- What's going on hybrid shooters?
It's Jason Vong.
Got a lot of requests asking
me to do a setup guide
on the Sony A7 III,
specifically how I set this up
for hybrid shooting,
how I set this up for
both photos and videos.
You guys are more than welcome
to use what I have set up
as a base template because I'm pretty sure
you guys are going to
modify it to fit your needs.
And just because I go over
the settings that I use,
I'll also try my best to
go over certain features
that you need to be aware of
when you're setting up your Sony A7 III.
So without further ado, let's
go ahead and dive right in.
All right, so first I'm gonna go over
how I mapped out my
physical buttons right here.
So if you could just join
me on tab two, page 8,
we're going to start messing
around with the custom keys
and the function menu set.
Now you're going to notice
that there's custom keys
available for video, for
photos and for playback.
We're only going to be
messing with the photo one.
Everything else, the
video and the playback,
pretty much just follows
whatever I have customized
on the photo section.
So control wheel, I have nothing set.
Custom button one, I have it set
to finder and monitor selection toggle.
So I personally set the finder
and monitor setting on manual
because I don't like the proximity sensor.
This is supposed to help you switch
between the finder and the monitor
when you have the camera
close to your eye.
But sometimes when I'm flying a gimbal
like you see in crane,
the motor would be really
close to the eye piece
so it would trigger that
toggle, which I don't like.
I like having that control myself.
So that is why I set
one of my custom buttons
to have a toggle between
the finder and the monitor.
And this is also a helpful too
when I want to switch between the monitor
and the view finder when I'm
shooting in broad daylight.
When it's super bright outside
where I can't really see the
monitor to gauge my exposure,
my color, my white balance,
I can just toggle it to the viewfinder,
look through it and just
start shooting from there.
Next up, custom button number two.
I have it set to the auto focus
manual focus control toggle.
Now, a lot of my Sony lenses don't have
the actual auto focus
and manual focus toggle
on the lens itself like this
Zeiss bodice lens right here,
or my Zeiss 55.
So when I need to quickly
switch to manual focus
to nail focus on a certain object
or a subject that I'm shooting,
I can just press the C2
and just quickly get focus from there.
All right, custom button number three,
I have it set to APS-C Super35/Full
frame selection toggle.
So if you guys didn't know the Sony Alpha
full frame mirrorless cameras
can shoot in both full
frame and in crop frames.
So you can use crop lenses as well.
But how I use it is to squeeze out
that extra bit of distance
that I would get from a lens.
So if I switched to Super35 mode,
I get this 1.5 times crop.
Now obviously that would only work
if you're shooting with a full frame lens.
So I like setting it to the
custom button three here
where it's away from everything else.
So it ensures that my
right hand right here
will accidentally trigger the camera
to go into Super35 mode.
So having it away from
everything else definitely helps.
That way I'm conscious when
I'm switching to Super35 mode
or switching back to full frame mode.
Now just to reiterate, Super35 mode
allows you to use APS-C lenses.
So have you mount an APS-C
lens onto a full frame camera,
it will crop out the vignetting
and effectively using
it like a crop camera.
But again, how I like to use it
is to maximize the range that
I would get out of a lens.
Let's say I have this 18
millimeter right here,
this is a full frame lens.
On a full frame, it
will be 18 millimeters.
If I switched you Super35
mode, it'll be 27 millimeters,
giving me that extra distance
that I would get with this lens.
Another example would be
if I'm shooting with an 85,
I feel like I still need
an extra bit of distance
with my 85, I switch to Super35 mode
and now I'm getting something like
130 millimeters with that lens.
Super, extremely helpful feature
just in case you guys didn't know.
That's a quick tip for
you guys in this video.
Moving on, custom button
number four, which is zoom.
So I have set the zoom function
which I'll show you guys in
a bit to clear image zoom.
Again, how we were talking
about squeezing out
extra bit of distance out of your lens.
well clear images zoom allows
you to do that as well.
You can actually zoom in up to two times,
digitally zoom in up to two times
without losing too much quality.
Now this is way better, way more effective
if you are shooting in
4K as opposed to 1080p.
When you are using clear image zoom on 4K,
you're not going to
lose that much quality.
The quality difference
will be very minimal.
But if you clear image zoom at 1080p,
I wouldn't push it past 1.4 times,
otherwise it will look a little pixelated.
