street. All of these museums are admission by donation and covered in the Southside Museum Row chapter of this book.

The Number 29 Georgian House Museum is on Fitzwilliam Street just south of the corner of Merrion Square South and Merrion Square East, near the Pepper Canister church. This restored middle-class Georgian-era home is now presented as a tasteful and informative museum to daily life during this booming period in Dublin's history (1714–1830). Covering five levels of the narrow building (like the Little Museum), you can see the practical furnishings, décor, and everyday household items, many of them original to the house. I particularly enjoyed the "advanced" gadgets and tech of the time, like the lead-lined wine chest (a forerunner to our modern picnic cooler) and the dining room chamber pot concealed within a decorative case to protect the genteel diners from its contents (although, presumably, it would been used in full view of the gathered company). The museum and tour are not free, but worth a look for Georgian history buffs—looking at you, fans of Jane Austen novels and BBC costume dramas. Maximize your admission fee by catching the daily guided tour (€6.00; Tue–Sat 10:00–17:00, closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb, guided tour at 15:00; www.esb.ie/no29).

To return to the Grafton Street area, turn left (south) the same way you arrived from St. Stephen's. Turn right at Merrion Row (the way you came) and follow St. Stephen's Green North back to the Fusiliers' Arch and Grafton Street.

To get to Trinity College and Temple Bar, turn right up Merrion Square West and left on Clare Street. Clare Street will turn into Leinster Street South, then Nassau Street, all while skirting the iron fence of Trinity College. Molly Malone used to grace the busy bottom (north) end of Grafton Street, but now makes her long-term-temporary home one block west, in front of the church near the Tourist Information Centre on Suffolk Street.

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Southside Museum Row

About this guide

National Museum: Natural History

Science Gallery

National Gallery

National Library

National Museum: Archaeology

Finishing Museum Row

It might be easy to forget when visiting Dublin that you are in a nation's capital city. Here you'll find all the standard features of any other national capital: government offices, embassies of countries of which you've never heard, and a compact but impressive museum campus. Just like the Smithsonian Museums in Washington, D.C., Dublin's public museums offer an interesting look at the natural and human-made treasures of this small but important island country.

This guide takes you through the compact block of museums around Leinster House—Ireland's House of Parliament—with a quick trip to Trinity's unique Science Gallery. Note that some of these museums are closed on Mondays, so plan accordingly.

About this guide

This guide will help you navigate to and between Dublin's Southside Museum Row and provides a brief look at the highlights of each museum. It is not meant to be exhaustive or completely replace the interpretive materials available at each museum.

Here you'll find street directions to the entrance of each of the museums in order, but your schedule and tastes may vary. Are you a big art buff? Spend some more time at the National Gallery (and don't miss the Chester Beatty Library in Dublin Castle, covered in the Viking-Age Dublin chapter and the Hugh Lane Gallery, covered in the City Centre North chapter). Only have time for one museum? Go for Archaeology—the shining jewel in the crown of the National Museum system.

This guide begins at the National Museum: Natural History simply for the ease of connecting your museum visits with Dublin's Urban Park Scramble in this book. You can begin or finish your museum visits anywhere you'd like. In this square block, you'll always be near the rest of the sights in City Centre.

National Museum: Natural History

The first visit to this museum tour will appeal to your inner child. The Natural History Museum Entrance (1) is directly south of the lawn of Leinster House. You will notice the animal topiary figures on the small museum grounds. If visiting during the summer or on a weekend, you'll no doubt see families with excited youngsters going to see the animals.

The building itself dates from 1856 and was built as a museum to display the collections of the Royal Dublin Society, which was headquartered in neighboring Leinster House. It has been open as a museum since 1857.

The museum contains no living animals. All of the exhibits are preserved, most of them stuffed. Locally, it's known as the "Dead Zoo." Just inside the front entrance, find the real star of the show, the now-extinct Giant Irish Deer. The rest of the ground floor displays in great detail the animal life in Ireland: mammals, birds, fish, and cases of insects with removable leather covers. Don't forget to look up to see the large fish and whales suspended from the ceiling.

Upstairs, the exhibits are dedicated to the animals of the world, including a giant panda specimen with an interesting origin story. It was collected and smuggled out of China by Irish missionaries and was one of the first giant panda specimens to reach the West. For the foreseeable future, the displays on the upper balconies will be closed for renovation (Free; Tue–Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun 14:00–17:00. Closed Mondays, Good Friday, and Christmas Day; www.museum.ie).

After exiting the Natural History Museum, take a left up Merrion Square West. You will pass first Leinster Lawn (2), with Leinster House set far back from the street. This is the Irish Parliament building, hence the heavy guard on all sides. We'll get a closer look at the front of the building when we turn onto Kildare Street. For now, continue up Merrion Square West. You will pass the National Gallery building, but the entrance is around the corner, we'll stop there later.

The next stop is Science Gallery (3), in the northeast corner of Trinity College. Stay on Merrion Street Lower, take a short left on Lincoln Place—passing the entrance to Sweny's Chemist, a stop made by the protagonist in James Joyce's Ulysses and now a mini Joyce Museum—before turning right up Westland Row. The Science Gallery entrance is just around the corner to the left on Pearse Street.

Science Gallery

On the opposite side of the Trinity campus from the College Green entrance, there is a small but unique free museum. Science Gallery displays themed exhibits, "Where science and art collide." Scientists and students from around the world work with artists to display scientific research in interesting and often hands-on displays. Exhibits rotate every few months, with some buffer time built in between exhibits, so check the website before your visit to see if there is an exhibit on and if the theme captures your imagination. Each exhibit usually has a number of free public events, including lectures, demonstrations, and opening and wrap-up celebrations (Free; when an exhibit is showing, Tue–Fri 12:00–20:00, Sat–Sun 12:00–18:00, check website for schedule variations; www.dublin.sciencegallery.com).

After Science Gallery, come back down Westland Row, Fenian Street, and Merrion Street Lower. At the corner of Merrion Square, turn right on Clare Street and continue until you pass Clare Lane. Just past the lane, look for the National Gallery of Ireland Entrance (4).

National Gallery

The National Gallery is Ireland's free-to-see collection of Irish and European art treasures. Some of the galleries are currently closed for long-term renovations, but there is still much to see.

Level 1 of the Millennium Wing houses works by Irish artists, especially the painter Jack Yeats, brother of famous poet W.B. The Beit Wing displays works by European masters including Picasso, Caravaggio, Vermeer, and Rembrandt. The works here are neither as famous nor as numerous as those in other major European museums.

Check in with the helpful staff on the ground floor for free floor plans, audio guides, and event schedules. You just might catch one of the many free lectures, tours, workshops, or demonstrations that take place at the gallery nearly every day (Free; Mon–Sat 09:15–17:30, Thu until 20:30, Sun 11:00–17:30, Holidays 10:00–17:30; www.nationalgallery.ie).

After the Gallery, exit back out to Clare Street and turn left. You'll soon see the iron fence of Trinity College across the street. Pass the tiny alleyway of Leinster Lane and you'll arrive at Kildare Street. Turn left on Kildare. There may be a one-room temporary exhibit in the National Library Manuscript Room (5), located at No. 2 Kildare Street. Pop in if you have time. If not, continue to the main building of the National Library (6), the iron gate says, helpfully, LIBRARY.

National Library

The Main Library houses the bulk of the National Library's materials. Inside the iron gate, get a good look at Leinster House before going in the main entrance.

In the main foyer, steps on the right side lead down to the exhibition gallery in the basement. The exhibitions are dedicated to the work of Irish literary heroes, and there is no shortage of them from which to choose. The exhibition rotates displays of manuscripts and writings of the many authors, poets, humorists, and playwrights of Ireland.

The reading room upstairs is a fully functional research facility, and is therefore closed to (and not really interesting for) general tourists. If interested, do inquire about the NLI's free Genealogy Advisory Service available for those beginning their Irish heritage research. No appointment is necessary, and services are offered Mon–Wed 09:30–17:00 and Thu–Fri 09:30–16:45 (Free; Exhibition open Mon–Wed 09:30–19:45, Thu–Sat 09:30–16:45, Sun 13:00–16:45; www.nli.ie).

Just across the front lawn of Leinster House is the entrance to the gem of the City Centre museums—the National Museum: Archaeology (7). To get to the entrance, exit back out the LIBRARY gate and turn left down Kildare Street. Just as before, continue (past the Leinster House guards) to another iron gate, this one says, predictably, "MUSEUM."

National Museum: Archaeology

The National Museum: Archaeology is one of the very few must-see sights in Dublin for every visitor. It gets my highest recommendation—and did I mention admission is free? There is a donation box in the main rotunda, and if you have been using this guide exclusively, you can probably afford to drop a bit, right?

Like the other museums in this guide, the building itself is a treasure to see and explore. The main entrance rotunda, which houses the gift shop, was inspired by and designed to mimic that of the Pantheon in Rome. The main body of the museum is laid out around one large grand hall. "Grand" is a fitting word to describe this iron and glass beauty—and we haven't even seen the exhibits!

The ground floor of the grand hall houses the exhibits of prehistoric Ireland and a large collection of gold artifacts. A highlight here is the long (long!) dugout canoe made 4,500 years ago, preserved in a bog, and moved here. An interesting panel tells the story of moving and displaying such a large and fragile artifact.

To the right of the main entrance is the Treasury—a breathtaking collection of intricate jewelry and metalwork. Highlights in this room are the gold model longboat discovered in a lake, the Cross of Cong originally constructed to hold a holy relic (a piece of Christ's cross, now missing), and the famous Tara Brooch. In the rear gallery, a purposefully dark room houses the Faddan More Psalter. This Psalter (a handwritten copy of the book of Psalms) was discovered in a bog in 2006. This book was written around 800 A.D., about the same time as the (not free to see) Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is a bit easier to read because it didn't sit literally buried in mud for 1200 years.

The museum provides a free digital audio guide for the Treasury exhibit. You can download it in advance at their website (www.museum.ie/en/exhibition/list/treasury-audioguide.aspx), stream it wirelessly on your smart device, or pay to use a museum headset.

On the other side of the ground floor, the Kingship and Sacrifice exhibit houses a number of artifacts relating to wealth and power in ancient Ireland. The far and away highlights of this wing are the astonishingly well-preserved bog bodies. Peat bogs restrict decomposition of organic material, so human bodies buried in bogs are naturally mummified and still eerily lifelike. A number of the bog bodies found in Ireland appear to have died violent deaths, which researchers think may have been political assassinations. In any case, the bodies are on display now with an interesting panel describing everything researchers have been able to learn about each one. Those with squeamish stomachs be advised, you are about to look at real and very lifelike human remains. On the way out of the Kingship and Sacrifice exhibit, a special permanent exhibit is dedicated to the study and excavation of the Hill of Tara, long an important strategic and symbolic site for the ancient High Kings of Ireland. See how you can visit the hill in Day Trips from Dublin later in the book.

Bog body torso

Upstairs, find exhibitions and collections of Viking artifacts with a 1990s documentary film playing on a loop, a collection of medieval Irish tools and weapons, early Christian art, a small collection of ancient Egyptian pieces, and temporary exhibits. The upstairs displays are interesting and worthwhile, but not as earthshattering as those on the ground floor (Free; Tue–Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun 14:00–17:00, closed Mondays, Christmas Day, and Good Friday; www.museum.ie).

Finishing Museum Row

Now that we've safely finished our walk around Dublin's Southside Museum Row, you are either on Kildare Street outside the Archaeology Museum or (if you did the walk in reverse...) on Merrion Square outside the Natural History Museum. From Kildare Street, St. Stephen's Green will be to your left, take a right on St. Stephen's Green to get back to the south end of Grafton Street. Alternatively, take a right up Kildare Street to Leinster Street and turn left toward Trinity College, the north end of Grafton Street, and the Temple Bar neighborhood.

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Temple Bar Neighborhood Walk

About this walk

Temple Bar Square

View from the Ha'penny Bridge

Meeting House Square

Pizza, beer, and dessert

Finishing the walk

The one, the only, Dublin's Temple Bar neighborhood. The area now called "Temple Bar" gets its name from its most famous pub, but this watering hole is certainly not the only source of adventure in this colorful quarter. These few square blocks have been host to countless good times of all kinds for the last few centuries, give or take.

The area used to be a prominent shipping and docking station for cargo ships. From the Irish Sea, ships used to sail this far into the city to load and unload. The word "bar" in Temple Bar refers not to a drink service counter (as it does now) but rather a sandy embankment and docking rail for ships. Today, it is an artistic and historic masterpiece by day and a drunken melee by night. Depending on your preferred pastime, plan the time of your visit accordingly.

Maps disagree as to the exact boundaries of what can be called Temple Bar. For my taste in historic and kitschy charm, I put it in the area bordered by Dame Street on the south, the River Liffey on the north, Anglesea Street on the east, and Fishamble Street on the west. This area has the most excitement-per-square-foot for my money and my time.

Every Saturday, Temple Bar is home to three outdoor markets. Vendors sell used books, comic books, vinyl records, and other collectibles at the Book Market in Temple Bar Square (11:00–18:00). Growers, butchers, and bakers sell fresh, locally sourced goodies at the Food Market in Meeting House Square (10:00–16:30). Jewelry, hip clothing, and artwork are on display at the Designer Mart on Cow's Lane (10:00–17:00, closed in winter).

About this walk

Temple Bar is about the experience and the unique vibe. Like other internationally famous neighborhoods (New Orleans' French Quarter comes to mind), Temple Bar has a few important anchor sights with a lot of culture, history, and humanity to be absorbed in between.

The most convenient starting point is the corner of Anglesea Street and Dame Street (College Green). Head down Anglesea Street, catching a glimpse (or more than a glimpse) of the famous VAT House and the Oliver St. John Gogarty. Throughout the course of the walk, enjoy the feel of the cobblestones and don't be afraid to check out shops, galleries, pubs, and cafés on the way.

If in Temple Bar on a weekend, keep your eyes and ears open for visitors from around the world. Dublin is a popular destination for Brits out for a stag or hen do (British for bachelor and bachelorette parties). Many of these parties get started early in the day, so don't be surprised to see the action ramping up shortly after breakfast.

Temple Bar Square

At The Auld Dubliner pub, turn left onto Temple Bar and head into Temple Bar Square (1), you'll know it when you get there. The narrow alleyways all seem to open into this little plaza. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons, book and music vendors set up stalls for the weekly new and used book market. Pubs and restaurants open into the square, and you'll hear live musicians playing a mix of traditional Irish and modern pop music. This sound is piped out into the streets by the bars competing for business. Overheard outside a pub in Temple Bar Square: "I didn't come all the way to [expletive deleted] Ireland to hear [expletive deleted] Coldplay!" Too true.

Glance or stroll up each of the adjoining streets to see the selection of unique shopping, eating, and drinking. Before moving on, go through Merchant's Arch (2) at the northeast corner of Temple Bar Square. The arch opens up to the River Liffey and the famous Ha'penny Bridge (3).

View from the Ha'penny Bridge

This bridge (pronounced "HAY-penny" or "HAPE-ney") was built in 1816 to replace a fleet of ferries that carried passengers across the Liffey. The original contract with the city was to charge a half-penny (ha'penny) toll for one hundred years. The city honored the original deal, and the toll was finally dropped when the contract expired in 1916, an important year for the Irish. Check the bridge entrance to see the remains of the original turnstiles.

Look upriver (west) to see the pedestrian-only Millennium Bridge, built as part of Dublin's strange fascination with commemorating the year 2000. It connects Temple Bar with the north quays (river containment walls, pronounced "KEYS") and a very lovely boardwalk on the north side of the Liffey.

Look downriver (east) to the famous O'Connell Bridge. It was originally built in 1791, but today it bears little resemblance to its original design. It forms the base of O'Connell Street, north Dublin's main historical, political, and commercial drag. It may not look like it from here, but O'Connell Bridge is significantly wider than it is long.

Meeting House Square

Go back into Temple Bar Square and turn right (west) and continue on Temple Bar Street to the pub that gave a neighborhood an identity, The Temple Bar (4). Read the plaque about the Temple family, who developed this neighborhood in the seventeenth century. Get your photos if you can get anywhere near the front door and move on along Temple Bar Street.

Temple Bar—the bar, not the neighborhood

Take the next left onto Eustace Street. As always in Temple Bar, peek in the windows of shops and cafés on your way. Have you seen Super Mario Busker and his bassoon-playing friend Luigi yet? Temple Bar has long been a music, art, and culture hub in Dublin, and music fans should consider a peek backstage at the Irish Rock 'N' Roll Museum Experience (5) on the tiny, pedestrian-only Curved Street (see map).

With stops backstage at the Button Factory—an intimate theater in what was once an actual button factory—and Temple Lane Studios, this guided-tour-only experience isn't a museum in the traditional sense; it's a behind-the-scenes look at a functioning concert venue, rehearsal space, sound engineering college, and recording studio.

Ireland has long been famous for traditional music—the kind you've been hearing blasting from speakers in most Temple Bar pubs—but Ireland has also established a strong foothold in the rock scene. A collection of memorabilia belonging to Thin Lizzy's Phil Lynott, Sinead O'Connor, guitarist Rory Gallagher, and others honors Irish rock history, and a visit to the green room and stage area of the Button Factory let you follow in the footsteps of contemporary rockers on the road. The tour finishes with a walkthrough of a working recording studio; international recording artists still lay down hits here. Hardcore U2 fans will appreciate the collection of recording equipment saved from Windmill Lane Studios (see the Docklands chapter) before they were demolished in 2015.

This one-hour tour is worth the price and recommended for music nerds; those who are not excited at the idea of seeing (insert artist name)'s actual instruments or recording space should consider something else (€16.00; daily 10:00–17:30, book tour in advance or early in the day to avoid sellouts; www.irishrocknrollmuseum.com).

On the right side, look for the sign for Meeting House Square (6). Go through the tunnel and emerge into a sheltered square ringed by tall buildings.

You'll know right away if it's Saturday afternoon, as the square will be alive with delicious food and drink vendors selling everything from fresh oysters on the half shell to artisan olives to venison sausages made from local deer. The Temple Bar Food Market is held here every Saturday from 10:00–16:30, rain or shine. Above the square, large sun and rain umbrellas can be unfolded to shield the square from nature's wrath.

From the square you can check out the Irish Film Institute, which has free screenings of Irish film works on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. Check their website (www.ifi.ie) for the Archive at Lunchtime schedule.

Also in the square, you can visit the Gallery of Photography. There is always a free exhibit of works by Irish and international photographers and occasional free events like photographer lectures and panel discussions (Free; Tue–Sat 11:00–18:00, Sun 13:00–18:00; www.galleryofphotography.ie).

Photography buffs may also enjoy the National Photographic Archive, also in Meeting House Square. This small gallery is part of the National Library of Ireland and features a rotating and always free exhibit of historical photographs from the Library's collection (Free; Mon–Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun 12:00–17:00;  www.nli.ie/en/national-photographic-archive.aspx).

When you're ready, leave Meeting House Square on the north side (the exit that passes the National Photographic Archive), and turn left onto Essex Street. You'll pass a number of out-of-the-way Temple Bar pubs until you reach Parliament Street, the first car-friendly road you will have seen since entering the Temple Bar neighborhood.

Beer, pizza, and dessert

At the corner of Essex and Parliament Street is one of my favorite Dublin pubs, Porterhouse (7). This brewpub makes a full line of craft brews and features a great lineup of Irish and international craft beers on tap and in the cask. Pub grub is good here, but you certainly have your pick of unique and interesting food anywhere in Temple Bar (www.porterhousebrewco.com).

Near Porterhouse on Crane Lane, try some of Dublin's best (and hippest) pizza at Skinflint (8). This little restaurant is semi-hidden in what looks like a deserted alley, but their wood-fired pizza is affordable, made with high-quality local ingredients, and served on tables made from repurposed doors. Consider making a reservation online before you get there (www.joburger.ie/skinflint).

Two blocks west of Parliament Street is the pedestrian-only Cow's Lane. Check out the outdoor Saturday Designer Mart, the art and clothing designer galleries, and one of Dublin's best-known bakery cafés, The Queen of Tarts (9). This is a very popular breakfast and lunch stop for locals, but it also make a great post-Skinflint stop for some coffee and a pastry (www.queenoftarts.ie).

Finishing the walk

If and when you are ever ready to head back to civilization, Temple Bar is close to everything in City Centre. From Porterhouse, head south (away from the river) on Parliament Street to meet up with Dame Street. City Hall is right at this intersection, and Dublin Castle is just behind it.

A few blocks to the west (to the right when facing City Hall) is the rest of Viking-Age Dublin, with Christ Church Cathedral (not free) St. Audeon's Church (free), and St. Patrick's Cathedral (not free).

To get back to Grafton Street and Trinity College, head east on Dame Street to College Green, where this walk began all those pints ago.

If you are heading to the north side of town, why not cross Grattan Bridge (at Parliament Street) and take the Riverside Walk? It's out of the way of most of the fast-walking commuters and offers a great view of the south side, the bridges (especially the Ha'penny), and the river itself.

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Viking-Age Dublin

Early history

Dublin City Hall

Dublin Castle

Courtyard, State Apartments, and Medieval Undercroft

Dubh Linn Gardens

Chester Beatty Library

Cathedral Corner

St. Patrick's Cathedral and St. Valentine

Where to go from here

Just west of Temple Bar you'll find the oldest power center of Dublin, the land of the Vikings. The first Scandinavian invaders set up shop here when they arrived in the 800s in a landscape that looked very much different than what you see today. From the time of that first Viking stronghold (and possibly Iron Age settlements before) to the very recent past, this neighborhood was the very center of both political and church power in Ireland.

Here in the Viking Quarter, you can see an English castle stronghold with a very interestingly positioned statue, two famous Catholic cathedrals—neither of which is Catholic today—one of the best free collections of Asian and Middle Eastern art and literature anywhere, and the theatre that hosted the premiere of G.F. Handel's Messiah.

Early history

In the area near Dublin Castle today, a small river, the Poddle, joined the Liffey. At the junction of the rivers, the Poddle spread out into a large pond or pool. The local Gaelic people living here called it "Dubh Linn" (DOOV lin), meaning "Black Pool" in early Irish. The Poddle still flows into the river nearby, but has gone underground; it now joins the Liffey through a drain on Wellington Quay just to the north.

When the seafaring Vikings came with their longboats, this calm backwater provided the perfect natural docking station from which to launch their conquering mission. When they heard the locals pronounce the name for their handy cove, they just adopted the name into their own language as "Dyflinn." As a side note, the official Irish name for Dublin then and now is Baile Átha Cliath (BALL-ya AH-ha KLEE-ya), which refers to an ancient river crossing point farther upstream from City Centre today. The first permanent city settlement sprung up around the walls of the Dublin Castle area, so most of the oldest remaining structures (or pieces of them) are on display there.

Dublin City Hall

The easiest landmark from which to start your Viking-Age Dublin exploration is the green-domed Dublin City Hall (1) where Parliament Street meets Dame Street. To get here from Temple Bar, head west to Parliament, turn south (away from the river) and walk uphill to the T intersection. From Grafton Street, head up to College Green and walk straight west, following College Green as it turns into Dame Street.

City Hall has two main entrances, the entrance on the east side leads directly into the basement level with a coffee shop, toilets, and a (not free) historical exhibit. Going upstairs or entering through the west entrance takes you to the fabulous and free main rotunda. Check out the statues of Irish heroes, including the largely oversized Daniel O'Connell. These statues used to live outdoors until the stone started to show signs of damage from pigeon droppings. Note the interesting way in which these characters are portrayed, wearing Victorian-era suits and cravats under Classical togas.

Before you leave, check out the murals high around the central ring of the rotunda. These twelve murals depict the traditional heraldry of the four ancient provinces of Ireland and scenes from Irish myth and legend (Main Rotunda: Free; Mon–Sat 10:00–17:15; Basement Exhibition: €4.00; Mon–Sat 10:00–15:45; www.dublincity.ie).

If you need some sustenance before heading on, consider Beshoff Bros. for local favorite fish and chips at a good price. The small storefront is right next to the Olympia Theatre, across Dame Street from City Hall.

