hello I'm Aneka from Made to Sew and
welcome to my how to sew scrubs tutorial
over the last couple of weeks I have
been inundated with emails asking for
help and advice when it comes to sewing
scrubs and the details that you might
find in a pair of scrubs I know that a
number of you are sewing scrubs to your
local Health Service so firstly a huge
thank you for everything that you're
doing now I've put together this
tutorial where I'm going to be showing
you how to sew a scrubs top and a pair
of scrubs bottoms I've worked with a
women's wear pattern and I'll pop a link
to the pattern that I'm working with in
the description box below but the same
applies if you're working with a men's
pattern I've tried to cover different
techniques that you might find in a
variety of different patterns now this
is a long tutorial because I've put all
of it together in the same tutorial with
the idea that it acts as a resource for
you so in the description box below I
have gone through and clearly detailed
each of the techniques that I teach and
the time that you'll find that in the
video I do not expect you to go and
watch the whole of this tutorial I just
want you to be able to use it to help
you with a specific skill that perhaps
you're struggling with I share how to do
patch pockets inseam pockets how to sew
trousers together a waistband with
elastic or a draw cord then we move on
to the top where we do the sleeves side
seams with slits and two different
options for the neckline I show you how
to draft the neckline that you see here
for your pattern if you want to follow
my technique for this and how to sew it
and then how to do a more simple
standard v-neck the idea being that you
could come back to this tutorial as you
need I know that a number of you are
sewing scrubs in groups so do feel free
to share your group that you're working
with in the comment section below
hopefully you might be able to connect
with other people in your area you're
going to want to grab some cotton fabric
and I'm working with a thread that is
contrasting so that you can hopefully
see my stitching but you're going to
want to work with a thread that matches
your fabric and the pattern that you
choose to work with throughout the
tutorial I show you options for how to
finish the edges whether that
be using the overlocker or serger or if
you want to use a flat felled seam or
French seam because perhaps you don't
have access to an overlock or a serger
if you're going to do a flat felled seam
or a French seam you may wish to change
the seam allowance on your pattern so do
think about that before you begin now
let's go and cut our fabric out I'm
going to presume that you're happy with
cutting out your fabric now I've gone
ahead and pre-washed my fabric and given
it a good steam with the iron I folded
it in half with the right sides together
and pinned my selvage edges together
then I have laid on my pattern pieces
and I've made sure that the grain line
is parallel to either the folded edge or
the selvage edge at both the top and the
bottom and obviously you're going to
need to look at the details on your
pattern to know whether you're cutting
two whether you're cutting it on the
fold or whether it's not on the fold go
ahead and cut out your pattern pieces
using either pins and scissors or
weights and a rotary cutter if you
prefer once you've cut out your pattern
pieces you're going to want to record
some of the markings you can either clip
into the notches on the pattern you can
use carbon paper and a tracing wheel
to record the notches and to record any
other details such as the pocket
placement or you can use thread tracing
or tailors tacks to complete the same
technique once you've cut out your
fabric you can continue the preparation
by cutting out the interfacing pieces
that your pattern requires and fuse this
or iron this onto those corresponding
pieces now you've cut out and prepared
all your fabric the next step is to
consider the stitch that you're going to
use to sew the scrubs together and how
you're going to finish those seam
allowances the feedback that I've
received is that the edges of the fabric
need to be finished with an overlocker or serger and they can't be
simply zigzagged
I believe this is due to the garments
being washed at high temperatures if you
have access to a serger or overlocker
you can obviously complete one of these
techniques you can either sew press open
your seam allowances you can serge the
edges of your fabric before or after you
have sewn the seam or
you can do this technique where I've
sewn it and I have serged the seam
answers together I'm going to be serging
or overlocking in this tutorial simply
because it's quicker however if you
don't have access to a serger or
overlocker
you could do a flat felled seam and my
sister that sent me some pictures of her
scrubs all of them have a flat felled
seam because the scrubs are actually
reversible and you can use the seam
either way up there are a number of
different ways of doing this you can do
a fake flat felled seam you can do a
flat felled seam using a foot or you can
do it and follow the instructions that
I've got in a separate tutorial which
I'm going to link here this is just one
of the methods but hopefully it will
help you if you don't have access to a
serger or overlocker we're going to
begin by looking at how to sew the
pockets or patch pockets because I'm
presuming that you have a few pockets to
sew on both the pants and trousers and
on the top of the scrubs that you're
making the first tip that I would like
to share is that I want you to make a
template of your pockets so this is the
pocket without seam allowances if you
have a pattern piece you could simply
cut off the seam allowances and you can
make this in card or in paper the reason
why this is useful is it means it helps
us to achieve perfect pockets so all of
your pockets if you have more than one
will be the exact same size and you'll
have nice sharp edges place your fabric
with the wrong side facing up and take
your template line it up so that you
have the right seam allowances in the
right place for me I've got one
centimeter or 3/8 along the sides and
the hem and three centimeters along the
top edge you're going to then iron the
seam allowances around the template
keeping the corners nice and neat by
just folding it like so
the reason why we complete this step is
when you remove the template you have
nice creases showing the edges of the
pocket on the sides top edge and bottom
edge now we want to finish this top edge
of the pocket neatly creating what I've
done here already on this one the first
thing you're going to want to do is you
need to press under this very top edge
of the pocket again so in my pattern
it's asked for a one centimeter 3/8
press and then along my fold line it
would be 2 centimeters or 3/4 of an inch
yours might be different it might be 5
mil or it might be a quarter inch along
this very top edge you can of course use
a ruler to check that that you are
pressing this correctly once you've
pressed under the top edge you're going
to turn the pocket around so that you've
got the right side facing up and what
we're then going to do is to fold the
pocket along the top edge with the right
sides facing each other along that top
line of the pocket now you can use your
templates here again if you want to
matching up the bottom edge of the
pockets and then you would be able to
press the top edge over itself like so
leaving that small amount that you've
press towards the wrong side on the very
top edge of the pockets this will hold
everything in place while we go to the
sewing machine at the sewing machine I
want you to sew across this crease at
the sides from the top folded edge of
the pocket down to where this piece of
fabric ends so you're only going to be
sewing for in my case two centimeters
it's three quarters of an inch and I'm
going to do that on both sides until you
get something that looks like this now
I've gone ahead and sewn on both of
these sides here whether it is a back
stitch at the start and at the end I'm
going to turn this around now so that
you can see I've also over locked or
surged the three other edges of my
pocket you are welcome to do this
however I'm only doing this on one of
these pockets to show you as a sample
that it's an option my sister's pockets
in her scrubs none
were overlocked resurged on the inside
so I don't believe you need to turn this
around to the right side by folding on
the edge of that stitching and turning
it through and you can use a point
turner or a little shot tool just to
poke out that little corner do that on
both sides and then the final step is to
pop your template back in and give it a
nice good press especially around that
top edge because what we're going to do
next is go to the Machine and stitch
along this top edge so with this one I
haven't obviously overlocked will search
the edges that's fine and I want you to
sew about two to three millimeters away
all the way along this top edge here you
can join me at the Machine and I will
show you how I do this you want to sew
an accurate even distance all the way
along the top of the pocket ideally you
want to be sewing approximately 1/8 or 2
to 3 millimeters away from this folded
edge I tend to sew this with the wrong
side of the pockets facing up so that
you can check your sewing this
accurately you can of course use pins to
hold this down now I'm using an edge
stitching foot here which I think is one
of the easiest options and I'm lining up
that middle part of the edge stitching
foot with the fold of the fabric and
I've moved my needle slightly so that
I'm stitching the desired distance away
you can also use the edge of your
presser foot and the edge of your
presser foot when you move the needle
whatever works for your machine of
course you could sew this from the top
side of the pocket as well
and work out the semantics that you want
to follow now I've pulled both of my
threads out of the machine bed to make
sure that they don't get caught up on
