Welcome back everyone its Mark with
Exotic Car Play Place today I'm going to
introduce to you a BMW East 70 X 535 d
oil change that's what we're doing today
yes oil change we're gonna do it do it
yourself today and I'm gonna show you
the tools you need I'm going to show you
the materials you need the oils and such
and then at the end of the video if you
stick around I'm gonna share with you my
last visit to the dealer how much that
ended up costing me through the dealer
how much I actually save doing it myself
and I will provide a link at the very
end of the video if you care to watch
that video by all means check it out and
it'll show the entire process what it
ended up costing me with it so there's a
few tools that you're going to need for
this work number one you're gonna need a
flat blade screwdriver of some type
this is gonna get you in able to pop
some of the hoses and I will show you
that as we go you're going to need a 17
millimeter socket 17 mil with an
extension helps you get in there little
deeper this is for the drain plug you
will need a longer extension a deep
socket as well for the oil filter
housing this is a 32 millimeter socket
thirty two millimeter pretty substantial
as you can see and I've got that
attached to a long extension and a half
inch drive ratchet of course you're
going to need an oil filter very
important you need an oil filter here
I'm gonna show you inside so you're
gonna need a filter and you're gonna
need the replacement rings there's an
o-ring and the copper crush gasket for
the bottom of the oil plug you need that
you're going to need some de F no this
has nothing to do with the oil change
itself I just do this I do this as an
add-on because typically the dealer does
a top-up as well when they do an oil
change and of course one of the filler
caps happens to be underneath that one
extension hose and since I've got the
hose off anyway I might as well add
de effluent so I always do this while
I'm doing an oil change and then you are
going to need about eight litres of SLX
professional Castro oil this is
specifically what BMW specifies for this
engine don't use some all kinds of
random different oils it has to have the
ll 0-4 ll zero one designations that is
a very specific type of oil and additive
the way this is constructed that is made
for these engines so you need this oil
this is what the dealer specifies under
warranty conditions I know other people
use other types of oils but for the
warranty factor this would cover you you
need eight litres of that and then of
course you need the dirty pen good old
oil pen you're gonna need one of these
that can support at least eight litres
of oil so you're not going to be
spilling all over three men up so you
use a 17 millimeter socket on the drain
plug cause you'll notice sometimes
there's a cover here now the dealer
normally does my all changes so I'm not
sure what happened here often there is a
cover here and it hooks in and it you
snap it here and this unhooks so it
looks like it might have been left off
for some reason
but anyway not a critical piece
nonetheless
looks like somebody's left that off
crack that loose that came off pretty
nicely and make sure I got another tool
here but it's the same as the flat blade
you can use to make sure that o-ring
comes down with it
there we go and she comes now we got to
wait for this to do its thing and we're
gonna start working at the top of the
engine now let's just let this drain out
and we're gonna work on getting the
filter out next so the first thing we
got to do is remove this cover that pops
up straight back that cover has to come
off first and foremost I always like to
give things a bit of a wipe the next
thing is we have to get down to the oil
filter housing which is right down in
here right there there's your filter
housing so you're gonna have to get
access to that so we're probably gonna
take this off just to get a little
better access plus we're gonna be adding
the de F fluid down in here in this
container or in this reservoir as well
so might as well take this whole tube
off okay
so we lift that out let's do this in
first here because this is our intake
pipe for our fresh air to the engine I
always give us a little bit of clean as
much as I can then we're gonna do the
other end here there we go easy peasy so
we've got this chart we've got this air
too taken off now we have better access
to pull our filter we have lots of room
in here now and of course to add our de
F fluid we can add some of that when
we're in here and that's why I said
about getting more definitely so you got
a few things the beauty about this car
is it actually has a dipstick and so we
can check our oil levels before we have
to rely on the computer system because
you don't want to overfill the diesel
engine you will fry the engine so what
we'll do is we can check the oil level
here before we actually fire it up but
this car has an actual dipstick unlike
the m5 that you know I always speak up
here regularly that car doesn't have it
but this car does right there so now we
grab our 32 millimeter socket long
extension and our ratchet now we're
gonna use it on this housing here the
oil filter housing oh there we go
you're loosen it off try to go gentle
not that that really matters once you
start turning it doesn't sound very nice
I'm gonna slowly back this out see that
leaking all over you want to make sure