Dublin in Detail: The Four Provinces

_Before the modern counties of Ireland, the island was politically divided into provincial kingdoms with blurry boundaries, each with its own royal family and historical reputation. Dublin is in the province of Leinster (_ LINN-ster _), covering most of east and southeast Ireland. Cork is the principal city of Munster, Galway and the west of Ireland are in Connacht (_ CON-ut _). The six counties of what is now Northern Ireland PLUS Cavan, Donegal, and Monaghan in the Republic make up the province of Ulster. A fifth kingdom, Mide (from which County Meath gets its name) existed to the northwest of Dublin, but was later incorporated into Leinster._

Each province has its own heraldry and flag: the harp of Leinster, the three crowns of Munster, the black eagle and swordarm of Connacht, and the Red Hand of Ulster—taken from a grisly story in which an Ulsterman cut off his own hand and threw it across the finish line ahead of his opponent to win a high-stakes race.

The provinces have next to no political significance today—especially Ulster, which straddles an international boundary—but they live on in regional pride and in the sports leagues. The top-tier Irish rugby association fields a team from each province, and the intercounty Gaelic sports play provincial championships before the All-Ireland finals. Look for the symbols on flags, banners, and even advertisements trying to capitalize on provincial pride.

"Provinces of Ireland" by Caomhan27 - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Commons -  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Provinces_of_Ireland.svg#/media/File:Provinces_of_Ireland.svg

Dublin Castle

Behind City Hall, you can enter Dublin Castle (2). From here, the British ruled Ireland by placing high-level officials and London representatives in the State Apartments. During the Irish War of Independence and the Irish Civil War later, this castle served as a key symbolic and strategic stronghold. Today, the Irish have full control of the castle and have transformed it fully into a tourist attraction and fancy event center.

This complex has been built in bits and pieces since its founding in the early thirteenth century, so you'll see modern buildings blended and joined with medieval ones. Note the big Norman Tower just off the main courtyard from 1226 attached to the Neo-Gothic Chapel Royal from 1814 as an example of this magpie-style architecture. The Norman Tower is the last remaining of the four corner towers that defended the first stone castle here. The tower also made one of the four corners of medieval Dublin—the city was surrounded by a wall of which this tower was an important part. The much younger attached church was originally Anglican Protestant, but became Roman Catholic much later. This is a rare example of the Catholics taking a church from the Anglicans; the opposite was much more common (see Christ Church and St. Patrick's Cathedrals).

The gate behind the west door of City Hall leads directly into the castle courtyard, the eastern gate opens into a much less historical gift shop and parking lot. If you come in the eastern gate, turn right and walk uphill into the main courtyard.

Courtyard, State Apartments, and Medieval Undercroft

The main courtyard is surrounded by iron gates and stone walls. Check out the ring of fancy apartments and offices all facing the cobbles of the square. A Dublin classic is perched above the gate nearest City Hall. Look at the statue of Lady Justice, she does not have a blindfold and is looking in to the courtyard. The famous Dublin saying about her goes:

There she stands, above her station; her face to the Castle, her arse to the Nation!

This should give you an idea of what the Irish thought of their Imperial British Overlords for all those years.

Just inside the doors on the south side of the courtyard, you can buy your tickets for the State Apartments. These interior rooms are like a Palace-of-Versailles-light, impressive but not as extravagant. St. Patrick's Hall is the highlight of the rooms open to visitors. Every president of Ireland has been sworn into office in this cavernous, ornate ballroom. Visiting dignitaries (including several U.S. Presidents and two British Queens) are often brought here for fancy State dinners and functions. The State Apartments are open for a self-guided poke around or a guided tour. Both are the same price.

The State Apartments tour comes with a guided tour of the Medieval Undercroft. In the 1990s, archaeologists discovered the foundation of another Norman Tower under the basement of the administration buildings across the parking lot from the still-standing tower and Chapel Royal. Upon further digging, they discovered sections of the old castle wall, moat, and the city wall from the 13th century. From this find, they were able to more accurately map the layout of the medieval Dublin Castle and the city itself. The Undercroft tour is about 20 minutes and adds a lot of value to the already affordable State Apartments ticket (Courtyard: Free; State Apartments and Medieval Undercroft Tour: €4.50, free on the first Wed of each month; Mon–Sat 10:00–16:45, Sun 12:00–16:45; www.dublincastle.ie).

Norman Tower and Dubh Linn Gardens

Dubh Linn Gardens

Around the Neo-Gothic church from the main courtyard, make your way to the quiet green space of the Dubh Linn Gardens (3). This green, grassy circle sits on the spot of the original black pool from which Dublin gets its English (but not Irish) name. Think about how much the landscape has changed in the last thousand years. The banks of the River Liffey used to be here, and a small tributary met the main river on this spot, forming a round backwater. This area is now higher in elevation than the Liffey and the old settlement, and the River Poddle now flows deep underground.

On the north side of the circle, take a look at the Garda Síochána Memorial Garden. This peaceful corner was built to honor Irish police officers who have died in the line of duty. An Garda Síochána is the official name of the unarmed Irish police force, and the officers are called "guards" in English.

The main circular garden is ringed with curved brick "paths" that form a huge Celtic design that is much easier to see from the air. This round garden is actually a cleverly hidden but seldom-used helipad.

At the eastern end of the park, the fairytale-looking battlements grace the façade of the Coach House. The building isn't as old as it looks (built in 1833) and is mostly used for expensive private parties today. Take a photo and turn to the south for the entrance of the...

Chester Beatty Library

The fantastic (and free) Chester Beatty Library (4) is one of the best museums in Dublin—and it has little to do with anything Irish. Mr. Beatty was a wealthy American mining magnate who spent his life and fortune traveling the world in search of rare pieces of art and literature from Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. When he died, he left his entire collection to be displayed to the public permanently in Dublin.

The first floor of the museum holds the bulk of the main collection in one large room. Look for the Japanese story scrolls, Chinese books engraved on pages of solid jade, a racy ancient Egyptian love poem written in hieroglyphics, and intricately carved jade snuff bottles, just to name a few highlights. The second floor houses the collection of sacred texts and art from many world religions. Don't miss the illuminated Qur'an and books of the bible printed on papyrus.

On the top floor of the building, there is a small roof garden. The views of the largely unimpressive Dublin skyline are mostly obscured, but the garden is a great place to sit down, pull out your map, and plan the rest of your day (Free; Mon–Fri 10:00–17:00, Sat 11:00–17:00, Sun 13:00–17:00, closed Mondays Oct–Apr; www.cbl.ie).

Cathedral Corner

Just west of City Hall and Dublin Castle, Cathedral Corner (my name for it) awaits. The first and most imposing specimen is Christ Church Cathedral (5) on the west end of Lord Edward Street. This area has been home to a church of some kind for more than 1000 years, but most of the current building is from the 1800s. On the front side of the main building (facing south), take a peek into the foundation of the old Chapter House.

Christ Church Cathedral | Photo: Anne Reiva

Inside, the church offers tours of the crypt and the sanctuary. The sanctuary houses the tomb of Strongbow, the leader of the Anglo-Normans who conquered Dublin in the 1100s. In the crypt, they have on display a naturally mummified cat and rat, both found dried and preserved in an old organ pipe. The church charges admission for the interior sanctuary and crypt displays, so I just get my exterior photos and move on (€6.00; Mon–Sat opens at 09:00, Sun 12:30–14:30 and 16:30–18:00; www.christchurchdublin.ie).

The church has a combo package with the nearby Dublinia Viking and Medieval Dublin Museum. The exhibits are less meaningful and informative than the ones that can be seen for free over in the National Museum, so I give this one a skip (Dublinia only: €8.50; Daily 10:00–17:30; www.dublinia.ie).

The Christ Church area is also home to some hidden history. When builders were digging the foundation for the Wood Quay city offices and some road development between Christ Church and the River Liffey, they discovered a very well-preserved Viking city. Controversially, the city bulldozed the archaeological find in the name of speedy construction of the much-needed city offices. Some of the artifacts and buildings were preserved, but much was lost. Part of the old city wall is on display in the basement of the Wood Quay offices. In this same neighborhood, long before the city office controversy, G.F. Handel premiered his famous oratorio Messiah (all together now, HAAAAAW LE LU IA!) in the concert hall on Fishamble Street.

Also on tiny Fishamble Street, music lovers can stop by the Contemporary Music Centre. This organization promotes and supports Irish musicians and composers, hosting a number of free concerts and interviews at various venues throughout the year and keeping a sizable library of scores and recordings of the music of Irish composers and performers. If you are interested in exploring modern music, stop by to check out the newest CD compilation and thumb through a few scores. Check their online calendar to see if there is a free concert scheduled during your visit (Free; Mon–Fri 10:00-17:30; www.cmc.ie).

If you need a break before moving on, the Bull and Castle pub and restaurant on Christ Church Corner has a nice selection of Irish craft beers and a well-regarded mid-scale restaurant (bull-and-castle.fxbuckley.ie).

The real free gem of Cathedral Corner is just west of Christ Church on High Street. St. Audeon's Church   (6) is one of many free properties operated by Heritage Ireland, and well worth a short visit. The first church was built in the middle ages within the old city walls of Dublin. Sections of the old walls and windows of the original building remain, as does a piece of the medieval cobbled street—several feet beneath the floor level of the current structure. Interestingly, the Anglican Church of Ireland built another church inside the old ruins, which is a unique piece of church architecture and design in its own right. Both the old church ruins and current church are free to visit—as long as there isn't a service in the still-operating Anglican Church sanctuary. After viewing the church, take a stroll through the public park on the west side of the church complex, under which there are thousands of unmarked graves of old church parishioners. The northern edge of the park, overlooking the river, is bordered by the largest remaining section of the old city wall and the only remaining gate, another piece of the wall can be seen nearby at the corner of Cornmarket and Lamb Alley (Free; Apr 23–Oct 21 9:30–17:30;  www.heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/staudoenschurch).

After the holy history lesson, you might be thirsty. The touristy Brazen Head Pub (7) bills itself as Dublin's oldest, first established in 1198. Pub food is serviceable and available all day, but the beer selection is small. Check the schedule for live music every night and Sunday afternoons (www.brazenhead.com).

St. Patrick's Cathedral and St. Valentine

If you must see more churches, head straight south of Christ Church on Werburgh Street, maybe stopping by Leo Burdocks fish and chips, Dublin's oldest and most celebrity-visited chipper.

Before long, you'll see the pointy spire of St. Patrick's Cathedral (8). This church is dedicated to Ireland's most famous Roman Catholic resident—and it's a Protestant cathedral. Yes, for those keeping score at home, that's two Anglican cathedrals almost within sight of one another. This site is reportedly where St. Patrick baptized the local Pagan population, legitimizing Christianity in Ireland. The oldest parts of the current building date back to 1220.

St. Patrick's Cathedral

During the Reformation, the English church seized it from the Catholics and gutted the extravagant decorations in favor of austere Protestant minimalism. The current church was fixed up with money from the Guinness family, and it's now open for paid visitors. The Anglican Church uses the "donations" at Christ Church and St. Patrick's to keep up these buildings and non-revenue rural churches.

If you are already down here, the attached public park is home to an interesting Literary Parade, a sort of wall-of-fame for Irish writers including Jonathan Swift, former Dean of St. Patrick's Cathedral and author of Gulliver's Travels. I like to visit the park and admire the church for free; the church interior is beautiful, but the entrance fee is a bit steep unless you can catch a guided tour (€6.00; Mon–Fri 9:00–17:00, Sat 9:00–18:00, Sun open at intervals between services; www.stpatrickscathedral.ie).

Around the corner from the St. Patrick's entrance, find the tiny gate to Marsh's Library (9). This was Dublin's first public library, first opened in 1707. Since then, it has been used by many of Ireland's most famous scholars, and maintains a scholarly research room today. It is no longer a public library exactly—you won't be able to check out any of its 25,000 leather-bound volumes—but it is open for visitors to take a quick tour. It isn't free, but the admission price is worth it for bookish types and history fans. Maximize the admission investment with one of the daily guided tours (€3.00; 09:30–17:00 weekdays, 10:00–17:00 Sat, closed Sun and Tue; www.marshlibrary.ie).

If you have more time and energy and you really want to impress your friends at home, you can visit the physical remains of St. Valentine himself at the nearby Carmelite Church Whitefriar Street (10). To get there, head east from St. Patrick's on Golden Lane from the northeast corner of St. Patrick's Park, continue east onto Longford St. Little and turn right (south) on Aungier Street. The church's address is on Whitefriar Street, but the main visitor entrance is from the big, safe, shopping district of Aungier Street.

_Dublin in Detail: Saint Valentine in Dublin?_

The legend of Saint Valentine is historically murky, but nonetheless cute. It is even possible that the Valentine we know may have been cobbled together from two Roman martyrs of the same time and same name. The Irish, of course, understand that a good story is much better than the truth, anyway. The most popular stories of the third-century Roman priest Valentius tell of his commitment to love and marriage in a time of war and strife in Ancient Rome. He was jailed and martyred for conducting secret Christian marriage ceremonies, and we celebrate his feast day with flowers, candy, and cards for our loved ones today.

In 1835, an Irish priest from this church visited Rome and so impressed the Vatican higher-ups that he was awarded a holy relic from Pope Gregory XVI—a small piece of St. Valentine's body and a vial of his blood. The relic was brought back to Dublin and put on display in the church. Interestingly, they were put into storage after their popular appeal faded, and were only restored to the church sanctuary after they were re-discovered during a twentieth-century renovation.

Today, couples engaged to be married come to Whitefriar Street for a special Valentine's Day mass, where their rings are blessed under the watchful eye of the Patron Saint of Love himself.

To visit the relic of St. Valentine, pop into the church and look to the far right hand corner as you enter the sanctuary. The statue above the relics is clothed in red robes, signifying his martyrdom, and looks down at the small, sealed casket of his remains (Free but donations are welcome; open daily; www.whitefriarstreetchurch.ie).

Where to go from here

If you end your Viking Dublin experience at Christ Church, St. Audeon's, or The Brazen Head, you are just across the River Liffey from the Smithfield neighborhood. A quick walk west on the street in front of St. Audeon's (High St., then Cornmarket, then Thomas, then James's) will get you to the Guinness Storehouse. Read more about these and others in the West Dublin chapter.

If you end up at St. Patrick's or Whitefriar Street Church, you can backtrack north to Christ Church and Temple Bar or head north and east to reach the Creative Quarter, then Grafton Street and St. Stephen's Green.

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City Centre North

O'Connell Street

Parnell Square

Northside shopping district

Henry Street

Moore Street

Capel Street

Riverside Walk

Historically, the north side of the River Liffey was Dublin's working-class, industrial neighborhood. The money stayed in the south, while the laborers worked in the north. Today, modern development has evened out the distribution of wealth somewhat, but the north side of the river still has an exaggerated reputation for poverty, drug abuse, and crime.

Don't let this seedy reputation keep you away from this busy and historic side of the city. The north side has a lot going for it, from the prosperous Henry Street shopping district, to the monument-strewn O'Connell Street, to one of the best river views in Europe.

Cheapskate travelers will find most of the northern entertainment to be of the walk-around-and-see-the-stuff variety, but that's better than paying admission fees, right?

O'Connell Street

The central hub and main access point to the north side of the river is O'Connell Bridge (1), which opens to O'Connell Street. This spot has had a bridge on it since 1791, but very little remains of that original structure, including the name. Today, the bridge (and the huge, angel-ringed statue) are named for Daniel O'Connell, known as the "Emancipator" among the Irish. He was an early champion for Irish Catholic civil rights and independence in the British Parliament. It is the only traffic bridge in Europe that is wider than it is long. It's difficult to see from ground level, but the measurements can't lie: 147 feet (45 meters) across the river and 164 feet (50 meters) from side to side.

Father Pat Noise

If you can, try to cross the bridge on the west side, the left side as you're heading north. On the rail, look for a small bronze plaque. This is the infamous dedication to a farcical and fictional Catholic priest, the Father Pat Noise Memorial. Read the inscription: "He died under suspicious circumstances when his carriage plunged into the Liffey..." This plaque was installed by some clever pranksters in the depression left by the control box of an ill-planned millennium countdown clock projected in green light on the river below the bridge. When the clock was removed following numerous visibility and electrical issues, this plaque mysteriously appeared one night. When it was noticed, the City Council planned to have it removed, but public outcry demanded that this monument to a fictional character stay in place. There it sits today, more a monument to the tricky and irreverent Irish spirit than to a revolutionary hero.

Daniel O'Connell is rarely without his pigeon hat

On O'Connell Street itself, try to make your way up the central island of this busy road. Foot traffic is much lighter and the views of both sides of the street are better. The big cloaked man above the angels is the Daniel O'Connell Monument. Take a close look at the statue, particularly the angels. Note the scuffs and dents—these are said to be bullet holes from various firefights on this street during the last century. For many visitors, it is difficult to imagine violence here between such friendly people, but sectarian fighting and violence continue, as recently as 2006 here on O'Connell Street.

On the left side of the street, just before the big metal pole, take a look at the GPO, or General Post Office (2). This building is much more than just a mail center for the Irish. During the 1916 Easter Rising, Republicans barricaded themselves here and fought it out with the British army on the street outside. The British eventually took the building and arrested the leaders of the Rising. If you are close enough, you can see the bullet damage from this fight on the columns in front of the building. Inside the front window, you'll see the sculpture of the mythical Irish hero Setanta, whose name and image you might see referenced in various places around the country. You can visit the grand main hall and get a better look at the rather gruesome sculpture for free, and even purchase some stamps—it's a functioning post office after all.

In March 2016, the GPO marked the anniversary of the Rising with the opening of a brand-new museum, GPO Witness History. The €10 million museum project included a major renovation and restoration of large, unused parts of the old building, most notably the long-neglected inner courtyard. On the one-hour, self-guided tour, check out the collection of artifacts used by the Rising rebels, interpretive photographs and video recreations of O'Connell Street (officially Sackville Street at the time) before, during, and after the fighting.

This flashy presentation is the most modern take on the events of the Rising in town, and worth a look if you are interested in the events of the day and won't have time to visit the larger-but-stuffier collections over at the (free) Decorative Arts and History Museum at Collins Barracks (€10.00; daily 09:00–16:30; www.gpowitnesshistory.ie).

Dublin in Detail: The Easter Rising

_In the early morning hours of April 24, 1916—the Monday after Easter—a coordinated volunteer army marched into and seized various centers of British power in Dublin. They easily took the General Post Office and there set up their headquarters. Irish Republic flags were raised and Patrick Pearse stood outside the front door of the GPO and loudly read the Irish Proclamation to all gathered._

"IRISHMEN AND IRISHWOMEN: In the name of God and of the dead generations from which she receives her old tradition of nationhood, Ireland, through us, summons her children to her flag and strikes for her freedom..."

Other political and strategic positions around the city—including a cookie bakery—were taken with relatively little resistance and few casualties by either side. The British, caught off guard by the attack but having the advantage of arms and numbers, recovered quickly and suppressed the Rising within a week. The leaders of the rebellion were arrested, court-martialed, and most were executed.

After the Rising, unrest slowly grew as the Irish people saw the brutal response to the rebellion, and the Republican movement continued to swell, culminating finally in the War of Independence and the eventual establishment of an independent Republic of Ireland.

Today, the Rising is somberly celebrated each year in front of the General Post Office. In 1966, for the fiftieth anniversary, the Garden of Remembrance was tastefully dedicated, but the IRA had other celebrations in mind, and committed acts of violence and destruction. For several years leading up to the 100-year anniversary, nervous politicians wondered how they could best celebrate and remember the Rising in 2016 peacefully and sensitively.

A number of commemorative events to celebrate the centenary of the Rising will take place at various important locations around the city through the spring. After the official Rising celebrations at the end of March, many of Dublin's museums and public places will keep special 1916-themed exhibits on display for the rest of the year. See more about the celebrations at www.ireland.ie.

Study up on your Rising knowledge before your visit with an entertaining interactive guided tour built with Google's Street View technology. This narrated tour covers most of the important story beats and notable locations of the Rising with clickable targets for more interpretive material for each stop <https://dublinrising.withgoogle.com/welcome/>.

Easily the most curious sight on the north side, the Spire of Dublin or the Monument of Light is hard to miss almost anywhere in the city. It was constructed from 2002–2003, when Ireland's economy was booming and they literally had more money than they knew what to do with. Feelings for this monument-to-nothing-in-particular vary among the locals. Some see it as a unique Dublin skyline icon, others see it as the worst kind of wasteful government decadence that stings particularly badly now—when business isn't booming like it was 20 years ago. It is just short of 400 feet (about 121 meters) tall, and the irregular patterns on the ground-level section mimic geological rock samples taken from the ground directly beneath the Spire. Cheeky Dubliners have given it a variety of (mostly phallic) rhyming nicknames like the "Stiffey by the Liffey," the "Erection at the Intersection," the "Nail in the Pale," the "Rod to God," and the "Stiletto in the Ghetto," among many others.

Jim Larkin and the Spire | Photo: Emily Petruccelli

Before the Spire, this was the site of Nelson's Pillar, a tall monument to Admiral Nelson. Nelson was a British Navy hero also memorialized on a pillar in Trafalgar Square in London. In 1966, the Irish Republican Army (IRA), a radical terrorist group, decided that Dublin was no place for a monument to a British hero and bombed the pillar and statue to rubble. The head of the statue is on display in the upper-level reading room at the Pearse Street public library.

Nearby, the man shouting with outstretched arms is Jim Larkin. "Big Jim" as he is sometimes known was a trade union leader who helped to lead the 1913 Dublin Lockout that escalated to a violent demonstration right here on O'Connell Street. The statue pose is based on a famous photograph of Big Jim in full fury, and it is often repurposed and parodied.

Parnell Square

If you continue up O'Connell Street from the Spire, you'll hit Parnell Square (3). The monument here is to Charles Stewart Parnell, who pushed for Irish Home Rule in the British Parliament in the nineteenth century. One block further north, the large park on the west side of the street is the Garden of Remembrance (4), Ireland's memorial to all those who gave their lives in the cause of Irish freedom. In the cross-shaped pool, mosaic art of weapons and shields pays homage to the Celtic tradition of breaking weapons and throwing them into rivers when two warring sides came to peace. At the end of the garden, the large sculpture depicts the Irish legend Children of Lir, in which the children of a mythic Irish king are turned into swans. This garden will be particularly busy in 2016 as Ireland remembers the fallen in the week of the Rising (Free; Apr–Sep 08:30–18:00, Oct–Mar 09:30–16:00).

Children of Lir

On the north side of the Garden of Remembrance, the small Dublin Writers Museum is dedicated to the many famous writers that have come from this small country. Many literature buffs see Dublin as something of a holy land and thus a stop at this museum (and the nearby James Joyce Cultural Centre) is mandatory. The admission cost and very narrow focus make this museum a see-it-if-you-must rather than a must-see stop for me (€7.50; daily 09:45–16:45; www.writersmuseum.com).

Next to the Writers Museum is the Hugh Lane Gallery, a free art museum operated by Dublin City Council. The permanent collection is a bit less impressive than the National Gallery of Ireland on Merrion Square, but works of many of the same Irish artists are on display. The gallery has an active schedule of lectures, discussions, and free (donation requested) classical chamber music concerts every Sunday at noon. The concerts draw full houses, so try to arrive early (Free; Tue–Thu 10:00–18:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun 11:00–17:00; www.hughlane.ie).

Northside shopping district

From O'Connell Street west to Smithfield, you'll be in Dublin's real shopping district. Grafton Street and the Creative Quarter have their share of hip, boutique shopping, but these bustling streets are packed with local Dubliners, rural Irish residents in town for a bit o' shoppin', and international tourists. With so many people around, you can expect the usual crowded-street scene: street performers (buskers), carts selling all manner of unlicensed clothing and souvenirs, and, sadly, pickpockets. Be aware.

Henry Street

Henry Street, directly west of the Spire, is the big shopping draw. Small storefronts compete with huge department stores and indoor shopping centers. Henry runs two long blocks to Jervis Street, where it silently changes name to Mary Street. The name doesn't matter here, the shopping does. The two largest indoor shopping centers have entrances directly across the street from one another: the Ilac Centre on the north and the Jervis Centre on the south. The Ilac Centre (5) has free toilets behind the food court and free Wi-Fi in the public library branch on the upper floor. If children are part of your travel equation, make sure to see (or avoid) the huge Smyth's Toy Store at the corner of Henry and Jervis.

