Two billion years ago,
a giant meteorite
collided with Earth,
releasing enough energy
to vaporize solid rock.
A site of total devastation,
its effects rippled
throughout Africa.
But over the course of time,
life conquered the barren lands.
And today, the crater's past
is all but forgotten.
This ancient landscape creates
a haven for the unique plants
and animals
of the Vredefort Dome.
(♪♪♪)
Lying in the grasslands
of Southern Africa's
interior plateau
is a little known wonder.
185 miles wide
and six miles deep,
the Vredefort crater
is an ancient world.
Forged when a giant meteorite
collided with earth,
it was one of the largest
impacts ever to hit our planet.
The vast mass of rock was
thought to have been
six miles in diameter
and traveling at
44,000 miles an hour.
But over the course of time
the crater's scars healed
and life not only began to
arrive in the desolate lands,
it thrived here.
(♪♪♪)
Signs of the impact are now
only visible from space.
At the very center
of the collision,
is what is known as
the Vredefort Dome.
Mountains of ancient rock
lie in rich, fertile grasslands.
Whilst rivers and wetlands
provide the water
needed for
life to flourish.
Today, the mountains
of the Vredefort Dome
are the most prominent feature
on the landscape.
Surrounded by seas
of undulating grassland,
they hold clues
to the crater's past.
Rounded granite boulders
embedded in a black glassy
obsidian layer
are the result of colossal
forces exerted during the impact
liquefying rock.
These outcrops were once
the giant canvas
for some of the
world's first artists.
Ancient engravings, left by
Bushmen who once sheltered here,
tell of a landscape
rich in life.
It is thought the Vredefort
crater may have played
an important role
in human evolution.
Some even believe that without
the major evolutionary changes
the impact caused,
we would not be here today.
However the crater
links to our past,
we have been drawn to it
for shelter, food
and in the search for wealth.
These tunnels were dug by gold
prospectors decades ago.
When the meteor struck,
it fractured rock
deep beneath
the surface of the Earth,
pushing South Africa's gold
reserves deep underground.
Here the gold was preserved
from erosion,
laying the foundation
for South Africa
to become the world's biggest
exporter of the precious metal.
Abandoned as unproductive,
these tunnels now offer shelter.
Horseshoe bats
have taken up residence.
Hunting on the wing,
they consume flying insects
from the night sky.
And they are not the only ones
making the most
of the tunnels' refuge.
Cave toads also shelter
in the darkness.
From the very base of the
mountains, life is provided for.
The Vredefort crater's unique
mix of landscapes and vegetation
make it a special place
for wildlife.
Grasslands dominate South
Africa's high interior plateau.
It is here that the mountains
of ancient rock form islands,
rich in species not normally
found on the open plains.
Higher up the mountainside
a pair of Mocking cliff chats
are calling.
The territorial birds defend
sections of the rocky hillside.
And this pair have a reason
to be protective...
they have a couple
of new arrivals.
Their recently fledged chicks
are getting a feel for life
outside the nest.
The rising hills provide shelter
for flowering plants
and trees to grow,
attracting a new cast
of creatures.
From Long-horned beetles...
to kudu.
These majestic antelope
are browsers,
feeding on trees and bushes.
Rarely found out
on the open grasslands,
they are drawn here by food.
And they are not the only ones
tempted away
from the plains below.
At over 16 feet tall, giraffes
have the pick of the canopy.
Being able to eat from all
levels of the tree
gives them a valuable edge
when conditions are poor.
The mountain vegetation
provides food for the largest
and for the
smallest of creatures.
Chafer beetles feed,
moving from flower to flower.
Along the way
they transfer pollen,
pollinating the plants
in the process.
It's a win-win scenario for both
the beetles and the flowers.
But the chafers are looking
for a bigger meal...
and around here,
they don't need to go far.
The flowers of
the Sugar Bush Protea
are famed for their
abundant, sweet nectar.
And the chafers seem to agree.
This plant is more than
just a source of food
for the local insects;
it is part of
a unique relationship.
Growing out of the rough-barked
stems is a parasitic mistletoe.
It grows directly
from the sugar bush,
taking the nutrients it
needs from its host.
But the mistletoe
is itself a host plant.
The caterpillar
of the Sapphire butterfly
lives only on the
leaves of the protea mistletoe,
feeding off it until it is ready
to begin the next stage
of its metamorphosis.
Over the next two to three weeks
this lowly caterpillar
will transform
into a Sapphire butterfly.
For this butterfly the protea
mistletoe is everything.
Without it,
it would not survive.