Moving onto to page two.
Multi-selection center button.
I wish they would just call it a joy stick
because that's essentially what it is.
If you like, press down on the joystick,
it will activate whatever features
that you have set or programmed to it.
So I have here just focus standard.
You can change it to whatever else.
I don't usually press that button anyway.
So I kinda just left it there by default.
Center button is center
lock-on auto focus.
Again, something that I
don't really often use.
I just kind of leave
it there as a default.
But what that does is
you can actually use it
as like an object tracking.
Let's say you have your
subject right in the center,
you know that subject is going to move.
You can use center lock on auto focus
so the camera will automatically lock on
focus to that subject.
So that subject is a walking
to and from the camera
or left and right, the
camera will lock on focus
on that subject.
Next up is the left button,
which I have it set to focus area
and this just allows me to quickly switch
between the focus area wide
zone, a spot or center.
Right button is the ISO,
which allows me to
change the ISO obviously.
Next up is down button, which I think
I'm actually going to
change into something else
in the near future
because I had this set up
with my Sony A7R II and my Sony A6500
and that just pretty much allows me
to quickly move my focus point
around what the control wheel.
But since they include the
joystick now and the Sony A7R III
and the Sony A7 III, I really
don't need that focus setting
on my down button because
I can just use my joystick
to move the focus around.
So that will be changed
in the near future.
Page three, AEL button.
I have as focus magnifier.
It just pretty much helps
me grab focus manually
when I'm shooting photos.
That's going to be a little different
in my custom video keys.
AF on button I haven't
set to eye auto focus.
Some people like to do
back button focusing.
So if you like to do back button focusing,
you can actually switch the
AF on button to focus standard
and program your AEL
button to eye auto focus.
So that's one way that
you can do it yourself,
but I don't do back button focusing,
so I just kind of keep the AF
on button as the IAF button.
The focus hold button is also set to IAF.
Now, certain Sony Lenses has
a button on the lens itself
and you can actually change that
to have a different function
or different settings.
For me, I just have it as the default,
which is the eye auto focus.
Okay, so moving onto the movie custom key.
Again, everything just sort
of follows whatever I have set
for the photo custom keys.
The only thing that I have
different is the AEL button
would be my gamma display assist.
Let's say I'm shooting an
S log or hybrid log gamma,
I can quickly pull up
the gamma display assist
to monitor my white balance
and of course my exposure settings.
My AF on button would
be the focus magnifier.
So in case I switched to
manual focus on my camera,
I can just press the AF on button
to quickly zoom into that subject
that I'm trying to focus on
and just twist the ring
until I get focus on it.
Next up is the playback custom key.
Everything is pretty much
in its default setting
except custom button number
three which is ratings.
By default it should be protect,
but I like to have as rating
because you can actually start
the photos that you've taken.
So I changed it to ratings
and when you pull up the
ratings I guess menu,
you have an option of having
it rate from one to five stars.
Now, I personally have it up to two stars
the way that I have my workflow
is when I'm reviewing the photos,
one star for me as a maybe,
two stars means definitely.
It's a definite use that
I will use this photo.
Now again, everybody has
a different workflow.
You're more than welcome
to use all five stars
if you wanted to but
two stars is good enough
to let me know which is the photos
that I will need to import
or use for social media
or for whatever project
it is that I'm working on.
So that is the rating
set key for the playback.
Whoa, I feel like I talked for eternity.
I think it's already been 20 minutes
and I'm still not done with
this one section right here.
Honestly, I think this is
the toughest part though.
Moving on, function menu set
and this is pretty much
where you can pull up
all of your quick function
settings on your camera,
which is this FN key right here.
So let's see here.
Okay, so function upper,
I have drive mode,
number two, I have white balance,
three is focus mode, four is focus area,
five is audio record level,
six is picture profile.
Moving onto the lower level.
Lower one I have S&Q frame
rate, two zebra display,
three zebra level, four phase
priority and auto focus,
five grid line and six marker display.
So I think it'll be easier for
me to start describing things
if I actually pulled up
the actual function menu.
So the first one is drive mode.
This allows me to switch
between high speed continuous
or just single shot.
Next one is auto white balance.
That just allows me to switch
the white balance on the slide.
The third one is focus mode.
This allows me to switch
between single shot auto focus,
auto focus continuous, and
of course manual focus.