If you need something practical and inexpensive (like clothing, shoes, or household items), check at the large Penney's (no relation to J.C. Penney in the States) for no-frills department store fare. Other cheap goods can be found in any Dealz or Euro Giant store. These are both flat-price chains with stores here on Henry and around the city.

Moore Street

For a bit of colorful adventure, take a stroll through the daily Moore Street Market (6). From the Spire, turn west onto Henry Street then take the second right when you see the fruit and flower carts. These vendors are here every day selling almost suspiciously inexpensive produce and flowers.

In addition to the above-board fruit carts, you may see others quietly (or loudly) selling stolen smartphones (let it be a reminder to be careful in crowds) and illegal cigarettes and tobacco. These crooks smuggle tobacco into Ireland from Eastern Europe and sell it on the street to anyone looking to duck the quickly rising tobacco tax. If you hang around, you will probably see "respectable" people in business attire buying street cigs on lunch break.

The fruit and vegetable deals are great at the carts, and the crooks know their place here. Be aware and you'll be safe. The storefronts on the street are home to ethnic groceries from a number of Eastern European, Middle Eastern, African, and Asian countries. Dublin is becoming more diverse and cosmopolitan every year.

Capel Street

The unique and colorful shopping opportunities continue in and around the Henry/Mary equator. Capel (rhymes with maple) Street at the west end of Mary Street might have the most interesting mix. Look for charity thrift shops, adult entertainment supplies, military surplus, ethnic groceries, and a yarn shop all within a few blocks. Capel Street is also home to a number of great pubs. McNeill's (7) pub and music shop has traditional music sessions most nights from 21:30, check the sign outside the door (140 Capel Street, Facebook page only, no official website). Beerhouse (8) at the north tip of Capel Street has a great and rotating selection of less-expensive Irish and international craft beers on tap in a retro-hip atmosphere (www.beerhousedublin.com).

Riverside Walk

More than Trinity College, more than Guinness, more than anything else, the River Liffey is the real centerpiece and defining characteristic of Dublin. While not nearly the largest river in Ireland (that honor belongs to the Shannon, by a wide margin), it is arguably the most important commercially and historically. Without this large, eastward-facing river mouth, early Irish Celts—and their Viking and Christian successors—wouldn't have settled here and built the city we all know and love today.

From the bottom end of Capel Street, you can begin a nice stroll along this urban river, where some great sights await the penny-pinching tourist. Keep in mind that this is a very busy part of town for traffic and pedestrians, particularly around O'Connell Street. The best time for this stroll is early in the morning when the light is perfect on the river and the crowds are still in bed.

A free audio version of this tour is available in podcast form on the iTunes store and for direct download at frugalguidedublin.podomatic.com.

About this walk

The full walking route follows the north side of the river from Capel Street to the Samuel Beckett Bridge and Spencer Dock. For an abbreviated stroll, distant views of most of the highlights can be had in a stretch from the Ha'penny Bridge to the Famine Memorial. The full walk from the bottom of Capel Street to the Samuel Beckett Bridge is 1.2 miles (1.9 kilometers), and takes about 45 minutes—depending on traffic and street crossings.

You'll be passing a number of bridges as you follow the river. I've shared some stories about these bridges, but if you want to explore them further, check out Bridges of Dublin, an interesting resource maintained and updated by Dublin City Council (www.bridgesofdublin.ie).

First, take a look at the river itself. The Liffey, despite looking wide and deep here in City Centre, is really quite a small river. It begins in the Dublin Mountains just a few miles outside of town and is the size of a small stream for most of its length. The wide river you see here is tidal and mostly seawater flowing in from Dublin Bay. Look for the high-water mark on the walls to see where the river level is at high tide. There are two high and two low tides each day; it's always either rising or falling. If the tide is all the way in, the water nearly kisses the bottom of the bridges; when very low, try to ignore the many bicycles, shopping carts, and traffic cones stuck in the silt and mud at the very bottom.

If you start from Capel Street, hop on the Liffey boardwalk and head downstream to the shiny pedestrian bridge at the bottom of Jervis Street. This is Dublin's Millennium Bridge (1). In the late 1990s, Dublin sponsored a bridge-designing contest as yet another part of its strange fascination with the year 2000. The winning design that you see here was built in one piece in Carlow, Ireland and shipped here on a boat before being installed by crane. Look upriver from the middle of the bridge as you bounce and shimmy with this flexible-by-design bridge. The pillared, green-domed building on the north side is the Four Courts, headquarters of Ireland's Supreme Court. Like many central government buildings, the Four Courts was an important strategic and symbolic stronghold for fighters in both Ireland's War of Independence and the immediately following Irish Civil War. On the south bank, farther upriver, the short, green-domed tower is St. Patrick's Windmill, originally built by a riverside whiskey distillery. Today, it marks the location of the massive Guinness Brewery just across the street. If the tide is low enough, you may see a large drain in the wall on the south bank. This is where the River Poddle now meets the Liffey. This small river used to flow at ground level, and the Viking settlers chose the meeting of the Poddle and the Liffey for their first settlement. See more in Viking-Age Dublin.

Follow the next segment of boardwalk to the famous Ha'penny Bridge (2). This bridge was built to replace a dilapidated fleet of ferries across the Liffey in 1816. To appease the operator of the now-useless ferries, the city allowed him and his estate to collect the half-penny (ha'penny) toll from the bridge for one hundred years. The contract was honored, and the bridge finally opened for free passage in 1916. It was the first (and for a long time, the only) pedestrian bridge in Dublin. Try to resist the temptation to put a padlock on the metal of the bridge. The locks build up, damage the paint, and cause weight capacity problems.

Ha'penny Bridge

Hop off the north side of the bridge and take a peek across the road to a very special statue. Dubliners have an interesting relationship with their monuments. They seem to respect their presence, but come up with derogatory, rhyming nicknames for them. The oversized statue of the two women on the bench with the local department store Arnotts shopping bags is known lovingly (?) as the "Hags with the Bags." Near the Hags, the doorway labeled The Grand Social is home to the Saturday-only Ha'penny Flea Market from 12:00–18:00. Vendors of vintage clothing, incense, craft soap, vinyl records, and other hip fare come together with a cheap-drinks bar to make a very interesting shopping or people-watching experience (www.thegrandsocial.ie).

From the Ha'penny Bridge, take the boardwalk to O'Connell Bridge. Read more about the bridge—including the Father Pat Noise Memorial—earlier in this chapter. Cross to the center of the bridge, then to the Daniel O'Connell Monument. You can leave the Riverside Walk now to stroll up O'Connell Street and see its monuments and important buildings if you haven't done so already, or continue by crossing back to the riverside and the boardwalk.

Follow the boardwalk to the next bridge. Rosie Hackett Bridge (3) is Dublin's newest, opening to pedestrian, bicycle, and public transport traffic in 2014. It may seem strange to have another bridge so close to two others, but this one has a special purpose. It is a public-transport-priority bridge, closed to private cars. It will also be the crossing point of the extended Luas (light rail) line when they finally finish this difficult expansion project. The name, Rosie Hackett, was voted on by the citizens of Dublin to honor a 1916 Irish freedom fighter and suffragette.

Follow the boardwalk along the river, noticing that it shifts its direction slightly, opening up the view all the way to the sea. The next long limestone building with the green dome is the Custom House, very important in a time when much of Ireland's trade came through Dublin's Docklands. Cargo ships coming into and out of the port had to register and pay taxes on everything in their holds right here. It was another important strategic building during the War of Independence, and was burned down in an attempt to destroy important records and disrupt the English tariff-collecting system. Note the rebuilt dome, made of darker stone quarried from Ireland rather than the lighter, English stone of the lower level.

Just past the Custom House, you'll see the brown, discolored bronze Famine Memorial (4). These gaunt people and one very bony-looking dog are a reminder of the horrible famine that wiped out a million Irish and forced millions more to emigrate in the 1840s. Each of these figures was modeled after a real person based on historical records of the time. Note the father carrying his dead child at the back, unable to let her go while the starving dog waits. Records show that all of these people made it safely to North America and found successful new lives in Canada. A similar memorial stands in Toronto depicting all of these same people, symbolizing the successful emigration of these and so many other Irish famine victims to Canada. On the ground around the statues, look for the names of donors who have helped support the Famine Commemoration Project, including Irish and American celebrities like Pierce Brosnan, Daniel Day Lewis, and Bill and Hillary Clinton.

Famine Memorial

The area east of the Custom House on both sides of the river is known as the Docklands. For centuries, this area was a busy port, importing and exporting goods from hundreds of ships every day. To aid in the loading and unloading of ships, a series of inner docks was built away from the crowds of other ships and the always-fluctuating tides of the main river. An entrance to one of these inner docks is at the big steel bridge near the Famine Memorial. This bridge is designed to swing open with very little energy thanks to the massive (and scary) counterweights hanging over the hinge of the bridge. Behind the bridge and the lock, ships could safely load and unload cargo in this little protected port.

The iron-and-glass building next to this inner dock is called the Custom House Quay (CHQ) Building. It was originally built to store alcohol and tobacco for import and export until all duties and taxes were properly paid. From the sidewalk, the entrances to the massive, arched underground vaults are still visible. Today, the main floor is a mostly empty retail space (with free public toilets) and often used for temporary markets and festivals.

In May 2016, EPIC Ireland opened in the underground vaults of the CHQ building. This interactive new museum is dedicated to the Irish diaspora—those of other nationalities descended from Irish emigrants. The museum is well placed so near the docks from which so many desperate people would have boarded ships to better prospects abroad. Look for exhibits about Grace Kelly, Che Guevara, Charles de Gaulle, and many other notables among the diaspora—as maybe you are yourself. This spendy commercial museum would be best suited for those with a specific interest in the Irish influence abroad (€16.00 adult; open 09:00–18:00 every day except Dec 24–26, tickets can be booked online in advance; epicirelandchq.com).

Continue to the next pedestrian bridge. On your way, you may notice the smashed shells of mussels and other shellfish caught by seabirds and cleverly dropped from great heights onto this cement walkway to access the sweet meat inside. Watch your head!

Named for one of Dublin's many famous writers, the Sean O'Casey Bridge (5) is another bouncing, bucking, wobbly-by-design footbridge. It was installed in 2005 as an attempt to connect the previously run-down north and south Docklands during the surging economic boom of the Celtic Tiger. Growth has slowed somewhat, but the Docklands are bouncing back as developers have once again taken an interest in this low-cost, high-potential part of Dublin.

The old sailing ship nearby is the Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (6), a replica of the kind of ship Irish emigrants would take to North America, open as a museum to visitors. Admission is not free, but a photo from the bridge certainly is (€9.00; schedule varies seasonally; www.jeaniejohnston.ie).

Farther downriver, see the white suspension strings of the unique Samuel Beckett Bridge (7). Ireland's national symbol of the harp inspired the design of this bridge, installed in 2009. The bridge rests on a huge ball-and-socket joint on the south side and the whole bridge can rotate 90 degrees inward (upriver) to allow tall ships to pass to and from Dublin Bay. The bridge was built in one piece and brought to Ireland on a barge. To install it, engineers had to wait for a day with an unusually high tide. As the tide rose, the ball of the bridge was positioned over the socket of the base. When the tide went out, the bridge slowly set itself into the socket, using only the powers of buoyancy and gravity.

Samuel Beckett Bridge

From the last two bridges, you can also see the tilted glass beaker of the Convention Centre Dublin and the distant cranes of the still-busy Dublin Port, now much farther east of City Centre. In the far distance, the twin smokestacks are those of the Poolbeg Power Station. These decommissioned chimneys are a classic Dublin landmark and are often used as establishing shots in films and television shows set in the city—including the cover of the first edition of this book. Near the Convention Centre, the Royal Canal meets the River Liffey at Spencer Dock. The canal was a commercial catastrophe and quickly went out of business, but it remains as a nice urban waterway for North Dublin neighborhoods. Read more about the Poolbeg chimneys and the Royal Canal in the Beyond City Centre chapter in this book.

For a nice craft pint after your walk, try the Brew Dock (8). To get there from the Famine Memorial, walk up Memorial Road behind the Custom House, continue north on Amiens Street just until you pass Busáras, the Bus Éireann hub. The Brew Dock is right across the street (and the Luas line) from the north side of Busáras (www.galwaybaybrewery.com/brewdock).

This walk can easily be connected with a walk through the Docklands just across the Samuel Beckett Bridge. To get back to City Centre, return to the riverside and walk back to O'Connell Bridge and the rest of the familiar streets of City Centre. I don't recommend wandering through the rough neighborhoods north or east of the Brew Dock and Busáras. From the south end of O'Connell Bridge, take the right fork (Westmoreland Street) to get back to College Green and Grafton Street.

Thanks go to Dublin historian and tour guide operator Pat Liddy for providing inspiration and some entertaining insight about the bridges and Docklands of Dublin.

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West Dublin

Getting to West Dublin

Smithfield

Old Jameson Distillery

St. Michan's Church and Crypt

The Cobblestone Pub

National Museum of Ireland: Decorative Arts and History

Arbour Hill Cemetery

Phoenix Park

Farmleigh House and Estate

War Memorial Gardens

Kilmainham Gaol

Richmond Barracks

Irish Museum of Modern Art

Guinness Storehouse

Teeling Whiskey Distillery

Returning to City Centre

West of Viking-Age Dublin are the historically blue-collar neighborhoods of the Liberties and Kilmainham south of the river and Smithfield north of the river. These areas are decidedly outside of touristy City Centre, and you'll see and feel the difference as you walk through the commercial and industrial buildings on the west side of town.

The sights out here are not as close together as those in City Centre, but that is no reason to avoid this historic and colorful part of the city. Many visitors come to Dublin just for the simple pleasure of visiting the Guinness Storehouse and the Old Jameson Distillery, both very popular and both on the west side, but there is much more to see. Kilmainham Gaol offers a poignant look at the turbulent history of Ireland in the 19th and 20th centuries, one of Europe's largest urban parks sprawls north and west of the river, a newly opened working whiskey distillery deserves your attention, and you can poke your head (or your body) into the centuries-old burial crypts of one of Dublin's oldest churches.

West Dublin has something to offer everyone, and is well worth at least a half-day, especially if you are already planning a visit to Guinness or Jameson for those souvenir caps, magnets, and T-shirts.

Getting to West Dublin

West Dublin is a bit of a walk from City Centre, but certainly within the reach of the dedicated tightwad traveler. The walk from Wood Quay (along the River Liffey behind Christ Church Cathedral) to Heuston Station is 1.1 miles (1.8 kilometers) each way; a little bit farther if walking to and from Temple Bar or O'Connell Street. If you are walking, follow the river to Heuston Station to avoid getting lost in one of the many dead ends and alleys in this part of town.

Dublin Bus has routes that service most West Dublin points of interest. For first-time tourists without mobile devices, I don't recommend city buses except for lines that terminate at your destination. From O'Connell Street near the Spire of Dublin, catch the 46a bus terminating at PHOENIX PARK or from Aston Quay (south side of the river just west of O'Connell Bridge) catch the 145 bus terminating at HEUSTON STATION. If you are using the Dublin Bus app on your device, use the route planner to find a bus, follow your progress, and get off at the correct stop.

Some of the hop on hop off bus tours make stops at important places in West Dublin. Dublin Bus Tours (green bus) stops at Guinness Storehouse, Irish Museum of Modern Art (Royal Hospital Kilmainham), Kilmainham Gaol, Heuston Station, Dublin Zoo (in Phoenix Park), National Museum of Decorative Arts & History (Collins Barracks), and Old Jameson Distillery. City Sightseeing (red bus) stops at Guinness Storehouse, Museum of Modern Art, Kilmainham Gaol, and National Museum of Decorative Arts & History (Collins Barracks). CityScape Sightseeing (the cheapest hop on hop off experience) visits Kilmainham Gaol, Heuston Station, Dublin Zoo, Collins Barracks Jameson, Guinness, and the Royal Hospital Kilmainham. If you are planning to use these buses for sightseeing already, use them to get out to West Dublin easily.

The Luas Red Line runs east-to-west two blocks north of the River Liffey in City Centre. Buy your return ticket and catch the westbound Luas from the ABBEY STREET (east of O'Connell Street) or JERVIS (west of O'Connell) stations. The SMITHFIELD stop is most convenient to the Old Jameson Distillery, the MUSEUM stop is most convenient to the Museum of Decorative Arts & History (Collins Barracks), the HEUSTON stop (Heuston Station) is nearest the Irish Museum of Modern Art (Royal Hospital Kilmainham) and Kilmainham Gaol, and the JAMES'S stop is nearest the Guinness Storehouse.

There are Dublin Bikes kiosks at Collins Barracks and Heuston Station. If you are already a 3-day ticketholder, pick up a bike in City Centre and head west on the westbound one-way quays on the south side of the River Liffey. Heuston Station will be the most convenient kiosk. The traffic pattern gets very messy at the station as the Luas line crosses the Liffey and cars exit a busy highway to get into the city. Bike with caution.

To get back to City Centre, you'll have to take the one-way eastbound quays on the north side of the river. Cross at the Frank Sherwin Bridge near Heuston Station or, better yet, pick up the bike from Collins Barracks.

Smithfield

Just west of City Centre is the old village of Smithfield. This little town was and is still famous (or infamous) for its large square and open-air market. The large Smithfield Plaza (1) is still home to a twice-yearly horse market on the first Sunday of March and September. Markets used to be more frequent, but a very Wild West incident involving a horse thief and bullets flying over crowds forced city authorities to rein them in a little bit.

Old Jameson Distillery

For almost 200 years, Dublin's famous whiskey was distilled right here in Smithfield at the Old Jameson Distillery (2). Jameson moved all distilling operations to larger and less expensive quarters in 1971, and this facility was set up as an informative museum to whiskey making and all things Jameson. The old distillery welcomed more than 284,000 visitors in 2014, and attendance continues to grow. With so many guests in and out the door every day, they know their business, and the tour is very beginner friendly. Tours run regularly in multiple languages, thoroughly describe the whiskey process and the history of uisce beatha in Ireland, and end with a comparison taster of Jameson with a scotch and a bourbon. This side-by-side tasting helps the whiskey newbie identify the characteristics of Irish whiskey directly with the vastly different tastes of scotch (smoke and dirt) and American bourbon (corn and vanilla). When I visited, I noticed many of the guests couldn't finish their Scotch sample after tasting it against the smooth Irish blend.

A Jameson barrel

Hardcore, experienced malt-heads might find the entry-level demonstration and the tasting of three vastly different whiskies a bit touristy, but for the Irish whiskey curious and those looking to snag a recognizable souvenir, the Old Jameson Distillery is a good pick.

The tour includes a serving of Jameson or a cocktail at the bar and restaurant after the three-whiskey sampler, making this tour a good value for the price. Some upgrades with special tastings must be booked in advance, others can be scheduled on the day of your visit. If you plan to visit, be sure to shrink the admission price further by booking online in advance (€15.00, €13.50 if booked online; open daily at 09:00, last tour at 17:15, Sun open at 10:00, but no alcohol sales allowed until after 12:30; www.jamesonwhiskey.com). For more about Irish whiskey, see Dublin in Detail: Irish Whiskey Tourism.

Dublin in Detail: Irish Whiskey Tourism

Whiskey tourism is one of the fastest-growing segments of the modern Irish tourist industry, and Dublin has no shortage of whiskey experiences for the curious and experienced alike.

_Irish whiskey has been around for centuries, since monks first began to practice distillation techniques—learned by observing Middle-East perfumers distilling flower and fruit essences—on beer. Before long, demand for_ uisce beatha, _or "water of life," grew around Ireland and Europe. For a few centuries, Ireland had the market cornered until distillers in Scotland and England began applying advancing technology and blending to produce their product more quickly and cheaply._

For most of the twentieth century, Irish whiskey was in the doldrums, hurt by waning international interest and American prohibition, but things have been picking up in the last few decades. Enthusiasm, and shipping orders, are up worldwide, and the big international exporters like Jameson and Bushmills are cranking out more than ever before. Even more exciting, small brands, once closed or sold to the big boys, are buying back their labels and re-opening their small distilleries in towns and villages around the country. In the next few years, Ireland may have as many as twenty working distilleries making the good stuff and opening their doors for whiskey enthusiasts.

_In Dublin, the three big choices for whiskey tourism are theTeeling Whiskey Distillery,_ _Old Jameson Distillery , and the_ _Irish Whiskey Museum. Each of these three has something different to offer. Jameson is the industry standard; the beginner-friendly tour of what used to be a massive distilling complex, now closed and moved out of town. At Jameson, whiskey newbies get a look and an explanation of the whiskey process with replicas of the grain room, the mills (with the chance to touch one of their old working millstones for luck), and the rest of the equipment used to produce their large volume. The end tasting pits Jameson against two contrasting styles—usually Scotch and Bourbon—to highlight the smooth, light character of an Irish whiskey._

Teeling is a newly reopened distillery in Dublin's Liberties neighborhood—formerly home to many small brewers and distillers. Most of the alcohol production in the Liberties halted after a massive whiskey fire in 1875. High-test whiskey aging in barrels can be highly flammable, and the nearby streets ran with rivers of fire as more and more barrels burst in their storehouses. A number of neighborhood residents died, not from fire, but from disease after scooping up and drinking the free whiskey running through the sewage-filled Victorian streets.

Teeling offers visitors a look at a modern, high-tech whiskey facility—a perfect contrast to the pastoral museum that is Jameson. The malting, mashing, fermenting, and distilling process is again explained in a beginner-friendly way, with visitors getting a chance to smell and taste the product at each stage of production. The only replica at Teeling is the barrel room, as whiskey is now aged in special warehouses outside of town for safety reasons that should be obvious. The standard Teeling tasting lets visitors sample three different Teeling products to discern their different characters. This much more subtle tasting comparison is still approachable for beginners, but won't be as face-punchingly obvious as that in Jameson. The different tasting options at different price points is also very appealing to those who might not be ready for 60 mL of whiskey neat.

The Irish Whiskey Museum, another new attraction, isn't so much a look-at-exhibits-yourself museum as it is a guided, narrated tour through a sequence of audio/visual exhibits. More emphasis is put on the history of Irish whiskey in general: its monastic origins; its outlaw past; its surge, decline, and recent revival. The tour finishes, predictably, with a guided sampling of different Irish whiskies, depending on the tour package purchased. The price of the IWM tour is competitive with the other attractions in Dublin, and its handy location in College Green makes it popular for day-trippers.

Beyond Dublin, the largest and most popular whiskey destinations are Bushmills in Northern Ireland and the large, multi-label complex in Midleton, Co. Cork. These large distilleries stayed in business during the twentieth-century decline, and are surging again thanks to renewed interest. Midleton now produces Jameson, Paddy, and several other big and small labels, and the Jameson experience there is more expansive than that in the Old Distillery in Dublin. If you are traveling around the country, consider a visit to one of these modern macro distilleries.

St. Michan's Church and Crypt

St. Michan's (3) is one of several churches on aptly named Church Street, but it is the only one to offer public tours of its underground crypts. The centuries-old graveyard and main sanctuary of the church itself is worth a free visit, but you must decide for yourself if you want to make a donation to see the coffins and mummified remains in the crypts beneath the church.

There are two crypt entrances in the foundation of the church. Both are only accessible by guided tour. The larger of the two crypts is technically still in use, as the wealthy aristocratic families who paid for its construction are still around today. The inactive chambers can be lit, but the active ones must stay dark.

In the smaller crypt, you can get a close-up view of four well-preserved human remains. The dry air and cool temperatures (and naturally seeping methane gas!) have naturally preserved these remains with hair, nails, and skin mostly intact. A death mask of Irish Republican hero Wolfe Tone (see Dublin's Urban Park Scramble) and his execution order are also on display (Crypt Tour: €5.00, Church Sanctuary: Donation; Mon–Fri 10:00–12:45 and 14:00–16:45, Sat 10:00–12:45).

The Cobblestone Pub

The Cobblestone (4) at the north end of Smithfield Plaza is one of the best real traditional music (locally known as "trad," rhymes with "mad") pubs in the city, better than any of the Temple Bar super pubs. Every night, a group of musicians occupies not a stage, but a regular bar booth to play traditional favorites without the assistance of a sound system. The crowd is local and the prices are much lower than those across the river. Note that the Cobblestone is only open in the evening, so if you need trad at lunchtime, head to Temple Bar (Daily 16:00–23:30; www.cobblestonepub.ie).