the right side I've positioned my needle
in right close to that side edge of the
pocket and I'm going to begin with a
small forwards and then backwards just
to secure it and then I'm going to sew
all the way along making sure that I'm
lining everything up
I'm using a standard 2.5 millimeter
stitch lengths but you can increase your
stitch length if you want for this top
stitching when you get to the edge
you're going to want to sew as close to
the edge of the pocket as you can again
suing one back stitch to secure it and
there you go trim your threads for a
neat finish so the pockets been stitched
across the top edge the final thing we
need to do to prepare this to be
attached to the garment is to turn it
over wrong side facing up and perfect
these corners at the moment they're a
little bit bulky so we're going to miter
them open up the seam allowances and
what you want to do here is to fold in
the corner at an angle so that you're
almost folding in a triangle shape you
want to match up the crease that you can
see in the corner with the crease of the
seam allowance here and the same along
the bottom once you've done that you can
then refold up the bottom and the side
seam allowances and you should get
something that looks like this press in
the angle matching up the creases like
so and then fold up the bottom of the
pocket and the side of the pocket
pressing it in once more and checking
that you have a nice shape to the corner
of your pockets from the right side I
recommend that you prepare all of your
pockets to this stage and now you can
attach them all to the areas of the
garment this is batch sewing and will
really speed up the process for you so
you should have marked points on your
garment where the pocket needs to be
placed you may have marked them with
thread throw tracing tailors tacks you
can use chalk you can even draw the box
of the pocket if you want to a really
good tip if you're new to this is to cut
with the pocket out of the pattern lay
the pattern onto the back of the
trousers and then you can simply draw
around the pocket placement with chalk
or a removable pad
then you can position your pocket on
like so match everything up and make
sure that the other side is symmetrical
you can pin this in place or head
straight to the machine without any pens
if you have chalk lines guiding you here
is one that I've already completed you
can join me at the sewing machine in a
minute for a step by step of this the
key here is that we're going to be
stitching around the sides and the
bottom edge of the pockets close to the
edge of the pocket so sort of two
millimeters away a sixteenth to an
eighth of an inch depending on what you
feel comfortable with you are going to
begin along this horizontal stitching
line so you going to begin at this
corner here you're going to have to
stitch away and this width of the
stitching along the top edge is only one
centimeter 3/8 from the side of the
pocket so you begin on the edge of the
pockets where it meets the horizontal
line you stitch out to the top edge one
centimeter away from the side of the
pocket along the top edge then you
stitch down the side turning at the
corners along the bottom back up one
centimeter along the top edge and then a
diagonal line back to that horizontal
line again you can do a back stitch I
tend to do one or two stitches maximum
forwards and backwards to secure it
hopefully you understand the stitch that
you're going to need to complete around
your pocket now I recommend that you
watch this section first if you are new
to sewing pockets on and then perhaps
complete it with me so we're going to
begin at this corner here where the
horizontal stitching line that we made
on the pocket meets the side of the
pocket so I need to turn my work around
and I'm going to end up with a bit of
work in my machine but we have to sew
all the way around so that's not
preventable I'm going to lower my needle
so that it is in the position that I
want it to be in and I'm going to put my
foot down so that the front of my foot
is aiming towards the top edge of the
pocket one centimeter away from the
corner
now if you remember we have to show this
diagonal line first you are welcome to
draw it on with chalk if you want I have
marked in chalk the one centimeter from
the edge of my pocket and you can do
that with a pin as well if you prefer
I've just tried to make this clear for
the tutorial now I'm working with my
edge stitching foot and I find that when
I teach my customers actually prefer
using this foot because they get more
accurate results around the rest of the
pocket however I often use a standard
foot and you're welcome to use a
standard firts use the edge of your foot
move your needle have a play with what
works for you
predominantly we want to be selling
close to the edge of the pocket and you
will see that in a second this first
section we're just going to be sewing on
the pocket itself on that diagonal line
so at the moment my needle is in line
with the front part of my edge stitching
foot I'm gonna sew one stitch forwards
and backwards to secure it making sure
that my threads are out the way and then
I'm going to sew on the angle following
the front part of my foot here where me
your needle reaches the top edge of the
pocket you want the stitches around the
pocket to be about 1/16 to 1/8 away so
sort of two millimeters away you kind of
calls so a different distance away you
can see wider distance if you prefer
it's up to you and obviously what you're
making now you want to stop with your
needle right in the exact position at at
the top of the pocket so sitting a 16 2
and eights away from the pocket edge 2
millimeters then I can raise my foot and
turn my work so that I'm going to be
stitching across at the top of that
pocket for one centimeter you can of
course use the hand wheel on your
machine to sort of fake the last stitch
to get it in the right place I'll show
you that in a second
now sewing along the top edge of the
pocket and for the rest of the pocket if
you're using an edge stitching foot I
could move my needle so I'm going to
move it to positions to the left meaning
that now when I so I'm going to be
stitching exactly a sixteenth traits
away from the pocket edge and I can line
up this front of my foot with the edge
of the pocket and this is where the edge
stitching foot is really useful so we
saw that centimeter needle in
lift the foot and turn so that we can
continue down at the side of the pocket
and I'm just lining up the pocket edge
with the front part of my foot here
obviously if you're using a different
foot that's totally fine you can use the
edge of your foot you can move the
needle position really work with
whatever helps you to get an accurate
finish I'm going to sew down the side
with the aim to stop at that bottom
corner and pivot and turn so if you
think you're coming and you might be one
stitch too far this is where you can use
your hand wheel on the machine because I
can simply turn that forwards to do one
stitch and if that stitch is too big I
can choose slightly by lifting my
presser foot and putting the needle down
where I want it to go and then turn the
corner you also might have a one stitch
button on your machine so we're going to
sew along the bottom if you sew a stitch
too far you can simply turn the
handwheel backwards to bring that stitch
back out pivot and turn at the next
corner making sure that the needles
right in the right place and sew up the
final side of the pocket you can use
pins you can use the chalk lines like I
shared with you to make sure that your
pocket is in the right place now we're
going to sew up to the top edge make
sure that the needle is finishing right
in position I might have to make my
stitch slightly shorter turn and sew
across for one centimeter I've got a
little truck there to show me and then I
can lift and turn and now I'm gonna want
to put my foot back down with the front
of my foot pointing towards where the
horizontal line that you previously
stitched on your pocket is and I'm going
to want to lift my needle because I need
to put my needle back into the center
line just for ease and you don't have to
do this you can of course keep your
needle in the position even if you're
using the edge stitching foot it's just
sometimes easier for it to be in line
with the front parts of the foot because
then I know I'm sewing in the right
place
when you get to the end you can back
stitch one stitch and then pull your
work out just like so next we're going
to move on to the inseam pockets which
you may or may not have in your scrubs
try as a pattern now this is the inseam
pockets from the right side so I've sewn
the pocket and I've also sewn the side
seam attaching the front and the back
tries our legs together let me show you
this from the wrong side as well I have
used an overlocker or serger to finish
both the side seam and also the pocket
I'm going to share this method of sewing
the pocket with a rectangle rather than
just having the pocket opening out of
the side seam this is because it will
allow you to sew the pocket on the side
seam out the use of an overlock or
serger so you would be able to sew the
pocket using a French seam and I have a
tutorial that shows you how to do that
if you're interested and with this
method we could then flat felled seam
the side seam of the trousers take your
front trouser piece and position it with
the right side facing up take your
pocket bag for the front it might be the
all your pocket bags are the same that's
fine and you're going to place it right
side down so the right sides are
together using your common sense when it
comes to the shape of the pocket bag
you're going to put your hand into it
use your markings on the side seam and
match up where the pocket should be
positioned and you're going to match up
the two edges of the pocket and of your
side seam now you might have a pocket
that looks like mine if you using the
same pattern as me with this sort of
rectangle cut out or you might have a
pocket pattern that has a straight edge
either is fine if you're using a pocket
