(upbeat music)
- Hi, everyone,
this is Nicky Doll
from RuPaul's Drag
Race season 12.
Today we're gonna be
recreating my cape look.
I'm excited to do it.
Watch me go from this, to this.
I usually use a prosthetic
adhesive to block my brows
because it really
gives me the security
that my brow is gonna
stay covered the whole time.
I like to use my loose powder
with a little bit of tint
because it really
gives an extra color
and helps starting to remove
the actual color of the brow.
Might sounds painful,
but it's actually
very relaxing to do that.
So now that I've done that,
you wanna use your
main foundation.
I like to use a lighter.
Basically you're
gonna reactivate
the hydration that is in there,
to have it a little
bit less dry.
And now this is the time where
you do not look cute anymore
for the rest of the tutorial.
You're welcome.
Because I'm French but I do have
a very strong Spanish heritage,
this can be a big
issue for drag.
So what I do is
that I like to use
a beard blocking that is kinda
like an orange concealer.
Girl, when I started
drag, trust me,
she was not fish.
All right, so now that I,
covered half my face
with the foundation,
I'm gonna start
to slowly blend it
and start to contour
and highlight.
(upbeat music)
So I don't know if you guys
have the same issue as me,
but every time that I
apply my foundation,
my nose start running, and
people have been saying
that I might be
allergic to makeup.
But because that was a truth
that I didn't wanna hear,
I keep going.
Do not forget your ears.
There's nothing worse than
having, like, a red ear
when your foundation is perfect.
I didn't put any on the forehead
because I'm gonna
start to contour.
I'm using a very dark,
warmish chocolate,
and that's gonna
help me to really
reduce the area that I
don't wanna highlight.
Female persons have
smaller foreheads,
smaller nose, slimmer jaw.
And you wanna recreate that.
And you erase the work of God,
just for the night.
Should be looking like that
and leaving kind of
like a croissant.
How cliche.
You just go here.
Know that if you
do a lot of this,
your foundation
will look perfect
from the front, but
once you're gonna
look on the side, all the
tricks will be showing.
So you wanna be mindful also
of the foundation
color that you choose
and your blending skills.
(soft music)
So now I'm using a concealer
that is probably one or
two shade lighter than me.
So you wanna highlight also here
and link those two triangle.
That's gonna make those two area
even more seamless.
You wanna highlight a
little bit on the chin.
And you wanna cut
your cheek contour.
You don't wanna put too much,
otherwise you're gonna
look like a, a swordfish.
You know, no judgment, you can.
It's just not my look for today.
You see like my
chin, all the contour
that I did completely
disappeared.
But if I use my contour sponge
and I just go over it,
it's back.
You see?
I like to use my highlight
sponge on my eyelid.
It's gonna be a nice primer
for my, my eyeshadow.
So now you should be
having, a nice contour.
Some messy hair.
And then a nice highlight area.
I'm gonna use my contour shade
that is a little bit darker than
what I used around my face,
just because you wanna
really snatch that nose.
So I like to use a little
brush that is in that shape.
And I'm basically
gonna link the older
shape of my natural
brow right here,
and then go and snatch, snap up.
And then you wanna also make
the tip of your nose
disappear a little bit.
And then what I like to do is
that I use a brush
with a little bit
of my lighter concealer,
and then I just redefine
the bone of my nose, right here.
And right here.
Blend right there.
I like to add a little
bit more highlight,
just because, you know, you want
the makeup to pop on stage.
So what I do is that
I use straight white,
and I'm just gonna go and dab,
ooh, that's white.
You know, I like to use
different shade of highlight
and different shade
of contour to have
the most like defined result.
You're just gonna go
and tap, tap, tap, tap.
So now that I've done that,
I'm just gonna clean the nose.
You wanna be careful
with this one,
because if you go and
you blend it a little bit
on the side, you're literally
gonna remove all your work.
Just for this line,
you wanna make sure
that it stays where
it was positioned.
And then you're just gonna
go and blend the edges.
So now I'm gonna
use my loose powder,
my sponge, and I'm just
gonna put all the powder
that I can in there and bake.
Again don't forget,
this is a stage makeup.
This is not a regular,
I go to the office
from nine to five makeup.
So obviously you
would look crazy
at 12:00 p.m wearing this.
But at 12:00 a.m
with the right amount
of shots you'll look just fine.
And then am gonna
just use a brush.
And go over very
quickly, the contour.
(upbeat music)
Now let's start to work
on my number one
enemy, the brow.
One is always adopted,
the other is always
very upset or shady.
So for that what I do is
that I use actually
just my regular contour.
And I use a little
brush like this.
And that's gonna help me
to basically frame my face.
So my natural brow was here
and so basically am
gonna start my brow
at the middle of
my natural brow.
