 
### Allano's Travels in

### Mexico and Guatemala

### By Allan Taylor

### Table of Contents

Introduction

Mexico City ***** The Silver Cities

Guanajuato ***** Uruapan

Monarchs of the Mountain

Acapulco and Pacific Beaches

Mexico City Again ***** Grand Pyramid of Cholula

Oaxaca Interlude ***** Yucatan Mysteries

Belize ***** Guatemalan Traverse ***** Safety in Numbers

Tikal Ruins ***** Lago Atitlan ***** Jade at Antigua

Gemstones of Mexico and Guatemala

Copan Ruins in Honduras ***** Pyramids Compared

Gulf of Honduras ***** Nicaragua

Costa Rica & Panama

Conclusions

Copyright 2013 Allan Taylor

Smashwords Edition

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Photo Attribution

Cover image is of El Castillo at Chichen Itza in the Yucatan. Photo by Eric Baetscher from Wikipedia Commons. (http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Main_Page)

###  Introduction

Life begins at sixty, so they say. It did for me. This ebook is a collection of 20 travel articles (ca 30,000 words) about Mexico and Central America that I had published in various newspapers and magazines ages ago. It seemed a pity to see them fade away into obscurity and be forgotten. They recount my observations and adventures whilst travelling at the age of sixty plus. This is important for several reasons. The sixties decade is the last era to travel comfortably. If you don't make the effort then you will never do so in later life, because of the real possibility of poor health and/or lack of money, and lack of life itself. So make the most of being a spry sixty year old.

I have travelled through Mexico on four visits of two to three months duration. Up-to-date travel information is now added and with links to the Internet, although original data on prices mentioned in the articles are unchanged. A final &&& mark delineates the end of a rescued travel article. Spanish accents in place names have not always been retained because they are not liked by Smashwords, which prefers simple type for conversions.

Before, I have never written about my misadventures since travel writers don't like to look stupid. Here I include some worrying incidents and how they were overcome. Every trip of a few months duration will have some life-threatening incident where, if you make the wrong decision, you could end up much poorer, mugged or dead. Now that I am safely retired I can write and explain what happened. Mostly this ebook is about roaming Mexico and Guatemala with brief excursions further south and finally to Panama.

I was born and grew up in New Zealand. This is a wonderful country full of mountains, volcanoes, lakes and rivers full of trout. The countryside is a lush green dotted with sheep and cows. You could not be more isolated from the rest of the cultured world of the Northern Hemisphere, unless you lived on the Falkland Islands, near the southern tip of South America. So naturally, every New Zealander has the urge to travel the world and see if it really exists as portrayed in books. I lived for twenty years in windy Wellington and then opted for Adelaide, South Australia, which has a wonderful Mediterranean climate. Adelaide, for the past fifteen years, has become my base from which to explore those parts of the world that interest me most, namely Latin America. So let's start with Mexico and Central America.

How to get to Mexico from Australia? There are no direct flights, like as from Sydney. You have to fly to Los Angeles, USA and change planes for Mexico City. Twice I entered Mexico by bus from the USA, crossing the border at Nogales and Nuevo Laredo. The cheapest way now is to fly Japan Airlines to Tokyo, stay free overnight and next day go via Vancouver, Canada, overflying the US, to land at Mexico City.

**MEXICO  
** My first visit to Mexico was in November 1995. I was travelling alone and entered at Nogales from the USA. Nobody was around at the frontier. I walked across and took waiting taxi to the bus terminal. I caught a bus to Los Mochis and stayed overnight at a cheap hotel. Next day I was up early to catch the train to Copper Canyon and to stop over at Creel. My lack of exist and entry stamps on my passport proved rather embarrassing at subsequent border crossings. I was told "You can't leave because you are not here!" This was difficult to explain in my Ossie Spanish. Eventually I arrived in Mexico City for the first time.

Mexico City

The largest city in the world, so they say, with more than 25 million people and possibly the worst air pollution! Would the pilot see the airport for smog, I wondered?