National Museum of Ireland: Decorative Arts & History (Collins Barracks)

Collins Barracks is an impressive and venerable old military base with an interesting history of its own. As the name suggests, it was built as a housing and training facility for the British army. In 1997, it was opened as the Museum of Decorative Arts & History (5). The Decorative Arts and History museums could probably each fill a normal-sized museum, but this facility is so big that even these two can't fill every room. The military and decorative wings of the barracks and the Asgard exhibit are all free.

Near the Luas Red Line MUSEUM stop at the gate, you can look down from the parking lot into Croppies' Acre. This small park (currently closed) is a memorial for the "Croppy Boys" who shaved (cropped) their hair in solidarity with the French revolutionaries during the unsuccessful Irish Rising of 1798, inspired by revolutions in France and America. Most were captured, executed, and dumped into the Liffey here at Collins Barracks. Future plans for the memorial and its reopening are murky.

The Decorative Arts exhibits are mostly displayed on the upper floors. See the displays of unusual furniture designs, fully reconstructed living rooms from different historical periods, ornamental silver, and an interesting collection of coins and medals used in Ireland.

The History wing of the museum could probably be called Military History. Much of Ireland's recent history has been told with armed conflict, and this wing focuses on Irish military and arms. One large permanent exhibit is dedicated to the 1916 Easter Rising. Don't miss the personal guns of freedom fighters like Patrick Pearse, Michael Collins, and Countess Markievicz. The rest of the military wing displays uniforms, weapons, and equipment used by Irish fighters in the various conflicts of the last thousand years.

On your way into or out of the museum, don't miss the Asgard, a gun-running yacht restored and rebuilt in the old gymnasium building just west of the main museum entrance. This and other pleasure boats riskily smuggled German guns into Ireland after World War I. These outdated guns were the only choice for the Irish rebels after the 1916 Easter Rising. The visit to the Asgard exhibit is quick and worth a look. (Free; Tue–Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun 14:00–17:00, closed Mondays, Christmas Day, and Good Friday; www.museum.ie).

Between the main barracks entrance and the Asgard exhibit, visit the temporary "Proclaiming a Republic" exhibit in the Riding School building. Curators of the National Museum have on display more than 300 pieces from their 1916 collection, including photographs, uniforms, and personal effects of those involved in the Easter Rising. This exhibit opened for the Rising Centenary celebrations and will be on display through 2017 (http://www.museum.ie/Decorative-Arts-History/Exhibitions/Current-Exhibitions/Proclaiming-a-Republic-The-1916-Rising).

Arbour Hill Cemetery

Just behind the Collins Barracks complex, there is a memorial very important in the hearts of the Irish people. Arbour Hill Cemetery (6) is part of an old military prison system, and under the old prison yard, fourteen national heroes are interred.

After the 1916 Easter Rising, British forces arrested, court-martialed, and executed sixteen rebel leaders, fourteen in nearby Kilmainham Gaol (see below). The bodies were quickly buried in a single grave under the Arbour Hill prison yard and covered with quicklime to prevent them from being exhumed and reburied as martyrs. The British plan was only party successful. The bodies were not moved, but the quick and brutal executions turned the tide of public opinion in favor of the rebel cause, ultimately resulting in Irish independence. The execution of James Connolly was particularly insulting to local sensibilities. Due to injuries suffered during his capture, he was unable to stand for the firing squad, so he was tied to a chair and shot while sitting down. Somehow, this was seen as a step too far—to execute a traitor was one thing, but to shoot him sitting down was barbaric!

Arbour Hill Cemetery Memorial

In 1963, a memorial terrace was built on the gravesite of the fourteen executed Rising leaders. The construction of the memorial was completed just in time for the legendary visit of Unites States President John F. Kennedy, who laid a ceremonial wreath here. Their names are inscribed in Irish and English, and you may recognize some of the names if you've been around Dublin for a few days (particularly Heuston, Pearse, and Connolly). On a limestone wall at the back of the memorial, the entire text of the Irish Proclamation (their Declaration of Independence) is carved in both Irish and English (Free; Mon–Fri 08:00, Sat–Sun 10:00, closes at dusk;  www.heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/arbourhillcemetery).

Phoenix Park

Phoenix Park is the largest enclosed park in Europe, with no shortage of things to do if you have lots of time. From the Main Entrance on Parkgate Street (7), you can rent a bicycle (not free) and head up the seemingly endless hill going northwest into the park.

At the top of the first hill, the unmistakable structure you'll see is the Wellington Monument, the large white obelisk. It is the second-largest obelisk in the world—second only to the Washington Monument in Washington, D.C. It is dedicated to the Duke of Wellington, a Dublin-born British military commander who beat Napoleon at Waterloo. The monument is somewhat controversial, as the Duke had strong anti-Republican and anti-Catholic views and made no secret of them.

You'll go by the Dublin Zoo (€16.80, online booking available; open daily at 09:30; www.dublinzoo.ie) as you continue on the main road into the park. Later, you'll see the back garden of Áras an Uachtaráin (take a deep breath now, AW-rahs on OOK-thar-awn), the residence of the President of Ireland (see below for visit information). This is near the central roundabout of the park.

From the central roundabout, you can go left to see the American Ambassador's Residence, given (almost) equal status to the house of the Irish President. Ireland and the United States have always had very close political and cultural relations, and this house was granted to the American ambassador shortly after the United States became one of the first countries to recognize and establish relations with the Republic of Ireland.

Head right at the roundabout and make a quick left to the Phoenix Park Visitor Centre at Ashtown Castle. Here you'll find exhibits about the park, a coffee shop, a kitchen garden, and the old hulk of a castle. Look at the hedge maze around the old tower house. This traces the original floor plan of a much larger castle, of which the small corner tower is all that remains. During the week, a number of guided walks begin at this and other Phoenix Park landmarks. Check the schedule of events on the website.

On Saturdays, free, first come first served tours of the Irish President's home are booked from the Visitor Centre. These one-hour guided tours are a nice introduction to the history of the park—this house was originally built in the eighteenth century for the head park ranger—and the modern history of the Irish state. On the tour, you'll see the expected highlights: the opulent dining room, entrance hall, and sitting room used by Irish Presidents to host foreign guests and conduct Presidential business, but my favorite stops on the tour are the President's Study (like the Oval Office with a messier, lived-in desk) and a look at the Irish Presidential car: a swanky 1949 Rolls Royce that was apparently a favorite of 1916 Rising leader-turned-politician Éamon de Valera (see Dublin in Detail: Kilmainham Gaol).

If you happen to be spending a Saturday in Phoenix Park, consider signing up for the tour. If you can't catch it on the weekend, head to the western edge of the park and take the free tour of another wealthy-estate-turned-government-guesthouse, Farmleigh. Of the two, I prefer Farmleigh for its more frequent and more comprehensive tours. After all, you can't visit every room in the President's house (Free; Saturdays only, schedule varies; www.president.ie).

If you have more time, you can visit the Papal Cross, built at the site of a sermon delivered by Pope John Paul II in 1979, and the Magazine Fort, a ruined 18th-century gunpowder storage facility (unsafe to enter). For one of Dublin City's most wild and woody corners, take a walk or a cycle through Furry Glen along the southern park boundary. My favorite traditional pub is the Hole in the Wall, literally just outside a tiny pedestrian gate in the otherwise solid stone wall (www.phoenixpark.ie).

Farmleigh House and Estate

Just outside the western border of Phoenix Park is the former Guinness family holiday home turned Irish state mansion, Farmleigh. The huge house and lavish surrounding gardens were the longtime weekend residence of several generations of Ireland's real first family. When the Guinness clan moved to even fancier digs in England, they offered to gift the whole estate to the Irish government, who politely turned them down. Years later, the same government would buy the complex for €29 million. In the words of one local, it was "a very Irish deal, indeed!"

Today, the house and gardens are used for official state and diplomatic functions. President Barack Obama was famously photographed playing Ireland's national sport of hurling with Irish Prime Minister Enda Kenny on the front lawn.

When not hosting state functions, the house and grounds are free and open to the public. If you can get there, a walk around the gardens and a guided tour of the lavish house are worth the time. House tours run through the day on a first-come, first-served basis. Inside, you'll see the elegant dining room and the official state china (all made locally, including glasses by Waterford Crystal), the grand entryway and staircase built to match the one in the Guinness family's workaday home on St. Stephen's Green, the oak-paneled study with a book-activated secret door leading into a secure underground panic room, and an iron-and-glass greenhouse with the old-timey name, "conservatory"—like the potential murder scene in Clue. When you arrive, immediately pick up your ticket for the next forty-five-minute tour and take a stroll through the gardens while you wait.

Outside, take a look at the Dutch sunken garden (like those at the War Memorial Gardens, see below), get lost in the Victorian walled garden, and walk through the magnolias to a short loop trail around the small lake. Enjoy a coffee at the lakeside boathouse or your pre-packed picnic lunch on one of the many benches throughout the estate until the house tour begins.

Entrance to the estate is from Phoenix Park, at the White's Road Gate. The easiest way to get there is by Dublin Bus: catch the 37 bus on Aston Quay (near the south side of O'Connell Bridge, terminating at Blanchardstown Centre) and get off at Castleknock Rd (Park Gate). Enter the park and take a right on the pedestrian path, then another right at White's Road to the Farmleigh entrance (Free; gardens and estate open daily 10:00–18:00, house tours operate less frequently in the offseason—check website for current schedule and for occasional closures for state functions; www.farmleigh.ie).

War Memorial Gardens

Just across the River Liffey from Phoenix Park you'll find the well-manicured Irish National War Memorial Gardens (8). This contemplative park honors the Irish soldiers who fought and died in World War I between 1914 and 1918. The Republic of Ireland was technically neutral in WWII, but nearly 50,000 Irish soldiers died serving in various campaigns in the First World War. Walking paths cross through the trees and temples to the park's iconic sunken rose gardens. Each of these two circular gardens descends into a central lily pond, and the two circles mirror each other across a walled central lawn. Picnic space is available near the banks of the river, which is much smaller here beyond the tidal zone. The entrance to the Gardens is from South Circular Road west of Heuston Station (Free; Mon–Fri 08:00, Sat–Sun 10:00, closes at dusk; PDF map and brochure  www.phoenixpark.ie/media/Irish%20War%20Memorial%20Gardens.pdf).

Kilmainham Gaol

Kilmainham Gaol (9) (pronounced "JAIL") is one of my highest-recommended Dublin attractions, even though it isn't free. This huge stone fortress was opened in the late 18th century and operated until the mid-20th century. During its operation, it locked up debtors, thieves, famine-starved children, Irish revolutionaries, and the famous men executed after the 1916 Easter Rising. You can see their memorial just across the street from the main entrance and visit their graves in Arbour Hill Cemetery.

Dublin in Detail: Kilmainham Gaol

_This must-see Dublin landmark is the best way for a foreign tourist to get a primer on the complex birth of modern Ireland. It is operated by Ireland's national monument service OPW, which means it is run tastefully and efficiently, and is well worth the small admission fee and the trip out to the edge of town._

When the oldest part of the gaol was built, the Kilmainham area was well beyond the city, the perfect place for what was then considered a major step forward for incarceration. In the oldest parts of the gaol men, women, and children shared overcrowded cells and sometimes slept on the cold stone floors when beds ran short. Public hangings were once conducted above the front entrance. Much later, the East Wing was added, and Kilmainham Gaol was again seen as a revolution in prison systems. Each prisoner had his or her own cell, and silence was strictly enforced by guards in the central chamber.

At the end of the Easter Rising week in April 1916, the rebel commanders and signatories to the Irish Proclamation of Independence surrendered to British authorities and were quickly court martialed in Richmond Barracks. From May 3–May 12, fourteen Rising leaders were given the blindfold and cigarette and stood before the firing squad here in the prison yard. James Connolly, injured during his capture, was unable to stand and was tied to a chair for his execution. The brutality and swiftness of the executions—particularly the indignity of Connolly's—helped sway public opinion to the side of the rebels, who were seen by a significant proportion of the Irish population as troublemakers and terrorists.

Many Irish rebels were held and executed in the prison—not just the most famous leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising. Troublemakers in the rebellions of 1798, 1848, and even anti-treaty fighters in the post-independence Irish Civil War were held captive in the cold stone and steel of Kilmainham. Among the last "residents" of the gaol was Éamon de Valera, the 1916 Rising leader who escaped the firing squad by virtue of his American citizenship and later became the President of Ireland.

_The iconic East Wing has been used for a number of film and television productions, most famously 1969's_ The Italian Job _and the music video for U2's "A Celebration."_

Today, the gaol is only accessible by guided tour. The one-hour tour visits the courthouse, chapel, several cell blocks, and the prison yard—site of the 1916 executions. The tour guides describe the living conditions in the prison at various times of its operation and point out cells that held historically significant prisoners in the old, dungeon-like hallways and the wrought-iron masterpiece of the East Wing.

After the tour, spend some time perusing the well-presented museum exhibits. Don't miss the displays of letters and personal possessions of the victims of the 1916 executions, the propaganda posters used to recruit rebels, exhibits dedicated to the many women involved in the struggle for independence, and an original copy of the Irish Proclamation read at the steps of the General Post Office at the outset of the Rising. Maybe the saddest piece in the collection is the letter written by eighteen-year-old James Fisher to his mother on the night before his execution during the Irish Civil War. He was arrested, tried, and swiftly executed for possession of an unlicensed revolver—at the time a capital offense—and his heart-wrenching words are clearly those of a child trying to sound brave but not succeeding.

Kilmainham Gaol East Wing

Kilmainham Gaol recently completed a major renovation, restoration, and expansion project to commemorate the 1916 Centenary, and will be busier than ever. Book your tickets online well in advance to make sure you get a tour and avoid a long line for the limited walk-up tickets (€7.00 if booked online, €8.00 at the door; open daily except Dec 24–26; http://kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie/).

Irish Museum of Modern Art (Royal Hospital Kilmainham)

This large complex was originally laid out and built as a retirement home for 17th-century British soldiers. It was modeled after L'Hôtel des Invalides in Paris. If entering from the west at the intersection of Inchicore Road and South Circular Road, take a look at the large, ornate gate. This gate originally stood in City Centre on the River Liffey, but was moved in the 19th century to ease the traffic bottleneck it caused. The architect cleverly carved his own coat of arms into the gate and covered it with a piece of wood painted to match the stone. He hoped to play a little joke on future generations when the wood rotted to reveal his own insignia. His joke worked, but not quite as he had planned. The wood cover and coat of arms were found when the arch was moved here to Kilmainham, long before it rotted naturally.

Farther in from the gate, take a look at the two cemeteries. These were set aside as burial plots for the British soldiers living out their retirements at the Hospital, but this area had been a burial ground for more than a thousand years. One of the largest Viking burials outside of Scandinavia was found right here near what is now called "Bully's Acre."

At the end of the long lane, the Royal Hospital now houses the Irish Museum of Modern Art (10). If modern art is your thing, the museum is free. If modern art doesn't interest you, at least go in to see the inner courtyard.

On the north side of the building, be sure to get a look at the beautiful Royal Hospital Gardens. In keeping with the French influence, these gardens were built in the style of the gardens of the Palace of Versailles. Today, it is a public park with crushed gravel paths through perfectly trimmed bushes, park benches, and an abstract sculpture fountain (Free; Tue–Fri 11:30–17:30, Sat 10:00–17:30, Sun 12:00–17:30; www.imma.ie).

**Richmond Barracks**

The fallout of the Easter Rising didn't all happen at Kilmainham Gaol. In the nearby neighborhood of Inchicore, over 3,000 rebels—men and women—were held at Richmond Barracks, a British military base being used at the time as a training center for Irish-born soldiers shipping off to fight in World War I. In the crowded barracks, the Rising leaders—including the 14 later executed at Kilmainham—were separated from rank-and-file rebels, court-martialed, and sentenced on the spot. From Richmond Barracks, they were marched through the streets to Kilmainham Gaol, where crowds of angry locals jeered and spit at them—the Rising wasn't initially popular, as more civilians were killed in the fighting than Irish rebels and British soldiers combined.

The barracks sat long unused and crumbling until community interest and funding came through during the push for the 1916 Centenary celebrations. In June 2016, it will open to the public as a meaningful museum remembering its days as a British base of operations, an impromptu processing center for the men and women of the Rising, its handover from the British to the Irish armies after independence, and its final chapter as government tenement housing and a Christian Brothers school.

The tour will include the 1916 exhibit in the gymnasium, where those arrested after the Rising were processed and sentenced; a re-creation of one of the classrooms from its time as a school (with a fine collection of original furniture found in storerooms and donated by families); and an example of the living quarters for the soldiers—and later, the families—who called the barracks home.

Those who go for the guided tour (recommended) rather than the self-guided tour will take a guided walk through Goldenbridge Cemetery nearby. This is one of Dublin's oldest accessible-to-all cemeteries; built independently of a church, it was a practical solution to the sticky issue of burying Catholics in Protestant-controlled Ireland. Thanks to an extensive renovation alongside that of Richmond Barracks, many of the vandalized and weatherworn markers have been restored.

If time and budget allow, a tour of Richmond Barracks would pair well with a visit to Kilmainham Gaol; you could literally follow in the footsteps of the executed Rising leaders from the Barracks to the old Garrison Church—still a functioning Catholic church—to Kilmainham Gaol and then across the river to their burial site in Arbour Hill Cemetery. Look for more developments in future updates of this book and on their website (Guided tour €8.00 adult; opening June 2016; www.richmondbarracks.ie).

Guinness Storehouse

The Guinness Storehouse (11) is a Dublin staple—many people come to Ireland simply to visit this holy land of beer. It must be noted right away that the Guinness Storehouse is not the Guinness Brewery. The brewery is still in operation at the St. James's Gate complex, and you can still smell the stuff from anywhere on the west side of Dublin, but the Storehouse is no longer part of the Guinness production process.

To walk there from City Centre, head straight west from Christ Church Cathedral on Christchurch Place, which turns into High Street, then Cornmarket, then Thomas Street, but maintains a more or less straight line. You'll see the Guinness Storehouse signs directing you down Crane Street and around the corner—past the iconic and selfie-worthy black gates—to the entrance.

The Storehouse is now set up as a seven-story museum to all things Guinness. The main atrium is in the shape of a pint glass that could hold 14.3 million liquid pints. In the floor of the atrium, the original 9,000-year lease signed in 1759 by Arthur Guinness is on display. It is still legible and is in rather better condition than the American Declaration of Independence, which it predates by more than a decade. (The lease is no longer valid; Guinness has since purchased the land listed on the lease and much more around it to accommodate the brewery today.)

Guinness gates

The self-guided tour continues up through this "World's Largest Pint Glass" through five floors of interactive exhibits. I enjoyed the new Taste Experience, a bright white room with four vaporizers, each one isolating a distinct flavor found in the finished product. After smelling and tasting the scented water vapor, everyone gets a sample mini-pint (with a guided tasting) to see if they can pick out each character. Also, spend some time looking through the well-presented advertising archives, chronicling Guinness' long history of print and television advertising. Photo booths let you insert yourself into a classic ad and share it on social media from a nearby tablet computer kiosk.

At the top of the museum, the always-crowded Gravity Bar offers a 360 degree view of Dublin, and many visitors spend their drink ticket here. I recommend getting a nice view from the top floor before bringing your ticket back down to Arthur's Bar on level 5. The views are almost as good as those on the gravity bar, the selection beers is better (you can try one of the Guinness variants like Foreign Extra), and the crowds are likely to be much lighter.

The admission price is not cheap, but it does include a free pint of Guinness, worth between 5 and 6 euros in City Centre. Maximize the value of your admission price by looking for special mini tastings and daily events, ask questions of the storytellers stationed throughout the complex, and take your time with the exhibits—particularly the advertising archives. Save some money and skip a long line by booking in advance online (€20.00, €18.00 if booked online; daily 09:30–17:00, Jul–Aug 09:30–19:00; www.guinness-storehouse.com).

Teeling Whiskey Distillery

Dublin's newest alcohol-themed attraction is putting the historic, industrial Liberties neighborhood back on the tourist map. The Teeling Whiskey Distillery (12), unlike the Guinness and Jameson properties, is a working distillery; you will see, smell, and taste the process of whiskey making in its natural habitat, and are likely to see the distillers hard at work with the shiny, state-of-the-art equipment. Teeling makes small batches of craft whiskey, so the operation is compact—confined to one spacious mashing, fermenting, and distilling floor. The only step in the whiskey process not seen on site is barrel maturation, but the barrel-aging step is thoroughly explained by the knowledgeable guide.

What sets this hour-long tour and tasting apart from many other tours is the opportunity to engage with the whiskey at each step in the process: smelling and tasting both un-malted and malted grain, the fermented wash before distillation, young whiskey at various points in the barrel-aging process, and, of course, a sampling of the finished product at the end. This continuous smelling and tasting allows the whiskey novice—like me—to follow the essence of the grain from seed to spirit, and really prepares the visitor well for the tasting at the end.

With the budget traveler (and the whiskey newbie) in mind, Teeling offers different tasting packages, all of which come with the same distillery tour: the €14.00 ticket includes one whiskey sample and one cocktail; the €20.00 package includes a 20 mL sample of Teeling's three basic whiskies, and is the best value in my opinion; the €30.00 offering for experienced whiskey fans includes a tasting of three fine single malts, the highlight of which is a luxurious 21-year-old. Its proximity to City Centre, its selection of package prices, and its informative tour of a working facility make the Teeling tour one of my new favorites in Dublin.

Teeling entrance at Newmarket

The Liberties area is a regular spider web of narrow lanes and side streets. It's a charming neighborhood, but difficult to navigate. Before leaving City Centre, make sure you have a detailed print or mobile device map in hand. For a scenic and interesting walk to Teeling from City Centre, head a few blocks west from Christ Church, go south on Francis Street to its end and turn right on Dean Street. Take the first left on St. Luke's Avenue, then the first left again down Brabazon Street to Newmarket. Again, check it on your map before jumping in, or simply take the Green Bus hop on hop off tour to the new stop right at the door (Daily 9:30–17:00, tours can be booked online or at the door; www.teelingwhiskey.com). For more about Irish whiskey, see Dublin in Detail: Irish Whiskey Tourism.

Returning to City Centre

If you are walking back to City Centre from any of these western attractions, I recommend sticking to the river as much as possible unless you have a detailed map. From Teeling—deep in the Liberties—either follow my directions from City Centre in reverse, plan your visit to nearby St. Patrick's Cathedral, or head south on New Street towards the Grand Canal and a beautiful, if longer, walk back to City Centre.

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The Docklands

On the quayside

Grand Canal Docks

Returning to City Centre

Dublin was originally established not for its Guinness and Irish dancing shows, but for the sheltered mouth of the River Liffey allowing easy access to the Irish Sea and the rest of the world. Since Viking times more than a thousand years ago, an active port has stimulated the local economy. Its faces have changed, and it has moved farther and farther east as the years have gone by, but Dublin's port continues to thrive and drive local trade. On a nice day, you can sit and watch dozens of ferries, freighters, and cruise ships chugging through the bustling harbor.

The story and shape of the Docklands has been driven by commerce and trade; the very face of Dublin's City Centre was designed to best accommodate maritime shipping. The earliest settlements and shipping centers were built where the River Poddle met the Liffey, where Dublin Castle now stands. The Poddle still flows underground, and empties into the Liffey through a large drain on the south walls just upstream of the Millennium Bridge. Since then, it has moved from the area that is now Temple Bar—the word bar originally referred to a docking rail for the loading and unloading of cargo ships—and further east to its current home beyond the East Link bridge.

Today, the Docklands are mostly defined as the area east of the Custom House on both sides of the River Liffey. There are points of interest on both sides of the river, but most of the significant sights are on the southern side in and around Grand Canal Docks. This area had been the victim of decades of neglect—the Celtic Tiger and subsequent crash are the cause of some of the unfinished buildings there now—but much of it is now being redeveloped and improved. A tourist with fresh legs can easily enjoy a quick look at some of the important points of interest in the south Docklands after my Riverside Walk.