Just by default leave it
as auto focus continuous
unless I'm shooting photos and need it
to be a single shot auto focus.
Focus area.
I really don't need to be
touching it in the function menu
because I already have it as my left key,
but it's also a good
indicator to let me know
what focus mode I'm in.
Next up is the audio record level.
This allows me to control
how loud I want the or sorry,
the gain of my audio.
So if I don't use any sort of
a shotgun mic or external mic,
I will set this as 15 but
if I'm using a lav mic,
I'll set this to one.
Oh, by the way, if certain
functions on your screen
is grayed out, it's just because
you're not in the right
mode on the dow right here.
So if it's grayed out for whatever reason,
it's just, that's probably it.
Picture profile.
A lot of people have been asking me
what picture profiles do I use.
For the most part right now,
I'm shooting picture profile one,
which is the default movie profile.
It works for me.
The other picture profile
that I like to use
is EOS HD pro 3.0.
EOS HD pro color is pretty
much this little guy
that Andrew Reid from eoshd.com
put together to allow you to
get very similar cannon colors,
cannon tones on your camera.
And actually what you're
watching right now
is shot on that profile
with the Sony A7R III.
Moving on is the S&Q frame rate.
I have it on 60, but having
it on the quick function key
allows me to switch between
120 and 60 frames per second
when I need to twist to the
S&Q, mode on a dial right here
to shoot in slow motion
and I'll probably address
something about the S&Q function
when I get into the menu itself.
I am getting winded already.
Moving on is of course the zebra display.
Turn it on and off right
there and right next to it
is the zebra level.
I pretty much just keep
it at 107 plus by default.
So I'll expose it from a highlights
until I started seeing zebras.
And when I do I'll just stop
down until I don't see it.
So I know my highlights aren't blown out.
At 107 plus, I know that
there's still some highlights
I can recover in post production.
So that's a nice indicator for myself.
Right next to it is face priority AF
and generally I keep it on
if I know I'm shooting a human subject.
But if I'm shooting stuff
like an establishing shot
and there's a lot of
people walking by my shot,
I don't want the camera to pull
focus on a random stranger.
So if that's the case,
I would just turn off
face detection auto focus
within the function menu itself.
So the next one is grid lines
and pretty much I have this enabled
whenever I need to properly frame up
my whatever it is that I'm
shooting in the rule of thirds
or if I need some guidelines to help me
when I'm flying the camera on a gimbal
just to make sure my horizons stays level
or whatever it is I'm
shooting or orbiting around,
stays in the center.
Right next to it is marker display.
So whenever I shoot
weddings with my partner,
we shoot in the two,
three, five by one ratio.
So I just like to have
it on a function menu
to quickly switch to the two, three, five
by one aspect ratio on the function menu.
Now one of the things that I
haven't mentioned in this video
is the fact that you can actually recall
some of your favorite settings
via the one and two icon on your dial.
It's called memory recall.
So you have two slots right here
that you can put some of
your favorite settings.
So let's say for example, you can program
all of your 4K 24 frame settings into one
and then on your two
you can have your 120p
to 80p slow motion.
This essentially just
helps you switch time
from having to dig through your menu
to get to the 120 frames per second
and having to dial and your shutter speed.
This is just a quick flip of a switch
and you will be in super
slow motion already.
So that's just one example
on how to use memory recall.
Obviously you can program
to however you want it
and it's actually very easy to set up.
Just be in the mode that you want to be,
whether it be in photo more or video mode,
have all of your shutter speed, aperture,
ISO, and white balanced out in
and then just go to the
menu, go to memory recall
and just register it
into either one or two.
And that's pretty much
it for the function menu.
All right, now let's actually move on
to the actual menu settings.
Boy, I hope this is not
too boring for you guys.
Let me know if you've
made it this far already
and still are enjoying
this content right here.
Pressing the menu button
takes us to the first page.
Tab, one file format, raw plus jpeg.
I always shoot raw and jpeg.
For the most part, I just use the jpeg
for any sort of Instagram
social media posts,
but if I really like a photo a lot,
I'll take the raw file to my light room
and process the image or if I'm shooting
wedding photos of course, it's
just good to be able to have
both the raw and the jpeg files.
File type compress.
There's a lot of debate about this,
whether we should
compressed or uncompressed.
