Hey guys it's Kee Doery here from www.KegLand.com.au 
this video is just a quick one on our
new Robobrew generation 3. I know you
guys been waiting for ages for this one
so pretty excited to finally get this
video out there so you can see the
difference between the old model the
generation 2 and the new generation 3
the basic footprint and structure of it
is similar I guess but we have made a
few upgrades we've got a lot of feedback
from customers over the past couple of
years before the generation 2 and ever
basically implemented that and made
those changes firstly a lot of guys have
already sort of noticed from some of the
photos who put online and some of the
chat that's found on the forums
we've changed to camlock fitting on the
recirculation arm so you can see on
this arm over here it now has a camlock
and that's really handy because
firstly it's a more robust fitting than
what we had before but also the
camlocks being a standard fitting these  half-inch camlocks can be
purchased virtually anywhere you can get
your own attachments and then put them
in here and maybe hook up a hose which
goes directly to a some type of chiller
or something like that for instance.  So it makes it a bit more adaptable
having your pump output go through this
tube and straight on to a standard
camlock to interface with later on. The
other thing is we also include some
silicon tubing with the
sparge arm. Previously you used to have to buy silicon
tubing separately but now it comes included with a short piece here you can just put
that on like so.  Not really any need for a hose clamp as
not enough pressure builds up under
this fitting so that just goes on there
like that. We have also made some changes to the malt/barley/mash pipe as well so it looks very
similar I guess and just look like that
but actually it's a thicker stainless
steel than we had before so the thicker
stainless steel means it doesn't get
damaged as easily but the other thing is
with the thickest and the steel we've
been able to grind this edge a bit more
dull some people said that the edge was
a bit too sharp and they could cut their
fingers on it so we had a couple
customers it did sort of mention that so
it basically implemented that change the
other thing which is a subtle change but
it makes quite a big difference is on
the bottom screen on the malt pipe it's
actually
the old Robobrew generation 2
just had one screen like that but now
we've got another mesh screen
and this wire mesh screen goes over the punched screen
like so.  So you are probably wondering "why do we use two screens? It doesnt make any sense"
The idea behind this is that the the bottom screen improves the flow wort.  Through testing that we've
done we get better filtration
effect and it doesn't sort of clog up
if you've got a lot of wheat malt
for instance or if you've got a very
fine grist for instance and you've milled
the hell out of your grain and it's a
really really fine and powdery you know
with that type of system you probably
have a higher chance of getting a stuck
sparge
but now with the double false bottom
screen here that second screen really
helps the flow through of work through
the bottom of the screen so they both
drop down to the bottom like that like
so we've still got the similar top
screen we've made the top screen a
little thicker so actually upgraded the
thickness of the stand still on that one
as well but the top screen which sits
above the grain is more or less the same
we've changed tabs on here slightly but
more or less does the same job look some
people don't even use the top screen
some people will just have the the grain
sitting in here and and just have the
the recirculation arm just running the
works straight on top of the grain bed
so it's up to you.  Definitely one of our staff Oliver, he
basically like being able to get access to the grain so they can stir
it and get a spoon in there and stir the
grain for instance so it's really up to
you whether you use this or not but I do
still use it it may possibly yeah reduce
the chance of getting channeling
potentially but you know that's a pretty
small risk anyway so it's up to you
whether use up the other thing is on the
multi the handle on the malt pipe has
changed slightly so we've changed
the the die which we used to bend the
handles so you'll notice on the other malt pipe
handle it had a straight bar which goes
straight across the top and we did have
some customers who maybe not so strong
or maybe they've got an injury or
something like that for instance and
they find
hard to lift the malt pipe out because it
requires a bit of strength I guess when
you're lifting a you know up to maybe
8 kilos of grain which is
wet for instance and lifting it up
before he starts barging so now we've
got a little notch on here and that can
be used to attach a pulley or some
system where you can basically pull them
all type out so it really subtle change
but it does help a lot so that way it's
a lot more stable because without that
you tend to get like if you attach a bit
of rope or something it'll slide across
from one side the other and become
unstable so that's changed. The covers on
the switches have changed a little bit
so now we've got the splash proof covers
on the switches look it's still not
absolutely waterproof so don't go hosing
the whole you know electronics and
switches down I guess but yeah it does
help a little bit having those on the
front with the false bottom also this
possible is the false bottom which
protects the pump so we basically put
that in place if you let's say you've
got a recipe where it where there's lots
of like hop flowers or something like
that for instance that type of thing if
you just sort of straighten the boil it
could get sucked down into the pump and
then cause the pump blockage so that's
what this one's for this one hasn't
changed too much we've just got a little
ring pool here which is just a little
bit more ergonomic than two tabs we had
before and also it's a little bit
stronger we found like had a couple
instances where they're spot welds on
tabs have come off so we basically
change the design of that one so that's
changed also with the display that's
probably one of the biggest changes so
now actually the display it's got a six
step a six step programmable
display here so you can actually program
the display to jump up and down in
temperature let's say I've got a
specific mash profile you want to go
through or something like that and that
helps you really get a repeatable result
if you're making your beer you know let's
say jumping up to say seventy degrees
after you know half an hour or whatever
and then you you know you've got a
certain mash out profile or something
like that then you can basically program
that in so for next time.
