Hi everyone it's April with Hair 101.  I'm going to show you how to do a long haired men's haircut
well it's going to be short hair still.
but for a guys haircut it's going to be long.
im not going to use the
clippers. it's just going to be done with shears and thinning shears.
so the first step is to get the hair shampooed.
and it'll be wet still. and then we're going to go around the perimeter.
if you're not sure where the perimeter is.
it's anything on the edge of the hairline
so we're going to go around and do that first.
so we're going to go ahead and start
on the right side on the ear.
and i'm just going to comb the hair towards
the ear here.
you can kinda see where the hair gets a little bit
thinner and changes pattern.  that's the line
you're going to cut along
and that's a natural hairline
you don't want to cut into the hairline. 
Because then you'll have a little bald spot
so make sure you
stay right on that parameter
and then comb it
down.  careful not to cut the ear right there. just pull the ear
i put my finger on the ear and pull it down a little bit to tighten the skin
alright. and once you get right there to where the ear pokes up you can fold the ear back
 
this way. then you go in and
kinda cut.  then we're left with this little piece here so you can comb it
forward and then backwards
until you've gotten all those little hairs
so it's just a matter of
combing the hair back and forth a few times to make sure you get everything
and just check it.
and then we'll go through and
comb all the hair this way towards the hairline
make sure it's nice and smooth combed over
cut along the hairline
and then just follow the line down right here.
check it. there's another long one.
alright.
and then we'll got to the back.
We cut a straight line in the back.
and this little tip here...
you wanna start where the hairline
where the natural hair goes.
so that's how short we're
going to cut it.  the hairline goes up a little bit over here.
for his hair. but we'll keep it straight.
cut right along that line
that you saw.....
and we can take
the little T-edgers later on and get the little neck hairs
if there are any
for now we'll just worry about the perimeter.
then come down on the neck like that
you can just leave it there until we come clean it up at the end. and then we'll go
and do the same thing on this side.
so you comb the sideburn and the hair
back starting up at the top
and go down
then fold the ear back. just follow it around.
and then
comb the hair
sideways like that.  this is the part you're going to flip your wrist up like this and
cut down.  it's a little bit easier to cut a straight line.
if you tried to do it like this then your hand
would be in the way of their shoulder so you just need to
do that little flip upside down and then use your thumb
to open and close the shears
until you go all the way down
alright.  so once again these little
things can be cleaned up later.
so just double check that you got all
these long hairs around the ear.
so now i'm going to do around the face
go ahead and comb all the hair forward now
i'm going to go up and follow the shape
again. and then that will give it
this really nice taper back.
and then the bangs we'll leave there.
we'll go on this other side real fast.
make sure you're standing right in front of where you're working. and we're going to do the same thing combing the hair forward
this time then
follow along that little line there.
ok so now we're going to start working on the interior of the
the haircut.  i'm going to start with this front
right side. and i'll pick up a section
about a half inch to an inch big
combings really important on this haircut.
you just want to comb it a few times
and then hold it out with our fingers.
and then there's going to be this little short piece
at the ends
you're going to go ahead and cut the hair
to that length.
and taper it all the way up
so i'm starting. and it's a little bit shorter on the bottom
then i keep that same straight line all the way to the top.
so it's going to give it more length
on the top
and then you just keep following it back
you can see my little guide down here
you can see when pull this hair up from where i cut on the perimeter this hair is shorter
than all this
that's my guide...
there we go.
just following it up. 
so do that all the way along the side
and comb the hair forward sometimes.
just to give it a little check.
and the backwards.  What that does is give you a little bit different angle
to make sure that you're not missing any little long spots
ok so you're going to do that on both sides.
so once you get back here to about the back of the ear
just stop and go to the other side.
so now i'm over here
now i'm going to be standing in front of the person you are cutting now.
cause you want to be working in front of where you stand so you can
start back here. and you'll look for your guide behind the ear
and cut up from that. and work forward
this time.......
alright so both of those sides are done now
now we're going to go into the back.
so I'm gonna do this like this
when you're cutting on the sides you have your hands over the top like this. when you're cutting on the side
i'll take my hand and roll it like this
and push my hand back against the shape of
his neck and this is going to give it a really nice shape
down to taper in
your fingers will just naturally fall that way.
i'm going to go along all the way
along the back here.
just picking up sections
and rolling it across.
and you're able to get
really close to the neck here
just go in
and here you can go back over the top. 
and join it to that
side section that you just did
now you'll connect these two.
eventually
be able to match up and you'll be good.
so now
see how this is the same length throughout there. 
we're going to do the same thing
over here.  we've already gone through like this and cut all this
go ahead and check it all on your way back over
and then
see this is that section it's still really long right here.
we're going to
connect this section and this section together.
so we'll go through here and just cut
so now we have this longer
you should have a little bit of a longer section on the back of the head
 