I think Tony Northrop
address this in like a video
two years ago saying he didn't
see that much of a difference
between compressed and uncompressed,
so I just keep it as compressed.
Jpeg quality, I keep it at extra fine.
Again, I shoot the jpeg
from my camera to my phone
for social media content
and I want to have
the highest quality jpeg possible.
Right under it is the jpeg image size.
You have the choice between 24, 10 or six.
24 is fine, it sends the photo
really quickly to my phone,
so there's no issues with the size itself.
With the A7R3 though, 42
megapixels is too much
to transfer to a phone so that
I would set to 18 megapixels.
Here I will leave at 24.
24 is just fine.
Aspect ratio three by two.
That's for photos.
Of course you want to buy three by two.
Now the next one right
here is APS-C and Super35.
I changed it to manual and off
because I personally
like to have full control
of my super 35 toggle.
And again that's something
that I program to my C3
so I can just quickly switch
from full frame to super 35.
No, I don't want the camera
to automatically determine that for me.
So I keep it off and manual.
Next page is long
exposure, noise reduction
and high ISO and noise reduction.
I believe these only affect your jpegs.
It doesn't affect your raw files.
So if you would like some
little bit of noise reduction
in your jpeg photos for
long exposure and high ISO,
go ahead and keep that
on normal or on or high,
whatever it is you like.
That is totally your preference.
Color space SRGB, that's
what I leave it on.
Page three of tab one.
Nothing here.
Four, ignore that.
Five, okay tab five.
This is an important one.
Switch vertical and horizontal
auto focus area point.
So I have it on auto focus
point plus auto focus area
and what this means is that
let's say you are shooting,
let's say you have to
shoot in both portrait
and landscape orientation a lot.
So you can have your
landscape orientation,
the focus point to be on the center.
And when you switch to
portrait orientation,
you can have it as a focus
area zone on the top center.
And when you go back to landscape,
it'll go back to center focusing
and this is helpful for when
I shoot concert photography.
Whenever I shoot in the
landscape orientation,
I know I always want to frame my musicians
to the right third of the frame
and when I want to
shoot portraits of them,
I have it on my top zone center.
(laughs)
Zone center at the top.
So every time I bounce between landscape
and portrait orientation,
I'll would just remember
those auto focus settings
that I have set to.
So it's extremely helpful.
I encourage you guys to try it out,
especially if you bounce
between portrait orientation
and landscape orientation a lot
when you're shooting photos.
Okay, moving on.
Auto focus illuminator, I turn that off.
If you have it on when
you're in a dark area,
this little orange light will beam out
to help you grab focus on a subject.
As generally kind of annoying for me
if I'm shooting in low light situations
so I just turn it off.
Center lock on auto focus.
We already talked about that.
Next one is set face
priority in auto focus.
Now this is important to know.
So earlier I talked about
how I turn on and off
for face detection, auto focus.
This one right here allows
you to control that,
but also displays the little
box around people's faces.
So you'll see right here in
the second option right here,
face to tech frame display.
I keep it on just so I know
it is grabbing focus on a face
and which face it's grabbing focus on.
Next one is auto focus track sensitivity.
I generally just keep it at three.
If you have a moving subject
that's moving quite quickly,
you might want to change that to five.
If they're moving like a turtle,
you might just want to set it to one.
But if you noticed, your camera
is focused hunting a lot,
it may be because of
these settings right here.
For me I had it at five before,
so when I was trying to shoot portraits
it was just focused hunting like crazy.
But when I said it back to three,
it was working perfectly fine.
So something to check when you are having
a little bit of a focus
issue with the camera.
Auto focus which shutter I keep it on.
Again, we talked about back
button focusing earlier.
So if you're a type of
person who likes to use
back button, focusing
with the AF on button,
this is something that
you want to turn off.
Auto focus with shutter, turn that off.
I keep it on because I like
to half hold my shutter
to pre focus on a subject
before snapping a shot.
That's just me.
Alright, moving on.
Pre-AF I have off,
everything is pretty much
in this default setting right there.
Okay, so now I'm on page nine of tab one.
We're still on tap one right here.
Metering mode I have it as multi.
That pretty much just
looks at your entire screen
to determine the best exposure
when you are using auto ISO.
Face priority in multi
meter, I have that as off.