you give it a chance to drain out a
little bit into the housing let's give
this housing a quick little wipe after
pull the filter out and of course I put
the housing in here I use the plastic
bag in the old filter box just to
prevent too much oil lining all over the
place so I've got a nice little secure
spot for that and then you want to
disconnect the filter from the housing
okay stop so I'm gonna pop that filter
out the filter back to the bag and lo
and behold we have the housing ready for
a new filter now the kid I have doesn't
have the o-ring replacements for these
bottoms so we'll have to reuse that I do
have the new o-ring for the top here we
definitely want to make sure we replace
that if you don't replace that you might
have yourself a leak so now I'm gonna
get the old old ring off I'm just using
a needle you can use kind of a pick or
whatever you need let's get that started
old o-ring garbage you never want to
reuse these kind of things specially on
the outside where you can leak oil to
the outside of the engine that's bad
news you don't want okay so what we're
gonna do we're gonna crack a new bottle
of oil open tear that out you always
want to have fresh oil on these ol rings
so they don't bind otherwise when you
turn the housing they can bind and then
they pinch and then they wind up
actually coming apart and you don't want
that so I'm going to use a little fresh
oil here's the new o-ring right here
let's just put some oil on this
Oh ring nice and greasy we're gonna take
this housing out work it back on there
look it back into the groove
there no it's fully in the groove it's
all the way around make sure it's really
nice and oily oily is good then we get
the new filter we put that on the end
here we've got still a little oil on the
hands now there's a couple of old rings
inside on either either end of this
filter you want to make sure that those
get greased up nice to give a better
lubricating surface when you're pushing
this back into the housing so we're
gonna put that in there yeah snapped in
there you got to make sure that you've
got this filter is fully seated pushed
all the way in you might have to wiggle
it a little bit and snap it down that's
what I just did so then you look at that
position filter is definitely fully
seated into the housing not coming off
anytime soon so now we can thread this
back into the housing back in now the
key with this and then snug at first you
never want to over tighten this stuff
okay so now we use our 32 millimeter
socket and we're gonna Snug this down
again don't over tighten it but you want
to feel that resistance the additional
resistance there not over tightening it
but I feel it snug there so with this
I'm not gonna share with you the torque
specs there likely is one in the book
but a lot of it unfortunately comes down
to how well the o-rings are all
lubricated and if your filter housing
has some burrs on the threads or there's
a lot of factors the point is you just
want it nice and snug not construction
torque where your reefing on it you
basically just want to Snug it up where
you can feel the resistance and it sort
of locks in just give it a wee tweak a
little more don't over yard on that if
you do you're gonna break a housing
you'll have a problem so the biggest
thing of course is how we're gonna
verify that is once we do run the
vehicle we'll make sure that's not
leaking out of the housing make sure
it's not leaking out from
from the drain plug two points of leak
potential here and we just want to make
sure we don't have a leak that's all
that's the way we're gonna know that we
did this process when we've got the
drain plug we've got the old copper
crush washer now it's not the end of the
world if you don't have a new one I've
reused these at times as well big thing
is once you snug it up and you run the
car doesn't have a leak or does it not
have a leak it usually is going to hold
once it holds it's gonna be good for the
duration I recommend changing the o-ring
out but it's not a panic mode sometimes
what you can get away with is turn it
around and then it kind of recon tours
it but I'm gonna change it out so I'm
gonna take that off I'm gonna put a new
o-ring on so I've got a new crush washer
that's a copper washer and I'm gonna be
putting this back on let's do that now
okay so let's see is still pit sling out
of here a little bit but now we're gonna
shut her down right there so first thing
is you'll notice we've got a new copper
ring on there we're gonna thread that in
there
and tight I'm gonna give it a little the
wipe here because of the little oil I
was like to keep things clean nothing
worse then you do it all the right
things and even if you don't have a leak
and alson you've got leaks coming you
got oil dripping on the ground after
putting you in a state of panic
because it dripped off of a crossmember
or a piece of suspension or frame or
something we're going to tighten this up
so again we use the seventeen millimeter
socket seventeen mil with the extension
just makes it easier so I don't have to
get my hands in here a knuckle Buster
that's why I use an extension don't go
crazy it's an aluminum block you don't
want to strip anything out nice and snug
snug and that's all there is to it now
we've got this next is putting the hoses
bak together up top and we'll fill her
up and check it go from there okay so
the first thing you want to do I'm going