The program will display is also a
bit handy for preheating water the next
day so yeah if you want to preheat water
so if you want to fill this up for instance the
night before and then just after dinner
you might program the display to start
heating water it let's say six o'clock
in the morning so you know by the time
you get to say nine o'clock you've
already preheated all your water to start your brew day that's a bit handy as well and
lastly the graduations on the inside as
well that was an issue with the
Robobrew generation 2 we did find the
graduations weren't really very accurate
so basically tightened up the tolerances
quite a lot and they are now much
more accurate graduations on the side of
the unit.  So that mostly covers it
we are also now starting to sell quite a
few of the reflux and pot still/distillation attachment so I'll
just quickly show these to you these are
purchased separately and you'll have to
check the legalities with your
particular country whether you can use
these stills or not because obviously
distilling in different countries is
quite a lot of regulations depending on
where you are but with the distillation
yeah you've got a different lid which
you need purchase the the the glass lid
is what comes with the Robobrew but if you want to do distillation
you have to buy separately looks like
this so it's a stainless steel lid with
a 47mm hole in the top
and that's one of the reasons actually
why these clamps are on there is to make
an airtight seal on them so you can use
it for distillation but a lot of people
didn't really realize that on the older
models we're going to explain that so
well the stills are really easy to fit
there's a reflux still and there's also
a pot still that we sell
so obviously reflux is for making pure a
neutral spirit like let's say vodka or
something like that for instance so you
should make pure ethanol and use it for
sanitizing stuff or something so you can
do that also got this pot still so I
know the pot still has been of a unique
interest to a lot of people buying the
Robobrew because obviously you can make
your work and do your mash for your
whisky and then you can use the pot
still to make a real whisky as opposed
to using essences like you would with
this type of reflux still so that's kind
of exciting these are really easy to
attach you basically just get the lid
and you do this nut up from the inside and
they just clamp down like that with
these spring clamps and away you go so
look I'll probably do another video
on the stills later I just want to do a
short intro and those give it a
cross-promotion I guess all righty now
let me just show you the display on this
new generation 3 controller so what you
do is you just power it up like this
instantly when you power it up its gonna
jump into manual mode by default we'll
always go into manual first
so manuals really really simple really
there's only a few buttons you're going
to need on manual mode
you've got the temperature button here
then you've got the plus and minus and
the play/pause button so just like
you're watching a video let's say you've
got to pause the button when you make
any changes and then you want to play
when you want to get the brew to start running again as well so so let's
say in this instance I just want to
change the temperature the set
temperature to say 75 degrees so just
keep the pause button there it
temperature go up to go up by 5 degrees
like that and then hit the play button
and any elements will come back on and
start heating up as you can see there's
two numbers on the display here you've
got the number on the bottom is the
target temperature and then the number
on the top is the actual temperature
there so it's 27 degrees in the moment
it's pretty much just cold water in
there and 75 degrees is what raining for
when in manual mode it also says manual
on the bottom left hand corner so that's
how to see which mode you're in anyway
that's pretty straightforward look
probably some of the old farts who can't
work out you know stage temperatures or
whatever this is really great for you
guys but if you want to get a little
more consistency in your brews you may
want to use the stepped mode so now
with the auto mode you just have to hit
the button on the bottom left hand
corner here says auto man so you just
hit that switch it in to auto mode and
you'll see across the top there we've
got an S1 and if you hit this button
here it goes from S1 to S6
the different stages I can program in
there and this can be really useful
especially want to get really repeatable beer that you require stepped mash profile, but
I'm actually gonna set this up
so it pre heats the water for tomorrow
morning's brew so let's go to S1 for
instance and you can see an S1 it's
already programmed at 8 hours there so
I've got 8 hours I might actually make
that a little bit more make out 8 hours
and 15 minutes so it's gonna delay 8
hours and 15 minutes at a temperature of
zero degrees so it's gonna be basically
because it's zero it's not going to heat
anything so yeah I'm just gonna set that
one in there and then on S2 this is what
I want my strike water to heat up to
tomorrow morning so I'm gonna set the
time in this one and set that at five
hours and then I'm gonna hit temperature
and I might make that let's say 75
degrees so just poke that up a little
bit there like that now five hours is
probably more than enough to preheat so
I won't be preheating for that longer
but I'll probably only get two hours in
to be honest with you tomorrow morning
but what I can do tomorrow morning is
once this is already heated up so today
I'm in stage two and it's already
preheated I can just skip the rest of
this time and jump to stage three so
tomorrow morning I can just come in