pattern that has a straight edge then
your pocket is going to come out of the
side seam all this will mean is that it
would prevent you from doing a flat
felled seam you can still over lock or
search if you have the same pattern as
me your pocket is going to create this
opening or you're welcome to do this to
your pattern if you like the look of it
or if you want to have the ability to do
a flat felled seam hopefully you can see
the chalk line that I've drawn on here
this is going to be my stitching line so
I'm actually going to be following the
pocket shake that rectangle so I'll be
sewing from the side seam one centimeter
which is my seam allowance 3/8 turning
the corner and then one centimeter from
the pocket edge turning the corner again
to come back to the side seam you can do
that with your pocket if you would like
you're going to want to start and end on
the same markings that your pocket has
given you and you would just be that
rather than sewing your seam allowance
from the edge you would come in a little
bit further
for example I've come in two centimeters
from the edge or side seam of the fabric
the first one centimeter would be the
seam allowance
the second one centimeter or 3/8 is this
extra rectangle to give the opening like
you've got here I have gone ahead and I
sewed my pocket on using the rectangle
method you may have chosen a different
method now if you're doing the rectangle
method like I've done here the next step
is we going to need to cut directly into
the corner as close to the stitching as
you can but not through the stitching
you need to be brave here because if you
don't cut close enough you won't get a
nice corner when we turn this around in
a second and you're going to do this on
both sides you're cutting through both
layers of fabric once you've cut into
both corners you're then going to turn
your pocket bag around and we're going
to give it a press and what we need to
do here is to work it so that we're
creating that rectangle gap that's going
to be the gap of the pocket so you just
need to cautiously turn the pocket on
the inside if your corners are looking
puckered it's probably because you have
not cut close enough press the seam
allowances open first and then you
should be able to get a really nice
crisp finish around the pocket edge
making sure that you can just see
a seam allowance from the pocket side
meaning you won't be able to see
anything from the front of the garment
now the pocket is pressed we're going to
head to the sewing machine and we are
going to top stitch around this opening
the distance that you choose to top
stitch is up to you but remember that
you do need to leave enough seam
allowance to be able to sew the second
pocket bag on which is a centimeter so
I'm top stitching very close about 1/16
to 1/8 away so total of 2 millimeters
and that's in line with the patch
pockets and everything else I would
recommend when you top stitch your
garment that you try to be consistent
with your distances one thing you do
want to think about if you don't have
access to an overlocker the seam
allowance is here if you have access to
an overlock or serger you can simply
over lock or Serge them together just
like I've done on this example if
however you're making these without an
overlocker or serger what I would
recommend is that you press both of the
seam allowances over towards the pocket
so that they meet the stitching if your
seam allowances are both the same length
you may want to stagger them like I've
got here and we're gonna press that over
and then press the pocket back on itself
it does add a little bit of bulk to that
pocket edge but what it will mean is
that when you do your stitching around
in a second your top stitching it holds
those seam allowances in place and will
prevent them from fraying if you have a
pocket with a straight edge you would be
welcome to under Stitch that pocket at
this time now because you're not going
to be able to top stitch it like we're
going to do with this rectangle opening
in that case all you do with your pocket
is you push the seam allowances towards
the pocket and under stitching is when
we're going to be stitching on the
pockets catching the seam allowances and
sewing close to the seam that joins the
pocket to the trousers and you would
just do that between the pocket opening
all that does is it helps to keep the
pocket staying inside the garment so
it's a nice little added extra if you're
unsure about under stitching I will be
covering it later on
get to the necklines section to top
stitch the rectangle opening I'm using
my edge stitching foot with the needle
in the same position as I used for
sewing on the patch pockets so that I'm
nice and consistent you're going to
stitch and then turn it around the
corner with a needle in lift the foot
and sew down at the length of the pocket
opening and turn around the bottom
corner as well if you are doing edge
stitching because you have a pocket that
is in the seam rather than this
rectangle opening you can also use your
edge stitching foot to help you get a
nice accurate finish there the next step
is to sew the pocket bags together you
want to place the right sides of both
pocket bags together lining up all of
the edges you're welcome to pin this or
you can head straight to the sewing
machine and you are going to sew all the
way around from the edge all the way
around the curve back to the other edge
just attaching the pocket bags together
not sewing through the front of the
trousers usual seema lamps that you're
working with mine is one centimeter 3/8
I have sewed around the outside of the
two pockets to join them together and I
have also surged or overlocked around
the edge of mine if you don't have
access to an overlocker or surgery you
could do a French seam here instead the
next step is to join the side seam
together so the side seam of the front
and the back I'm so right sides together
and then you are going to sew along the
side seam here I would recommend sewing
from the hem up that's my usual practice
and I've got a 1 centimeter 3/8 seam
allowance this is where if you don't
have access to an overlook or serger you
could do a flat felled seam here in that
case you would position the wrong side
of the fabric together and you would
need to follow a flat felled seam
tutorial simple straight forward seam
here you are just going to follow the
seam allowance in your pattern and you
can whiz all the way down the side seam
of the legs back stitching at the start
and at the ends
be cautious that you don't capture in
the pocket bag or any aspect of the
pocket opening that you shouldn't be
catching in when you saw over the
section can be a good idea to pin the
pocket bag to the front for trousers out
of the way now let's head to the
overlocker
to finish this edge I'm using my
overlocker with three threads and simply
the right needle making this width the
stitch as narrow as it can be and that's
generally what I do when I'm finishing
the edges of fabric now for this project
I am overlocking or searching the seam
allowances together you are welcome to
do them together all you're welcome to
do them separately if you're over
locking or surging your seam allowances
together you can do it relatively
closely to your stitching line on the
sewing machine I tend to use the machine
foot as a guide at the very front of
your foot on most over lockers or surges
there will be two sort of grooves or
raised parts now these are in line with
the needle position so you should have
one on the left and one on the right I
am only using the right needle when I'm
doing my three thread overlock to finish
the edges of the fabric so I'm going to
line up the stitching with the left
groove and then that means I'm
overlocking
relatively closely if you have over
locked or surged Leasing lancers
together press them towards the back and
then it's optional but if you like
you're welcome to top stitch along that
seam that you've pressed towards the
back I used my edge stitching foot and I
completed at the same distance that I
use for my patch pocket for consistency
but you're welcome to do any distance
that you like you can increase or change
your stitch length and you can also use
a double needle or twin needle if you
wanted to to create a fake flat felled
seam look I have also surged or
overlocked across the bottom hem of the
trousers you don't need to do that
because when we turn that up later you
can turn it under a second time but it's
optional if you want to over lock that
you're welcome to do so next we're going
to be sewing the front rise and the back
rise to join the two legs together
feel free to pin your pocket bags down
flat so that they can't get in the way
now front rise is just going to be the
right
of the fabric together and sewing around
this curve the same will happen with the
back rise sewing around this curve here
both of the crotches the front and the
back
have been sewn and then over locked or
surged pressing them towards the left
when you are looking at the wrong side
so I've pressed the front one towards
the left and the back one towards the
left when the garment is inside-out the
next app is to so the in theme so you're
going to be sewing the legs on the
inseam the rise or crotch now has the
seam elapses going in opposite
directions so that you don't have bulk
there you're going to match a seam and
you can sew from the ham on one leg all
the way along the inseam over the join
between the front and back rise and all
the way down the other leg to the hem
you can sew this and then over lock this
or surge this I've got a head and sewn
the inseam and overlocked all of the way
from the hem of the trousers on both
sides all the way around the crotch
and back down to the other side press
the seam allowance towards the back next
step is to hem the trousers
so you can either simply over lock the
hem and then press it up by the desired
amount on your pattern or like I've done
you can press it under once and then
twice and then there really isn't any
need for you to over lock this my