On the quayside

If you follow the Riverside Walk all the way to the Samuel Beckett Bridge (the white suspension bridge designed after the Irish harp), simply cross the bridge and head for the massive hunk of bright orange riveted iron. This is the newly restored Diving Bell, a 19th-century innovation that allowed workers to build and maintain many of the deep-water walls of the river. The bell would be sunk to the bottom of the workspace and pumped with fresh air. Workers would descend the long tube to work on the walls for hours at a time. The work area at the bottom of the bell is free and open every day for tourists to peruse the exhibits and imagine the crush of twenty feet of river water pushing down on their heads. The bell was engineered by Bindon Blood Stoney—his real name—who has a small street named after him two blocks east of the bell.

The Diving Bell

From outside of the bell, look up and down the riverside walls. You'll notice the old rails of a small fleet of cranes used to load and unload ships along this wall—the cranes themselves have all been sold off. Several buildings above and below the diving bell are restored or repurposed warehouses used in the days before cargo ships were too large to navigate this far up the river.

Grand Canal Docks

From the bell, turn towards the sea (east) and take the first right heading away from the river (south), Forbes Street. After a block, this will open up to Grand Canal Docks. These docks—like George's Dock on the north side near the Custom House—were built to accommodate seagoing cargo ships, but the development of larger and larger cargo ships quickly made them too small and obsolete. Today, many international corporations have built shiny new headquarters here—most notably Google, who gave the area its unofficial new nicknames, "Google Docks" and "Silicon Docks"—and the area is in a resurgence. Pubs and restaurants now overlook this mostly unused harbor.

But things weren't always so sunny here; looking to the right from the bottom of Forbes Street you'll see Misery Hill. This unfortunate street name possibly dates back to the 13th century, when this was the site of a leper colony outside the city walls. Lazer Lane (which you passed on Forbes Street) lends some credence to this; it is possibly a mangled modern English iteration of "Leper Lane."

From the corner of Forbes Street, you can turn east down Hanover Quay to see the famous rehearsal space owned by the band U2, the long brick row of buildings on the waterside. This street is also home to the famous Graffiti Wall, where fans left love letters to their favorite band on the buildings opposite the rehearsal space.* The band also recorded several influential albums at Windmill Lane Studios in this neighborhood, but sadly the studio space is long gone. You can see some of the recording equipment "rescued" from Windmill Lane before it was torn down in the Irish Rock 'N' Roll Museum in Temple Bar.

*The area around the Graffiti Wall is currently undergoing some construction, and it is unknown if the graffiti will be preserved in the development of the block behind it.

If you care to, you can proceed all the way down Hanover Quay to the lock gate separating this dock from the River Liffey itself, getting an up-close-and-personal look at the meeting place of this man-made canal with the River Liffey and the smaller River Dodder (the Dodder also flows through Ballsbridge on its way to the Docklands). The old rusty hulk scuttled on the drydock used to be the ferry boat to the famous Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland.

Back at the corner of Forbes Street, you'll be looking at Grand Canal Square, a fine place to sit and watch the locals go by. There may be street buskers, but if not, you can watch the waterskiers and wakeboarders on the zipline watercourse. This dock marks the eastern end of Ireland's Grand Canal, a man-made waterway connecting the Irish Sea in the east with the River Shannon—and eventually the Atlantic coast—in the west. This dock would once have been bustling with cargo barges loading and unloading their hauls.

The tall commercial and residential towers here are a sign of the new, high-tech character of this neighborhood. Looking south from the bridge, near the DART line, the large, dark, shiny building is part of the Google complex. Some visitors get their pictures at the front entrance by crossing the bridge and turning right on Barrow Street.

Returning to City Centre

The bridge crossing the dock is Pearse Street/Ringsend Road. To get back to City Centre, turn west at the bridge and follow Pearse Street all the way to Trinity College (1 mile, 1.6 km). The nearest DART station is GRAND CANAL DOCKS on Barrow Street near the Google building. You can also follow the canal—it is behind a row of buildings for about a block—to the start point of my own Grand Canal Walk.

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Part 3

Outside City Centre
Northside Extended

Croke Park and GAA Museum

Royal Canal Walk

National Botanic Gardens

Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum

Experience Gaelic Games

Luckily, Dublin's historic and tourist-friendly City Centre is compact and easy to navigate on foot. Temple Bar, Viking Dublin, the Grafton area, O'Connell Street, and the Georgian parks are all within an action-packed square mile. Just as luckily, the heavy hitters west of City Centre like Phoenix Park and Kilmainham Gaol are close to the River Liffey and easy to find.

For the traveler with a little bit more time or specific interests, adventure awaits beyond the crowds around the Molly Malone statue. Outer Dublin is where locals live, and here you will find vibrant neighborhoods with friendly people, impressive historical points of interest, the heart of Gaelic sports, and some fantastic walks.

Whenever you are stepping beyond the bounds of tourist signs and costumed characters, travel smart. Make sure to have a good map (or offline-available map on a mobile device) and plan your route before leaving City Centre.

A note about safety: most of the neighborhoods we'll explore here are safe and secure during the day, but as in any city, try not to explore too far beyond your comfort zone at night. Teenage drinkers, pickpockets, and hardened junkies do sometimes bother lost tourists at night away from the bright lights and police presence of City Centre.

Croke Park and GAA Museum

From the Garden of Remembrance (see City Centre North), take Denmark Street Greater to the northeast. This will become Gardiner Place, Mountjoy Square North, and Fitzgibbon Street as you approach North Circular Road. At North Circular, take Russell Street across the Royal Canal to the holy land of Gaelic sports, Croke Park (1). "Croker" as it's called by Irish fans is the central headquarters of the Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) and all of its premier contests.

Dublin in Detail: Croke Park and Gaelic Sports

_Hurling and Gaelic football date back to ancient times among the Irish Gaels, and they are always the biggest athletic events in Ireland—bigger than soccer and rugby. Hurling and Camogie (women's hurling) is played something like field hockey or lacrosse. Players use ash sticks and their hands to propel a small ball around the field. Players can score a three-point goal by putting the ball in a soccer-sized net guarded by a goalkeeper or score one point by sailing the ball between two goal posts that extend up from the lower goal. Because teams have multiple ways to score, these games are fast paced and high scoring. Hurling is officially the fastest team field sport in the world. Gaelic football is played like a mix of soccer and basketball. Players can carry the soccer-sized ball for a limited number of steps before they must bounce it on their foot or the ground. Scoring is just like that in hurling. For more about how you can get a hands-on experience with the games, seeExperience Gaelic Games below._

Part of the lore and legend of Croke Park is the violence of Bloody Sunday in 1920, at the height of the Irish Revolution. The night before, Irish rebel leader Michael Collins ordered the assassination of fourteen British intelligence operatives. In retaliation, British forces marched into the stadium in the middle of a Gaelic football match and opened fire into the players and the stands. Fourteen Irish civilians, including one player, were killed and dozens more were injured. The standing-only terrace seating area in the stadium is nicknamed "Hill 16" in honor of everyone who died throughout the Irish War of Independence from 1916–1921.

The playing of British or other international sports in Croker is still met with resistance by a vocal minority who still haven't forgiven this British invasion on the sacred Gaelic sports. In 2007, when Dublin's other large stadium was under renovation, Ireland was slated to host England in an international rugby match. The game was controversially moved to Croke Park, and many feared violent actions by anti-English protesters. Thankfully, the match was played peacefully (Ireland securing a convincing 43–13 victory), and the moment when "God Save the Queen" was played to a polite and peaceful audience is still considered a major step in the Anglo-Irish peace process.

The stadium, like other sports venues of its age, sits right in the middle of a residential neighborhood—think Boston's Fenway Park or Chicago's Wrigley Field. This causes complications and friction as it hosts more and more non-sporting events. This was bought to the fore in 2014, when American country singer Garth Brooks was scheduled to perform five sold-out gigs at the stadium. Earlier in the year, boyband sensations One Direction had played three concerts there—maxing out the yearly allowance for special events in this residential venue. After much hand-wringing, Dublin City Council issued licenses for only three of the five shows, and Garth cancelled all five as a result. More than 400,000 tickets had to be refunded, enough for approximately 11% of the population of Ireland at the time to have seen "Thunder Rolls" performed by an aging American wannabe cowboy in a black hat.

Check the Croke Park schedule before coming to Dublin. If there is a game with reasonably priced tickets, consider catching a live match (definitely worth a  ). The cheapest tickets are available on "Hill 16," the standing-only terrace in one of the end zones of the stadium.

The GAA Museum is on the grounds of the stadium, and there you'll find a historical background of the sports, the stadium, and the events of 1920. Stadium tours can also be scheduled in addition to the museum visit. In 2014, a new Skyline Tour opened on the top levels of the stadium (GAA Museum: €6.00, Museum and Stadium Tour: €12.50, Museum and Skyline Tour: €20.00; daily 09:30–17:00, Sun 10:30–17:00 in the offseason; www.crokepark.ie, www.skylinecrokepark.ie).

Royal Canal Walk

The body of water along Croke Park isn't a river, it's a man-made canal heading west out of the city. The Royal Canal was built long after South Dublin's Grand Canal to be its direct competitor. It was a commercial catastrophe, as the construction came in late and way over budget—and the investors found out too late that there wasn't enough traffic to make operating it profitable. Today, Dublin benefits from this bad business decision by having a nice little unused waterway going through the north side of town. A walkway follows most of the canal through the north side of the city and into the country.

If you still some legs after taking in a Gaelic games double-header in the standing terrace of the stadium, try the nice one-mile (1.4 kilometer) walk along the canal from Croke Park to Phibsboro.

NOTE: The canal walk may be closed for construction on the section from Croke Park to Drumcondra Road Bridge. If it is, take Russell Avenue (the first road behind Croke Park Hotel) and follow it through the neighborhood. Take the left turn (Whitworth Avenue) halfway down the block and follow the canal from there to Drumcondra Road Bridge. The trail continues on the north side of the canal from there.

From Croker, head west on the walkway on the south bank of the canal. At the first bridge (Drumcondra Road) cross to the north bank of the canal and stay on the walkway heading west. You'll pass the statue of Brendan Behan (the guy sitting on a bench by himself), famous Irish poet, playwright, wit, and revolutionary. On the south side of the canal just a little farther west, you'll see Mountjoy Prison. Behan served time here early in his life and later wrote a famous ballad, "The Auld Triangle," about prison life. You may know the famous chorus:

And the auld triangle

Went jingle-jangle

All along the banks

Of the Royal Canal

In Behan's time, prison guards used a large triangle to signal morning wakeup, mealtimes, recreation time, and bedtime. The prison is still in use today, and the netting you see over the prison yard was put there after it was discovered that people on the outside were using consumer-level drones to fly drugs and weapons over the wall to the prisoners.

On your way, you'll notice the series of locks separating higher and lower water levels. This canal was built on relatively steep ground, so a barge would have to pass through many of these time-consuming locks to get into or out of town. Even in those days, time was money, so most cargo traffic chose the more sensibly designed Grand Canal to float their goods to the Midlands of Ireland. The large levers at each gate provided enough torque for one or two stout sailors to operate them against the crush of the water. Most are now locked to prevent vandals from flooding the city.

The wide path following the canal is a towpath—a special road built with the canal for teams of horses. Many barges in European canals were powered by pack animals pulling from these towpaths with chains. Even though progress was slow, fewer horses could pull more cargo on the water, and mechanical breakdowns—BROKEN WAGON TONGUE. WOULD YOU LIKE TO TRY TO REPAIR IT?—were rare. When canals fell out of favor in the cargo business, many of the flat towpaths on the waterways became no-brainer walking and cycling trails for recreational enjoyment.

The next bridge you will see is the Cross Guns Bridge in the Phibsboro neighborhood. From here, you have a few options. If you want to go back to City Centre, you can walk straight south on Phibsboro road 1.5 miles (2.3 kilometers) back to the River Liffey or grab a southbound bus (83, 83a, 140, 40, 4, or 9) at the Prospect Avenue stop just north of the bridge.

If you fancy a drink in one of the best-known pubs among locals—even those who haven't ever ventured this far north—visit John Kavanagh's, known exclusively around town as the Gravediggers' Pub (2) thanks to its proximity to the city's largest cemetery. To get there from the Cross Guns Bridge, head north and bear right at the fork to Botanic Road. Turn left up the tiny one-way lane that is St. Theresa's Road and find two doors into the pub on the right at the top of the hill. This nineteenth-century pub avoided the wave of modernization that turned so many traditional locals into practical-but-bland suburban sports bars. The pub today is still partitioned into two sections—as it and many other pubs once had a family-friendly grocery counter connected to the seedy barroom.

National Botanic Gardens

The National Botanic Gardens of Ireland (3) is yet another fantastic Heritage Ireland property. This sprawling parkland is home to a number of permanent outdoor gardens, indoor greenhouses, and temporary and seasonal displays of trees, plants, and flowers from around the world. The free map available at the visitor center clearly labels each garden and the many quiet paths winding through them.

Don't miss the Great Palm House, the iron-and-glass masterpiece of 19th-century opulent greenhouse design. Try to imagine how exotic the jungle and desert exhibits must have seemed to Victorian Dubliners who might never have left their small, temperate island. At the north end of the park, the River Tolka is swift and clear. Look for the native brown trout in the shallow runs below rapids. The Tolka is one of three rivers in Dublin to support slowly recovering salmon populations, count yourself very lucky if you see them.

The gardens also offer free mp3 audio tours that can be downloaded from their website and played on your own device or purchased on a pre-loaded souvenir mp3 player. Each audio tour includes a PDF map of the tour route. There are currently three of these guided audio tours available.

The Botanic Gardens also host temporary art exhibits, lectures, guided tours, demonstrations, and other events throughout the year, mostly in the visitor center and café. Check the schedule on their website for events during your trip (Free; Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat–Sun 10:00–18:00, closes at 16:30 in winter; www.botanicgardens.ie).

Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum

Attached to the Botanic Gardens is one of Ireland's most important national memorials, Glasnevin Cemetery (4). The main entrance is to the west on Finglas Road, but there is a somewhat hidden entrance from the Botanic Gardens. From just inside the main entrance, turn left and walk about a minute along the boundary to this "secret" gate.

This burial ground was the result of Daniel O'Connell's cries in the British Parliament for fair treatment of Irish Catholics. Before O'Connell's push, there were no cemeteries where priests could legally perform Catholic rites before burial. O'Connell's vision was for a truly public cemetery, one in which Protestants, Catholics, Jews, and people of any other religious belief could be buried—a revolutionary idea in its day. For a long time after its founding, it was one of the only places in Dublin for Catholic burials, and is currently home to the remains of more than 1.5 million people.

O'Connell's Tower in Glasnevin Cemetery

As such, a number of prominent Irish heroes are buried here. The champion of Glasnevin O'Connell has the most impressive memorial; look for the tall round Celtic tower, you can't miss it. Irish Civil War rivals Michael Collins and Éamon De Valera are both buried here, and people regularly visit to place flowers on the grave of the one supported by their family during the conflict. (According to cemetery staff, Collins gets more.)

Many other important Irish figures are buried here, including freedom fighters Countess Markievicz and Roger Casement, playwright and poet Brendan Behan (whose memorial you may have seen along the Royal Canal), and singer Luke Kelly. The cemetery is still open for new burials, so if you are interested...

The Glasnevin Museum is not free, but it provides more insight and history about the cemetery, burial practices, and cemetery founder Daniel O'Connell. There is also a café in the museum lobby if you are in need of refreshment (Cemetery: Free, Museum: €6.00, Museum and Guided Cemetery Tour: €12.00; daily 10:00–17:00; www.glasnevintrust.ie). Bus 140 or 40 both return to City Centre from outside the main entrance to Glasnevin.

Experience Gaelic Games

For a hands- and sticks-on taste of Ireland's national sports, consider booking in with Experience Gaelic Games. This 3.5-hour Gaelic games immersion is the best way to learn about these traditional sports—probably the most "Irish" thing you can do while you're here. Qualified instructors run you through the basics of handball (similar to racquetball or squash played without a racket), hurling, and Gaelic football before throwing in for a few friendly matches. After playing the games yourself, you'll have a much better understanding of the level of skill (and bravery) required of Gaelic games players when you see them on TV or at the stadium.

This is a physical activity. Flat shoes are required and athletic clothing is highly recommended. You can play at your own speed and level of ability, but don't be surprised if you find yourself really digging in to these fun, fast games. Changing rooms are provided on site.

Large groups are required to schedule a session in advance; solo travelers, couples, and small groups can sign up for public sessions on Fridays and Saturdays. I found it to be a great time as a solo visitor, but it would be even more fun for a small, close group—bachelor/ette party, anyone? When you book, check out the package deals (including various hostel and restaurant/bar combos) for some great values. This isn't a cheap activity, but for a half-day of guided coaching and instruction on three unfamiliar sports, you can't do much better.

The Dublin experience is conducted at the Na Fianna GAA club just north of the National Botanic Gardens (see instructions to find it from City Centre here), with similar experiences at other GAA clubs in Galway and Cork if that better suits your itinerary (Public sessions starting at €35.00, advance booking required; Fridays and Saturdays or by arrangement; www.experiencegaelicgames.com).

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### Clontarf and a Gambling-Free Casino

Casino at Marino

Bull Island and St. Anne's Park

The Battle of Clontarf Heritage Trail

The most pleasant of Dublin's northeast suburbs—well past the industrial docks and crowded streets of City Centre—is the Clontarf neighborhood. This flat stretch of sandy reclaimed land swells out into Dublin Bay between the city and the peninsula of Howth. The name is famous in Irish legend as the site of the Battle of Clontarf in 1014, and also as the birthplace of famed Dracula author Bram Stoker. Today it's mostly a quiet suburb with a nice seaside walk and cycle track, a very curious little house, and an island with some unique flora and fauna.

Unfortunately, the sights and sounds of the northeast side of the city are a bit spread out and not as easy to reach on foot; it would be tricky to try to see everything in and around Clontarf in one afternoon, and I wouldn't recommend trying. If you are staying in the neighborhood, by all means take advantage of the beautiful seaside with an early morning walk. If you have a specific interest in unusual architecture, make a point not to miss the Casino at Marino. Read on and make a plan for what you might want to see. Note that most of the Clontarf attractions are for more specific tastes rather than general tourist interest. If nothing stands out to you, feel free to give this neighborhood a pass.

You can get to this part of the city on foot, by bus, or by DART train. If walking—keeping in mind that the walking route goes beyond the usual tourist map—head northeast from the Custom House in City Centre on Amiens Street. At a big intersection, you'll pass a large lamppost called The Five Lamps, a local Dublin landmark. Each of the lights represents one of the five big streets that meet at this messy junction. Annoyed Northside Dubliners used to respond to requests for directions with, "Do ye know the Five Lamps? Go hang your bollocks/knockers off 'em!" Very rude indeed.

Continue over the Royal Canal onto North Strand Road, crossing the River Tolka to the edge of Fairview Park. Continue around the park to the intersection of Malahide Road and Clontarf Road. The Casino at Marino is just up the hill on Malahide Road from this intersection; the Clontarf Road DART Station (and the Battle of Clontarf Heritage Trail) is down Clontarf Road towards the sea.

Alternatively, take the DART to Clontarf Road for quick access to the seaside trail or to Raheny for the nearest stop to North Bull Island, several miles around the coast from Clontarf Road.

Casino at Marino

Despite what most visitors might think, the Casino at Marino (4) is not a house of gambling. This Neo-Classical pleasure house was commissioned by a wealthy Anglo-Irish aristocrat after his long tour around Europe. Inspired by the casinos in Italy—casino literally means "small house" in Italian—he hired a well-known architect to design a building strictly as a novelty. No one would live in the casino, it was just to be an interesting showpiece on his estate.

The Casino at Marino

From the outside, the casino looks like one large room with a grand door facing to the north and large windows looking to the city and the sea, but this is just one of many tricks the design of the house plays on the eyes. The fine interior tour reveals that the building has three levels and sixteen rooms. Offset windows with special eighteenth-century one-way panes hide the fact that they are lighting multiple rooms and staircases. The upper floor is lit with windows that are hidden from view at ground level. Even the pillars and the urns on the roof of the building have something to hide. The 45-minute tour is very interesting, but the out-of-the-way location of the Casino at Marino makes this fall just short of the must-see list.

To get there, take the DART to Clontarf Road Station, turn left on Clontarf Road, then right up the hill of Malahide Road—Bram Stoker's birthplace is on Marino Crescent overlooking the small park at Clontarf Road and Malahide Road—or Dublin Bus 27, 27a, or 27b from Eden Quay to Nazareth House stop (€4.00, free on the first Wed of each month; May & Oct daily from 10:00–17:00, Jun–Sep 10:00–18:00, closed in winter; tours on the top of each hour, last tour starts one hour before closing; check website before visit for announcements of interruptions in service, www.heritageireland.ie/en/casinomarino/).

Bull Island & St. Anne's Park

From anywhere on Dublin's northeast coast, you'll see a sandy island in the bay—although at low tide it might look like a dry sand dune in a field of marshy mud. This is North Bull Island (8), the island made half by humans, half by nature. Dublin's River Liffey mouth had at one time a major problem with silt deposited by the flowing tides. Dredging was expensive and mostly ineffective, so walls were built on first the south, then the north side of the entrance to Dublin's Docklands. The south wall juts out from the Poolbeg Peninsula, and the bright red lighthouse clearly marks its end. The north wall was designed for Dublin by Captain Bligh of Mutiny on the Bounty fame. The walls succeeded in creating a strong outward tide that sucked several feet of sand and silt out of the Liffey, but it had to go somewhere. This island slowly rose out of the bay as, year by year, more sand was deposited by the tides diverted by the wall.

Today, the island is home to an interesting array of sand- and salt-tolerant plants, birds and mammals that thrive here more than anywhere else in the city; a small golf course; and a huge stretch of sandy beach called Dollymount Strand. Until recently, teenage drivers-in-training used to use the compacted sand of Dollymount for practice. In the summertime, look for the windsurfers taking advantage of the easy seas and strong breezes.

Bull Island is accessible from a wooden bridge on its south side and a causeway near its center. In the center of the island, there is a small interpretive center that is open only occasionally. The easiest way to reach the center of the island is by DART. Take the train to the Raheny station, head directly south (past the church) on Station Road, continue to Main Street, and take a left on Watermill Road all the way to the sea and the Bull Island causeway.

On the way to Bull Island, you'll pass the edge of St. Anne's Park (7), another of Dublin's large, interesting parks. It has some nice inner gardens and wooded walking trails, and is a favorite of the locals. It doesn't have the busy urban charm of the Urban Park Scramble, but in it you can find a nice, quiet walk if you happen to be in the neighborhood or have a longer Dublin stay. The best parts of the park are in the middle of the eastern side, the best pedestrian entrances are along the southeast edge lining Clontarf Road and the coast. Keep an eye out for one of the many local festivals celebrated in the park through the year (www.dublincity.ie/main-menu-services-recreation-culture-dublin-city-parks-visit-park/st-annes-park).

The Battle of Clontarf Heritage Trail

A gorgeous, wide walking trail and bike path follows most of Dublin's northeast coast from Clontarf almost to the Howth Peninsula. The best stretch is from near the Clontarf Road DART Station to the wooden bridge at the south end of North Bull Island, but the trail can be joined and enjoyed anywhere on its sizable stretch. On a sunny day, the sand and the exotic palm trees will almost make you feel transported to a tropical paradise—almost.

Dublin in Detail: The Battle of Clontarf

_The Battle of Clontarf celebrated its 1000-year anniversary in 2014. Festivals popped up all over Dublin, celebrating all things Viking and Viking-Age Ireland. The story of this battle and its main players is quite complex and shrouded in innuendo and mystery—as you might expect from a complex political/military drama from the eleventh century._

On April 23, 1014, Brian Boru, then the High King of Ireland, led his army against the forces of Vikings and several other Irish competitors. The night before the battle, the Boru army is said to have camped in Kilmainham, near what is now the Irish Museum of Modern Art in the Royal Hospital Kilmainham. The next day, the battle raged from sunrise to sunset, mostly in the northeastern part of the city—which bore very little resemblance to the sandy flat you see today.

Very little physical evidence of the battle remains. Contrary to popular myth, weapons and armor weren't usually abandoned or buried at battle sites for archaeologists to discover. Historians have done their best to piece together the events of the day based on vague or exaggerated accounts. One account has it that the battle was ended by a heavy tide rushing inland at sunset, separating army units, drowning heavily armored soldiers, and causing havoc and confusion. This was confirmed when the tide table of that day was calculated by historical almanac software: very strong high tides at approximately sunrise and sunset.