For this reason, I had ambivalent feelings about flying to Mexico City. Better go by bus. I was loath to leave the sun and surf of Acapulco, the premier Mexican Pacific beach resort. To visit "el DF" as the locals call it (el Distrito Federal), was a daunting thought. I took a luxury bus ride to the capital. The highway climbs through rocky, barren mountains studded with cacti. Isolated corn fields and children riding donkeys broke the monotony.

Mexico City sprawls across the altiplano at 2240 meters altitude and is ringed by mountains. Automobile exhausts and industrial pollution can create a great smog, especially when the phenomenon of thermal inversion occurs. This happens when the warm Pacific air flows over the Valley of Mexico and traps the cooler polluted air at ground level which rapidly becomes even more polluted.

Air pollution levels are continually monitored. At a specific high level there is a mandatory reduction in certain industrial activity and use of automobiles is discouraged. People are advised to stay indoors and if venturing on the streets, to wear a "mascarilla", or face mask. One occasion during my December visit visibility was down to 4 kms briefly, otherwise things were OK. This means there are no twinkling stars at night time.

I arrived at Terminal Sur full of apprehension. But slowly this evaporated! I found the taxis well organized. I went to a kiosk and explained where I want to go, paid a standard fee, got my ticket and fronted up to the taxi rank.

_"Lléveme al zócalo, por favor."_ I wanted to go to the central plaza. My Lonely Planet Guide mentioned several economical backpackers close to the Zocalo.

The Zócalo is one of the world's biggest plazas measuring 240 meters square. A monster size Mexican flag flies in the center. The entire northern side is taken up with the Metropolitan Cathedral, perceptibly leaning this way and that, and on the east side is the National Palace and entrance underground to the metro station.

The metro is fantastic! For only a few pesos you can go anywhere all day with transfers on nine lines. The trains are rubber-wheeled, long, crowded, fast and zoom by every 30 seconds or so. The 135 metro stations are modern, often with shopping malls. Amazingly, the metro actually goes to the airport and all four major bus terminals!

Taxis are plentiful and inexpensive, especially the VW beetles. The net result is that Mexico City, although huge, is easy to get around in.

The natural starting point to explore Mexico City is the Zócalo. Formerly this was the center of the lakeside Aztec city of Tenochtitlan, which was a thriving metropolis with a population estimated at 200,000 when discovered and later destroyed by Spanish conquistador, Hernán Cortés, in 1520 AD. He rebuilt the city as the Spanish capital of the New World.

Much of the paving stone in the Zócalo is derived from destroyed Aztec buildings. The foundations of the Great Pyramid are preserved in the block adjacent to the Cathedral. On site is the superb Museo del Templo Mayor which records the development of human habitation here.

Next door is the National Palace, now home of the Mexican President, the Federal Treasury and National Archives. It was built by Cortés on the site of the palace of Emperor Montezuma II. The main attraction for tourists today is the display of dramatic historical murals by Diego Rivera, that adorn the walls of the balconies overlooking the central courtyard.

The guardians of Federal authority are conspicuous around the Zócalo making it one of the safest places in Mexico for the tourist to roam. The policemen are polite and helpful. On a busy street corner I got a tap on the shoulder by a gun-wielding cop. "No photographs, please," and he explained, "in Mexico you are not allowed to photograph banks." Actually, I was trying to photograph a shoeshine stall across the road with my telephoto lens, not realizing there was a bank with guards carrying automatic weapons in the background!

Further west about a kilometer is the central park of the Alameda. This old part of the city along Cinco de Mayo and Madero has a fascinating range of shops and restaurants housed in 16 to17th century buildings. At Donceles 80 is a bevy of second-hand book shops. Shops selling silverware and wedding paraphernalia seemed predominant. There are a host of museums and galleries to visit.

The modern buildings, including museums, bus and metro stations and skyscrapers, are magnificently designed, impressive for size and practicality, yet they do not seem intrusive amongst the colonial treasures. The main boulevard of Mexico City is the Paseo de Reforma which runs SW from the Alameda park down to Chapultepec Park. The glass skyscraper housing the Stock Exchange is impressive.