pattern has e three centimeter hem so
I've pressed under one centimeter and
then two centimeters in inches that
would be three eighths and then three
quarters and I have simply run that
through the sewing machine sewing close
to the top edge
the finest thing you need to finish with
the pants is be a waistband now my
pattern actually asked me to get a piece
of elastic that measured 2.5 centimeters
one inch in width cut it to the desired
size of the pattern stitch one
centimeter across the end press open and
then actually attach this elastic to the
top of the waistband so I would have
unrolled this put the elastic on the
inside and overlocked them together so I
would have had to have distributed the
elastic so divided it into at least four
front back and sides and to make sure
that the elastic was evenly distributed
as I was over locking it on then I would
have pressed it down and I would have
stitched close to the bottom edge and
the top edge of the elastic now that is
one option that you can of course
complete however my preference is to
create a channel and in that channel you
can either put the elastic or you can
put some cotton tape or something that
you make as eights high cord talking to
my sister and her scrubs
none of the scrubs she owns have elastic
in them they all have tie cords so that
you can adjust the waist easily so what
I have done instead is I've pressed
under to the wrong side approximately 5
mil or a quarter of an inch and then
I've pressed over approximately three
centimeters one inch and a quarter and
I've done that all the way around the
waistband now if you wanted to introduce
elastic into this waistband you could go
straight to the sewing machine and
you're going to sew along the bottom
edge leaving an opening of approximately
4 inches 10 centimeters to be able to
insert your elastic I'd probably do it
at the back and you can also top stitch
around the top edge I will be stitching
around the top edge on the bottom edge
in a second but I've decided to
introduce some cotton tape therefore I
need to have a means for the cotton tape
to be able to come out of the waistband
to be able to pull and adjust the
trousers so what
I'm going to do is I'm going to actually
create a buttonhole and the buttonhole
is going to be sitting on the front here
and this is where the cotton tapes going
to come out of you could also put
buttonholes on the very top edge of the
waistband if you wanted to that is
actually where the buttonholes are my
sister's scrubs trousers are because
they're reversible or if you didn't want
to do a buttonhole you could put an
eyelet or something
you just need a means to be able to pull
the tie cord out of the waistband once
you've pressed your waistband you're
going to need to draw on your buttonhole
and I worked out that I wanted my
buttonholes to starts to point five
centimeters from my center line you
could probably do it a little bit more
than this if you wanted to this was
simply based on a pajama pattern that I
used to teach so two point five
centimeters either side of that central
seam and I would draw the vertical lines
for my buttonholes now these cotton tape
that I've got here is two centimetres
wide three quarters of an inch so you
could make a buttonhole the same size
for this to fit through you want it to
have a snug fit therefore I'm going to
measure 5 mil from the top edge of the
waistband and 5 mil from the bottom edge
because my current waistband is 3
centimeters in inches this is 3/4 of an
inch so you'll be making a hole that's
three quarters of an inch wide you can
of course get slightly wider tape
perhaps two point five centimeters one
inch would also work now you're going to
need to before you go and sew your
button holes you're only sewing them
through one layer so you're gonna be
opening this out like this
and you're going to need to apply some
interfacing onto the back you don't want
this interfacing to be visible so just a
neat little rectangle that goes directly
behind the buttonholes to stabilize them
so the buttonholes following the method
that works for you
I'm not going to go into detail about
sewing buttonholes here simply because I
have a whole series on sewing them and
it depends on the machine that you're
working for the same applies for marking
them and cutting them out I'll pop a
link to the playlist here
once the buttonholes are sewn and cut
you can then sew your waistband channel
I recommend sewing the bottom of the
waistband first I'm using the edge
stitching foot to do that
stitching 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch away
about two millimeters if you decide that
you wish to include elastic in the
waistband then I recommend leaving a gap
at either the side or the back of
approximately 4 inches 10 centimeters
you will sew this up at the very end
once you've inserted your elastic if
you're attaching cotton ties then you
don't need to do that
because we're going to insert them into
e buttonholes at the front once you've
sewn around the bottom of the waistband
channel you can if you want to complete
the same stitch around the top of the
waistband channel if you're introducing
elastic you can sew all the way around
at the top of the waistband channel you
just need to leave a gap at the bottom
to insert the elastic so now the
waistband channel has been sewn you can
take the cord that you want you can use
cotton tape or you can use something
that you've made to go through here it's
totally up to you and with a safety pin
you are going to feed this through the
opening try not to twist it as you go
all the way around the trousers if
you're working with elastic this same
principle would apply I said leave an
opening on the side or the back use a
safety pin to take it all the way around
making sure that you do not lose the
other end so I've brought the tie all
the way around and out of the other
buttonhole making sure that it wasn't
twisted if you had a piece of elastic
that you were using in the waistband I
would recommend that you overlap it flat
like so and personally I tend to sew a
little box with sort of an X in the
center of the box just to really secure
it once you've done that with your
elastic you would be able to sew up the
gap along the bottom edge of your
waistband channel you would obviously
have to pull the elastic to stretch it
whilst you do that the other little tip
I have with elastic if you've chosen to
use elastic in the waistband channel is
to once you've sewn the ways
channel backup if the waistband to pull
like this a make sure the elastic is
evenly distributed around the waistband
then I would recommend stitching through
at the center back and you can also do
it at the side seams through this
restriction the ditch of the seam
allowance through the elastic what this
does is it helps to prevent the elastic
from twisting so I tend to do that if I
were applied elastic into my waistband
final thing for this is to finish the
ends of your tie whatever you've used
for this I'm simply going to trim them
fold it once quarter of an inch five mil
fold it again
quarter of an inch five mil and then I'm
going to run that through the sewing
machine sewing close to the inside
folded edge so over the end of the ties
using your preferred method you may
struggle if the ties are quite thick in
which case I recommend that you start in
the middle so out to one side start in
the middle and so out to the other side
and there you have your finished scrub
pants or trousers moving on to your top
the first thing you're going to want to
do is to attach the pockets in the
position of your choosing or whatever
pattern you're following you may have
them at the waist or you may have them
at the breast area complete the pockets
in the same way that you completed the
patch pockets for the trousers or pants
if your back pattern pieces weren't cut
on the fold you can sew them together
and you can either press them open /
lock or surge them or press them to one
side now we're going to look at sewing
the neckline of the pattern I'm going to
be sharing with you how to do two
different necklines the first method
this is my favorite method and this
looks similar to the neckline that my
sister has on her scrubs I will show you
how to draft a pattern you can use and
how to sew this neckline then for the
second method I will show you how to sew
a standard v-neck I also have a very
detailed tutorial that I will link to
here if you want more information about
sewing a v-neck and this is the neckline
that the pattern I'm using comes with
working with your front
you want to firstly mark the stitching
line on that pattern so I've been
measuring in from my v-neck edge 1
centimeter or 3/8 because that's the
seam allowance with it the problem that
I'm working with if you are working with
a pattern that doesn't have a v-neck
you're obviously going to need to draw
that v-neck shape first now I'm laying
on a piece of patterned paper and I'm
going to draw along one side it doesn't
matter which of the v-neck drawing along
the stitching line you might find that
the v-neck is a straight line you might
find that it has a slight curve in which
case you need to use a French curve you
will want to work with a nice sharp
pencil I'm using a sharpie so that it's
easy and clear for you to see you're
also going to want to continue that
straight line up the other side for
about 5 centimeters to inches and you
want to record the shoulder stitching
line as well so far you've drawn the
stitching line for the shoulder one side
of the v-neck and the other side of the
v-neck by about 5 centimeters to inches
the next step is to decide on the width
of this placket that we want to attach
to the neck so I'm going to be working
with three centimeters which is an inch
and a quarter but about 2.5 centimeters
one inch you could probably do a little
bit more as well if you wanted to and
I'm going to now measure from this
stitching line three centimeters or an
inch and a quarter and I'm going to draw
that on just like so and you can see
that we wanted the other side of the
