This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV.
I'm going to show you how to easily make your
photos look like antique oil paintings.
This is an update of tutorials I've done on
this subject.
This tutorial is quicker and more effective.
Open a photo that you'd like to use for this project.
In keeping with the theme of antiquity, the
end result will look best if your photo doesn't
include any images that could question its age.
In other words, just don't include any modern
objects or modern clothing.
The filter setting amounts I'll be using in
this tutorial are for images that have a resolution
of 150 pixels per inch.
To check your image's resolution, go to Image
and Image Size.
If it's not 150 pixels per inch, just type it in.
The Width and Height will either decrease
or increase, depending on whether you decreased
or increased its resolution.
Feel free to make its width and height any
size you like.
Make sure the chain-link is active, so you'll
only have to type into one of the fields to
keep its aspect ratio intact.
Open the texture I provided.
Its link is in my video's description or project
files.
All antique oil paintings have a certain degree
of surface cracks that appear over time.
This fine pattern of dense cracking is known
as "craquelure ".
We'll make the texture into a pattern, which we'll apply over our painting.
Go to Edit and "Define Pattern".
Then, click OK or press Enter or Return.
Open back your photo.
Click the New Layer icon to make a new layer.
We'll fill the empty layer with the texture pattern.
But first, we have to fill it with a color
in order to fill it with the pattern.
Check your foreground and background colors.
If you press Alt or Option + Delete, it'll
fill with the foreground color.
If you press Ctrl or Cmd + Delete, it'll fill
with the background color.
Double-click the top layer to open its Layer Style window.
Click "Pattern Overlay".
If it fills with a pattern other than the
craquelure texture, open your list of patterns
and scroll to the bottom.
It'll be there.
Just click it to fill your image.
You can adjust the size of the cracks by scaling
it down or up.
I'll keep it at 100%.
Right-click or secondary-click on an empty
area of the layer and click "Rasterize Layer Style".
This will allow us to change our texture's
Blend Mode later.
Hide the texture and make the photo active.
We'll convert it into a Smart Object, so we
can modify it non-destructively.
To do this, click the icon at the upper right
and click "Convert to Smart Object".
Let's zoom into our image, so we can get a
closer look at it.
Press "z" on your keyboard to open the Zoom
Tool and drag it over a small area.
To move your image within the screen press
and hold the Space bar as you drag it.
Go to Filter, Stylize and Oil Paint.
If your Photoshop version is CC 2014 or CC
2015, there’s no oil paint filter, however,
I did a tutorial showing how to find & install
an oil paint plug-in for FREE!
This plug-in is unfortunately not available
for Macs.
The link for the tutorial in is in my video's
description.
If you do see the oil paint filter, but it's
grayed out, go to Image, Mode and make sure
RGB color is checked, as well as 8 bits per Channel.
If it's still greyed out, go to Edit, Preferences
and Performance.
Make sure "Use Graphics Processor" is checked.
Click "Advanced Settings" and make sure the
top two are checked.
In Macs, make sure "Use Native Operating System
GPU Acceleration" is checked.
I'm using these setting amounts, but feel
free to experiment with them for your image.
The "Stylization" adjusts the style of the
strokes, ranging from a smear look at 0 to
smooth strokes at 10.
I’ll make it 1.
The "Cleanliness" adjusts the length of the
strokes, ranging from shortest & choppiest
at 0 to longest & fluid at 10.
I’ll make it 5.
The "Scale" adjusts the relief or apparent
thickness of the paint, moving from a thin
coat at 0 to thick paint gobs at 10.
I’ll make it 1.
The "Bristle Detail" adjusts how much of the
paintbrush-hair indentation is apparent, moving
from soft at 0 to leaving strong grooves at
10.
I’ll keep it at 10.
The Lighting angle adjusts the incidence angle
of the light and the "Shine" adjusts the brightness
of the light source and the amount of bounce
off the paint’s surface.
I’ll make it zero point five.
Next, we'll sharpen the edges.
Before we do, let's zoom back out by pressing Ctrl or Cmd and the minus key on our keyboard a few times.
You could also press Ctrl or Cmd + 0 to fit
it back onto your screen.
Go to Filter, Sharpen and "Unsharp Mask".
Basically, Unsharp Mask sharpens by increasing
contrast along the edges of an image.
The "Amount" determines how much to increase
the contrast of pixels.
I'll set it at 130%.
The "Radius" determines the number of pixels
surrounding the edge pixels that affect the sharpening.
I'll set it at 2 pixels.
The "Threshold" determines how different the
sharpened pixels must be from the surrounding
area before they're considered edge pixels.
I'll keep it 0 levels.
Make the craquelure texture visible and active.
Change the Blend Mode to "Multiply".
You can choose to keep the texture's opacity
at 100% or reduce it to your liking.
Next, we'll brighten it and increase its contrast.
Open the Adjustments panel.
If you don't see it, go to Window and Adjustments.
Click the "Levels" icon.
I'll make the Input black level: 12 and the
Input white level: 233.
Since each photo has its own characteristics of brightness and contrast,
feel free to adjust these amounts.
Lastly, we'll give it a slight, warm color
cast, which occurs often over time to oil paintings.
Open the Adjustments panel again and click
the "Photos Filter" icon.
Open the list of filters and click "Orange".
I'll keep its default Density: 25%, since
this particular image is already relatively warm.
Feel free to increase it if you like for your
image.
This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV.
Thanks for watching!
