Hi, I'm Wade from Thoroughbred Diesel, and
today we're going to be putting a Banks Derringer
and iDash on a 2018 GMC L5P Duramax.
I wanted to show one thing on the trace here
that I didn't get a chance to do.
The ... Sorry.
So this truck making its peak torque at about
55 miles an hour, right in that range there,
you're going to be running 380-390 horsepower
right there.
It's peak horsepower comes in there just shy
of 68 miles an hour.
Torque is dropping off there.
So a really, really nice torque curve on this
truck, it makes power well, and it felt good
on the dyno too, had to break back in and
wanted to show you the curve on that.
So now let's go ahead and get started with
our installation.
Okay.
Our first step on our installation before
we start installing our Derringer is go ahead
and we're going to remove the negative battery
cables on both batteries.
One thing about Chevrolets is they finally
gotten their battery cables in a configuration
that the negatives are actually easy to get
to now.
The first harness that we're going to start
with after we've got our negative cables off
the battery is our map sensor and our fuel
rail pressure sensor harness from Banks.
Banks actually tags this with the sensors
that it's supposed to go to.
So you see map and fuel rail pressure sensor,
so you really can't mess it up, and it's pretty
easy.
I want to say another note about this because
this truck came on with a different module
on it.
I had to remove the module before putting
the Banks on.
The first thing that I had to do there is
I had to go after the fuel rail pressure sensor.
Now the fuel rail pressure sensors on an L5P
Duramax are on the passenger side, they're
in a really, really bad position, you've got
to kind of contort your hands to get to it,
so it took me an extra 10 or 15 minutes just
to get that electrical connector unhooked.
So with that being said, the nice thing about
the Banks is the fuel rail pressure sensor
hookup that we're going to attack is going
to be right here on the top of the air intake,
so super, super simple to get to, and we'll
cut back in and get started on that.
All right.
So again, two sensors that we're working with
here.
We're going to be working with the map sensor,
temperature and map sensor, intake air temperature
and map sensor, and then the fuel rail pressure
sensor.
That's this drop right here.
Now, like I was saying, when I got this truck
it already had another module on it and what
had happened is the safety clip on this they
had already broken it and they actually had
it right back in here and upside down.
With the safety clip off of here you can still
use the connector because it's still going
to go on and lock, but to release the map
sensor, we just push on the back of it here,
there's one tab right there, I think Adam
can see that, I'll push to it with my tool,
and then you just simply push that down and
then that will disconnect your map sensor.
All right, so we're going to go ahead and
hook our map sensor up at the Banks harness.
It's marked map right here.
Go ahead and reinstall that.
And in fact, on Banks' harness, they don't
use a safety tab back, so that worked out
good for us in this situation.
Now our female side, we want to hook back
to our stock harness.
It goes one way.
There you are, push it to clips and you're
good to go.
Now let's go after our fuel rail sensor.
It has a safety clip here in the center of
it.
Just use a little pick like that to disengage
it.
I'll show you how to do that again.
Just the backside of it and push and you're
good.
Then you can push down and slide the connector
out.
Don't pull on the wires, make sure that you
pull on the connector.
So we go back to our harness and we go with
the one that says fuel rail pressure sensor.
So male to male here, two clips and push your
safety connector back up and your female end
will go back and it'll push until it clips,
no safety harness on that side.
So the way I'm going to route this, I'm going
to route this along our stock wiring location
back here.
I want to actually go ... You know what, I'm
not going to do that.
I'm going to go along with this wiring harness.
I'm going to bring this along this wiring
harness right here and down and over there.
So I'm going to take a few minutes and I'm
going to go ahead and zip tie this down along
this wiring harness, I'm going to come, hopefully
end up back in here somewhere to hook up my
Derringer module.
All right.
I wanted to talk just a little bit about my
wiring routing.
Adam can show you here, we ran along the stock
wiring harness.
There is a catalytic converter at the back
of the turbo there.
I didn't want to run along that cat harness
because there's going to be heat there.
The Chevrolet has heat reflective tape on
that wiring harness, I knew that that was
going to be another issue there.
I don't have that on my wiring harness.
So we've come over here into this area and
I've found a final place to put our Derringer
module itself.
One thing I want to talk about on this is
there is a red O ring that goes on this side,
that's for later, but I want to make sure
that I talk about this, when you get your
Derringer out make sure that you watch for
those O rings, they could be on the male side
of this, female side of that, this one was
in my package so I just want to make sure
that you watch out for that one.
