- So, my driver's license expired
three months ago...
which we discovered at the border...
The plan was for Vjeko to leave on Friday
and for us to drive out of the country
and we can't drive out of the country.
We haven't even entered the country
and we're already screwed. Now what?
- [Vjeko] An international incident.
- [Miha] But now, in theory, 
you have to drive all the way.
- Yeah, I do get that.
Suck my d**k.
That was your plan all along!
(wheezing) I even paid your fine...
- That's why he's here.
- [Vjeko] Incredible.
- I don't believe this... Couldn't check
the driver's licence before a trip...
Genius.
- At least it wasn't your passport.
- [Buljan] You gonna light up now?
- Yeah, I don't care anymore.
- [Buljan] That's it. For the nerves.
- So, we're going to Bosnia.
Jasenovac is first on here,
skipping that...
- [Miha] Yeah, that's Croatia.
- So, Kozara.
- [Miha] Kozara is first.
Erected in 1972...
a complex made up of a memorial wall,
museum and monument.
At thirty-three meters tall...
it represents the magnitude
of freedom and the people of Kozara.
Damn, I didn't know freedom
was 33 m tall.
This is what it looks like.
A monument...
to the battle for liberation.
Kozara is a mountain in northwestern
Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Many wars were fought
in these highlands
and the mountainous terrain
provided shelter for the people.
- We're at Kozara National Park
near Kozarac village.
It's one of many memorials
built during the '60s, '70s 
and '80s in Yugoslavia.
And, as with all others,
the underlying theme is
fallen soldiers of WWII.
Tons of concrete. 
There are 3 main parts:
The monument, memorial center
and some kind of surrounding wall.
I believe they mean these walls.
Around 30 m tall.
- [Miha] 30-ish, huh?
- It's imposing.
- I really like the scenery.
Some ninjas out there...
As creator Dušan Džamonja put it,
the monument is comprised of 20 vertical segments
joining in a cylindrical whole.
It opens into the sky as a symbol 
of the victory over evil.
Each of the segments is characterized
by deep hollows that symbolize death,
along with protrusions 
representing victory and life.
The horizontally laid blocks
positioned around the central monument
symbolize the pressure 
and aggression of the enemy
who uses brute force
in an attempt to mould the people,
but to no avail.
Next to the monument is the memorial wall,
engraved with the names 
of 10,000 fallen soldiers.
The museum at the base of the monument
hosts remnants of German weapons,
helmets, photographs
and various documents from the era.
The museum building itself is circular,
with a hollow center that opens to the sky.
- [Miha] I'm sure glad
our navigator's here.
What matters is he's with us.
The "Safet Hadžić" military quarters, 
popularly known as Jajce Barracks,
is found in the old part of Sarajevo.
The Austro-Hungarian fortress is
one of Sarajevo's iconic landmarks,
attracting curious eyes
with its striking location.
After the facility was taken over 
by the Bosnian Army,
it was exposed to shelling attacks,
where it suffered heavy damage
and has been deteriorating ever since.
All that remains on the inside
are rotten walls, damp,
and the structural remnants
of the caved-in roof.
The biggest danger 
are the hanging beams
looming over visitors.
With half the roof caved in,
decay occurs faster.
The building's future isn't bright 
unless it's restored soon.
In the southwest of Sarajevo
lies one of the most valuable
memorial complexes in Europe,
the Old Jewish Cemetery.
Its year of establishment
is taken to be 1630.
These tombstones are also unique 
for their story-telling inscriptions
about the lives of the deceased.
Some contain details such as 
the profession of the departed,
the nature of their relationships
with family and friends,
even descriptions of how 
the ones they had left behind were feeling.
The Old Jewish cemetery in Sarajevo 
has a beautiful view of the city.
We're here at the memorial
to the victims
of the "Ustasha-fascist slaughter"
as they termed it.
It's a lot to think about once you realize
the cemetery had been mined.
No one could access it 
for a long time.
The very concept of mining a graveyard
requires a very 'particular' state of mind...
Once it was finally demined,
the efforts led to a discovery
of between 70 and 100 mines
and other unexploded devices.
Traces of the war still linger.
Here's a sizable hole.
But all of the tombstones have marks.
It's awful.
But, you know...
I'm not Jewish, but I wouldn't mind
resting here, looking over the city.
- [Miha] Buljan, where are we going?
(inaudible)
- Where?
- [Vjeko] I don't know.
We're here at 
a very unique monument.
It isn't really related to communism,
which tends to be the theme.
Instead, it has to do with 
the Siege of Sarajevo
15-20 years ago.
It's a monument to canned beef,
symbolizing the food rations
that were dropped off
by the international community
to the citizens of Sarajevo.
The operation is notable for being
one of the biggest instances
of humanitarian aid
with regards to delivering food
to a city under siege.
12,000 flights were made
from 1993 to 1996,
dropping around 160,000 tons 
of food over Sarajevo.
An interesting piece
of trivia is that
even the cartel...
felt compassion for
the people of Sarajevo
and basically tried to help.
Allegedly, it was so different
and so much more efficient
than all these cans of food,
which were so old...
Basically, the same cans were used
during the Vietnam war.
The problem wasn't
that the food was bad
but that it was far past
its expiration date.
Allegedly, the citizens wanted to erect
a monument to the cartel, but you know...
A drug cartel isn't the easiest thing 
to erect a monument to.
So instead, they erected this.
As you can see, 
it's been quite neglected.
I don't think anyone 
takes care of it.
- We're at the bobsleigh track 
beside Sarajevo,
constructed in 1984 
for the Sarajevo Winter Olympics.
It was a big attraction
and many people came to see it.
Moreover, it was 
an expensive endeavor.