The Sapphire butterfly exists
here in the Vredefort Dome
due to a specific set
of conditions,
which would not have come about
had the meteorite not struck
all those years ago.
Over 100 species
of butterfly now live
in its 115 square miles.
More than double the number
found in the whole
of the United Kingdom.
And they're not only here
for the host plants.
In sexual selection, many
butterflies resort to a behavior
known as "hilltopping".
Males fly to the highest point
of the mountain
and occupy a prominent perch
until a female appears.
When she does, the males
take off in a courting flurry.
Flying to the very tops of hills
demonstrates their
physical prowess.
And therefore their strength
as a mate.
These mountains provide food,
shelter and opportunities
for a range of animals
perfectly adapted to
their unique ecosystem.
Cutting through
the Vredefort crater
is one of South Africa's
largest rivers.
A vital water source,
the Vaal winds its way
through more than six hundred
miles of the country
on its westward journey
toward the Atlantic ocean.
Its route courses straight
through the crater,
providing habitats
for a range of life.
Sacred Ibises are early risers,
making the most of what
the river has to offer.
The flock probes the mud
searching for crabs, worms,
frogs and anything else
they can find.
Later in the day, they'll head
to the grasslands to hunt.
The river is a magnet
for bird life of all kinds.
From wagtails,
to Yellow-billed ducks.
A Nile monitor enjoys
the morning sun.
At three feet in length
it is only half the size
it will eventually reach.
Cold blooded, the reptile needs
the sun's heat to warm its blood
before it can start to hunt.
Once fully charged, it heads off
in search of breakfast.
With predators about,
this White-browed sparrow-weaver
is taking no chances.
He's building his nests high up
in the branches of a thorn tree.
In a land covered with grass,
supplies should be
easy to come by.
But this weaver
only uses the best--
he's using it
to attract a mate.
Two entrances allow the weaver
to make a swift getaway
should a predator find the nest.
However,
once he has found a mate
and she has laid her eggs
he will have to seal
the back door for protection.
A male Red Bishop
is also showing off.
But he doesn't only
rely on his DIY skills.
During the breeding season
his feathers turn bright red
to attract females.
If he's successful
he'll mate with as many
as eight in a season.
Throughout the day many other
species are drawn to the water.
But not all are in search
of sustenance.
Damselflies use
stagnant pools to mate.
The male uses special grasping
clips on his tail
to hold the female often
for more than an hour.
His clips fit into neat
depressions behind her head,
locking tight.
Each species has
a unique lock and key.
Even once the pair has mated,
the male's job is not done.
The female begins
laying her eggs
and the male retains
his vice-like grip.
If he leaves, other males
will remove his sperm
and mate with her,
so he remains with his partner
until she has
finished laying.
These waters support many
different life forms.
The Goliath heron
is the largest heron species
and requires a lot of food.
Despite this
they are selective hunters,
spending as much as
75% of their time
standing completely still,
waiting for just the right size
prey to cross their path.
Under a hot African sun
the birds can't sweat
to cool down.
To solve the problem they have
developed a technique
called "gular fluttering"
similar to the panting of dogs.
By rapidly moving air through
a pouch in their throats,
which has a rich blood supply,
they are able
to cool their bodies.
The Vaal is a crucial feature
in the Vredefort landscape,
providing water that is so vital
for supporting life.
From here,
it flows westward
on its long lonely journey
to the sea,
striking out across
the Highveld grasslands.
In the summer months
the grasslands
on the outskirts of
the Vredefort crater come alive.
The rains have come
and new life is everywhere.
The open grassy plains,
which have lain dormant
all through the dry cold winter,
have rebounded.
And the animals have
a new spring in their step.
At first glance these grasslands
may look flat and uniform.
But they harbor
a unique variety of life.
A Long-tailed widowbird
is looking for a mate.
Dragging his enormous tail
behind him,
he is showing off
with a display of strength.
Males are territorial.
And they perch
on prominent vegetation
to advertise their presence.
Before taking to the wing
to perform.
Their tail feathers can be up
to forty inches long
and drag below them
as they patrol their territory.
While his tail is cumbersome his
efforts are likely to pay off.
If successful, he will mate
with as many as five females
during the season.
These grasslands support
the weird...
and the wonderful.
The white rhino is the largest
grazer on the planet
and the biggest animal
ever to have existed
solely on a diet of grass.
The short, sweet, nutrient-rich
blades of the summer
are a welcome treat.
Across the plains animals
are making the most
of the flush of life.
Secretary birds use their legs
as weapons,
stamping larger prey species,
including venomous snakes,
to death.
And this pair are busier
than usual.