Spot metering point, you can
either either have it on center
or wherever you have to focus
point on your screen to be.
I just generally keep it in the middle.
Next step is flash.
If you are shooting anything with flash
especially wireless flash,
you want to make sure that
wireless flash is turned on.
Otherwise, whatever receiver that you have
or transmitted that you
have here on the camera,
it would not fire the flashes.
So make sure you have
the wireless flash on.
Next step is white balance and for me,
I like to have my priorities set
in auto white balance as ambiance.
That is just my personal preference.
By default it would just come as standard.
You can have the option as white as well,
but for me I just have it as ambiance.
That's just a personal preference.
Picture profile already talked about.
Page 13 now of tab one,
focus magnify time,
I put no limit because
I wanted to take my time
to make sure that I know
my subject is in focus.
So if I need to manual focus,
I would like my focus magnify
time to have no limit.
Peaking setting.
I don't often use peaking on my camera
just because the camera
display is quite small
as it is already.
If I have any other
little dots on the screen
or it's actually harder for me to tell
if my subject is in focus.
So I kind of just rely on my eye
and the sharpness of the image.
But if you are a type of
person who likes to use peaking
when you're manually focus on something,
then this is the settings
that you want to mess with.
Anti-flicker shoot, I have it off.
Face registration.
This just pretty much if
you're shooting weddings,
if you're shooting any important figure
that you know is going
to be the main subject
throughout your entire photo shoot,
you want to register
their face on your camera.
That way when this person
either the bride or the groom
or whoever the important figure
is, if they're in a group,
the camera will always prioritize
the focus on their face
instead of the random faces
that are also on the screen.
So that's a helpful way of
using face registration.
All right, finally, we're
moving onto tab two.
I think everything just pretty
much is downhill from here.
So tab two, page one, exposure mode.
Now this affects your videos only.
So you'll notice the little
film strip right next to it.
That just means it affects the video mode.
So exposure moat I have
it as manual exposure.
I like to control all of my settings
whenever I'm shooting videos,
ISO shutter speed aperture of that.
That's why it's in manual exposure.
You'll see S&Q exposure
mode here grayed out.
Again, if it's grayed
out for whatever reason,
it's just because you're
not in the right mode.
So you switch to S&Q on the top.
You can actually change
the exposure mode for S&Q
and again, I just keep
it as manual exposure.
So moving on file format,
I generally shoot in 4K,
24 frames per second.
You also have an option
of shooting 4K 30 frames
but with the A73, just keep in mind
you're going to have that hefty crop
when you're shooting in 4K 30.
I think it was 1.5 times,
but someone else told me it was 1.2 times.
Someone fact check me on that.
But just keep in mind that
there's going to be a crop
when you're shooting 4K 30.
But if you're shooting 4K
24, nothing to worry about.
Or you have an option
to shoot in XAVC S HD,
which is just 1080p.
You have option to between
60 frames per second,
30 frames per second, 24 frames per second
and 120 frames per second.
Oh yes, and one more thing.
Don't ever shoot in AVCHD.
It's a horrible codex.
Just take my word for it.
It's bad.
Stick with the XAVC
codex for 4K and 1080p.
So S&Q settings.
What is S&Q?
S&Q stands for slow and quick.
This allows you to shoot
hyperlapses or slow motion.
Now, here's the debacle
that I've been in lately.
I've been shooting a lot
of my slow motion in S&Q
but from what people are telling me,
when you're shooting slow motion in S&Q,
the bit rate on those
videos aren't as high
as if you're shooting, let's
say 60 frames per second,
60p or 120p in a regular movie mode.
So I think they are saying
that if you're shooting
120 frames per second or
60 frames per second in HD,
it's better to do it in the 1080p mode
instead of S&Q mode.
Now when you're shooting
slow motion in S&Q,
it does not record sound at all,
but it'll play back the
footage in real time,
in slow motion realtime.
Sorry.
It'll play back the
footage in slow motion.
But if you're shooting 60p or 120p
in regular 1080p settings, it
will play back in real time
and you have an option
to slow it down in pose.
And if you do it that way,
it'll also record sound as well
versus S&Q, it will not record sound.
Boy, I hope whatever I sat and make sense,
but if you are someone
who doesn't really care
about that kind of stuff
and you want to use S&Q
to do your slow motion,
then the settings that
I personally like to use
is record setting 24p and the frame rate
I like to balance between
60 frames per second
and 120 frames per second.
