- Hey, home brewers!
Bryan here with Great Fermentations.
And today, we are brewing on the brand new
Anvil Foundry all-in-one,
all-grain Brewing System.
And we're gonna show you
step-by-step instructions
on how to use it on your first brew day.
(bouncy upbeat music)
So, what is the Anvil Foundry?
Well, it's an all-in-one
TurnKey Brewing System.
Meaning that minus your fermentor it has
everything you need to
brew beer from day one.
So some of the features
it has is number one,
it has a small footprint
which allows you to brew
almost anywhere there is a standard
110-120 volt plug.
It has a larger capacity vessel than most
which gives you the
flexibility to incorporate
a sparge step in your mash.
Or, just skip it altogether and go with
a no sparge, brew in a bag style method.
It has an on-board
controller which provides
you the ability to set
and maintain your mash
temperatures to within
plus or minus 1 degree.
The controller also
features a delayed timer,
so you can load your water in prior to
brew day and schedule it to start
heating up 24 hours in advance.
It has a double wall
insulation which means,
you don't need a sleeve or a jacket to
help maintain your mash temps and
provide a better boiling intensity.
The heater is a ultra low watt density
triple element heater,
which won't Scorch your wort.
Offers the ability to switch from that
standard 110-120 to a 240-volt power with
a simple switch and
changing out the plug head.
And, it has a rotating racking arm which
allows you to do easy
sediment-free transfers.
All right, so we've
listed off the features
we're gonna dive right in
and get into the brew day.
The Anvil Foundry comes in two sizes.
The largest has a 10.5 gallon capacity,
and is perfect for
standard 5-gallon batches.
And comes with a grain basket that can
hold up to 16 pounds of grain.
The smaller size, in 6.5 gallon capacity,
is perfect for small batch brewers doing
2 and a half to 3 gallon batches and
can handle up to 8 pounds of grain.
Both units can be purchased by themselves
or, with the optional Recirculation Kit.
Which provides better
efficiency and clearer wort.
The base system comes stocked
with the following items,
The main brewing unit with lid,
heating element,
controller, and drain valve.
A grain basket and grain basket stand,
and a stainless steel
immersion wort chiller,
with clamps and garden hose connections.
The optional Recirculation Kit
comes with the Anvil Recirculation Pump,
perforated mash screen,
4 feet of silicone tubing
which you cut into two separate lengths,
four hose clamps, flow control clamp,
and a stainless steel return tube.
To start setup your Foundry base unit
near a standard 120-volt outlet.
You also want this to
be in an area with decent
ventilation as a decent amount of steam
will be created during the boil.
Next, add your water to the Foundry.
The Foundry documentation provides a great
guide on the amount of
water you should use
based on your grain amount,
and the sparge technique chosen.
For today's recipe we are brewing a
simple mild ale, with 8.75 pounds of malt.
So, we'll be adding 5.7 gallons
of water to the system.
After your water has been added,
place the grain basket inside The Foundry.
Next, if you have the optional
Recirculation Kit, set that up now.
To do this, hookup the
short piece of tubing
from the valve on the Foundry to
the center inlet port of the pump.
Secure the tubing with two
of the included clamps.
Next, take the longer piece of tubing and
connect it to the side
outlet port of the pump.
On the other end, insert the curved
stainless steel return arm and then
secure both ends of the tubing
with the included clamps.
Now, add the flow restrictor valve
to the tubing then rest the piece of
tubing on the Foundry handle.
Now we're all set to brew, let's begin.
To get started, make sure the
Foundry is plugged in.
Next, turn the big red switch on
the side of the Foundry to ON.
Now the Foundry controller should
be lit up and ready to set.
The controller has two
temperature readings displayed.
ACT or, actual,
is the current temperature
reading of the water.
SET represents the temperature
you want the water to be.
For our brew day, we want our
mash temperature to be 153.
To account for the loss of heat,
after the grain is added we will set
the initial strike temp to 159.
To increase or decrease your desired temp
on the controller, simply
press the plus or minus
buttons on the left side of the controller
'til your desired temp is reached.
To lock in the set temp,
simply stop pressing the controls and
the set temp will go
from flashing to static.
That means your temperature is locked in.
Next, Anvil recommends setting the
power percentage to 100% during the mash.
This power percentage
allows you to dial in
your heat setting, and
is really useful during
the boil process as you can really dial in
the intensity of your boil.
Now, after the temp has been set,
you can sit back and relax and wait
for the water to heat up.
We waited about 45 minutes for our water
to reach our strike temp of 159.
After your strike temp has been reached,
go back to the controller and decrease
the set temp to your target mash temp
using the minus button.
Next, add your grains
slowly to the Foundry.
Making sure to stir as the grain is added
to avoid any dough balls forming.
After the grain has been added,
wait 10 minutes before recirculation.
This allows the grain bed in the Foundry
to settle, and form the perfect mash bed.
After the 10 minutes is up,
finish setting up the Recirculation Kit.
To do this, place the perforated screen
on the top of the Foundry grain basket.
Next, place the stainless steel
return arm into the hole on the lid.
Rest the lid on the handle
as shown in this shot.
It should rest comfortably in place.
After the lid is in place,
open the valve on the Foundry to allow
the wort to flow into the pump head.
Then, flip the switch on the pump
to begin the recirculation.
The wort should now be flowing through
the tubing and being returned to
the Foundry through the mash screen.
You can reduce the flow
rate of the recirculation
by tightening down on the
flow restrictor valve.
You don't want too fast recirculation,
as it can cause a stuck
mash in your Foundry,
and it'll produce a lot of
splashing on the mash screen.
During the mash,
Anvil recommends raking the top third
of the mash bed every 15 minutes.
You can do this by turning off the pump,
and removing the perforated mash screen
and stirring with a mash paddle.
After raking the grain bed,
put the screen back on,
and turn the pump back
on to continue the recirculation.
At the end of your mash,
turn off the pump and remove
the perforated mash screen.
Now, place the included grain basket rack
into the Foundry and
lift up the grain basket.
Once the grain basket
has cleared the rack,
rotate the basket so the tabs and the
basket rest comfortably on the rack.
In this step, you can
either let the grain basket
drain and then move on to your boil,
or you can incorporate a sparge step.
To sparge, simply pour hot water slowly
over the grain bed and let it drain.
The documentation provided
by Anvil gives you
a good guide on how much sparge
water to use during this step.
While draining, set
your controller to boil
by pressing the plus
button until you reach 212.
Now, you just boil your wort as usual.
Add your hops, and enjoy
a home brew or two.
Once the boil has 15 minutes left,
hook up the included
immersion wort chiller
to a cold water source, then place it in
the Foundry for the last 15 minutes
of the boil to sanitize the chiller.
After the boil is over,
turn off the control unit
and turn on your cold water source.
Let the wort cool down to around
72 to 75 degrees or, whatever your
desired fermentation temperature is.
After you've reached
your target temperature,
transfer the wort into
your primary fermentor.
If using the Recirculation Kit,
you can utilize the pump to transfer the
wort without the need of a siphon.
And that's it!
Now you just got to clean up,
and you're ready to brew your next batch.
(bouncy upbeat music)