In the end, Brian Boru's army was victorious, although the High King himself was slain. As a result of the battle, the invading Vikings lost control of much of their Irish land, and power was more evenly distributed to other Irish kings. The battle symbolizes the native Irish victory over a foreign invading force, and thus the tale of Brian Boru lived on throughout the long control of the British over Ireland.

Brian Boru mural in the Dublin City Hall Rotunda

Today, Boru is honored in various ways throughout the city. In the main domed entryway of Dublin City Hall, look up to see the bearded High King on horseback rallying his troops the night before the attack; in the Trinity College Library, the harp that served as the model for Ireland's national emblem—and the Guinness logo—is nicknamed "Brian Boru's Harp," even though it wasn't built until several centuries after his death.

Along the trail, look for signboards tracking the Battle of Clontarf Heritage Trail (5). The maps point out various historical and modern highlights in Clontarf—including possible specific locations of pivotal moments of the famous battle. If you can, try to walk the trail at high tide (check the local tide tables at  www.tide-forecast.com/locations/Dublin-Ireland/tides/latest), as the view of the Docklands, the city, and the bay is so much more pleasant when the sea is, well, present.

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### Southside Extended

Grand Canal Walk

National Print Museum

Ballsbridge

A long walk from Sandymount

Many define Dublin's City Centre as the land between the canals—the Royal Canal in the north and the Grand Canal in the south. For most tourists, I would argue that City Centre is even smaller—maybe from St. Stephen's Green to the Spire, but the thrifty Dublin visitor can explore the sights well south of the Green safely, comfortably, and cheaply.

Grand Canal Walk

The Royal Canal on the north side of the city was built to be a direct competitor to this much-better-planned canal. Both waterways connect Dublin and its Irish Sea port with the River Shannon in the midlands which eventually ends up in the Atlantic. The Grand Canal was first opened in 1804 and was an engineering marvel in its day. Barges pulling people and cargo used to zip up and down the canal, crossing the many hand-powered lock gates to overcome the changes in elevation from sea level to the hills of central Ireland. Until recently, Guinness used to send kegs of liquid black joy from its brewery in Dublin to the western half of the island using canal barges.

Today, the Grand Canal is mostly recreational. A few pleasure boats and floating restaurants will move from lock to lock in the summer months, and you are likely to see anglers fishing for perch, pike, and carp in this sometimes-littered urban waterway. Luckily, a wide walking path follows the entire length of the canal in the city, so you can take advantage of a quiet stroll away from the tourist crowds...if the weather cooperates.

The canal is a lovely walk from any point to any other, but the easiest access for visitors is probably the stretch from Baggot Street to Clanbrassil Street, about 1.4 miles (2.2 kilometers). Make sure to have a map or a mobile device loaded with an offline map before leaving City Centre. We won't go too far from the familiar places, but you should always be prepared. To get to Baggot Street from City Centre, follow St. Stephen's Green North southeast from the south end of Grafton Street. Continue straight onto Merrion Row, which turns into Baggot Street Lower.

When you hit the canal, stay on the north bank—the one closest to City Centre—and the walking trail. You'll first walk by the edge of the Georgian district of the city, from Baggot Street to Leeson Street. After crossing Leeson Street, you can get a closer look at the hand-powered locks of the canal. The big wooden arms with metal handles act as giant levers that could have been operated by one strong puller. When a barge pulled up to a lock, the lockkeepers (or the barge crew) would open the first gate to let the barge in, then the water inside the lock would be raised or lowered to match the water level of the other side. The other gate would then be opened to allow the barge to continue. The Grand Canal was built over much more level ground than its Royal competitor, meaning barges had to navigate through far fewer locks to reach the Shannon. Fewer locks meant a faster trip, and even in the nineteenth century, time was money.

Stay on the walking trail—another towpath built for barge-pulling pack animals—on the north side of the canal and continue. Look in the water, it might be weedy and a bit littered, but you might catch a glimpse of some of the fish the anglers are chasing. The small gray ones with red fins are roach, the gold-colored fish with vertical black bars are perch, the larger bottom feeders are carp, and the sneaky green torpedoes are pike. You'll pass the Luas bridge (at the Charlemont stop, if you're interested) carrying the green line south into the suburbs.

If you want to cut the walk off a bit early, I wouldn't blame you if you took Richmond Street at the second bridge past the Luas line north into City Centre. Richmond becomes Camden Street, another of Dublin's busy shopping districts packed with markets, pubs, and restaurants much like those of the Creative Quarter near Grafton Street.

If you do continue along the canal, you'll be in Dublin's Portobello neighborhood. The small bronze plaques depicting anglers and fish are stations for fishing tournaments held here by the local angling club. For Irish writing fans, the George Bernard Shaw Birthplace is on Synge Street two blocks north of the canal. An understated plaque above the door refers to him simply as: "Author of many plays."

A few blocks west on Walworth Road is the Irish Jewish Museum. This museum was established by and honors the large community of Jewish immigrants that settled here in Portobello. The neighborhood is currently involved in a battle over a proposed museum expansion (Free; May–Sep Sun–Thu 11:00–15:30, Oct–Apr Sun only 10:30–14:30; www.jewishmuseum.ie).

The next canal bridge will be at Clanbrassil Street, and the end of this guide, but the canal continues. A dedicated walker with a detailed map can walk the canal trail to Suir Road before heading north to reach Kilmainham Gaol, the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, and Phoenix Park.

Less dedicated walkers can head back to City Centre by heading straight north on Clanbrassil Street, maybe stopping by the well-priced craft beer pub 57 The Headline on the corner of Clanbrassil and South Circular Road just one block north of the canal (www.57theheadline.ie). Follow Clanbrassil all the way up as it turns into New Street, Patrick Street (as it passes St. Patrick's Cathedral) and Nicholas Street as it arrives at Christ Church Cathedral.

National Print Museum

This hidden gem is a few blocks south of the Grand Canal, and would make a great detour from the above Grand Canal Walk or a stop on the way from Ballsbridge to City Centre. This one-room museum was first established in the 1980s to preserve the age-old art of traditional typesetting and printmaking as advancing technology threatened to eliminate the need for the traditional skills of printers and bookbinders.

The museum has an impressive collection of mostly still-functional printing machines of varying levels of advancement. Be sure not to miss the newspaper roller display with a step-by-step description of old-timey newspaper printing from designing the page to making the roller to perforating and cutting the final sheets. Ask for a demonstration for a chance to make your own WANTED poster with a working movable type press. During the week, printers come to the museum to use the working machines for printing and art projects, so you may get to see some of these curious machines in loud, clunking-clacking action.

The upper balcony level of this once-chapel is temporary exhibit space, and the museum shop, café, and toilets are at the back end of the ground floor.

The museum is at the very back of the Beggar's Bush complex on Haddington Road. To get there from City Centre, head south from the Grand Canal at Baggot Street and turn left onto Haddington Road (R111). From Ballsbridge, head north on Shelbourne Road past the big stadium and turn left onto that same Haddington Road. (Free, guided tours €3.50 (advance booking recommended), free tours every Sunday at 15:00; Mon–Fri 09:00–17:00, Sat–Sun 14:00–17:00; www.nationalprintmuseum.ie).

Ballsbridge

It is very possible that you may be staying in a hotel in the southern suburbs of the city. A number of popular hotels line the main roads going south from City Centre. If you find yourself staying in or near these suburbs, they are all worth some on-foot exploration.

The wealthy suburb of Ballsbridge is one of the swankiest in town, second maybe to Dalkey farther south on the coast. Two streets here take the place of both Park Place and Boardwalk in the Irish version of Monopoly (Ailesbury Road and Shrewsbury Road, respectively). Many national embassies (and ambassadors' residences) are in Georgian buildings here. The Embassy of the United States is right in the middle of Ballsbridge, at 42 Elgin Road. Across the road, you'll see the huge complex of the Royal Dublin Society, formerly of Leinster House in City Centre. The RDS regularly hosts conventions, concerts, and athletic events like the famous Dublin Horse Show in August. You'll know it's Horse Show time if you see men in expensive suits and women and girls wearing monstrous hats.

The central hub of Ballsbridge is the bridge itself and the surrounding blocks. The bridge crosses the River Dodder, one of Dublin's trout and salmon streams. This portion of the river is the very end of the tidal zone, where some saltwater comes up the river at high tide. From the bridge, a trail follows the north bank of the Dodder (past the Herbert Park Hotel) along the border of Herbert Park. This suburban park is one of Dublin's largest, and was once the site of an international World's Fair. The long lake in the southern part of the park was, believe it or not, the splashdown zone of a 1907 waterslide. Back at Ballsbridge, the trial continues on the south side of the Dodder all the way up to the Docklands in City Centre.

A long walk from Sandymount

The village directly east of Ballsbridge is called Sandymount, named for its well-known beach Sandymount Strand. This urban sand beach has been a popular gathering spot on warm days in Dublin for hundreds of years. Unfortunately, there isn't an easy one-road way to get there from Sandymount's main square, but the best walk is from farther south anyway. I recommend starting at Sydney Parade, either by taking the DART to the SYDNEY PARADE stop or by walking south from Ballsbridge along Merrion Road to Sydney Parade Avenue—across from the Merrion Shopping Centre. From the Sydney Parade DART station, walk east until you hit the coast, less than one half-mile (0.8 kilometers).

Sandymount Strand is Dublin's mini resort beach. If the weather is warm, the beach is sure to be crowded with locals enjoying the limited summer sunshine. This area has a huge tidal range; the waves crash right up to the walkway at high tide, and the water is barely visible over a vast field of mud at low tide. The concrete structure out in that field of mud is the old Victorian bath, used in the days when doctors used to prescribe "fresh sea air and sunshine" to cure diseases. A wooden walkway connected the shore to this protected swimming pool so the dainty Victorians didn't have to get their swimming skirts muddy. According to legend, the baths were closed when it was discovered that mischievous Victorian boys used to hang out under the walkway to get a glimpse up the skirts of the girls walking to the sheltered pool.

The wide path is part of a long and very interesting coastal walk. If you have a few hours and the weather (and tides) are cooperating, it's worth the trek. Looking from Sandymount Strand, the most easily recognizable features are the twin smokestacks of the Poolbeg Power Station. These two chimneys used to vent an old coal-fired electric plant in Dublin's Docklands, but have been out of service for several years. They are among the tallest structures in Ireland, and were used as Dublin establishing shots in the music video for U2's "Pride (In the Name of Love)." Planners and politicians have debated about the future of these obsolete chimneys. Some argue that they should be taken down to save on maintenance costs, while others point out that they are an iconic Dublin landmark, and they serve as an important navigational mark for ships coming in from the Irish Sea.

Poolbeg Chimneys

Out in the bay, you can see the bright red Poolbeg Lighthouse on the end of a long pier. If you care to, you can walk all the way around the coast and all the way along the jetty to the lighthouse itself. Head north at Sandymount Strand along the beach. When the trail hits a sharp corner at Sean Moore Park, turn right to follow the shoreline. The coastal trail takes you past the Irishtown Nature Preserve, a park better suited for migrating birds than for sightseeing travelers. I stick to the path along the coast all the way.

Past the park, the trail joins a road bordering the old power station and another sandy beach. In the summer, this beach is a popular spot for windsurfers, look for them at high tide. Follow the road (or the beach) around two more corners to reach the base of the lighthouse jetty. The lighthouse is farther away than it looks, 1.25 miles (2 kilometers) each way over a rough road. If tides are high and heavy, it may not be safe to walk on the jetty. If it is safe and you decide to walk to the lighthouse, you can get great views of Dun Laoghaire, Howth, and Dublin's Docklands. There are a few benches around the lighthouse from which you can enjoy a picnic lunch or just admire the view and chat with the ever-present anglers. You may even get a close look at a ferry, cargo freighter, or cruise ship coming into or out of the city.

The easiest way back to City Centre on foot from any point of this walk is to return to the corner of Sandymount Strand and Sean Moore Park. From there, you can walk back to Sydney Parade and the DART station or head northwest along Beach Road to Bath Street to Irishtown Road, crossing the bridge at Bridge Street and on to Pearse Street in City Centre. Use an extended city map or a mobile device to ensure you don't take any wrong turns.

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Howth

Harbour Road and the piers

Howth Head hiking

North of the inlet of Dublin Bay, a rounded peninsula called Howth Head juts out into the Irish Sea. This small piece of land is one of the most striking sights on Dublin Bay. The dominating feature of Howth is the rugged but very walker-friendly mountain. On the north side of the peninsula, the village of Howth makes a great and convenient spot from which to launch a pleasant yet rugged hill hike.

The easiest way to get to Howth is the DART train. At any DART station, board any northbound train bound for HOWTH (not HOWTH JUNCTION, not MALAHIDE) and take it to the end of the line. The Howth DART Station (1) is on the west side of the village, near the West Pier.

Harbour Road and the piers

Fresh off the DART, you'll be ready for some sea air lightly tinged with the smell of freshly-caught fish. The West Pier (2), nearest the station, is the more functional of the two. Most of the pier is lined with commercial fish markets (look for the gaggles of gulls), seafood restaurants, and little fish stalls. Some of the best fish in Dublin can be had here for the best prices, as the boats literally unload their catch here first thing in the morning. If the tide is high, the West Pier will be your best bet to see the seals that come in to take shelter from the heavy seas and eat the scraps from fishing boats. At the far tip of the pier, the footprints of King George IV are imprinted in the concrete to acknowledge his visit in 1821...if you care.

After the West Pier, you'll have to walk along Harbour Road to get anywhere else in town. This lovely seaside street is lined with a number of great pubs, restaurants, and the original flagship location of Beshoff Bros. Fish and Chips (3). You'll know Beshoff's from the line of locals going out the door of this takeaway-only storefront. You'll have to eat your fish in the seaside park across the street or on the piers. Shame, isn't it? The new Howth tourist office is here along Harbour Road (Daily 9:30–17:00). On the weekends, check out the open-air market in a small plaza behind the main row of storefronts (www.howthmarket.ie).

Behind Harbour Road, you'll see the ruins of an old building, Howth Abbey (4). A church has stood on this spot since 1042, but the current ruin dates to the fifteenth century. It's free to poke around this old husk and its cemetery, and worth the uphill walk for the views of the harbor. The entrance is on the uphill side of the building, on Church Street. You can head up Church Street from Harbour Road near the DART station or walk up Abbey Street near the East Pier and get on Church Street from there.

The East Pier (5) is the one with the lighthouse on its end. This pier has much less commercial activity, but still makes a nice walk out into the bay. From here, you can get a good look at the island, Ireland's Eye. If you look closely on a clear day, you can see the ruins of an eighth-century church, built when the island was still inhabited. There are free toilets near the base of the East Pier.

Howth Head hiking

After your seaside visits, the real draw to Howth awaits high on the hills overlooking the city. Several trails begin at the main trailhead past the eastern edge of town. To get there, stay on Balscadden Road along the coast from the East Pier. From the Trailhead (6), you can begin any of the color-coded trails ranging in length and difficulty. These trails can be muddy and slippery in wet conditions, and high winds can be dangerous. Make sure to have proper hiking shoes and be safe near the unfenced cliff edge.

Baily Lighthouse

The Cliff Path Loop is a good, safe start; the Bog of Frogs Loop is much longer and more ambitious. All trails pass by the Summit, a small parking lot and viewing area on a high point of the peninsula. From here, you can continue around the peninsula trail or take a more direct path to town via the Cliff Path Loop or the Tramline Loop, following the path of an early twentieth-century tram that carried well-heeled passengers up the hill for the spectacular view.

Choose your path carefully. No matter which loop you choose, you'll get great views of Howth, Ireland's Eye, Dublin City, and Lambay Island in the far northern distance. Lambay is Ireland's easternmost point, and home to a population of wild wallabies introduced in the 1980s (www.irishtrails.ie).

All of the hiking trails loop back to Howth village, so you can rest your weary feet before catching the DART back to the city. Any southbound DART train will visit all of the City Centre stops.

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### Dun Laoghaire

Dun Laoghaire Village

Pier walks

Sandycove Point

Seapoint Beach

Almost a mirror to Howth in the north, Dun Laoghaire ("Done LEERY") has its own unique seaside charm, complete with a busy harbor, shopping, pubs and restaurants, and a nice coastal stroll. City Centre is just a short and easy train ride away, so it makes a nice side trip or home base on your visit to Dublin.

To get to Dun Laoghaire, DART is still the way to go. From City Centre (or Howth), take any southbound train terminating at BRAY or GREYSTONES and get off at the Dun Laoghaire DART Station (1). Get a sea-facing window seat on the train to enjoy the coastal views if you can. The train station is near the center of the village right on the coast, between the two piers. From the train station, you can head inland to the village or directly to the shoreline. Let the weather, your schedule, and your preference decide which you'll do first.

Dun Laoghaire Village

The train station is near Marine Road, with the town hall, a Tourist Information Center (2) (open year-round but hours vary, www.dlharbour.ie/visit-us/tourism), and a large shopping center. One long block inland, find the town's main drag, George's Street. From the Marine Road intersection, pubs, restaurants, and shopping line the street in both directions. Of particular note are the many secondhand charity shops, mostly on George's Street Lower. Why not pick up an authentic souvenir worn or used by a local and support one of the many charities at the same time? If you're in town on a Sunday, stop over to the open-air market in People's Park (3), a few blocks southeast of the busy village center along the coast (Market open Sun 11:00–16:00).

Pier walks

Just like Howth, Dun Laoghaire has two walkable piers, east and west. They straddle the busy harbor, mostly home to personal sailboats and the dock for one of the daily ferries crossing the Irish Sea to Holyhead, Wales on Great Britain. The most easily accessible and busiest of the two is the East Pier (4). It has a high path and a low path, with good views from both sides. In the summertime, street musicians play along the pier, especially in the old Victorian Bandstand. From the end, you can get a good look at most of Dun Laoghaire village, Dublin to the north, and the very swanky Dalkey to the south, where the likes of Bono and Van Morrison have homes. The West Pier (5) is accessible, just as scenic, and much less crowded than the East Pier. To reach the West Pier, stay on Harbour Road (the road closest to the water) from the town center, following the brown signs for WEST PIER.

Looking out into the bay from either pier, you'll see the bright red and still-operating Poolbeg Lighthouse and the dual chimneys of the old Poolbeg Power Station, both marking the entrance to Dublin's Docklands. Farther north, the hilly peninsula is Howth Head. On a clear day, you may be able to see the white Bailey Lighthouse on the very outer tip.

Sandycove Point

From the East Pier, a coastal path connects Dun Laoghaire to nearby Sandycove Point (6), you can spot it from Dun Laoghaire with its round Martello tower. When the tide is low, you can walk on the older low path, but be careful of the slippery rocks and steps. The higher wide sidewalk following Newtownsmith Road and Marine Parade is much more comfortable. Upon reaching Sandycove Point, you'll first pass the small, family-friendly sand beach and a large information board about the point. Continue out to the end of the point to the 40 Foot Bathing Place. This historic water access used to be (as the sign still says) for fully nude gentlemen only, but has long since been open to everyone. Some swimmers still take a dip in the nip here, but only early in the morning (Brrrr...) Again, use caution when negotiating the slippery rocks.

Fancy a swim in the Forty Foot?

Continue around the point to reach the entrance of the James Joyce Tower Museum. This is your best chance to see the inside of one of these squat towers originally build to repel the invading forces of Napoleon that never made it here. The exhibits are mostly dedicated to the famous and controversial Irish author James Joyce, who spent a week as a guest in the tower and set the opening of his famous novel Ulysses in the upper bedroom. Even if you aren't at all interested in literature or Joyce, it's worth the time just to climb the narrow spiral staircase to the roof for a great view of the whole South Dublin coast (Free; summer 10:00–18:00, winter 10:00–16:00; www.jamesjoycetower.com).

Seapoint Beach

For another seaside walk, consider heading northwest from Dun Laoghaire to another local favorite swimming hole at Seapoint Beach. To get there from the train station, head west on Harbour Road staying closest to the water, between the train tracks and the coast. First, you'll pass the West Pier of Dun Laoghaire. To continue to Seapoint, stay on the path along the tracks past the Salthill/Monkstown DART station. You'll see another Martello tower ahead of you, that's where we're heading.

Seapoint Beach is another favorite year-round local swimming hole. Note the loose use of the word "beach"; you won't find any soft sand here. At high tide, swimmers can walk down the cement ramps into the water to avoid walking on the rough rocks. The stone walkway provides excellent water access and great views of the bay. The Martello tower here serves as a dressing room for bathers and storage space for the local historical society. Before you leave, don't miss the free toilets near the tower. The nearest DART station to Seapoint is Salthill/Monkstown, the station you passed on your way from Dun Laoghaire.

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Dalkey and Killiney

Dalkey Island

Killiney Hill

Once Dublin's main shipping port and now home to Ireland's rich and famous, the small coastal villages of Dalkey and Killiney mark the southern end of Dublin Bay and the northern reach of the Wicklow Mountains. Both are on the DART line, easily reached from anywhere in City Centre. The best sights are all near the DALKEY station, don't get off at KILLINEY, even if you plan to visit Killiney Hill.

Dalkey Island

The highlight of this little corner of the Irish coast is Dalkey Island, a small, uninhabited rock just a stone's throw from the mainland. Some of Ireland's earliest human settlements were established on this easily defensible rock—evidence of continuous human activity dates back to the Mesolithic period more than 6,000 years ago. In Ireland's early Christian period, the island was established as a monastic settlement, which thrived until the Vikings—well known for upsetting the locals wherever their longboats landed—showed up and established the island as a trading port.

Today, the best-preserved structures are the stone walls of the tenth-century St. Begnet's Church, a Martello tower (just like the others dotting Dublin's coast), and a ruined gun fort on the seaward side. The church and the gun fort, like so many other Irish ruins, are free for (careful) exploration and discovery. Get a good look at the durable stonework of the church—particularly the stone cross in its window—and think about the daily life of a monk scraping out a living here on this meager rock a thousand years ago.

Dalkey Island Tower and Church

Humans have left the island, but the wildlife continues to thrive. Seals regularly take shelter in the rocky coves of the island, and dolphins and porpoises sometimes cruise by in the bay. Numerous seabirds use the island—and its smaller sisters—for feeding and nesting. A herd of feral goats keep the grass well clipped, and a large population of rabbits dig ankle-breaking holes at every opportunity—watch your step.

The island is served every day by Ken, the friendly and knowledgeable ferry operator. His small boat can carry up to five passengers across the small channel to the island, at which time you can explore the island as thoroughly as you care to. When you're ready to return to the mainland, "Just give me a call, if you don't have a phone, walk down to the dock and give me a wave!" Ken recommends calling ahead on the morning of your visit to confirm that his small boat will be running at the time of your planned visit. The weather in City Centre is not necessarily an indicator of the weather on the coast. Be prepared for cooler air temperatures, stronger winds, and an increased likelihood of rain on the island. Bring suitable clothing and footwear if you plan to poke around the tricky terrain and treacherous ruins on the island—and you should. I recommend taking a picnic lunch out to the island, finding a smooth and rabbit dung–free rock on which to sit, eat, and watch the seals.

The ferry operates from Coliemore Harbour, down Coliemore Road from Dakley village center. From the DART station, take Railway Road (Bothar an Iarnrod) north—away from the tracks—to the Magpie Inn in the town center. Take a quick right on Convent Road, then an immediate right on Coliemore Road, which you'll follow for about a half-mile (750 meters) to the harbor (Ferry €7.00 adult; Daily 10:00–18:00, call +353 085 242 6516 to confirm weather conditions on the day; www.kentheferryman.com).

Killiney Hill

From Dalkey Island—and even from as far away as City Centre—you might see the spike of the white Obelisk on the summit of Killiney Hill. This coastal rise, named for Dalkey's southern neighbor Killiney, is maintained as a pleasant and easily walkable public park and trail system. The north side of the hill is mostly clear cut of trees, and a large chunk of this area was quarried away to build the piers in nearby Dun Laoghaire. The southern part of the hill is a better walk through the trees on well-maintained trails to the obelisk at the top. This curious hilltop spear point is a monument to an earlier and less-famous Irish famine (1740–1741) than An Gorta Mór, the Great Famine (1845–1852). From the obelisk's clearing, catch some nice views of the city and Howth to the north and the hulk of Bray Head to the south—if the fog isn't too thick. If you'd like to know which of the houses you can see from the hill belong to Irish celebrities like Bono, Enya, and Van Morrison, you'll have to consult a less credible guidebook.

