on this episode of hands on cars Kevin
bus the set sled and visit the AAC a
museum in hershey pennsylvania
yeah
hey guys kevin gates for hands-on cars
this is project said slit and it's
painted for the most part it's been
sanded and buffed and we've used surface
correction techniques but we wanted to
show you more of that I want to pass on
some really strong very valuable and
important information on surface
correction techniques
it's obvious that this car has been
sanded and buffed the panels are very
flat the gloss is fantastic the image
quality is very good I'm very proud of
it
however a trained seal can buff a flat
panel what I wanted to show you was the
subtle nuances of curved parts big
panels
not so much of a problem here is the
gold take a look at the front bumper
cover known as a front fascia fancy word
for a while front bumper cover this is
anything but flat
there's all kinds of crazy shapes
there's notes crannies valleys peaks
edges all of these her danger zones and
there's a technique to rubbing something
out like this because as important as it
is to get the flat part shiny and smooth
it's equally as important to get the
curvy sexy parts shiny and smooth
otherwise it doesn't match
now this might look shiny on video and
it is shiny but it's not the same
we got to have our surface match and
here's where you start now to do this
job we're going to be using a
combination of eastwood sandpapers and
the norton liquid ice buffing system
will get to the norton system later but
I wanted to show you these sandpapers
these come in convenient packs of 6
sheets so you don't have to buy a whole
expensive sleeve of paper and they range
from 600 grit all the way up to 2000 and
then we go to a 3000 tries act paper
that tries act is really interesting
technology the grid on the paper itself
well it it's triangular shape that's
where it gets its name and it's got a
bit of a foam backing to it so it makes
it very forgiving and very fine very
precise i almost put a gloss into it but
the beauty of this is that it makes it
polish so much faster and so much easier
it's a perfect final stage to just about
any color sanding and buffing project
now we're using water
these are winter drive papers water is
just kind of what you do with wet
sanding and buffing all that made a lot
of sense
so you see
a mixing Cup with water in it and a
couple of drops of dishwashing liquid
that helps lubricate the paper it helps
shed of the slurry and it just makes a
nicer job of sanding and buffing now the
truth is we've got grits from 600 to
3000 grit we don't need all of this
we have a very smooth surface thanks to
the conquerors pro to spray gun in the
East would paint products so we're going
to start at 1500 grit go to 2000 grit
and then finding 3000 grit will show you
all of those steps the first step is to
soak your paper
now technically is it required
I don't know does it make the paper last
longer yes it does
there's a shoot of 1500 i'm going to go
ahead and spree soak all of my paper
the biggest thing the pre-soaking the
paper does and you can see this in
action on the patron location color
sanding and buffing dve is that when you
fold your paper for instance when it's
dry
he folded increase it sometimes you
create a rough edge with it wet never
happens
the tribes act well we'll deal with that
later I'm folding my paper into thirds
which has a couple of things that gives
me a smaller piece of paper to work with
and it allows me something to work in a
bit of traction with my fingertip pads
on the surface
microfiber holds the water nicely make
sure you got enough clear coat on the
panel to sand in the first place
I've got three wet coats on Zed sled and
I know I've got enough on the panel so i
won't sand through but you still need to
be careful mostly on the edges and Peaks
all I'm after is leveling the surface
you want to be careful that you don't
get your sandpaper in a place that your
buffer won't be able to follow
now one of my rules is never finger sand
never use your hand to send except for
when you've got a surface like this
I'm always making sure I've got plenty
of lubrication under the paper
now we can read our surface see where we
still have to say that these areas right
in here obviously
well we've got a little more sanding to
do because that's unsanded and that's
well yes and no
so i should mention that you have to
stop standing at some point so once your
surface is flat
well you're kind of done and you're
ready for the next step of paper and
call crazy
the base color as then you gotta repaint
that's never fun
yeah
in case you're wondering this white
slurry that's coming up
that means that you're standing on a
clear coated surface it will be white
regardless of the color because you're
saying the clear and that's what's
coming up now in these areas here the
top of this patient right here where I
haven't send it I'm not going to there's
almost no paint on that edge so I'm
purposely avoiding that edge places like
this right here
well there's a little bit of texture
showing through it's just a little bit
more sanding that now if you've got more
than one panel to do at one time which
most people do i recommend treating it