With two hungry mouths to feed
they have their work cut out.
A family of Ground squirrels
keeps a wary eye
on the Secretary birds.
Their pups could be prime
targets for the predators.
Luckily for the chicks,
their arrival coincides
with the explosion of new life.
For the rhino mother and calf,
the grasslands
pose little danger.
In the natural world adults
are practically invincible.
They have sharp horns
and thick armored skin
too tough for most predators.
But calves are more vulnerable
so mothers keep them close
until they are big enough
to fend for themselves.
For smaller species
the open spaces of the
grasslands are a problem.
Out here, they are exposed
to predators.
Ground squirrels have adapted
to the dangers of the grassland
by building their warrens
underground.
But when there aren't any
predators about,
they come to the surface.
Extremely sociable animals
they live in large groups
of up to 19 individuals.
As a result, socializing is
an important daily activity.
Males live separately
and will only visit
when the females
are ready to mate.
For the rest of the time,
groups of dominant females
live together with up to
nine sub-adults
and the females'
dependent offspring.
When food is abundant and there
aren't predators around,
family life is relaxed.
Another unique burrower
has chosen a life
below ground on
these grassy plains.
A Giant girdled lizard,
known locally as a Sungazer.
Burrowing makes them unusual.
They are the only girdled
lizards to do so.
All the other species
live in or on rocks.
But here,
in the open grasslands
suitable rock homes
are not common.
So if a predator attacks
it dives underground.
Nearby, an Amur falcon
is on the hunt.
But part of life
on the grassland
is knowing what's a
threat and what's not -
and this Amur falcon subsists
almost entirely on beetles,
locusts and other,
smaller insects.
These thrive in the grasslands,
meaning that prey is plentiful,
competition for
resources is minimal
and these falcons can exist here
in remarkably high densities.
For the pair of Secretary birds
life is tougher.
They need bigger prey
and far more of it.
The chicks are
increasingly hungry.
But it will be another two
months before they stride out
onto the grasslands
for themselves
and life returns to normal.
For all animals, finding food
is an essential part of life.
One group has developed
a unique way
of getting their
daily nourishment.
After rain, butterflies
congregate around puddles
on the ground.
Once they have drunk their fill,
something surprising happens.
They begin to excrete liquid.
This method allows the
butterflies to filter the water,
absorbing important nutrients
without having to store
all the fluid.
A variety of insects obtain the
moisture and nutrients they need
in this way.
Where there are
lots of butterflies
there are lots
of caterpillars.
And from the very first day
these are under threat.
To compensate, caterpillars have
developed many strategies
to prevent themselves
being eaten.
Some hide away,
whilst others fight back.
They grow long, fibrous hairs
that deal a nasty sting
to anything that disturbs them.
Others rely on their host plants
for protection.
The Spotted joker feeds
on stinging nettles,
which deter predators.
Monarch butterflies have taken
toxic warfare to a new level.
Their caterpillars retain toxins
from their host plant
in their body tissue
during metamorphosis.
And adult butterflies emerge as
unpalatable as the caterpillars.
This has been so successful
for the Monarchs,
other butterflies
have mimicked them.
Not poisonous themselves
predators avoid them,
thinking they are.
Throughout the natural world,
the predator-prey dynamic
drives evolution.
A family of Meerkats
is on the lookout.
Meerkats live
in close family groups
comprising a dominant
female and her mate
and many generations
of offspring.
In times of plenty,
groups can number
as many as 30 individuals.
The larger the family, the more
eyes to spot predators.
At the first sign of danger,
they disappear into the safety
of their burrow.
But occasionally,
they decide to fight back.
Even if the towering ostrich
doesn't pose any sort of threat.
Dotted throughout the Vredefort
crater's grasslands
are wetlands and pans.
The availability of permanent
water attracts animals
from all around.
Where there is water,
there is always life.
Common plantaina frogs feast
on insects above the surface.
With pockets of life dotted
throughout the crater,
in its mountains,
rivers and wetlands,
animals gather in their greatest
numbers on the grasslands.
The plains are home
to the grazers.
Black wildebeest live in mixed
herds of females and youngsters,
moving through the territories
of adult males.
During the mating season,
males corral females
on their territory into harems.
And will defend their right
to mate with them all.
But they have a job on their
hands keeping them all in check.
Black wildebeest were brought
to the brink of extinction
during the 19th century.
Between 1870 and 1871 alone,
the skins of nearly half
a million black wildebeest,
blesbuck and zebra were exported
from the coastal port of Durban.
Before the scourge of hunting,
these three species dominated
South Africa's high grasslands
along with springbok.