v-neck to connect to this new line that
we're drawing so we're obviously drawing
everything here without seam allowances
you're also going to want to extend the
shoulder across here like so think about
the width that you choose to draft your
neck binding in and make sure that you
have enough space to come closer to the
neck along the shoulder line and that
this point isn't going to be too close
to the neck and then we can add some
seam allowances so you're going to want
to add if you've got a one sent to me
two or three eighths seam allowance on
your pattern you want to add the same
amount we need to add that to the
shoulder seam we want to add that to
this edge because this is the edge
that's going to sew to the top and we
also want to add that to this edge on
the other side of the v-neck and then we
can extend these lines to make sure that
everything joins up and this line here
okay now what we're going to do is we've
got everything that we need from the
pattern underneath so we can remove that
pattern out of the way for a second and
now what we want to do is we want to
fold this along this line here so we can
call this the fold line if you like and
we're going to fold the paper along that
line and then we can cut this out you
can use scissors you can use a rotary
cutter whatever works for you and we're
cutting through the two layers of paper
because we want this to be a folded
piece of fabric on the garment remember
when you're cutting lines you're always
cutting away the line because that is
extra after your measurement now you
want to open this back up and we're
going to give it a gray line so we want
this to be cut on the bias grain so the
BIOS grain is going to be that 45 degree
angle which is going to give this a
little bit of stretch now to do a bias
grain you can draw a little square and
then you can hit through the corners
diagonal corners of that square to give
you a bias line the other good thing
about using a ruler like mine is that I
can actually get a bias just by lining
up the diagonal corners of these squares
the centimeters on my ruler so that is
my grain line you may want to write that
this edge is your shoulder edge and the
other edge is your neck line and you are
going to need to cut two of these on the
bias and interface them and we can label
this
your neck placket neck binding but if
you want to call it you can also remove
this extra pointed corner that you've
created by drawing the seam allowances
simply measure your seam allowance one
centimeter or 3/8 from that corner point
draw a line across and cut off the extra
paper
once you've drafted your neck binding
piece for the front you are going to
want to check that's the front neck and
the back neck we'll still sew together
you may need to make some amendments
there
so I recommend folding over your neck
binding and pinning it on to the front
as if it was sewn you're pinning the
stitching lines together it can be a
good idea to draw your stitching line
across the shoulder remember along this
front edge of the binding this is a fold
of your fabric so there is no seam
allowance here you can also draw your
stitching lines onto the back neck and
this will allow you to double check how
much extra if any do you need to add to
your back neckline now if I line these
seam allowances on top of one another I
need to be able to have one seam
allowance to sew around the neck of the
back because this edge of my neck
binding is a folded edge of fabric it
doesn't have a seam allowance so I'm
still going to need to have that one
centimetre or whatever seam allowance
you're working with around the top of
the back neck so you should be able to
line everything up and you want to have
approximately a centimetre 3/8 or
whatever your seam allowance is for the
back neck to sew it and you can see that
I've added that extra piece of paper
here obviously do check with your
pattern that you can actually extend the
shoulder in this area and raise the
neckline slightly make sure you have
enough room to do so finally you would
need to also draft a new back facing
piece that was a copy of your back neck
excluding your seam allowance done
Center back if you have one I've gone
ahead and cut out two fabric pattern
pieces using the pattern piece that we
drafted for the neck binding I have also
cuts out two interfacing pieces
and interfaced or fused each of these
fabric pieces
finally I've press them in half along
the fold line that we drew with the
right side on the outside but the wrong
side of the fabric facing up I recommend
that you iron a small piece of
interfacing this can be a little
rectangle it can be a little circle and
the interfacing needs to be positioned
right to where the bottom of that V is
and this will just support that area
because we're going to be cutting really
close to the V it will help to prolong
the life of the garment as well this is
how we're going to be taking our work to
the sewing machine in a second I've got
the right side of my top facing up here
let me explain what I've done with
attaching these plackets now the first
thing that you might want to do so I've
got left placket right placket garment
facing up and the plackets can go on
either way because they're folded it in
half now the first thing you probably
want to do is to draw on your stitching
line for both your v-neck and the bottom
of your v-neck for the plackets this is
optional but if you are a beginner I
believe that it will just help you
especially when you're sewing your first
one so if my seam allowance is one
centimeter or 3/8 I can just draw that
on using a removable pan or chalk just
like so and you would do the same for
the bottom edge of these plackets here
you can of course draw your stitching
line on all the way along if you wanted
to just like so and you can just about
to see the one I've already drawn on to
the side now we are going to be sewing
this vina calm and we want this right
hand pocket to be on the top so this
one's going to go underneath it's going
to look something like this when it's
sewn and the other thing we want to do
is you want to be catching in this edge
this seam allowance here into that seam
on the left side of the placket so that
it looks really nice and neat we are
going to take pin and put a pin in the
bottom of that of V for the right
placket and now and this is just
something that just helps you understand
I'm hoping how it's going to work take
that pin and put it
in the bottom of the V of your main
fabric and then swivel your plackets
all the way around until you have got
the raw edge of the placket
matching up with the raw edge of the
left side of your neckline and then you
can pin that in place the left plackets
can go down we're matching up the raw
edges of the placket with the raw edge
of the neckline and we would want to
remove this pin and put it through all
three nice so you should have your
v-neck points for the left plackets
the right placket and also your neckline
underneath you may want to draw on your
stitching line at the shoulder of both
the placket and the garments and match
those up but if they don't match
perfectly don't worry the plackets are
cut on at the bias they can stretch ever
so slightly with handling and we want to
make sure that the v-neck is correct
that's the most important thing so I'm
going to pen the rest of my edges all
matching up nicely first step at the
sewing machine we're going to begin at
the shoulder and we're going to stitch
down to the V stopping at the very point
of that V so if I were to draw that on
but the pan is gonna be stopping here
begin at the shoulder with a couple of
stitches forwards and a couple of
stitches backwards and then you can sew
along the edge of the neckline keeping
everything nice and flat following the
seam allowance that you're working with
as you near the point of the v-neck make
sure that all our pieces are sitting
flat as they should be and sew into the
points that you marked backstitch at the
points the next step is to cut into the
main body fabric right into where that
stitching is now you can do this at the
machine I've just pulled it off the
machine to show you the process so I'm
going to cut right into the stitching
not through the plackets and you want to
cut really close to the stitching but
not through it you need to cut really
close to the stitching otherwise if you
look through it from the front side
there would be a pucker then you should
able to match up the right hand sides of
the plackets
with the edge of the neckline and you
should find if you've cut close enough
but you're also including the left side
here as well
so you want to match everything up
really nicely just like you did before
from the wrong wrong side you wanted to
look like this you're going to pick up
this parts and head to the machine to
sew from the dots that should be the
point of your v-neck all the way up
following your seam allowance and you're
going to want to catch the garment when
you sew this from the right side it's
going to look something like this if you
have a pucker here so I recommend pin it
and pin it like I've done where I do
what's called pin basting so I'm pinning
where I'm sewing and then you can look
at it from the right side and you can
say yes that looks right if you have a
pucker at the V points you are going to
need to cut a little bit closer begin by
placing the needle at the dot that you
created for the point of the V lift the
foot up and then you can just double
check underneath that you are catching
the garment fabric you're going to want
to do it again
stitch forwards and backwards to secure
this and then you can sew up following
either the drawn line if you've drawn
one or your seam allowance
once you've finished sewing your second
side you're going to want to give it a
press I recommend pressing it from the
wrong side first and then from the right
side making sure that you do give the
garment a little bit of a tug so that
you don't have any creases or through
pleating where the garment attaches to
be binding next we're going to finish