Oh boy.
I think I'm running out of water here.
All right.
On the bottom right
here is proxy recording.
If you have that on, it would just record
like a 720p file I
believe, that MOV 720p file
that simultaneously gets recorded
to whatever it is you have.
So you have an option of shooting in 4K
and a proxy file that gets created.
So you can actually use this proxy file
to send to your smartphone
if you want to quickly send
something to social media
and this is personally what I like to use
for Instagram stories.
I would have the proxy recording turned on
and I would just shoot like
this for Instagram stories,
send the footage to my phone,
use some sort of rotation app on my phone
and shoot it over to Instagram stories.
So that's a great way to
use proxy recording as well.
And I also heard that you can
actually use these proxy files
to substitute your high quality 4K files
when you're editing on
Premier Pro or Final Cut.
So it just saves you the ingest time,
the conversion time of
having to create proxy files
during editing, and you can
actually have the camera
create proxy files that are read to go,
that are ready to link up
in your editing software
to start editing right away.
That way when you're ready to export
the high quality 4K files, you
just have to really link it
to your actual high quality 4K files.
Boy I talked too much that
my computer fell asleep.
Moving onto page two of tab two.
Auto focus drive speed, auto focus track.
Sensitivity, those are
normal and standard.
If you want to learn more
about auto focus settings,
I'd check out my auto
focus settings guide.
I know I made that last year,
but a lot of the principles still apply
for the newer Sony cameras, like the A7R3
and of course the A73 right here.
So click up here to check it out
or find the link in the
description box below.
Audio recording is on, audio
record level is set of 15.
Again, like I said,
whatever I said earlier
about the record level, 15
for when I have a shotgun mic
or no mic and one for
when I'm using lav mics.
Audio record level display is always on.
Again, if you see your
audio settings grayed out,
it's just because you're
in the wrong mode.
Just make sure you're in movie mode
when you are changing these
audio settings right here.
Okay, page three of tab two.
Wind noise reduction.
Always keep that off.
Never have it on because your
audio will sound like crap
if you have wind noise
reduction turned on.
So my best advice to
you is leave that off.
Market display already talked about this
Movie with shutter is on.
Turn that on.
So a lot of people's
gripe with the Sony A7R II
and the S2 and the 6500
is that they cannot use
the shutter button here
to trigger movie recording
which frustrated a lot of people.
They had to set their custom one button
to the movie record button.
So Sony is now finally
allowing you to use the shutter
as the movie record button as well.
So you can actually press
on the movie shutter button.
Sorry, the shutter button right here
to trigger movie recording.
So if you are a fan of that,
make sure you turn that on.
Okay, moving on to page four of tab two.
Silent shooting.
If this is grayed out for you,
just make sure you're in photo mode.
Silent shooting, you want to have that on
if you want to be discreet
when you're taking photos.
Let's say you're on a movie set
or you're on a golf tournament,
those are the examples
that Sony give in their presentations.
But I personally like to use
it when I am at a wedding
or I'm not the official photographer,
I'm just the guest and I want
to be rapid firing shots away,
of the couple on the altar
or something like that.
So this allows you to just be discreet
when you are shooting.
So keep that on if you want to be discreet
with your shooting, but
if you start to notice
any sort of banding or
weird things happening
when you're doing silent
shooting, just turn it off.
And one thing about silent shooting
is if you're in silent shooting mode,
you cannot use any of
the picture profiles.
I think you're limited
to just creative styles
and standard profiles.
So just keep that in mind.
Moving on is the electronic
front curtain shutter.
So again, if you're noticing
any sort of banding issue,
just make sure that this
setting here is turned off.
Release for without lens,
release without card,
I have those both enabled.
Okay, moving on.
Steady shot, I have it on.
That pretty much just enables
the embody image stabilization
in your camera, which is super helpful
when you're handholding
and shooting videos.
It would just help stabilize
your footage a little bit.
Steady shot settings.
Let's say you are using a manual lens,
lenses that will able
to electronically
communicate with your camera
to determine the best steady shot setting.
So let's say you're using a cinema lens
that is a 24 millimeters, so
you would actually go into here
and change the steady shot
focal length to 24 millimeters.
And if you switch out to a 50 prime lens,
you would change that to 50 millimeters.