like an assembly line
I'm done with 1500 on my front fascia
let's move over to the back
stay on the same grip it helps me keep
track again this is a very smooth
surface there's almost no trash in it
because we clean the heck out of it and
we had a nice clean booth environment
so really we're just after surface
correction smoothing it down so 1500 on
this is going to be perfect
another thing that using your paper
soaking wet and pre-soaking it does is
it makes it last forever
I'm not putting down very much effort
I'm just gliding the paper over the top
of the surface
it doesn't take a whole lot especially
with fresh clear to level it out really
make it smooth
once i see a little bit of white slurry
coming up it's time to check
you can see quite well where I've sanded
and more importantly where I have to pay
close attention here i have not sanded
this peak edge and I'm not going to you
don't want to there's not enough to
clear coat on that surface to
effectively withstand that buffer after
it's been sanded you want to leave those
pure the gloss won't reflect in it
you'll never know the difference
leave those areas alone here's a
technique that i can show you on the top
edge here
ok so my thumb well my thumb is my
sanding pad
so we're going to do a dry run here look
where my thumb is going it's exactly
where I want to sand this area is
visible the tail light doesn't quite
cover it so I want to make sure that
there's no discrepancy in this surface
and that surface so I'm kind of
practicing just to see where my thumb is
going to go
so now that i know now i could take my
sandpaper
effectively surface that area down
that's what we're doing were surfacing
its surface correction all those guys
have said you don't need to buff a paint
job
it probably never popped one out and see
the benefit of doing that type of work
with a closer look
I've achieved my goal of staying off of
that piqued edge and leveling what I
want to level and creating the
environment that's going to give me the
illusion that i have a dip this stuff in
glass
that's what we're after a machined
corrected surface so that should take
care of the 1500 grid
so now that we don't have 1500 grit I'm
going to take care of my 1500 paper
there's lots of life left in this paper
so i'm going to set it down here
let it dry out on a microfiber and it's
ready to sand another day
and since we pre-soaked are 2000 grit
paper
it's ready for me to fold it into thirds
without the worry of creating a crease
that can profile or put a scratch on my
surface that I don't want
so basically two thousand you sand over
top of what you said it with 1500 grip
second verse same as the first two
thousand red rock and roll baby
typically the second stage with a
fighter grip doesn't take as long as the
initial great does so 2000 is not going
to take us long to surface down as your
1500 it because you're not cutting that
ultra hard surface cutting well into the
resin base
technically that is offered you less
resistance
you can stay off those edges it's just
going to break your heart you have a
sand through which means a repaint or
touch up paint some other kind of paint
we're sanding we're not painting
ok
and the tries act like i said has a bit
of a 4-2 it so it's very very forgiving
if you are sending over pinked edges
besides the fact that it's 3000 grit
thousand it's very very fine and it goes
a long way in the last two forty four
evers especially if you take care of it
and rinse it out after use
so with all that considered i'm cutting
line in half and using this as my
sanding pad
I don't have to pre-soak the try Zak
because well it kind of takes its own
water supply on and you can fold it and
bend it anyway and also case you're
wondering why I'm only doing half of the
fascia
I want to show you the difference
between sanded and buffed and not sanded
and buffed both look good one just looks
better with the 3000 grit
typically i run over in about four times
treat every panel for every chunk of a
panel like a zone
that's twice make my way back on three
times
and up four times like the promise for
good effort to move on to the next part
you can see how beautifully this paper
even paper how beautifully it conforms
to these inner crevices surfaces
unless you don't you don't know what i'm
talking about but you can feel the
resistance under your fingertips and you
can kind of tell just by feel after a
little while when something sent
all these areas that we spend so much
time avoiding all the peak edges
well the 3000 with tries act all it's
doing is getting rid of a layer of
sanding scratches is profiling almost
nothing it's getting rid of almost no
clear coat so I am avoiding those Peaks
but i'm not really being careful i don't
have to if you take just a little bit of
time and clean out your sandpaper and
your try Zak pads are going to be
perfect
the next time you reach form and ready
to use again you get so much more life
out of them
you guys have heard me talk about the
norton liquid ice system before and
basically it's a very very simple system
that works extremely well I use it all
the time
as a matter of fact that color sanding
and buffing DVD by education features
this system