the inside so if I turn this over it's
going to look like this at the moment
and what I'm going to do is I'm going to
whiz down here and here with the
overlocker or serger to give it a really
nice finish just a little option if you
don't have access to an overlock or
serger I would recommend that you
trim down the seam allowances that are
closer to the garment front and then you
should be able to tuck under this top
seam allowance and press it and in a
second we're actually going to top
stitch this from the right side so you
should be able to catch this in your top
stitching but the easiest way is to
simply run it through the overlock real
serger like I've done here I've whizzed
down both sides using the overlocker and
then I've got a liberal of thread at the
bottom that I need to tidy away so I've
threaded it through a large ithe needle
and we'll just thread that back up on
the underside next we're going to head
back to the sewing machine and we are
going to stitch a nice top stitch around
the neckline
up to you how far away from the seam
that joins the garment to the binding
new stitch I tend to keep all my
stitching consistent on our garment so
I'll probably do the same technique that
I did with my pockets about a three
millimeter distance one-eighth of an
inch working with the edge stitching
foot but you can use any foot that you
have for your machine you're welcome to
move the needle use the edge of the foot
just do something that you can be nice
and consistent with this top stitching
or edge stitching now I'm lining up the
center part of my foot with the seam
that drawing the placket to the garment
and I'm move my needle to the left twice
so that I'm stitching about 1/8 away
from the same and you're just going to
work your way all the way along
when you get to the bottom of the V lift
the foot leave the needle in and turn
your work continue up the other side
backstitch at the start and at the ends
and you should be left with something
like this
give your garment another good press and
then we're going to work to attach the
shoulders and the back facing you want
to place the back garment right side
facing up and position your front
garment right side facing down so the
right sides are together matching up the
shoulders now you should find that you
have extra of your back neckline here
and you need that because the back
neckline has one centimetre and this
edge is on the fold so you want to start
matching up from the end of your
shoulder seam you do not need to have
overlocked the shoulders yet I went
ahead and overlooked my front shoulders
but you don't need to because we'll
overlock them all together in a second
you're also going to want to take your
back facing this should have been
interfaced and should match your back
neckline I have gone ahead and over
locked or searched the bottom curved
edge of this and I would recommend doing
that at this stage if you don't have
access to an overlocker or serger you
can simply press under five mil a
quarter of an inch and make sure that
when you pin this to match the shoulders
that you're keeping it pressed under
along this edge so you need to match
everything up all of the wrong edges
along the shoulders on both sides and
also the back neck if your neck bindings
extend past the edge of the front
shoulder you can trim them off so they
are in line next head to the sewing
machine we're going to be sewing across
shoulders from the very edge where the
sleeves are going to be inserted across
and then around the neck and then across
the other shoulder one thing you may
want to mark is this little point here
depending on how accurate your sewing is
having a little mark can be useful
because you want to make sure that you
don't catch the neck binding when you
turn the corner this is a simple scene
to sew just continue using your seam
allowance
make sure if you haven't overlapped the
edge you're facing that you when you
stitch over it it has been turned under
so long following your seam allowance
follow the marking that you have placed
or just make sure you're accurate with
your seam allowances needle goes in
foots raised and turn the corner you
don't want to catch the neck band in the
corner so that you have a nice finish
when it's turned around exactly the same
on the other side trying to keep them
both symmetrical so this is what the
stitching should have looked like now
before you get to trimming overlocking
your surging I recommend that you just
pull this through and check that the
join between the back and your neck
binding is nice and neat you don't want
to have loads of back neck sticking out
here and you also don't want to have
caught in your neck binding this comes
back to making sure that the back
pattern piece fits the front and that
you're accurate with your sewing here
with your one centimeter seam allowance
or whatever the seam allowance is that
you're working with next you can chop
off this corner nice and close to the
stitching to remove any box and you're
also going to want to cut into the
neckline so that the curve sits nice and
flat when we turn this around I've gone
ahead and over locked or surged all the
seam allowances together and I will do
that on both shoulders which is why you
didn't need to over lock or search them
up to this point I've also gone ahead
and trimmed away any extra bulk from the
back seam allowances there I've just cut
them nice and close to three millimeters
away from the stitching line okay next
step is to turn this through and you've
got a couple of options here you can
either edge stitch or top stitch along
the shoulder around the neck and along
the other shoulder or you can top stitch
just the shoulders and we can understand
the neckline instead I think I'm going
to use that method so I'll join me at
the sewing machine and I'm going to be
showing you how to understand
the back neckline and then we'll do the
two top stitching portions under
stitching is when you're going to be
stitching on the facing so that the
stitching isn't visible from the right
side of the garment but you're going to
be catching your seam allowances so the
seam allowances need to be pushed
towards the facing I'm using my edge
stitching foot and I've moved the needle
two steps to the right so that I can run
the previous seam right into the middle
of my edge stitching foot however you're
welcome to use any foot that you have
the edge of the foot is often a good
method of lining things up and you can
move your needle you're going to begin
as close as you can to where the
shoulder and the neck join and this can
be a little bit tricky to get it all in
place but once you're there you can
start stitch forwards and backwards to
begin and then we're just going to
stitch across the back neckline
constantly checking that those seam
allowances are going towards the facing
and I'm just going to sew as far as I
can so again when you get to this corner
of the neckline it becomes a little bit
tricky so just so as far as you can and
try and be consistent where you start
and stop on both sides if you would
rather do the edge stitching or top
stitching method you're welcome to do
that instead back stitch at the end and
that's your under stitch seam there give
everything a nice press before
continuing you want to press your facing
from the wrong side making sure that you
can see its hiney amount of the right
side from the wrong side you also want
to press your shoulders making sure that
the seam allowances are going towards
the back and that you don't have any
pleating where you're facing joins the
shoulder all from the shoulder front so
you may need to give your fabric a bit
of a pull here then we're going to edge
Stitch the shoulders just for a little
bit of detail and to hold everything
back I'm using my edge stitching foot
again and I've moved my needle so that
I'm stitching in eighths of an inch two
or three millimeters away from the
shoulder seam you can sew using your
desired distance you'll do this on both
sides and you're just going to sew the
width of the shoulder however if you
didn't understand shore back neck you
could now continue around
back neck and across the other shoulder
and here is the finished neckline so the
back neck I understood and then I edged
it your top stitched the shoulders as I
said you're welcome to instead of under
stitching take that all the way around
the back net and across the other
shoulder final option is that you could
go and stitch around the bottom edge of
your back facing here again you could
use that edge stitching foot's and
Stitch fun is to be close to the edge
sort of two to three millimeters and
eighths of an inch unless you've been
stitching further away in all of the
other places I recommend being
consistent next I'm going to be showing
you how to do a standard v-neck option
which is easier than this method if you
prefer that option then continue
watching otherwise if you've done this
and you're ready to move on please skip
forward to the sleeve insertion all of
the details in terms of timings for this
tutorial are in the description box
below it's a complete a standard v-neck
neckline with a facing you're going to
need to firstly sew your garment
together at the shoulders and I
recommend that you over lock or surge
them either prior to doing this or
afterwards pressing the seam allowances
open
I've done the same for my center back
seam but obviously if you've cut your
Center back on the fold that's
absolutely fine as well another little
detail is whenever you're doing a v-neck
it can be useful to iron a little piece
of interfacing onto the wrong side of
your front exactly where the point of
that v-neck is going to sit this is
because we're going to be cutting really
close into the V now you should have a
front v-neck facing and a back of your
neck facing these need to be interfaced
and they need to have the shoulders sewn
I've also overlooked the shoulders
pressing the seam allowances towards the
back and I have overlooked all the way
around the outside edge of my facing