And then go on top
of my natural brow,
and do it here.
And then put the tail and
just let the brush guide it.
Whoo she's upset.
For this particular look
am gonna create a small
brow, very small tail.
That's for my cape look.
My main inspiration
one, Joan of Arc.
So as you know guys am French
and I wanted to, pay homage
on each of my look to
every proudful woman.
So when I got the theme,
the first name that
popped in my head was
of course the leader
of the revolution.
And also the brow
look crazy right now
but I will show you
that I don't really care
about the shape until I
keen around the edges.
Now you can see like
this a very tiny tail,
a very big stomach.
It's basically my winter body.
So what you do, don't be scared,
concealer and which is
gonna, clean under it.
Just do a little here.
Sometimes you will
see people online
that will do it in
a matter of seconds
and you will still be
there at 2:00 a.m. trying
to figure out what was wrong.
That's usually me.
So find what works for
you and then go with it.
I like to use my
little highlight
and now you wanna do the
same on the upper lid side,
which we know, is
not gonna happen.
And then once you're right here
I like to create
like a little strokes
just to basically recreate hair.
(upbeat music)
For this look I wanted
to create something
that was kinda like
a reverse smoky.
So we gonna have like a
very highlighted crease
but with a very smoky under eye.
I wanted to give that
power to Joan of Arc's eye
I'm gonna use some of like
those transition colors
in order to create
really a shadow.
That doesn't really
look like make up.
It almost looks like it's
where my brow bone starts.
So you gonna go at
the head of your brow,
very freshly designed brow.
Almost at the very
tip of you contour
and you gonna start
to create the shadow.
You see you start
seeing that shadow.
I took this trick from,
analyzing how Mathew used
to do loopholes phase.
You know like there is
a lot of looks of repo
where he literally looked
like he was in drag
but he had no make up on
because he was so
nude and neutral.
And I was so fascinated
by how, it was possible
to create, the
basically a fake face
with no very impactful colors.
And then you start to link
basically you
create a half moon.
I know I like to do is
that I go at the
outer corner of my eye
and I start to sketch it out.
And that gives you
right that little smoke.
Usually when I wanna
check if the effects work
I do my Melania Trump eye.
You know which is always trying
to figure out where she met you
and she's always like this.
So you do that eye
and you just smoke.
Hmm, did we met
last thanksgiving?
I don't know.
And now what you gonna do is
that you gonna take
a smaller brush
that has a little
more pointy tip.
I always love to use
with my skin tone purple
because it basically
gives like a warm
very flattering
color to contour.
So I use a little
bit of the brown
and a little bit of the purple.
I basically gonna
create like a line.
And it's funny because
when you mix the brown
and the purple you
end up not having
hmm purple color but
more of like a shadow.
And that's really
what I try to do
during this whole
process is to recreate
like human shadows and
not like colors yet.
I'm just using a blending brush
just to merge all
the colors together.
So now am gonna use a
very light concealer
to cut my crease and am
gonna use a very flat brush.
We just did a line right
there that is very dark.
And you wanna recreate a
really sharp line under it.
And that is basically
gonna be on your crease.
Which is probably like
at least an inch higher
than my actual natural crease.
Biological woman have
usually whiter eyes
so that is gonna give you
a more feminine aesthetic.
And now am basically gonna blend
the concealer with
the outer corner.
To not have any harsh line
and kinda have like a
more seamless transition.
So what am gonna do is that
am gonna go back with
my transition colors
that I use to cut my crease.
And am just gonna
go back over it.
So now that I took care of
the upper part of the eye
am gonna start
framing the under eye
because not only I
open my eyes on top
I really open it
also on the bottom.
So am gonna go back
with my transition color
and am gonna start to
recreate a lower lash line.
Then you just go right there,
and you sketch it out.
Now you look like a fool, you
are in the right direction.
Take a little flatter brush
and am gonna use my purple.
And am really just gonna
go over what I just did.
So I usually like to do
my eye liner with a pen
and just because it's faster.
(soft music)
So you gonna start
your frame, right here.
Oh you create a line like that.
And I like to start
with the outer corner
because it's gonna allow me
to control the thickness.
You want to connect that dot
to the center of your eye.
Up, up, and here,
that's my trick.
You have a lot of fold right?
So you don't want to go in there
because it's going to
be a complete mess.
So you want to stop
and then you want
to lift your head and
then go, right there.
You see it looks, it
doesn't look straight here,
but if I open my
eyes, it is straight.
So now you're just
want to feel the liner.
Alright, so now that
I've done the liner
that is very dramatic,
we're going to go
and put a white
eyeliner under it
and that's going to create
some extra sharpness.
I like to use a
liquid white eyeliner.
You just gonna go
and outline, later.