The major banks and top hotels are found in the Zona Rosa, located about 2 km from the Alameda, in the few blocks south of the Reforma at the point of El Angel, the gilded angel Statue of Liberty. This is an upmarket area of fancy restaurants and night-spots.

After absorbing all the central city attractions there were two "must-do" items on the agenda. Firstly, a visit to the National Museum of Anthropology, secondly the ancient city of Teotihuacan, with its famous Pyramids of the Sun and Moon.

This huge Museum of Anthropology is the work of famous Mexican architect Pedro Ramirez Vasquez and was built in the 1960's. Each room is devoted to some aspect of pre-colonial Mexican life. The Teotihuacán Room has models of this ancient city which you can visit in real life. It lies 50 kms NE of the city center. There are two ways of getting there. Either you go on an organised bus tour or make your own way by metro and bus, and stay all day for only a few dollars. I did the latter, but then splashed out on organised tours to the Sunday bullfight and the silver city of Taxco.

Teotihuacán is awe-inspiring. The Pyramid of the Sun was built about 150 AD and was followed by other temples and palaces, and the Pyramid of the Moon, covering an area of 20 sq. kms in a broad sun-scorched valley. At its peak in 500 AD it was the sixth largest city in the world, but by the 7th century this civilization fizzled out and the city was abandoned. An extended drought and lack of water is now thought to be the cause. Today it swarms with tourists, like columns of ants climbing to the stony summits where high priests used obsidian knives to carve out the hearts of their sacrificial victims.

Being located in Central Mexico one tends to stop over in the city at least twice on each visit to Mexico. So far now I have done so about a dozen times and always find something new to see. Mexico City is on my list of favorite cities of the world! It is a place you can return to many times to be inspired, to enjoy new experiences, and relish past ones. Viva México! &&&

**Life in Mexico Ages Ago  
** Recently I had much pleasure reading the classic travel book **"Life in Mexico"** , first published in 1843, written by Frances Calderon (Mme Frances Calderon de la Barca, Wife of the Spanish Ambassador to Mexico). This travel book of 542 pages provides a detail account of life in Mexico City during the two years (1838-39) of her stay as a diplomat's wife. Travel was by stage coach and horseback to the neighboring towns of Chatpultepec, Cuernavaca, Puebla and Veracruz. Find out what life was like before the automobile and television was invented! Many modern reprints of this book are available.

Try a Mexican Beer

The early Aztecs and Mayans were a dab hand at making home-brewed beers from any sugary stuff that would ferment using wild yeasts, but there is controversy whether they actually figured out the distillation process to convert these beers into hard liquor. This transfer of technology to the New Spain was brought about in the 16th century with the arrival of the Conquistadors.

The early Indian beers included _pulque_ made from the cactus-like Agave and _chicha_ made from corn.

The Agave is long lived and flowers but once .in a decade and then dies. When flowering commences a cut is made near the base to drain off the stored sugary sap every day with a tube. Months of drainage may produce over 200 gallons until it runs dry and the plant dies. It would have died after flowering anyway. The sap ferments within a day producing a beer of about 4% alcohol. Often other fruits are added to the brew. Pulque is served fresh and is full of active yeasts and bacteria. It is a health food with lots of B and C vitamins and comparable to yoghurt, but is said to be an acquired taste. Canned and pasturized versions of pulque are now available served in cantinas, and the raw stuff is found in Indian villages.

Corn beer presented more of a problem since corn grain is essential starch. The traditional method was to chew the crushed grain and then spit it into the fermenting vessel to start the process. The saliva provided the enzymes needed to convert the starch to sugar which was then fermented to alcohol by the wild yeasts always present. Also, the corn stalks contained a little sugar, like the more prolific sugar cane that was brought to Mexico by Columbus. The stalks were crushed and juice extracted for making corn-stalk beer. These corn beers are known as _chicha._ Modern day breweries sometimes add 10 to 20% corn grains to the barley mash to provide a flavour variation. Familiar Mexican beer brands are Sol, Dos Equis XX Amber and Lager, and Corona Extra, which are exported worldwide.

### The Silver Cities

The old Spanish colonial towns of Taxco, Guanajuato and Zacatecas are located not too far from Mexico City. They are the "silver cities" of Mexico, which are beautifully preserved like they were in colonial times, but now they thrive on tourism.