But for the most part,
if your lens can electronically
communicate with the camera,
then just leave it as auto.
It would just automatically
determine the best settings
to stabilize the lens that you're using.
Moving on zoom.
You need to be in movie mode for this.
So I have as clear image zoom.
Again, this just allows me to squeeze out
an extra bit of distance with my lenses.
I have the clear image
zoom button set to my C4
so I can zoom in, digitally zoom in
up to two times in 4K without
losing any sort of quality.
So that's the setting
that you want to make sure
that you have on clear image zoom,
if you plan on using clear image zoom
when you're shooting 4K videos.
All right, moving on
to page six of tab two,
finder and monitor.
The reason why it's
grayed out on my screen
is because I'm using an external recorder
to record my menu settings,
but when you unplug it,
you'll see that you have
three options right here.
Auto, view finder manual
and monitor manual.
I like to have as monitor manual
because when I turn on my camera,
it will automatically display the monitor
and again, we talked about this earlier
how I set my C1 to have that monitor
and you view finder toggle.
Again, I just don't want
that proximity sensor
to accidentally get triggered
when I'm flying the gimbal
or when something accidentally covers it.
So that's why I have it as monitor manual.
Zebra settings we already
talked about this.
All right, moving on to
page seven of tab two,
continuous shoot length.
So if you're shooting in
high speed continuous,
if you have this feature turned on,
it would just display a
little bar on the side
that lets you know your buffer.
So if you max out your
buffer, you just have to wait
until the bar recharges
before you can shoot again.
It's just a nice little
indicator to let you know
how many shots you still have left
before the camera has to stop
to finish writing the photos first
before it can continue shooting.
Auto review, I have it off and
then we came back full circle
with the custom keys.
So page nine of tab two,
custom operation number two,
you'll see a thing called movie button.
I have that as on always.
So if I'm dabbling in the photo
mode and something happens
that I need to quickly take a video of,
I can just press my movie
button near my eye piece
and quickly it would just
quickly switch to movie mode
and this is very handy because sometimes
I'm shooting photos of the models
and then when I want to quickly switch
to shooting slow motion videos of them,
I can just quickly press
my movie button right here
and I'll be in movie mode right away.
There's going to be a slight
delay when you do that,
when you're in photo mode and
pressing the movie button,
but hey, it's going to be a lot quicker
than you twisting to the movie button
and activating movie recording from there.
Next up is audio signals
and that pretty much is
just this thing right here.
(beeps)
It lets you know when
the camera's recording
and when the camera stops recording.
A lot of people find that
annoying, find that distracting.
I personally have it on,
so when I'm shooting videos like this,
I know when the camera's recording
and I know when the
camera stops recording.
So it's just helpful for me.
I keep it on.
Oh my God, I ran out of water.
Okay, let's continue.
(laughs)
I think we're almost done here.
We're at the two craziest tabs.
So the next tab we're
on is tab number three,
which is this global odd looking thing.
Okay, so send to smartphone functioning.
Anything here as important?
Okay, not really, but let me
just quickly show you guys.
So in order for you to
transfer photos or videos
from your camera to your phone,
you just go to your playback.
You press the FN button and
it'll ask you this image
or all the images from the
state or multiple images.
So this allows you to either
slide one image or one video
or multiple images or multiple videos
and send it to your smartphone.
So you just have to make sure
that your smartphone has
the play memories app
and you just have to connect it via Wifi
and it'll wirelessly
transmit the photos or videos
from the camera to your phone.
So that's how you would send photos
and videos to your phone.
Now you can't send raw...
Actually, maybe you can send raw files.
I'm going to have a
correction here on the screen
if you can or cannot send the raw files,
but for sure you can send
jpegs from the camera
to your phone and you can only
send proxy recorded videos
from your camera to your phone.
So you cannot actually transfer 4K,
high quality 4K videos from
the camera to the phone.
It needs to be proxy
enabled recording videos
that can be sent from the
camera to the smartphone.
Okie dokes.
Okay, let's see here.
Page two of the global tab.
Okay, nothing here.
Okay, playback.
Those are all pretty self explanatory.
I can't even talk anymore.
That's how tired I am.
These setup guide videos are so long.
And guess what?
I probably have to do
another one for the A7S3.
Anyways, we are on tab
four now, page three.