completes all of the process to this
part and then we can attach the facing
onto our garments position the garment
with the right side facing up take your
facing and position that with the right
side facing down so that the right sides
are together starts by match
chewing up all of the edges match up the
v-neck shape match up the shoulder seams
making saw that sure that the seams are
sitting exactly on top of one another
and pin everything in place you will
probably find it useful to draw on your
stitching on at the very bottom of the V
if you're confident and don't need to do
this do not worry if you are a beginner
I would recommend it so I'm measuring my
one centimeter creates from the edge of
my fabric I'm continuing it on past the
V and we have to continue it so that it
joins up with the other side like so you
only need to do it for an initial two
inch so 2.5 to 5 centimeters either side
of the V shape when we get to the sewing
machine we're going to start sewing one
side of the V about five centimeters to
inches away you're going to stitch down
to the V needle in turn so all the rest
of the way around the neckline back to
the V needle in turn and five
centimeters up to the other side
bypassing this area it means that we're
really securing the V and just gives a
little bit of extra leg over t2a
garments trim away any excess seam
allowance at four Center back and from
the shoulders just so that when you sew
across these you're not adding extra
bolt into the seam start approximately
five centimeters to inches away from the
V and you can use the drill on lines to
help you if you want to sew to the V
points put the needle in exactly on the
points lift the foot up and turn your
work foot down and continue to sew
following your seam allowance
around the rest of your face saying make
sure that the edges of the facing and
the garments are lined up at all times
when you get to the shoulders make sure
that the seam allowances are going in
the right direction open for the
garments and towards the back for the
face thing and try and hold them in
position so that they stay matched when
you get back to the starts you're going
to sew over yourself kneel in at the
bottom of the V foot up turn stitch
directly over the same stitching for
approximately five centimeters to inches
the other side of the V back stitch and
pull out your work taking a pair of
scissors cut right into the center of
the V as close to the stitching as
possible then press open at the seam
allowances between the facing and the
garment body and you want to press right
up into that V complete the same all
around the neckline and clip into the
curves if required once the seam
allowances have been pressed open all
the way around the neck you're going to
push the facing to the inside and I
recommend working from the inside of the
garment working your way around ironing
the edge of the facing you want to see a
very small amount of the right side of
the garment coming through about 1/16 to
1/8 of an inch for the bottom of the V
you're going to need to give a small tug
and you can work your way around
pressing everything in position if you
find that the point of your V is still
puckering then you probably haven't cut
close enough now usually when I'm sewing
a v-neck I would go ahead and under
stitch the neckline this means that I
would push the seam allowances towards
the neckline and I would stitch close to
the stitching line I actually do that
prior to pressing and I find that I get
really good results doing that if you're
interested in copying that technique I
have a tutorial that shows
how to do this I'll pop a link to it
here however the majority or should I
say all of the scrubs that have looks at
haven't actually had on the under
stitching taking place probably because
it's a little bit time-consuming and
scrubs are something that generally
sewed up quite quickly instead they're
just stitched around the outside edge of
the face thing to hold everything in
place and this stitching is visible on
the right side of the garment to check
that you're happy with your v-neck from
the right side before you go ahead and
do this and then you may wish to pop
some pins in to hold the face saying in
position and we're going to be literally
following the edge of the face saying
all the way around you can of course so
closer if you want to this is really up
to you but generally speaking most the
scrubs that I've looked at as sewn right
around the edge of the face saying and
you're welcome to curve this bottom edge
also it's in the angles that it
currently is in for this example I'm
using my edge stitching first and I've
moved my needle over so that I'm just
catching the edge of my facing for ease
of this tutorial I'm just going to be
sewing the exact copy of my facing onto
the right side of the garment at those
corners needle in lift the press effects
and work your way around complete the
same process around the back facing and
there you go that is your final v-neck
and I think this is a really easy way to
get a nice technique and is less
complicated than the first method that I
shared with you if you have done this
v-neck you would then continue and
follow the rest of the instructions
putting in the sleeves and sewing these
side seams now your garment may not have
sleeves that you need to attach simply
because the sleeves may be drafted in
the pattern of the bodice in which case
skip forward to the side seam section
we're going to position these sleeves in
using the flat method which means that
we're going to be positioning the sleeve
into the armhole before so in the side
seam the first thing you're going to
want to do is to find the right sleeve
for the right armhole so you should have
notches on your sleeve I have one notch
here which means the front
of the armhole two notches if you have
them would mean the back of the armhole
and one notch means this Center which
needs us to match with the shoulder seam
so this is the correct sleeve because by
one notch here matches to my friend
armhole now I can start paying the
sleeve to the bodice I've got my garment
here with the right side facing up this
is the correct sleeve to fit into the
armhole so I'm going to turn it over
with the right side of my sleeve facing
the right side of my garment and I'm
going to match the top notch with the
shoulder seam here taking my pins I'm
going to pin this once you've pinned the
top shoulder notch you can then work
your way down and you can pin the side
seam to the underarm seam of the garment
when I'm pinning I'm thinking about how
I'm going to feed my fabrics through the
machine so the fabric is going to be on
my left as I'm sewing and then I'm going
to do another pin with the front side
seam and underarm seam then you can
match any other notches so if you've got
a single notch for your fronts on the
sleeve that matches the garment armhole
you can match those together and the
same for the back generally speaking if
you have any ease in your sleeve which
means that the sleeve is larger than
your garment armhole that is going to
happen after the notches that are
present on the sleeve and the armhole
approximately three inches seven point
five centimeters up from your side seam
so this first part can be matched like
for like and then if you have any ease
it needs to happen between the notch or
three inches 7.5 centimeters up from the
armhole and the notch at the top of your
sleeve that matches your shoulder seam
and here you can just pick middle to
middle and middle to middle to
distribute the ease when I say middle to
middle I mean I sort of eyeball the
middle of the sleeve and the middle of
the armhole and I put those together and
then work in between those areas put in
as many pins as you feel you need
but again you don't have to pin here you
can simply go to the Machine and make
sure that you match everything up sewing
along if you are a beginner I would
recommend that you pin same for the back
hopefully you can see the sleeve is now
attached into the armhole and we're
going to sew from one side seam all the
way up and over the sleeve cap down to
the other side seam following the seam
allowance in your individual pattern in
my case that's three eighths one
centimeter work your way around the
sphere with a backstitch at the start
and at the end try and match up both of
the edges all the way along and there
may be times where you need to give the
armhole a little bit of a pull so that
it lines up with the sleeve constantly
check underneath that you're not
accidentally catching anything you want
both layers to be nice and flat and
concentrate on one area at a time don't
think you're going to be able to move
all the way around the sleeve in one
smooth motion you're going to need to
prepare an area so an area prepare an
area so an area the sleeves have both
been inserted and once they were sewn I
overlocked them or surge them just like
so using the same technique that I
showed previously with the trousers
surging relatively close to the original
stitching line I then press them and
we're ready to move on to the side seams
now if you don't have access to an
overlocker or serger and you want to add
Sleeps your garment you can use a flat
felled or French seam to soak those in
feel free to add top stitching or edge
stitching to any of the seams but you so
it's totally up to you the next step to
finishing our garment is to sew the side
seams which is also going to incorporate
the underarm seam of the sleeve and the
vents on the side once sewn you're going
to end up with a side seam and underarm
seam that looks like this with
Prust vent or slit ready to stitch at
the end the final finish here would be
the hem of the sleeve and the hem of the
garment the first thing I'd like you to
do is if you want to over lock or search
your hems you can complete the front the
back and the sleeve hem cutting nothing
away just finishing the edges however
you have the option to press these under
so if you don't have access to an
overlocker or serger or you don't want
to do this part please feel free to skip