it's a single compound with multiple
paths you start out with a wool pad to
cut your sanding scratches your
secondary pad is a blue pad which is a
coarse grit but it still refines the
scratches at the wool pad put in it and
further refined and we finish the
surface followed by a final step of a
very fine grade foam pad last step the
big machine we're going to use it is the
eastwood buffer
the thing I like about this the most is
the soft start listen
it's a soft start is going to start
slowly is variable speed
now that you've never bought that fast
but it's nice to know that you've got
some arse to work with and if you want
to build a little heat into the surface
but bottom line is this machine works
very well one of the things I wanted to
talk to you about was we're not to use
this machine and that's what this one
comes in handy this three-inch buffer
from eastwood same liquidize compound
the same three steps wall course foam
and fine form to finish up
it's a very small buffing pad but the
biggest difference is that you've got a
nice rolled edge in which to get inside
tight areas to where you are not going
to dig in your not going to damage and
you've got a very controllable piece of
equipment here to get into cities in all
those little crevices and cracks and
nooks and you're not going to mess up
now obviously it stands to reason that
you can use a big polishing surface like
this on a flat area
even these guys here you can bring it
around but once you start to get inside
a cold like that
well at 1500 rpm you're going to pull
the paint off the edges not what you
want and that's where this guy comes in
and you can take it anywhere you want to
go you can polish in these areas here
and not break your own heart
beautiful thing yes i'm wearing an apron
no I'm not cooking
don't even talk to me ok so we've got an
area about the size of a quarter on the
big flat surface
you can always put more on start with
about that size
I like to smoosh it around a little bit
buffer RPM can vary but you always want
to start out slow
typically I'm gonna buff around 1400 -
1600 RPM but if I'm in a tight spot or
around a fragile edge
I will slow down the important thing to
remember is not to drive up this builds
heat and that can roll the clear right
off of an edge
I can check the surface with a clean
microfiber and I'm happy with that
that took seconds to bring up the gloss
got a little bit of haze around the
edges here but just brought it up
quickly that's the power that try Zak
that's beautiful
so give it a second application and move
on
yeah
when the surface starts to look like
it's getting dry what is getting dry
time to use a little more compound
so 99% of air tools operate in a
clockwise manner
here's where you can outsmart your tools
and your paint this is going to spin
that direction you want the buffer
rolling off the edge of the panel
so you're going to operate like this and
that way it doesn't go against the sharp
edge that we've avoided so carefully
it rolls off the end of it and you
really lessen the chance that you can
roll the pain up or burn through that
edge like so
yeah
with both large and small diameter of
the blue pad you can still cut some of
the sanding scratches that the wool pad
didn't quite get and it further refines
the surface making it a second stage out
of three
yeah
now the last stage is really not very
time consuming at all
you're just kind of getting rid of a
little bit of haze that might be left
over in some corners and the white pad
is very very soft
it's a polishing pad instead of a
cutting pad if that makes sense
we switch to hear the tool because we're
smarter than that hand tools we are
now you notice I've left a little bit of
haze right here
that's not an accident I never drive up
I always leave a little bit of fill on
there and that's where this stuff comes
in this is a clean up and a detail spray
from norton and its body shop safe its
non-silicon and it's the next step in
cleaning off your panel and really
getting a good look
and what's going on
and I know you've got microfibers if you
don't you can get them from the dollar
store
guess how much they cost that's right
my daughter it's a must-have tool just
is as you're polishing this step out
you can look you can watch you can see
the reflections you can see what you
missed
still gotta work on what you're happy
now I'm real happy with what we've done
here i can see a huge difference and i
want to give you a closer look here look
at the quality the reflection
look at the distinctness of image is
called do I in our industry at the
quality of the reflection
you can see what was a very smooth
finish laid down by the concourse pro
spray gun and against this polished and
machine surface
it's a night and day difference
especially on a black vehicle hands on
cars is brought to you by the eastwood
company when you're restoring a car
truck or motorcycle Eastwood has
everything you need to do the job right
eastwood since 1978
yeah
yeah
there's so much to see here all kinds of
beautiful pre-war cars all restored some
original back from one at a time when it
was true
coach builders around speaking of coach
builders this is actually in 1924 Rio
