Welcome back to Sipa's garage.
In this video we continue working on my winter e39.
Well this isn't the e39.
But the diff from that.
I pulled this down after the last video. My battery run out so I don't have any video of that.
But nothing special in that.
The CV-joint was already off from it.
So it was just driveshafts and 3 bolts.
And this dropped off.
So I took this off.
To convert this to LSD.
Nothing is more annoying than drive rear wheel drive BMW that gets stuck on every traffic lights, spinning only one wheel when it's slippery.
Like the 520i that one I had for two previous winters.
It was always spinning just one tire when trying to get it moving.
Which is really annoying.
So to prevent that, I'm going to convert this to LSD one.
Which could be interesting to many of you.
I have studied this and it looks like it could be possible to mount regular typ188 LSD inside one of these. Maybe not direct bolt-on but still.
Even thought this is typ188k.
So this is bit different than older typ188
So it isn't probably direct bolt-on.
I did measure things and it looks like bearings sit at same locations etc. Those are different but could be swapped.
Maybe some spacer would be required for the ring gear.
But it should at least go here after changing bearings.
But those are nowadays really expensive.
It seems that those LSD diffs or just LSD units go for 600€
Which is way to much. Especially when I paid less for the whole car.
So because that is so expensive, lets not do that this time.
Instead I bought this racing diffs conversion set to convert this open diff to LSD.
This is bit smaller packet than I thought.
It has instructions.
Stickers.
Couple of these blocks.
As far as I understand these springs go here.
Like this.
This is supposed to go inside regular open diff.
This also has small frictions discs.
This is also supposed to have ramp angles.
When these rotate against each other, the ramp angles are supposed to press the friction discs.
So that is what I got.
But this looked much bigger in picture than this is now when I got this in my hand.
Like really tiny.
Lets see how those work.
And also mounting these isn't bolt-on.
But this did only cost about third of what proper typ188 LSD costs.
So hopefully this is enough for winter beater.
These are so small that I don't think that these can handle lot of power.
But I would guess that at least with winter tires in snow these are enough. And that's ok for me.
So lets install this.
And this set ins't only thing we need.
Because this diff is built differently and there aren't those bolts that hold these sides in.
So
So new side seals are mandatory when doing this kind of thing.
So here are these big seals that are behind drive flange.
These get destroyed every time you open one of these diffs.
So that's why you need new ones of these.
These particular ones have been on the shelves for at least 5 years so it's good to get these in use finally.
And just that you get idea how small these LSD conversion parts are.
These here are normal typ188 LSD parts.
Friction discs and dog plates that are totally destroyed.
But anyways you see the size.
And here is the racing diffs conversion set.
Here is the friction disc from that and here is regular friction disk.
The size difference is huge.
This goes inside.
So when these bigger ones aren't enough in more powerful car.
Then compare that to these.
I'm sure that these are better than no LSD at all.
But if you have car with quite powerful engine.
And you are serious about getting non slipping LSD.
I'm willing to bet that these aren't going to cut it.
If 4 of these is required for that.
Or at least good condition discs and not ones that look like this.
But yeah. Surface area difference is big.
But as I said this is going to winterbeater. If it doesn't slip when there is snow, it's enough for me.
This proper LSD costs about 600€
And modify that to fit would be really expensive.
So I guess this is the correct solution for this car.
But to get going, let's drain out the oil and remove the rear cover.
Then remove drive flanges.
Then after removing the seals, there is clips and when those are away the open diff falls to my lap.
So lets get to work.
Oil looks good. It's dark but otherwise ok.
No metal shavings there, which is good sign.
Well small correction..
The oil was clean indeed. But probably only because car was sitting so long time.
In reality the diff was full of metal dust and it was everywhere. As you can see in this part where is dripping off the bearing when I'm cleaning it.
The side bearings and the teeth were ok. So I'm guessing those are from pinion bearings.
Because that metal dust needs to come somewhere.
So I'm guessing I need to open this diff once more for bearing replacement.
But well. Lets continue.
This diff was not this clean when it was in the car.
I did spend quite a long time cleaning this yesterday with pressure washer.
This was covered in so thick grime and dirt that you couldn't see these fins here.
So this totally needed to be cleaned before opening this. But I will let it drain now.
Then the annoying step which is removing these big clips. Because there is no bolts holding on this.
So I need to remove this.
And because there is not that separate cover that would include the shims.
So the shim is actually this clip.
And these are different thicknesses. So don't mix up these.
This actually says 3.88 in this clip.
Which is the thickness of this shim/clip.
So don't mix up these.
And as said, these can be annoying to remove.
I can say that these have never come off that easily.
But maybe it's because of practice.
But this bearing though that it's good idea to drop in.
Fuck me.
How I can get up there.
And getting this out has been quite interesting task.
Last time it must have taken like 15 minutes.
Oh it was that easy.
I'm just stupid.
I can now move this aside, because I don't need to touch this.
And start with this.
Then the instructions tell to measure this distance here.
It looks to be..
27mm
It should be 32mm for this.
That means I need to take 2,5 mm from each of those differential gears.
So I need to take that apart next.
Help!
It was that loose.
I think these are supposed to be like bearings of some kind.
And thickness of this is.
How much is this.
28mm
So that means..
I need to make that 25.5mm
What the instructions say.
Grind the main gears....using surface grinder
Okay.
Grinding should...precise lathe..
Okay..
Surface grinder or precise lathe.
This says 2.45mm
I did measure 2.5mm
Well close.
But where I do find the thing to grind down this..
And the other one goes on top.
Damn you are not allowed to rotate on floor.
Does this fit?
Or too loose?
No it's ok.
Will it explode now?
Do I need to grind those more.
It should be right size.
Now it went in. Something was in the way.
Feels just right.
No need to "machine" those more.
There was you explosion.
That was the explosion?
Yeah that was it.
? That was your bang.
Didn't hear anything.
Yeah.
Did the bolt snap?
Maybe little.
They have made notch there so that this can be slid in.
Yeah that went in easy.
Yeah. But first time removing these took 15 minutes.
Last job was to take some material off the drive flanges. But I forgot to film that.
But instructions say what to do.
Then traditionally 75...
Wait a sec. Wrong oil..
I was going to say that this diff needs 75w-140 limited slip differential oil now.
And not the regular 75w-90 oil.
And after oil, it was time to bolt back the diff.
And tada! We have LSD in e39.
Only thing to install was the driveshaft and exhaust and it starts to be ready for MOT inspection.
This jack really helps our lives.
Did you put copper paste to that bolt also?
