properly sanding the surfaces before
sealer base coat clear coat well it's
pretty important in the outcome of your
paint job in fact it's the foundation to
your paint job
things like using a dual action center
on all the flat surface that can really
level out of panel you can follow that
with sanding blocks and soft Sanders for
the rounded or crown surface is creating
a system where you can work smarter not
harder
and that's exactly what we did with our
zet sled 78 camaro project check it out
now this fender has been prepped and
sanded exactly the same way as the rest
of the parts that you just saw in the
spray booth and I've got it mounted on
my super stand so i can get access to
the back sides of the panels and the
jams
so I don't have any over spray or tape
lines when I assemble this car
now this fender obviously hasn't been
prepped at all it's in eastwood hi build
2k primer surfacer in black and although
it's been bodywork
it's nice and straight it's not prepped
it's not ready for paint so we're going
to show you exactly how we did it
now there's a difference in the strategy
between a solid color and a metallic
color
this obviously is getting a solid color
is getting a black paint job
so solid color you can get by with 400
grit being your last stage of sanding if
you're spraying a metallic you want to
finish off with 600 grid that way
the metallic particles don't end up in
those sand scratches and stand up and
look weird
so we're going to prep for 400 on this
pan
now the goal is to finish off with 400
grit but i'm going to start with 320
now this technique is going to tweak
some of you hardcore restoration guys if
you're watching but i have a collision
repair background so I know how to send
with machines properly and if you don't
abuse a dual action center
it can really help you out this is flat
this is not this is flat
this is flat it's a mating surface i'm
going to show you how to use a DA sander
where you don't carve up your panel or
round off any corners start off with the
relatively low speed on your sander and
just sand the flat parts
this technique is about saving time and
creating a very flat surface for your
paid to sit on you notice I'm using a
light touch and only sanding the flat
surfaces
the DA sander will damage the peak the
edges and create Distortion on curve
services so you've got to stop with your
flats are sanded now this is the same
grade 3 20 on a soft Center you can see
what i did but more importantly you can
see what I didn't do I didn't ride my
style lines I didn't ride my convex and
complex shapes
that's four hand sanding but we just
bought ourselves a bunch of time and
save yourself a bunch of rub it
so now i can use blocking techniques
one of the things I really like about
the east with black toque a primer is
that it acts as it's on guide going you
can tell you send it through you can
tell when you're done with this step
and watch my technique the block face is
rounded slightly and I'm rolling with
this curve like I said we've done our
body work panel shaped like we wanted
and it's nice and straight where it
needs to be nicely straight so I don't
want to change that by sanding and a lot
of time priming and blocking and we
don't want to go backwards we don't want
to rob ourselves of having done all of
that hard work on these Peaks style
lines i found that if they're too crisp
sometimes they look a little weird so
when i'm done blocking I skate over them
just a little bit just a mute that peak
edge and it's still nice and straight
but it looks just real clean and real
crisp and just one step above factory
your tendency is going to be to grab the
air hose and blow the dust off and see
if you still got some stuff to sand
I want to change your mind on this
yeah
yeah
the most obvious benefit is that we are
not surrounded by a cloud of sanding
this that I'm sucking up in my lungs
the other benefit is that the dust has
gone and now i can see if I'm finished
sanding yet I've got a couple of
holidays here some stuff on the top so i
need to keep going just a little bit
longer with 320
but here's the real point of using the
shop back for extraction
if you hit it with an air hose there's a
chance that you can blow that sanding
dust into a pinhole if you've got filler
work and you didn't know it was there
it's going to show up in your paint job
and cause you problems cause you a
solvent creator of fish I by extracting
the desk to pull it out of those
pinholes and they'll show themselves to
you before you paint think about it
so now that I've got the surface exposed
sand into i'm going to start using
gloves because if it's a hot and sweaty
day the sweat and the acid from my
fingers can be deposited into the paint
job and come up through that clear
especially on a black ask me how I know
so we're going to start with 400 so 400
is the same drill but interestingly
enough when you change grits and you've
sanded thoroughly to look at the panel
changes
so again the black toque a primer for me
to it acts kind of as its own guide felt
even as you're switching grits moving up
through your project
yeah
red scuffing pads work great for
inconsistent areas like this because you
still want the paint to stick you don't
want to peel off and if it's not sanded
it's not going to stick
so these make short work of these types
of areas you can fold it over
do your inner crevices and cracks and
just like I say in the paint education
dvds the harder it is to sand the more
important it is to sand it places like
this
this is not where you want delamination
when your car is put together and go
down the road
i'm using my 402 hands--and if I blocks
and across this this is just a line from
the inner fender being pressed
well I'm going to knock the top off i'm
not getting down in the group so with
the gloves with the finger sanding
I can get down in here and prep these
surfaces
ok here's a problem that you might have
if you remember we put filler on these
edges to close up our panel gaps and
look here there's a low spot
so if i get in there with a sanding
block and I block that flat well I've
changed the fitment of the fender to the
hood I've created a gap there
so this is a technique I want to show
you on how to get away with that you
could fill that in and it won't show up
in your paint job when you open up that
hood
this is a contour polyester glazing
putty and the catalyst that goes with it
and this is a razor blade the reason I
use a razor blade so i can get a very
small amount in a little bit of catalyst
and I can mix it up with more catalyst
people like Bob Ross here but I can mix
it up and get a very small amount and go
in and fix that pin hole with a very
very tiny amount and I can judiciously
apply it with my razor blade very flat
it's a minimal amount
so my filters been sitting for a couple
of minutes it's sort of hard
I've got 320 on a block and eastwood
pre-painting prep
now here's where you got to know the
rules before you can break them this is
dry sanding paper and this is a wet
solvent but this is going to work so i'm
using my pre-painting prep and a wet
sanding situation
what that does is allow me to fill the
low spot the solvent activates the
filler but not the cured primer around
it so I'm not digging into the sides i'm
filling in and I'm leveling and I'm
doing it quick and now I'm ready for a
cedar and topcoat and you're never going
to know that space was there and just to
explain it again my filter is much
softer than the cured primer around it
the solvent makes it even softer so it
makes it easy for me to level this piece
down not affect the edge around did not
affect my panel fit between two panels
and I fill in my pin hole
so it's just a nice technique in one
that you can you can get away with
something door if it's not really the
intended purpose of that product but it
works great
right now we're going to wipe it down
get it wet see what it looks like and
get the first layer of dust off first
before you wet check the final wife
solvent
now the last final step that I like to
do on something like this before paint
is to wash it with soapy water use
dishwashing soap too because it cuts the
grease but before we do that I wanted to
show you are cool custom z28 side
advance from the factory the z28 side
gills went on from the outside and to me
they always had kind of a cheap look
because it's a cast metal
it's not that great and the kind of
bulges up so all we did was figure out a
clamping mechanism from the back side
and mounted them from the reverse and is
such a clean tasty tidy look that cost
nothing
we hope all these tips and tricks really
help you get the job done and don't
forget to subscribe to our YouTube
channel before picking up the supplies
you need to do the job right
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