and it is a funeral coach and people are
dying to get in this ride is a matter of
fact they were doing it with a little
bit of a buzz because this thing was
actually converted to haul liquor
illegally during Prohibition
this is awesome it's a beautiful
represented piece of history but that's
not what we're here for
there's an indian display downstairs we
gotta go check out
yeah
the very first indian motorcycle
prototype was built in nineteen oh one
they made six bikes that year so it's
great to see fully restored versions but
what really likes me up
are these unrestored original the
nineteen oh seven indian 1906 Indian
camelback these are touched only by time
this is a restoration manual wrapped up
in a motorcycle and the fact that
nobody's ever had these apart
it's just awesome to see but one of the
coolest things we've seen here is this
Briggs & Stratton motor wheel check this
thing out
briggs & stratton may best be known as a
manufacturer of quality engines for lawn
mowers and mini bikes but in the early
20th century they were manufacturer of
automotive accessories and made a large
investment in their company to diversify
into production vehicles they purchased
the rights to a buckboard type vehicle
called the Smith motor wheel and then
increase its engine output by doubling
it from one to two horsepower
Wow and then renamed it the briggs &
stratton flyer
this machine was produced from nineteen
19 - 19 23 and this model j player had a
base price of $175 about the cost of a
monthly starbucks bill
it's just a really cool machine i love
the fenders and little gas tank and the
fan to cool it
and how about the bucket seats and all
the wood and get this when you start the
engine
the drive wheel is always running the
shifter is really a shifter
it just simply as a lever that lifts the
rear drive wheels off the ground for
neutral and puts it on the ground to go
kind of like a engineered burn out
because when the engine is running the
drive wheel is always turning so you
might be wondering how it stops well
when you push the brake pedal it presses
the fender against the tire
kinda like getting your foot caught in
the spokes and we all know that that can
be a tad dramatic these motor wheels
were actually considered roadworthy back
then
now here's the beauty and 1906 Indian
camelback not camel toe camel back
indian produced their first motorcycle
in nineteen old one and had begun
production by 19 03 by 1906 they were
able to produce 1698 of these camelback
motorcycles in a year at the cost of 210
dollars each to the customers
the name camelback wasn't actually the
official name of this bike it was
actually a nickname
given to eight years later because of
the hot fuel tank behind the seat
it has a diamond frame like those used
on bicycles but this model is a chain
drive
unlike many early bikes which use
leather drive belts
this single cylinder engine was claimed
to have put out two and a half
horsepower while weighing only 115
pounds which means it could push you
along it 50 miles an hour pretty
impressive back then
now let's check out some of the other
bikes in this cool exhibit now the heart
of Indian motorcycles is its race
heritage these things were born to run
in this 28 hill climber
well the guy riding this thing had to
have serious cojones
check it out there's no shocks there's
no brakes
it's a v-twin flathead engine that all
that's going to do is propel somebody
forward up a hill
no breaks no shocks it takes it takes a
real man to ride that sucker up the hill
now a lot of people don't know and what
I didn't know until I came here is that
Indian was right there alongside g and
harley davidson helping turn the tide in
World War two but out of these bikes
this is the one that got my attention it
has skis
why does it have skis I don't know their
outriggers it's got a big knobby rear
tire obviously it's meant to propel this
motorcycle in a freaking snowdrift I
grew up in Canada
I've never seen this my guess is it
coming home from a pub one night if you
go into a snowbank so help me keep
upright but wow what an interesting
piece of history that is that's wacky
and there's tons of stuff to see here
and they're constantly changing the
display so you never see the same thing
twice you owe it to yourself to come to
the AAC a museum here in hershey
pennsylvania for us we've seen enough i
can t is time to go back get back to
work on the camaro
after one more scene of the movie are
you kidding
well I hope we've given you a little bit
of insight as to what it takes to go
from a nice-looking daily driver right
out of the spray gun to a possibly
award-winning show car finished that you
can do in your garage
this is a bit of a learning curve but
it's not much go to eastwood.com
subscribe to the Jets led projects and
our YouTube channel go to the tech
support we've got tons of videos showing
you how to do this stuff
how to do the job right that's our model
it is to it so thanks for watching hands
on cars
thank you for watching the progress of
project said sled and I can't wait to
show you how much how much but you can
have building your own car like this
oh it's bring it back we're getting
closer see you next time
yeah