to take this cover off so actually the
first thing you got to consider when
you're you're working with this de F
diesel exhaust fluid is it's not really
nice to the skin in the eyes so the idea
is protect yourself I've already got
gloves that's why I'm using goggles
right now and I'm gonna use a funnel so
I prevent splashing all over the place
in this case this housing here you can
use a set of generic pliers thumb wrench
or some other kind of tool of some sort
so I'm actually using a 17 millimeter
wrench to undo that top you can use any
tool but this will do to do the job too
so I got that and undo it and the rest
should be by hand take that off
funnel time put some funnel in there I'm
gonna start pouring the deaf fluid in
here okay so now we're gonna undo this
funnel we're gonna take that off
naturally
and we're gonna do the other side I'm
going to talk about the other side this
one's more or less full put the plug
back on to it don't need this very tight
you don't want to tighten it really
hardly at all just gonna snug it on ya
good enough that's tight
since we're on the topic we're gonna do
the other side as well I'll just do that
now before we get them going on the oil
change now we're gonna fill this one up
too we're just gonna empty this out but
the de F fluid lid back on this side
this is the operating tank done okay so
now we grab this this is the next step
we're gonna put this back together put
the hose back in here snap that in put
this back in there we go that's all back
together we're good there so the next
thing what we're gonna do is now we're
gonna add the oil we're gonna run it up
make sure everything's tickety-boo and
then we're gonna put the top cover back
on and that's it you'll notice it says
Castrol that's because this is the
sponsored oil this is the approved oil
for the company we're gonna put that
down there put a funnel and we're gonna
start start adding some oil
okay so before we add any more oil I
just added six liters now as you can see
the vehicles propped up this way and the
dipstick goes to the back of the engine
so the the the poor part about that of
course is it shows full right now the
way the vehicle's sitting when I dip it
in here I put the dipstick in and if you
look it shows that fall pretty much
thing is I don't want to add more now
until I see it on the ground and the
vehicle's level I don't want to add too
much oil because if you had too much oil
to this engine diesel engines fry really
fast from too much oil so put the
dipstick back in I would say we have
enough oil at least to start the engine
now so we can drop the vehicle back down
more on a level will idle it for a bit
we'll let it settle and we'll add up
what else we need to put in so all we
had to do is we topped up another one
and a half quarts or one hundred one and
a half liters that takes us to a grand
total of about seven and a half liters
from bottom to the top is all it took
seven and a half liters so make sure you
buy that eighth liter don't forget about
it make sure you have enough to top it
up I left a half there for fill zis for
later on sometime so just to summarize
as I mentioned in the beginning of the
video I did all of this work the oil was
thirteen and something dollars per litre
plus the filter plus the DEF fluid all
in I'm into it for about a hundred and
fifty one hundred sixty dollars now if
you want to know what I paid last year
through the dealer my videos at the end
of this video or the link is at the end
of this video be sure to click on there
if you want to watch the full detail on
it it'll gives you the whole layout of
the bill and the invoice from the dealer
but in short they charge about two
hundred and sixty dollars or two fifty
to sixty so that leaves me at a grand
total of a hundred dollars saved by
doing this myself
now what did it take what did it really
take it really only took me about two
two and a half hours and that's just me
fiddling around I wasn't in a rush I
wasn't scrambling it was a beautiful day
out here I cracked a beer I didn't show
that part of it
it was just a beautiful day out here
enjoying the weather so I wasn't in a
rush a couple hours I saved myself so I
saved myself a hundred bucks so at the
end of the day you have to ask yourself
is it worth it or is it not worth it to
save a hundred dollars on an oil change
for me that's almost half price that's
about forty percent off of the original
price from the dealer so for me part of
it is me exploring the car doing some
cleanup and learning what it's all about
that's actually the first oil change
I've done on the x5 it was actually very
simple very very simple so it's not
daunting at all the key thing the key
takeaway here is you do not want to
overfill it you can time bomb your
diesel engine if you do that make sure
you keep it slight where it's slightly
between the two lines on the dipstick so
everybody I hope you enjoyed the video
in short easy job Do It Yourself you
want to save a few dollars if you don't
I get it you know what it's not a ton of
money but every oil change saves some
money and if you save a hundred dollars
on every oil change you to that one per
year that's a hundred dollars you want a
car for you know it's a thousand dollars
in a 10-year time frame be safe
everybody thanks for coming out mark
again with exotic car play place and
we'll see you in the next one bye-bye