The great wealth produced by silver mining during colonial times of the 16th to 18th centuries, financed lavish mansions for the "silver barons", ornate cathedrals, theaters, and impressive government palaces that made New Spain truly a rival of the mother country.

Where to start your tour of the silver cities? Let's try Taxco.

Taxco is a fascinating silver town located in the mountains about 160 kms south west of Mexico City.

Taxco town was settled in 1529 by order of conquistador Cortes. The first Spanish mine in the North American continent was started here in 1531. A rich lode of silver ore was exploited using underground techniques. This transfer of European mining technology to the New World eventually produced enormous wealth for the Spaniards.

Taxco is one of the best places to buy silver jewelry. It is a very hilly town with a maze of narrow twisting cobblestone streets. Day bus tours from Mexico City are popular and include a stop at Cuernavaca cathedral (started 1526) with lunch and time for shopping in Taxco. Regular buses leave from Terminal Sur and the trip takes 3 hours.

The silverware range is enormous for variety and value. There are over 150 " _platerias_ ", or silversmiths in town so competition for the tourist dollar is high. You will find silver jewelry set with malachite, lapis lazuli and orange fire opal from Queretaro. Some shops sell mineral specimens and beautiful crystals from the mines. The ladies go berserk. It is a good place to buy men's silver rings which are an easily transportable memento.

North west of Mexico City, some 280 kms and 4 hours by bus is Guanajuato which is the next "silver city" to visit. It is proud to be a UNESCO world heritage site.

Guanajuato is the most fascinating city in Mexico. It sprawls along the bottom of a narrow mountain valley and conveniently the main city streets and parking are underground. The nearby hillsides are a rabbit warren of old mines. The silver barons" became immensely rich and spent profusely on private and public projects. It is a city of fine mansions, theaters, churches, palaces and museums. The University of Guanajuato has a reputation for promotion of the arts with over 15,000 students. The School of Mines and Mineralogical Museum are worth a visit by the geologically minded.

The minibus tour of the city sights is excellent. First stop is the macabre Museo de las Momias having about 150 wizened bodies on display in glass cases. You may encounter classes of school children being ushered through by guides, explaining the details about each corpse which were dug up from the local cemetery and all nicely preserved. Only the best are displayed, others not so good are cremated.

The Valenciana mine and adjacent Templo or Iglesia de San Cayetana (completed 1788) are on a hilltop about 7 kms out of town. The main head frame and shaft over 500 meters deep is still used by miners working a cooperative venture. Tourist buses stop here for the many stalls selling silver jewelry and curios. There is a more extensive handicraft shopping area near the magnificent church some 300 meters away.

Returning down hill you stop off to explore the old mine "El Nopal" which is maintained as a tourist venture by students from the School of Mines. You don hard-hats with electric lights and follow a youthful guide for a 100 meters or so into the hillside. You are informed in Spanish how jackhammers work, and the ventilation and haulage system, roof propping, and visit the ancient stopes, which are huge open spaces left where the silver ore has been removed. You can pray for the miners in the underground capilla, or little chapel, complete with Christ on the cross and surrounded by burning candles.

The next silver city is wonderful Zacatecas located about 600 kms north west of Mexico City and about 7 hours by bus. It is located on the barren altiplano at 2445 meters above sea level, even higher than Mexico City.

The silver mines here were fabulously rich. The silver trail led to Mexico City, thence to Veracruz, the only port allowed to handle trade with Spain. Treasure-loaded galleons braved the pirates of the Caribbean and Sir Francis Drake got his share. Little did the European gentry know of the cruelty and bloodletting embodied in their easy wealth.

Mountains are on either side of the city, which has a population of 110,000. A cable car, or _"teleferico"_ stretches across the valley above the city center. It is a great way to get to the summit of the rocky Cerro de Bufa where you can admire the bronze statue of Pancho Villa on horseback, and view the sprawling city as if from an airplane.