we're going to go through that.
starting right here at
the back and taper that from what you 
cut down here. this is now your guide
you're going to use that and go all the way up.
keeping it longer on the top
just like you did on the sides here
cross-check it
and also another way to cross-check is you can pull it up like this
and you can see if you have any really long pieces.like it kinda goes
short and then long right there.
it doesn't have to be perfect
the long sections you can cross-check
like that.
alright, so i think we're pretty much blended
all of the sides and around here.
we're going to start on the top now.
alright
and you can see right here there's still a little bit of hair around the perimeter that can hang over there
we'll go in
and fix that in a minute.  don't worry about those little details right now.
we're getting the main shape in right now.
so we're gonna go up and grab the top of the hair
and you're gonna hafta make sure you
don't cut the top too short.
so we'll cut
maybe an inch
off of his hair.  cause i've been cutting an inch of the rest of his hair and i'm doing
a trim. so i know that's about how much i need to take.  if you're starting from scratch
might just
need to guess. leaving it.
if you want
a longer haircut on top.  leaving a few inches
you can always take more off
if you've guessed a little bit too long.
but if you go too terribly short on top then it won't
blend onto the sides. so be careful with that.
a good way to get a good guide
would be to come over here on the front and you can see how short it is.
just point cut and blend those two together
from the top to the bottom and that tells
you how long
the rest of it should be
same thing on the side
blend those pieces together
so now we have the front that blends in.
ok so the top we're going to take this
because we have the guide here
when you take all this hair and pull it up
the pieces you just cut will be shorter
that's where you're going to cut everything else to.  
and i just like to point cut
the top it just gives it a
cool texture. It's for boys. it's not cute
IT'S COOL!
So it gives it a cool texture if you point cut
and now i'm here on the back
i'm going to move around to the back
to do this back section.
so you'll see when you pull this back up, you'll have
your guide there and your guide there.
so you'll be point cutting off that
tall piece between the two.
so once you have the mohawk trimmed
you're going to go back in and you'll blend
from the section of your mohawk that you trimmed
to the side.
Then pull that hair up
and cut that tip off.
and you'll just do that all the way back
on this section.....
alright and then of course when we do this other section over here
we need to switch sides
always standing in front of what you're working on.
and we're going to start in the back
so we're going to pull that up.
and you're going to find your guide here and
your guide there and point cut to blend those two pieces together
pretty simple
there we go
alright i'm just going to go
back through and cross check there
and get a little bit more texture into the top
and a good way to check this would also
be you can just comb it up all crazy and make sure
you don't have any really long pieces....
Now that you have the main
shape of the haircut in.
i'm going to go back here.
if it's dried out and comb it back down again
and now i'm going to go through and clean up
the perimeter and the edges
so i'll get my little T-edgers
and i'll go through
and this is where you can decide how much of the
sideburn you want to take off
I think i'll just get it to about there
so i'll just clean it up
and then right here you can take
 the sideburn in the hair  up and blend
a little bit. you can push it forward. 
 so right here we have some long pieces
around the ear
what you do is you
take those up and knock them off with the T-edgers
comb it and hold it.
there we go
and then in the back you'll go through and shape
out a really nice shape here
and these are Oster brand clippers.
the artisan
Osters.  I really like these ones.
cause they can be chordless or you can
use them with a chord if the battery dies
 
And then we'll go back up the side of the head
do the same thing over here.
check the sideburns and make sure they're even
right here you can take your comb underneath
and pop it up. and clean up that little
you are just tapering it in a little bit tighter around the ear
it will make the haircut last a little bit longer
and it looks better cause it doesn't hang over their ear. It's a good little trick to learn
that is pretty much it
you can go through now. 
and this is what I always do.
this helps it to blend really good too
you can see right here
it gets a little bit heavy around in here
so I always take my thinning shears especially
with how thick his hair is
and I knock out a little bit of the ends
just to blend them in.
and you'll see that they
fall really nice after you do that.
and these
I think I got these at Sally's when i was in beauty school like 10 years ago
they still work but they still work awesome.
these have been great for me
they're the 44/30 taper fine
I think they still carry them.
cause they are awesome.
You go through
Great for beginners.  anything that's
not really blending well you can take in
and make it look like a super professional haircut
this is really good for cowlicks to.  Because if you have a cowlick
that's poking up.  if you take it and texturize it
a little bit.  it makes it lay down again
make sure you stay on the ends though
you don't want to go too deep into the roots.
so this is mostly end work it's not going to make the hair look
too thin.
cause you're mostly cutting
the very very tips of it.
let's do a little bit up top.
Just play and do it wherever you want
this is what makes the biggest difference with
the haircuts looking really good
texturing it and eyeballing it
finding out the spots that look too thick
or lay funny and going in and texturizing it and making it really
shape well.
you can throw some gel in that
or you can even spike this hair.
or whatever you want
style wise.
so it's a longer mens haircu
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