The whole hill is crisscrossed with trails, the easiest access is from the carpark on the northern side near the quarry. There are trail entrances on the other faces of the hill, but they can be difficult to find. As much as I like this walk and the views, I have to recommend the walks in Howth and Bray for a better experience for the time-crunched traveler.

To get to the carpark from the DART station, turn left on Railway Road (Bothar an Iarnrod on the Irish-only signs), crossing the tracks, then take the first right—away from the tracks—and follow it until Cunningham Road. Turn right on Cunningham, then go left on Dalkey Avenue. At the roundabout, take the roadside path on the left and follow it into the carpark.

If you visit on a sunny day, you'll see cars parked up and down the length of Vico Road to visit the popular sandy beach. Look for the small pull-off for the trail entrance that leads to a DART track overpass and the beach beyond. A number of smaller trails run down to the rocky coast along the length of Vico Road, if you care for a more secluded look at the Irish Sea.

To return to City Centre, catch any northbound DART train at the Dalkey station, or you can head farther south down the coast to Bray and Greystones.

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### Bray and Greystones

Bray

Cliff Walk and Bray Head hike

Greystones

A bit farther south along the Dublin coast (and just over the county border into Wicklow) are the two tiny towns of Bray and Greystones. These little burgs are connected by a fantastic coastal walking trail and a moderate-difficulty hill hike. Each town also has its own seaside charm and both are worth a poke around if you have time.

Bray

Southbound DART trains terminate alternately at Bray and Greystones; every train hits Bray (closer to the city), but only every other train goes all the way down to Greystones. The train station is near the northern edge of the scenic Seafront Park. Signs at the station mark the walking route to Bray Head and the Cliff Walk. Heading south toward the coast, you'll soon be on the Seaside Promenade. This cement boardwalk follows the rocky beach all the way down the village coast. During the busy season and especially during Bray's summer festival (near the end of July, www.braysummerfest.com), the walk is busy with tourists, families, musicians, and entertainment. The Bray Tourist Office is in the Civic Offices on Main Street, a few blocks inland from the beach (Mon–Fri 9:30–16:30 (closed 13:00–14:00), Sat 10:00–14:00; www.bray.ie).

Cliff Walk and Bray Head hike

The real star of these two towns is the safe and well-maintained walking trail system connecting the two along the sea. Looking south down the Bray coast, you can't miss the mountain on the small peninsula at the edge of town. If you look closely, you might see the crucifix at the top. The peninsula (and mini mountain) is Bray Head, and a busy trail goes all the way to the top. To get there, simply stay on the beach walk and follow the signs when you reach the foot of the mountain. The climb itself is moderate in difficulty, and there are great views of the village and the sea all the way up. At the top, the large cement cross is a popular spot for a photo. From the top of the head, you can see the outermost peaks of the Wicklow Mountains, the highest of which is nearby Sugarloaf—the pointy one. After admiring the views from Bray Head, you can take a longer loop from the summit back through Bray village, but I recommend back-tracking down to the trailhead to begin the walk to Greystones.

Bray Head from the beach

From the bottom of Bray Head, whether you climbed it or not, you can start the Cliff Walk from Bray to Greystones. The walk is about 4.3 miles (7 kilometers) with gentle slopes and great looks at the coast. The trail is much less difficult and much safer than those on Howth Head, but the cliff peaks (and ocean views) are much less spectacular.

The walk takes a bit more than 2 hours each way. From Bray, the trail slopes up along the DART tracks, passing informational boards about the construction of the original rail line. The middle section of the trail is more level and more sheltered by trees. Approaching Greystones, the trail turns inland and gently slopes down through farm fields and pastures into the village.

Greystones

The village of Greystones is even smaller than Bray, but its harbor area also has a nice resort feel, with a small collection of pubs, restaurants, takeaways, and an ice cream and sweet shop. Any of these make a great spot to rest after a long walk. If the weather is nice, get it to go and sit along the small harbor. The DART station is well marked and walkable from the harbor, and the route takes you through this small village, passing a few more small shops and pubs.

To maximize the Bray–Greystones experience, I recommend the following itinerary: Catch an early train from City Centre to Bray. Explore the coastline of Bray, hike to the top of Bray Head and back down before taking the Cliff Walk to Greystones. Enjoy a picnic or takeaway lunch on the harbor and catch the northbound DART train back to City Centre. On the train from Greystones, try to get a seat facing the coast, to catch the view from the window as you pass through the tunnels and along the crashing waves below the Cliff Walk.

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Part 4

Beyond Dublin
Public Transport out of Dublin

Bus Éireann

Private coach carriers

Irish Rail

Bus Éireann

Ireland's overland coach system is the cheapest and most extensive public transport service. That said, coach travel has its own set of headaches and inconveniences. Even cross-country express buses have multiple stops off the motorway and can be easily delayed by heavy traffic, uncooperative passengers, and the occasional farm animal on the road. If you have to take more than one bus, carefully check the timetables and try to avoid tight connections or you may miss your connecting bus. When planning your trip, try to minimize bus transfers, and take direct lines if at all possible. Generally, return trips on express buses from Dublin to larger cities (Belfast, Cork, or Galway) tend to be much cheaper than multi-stage journeys to and from small towns.

Buses pick up and drop off from a number of stops in the city, but most routes begin and end at the main bus station Busáras, located north of the Custom House on the north side of the River Liffey. At the station, you can pick up a timetable, plan your trip, and buy your tickets in the user-friendly machines or from a teller. There are also lockers and free toilets in the basement of the station.

If you are planning in advance (recommended), visit the Bus Éireann website (or download their free official app) and use the convenient Journey Planner to assemble your itinerary and buy your tickets with an automatic online discount. Save even more money by selecting the appropriate ticket: Single for a one-way-only journey, Standard Return for a return trip within 30 days, and Same Day Return for single-day round trips.

Tickets are not sold for individual buses (like the Sep 18 08:00 X20 from Dublin to Galway), but rather one location to another on a specific date (Dublin to Galway Sep 18). This gives you the flexibility to take any bus at any time, but the drawback is that you can't purchase a reserved spot on a specific bus. It also means that you are in charge of planning your itinerary, avoiding transfers or unnecessary stops. For example, Dublin to Galway is served by 20 and X20 buses, the latter is an express bus with fewer stops. If you are going directly to Galway, avoid getting on the 20 unless there is no other option. Also, express buses to bigger cities can fill up at peak times. If you need to be on that 08:00 X20, get to the station a bit early to be first in the queue.

If you book online, you'll receive a digital ticket that can be printed or displayed to the driver on a mobile device. Upon displaying your online ticket, the driver will print out a paper ticket that is your outbound and return ticket—do not lose this paper slip! Your online ticket is not valid for your return journey, only the printed ticket from the outbound trip. Note that cross-border tickets (to Northern Ireland) cannot be purchased online, only at a bus station or from the driver.

If you are planning to do a lot of traveling around Ireland, you may save some money with Bus Éireann's unlimited Open Road Pass. These tickets provide unlimited bus travel for a certain number of days within a given range. For example, you can buy unlimited travel for any three days out of six. Check the individual ticket fares against the price of an unlimited ticket to see if this is the right choice for you (www.buseireann.ie).

Private coach carriers

Bus Éireann isn't the only coach company in Ireland; several private competitors offer a variety of bus services around the country. Some of these are commuter lines designed for rush hour transport to the big cities; others are more tourist-friendly, serving popular hotspots and cities with a sightseer's schedule in mind. Because they aren't required by law to serve every village in Ireland, they can offer better rates on some of their express lines. Compare prices at a few companies like Dublin Coach (www.dublincoach.ie) or GoBus (www.gobus.ie) with Bus Éireann to see if you can steal a deal.

Irish Rail

Ireland's national rail system Iarnród Éireann or Irish Rail is more expensive and serves fewer cities than Bus Éireann, but the journeys are much more comfortable and sometimes, but not always, faster. Being a small country on an island, Ireland can't reasonably build and maintain the kind of rail infrastructure that is so famous on the Continent.

In Dublin, most national trains travel from Heuston Station, on the west side of town near Phoenix Park, although some routes stop at Connolly Station in City Centre as well—mostly those heading north and south along the coast. The Luas Red Line serves both of these stations. Check timetables on the Irish Rail website, the Travel for Ireland Journey Planner app, or the free Irish Rail app. I recommend comparing the travel time and price of the bus to that of the train before booking. If booking well in advance, the cost of the train might be comparable to that of the bus.

Irish Rail also sells unlimited ticket packages like the Four Day Trekker, good for four consecutive days, the Explorer, good for five days out of fifteen, and the Explorer Rail & Bus combo for eight days out of fifteen.

Online discount tickets can be purchased in advance and collected at a ticket machine or ticket window at the station. For the best value, be sure to select the correct ticket type: Single, Day Return, or Open Return (www.irishrail.ie).

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Day Trips from Dublin

Hike the Dublin Mountains

Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough

Trim and Trim Castle

Brú na Bóinne and Newgrange

Further afield

If your stay in Dublin is a bit longer, consider a full- or half-day trip to one of several rural destinations beyond the city. There are sights for everyone just an hour's drive from Dublin; stunning mountain views in County Wicklow, a still-standing Norman castle in Trim, and one of the world's oldest human-made structures at Brú na Bóinne. During the high season, you'll find public transport and guided day trips plentiful and affordable. Things get a little trickier in the winter months, but with some planning, you can make it work.

Hike the Dublin Mountains

Those hills you saw on the outskirts of town? Just the closest peaks of the rolling Dublin Mountains in the south and west of County Dublin. These hills are crisscrossed with well-marked hiking trails and are maintained by the Dublin Mountains Partnership. The easiest access point for the hiking trails is from Shankill, a few miles south of City Centre by the DART (SHANKILL stop) or Dublin Bus 145 (towards BALLYWALTRIM).

On a three-hour round trip from Shankill, you can pass an old Celtic ring fort, play around in a now out-of-service lead smelting chimney, and climb one of the higher peaks (Carrickgollogan) for a nice view of three different countries: Dublin and the Republic of Ireland at your feet, the Mountains of Mourne in Northern Ireland to the north, and on a clear day, the top of the mountain Snowdon in Wales across the Irish Sea to the east.

Lead Mine Chimney

The Dublin Mountains Partnership offers monthly free guided hikes in different parts of the mountains. Consider reserving a place if one is offered from Shankill. If you are interested in a Dublin Mountains hike without a guide, advance route planning and maps are absolutely necessary. Visit the Partnership website for more information (www.dublinmountains.ie).

Wicklow Mountains and Glendalough

The Wicklows are a bit more rural, rugged, and historic than the mountains in County Dublin, making this area a much more popular day trip for visitors. Wicklow calls itself both the "Garden of Ireland" and the "Hollywood of Europe." The former for its variety of natural and human-made outdoor beauty, the latter for the number of films shot in its hills, forests, and estates.

Wicklow is probably best experienced with a car and plenty of time—maybe even an overnight stop as part of a trip around Ireland. Many visitors don't have the time or budget flexibility for a rental car, so a number of tour companies offer various day trips covering different Wicklow sights.

The Gardens of Powerscourt Estate are a popular stop for some of the tours. Visitors can explore the grand eighteenth-century gardens and take a hike to see Ireland's largest waterfall (Gardens: €6.50, Waterfall: €5.50, admission included in some day trip tickets; www.powerscourt.com).

The village of Glendalough is a must-stop on most Wicklow day tours. Translated as "Valley of the Two Lakes," Glendalough is home to a sixth-century monastic city, with a still-standing Irish round tower. From the settlement, a very pleasant twenty-minute walk brings you to the two lakes from which the valley gets its name. Stunning views of the surrounding mountains and small waterfalls can be had from the bank of the Upper Lake. With a car and a few hours to spare, you can enjoy a hike in the surrounding hills (www.glendalough.ie).

Glendalough Upper Lake

Glendalough is in the southern part of Wicklow Mountains National Park, which is free to enter and explore if you have time. Some of the day trips (and most car-trippers) go through the park via the scenic Sally Gap Road. From this high mountaintop route, look for spectacular views of the boggy hilltops and deep valleys. Don't miss Lough Tay—known as "Guinness Lake" for its dark brown color and flat, sandy "head of foam" at one end (www.wicklowmountainsnationalpark.ie).

For a relaxed, entertaining tour at a good price, try the highly rated Wild Wicklow Tours. The comfortable coaches pick up in various spots around City Centre and Dun Laoghaire before heading down Dublin's south coast (passing the homes and castles of Irish celebrities) and into Wicklow—with entertaining and informative commentary all the way. The tour stops for photos at several scenic viewpoints along the Sally Gap Road, including Lough Tay, before stopping for a pub lunch (not included in the tour price) and continuing to Glendalough. The guide gives a brief tour of the monastic village before releasing the guests to take an optional hike to the Upper Lake, from where the tour concludes with a toast and a free shot of Jameson—just enough to make the ride home even more relaxing. The entertaining commentary about the natural and human-made history of Wicklow, the guided tour of Glendalough, and the free booze at the end make this day tour a great value (€28.00, morning coffee stop and lunch not included, student discounts available; tours run daily, advance booking required; www.wildwicklow.ie).

There are many more outdoorsy things to do in Wicklow, too many to mention here and probably too many to do in a regular Dublin visit. For more about Wicklow's outdoor attractions, visit the official tourist website (www.visitwicklow.ie).

Trim and Trim Castle

Just an hour outside of Dublin, Trim makes a great, inexpensive side trip to see life in a small Irish town, visit a well-preserved Norman keep, and, if the weather is nice, enjoy a beautiful and historic riverside stroll.

To get to Trim, take Bus Éireann route 111 from Busáras (services reduced on weekends and holidays—check the timetables!) to the town of Trim. The bus stop is on the east side of town near the River Boyne. The castle and town should be visible from the road, and a nice riverside path takes you straight to the castle.

The old hulk of Trim Castle Keep is the largest still-standing piece of what was a huge castle complex dating to the twelfth century. It lived through its share of attacks, sieges, and caretakers before falling into disrepair. Today, it has been made safe to visit (guided tour only), and it's worth the trip and the price of admission. The tour includes a series of models depicting the castle in various stages of its use, a walk through the various rooms of the keep, and a climb to the top ramparts for a great view of the town and surrounding countryside. Try to arrive early or on an off-season weekend to avoid long lines and big tour groups (no advance booking allowed), and ask the tour guides about the castle's part in the movie Braveheart (Courtyard with guided tour of the keep: €4.00 ignore the courtyard-only ticket], free on the first Wed of each month; mid-Feb–Oct daily 10:00–18:00, Nov–mid-Feb weekends only 09:00–17:00; [ www.heritageireland.ie/en/midlandseastcoast/TrimCastle).

Trim Castle keep

After the castle, take a stroll along the Trim Heritage Trail, of which the castle keep is a part. The trail technically begins at the Trim Visitor Centre near the castle, and continues along the River Boyne about 1.5 miles (2.4 kilometers) past a number of interesting ruins, all of them free for poking around. Among the highlights are the Yellow Steeple, leftover from a fourteenth-century abbey, St. Peter & Paul Cathedral, a standing ruin of what was once the largest Gothic church in Ireland with a still-in-use attached cemetery, and the Hospital of St. John the Baptist, founded as a monk-run hospital in the early 1200s. Information boards mark these and the other important building remains along the trail (www.meath.ie/Tourism/Heritage/HeritageTrails/TrimHeritageTrail).

If you have some time before catching the return 111 bus to Dublin, take a walk through the cute village of Trim. The shops and pubs here are a great representation of modern small-town Irish life—and small-town Irish prices!

Brú na Bóinne and Newgrange

To go even further back in time, visit the older-than-the-pyramids passage tombs of Newgrange and Knowth, accessible only from the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. The structures of Newgrange and Knowth were built around 3200 BC and are part of a series of mound buildings left on this hill by a mysterious ancient people about whom little is known.

Newgrange is famous for its alignment with the rising sun on the day of the Winter Solstice, when the interior chamber is lit by a narrow shaft of sunlight for just a few minutes before the chamber is plunged into pitch darkness once again. The other structure open for visitors is the larger mound of Knowth. Archaeologists have found (and are still finding) ancient burials and art in this and several other mound structures on this hill. Both of these are accessible with separate tickets from the visitor center. A shuttle van picks up groups and brings them to the site where the tour begins. Each tour group gets a few minutes in the heart of these ancient structures, and the Newgrange tour uses lights to display a re-creation of the rising sun on the Winter Solstice.

In case you were curious, Winter Solstice sunrise tickets are a very hot commodity, and are awarded by lottery each year. Tickets are non-transferrable, so you'll have to get lucky (first with the drawing, then with the weather) if you want to see the sunrise from the tomb yourself (Exhibition and Newgrange: €6.00, Exhibition, Newgrange, and Knowth: €11 Knowth closed Oct–Mar], free on the first Wed of each month; open daily, check hours; [ www.heritageireland.ie/en/brunaboinnevisitorcentre).

Newgrange entrance

The most convenient way to see Newgrange and the rest of the Boyne Valley is with a day tour. The most popular trip from Dublin is the Mary Gibbons Newgrange and Hill of Tara Tour. This highly-rated guided day tour picks up at various City Centre hotels and bus stops, while the tour guide gives a bite-sized overview of the history of Dublin and Ireland. The first stop of the day is at the Hill of Tara, the ancient royal mound of the High Kings of Ireland. Without a guide to provide the historical background, the now mostly empty hilltop isn't really worth a visit, but with the interpretation provided on this tour, it's an interesting stop. The tour continues through the village of Slane, passing by Slane Castle—now host to a big annual rock concert—and the site of the Battle of the Boyne, another mostly empty piece of countryside requiring some explanation, before reaching Brú na Bóinne and the Newgrange tour. It does cost a little more than a shuttle trip or public transport, but the convenience and informative guide is worth a little bit extra. If possible, book well in advance as these popular tours can fill up (€35.00, includes all admission costs, student discount available, lunch at Brú na Bóinne not included; www.newgrangetours.com).

If a day tour is unavailable, it is possible (although tricky) to visit Newgrange with public transport. Take the 10:00 Bus Éireann 100X from Custom House Quay (along the river in front of the green-domed Custom House—the bus does NOT stop at Busáras) to the Drogheda Bus Station. From there, transfer to the 163, which leaves Drogheda at 11:15, to Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. The 163 makes only one return to the visitor center at 15:10, so try get the earliest tours so you don't miss it.

Further afield

These aren't the only day tours available from Dublin. All-day tours leave Dublin to most of Ireland's popular tourist towns and sights. Depending on your trip schedule and budget, it may be worth it for you to take a big day trip to see Giant's Causeway, Cliffs of Moher, or other worthwhile attractions around Ireland. These tours can be booked in advance online from the various companies that offer them.

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Appendix
Dublin Festivals and Holidays 2016

New Year's Day (Jan 1)

Banks are closed, public transport services are reduced, but you knew that already.

Temple Bar Tradfest (Jan 27–31)

Every winter, the Tradfest fires up at venues around City Centre. The featured headline acts are all ticketed, but outdoor stages with up-and-coming talent are free to enjoy (www.templebartrad.com).

St. Patrick's Day Festival (Mar 17–20)

The annual celebration of Ireland's international mascot and patron saint turns Dublin into a cosmopolitan melee. The city will be busy with events for a few days before the holiday, and the party goes all day on the holiday itself. Some paid attractions are free if you are visiting for a festival event like the treasure hunt. The parade is impressive, but get a viewing spot early (www.stpatricksfestival.ie).

Spring Forward (Mar 27)

The Irish clock doesn't always move with North America. Set your Irish clock ahead one hour this weekend.

Easter Weekend (Mar 25–28)

Much of Ireland shuts down for the Easter holiday. From Good Friday to Easter Monday, expect closed banks and businesses and decreased public transport service. Pubs are closed and all alcohol sales are prohibited on Good Friday, so don't plan your Temple Bar stag party that weekend.

The 1916 celebrations reached their climax on Easter Sunday Mar 27, with a reading of the Irish Proclamation (of Independence), laying of a wreath by the President of Ireland, and a parade from Dublin Castle to Parnell Square. More information and the full schedule of events for the rest of the year can be found at the 1916 Centenary celebration website, www.ireland.ie.

May Day (May 2)

Bank holiday.

June Bank Holiday (Jun 6)

Creatively named bank holiday.

City Spectacular (July 8–17)

This annual festival of world-class street performances takes over Merrion Square for a weekend of free (tips encouraged) entertainment. Look for artists from all over the world performing music, dance, magic, and more in the long summer days (www.cityspectacular.com).

Festival of Curiosity (July 21–24)

A number of talks and events covering a wide range of pop science topics designed to get the public engaged with modern science. Check the schedule for events that strike your own curiosity (www.festivalofcuriosity.ie).

August Bank Holiday (Aug 1)

Hey, look! Another bank holiday!

Culture Night (Sep 16)

Throughout the city (and the rest of Ireland), dozens of venues open their doors (or keep them open late) with special cultural events, most of them free. Almost every museum, cathedral, gallery, and theatre host these special events, many of which you can't see for free any other time. Many of these require advance booking, so check the website for the schedule and booking before you leave for Dublin (www.culturenight.ie).

Bram Stoker Festival (Oct 21–24)

Dublin is the hometown of Dracula author Bram Stoker. He was born in Clontarf and attended St. Anne's Church and did much of his writing in Dublin. Every year around Halloween, the city celebrates with a large-scale festival at locations throughout the city. The statues on O'Connell Street (except for Father Mathew) are fitted with capes and glowing red eyes. There are lots of events, free and paid, and almost all of them require advance booking. Check the website for the schedule and to book your events (www.bramstokerfestival.com).

Fall Back (Oct 30)

Clocks go back one hour to winter time. It gets dark early in Dublin from here on.

October Bank Holiday (Oct 31)

Sometimes called "Halloween Holiday."

Science Week (Nov 13–20)

Similar to the Festival of Curiosity, Science Week is a nationwide program of scientific talks and events to get the public more aware of scientific issues and STEM fields in general. Look for free events at museums, libraries, and outdoors for all ages (www.science.ie).

Christmastime in Dublin

Beginning in mid-November, Dublin rolls out its Christmas cheer with lights, markets, and events. If your Dublin visit falls during this festive season, try to catch some of the holiday spirit. Check the schedule of events on Dublin at Christmas (www.dublinatchristmas.ie).

Christmas Weekend (Dec 23–Dec 26)

Christmas Day is an official holiday, as is the day after Christmas (St. Stephen's Day). Because Christmas Day falls on a Sunday, banks will be closed on Monday for Stephen's Day. Services are seriously cut back for much of this whole week, so check the holiday timetables and schedules carefully.

Many more small festivals take place in Dublin almost the year round. An up-to-date calendar of scheduled festivals is available from Visit Dublin (www.visitdublin.com/see_and_do/events/Festivals) and Subscribe Dublin (www.subscribedublin.com).

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Useful (and Fun) Resources

Dublin Event Guide (For Free Events)

A weekly free e-newsletter that collects hundreds of free lectures, galleries, concerts, tours, and festivals all over the city. The website is updated with the next week's events each weekend, so check often. If you care to, you can sign up to receive the Dublin Event Guide as an email each week for free. I use this invaluable resource every week (www.dublineventguide.com).

Visit Dublin and Fáilte Ireland

Official tourist boards of Dublin and Ireland. Visit Dublin keeps a good list of upcoming events and festivals in Dublin while promoting some of the more splurge-y attractions in the city. They also publish a PDF guide with their own budget travel tips and a free series of mp3 guided walking tours and mobile apps (www.visitdublin.com, www.failteireland.com, www.discoverireland.ie).

Heritage Ireland (OPW)

The Office of Public Works operates most of Ireland's parks and monuments, including Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Castle, St. Audeon's Church, Phoenix Park, and out-of-town attractions like Newgrange (Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre) and Trim Castle. Opening hours, admission prices (most are free), and facilities of all OPW sites are on their website (www.heritageireland.ie).

Let's Walk and Talk

Dublin City Council operates this free series of historical walks and tours around the city. Every week, volunteers lead groups on guided walks in various parts of the city. Occasionally, Dublin historian Pat Liddy leads special narrated tours. His tour company charges €10.00 and up for a City Centre walk, so his free tours are very popular with locals. All walks are free and no booking is necessary. Check the website for the current schedule of weekly walks and special tours (Free; www.letswalkandtalk.ie).