and pause that by just using the S1 to S6 button to jump to S3 and you can see in S3 I've
got 20 minutes set at 90 degrees that's
probably pretty hot to mash with than
anyway yet I'm gonna hit the play button
and I can just continue on from there so
it's exactly like watching a movie I
guess you can just jump between the
stages and sort of fast-forward and
rewind I guess you might call it and
then just hit the play button or just
play on so it's fairly intuitive to set
up and because there's only six stages
to program it's fairly quick to program
in here
so that's pretty much how to you know
use the programmable display or should
also I should mention that if you have
any of the programs set to zero minutes
you will notice that it'll skip that all
together so you can see S4 here I'm
gonna set that down to zero minutes like
that so now if I try to go back to the
beginning in play here you'll see S4 now
no longer exists it basically just been
canceled so if you have any of these
zero
it'll just skip that whole stage
altogether the other thing you should
know is once you get to stage six or the
last stage that you've programmed in
here it'll hold that temperature
indefinitely so
basically if we look at S5 is the
last program stage we've got in there so
you can see if we just left this running
you know infinitely it's gonna basically
hold it 110 degrees so just keep it
boiling off you know forever yes that's
also important to remember that that's
the case you know when you're setting it
up the other thing you should know and
just in case you're not obvious that
you've got a secondary control here for
the elements so in order for the
elements to turn on you need the
switches to be on here as well as the
controller to be on. Now the reason why
we've done that we originally trialed a
few different models where was all
controlled with the display but if you
can imagine in an instance where let's
say I've got to boil over or something
like that I want to be able to really
quickly just go bang and hit the power
and kill the power to that those
elements I was really important that we
had like the switches on the side here
which can be used like a like an instant
kill switch because sometimes even there
even the time it takes to go into the
menu and go pause you know temperature
make that lower that was too long
sometimes you know if anybody's had a
boil over their brewing you know it's a
pretty urgent situation you just gotta
kill the power instantly so that's the
reason why you know we've got these
switches on the side there like that now
the last thing I wanted to mention was
the emotion chiller this comes included
with the Robobrew  Generation 3 just
like it has in the previous Robobrew as
well. The immersion chiller the reason why
we put it in the kit is because it's
probably the easiest way to chill down
there's other slightly more complicated
chillers like counter flow chillers and
stuff like that which are a little bit
more plumbing and a little more stuffing
around the setup but we feel like the
immersion chiller it can be used two
different ways and it's really really
easy to set up you can either put your
cold water through here and it just runs
through the immersion chill and comes out
the other side and then you just immerse
the entire thing into your boiler like
that and eventually it will cool down
the only problem with that method
is that if you've got a high ambient
water temperature it can sometimes take
a really long time to chill you work
down so a secondary method and one that
which I also wanted to mention because a
lot of people probably aren't aware of
this is you can use the pump on the Robobrew and actually pump your wort through
the recirculation arm here and then
attach it into the into the immersion
chiller and then what we're doing is
we're pumping our hot work through this
coil and then we're gonna get this coil
and stick it in a bucket of ice so this
is really great if we've got a hot
ambient water temperature from our water
tap so and or if you want to save a lot
of water this is a good way as well so
you just get a whole lot of ice out of
your freezer or something like that
dump it in like a big bucket and then
just recirculate out through the sparge
um and then from this side back into the
boiler again so it's just recirculating
if you leave that recirculating for say
20 minutes or so you should be starting
to get pretty close to your pitching
temperature so that's another little tip
I just want to share with you guys
okay well that concludes our Robobrew
generation 3 video for today if you need
any more information be sure to just
send us an email or you can see a fair
bit of information on our website
including instruction manual and stuff
like that if you need to get hold of a
Robobrew there's now distributors
across the globe so in the States in
Canada we just got the electrical
approvals for the generation 3 we've got
a number of distributors in Europe and
throughout Asia so yeah if you need to
get hold of one and can't find one just
send us an email or just have some of
your local homebrew store and see if
they can get them in stock for you the
other thing I should say is there's a
fairly active Facebook group so you can
join the Robobrew users group you
should be able to find that there's a
link on the website and how to get to
that one is there's a Robobrew users
group for Australia and there's a
separate one for the States or if you're
in a different country can just join one
of those groups anyway but there's heaps
of information on there for users who
have actually gone on there and
commented on how to get the most out of
it or recipes and stuff like that like
people are sharing and that's about it
so yeah please subscribe to our channel
if you have the time and I'll see you
guys next time bye