it next if you are using an overlocker
or serger you are going to run down side
seam so we'll begin on the underarm of
the sleeve so over the join between the
sleeve and the body and sew around the
curve in one process then the edge of
the vent can be completed in a separate
process I would recommend that you send
the seam allowances between the sleeve
and the garment in opposite directions
so this one has gone towards the body
the other one will go towards the sleeve
this means when we sew them together
there is less bulk in that area let me
give you some tips for over locking
around curves my main piece of advice
when you're sewing around a curve on the
overlocker or serger is to try and feed
the fabric in as if it's straight so if
you're sewing a concave curve you're
going to be pulling more of the fabric
round and it might be buckling up on
this side but whatever you're feeding in
is straight the stitching ends up
straight on the edge the opposite way if
you're sewing a convex curve you're
going to be feeding and pulling the
fabric around so that you're feeding it
into the machine once you've over locked
or finished the edges match up the
underarm seam with the seam allowances
going in opposite directions pin the
rest of the seam together starting from
the sleeve hem and working all the way
down the side seam of the body if you
don't have access to an overlocker or
serger you can complete a French seam
with a vent
or slit at the bottom of it it's a
little bit trickier the other option is
that you simply sew your seam allowances
like we're doing here and then press
them open tuck the edges of the seam
allowances on
and edge stitch close to that so that
you have a little feature on the right
side of your garment the vents or slits
on your pattern at the sides might be
slightly different to mine you just need
to work out where the pattern requires
you to stop sewing the side seam in my
pattern it is in line with the end of
this curve here so approximately about
here I know because I have a little
notch on my hem that I am going to be
folding back all of this section like so
therefore I'm actually going to need to
come away from my one centimeter I'm not
following this curve around I have one
centimeter seam allowance or 3/8 up here
and I'm gonna be sewing straight down to
this point where I will be stop sewing
do check your individual pattern my
pattern might be more shapely at the
side seams because it is a female
designed scrub top just make sure that
both sides are symmetrical so on the
sewing machine following your seam
allowance stop sewing where the slit
will begin making sure that you back
stitch to secure this area use a seam
roll to successfully press open at the
seam allowances you'll just pop that
inside all the way along pressing the
seam allowances open
for the slit at the bottom I have a
notch along the bottom edge that shows
me where I need to depress this back and
I stopped sewing in the right place so I
was able to give this a nice press in
position now we have the final things to
do hem the sleeves and hem at the hem of
the top sewing around the slit openings
as well the hem on the garment that I'm
working with asks you to fold one
centimetre or three-eighths press it and
then two centimetres or three quarters
of an inch and press it and you will
need to do that for the front and the
back of the garment this is why you
don't necessarily need to over lock or
Serge the edge here
however if you have overlooked or surged
you could simply press it up by the
total amount three centimeters and
and 1/4 so that you don't have the added
bulk of folding it over the sleeves on
my garment are a fold of two centimeters
3/4 of an inch
and I've pressed it and then again of
two centimeters 3/4 of an inch and I
just use my little sleeve role or seam
roll to work my way around that sleeve
opening again you do not need to have
over locked or surged the seam allowance
here let's look at how we can finish the
corner between the hem and the slip
neatly I'm going to share with you a
couple of different options for mitering
this corner this is my preferred method
and the first method that I'm going to
share with you to begin you're going to
need to press the hem up by the amount
that your patent requires and press the
facing for the slit in you could press
the hem up with the double fold or you
could press it up with a single fold it
doesn't matter whichever works best for
you using a pair of scissors you're
going to once it cuts right into the
corner of wire at the hem and the slit
meet you want to cut through all of the
layers of fabric except for the front
layer so you're cutting through the hem
and the slit then you can open up the
layers and you should find that there is
a clip on the hem edge and also on the
edge of the slit fold the fabric so that
it's right sides together matching the
two clips together so the clip on the
hem with the clip on the edge of the
slit facing position in a pen now you
are going to sew from where the two
clips are to the corner that you should
be able to see here between the two
creases the crease of the hem being
pressed up and of the facing for the
slit you're welcome to draw this on with
chalk if you prefer so that you have a
line to follow at the sewing machine at
the sewing machine you want to sew all
the way across this drawn line from the
very corner and the folded edge of the
fabric you want to sew on and off this
edge all the way across to the clip
points hopefully you can see that I've
been to the sewing machine and sewed
this the next step is that we want to
cut away some of this extra fabric to
remove the bulk however I recommend that
you turn it around to the right side
first just to check that you're happy
with the finished results take a pair of
scissors and cut away the bulk you want
to cut very close to the corner edge or
the folded edge of the fabric press open
the seam allowances you can use a point
press if you like to help you and use a
point turner to turn it around to the
right side and poke at the corner now
this is my preferred method of a mitered
corner it looks really neat and it
removes all of the bulk give it a final
press in position another option is to
of course simply press up the hem and
then press over the facing for the slit
and you can use that as a quick
alternative finally you can use the same
method that we use for my tween the
corners of the pocket again you're going
to need to press up the hem and the
facing for the slit as you desire unfold
the hem in the facing then fold the work
back in on an angle you're folding
almost a triangle shape here so that you
can match up the creases for the ham and
the creases for the slit on top of one
another then you would proceed to fold
up the hem and the facing just like so
the same technique we used for the
pockets and you can complete this with a
double fold to the hem as well if you
prefer personally I didn't like this
method as much on the pattern that I'm
working with simply because the facing
for the slit is quite large so it
doesn't match up with the seam allowance
for the hem might at the corners as you
desire and then we can head to the
sewing machine to sew the hem I'm going
to be sewing posts for the top inside
edge approximately an eighth of an inch
away two to three millimeters for the
ham of the sleeves you can go all the
way around and I'd recommend using the
edge stitching foot which looks like
this and that's what I used on the
trousers for the garment you can either
use the edge stitching foot or you can
use the standard foot and move the
needle and use some of the edges the
inside or outside edges of your standard
foot for the sleeves it's easy you're
just going to go all the way around for
the hem you're going to need to start at
the edge so going across the edge of the
slit so you need to work out where
you're going to put your foot down and
move your needle to
for the bit that you fold it up and
where that's positioned on the metal
plate so that you can start at the very
edge and continue across feel free to
increase the stitch length when you're
doing your hemming if you would like
complete the same technique for the
front and the back of the garment and
once you have sewn all the way across
the hem the final thing you need to do
is to sew your slit and a little bit of
reinforcement now you're going to want
to sew across where the opening is here
you can obviously eyeball this and just
do it on the machine or you're a little
bit of extra guidance you could draw
this on with chalk or a removable pen I
simply took a right angle from the seam
allowance and drew a line across at the
opening to my slit in terms of the lines
down the side you're going to be sewing
from hem up across and down the other
side so you could either use the edge of
the slit here and so perhaps a
centimeter 3/8 away or I prefer to keep
my stitching line parallel to my side
seam so I actually measured 3
centimeters from my side seam and drew a
line that's an inch and a quarter really
it's up to you and the pattern that
you're working with what you choose to
stitch here so from the bottom of the
hem and back stitch again you're welcome
to increase your stitch length if you
desire so up in line with the opening
finish with the needle in lift the
presser foot in line with the opening
presser foot down and sew across the
opening to secure this area and sew all
the way down
to the hem sewing off and back stitching
when it's finished it's going to look
something like this
you can of course also at a bar tack
across this opening just to reinforce
that area and help to prevent the side
seams from breaking and there you have
it your finished
scrub top give your garment a final
press and it's good to go to new home
thank you so much for watching I really
hope that you enjoyed the video and that
you feel more confident with sewing the
aspects of the scrubs pattern that
perhaps she was struggling with to start
with I wish you all the best with your
sewing and thank you for everything that
you're doing