Close to the bottom teleferico station is the tourist entrance to the old El Eden silver mine started by the Spaniards in 1585. It operated continuously until closure in the 1960's. A miniature train travels 200 metres into the hillside. A mining student guide takes you along floodlit walkways across gaping stopes like some underground cathedral. One of the big chambers is now used for evening discos!

The upper levels were dug by the hands of enslaved Indians, destined to be crushed by rock falls, to die from exhaustion or else to succumb to the diseases of silicosis and tuberculosis. Here in the damp gloom you sense their tormented souls still lingering on, wondering whether they are in Heaven or Hell, when the El Eden underground disco whoops it up at the weekends.

Tourists are very welcome at these silver cities of Mexico. They are fascinating and safe places to visit. Your credit card may take a battering but you will leave with wonderful silver mementos that will last a lifetime. &&&

Info on Guanajuato

Guanajuato is my favourite silver city. It has a population of about 120,000, altitude 2017 meters, and is the capital of Guanajuato State, located in the Northern Central Highlands. It is one of the most beautiful cities in Mexico and is of great historical interest. Guanajuato is very much a University town devoted to the promotion of the Arts. Language Schools are popular – this is a favourite spot for foreigners to come and learn Spanish. The city and nearby silver mines are now a UNESCO World Heritage Zone.

How to get there:

By bus from Mexico City (Terminal Norte) 380 kms, 5 hours, cost ca US$20; from Guadalajara 300 kms, 5 hours, US$16. Guanajuato bus terminal is on the flat about 6 kms from the city center, so take taxi to CBD.

Accommodation:

Budget guest houses are plentiful but check Lonely Planet for full range of accommodation available. I have enjoyed staying at Casa Kloster, a family-run hospedaje located at Alonso #30 only a block from Plaza de la Paz. It is a favourite place for travellers and fills up quickly.

What to do?

City life revolves around the Central Jardin de la Union with its immaculate 100 year old Indian laurel trees, sidewalk restaurants, cafes and ornate hotels. Minstrels serenade the diners, student choir groups practice, bands play in the rotunda and orchestral groups perform in the adjacent Teatro Juarez... so it's all go in the evenings. It is a delight to wander around the cobble stone streets because all the major traffic and parking is underground.

Several agencies run mini-bus tours to tourist localities on the outskirts of the city. The most convenient office is on Plaza de la Paz next to the Bascilica. A typical 4 hour tour (50 pesos including entrance fees) takes in the Museo de la Momias, the Valenciana Mine and nearby Templo La Valenciana (opportunity here to buy silverware), an underground tour of an old silver mine (El Nopal) and ending with a magnificent vista of the city from the El Pipila monument located above the Jardin de la Union.

Worth a stop over is the nearby town of **Dolores Hidalgo** , population 40,000, altitude 1955 meters, located 54 kms over the hills from Guanajuato. It is one hour by bus (Flecha Amarilla) every 20 minutes, also it is half way to the rival city of **San Miguel de Allende** , which is popular with foreign students, artists and Americans. &&&

**Silver and Minerals Galore**  
Mexico is a major world silver province in that it has supplied about 30% of all the world's silver, from mines in the altiplano region from Chihuahua south to Durango, Zacatecas, SanLuis de Potosi, Guanajuato, Pachuca and Taxco. Although mining has been going on for over 400 years and major deposits are exhausted there are still some mines in operation. Mineral collectors will be overjoyed to buy many beautiful and rare metal ore specimens offered at specialist shops. Gemstone collectors can find local danburite, topaz, garnet, apatite, opal, fire agate, rainbow obsidian, and rhodochrosite as rough material ready to make into jewellery, or keep as specimens.

###  Guanajuato

Dawn was breaking. Church bells clanged in the Mexican village of Dolores. Indians congregated for Mass. September the 16th, 1810. Father Miguel Hidalgo gave a powerful sermon that immortalised him in Mexican history.

" _El Grito de Dolores"_ the cry went out to take up arms and overthrow the heartless government in Mexico City.

Hidalgo, a Mexican of Spanish descent, was a disaffected _"criolla"_ , who despised the _"peninsulares"_ , the privileged Government officials sent from Spain to rule the colony. Time was ripe for revolution.