The crowd was expected to generate
enough revenue
to keep the track open for a while.
Unfortunately...
the war broke out in Yugoslavia.
This area was heavily mined 
and destroyed,
and so the track itself
was damaged,
after which it entered 
a losing race against time.
Near the bobsleigh track sits
the only astronomical observatory
in Bosnia and Herzegovina,
"Čolina kapa" and Bistrik Tower.
- Basically, it's one of the most important
astronomical points in the country.
The first and only observatory.
To this day there are 
citizen-led initiatives
to acquire funding
for its restoration,
so that Bosnia and Herzegovina
could get its observatory back.
Only time will tell.
- We're here in Konjic
looking for this super secret bunker.
I have no idea how we'll find it.
We asked at a travel agency, 
they didn't know how to get there either.
It's super secretive.
The third most expensive thing in Yugoslavia.
- I think it's there somewhere.
- The guy said he completed
his Navigation II course.
He's a pilot, he should know where it is.
- But it's a secret. A secret!
Up ahead we see three villas,
which are essentially 
camouflaged entrances to facility D-0.
The zero means it's ready
24/7, all year round.
The middle facility usually
functions as a service tunnel
which is built first, 
then used to transport materials.
The two side ones, 
popularly known as "the moustache"
are later in full use
and the mid one
just for the equipment.
- It's kind of hard to film this 
because we assume
that the "Igman" arms factory
is somewhere in the canyon.
We don't know the exact location
but it's still running
and it's currently one of the biggest,
most promising companies in Bosnia,
which is a bit ironic.
- We're in Konjic at one of the locations
we've always wanted to visit
but the road never quite took us there.
Now that the road has taken us here
 it's completely covered in snow...
Nonetheless...
Here we have facility D-0,
code name "Istanbul"
It's an underground bunker
which was built for Tito
and state leaders to use
in conditions of perpetual war 
in Yugoslavia.
Construction of the bunker 
took 26 years,
I think it was started around 1953
and it's one of the rare examples of
preserved Yugoslav facilities.
We've personally visited countless locations,
all of which were in terrible condition
and this is just very special.
Tito's toilet paper is literally in there.
So, that's something really unique
and we're all excited to finally go in
and see what it looks like.
- I would personally like to welcome you
on behalf of the Konjic municipality.
I hope your stay is comfortable,
taking photos is allowed.
Please step inside.
- My name is Lejla,
and today I will be taking you on a tour
of one of the most closely guarded secrets
in former Yugoslavia.
Construction of the facility
began in March 1953.
It was completed
in September 1979
and handed over to 
the Yugoslav National Army.
So for a total of 26 years
it had been in the works
as the most closely guarded secret
in former Yugoslavia.
It cost 4.6 billion USD to build,
which was the third largest investment
in former Yugoslavia at the time.
The first was underground Željava Air Base 
at 8 billion,
followed by the Lora naval base
in Split at 5.4 billion
and in 3rd place,
the facility you're currently in.
The facility was meant to accommodate
350 people in the event of a nuclear attack
and cover all their living needs
over a period of 6 months.
This would be Josip Broz Tito
with his innermost circle
of military and government leaders,
and after his death, 
his successors,
the presidents of former Yugoslavia
up until 1992 when the war broke out.
The interior spans over 6,500 m2.
As you can see,
it was built in a horseshoe shape
consisting of twelve
functionally connected blocks.
Building number 3
is the one you used to enter.
Further down,
are two more buildings.
These are so-called
camouflage buildings.
They effectively conceal
what's on the inside.
All three are connected by tunnels
leading to the main entrance.
Block 0 is the decontamination area,
Blocks 1 and 2 are the hospital,
which had its operating room,
sanitary equipment, 
X-ray machines and so on.
It had been equipped with all the 
latest technology at the time.
But, during the Bosnian War 
between 1992 and 1995,
it was emptied out to 
accommodate the Bosnian Army.
Blocks 3 and 4 are
the soldiers' rooms.
There are over 100 in the facility.
Block 5 are two conference rooms,
Block 6 is 
the communications room
Block 7 the kitchen
and dining area.
Block 8 is Tito's block,
the central part,
divided in two separate storeys
 with its own air conditioning unit.
Block 9 is air filtration 
and conditioning,
the "lungs" of the facility.
Block 10 are fuel storage tanks,
Block 11 has a well 
for technical water
and a reservoir for drinking water.
Today, we could say this facility is 
a military art museum
because it hosts
131 installations
of contemporary art.
Individual visits, such as yours,
were not allowed until 2011,
they were forbidden.
The Ministry of Defense only allowed
select diplomatic corps and 
VIP guests visiting Bosnia
to enter the facility.
In 2011
they declared the facility obsolete,
no longer serving its purpose,
and came up with the idea
to include art pieces
and open it 
to the general public.
That same year, it was opened
to the public under the name
"Biennial of Contemporary Art"
and was subsequently declared 
a Cultural Event of Europe
for year 2011,
and in 2014, the country declared it 
a national monument.
- This facility is very interesting
because it's fully preserved.
It's a unique opportunity for us 
who have been exploring for years,
to see what it looked like
the moment the army left.
Nothing's been 
destroyed or looted,
and the AC is always on
so there's no damp.
The walls, the paint...
Everything's in pristine condition.
Moreover, this is a special example
of a repurposed military facility.
There are multiple exhibitions 
within the facility
which results in a unique spin-off,
showing that not everything 
relates back to the Army.
Many of the exhibits are
light-hearted
and somewhat humorous,
making light of the fact that
what used to be 
a super secret facility
is now open to the public.
People can come here,
get a first-hand impression,
even joke about the old system.