Dublin Town

For more general event listings and a free monthly e-magazine, check out Dublin Town. This not-for-profit organization is operated by a team of local business owners and creators who wish to highlight the various shopping, doing, and dining in the city. Their network includes a general event page (www.dublintown.ie), a dining page (www.dineindublin.ie), a fashion page (www.dff.ie), and the Christmas event guide (www.dublinatchristmas.ie).

Le Cool Dublin

The free alternative culture and event e-magazine Le Cool has a Dublin presence. Most events are not free, but worth a check on the week you'll be in Dublin if you're looking for concerts, theater, or art gallery events. They also currently host walking tours with a different theme and route every week (Walks: €15.00, advance booking required; dublin.lecool.com).

Dublin.ie

A more locally focused resource for locating services and entertainment in the city. There is a "Visitors" page with some useful links and periodic updates. You might also try their maps feature built for finding specific government and tourist services in the city (www.dublin.ie).

Dublin Gallery Map

Artsy types will appreciate this free map of art galleries, exhibitions, and events around town. Note the cluster of galleries in Temple Bar as a great starting point (www.dublingallerymap.ie).

Subscribe Dublin

A curated collection of Dublin happenings not specifically highlighting the free stuff. They subscribe to all of the email newsletters for events in the city—so you don't have to. Check in here for what's on in theatre, sports, and festivals (www.subscribedublin.com).

Irish Newspaper Websites

Before your trip, get your contemporary Irish cultural education by checking the headlines and articles at one of Ireland's newspaper websites. The Irish Times (www.irishtimes.ie) and its competitor the Irish Independent (www.independent.ie) compete as the "legitimate" newspapers. Printed on double-sized, horizontally aligned paper, they are referred to as the "Broadsheets." These newspapers exercise much more influence here than American newspapers, which have largely fallen out of news dominance. Radio and television newscasters get their news right from these papers, making the morning newscast sound much like someone reading a newspaper to you aloud.

Ireland also has numerous daily tabloid-sized newspapers with tabloid-quality content and a reputation of being less sophisticated than their more serious broadsheet counterparts...even though the Times and Independent cover their share of celebrity news, especially when a Hollywood star visits Ireland.

Dublin and Irish History Resources

With the 1916 centenary underway this year, you may wish to do some background research on your own. Irish Life and Lore has a great collection of interviews and recordings of family members of the 1916 fighters on both sides. In their own words and in their own voice, take a listen to everyday Irish people sharing their story (www.irishlifeandlore.com).

For a look at some off-beat Dublin history and culture, visit Come Here to Me, a blog maintained by local Dublin enthusiasts. The team digs up photographs, advertisements, and documents to present the story of Dublin from the everyday to the extraordinary (www.comeheretome.com).

The national broadcaster of Ireland maintains an extensive and publically available archive of news and entertainment—both radio and television—dating back to its earliest days. If you want to go down a rabbit hole of curious Irish history as once seen on Irish TV, visit the RTÉ Archives (www.rte.ie/archives).

1916 Centenary Celebrations

Through the year, around the country, Ireland will be celebrating the 100-year anniversary of the 1916 Easter Rising. Keep tabs on the ever-growing schedule of events at the one-stop celebration website, www.ireland.ie.

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Epilogue: A Guide to the Dublin Pub

So you think you're ready for your trip? Made all your arrangements? Got your schedule assembled? Great! Now it's time to prepare for what will probably be your most memorable Dublin experience: the Dublin pub. Remember, wherever you are, always enjoy alcohol safely and responsibly.

The local pub is a very important part of Irish life. The word "pub" itself is a shortening of "public house." Originally, these were neighborhood multipurpose meeting rooms used for nightly discussion, town hall meetings, banquets, music and dancing, and private parties in a time when no one owned a home large enough to host a crowd. Today, you are just as likely to see local residents using their corner pub as a meeting place, a center of neighborhood gossip, and, of course, a comfortable place for that after dinner drink.

While pubs are always welcoming to foreign tourists (and their money), you'll want to show respect to the pub owners and regulars by following local customs and etiquette as much as possible. Things slow down a bit in Irish pubs—and that's a good thing. Take a look at the draught line or whiskey menu and decide what you'd like to order, then step up to the bar and place your order. Have your money ready, as drinks are generally paid for as they are ordered; opening a tab is not the default. Exercise patience, smile, and don't underestimate the power of adding, "...when you can." to the end of your drink order. You're more likely to get friendly service and an invitation to chat with some locals if you aren't demanding and pushy.

Irish beers

Beer on draught (on tap) is served in pint and half-pint sizes. The half-pint is a good choice if you just want a sip or if you want to try everything at the bar, but a full pint is a better value. Note that the half-pint size is usually called a "glass" by locals, so don't ask for "a glass of Guinness" unless you want a half-pint. Best to be specific to avoid confusion. Don't worry about sounding like a tourist, and don't try out your Irish accent in an attempt to blend in—you'll be laughed right out of the pub.

Prices vary from pub to pub and beer to beer. Pubs are required to display prices for their drinks somewhere in the bar, but these displays can be tricky to locate. Don't be afraid to ask about prices before ordering. Also, most pubs don't round off prices to the nearest full euro or 50 cents, expect to see prices like €4.85 and €5.20. Be aware that touristy pubs will have touristy prices, and some pubs raise drink prices incrementally as the night goes on. This practice is legal, even if it seems unfair and abusive to raise prices as people are less and less able to make rational choices.

You'll see pub patrons walking around with branded glasses advertising their brew of choice. Beer distributors provide these unique glasses to pub-owners (known as "publicans") for extra promotion. Each beer's glass has its own unique shape and design—but the serving size will always be the same. The pint in Ireland is 568 milliliters (mL), or about 19 US ounces.

With serving sizes as large as that, it should come as no surprise that many draught beers here are brewed at lower alcohol by volume (ABV) levels than American macro lagers. Guinness and other standard draught beers are served at or near 4.3% ABV, significantly lower than the 5.0–5.5% lagers common in the States. Note that not all beers in Ireland are served below 5% ABV. Pale ales, extra stouts, Belgian beers, and others can creep up over 6%. Be mindful of your limits.

Generally, small neighborhood pubs ("locals") will have on draught one lager, one red ale (usually Smithwick's), one stout (Guinness, Beamish, or Murphy's, depending on the city), and one hard cider. Larger local pubs and any tourist trap in Temple Bar will have a wider selection of Irish, European, and American beers. Craft beer pubs have rotating stocks of Irish and European microbrews alongside the lager, red, stout, and cider standbys.

Carlsberg and Heineken

One or both of these will likely be on tap in even the smallest of Dublin pubs. These are the standard cheap light lagers for much of Europe. If you are normally a North American macro lager drinker (Budweiser, Busch, Coors, Miller, and their light brothers and sisters), one of these will be most familiar to you.

Interestingly, neither of these lagers are traditionally Irish (Carlsberg is Danish and Heineken is Dutch), but they are among the most popular drinks in the country. Look also for their advertisements and sponsorship of athletic events.

Harp Lager

Irish Lager brewed by Guinness. It's neither as widely available nor as popular as the green-labeled Continental imports Carlsberg and Heineken. Guinness seems to know where their bread is buttered, and most of their promotion budget goes to their classic stout.

Kilkenny Cream Ale

Cream ales have increased in popularity recently. Kilkenny and other cream ales are light, on the sweet side, and carbonated with the same mix of carbon dioxide and nitrogen that gives Guinness its characteristic creamy head (see below).

Smithwick's Irish Ale

Many pubs offer Smithwick's as their standard red or amber ale. Before you order, be advised that the pronunciation is SMIT-icks. Hard TH and no W in your pronunciation please. Reds and ambers are known for a sweet caramel-like taste, although Smithwick's isn't overly sweet. A good intermediate on your way to stouts if you aren't ready to dive right into the black.

Look at the tap handle carefully, as Smithwick's also makes a...

Pale ale

Pale ales are the hoppy beers quickly becoming more popular in America, especially among microbrew fans. Traditionally, IPA (India Pale Ale) beers are made with English hops and yeast while APA (American Pale Ale) beers are made with fruity, floral American hops. Generally, pale ales will have a higher level of alcohol and more of a bittersweet kick than lagers, reds, and stouts. O'Hara's is Ireland's largest craft brewery, and their pale ale is likely to be on tap in any decent-sized pub.

Guinness

The granddaddy of 'em all, the one, the only Guinness. This dark elixir is sold all over town and all over the world in great gouts every day. Stouts and porters are the dark beers that everyone associates with Ireland. While Guinness isn't the only one (or the best one, in the opinion of many), it is easy to find and has a very approachable taste.

When you order a Guinness, be prepared to wait. A pint of Guinness takes time to pour, and any good pub will be pouring pints to order. (I like to step back from the bar to let other patrons get their orders in while I watch the bartender work his or her black stout magic.) If you watch carefully, you'll see the bartender first pull the handle toward him/herself. The tap will hiss as the beer/gas mix is pumped through an agitator, which rips the tiny gas bubbles out of suspension and into a foamy cascade. When the glass is about 2/3 full, the bartender will set it on a special resting rail to let the surge settle. Guinness and some other beers are carbonated not with pure carbon dioxide (as are most canned, bottled, and kegged beers), but with a mix of nitrogen and carbon dioxide. This unique gas mix creates the tiny bubbles that make the head so thick and creamy.

Settling surge

After a minute or two, the drink will have settled and the bartender can finish the pour. Watch carefully, this time the bartender will push the handle away from him/herself. This tops up the glass with un-agitated beer, leaving the proper cap of nice, creamy foam for you to enjoy. If you're in a touristy mega-pub, bartenders may skimp on the proper pour technique to get pints out to clueless tourists as quickly as they can. If this is the case, you might want to find another pub—unless you are really enjoying the faux-traditional music blasting from the speakers at 11 a.m.

Go ahead, take a look. Hold it to a light. See the color? It's deep red, not black as universally believed. Have a smell. It should smell roasted and a bit sweet. Now, finally, have that first taste. It should be balanced but just a bit sweet. There should be more of that roasted coffee/chocolate taste and a thick mouth feel. After swallowing, don't be surprised if you feel an immediate urge to take another drink, and another...

My friend Cal at Guinness Storehouse gave me some tasting tips that have helped me enjoy the good stuff even more. Make sure your first drink is a healthy swig—getting a good dose of foam and beer. Many first-timers tentatively sip their Guinness, getting mostly gassy foam in the taste, which reads as too bitter on the tongue. After the swallow, exhale through the nose to experience the pleasant hop and roasted grain aromas not apparent in the nose up front.

Beamish

The main Irish competitor to Guinness stout. It isn't really much of a contest, Guinness being the international branding juggernaut that it is. Beamish is made in Cork, Ireland's second-largest city (or Ireland's other capital, if you ask a Cork native). Beamish Stout is served much like Guinness, and the flavor is a bit on the dry side. In many pubs, Beamish is priced slightly cheaper than Guinness.

Irish craft brews

Many larger pubs will serve beers made by smaller Irish breweries. These microbreweries make unique and tasty beers in a wide range of styles for a wide range of tastes. Pints and bottles of microbrew tend to cost a bit more than the big boys on the tap handle.

Carrig and 5 Lamps craft beers

Most microbrewers produce one or more beers in each of the standard popular styles: lager, pale ale, red/amber, and stout. After trying the obligatory Irish classics like Guinness, take a chance on one of these craft beers. It just might knock your socks off. Some great local labels to look for: The 5 Lamps from Dublin, Wicklow Wolf from Bray, O'Hara's from Co. Carlow, Carrig from Co. Leitrim, The White Hag from Sligo, and the Porterhouse line made in Bray and available at their City Centre brewpubs.

Cask ales

Some craft beer pubs (like Porterhouse on Parliament Street) serve a small selection of beers on cask. Cask ales harken back to the earliest days of the pub, before the days of electric beer pumps, force carbonation, and refrigeration. Ales were naturally carbonated with yeast in an airtight barrel, or cask. These casks would be transported fresh to the pubs, where they would be loaded into the cool cellar. The casks were tapped and pumped from the cellar to the taproom by hand.

Today, this tradition lives on in a few Irish and English pubs. Microbreweries will ship some of their beers in casks, and they will be pumped up from the cellar into the glass with long-handled levers. These beers, according to tradition, are served at a warmer temperature and a lower carbonation level than their refrigerated and force-carbonated draught counterparts. If warm and flat beer doesn't sound appealing to you, you are under no obligation to try these historically accurate brews, but you may be surprised when you taste a hoppy ale at cellar temperature. Wine buffs know how important serving temperature is to experience wine styles correctly, and these ales are no different.

As a final nudge to get you on the cask ale bandwagon, a pint of ale from the cask is usually cheaper than the same pint on draught. This is because refrigeration and carbonation costs are lower and a naturally carbonated cask, once tapped, must be used quickly.

Cider

You will see hard cider on tap in almost every pub in Ireland. While craft cider is just now regaining popularity in the States after years of obscurity, fermented apple beverages have been a staple in Ireland for a long time. The most common name on the tap handle will be Bulmer's. Interestingly, this company can only use the "Bulmer's" name inside the Republic of Ireland. Any exported cider (including to Northern Ireland) is branded with the name "Magner's," which is also available in Europe and North America—maybe you've had Irish cider without knowing it!

Bulmer's is quite sweet, rivalling the sweetness of sparkling apple juice from concentrate at the American supermarket. If going through a round of Irish drink tasting, try a cider first. Before moving on to the beers, try cleansing the palette with water, time, greasy food, or all three.

FUN FACT: off-brand cider is also often the cheapest drink at the off license (liquor store) per unit of alcohol. As such, you may encounter vagrants and teenagers pulling from brown-bagged 500 mL cans of plain, dry cider. Try to resist joining them on the street, but follow their lead if you're only seeking a cheap buzz.

A word on whiskey

The other national drink of Ireland. Whiskey (note the spelling with an E) is important for Ireland historically, socially, and economically. The craft of distilling was mastered here centuries ago by monks, and the practice has been developing and improving ever since. The English word "whiskey" comes from the Irish name for the stuff, uisce beatha ("ISH-ga BAH-ha"), which means literally, "water of life." It was translated into Irish from the Latin aqua vitae by those ancient monastic distillers. Muhammad Ali said in a promo piece for a fight in Croke Park in 1972, "Whiskey is such a big thing here in Ireland that they even go so far as to call it 'the water of life.' Man, that's crazy!"

In the pub, you will likely have your choice of Irish whiskey and Scotch whisky (no E). Irish whiskeys are traditionally made of unsmoked barley and triple distilled for a cleaner spirit going in for barrel aging. Scotch whisky is made with peat-smoked grains and cannot be triple distilled for fear of eliminating the smoke flavor.

Whiskey is best enjoyed with friends and family

The most common Irish whiskies you will see are familiar labels like Jameson, Paddy, and Bushmills. Well-stocked pubs will have whiskies from many more (smaller) operations. These distilleries make whiskies of different ages and characters. Some whiskey terms you may encounter:

Pot Still—Whiskey made of malted and unmalted barley and distilled in a traditional copper still. Many Irish whiskey distilleries produce a pot still or single pot still as part of their line.

Single Malt—Whiskey made of only malted barley, and not mixed with any other spirits.

Blended Whiskey—A mix of different spirits, possibly made from different grains or methods of distilling. While many dismiss all "blendeds" as cheap and mass-produced, this isn't necessarily true. Master distillers and blenders use different spirits and ratios to create new and interesting flavors not normally possible without this mixing process.

Poitín/Poteen—An Irish-language word for what Americans would call "moonshine," or illegally produced spirits made in home stills to avoid the tax man. While homemade poteen is still made (and still illegal) in Ireland, some distilleries are producing a legal version of this naughty Irish tradition—in pub strength and very potent "mountain strength." Handle with caution, and keep away from open flames.

Thanks to my friend Niall McCormack for a great introductory primer on whiskey for clueless Americans.

Buying rounds

Irish pub traditions are old, sacred, and passed down through generations. Hospitality and inclusion are not only good for a publican's business, but practically an unwritten Irish law. Expect to be welcomed as a visitor to any pub in the country, even if you are clearly a clueless tourist.

Part of the tradition of friendship and hospitality in Irish pubs is the practice of buying rounds. North Americans might be in the habit of taking turns buying drinks for the table, but there are some small but important differences to this custom in Ireland. In many Irish drinking groups, whoever is going to the bar is expected to buy (or offer to buy) drinks for anyone at the table who needs one, without the specific expectation of a reciprocal drink that night. Whoever finishes the next drink gets up and does the same. This practice is common even if there are strangers or new friends included at the table. Each person, when his or her drink is empty, is silently expected to get up and make the offer.

Following this custom, someone might have two drinks in a night without paying for any, while others might buy a round of eight drinks and only have two. The general thinking seems to be that if everyone always plays by the same rules all the time, things will even out in the end.

If you are invited to sit at a table with a group of locals to share drinks and stories, you may be silently invited into this round-buying custom. If you are on a tight budget and can't afford a round for your table, you can tacitly opt out of the game by politely declining a drink whenever you are offered one and discreetly getting another for yourself on a trumped-up trip to the bathroom. They'll know you are dodging the game, but they should be polite enough not to call you out on it.

Pub grub

Lunches and dinners are traditionally served at most pubs. The standard and traditional pub grub comes from a time when blue-collar workers could come to the pub for a cheap, hot lunch. These meals were thus designed to be inexpensive, filling, and easily prepared in large quantities. This tradition lives on somewhat in the pub carvery lunch.

You'll see the word "carvery" on the marquee signs of many pubs in Ireland, usually followed by the price. Standard carvery lunch fare will be some kind of roasted meat, sliced to order and served with mashed or boiled potatoes and some kind of boiled or steamed vegetable. These are dished out cafeteria style from steam trays and heat lamps. Some fancy carveries will include a salad bar or other high-class food, but meat, spuds, and veg is far more common.

A number of larger pubs and suburban pub/grills will also have a food menu. At these pubs you can generally find fish and chips, beef and Guinness pie, Irish stew, curry, and pizza and pasta dishes. The quality and price of these meals will vary depending on the pub. The touristy pubs serve touristy-quality food—approachable, but nothing special. Expect the kitchen of most pubs to have limited hours unless it is billed as a bar and grill or restaurant.

Irish trad music

The old public house wasn't all sitting and drinking, and in the time before widescreen televisions and live sports broadcasts, live traditional ("trad") music was the entertainment of choice. Local musicians would gather at a pub to perform ad lib sets of traditional songs, much like an American jazz jam. A random gathering of musicians playing an unplanned set in a pub is called a "session," or "sesh." Maybe not surprisingly, the word "sesh" also refers to a night of heavy binge drinking. Many Dublin "trad" pubs have sessions on certain nights of the week, usually starting around 21:00 or 21:30. Near City Centre, check the schedule at Cobblestone in Smithfield (my favorite), McNeill's on Capel Street, and Donoghue's on Merrion Row near St. Stephen's Green.

In addition to the more authentic random sessions, many touristy pubs hire established trad bands to perform scheduled sessions that are more like a demonstration of trad music for beginners. These performances are not likely to be anything like what you will see in a real session, but are very entertaining, informative, and audience-inclusive. They are designed for the entertainment and education of visitors, after all. These bands explain to the audience the meaning and popularity of most of the standard repertoire and demonstrate the sound, function, and history of each of the traditional instruments.

Finding your pub

Pubs have not been immune to changing times and changing trends. Many tourists get to Dublin looking for a real Irish pub, and are disappointed with what they find. The images of battered wooden tables with women in green dresses winking at lads in tweed and suspenders are mostly a memory today.

Modern Irish pubs are beginning to look more and more like bar and grill restaurants, especially those in the suburbs. Many small pubs with no room for a kitchen in City Centre are still modernizing their look and feel to match the tastes of the younger, more cosmopolitan population of today's Ireland. When you find a potential candidate, pop in and look around. If you don't like the atmosphere, move along to another pub. Just remember, every pub in Ireland is an Irish pub, so don't let your preconceived images of the pub experience taint your visit. You can have a grand time in any Dublin local.

If you simply must see a real Irish pub, there is no shortage of these carefully constructed fairytale pubs in Temple Bar and other touristy areas of City Centre. The tables are wood, the crowds are lively (but rarely Irish), and trad music will be booming all day and all night.

The pub experience should not be missed, wherever your Irish travels take you. Don't be threatened by pubs full of noisy locals, go in and enjoy! If it's early in the day or you don't drink alcohol, all pubs serve soda, coffee, and hot tea, often at cheaper-than-coffee-shop prices.

Now, get yourself to Dublin and have a great trip!

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Acknowledgements

First, I have to thank my wife Sara, the reason I've been able to travel the world and live the exciting and exotic life of an unemployed trailing house husband, or the "man of leisure" or "kept man" as they call me here in Ireland. My family and friends, on two continents, have given me the continued support and love that has kept me from feeling any more homesick than just those little nostalgic pangs. Y'know, those warm fuzzy feelings that arise when you only miss the good stuff without remembering the bad?

Those who have read and responded to my blog posts, you all have kept me motivated. First to keep writing blog content, then to finish this book. Without you, I would have let the blog lapse while I played old video games all day. Cheers go to Stamen Designs (www.maps.stamen.com) and Open Street Map (www.openstreetmap.org) for their open license map content, without which we'd all be lost. Dublin Event Guide must also be given a nod. Joerg works tirelessly each week to give myself and all other Dublin residents a rich schedule of free diversions from which to choose. The newsletter is always the first thing I check when I plan my week (www.dublineventguide.com). My friend Prudence, The Queen of Free from Control Your Own Bank Balance (www.controlyourownbankbalance.com) for a long list of insider thrifty tips from a longtime frugal Dubliner. For my beginner's whiskey education, Niall McCormack. My fellow American expat in Dublin Michael Tisdale for showing me around the Docklands. Dublin historian Pat Liddy and Dublin City Council's Let's Walk and Talk program (www.letswalkandtalk.ie) for inspiring and entertaining insider stories about many of Dublin's lesser-known landmarks. Scott Petoff at Subscribe Dublin for website tips and maintaining a great list of Dublin festivals and events from which I could "borrow" many of the festivals for this book's calendar (www.subscrubedublin.com). For compressing my maps and images for use in this compact eBook, I use the free services of TinyPNG (www.tinypng.com) and Bulk Resize Photos (www.bulkresizephotos.com).

The following for providing review tours and interviews for the book, website, and podcast: The Irish Whiskey Museum (www.irishwhiskeymuseum.ie), Teeling Whiskey Distillery (www.teelingwhiskey.com), Old Jameson Distillery (www.jamesonwhiskey.com), Viking Splash Tours (www.vikingsplash.com), Guinness Storehouse (www.guinness-storehouse.com), Experience Gaelic Games (www.experiencegaelicgames.com), Dublin CityScape Tours (www.cityscapetours.ie), Number Twenty-Nine Georgian House (www.numbertwentynine.ie), Irish Rock 'N' Roll Museum Experience (irishrocknrollmuseum.com), Mary Gibbons Newgrange Tours (www.newgrangetours.com), Evonne Ferguson and the Contemporary Music Centre (www.cmc.ie), and Wild Wicklow Tours (www.wildwicklow.ie).

Finally, my volunteer editors, who so generously gave their time and expertise to help with the daunting task of copy editing this book. Without the help of so many eyes scanning these pages for errors and poorly worded paragraphs, it would not be the work it is today. Sara Hanson, Carolla B, Karl, Jason L. Baker, Scott Palmer, Rosebud, Anne Reiva, Jen Reiva, Matt Haxton, Anne Canaveera, Trevor O'Brien, Rita Lupkes, Paul Mullally, Kent Eiler, and Keri Hanson—thank you all so, so much!
About the Author

Photo: Joey Wallis

Cory Hanson grew up in Iowa, where he earned a Bachelor's Degree in Secondary Instrumental Music Education at a small liberal arts college. He worked for six years as a public school band director before moving to Dublin with his wife in 2013. He first took up writing as a pastime, then as a professional pursuit. In addition to writing, he also enjoys outdoor sports and retro video games.

Visit Cory's website and blog: www.fivesuitcases.com

Follow Cory on Twitter: www.twitter.com/hansoncory1

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