Select playback media that
just pretty much controls
when you go to your playback,
would it either grab the data
from slot one of your
memory card to slot two.
So we are on tab five, page one.
Monitor brightness and
you can actually set that
to either manual or sunny weather
and one of the biggest
improvements on the Sony A7R III
and the A73 and A9 is
that when you shoot in 4K,
the screen will dim.
If anything, you can actually
make the screen a lot brighter
when you're shooting in
4K in broad daylight.
So if you're having
trouble seeing your screen
in broad daylight, you want to
change that to sunny weather.
Now, when you are shooting
in sunny weather though,
it does oversaturate the
display a little bit.
It makes it a little
more contrast as well.
So I wouldn't use it to gauge
your exposure or your color.
Just use it to help you frame your shot.
For exposure and color,
just trust in your settings,
just trusting your meters.
Make sure you have zebras turned on
and make sure you know your
white balance is set correctly.
So that would be my suggestion
when you are using sunny weather outdoor.
Sorry, when you're using sunny weather
when you're shooting videos.
Okay, so this next thing right here
is super duper important,
which is the auto power off temperature.
Make sure you set that on high.
What it is, it's pretty much
a heat tolerance levels.
So if you have it on standard,
when your camera detects
itself being a little warm
to the point where it's
going to get really hot,
that needs to shut itself
down to cool itself off,
that's what it is.
However, that can be very annoying
when you're shooting any
sort of long form recording
like a long ceremony or a talk show
or a live show or something like that.
So you definitely want to set that on high
when you're shooting
those types of videos.
Now it'll give you a little warning
when you set it to high,
saying the temperature of the device
may rise to power times record
to prioritize recording time.
Would you like to change the settings?
And the answer is yes.
Okay next up, NTSC PAL.
Nope, nope.
Touch operation, I keep it off.
On my A6500, I do have it on,
but because I have the joystick right here
on my Sony A7R III
and A73, I don't ever use touch operation.
I just use the joystick.
HDMI settings, right here.
If you are using an external
monitor or an external recorder
and you see the HDMI display on a screen
like you are seeing now on my screen
and you don't want that,
make sure you turn off
HDMI info display.
But if you want to record
your menu setting screens
like what I'm doing right
here, you want to keep that on?
So yeah, now you know how I record
the back of my screen now.
Next, page four of tab five.
So now I'm on page six,
set up six of tab five
and record media settings.
So this allows you to do
some interesting things
to your two SD card slots.
So one you'll see,
prioritize record media.
It will always by default,
will record to slot one.
You can obviously change that to slot two,
you always want to shoot to slot two.
But what's interesting is
recording mode, standard.
So standard just means it'll finish
recording slot one first.
If your memory fills up on slot one,
it will automatically switch to slot two
and you gotta make sure
your auto switch media
is turned on for that to work.
But you can also do
some interesting things.
You can have the camera
record a photo simultaneously
to two cards or video
simultaneously to two cards
or you can do both photos
and video simultaneously
to two cards or you
can even sort them out.
You can have slight one
to only take the raw files
and the second card to only
take the jpegs or vice versa.
Or you can even have one SD
card strictly records videos
and the other SD card
to strictly take photos.
So a lot of different combinations
that you can set for the recording mode.
I, myself do simultaneous photo and video
just because for weddings
I like to have a backup,
a second SD card as a backup.
So that's what I would
personally use for weddings
but for the most part I keep it on stand.
So the last half is the star tab,
which is the my menus tab.
So a lot of people kind of complain
about the Sony menu system,
how it's really confusing to navigate.
So what Sony's doing is like, hey,
well you can make your own
menu if you don't like ours.
So you can put whatever
it is that you like.
The settings and the features
that you'd like to change very often
into its own separate page.
So you can customize
it to however you like.
I personally have gamma
display assist, sound shooting,
grid line and monitor brightness.
But again, this is something
that I don't often touch too much myself.
So everything that I need to have access
would already be readily
available on my custom buttons
as well as my function button.
Hey, this could be helpful
for somebody out there.
My gosh, my hand.
So that is how I set up my
Sony A7 III and Sony A7R III
for hybrid shooting.
I hope you guys learned
a lot from this video.
I hope this video has
been very informative.
I'm getting really tired.
This setup video is getting way too long.
I'll talk to you guys in my next video.
Peace.