Moving in herds of thousands.
Today, they only exist in
fragmented pockets
isolated among miles and miles
of farmland.
Despite the apparent
abundance of food,
much of this tall grass
is fibrous and of little value.
The animals that live on these
plants have developed
a number of ways to cope
with this low-quality fodder.
Blesbuck are pure grazers.
They eat selectively, consuming
only grasses that provide them
with the nutrients they need.
Springbok complement their grass
diet with a range of succulents,
herbs, and shrubs
in order to survive.
And another resourceful
herbivore is the buffalo.
They are predominantly grazers,
eating a large variety
of grasses.
Buffalo will chew, swallow,
regurgitate
and continue to chew,
in order to break down
the high cellulose content
of their food.
Ensuring they get the most
out of their meal.
Zebra and wildebeest
often occur together
because there is little
competition between them.
Zebra have evolved a
digestive system adept
at removing nutrients and
protein from fibrous grasses.
They often clear the way
to shorter, sweeter grasses
for the wildebeest.
On these grasslands animals have
found a niche for themselves
allowing them all to happily
coexist side-by-side.
But it's not always peaceful.
Two male giraffes are battling
for the right to rule.
The hard bony heads
can inflict serious damage.
Fights can go on for hours
before a winner finally emerges.
A drawback faced by all animals
on the open grasslands
is that there is nowhere
to hide.
Living side-by-side benefits
some through safety in numbers.
But they are all
built for speed.
In large open spaces
such as this
their first instinct
when startled
is to break and run.
But predators have long
disappeared from the crater.
And it is only
an evolutionary impulse
that drives them to flee.
This strategy is in stark
contrast to that employed
by the bulkier buffalo.
These are built for power.
If threatened,
the herd rarely breaks and runs.
Both bulls and cows
have formidable horns.
While cows use their horns
predominantly for protection...
bulls use theirs in fights
to establish dominance
with the herd.
Which are strictly hierarchical
with dominant individuals
winning the right to occupy
the center of the gathering.
Inferiors hang on the fringes
where they are more exposed
to threats.
For both of these old timers
a life of solitude
is full of danger.
The grasslands support
many giants.
Including the largest antelope
in the world - Eland.
Contests for dominance here
are usually settled
without coming to blows.
Status is determined by a range
of clear visual signals,
including the size
of the dewlap -
the fleshy skin below the
throat.
Mature males will also rub the
furry patch on their foreheads
in dirt and urine, turning it
into a smelly, caked mass.
This strong odor is associated
with strength and dominance.
Like many of the animals
out on the plains,
eland have not lost
their instinct to flee.
They will dash for safety,
but unlike the smaller antelope,
they haven't evolved
for speed and quickly tire.
Instead, they turn
to stand their ground
against the
perceived threat.
Grouping around
in defense of their young.
Protecting your family
is a daily struggle
for many of the
grassland residents.
Male Red hartebeest
establish territories
to protect their
females and offspring.
Excellent eyesight helps them
spot both intruders
and potential predators.
Herds are strictly organized.
Females establish
a dominance hierarchy
and youngsters remain
with their mothers
for up to two and a half years.
The vast numbers of grazers
draw in even larger
numbers of insects.
Which swarm during
the rainy season.
Even the toughest suffer.
Zebra use their long tails
as much as anything else,
but they have another
ingenious advantage--
their famous stripes.
Blood sucking flies
locate their hosts by sight
and are attracted to large areas
of a single tone.
The zebra's stripes make it
harder to home in on,
and they suffer less
from bites as a result.
Flies are not the only
bloodsuckers around.
Ticks thrive.
Without the benefit of wings,
they sit on the ends of grasses,
waiting for a host to pass by,
climbing on when they get
the chance.
In a delicate arms race,
animals living on these
grasslands
are relatively immune
to diseases
carried by these parasites.
One such host is baboons.
These primates have two
advantages
when it comes
to parasite control.
Cooperation and
opposable thumbs -
which are both essential
for grooming -
an important way of maintaining
social cohesion.
And it also helps
rid yourself of ticks.
Millions of years ago
another slightly more
sophisticated primate
came down from the trees
and strode out
onto the grasslands
of Southern Africa.
Drawn perhaps by
the wide open spaces to hunt
and new territory to claim.
The lands covering
the Vredefort crater
contain a fascinating
array of animals
both big and small.
It is not a uniform world.
But one of intricate details
and unique exceptions.
From tiny caterpillars,
to mighty rivers...
life occurs in abundance.
A reminder that every species
survives
in a fabric of time and space
stretching back
to the very beginning.
(♪♪♪)