And then before it dries,
you go with an airbrush,
and then you just
blend a little bit
because you don't want to have
too much of a harsh white line.
I also like to do a line
right there under the eye.
I know I look crazy.
I'm just gonna
apply some mascara.
I'm gonna go back
over with my purple
and I'm just gonna
go over there,
and just smoke it out even more.
And now that I defined
that white line,
I am not worried to go
under it right there.
And smoke it all the way
to the nose, you see?
So I get a lot sometimes
that when I'm in
drag people think
that I'm a bitch
or I'm not sweet
or anything like that
and I'm actually a
very sweet person,
I just paint very severely.
So don't be scared.
If I'm at the club,
I promise you,
you can come and talk to me.
You just want to blend the line
to make sure you have
no harsh line at all.
Alright, so now we are going
to apply some black eye
pencil in the waterline
because I don't want to
mess up with my skin.
I you I like to use my sponge
and pull my cheek like this.
Don't be scared
to go all the way
to the root of your lashes.
Otherwise, you're going
to have this weird line
and it's going to go in
between your under eye makeup
and your wider like makeup.
And you want to smoke it out.
I actually like to go
with a very small brush
and use a black eyeshadow
and define a little
bit more with like,
whoo she's smoked out.
Take a little blending
brush, and smoke it out.
And now we're going to
use a white eyeshadow
under our eyebrow.
The highlight and the
contour is really the key
to create a little bit more
contrast in your drag makeup.
Otherwise you're just
going to look flat
and that's not the goal.
You see the
difference right here.
(upbeat music)
I like to use a blush
that is not too pink
and not too orange so
like the perfect foil.
Because with my skin
tone it really helps
to blend the contour
and highlight together.
And I like to put it almost like
where I put my contour
and not too much here
because if you cover your
highlight area with blush,
you're going to remove the space
that you created
with the highlight.
I am obsessed with
highlighting into my eye
and I'm just gonna
go with a brush
that is a pretty flat
top and I go like this.
On your mustache.
Trust me the first
thing to start
sweating on that face
is the mustache area.
Right here and then the contour.
What I do for my eye is
that I usually use some
very light gray contacts
because I feel like light
eyes really gives more space
for the colors to
express itself.
So I'm just gonna go
and apply my contact.
You see the difference here.
You can see the purple no more
you can see the contour more.
That also what makes me
look like a total bitch.
So I do my own lashes.
Basically what I do is
that I double triple
stack lashes together
and then I create spikes
at the common points of it.
You just gonna apply your glue.
And I'm going to put
the lash on the liner
and not follow the
natural lash line.
So now we have so
much lashes on the top
that you want to add a
little bit on the bottom.
I basically cut tiny
spikes like this,
and I add them on
the lower part.
Three spikes of
lashes under your eye.
You want to have the
longest one in the middle,
and then two smaller
one on the outer corner.
Right here, the last one.
You see gives you
more like a doll,
kind of like creepy, eye.
But it gives a little
bit more contrast
and more texture to the eye.
I use three different
shade of highlights
and I build
basically the lighter
and lighter as as I go.
So I started with like
a pretty warm color.
I use a blending brush
and I just go right here
right after the blush
and right before the eye makeup
and I just go boop.
And then as I go
with the leftover
on my brush and start
to blend it out.
And then you also want
to go under the Bravo
and a bit on top of it.
And then I use a very white one,
but I really just
go on the center
because that's way too
light for my skin tone.
So now that I've done this,
I'm gonna actually
accentuate the contour
of my nose and then
start to highlight
the center of my nose.
I use a brown
eyeshadow to create
the contour of my nose.
I use a blending brush, like so.
And then I take a brown
that is not too dark.
And I'm just going to go up
completely erase that area.
You use a blending
brush, you blend it out,
and we're going to
use the contour.
Then I'm just going to go boop.
You basically just
have to do your lips.
I like to use a
coffee type of color
because it really
creates the shadow
and to extend the lip shape.
You're going to use
a blending brush
and just go.
I like to use
different shades of new
to really build up to contour.
So I'm going to start with the
darker one, applied all over.
Now I'm going to use
the middle color.
And now we start
to have an ombre.
And you can always use
your blending brush
and go between the colors.
And now I'm just going
to use a very light color
and just go right here.
(upbeat music)
This is like a very
classic retro 90s runway.
I tried to apply it
to my Joan of Arc.
So I'm gonna go put on my wig,
my accessories, my
outfits and I'll be back.
And voila, this is the makeup
that I did for my cape
look on the runway.
I was paying homage
to Joan of Arc
Divonne Jalista, very
90s Mugler run way.
I hope you guys enjoyed it.
I hope you guys
learn some tricks
or two on how I do my makeup
and I cannot wait to see
you on the road. Bye.