So now we're going to go ahead and hook our
wiring harness up to the Derringer module
itself, just plugs into the bottom like this.
All right.
This is our control wire that goes inside
to our iDash, if you got the switch, it would
be the switch.
But now I wanted to talk about that rubber
O ring, so it goes on the male end right here
for easy installation on this cord, so we're
going to go ahead and attach our control cord
to our iDash itself.
And you can see inside of the Derringer, there
are two lugs here at the top.
There are recesses in your other wiring harness,
just go ahead and make your recesses match
up there.
And then you want it switched to unlock and
then to lock it you just simply pull down
like that with your thumb and you've got a
nice tight connection.
Now I'm going to get the weather, I came over
here and I didn't have the weather enclosure
for that, I'm going to grab that real quick
and be right back.
We have another little terminating cap that
comes with the Derringer itself, if you don't
have any expansion things that you're going
to be running here, EGT probe, so on, you
just put your terminating cap in same way
and then flip your lock down and then you've
got a nice, secure and a protected connector
for your Derringer module itself.
This end of this is going to go inside of
the cab to our iDash itself.
So what I'm going to do now is I'm just going
to take a few zip ties, I'm going to zip tie
it up right here, it doesn't really need to
be very fancy, I've just got to get this wire
inside of the cab now.
We're putting our controller wire through
the firewall now.
If you've ever done this on a Chevrolet, you
know that this job basically sucks.
So what we're going to do is we're going to
just go ahead and feed this through the grommet
and pushing it around the grommet.
So a couple of different ways to do that.
What I like to do is just kind of get the
grommet started with my thumbs, down, and
then I just continue to feed the wire in like
so.
Now as I'm doing this, what really helps is
to have someone on the inside catching the
wire for you.
All right, on the interior of the truck, when
you're catching the wiring harness coming
through from the engine bay, it's easiest
just to take the cover off of this panel cover,
or take the panel cover off, I apologize,
unlatch it, there's two latches on the right
side and one on the bottom, and then just
pull straight down like that.
Then your main wiring harness grommet will
be right there and you can feel the wire coming
through from the exterior.
So we've got our wire here and got it through.
Again it's just so much easier if you've got
somebody that's able to help you do this.
There's really not a whole lot that we can
feel in there, it's just one of those things
you just got to kind of grab it and [inaudible
00:10:06], still got our cover off.
So I've got Sam out there helping me, we're
going to go ahead and pull as much of this
wire through as we can until the Derringer
is actually close to the firewall there and
then Sam will let me know when that's all
I've got.
Okay.
All right.
And that little bit of extra cord I'll tie
up in there.
So my routing is going to be here to the pod.
So that's going to give us plenty of that.
Now we're just going to go ahead and throw
our cover back on this panel.
Okay.
So we're going to go ahead and actually mount
the Derringer unit right now.
I've seen it mounted on this cross bar, I
just ... there's going to be vibration there,
so I don't want that.
I'm not saying that it's necessarily a bad
place to mount it, but I'm going to go a different
direction.
I'm going to go back to my main wiring harness
here and what I'm going to do is I'm just
going to go ahead and zip tie it to keep it
from falling down and getting in steering
column or the steering shaft or anything like
that.
So I'm not reinventing the wheel here, I'm
just trying to keep it from moving from there.
So that really finishes our under the hood
part of it, except for doing our battery cables.
So now we've got our cord into the cab, so
let's move inside the cab.
With this truck going to be receiving an iDash,
we're going to go ahead and hook up the OBD2
cable.
So your OBD2 cable, just plug her straight
into the OBD2 and then we will route it with
the cable for the Derringer itself right up
through here.
So we're going to be taking both of these
wires.
These panels just be real careful with them.
I started at the bottom and then I run my
fingers up through there.
They pop out all the way.
I don't know why my little backup fuses fell
out.
All right.
Now with that out, what we'll do is we will
just route both of these chords up and onto
the dash.
Excuse me.
I'm Sorry.
Kind of give it the distance I want.
This truck is getting a cut mounted mount
for lack of a better word.
All right, so now I'm going to bring the other
cord up and I'll put it in here too, shove
it back behind the weather stripping, shorten
it up where I want it, and then go ahead and
put my panel back on.
One of the final steps of our installation
here is we're going to go ahead and put our
negative cables back on the truck.
And with this, we are ready to dyno.
Now it's time to mount our iDash in the truck,
and what we've done, we've already put our
side panel back on, we've kind of got our
wires in the length that we're going to want
them.
I'm going to be using Banks' mounting cup
here, this is part number 63319 on this.
They also have a pillar pod for these L5Ps,
and we also call out what colors you should
get.
There's only two different colors on these
interior.
So what I'm going to do now is I'm going to
go ahead and I'm going to mount my cup and
inside of the cup installation package is
a alcohol prep pad, which you will need to
use to mount the cup.
So I want to kind of just gauge where I want
it.
I want it just north of the bottom of 
the handle.
Go ahead and clean it up with my prep pad,
where I'm going to go there.
While that's drying, I'll go ahead and take
my protective film off and what I'm also going
to do, while that's drying, is I'm going to
go ahead and run both of my wires into the
cup, just like so, leave myself about three
or four inches there.
Just another second for that to dry.
All right.
Once that's dry, we're going to go ahead and
mount it up where we think it should go there.
I'll try to give Adam a little bit of room,
press firm against it, and then just flip
the locking tab and that should have you mounted.
Now we're going to go ahead and connect our
iDash.
There is a six pin and a four pin prongs on
here.
You want to make sure that the expansion port
has got its blocker in it.
Now, when you go to put these wires on, don't
make the same mistake I did.
When I first installed it, I actually had
them on the four pin, you've got to have your
latches up because the four pin will go a
couple of different ways.
So these latches make sure they're up on both
of them.
Push them until they clip or until it ... And
when you touch a button that automatically
wakes it up there.
Let's turn the key on and then we'll turn
it back off real quick.
We can always reset by unhooking the OBD2
and then we'll put it back in.
It won't power up this time because the truck
is off.
So there is our iDash mounted, looking good.
So what we're going to do now is we will go
ahead and bring our wires back down and get
everything where we want it and then we're
going to cut everything where we want it and
zip tie everything up underneath the dash.
Then we'll show you some functionality of
this iDash.
All right, we're going to go ahead and show
you some of the functionality of the iDash
Derringer here.
And what we're going to do is right now with
the key on the Derringer or the iDash doesn't
come on, it does not come on until it start
seeing RPM.
So the trucks running, it comes on.
And first off let's talk about power levels.
If you've got a Derringer and you want to
switch through power levels, there's an up
and down arrow right here.
That'll totally take you to the different
power levels.
You can do it on the fly.
I'll go all the way back down to stock, it's
pretty awesome.
For the L5Ps, let's see what else have we
got here.
So if you push your right button, this gets
you out pretty much to the menu.
You've got your gauge layout, gauge selection.
Diagnostics is one thing I want to show you
here, on the diagnostics for vehicle, if you
want to go to the vehicle and that's where
you get your reading clear diagnostic codes,
so on, you can check injector balance rates.
One of the things that this also does is stationary
and mobile region, so you can actually force
region on these trucks, which is a really,
really nice feature.
If you want to go back out, you push left
and that takes you back out.
You've got your alert set up.
You can set it up for a shift light, banks
module, everything.
This thing's very, very powerful, it picks
up a ton of different parameters.
It's just awesome.
It's just really, really awesome.
So now it's time for the fun part, let's dyno.
Go ahead.
All right.
So we got a dyno run now with the Banks Derringer
on and you can see uncorrected it made exactly
what it said it was going to make, 460 horsepower,
921 foot pounds of torque, which was really,
really awesome.
The truck runs great with a Derringer on it.
I mean, it's really, really smooth.
Yeah, can't say enough good about it.
As far as the trace goes, your torque on this
truck still comes in just a little bit north
of 54 miles an hour, 55, 56 miles an hour.
Your highest horse power is coming in just
a little bit south of 68 miles an hour, so
67, 66 miles an hours.
Where it's making its most horsepower, that's
of course, obviously that's fourth gear one
to one.
But yeah, yeah, I did it.
I mean, you love to install products that
actually work and do the exact things that
they say they did.
Banks told us you're going to get 60 horsepower
out of this module, that's exactly what we
got out of it.
Perfect.
Truck ran great, loves it, responsive, everything.
So I'm Wade from Thoroughbred Diesel, been
a long time since we've done a Banks installation
video, we hope to change that.
If you have a question about this product
or any L5P questions, give us a call.
And as always, we appreciate it if you like
and subscribe to our channel.
Thanks for watching.