In 1808 Napoleon invaded Spain and placed his brother on the throne. The colony of New Spain, ruled by a Viceroy resident in Mexico City, was effectively in limbo.

Hidalgo was appalled by the wretchedness of the Indian slave workers in the silver mines of nearby Guanajuato. He called for the abolition of slavery, equality for all Mexicans and an end to Spanish rule.

Conspirators, excluding Hidalgo, met regualarly to plan the uprising with the Mayoress of Queretero, using the "Society of Fine Arts" as a front organization. The Viceroy got wind of the conspiracy. That night a warning was conveyed to Hidalgo, who rang the church bells.

The rebels armed themselves with machetes, farm tools and sling shots to takeon the trained and well-armed Spaniards. A raggle-taggle army of 20,000 criollas, metizos and Indians attacked Guanajuato where the outnumbered garrison of Spaniards and Royalists was holed up in a grain store, called the Alhondiga. The torched the gates and swept in to kill the defenders.

However, their initial victories were short-lived and the rebel army was defeated on approaching Mexico City. The Spaniards took revenge Hidalgo and three other rebel leaders were executed. As a warning to others, their heads were strung up in iron cages and hung from the four corners of the Alhondiga, in Guanajuato, where they remained from 1811 until the end of the War of Independence in 1822.

The "lottery of death" was instigated, whereby the names of Guanajuato citizens were drawn at random and the unlucky winners were tortured and hung.

The Guanajuato of today is a lively and happy place. Mexico's gem of colonial architecture is a vibrant centre of music and the arts that hums along to the tune of 15,000 often boisterous university students.

I quickly discovered the beautiful Jardin de la Union _,_ the social centre which comes alive in the evenings. I admire the guitarists in flamboyant dress serenading the tourists in crowded hotel restaurants that spread onto the sidewalk beneath the trees. A band plays a jazzy tune from the ornate rotunda. By the magnificent Teatro Juarez a student choir sings and a dance troupe performs outside.

A crowd gathers in front of San Diego church. A band of student songsters holding candles take off up an ancient alleyway and wend their way up the hillside. Like the Pied Piper, hundreds of people follow singing lustily and imbibing vino dispensed from flasks strung over a donkey. This fun weekend tradition, called the _"callejoneados"_ must not be missed. Even now I can hear the mighty singing wafting on the cool midnight air.

The uniqueness of Guanajuato stems from its origin as a mining town built in a mountain ravine. Flat-roofed multi-story houses cling to the hillsides accessed by cobble stoned alleyways, the _callejones. Callejone del Beso_ is so narrow that lovers from adjacent houses can lean from their windows and kiss one another.

To establish a central flat area the ravine was partly filled in and with mining skills the main roadways were made underground, essentially eliminating the visual pollution and congestion of vehicular traffic from this colonial masterpiece.

On the outskirts is the Valencia silver mine, started by the Spaniards in 1558 and is still operating on a small scale as a cooperative venture. For 250 years it produced 25% of New Spain's (Mexico) silver. Within sight of the mine's headframe is the spectacular Templo la Valenciana, a cathedral completed in 1780 and financed by a silver baron. It was customary for wealthy mine owners to build a church to give thanks to God and hopefully receive pardon for use of Indian slave labor thus ensuing a save passage to Heaven.

The enormous wealth of the silver barons was spent on opulent mansions, churches and theatres, making Guanajuato one of Mexico's finest colonial cities. The attractions of this city are endless. Theatres, art galleries and museums abound. The Guanajuato School of Mines has a fine mineral museum worth a visit.

The Museum of Mummies is a macabre affair. Bodies are continually exhumed from the local cemetery to make room for others. Relatives have to pay an annual rental for a grave site. If you are in arrears then your beloved may end up on display in a glass case! It takes about ten years for a body to become mummified. Only a small percentage of corpses are "display quality" and the rest are cremated. We found it crowded with classes of school children being ushered through by guides explaining the details of each corpse.

Diego Rivera, Mexico's most famous painter and muralist, was born in Guanajuato in 1886. We first encountered his magnificent murals depicting life in early Mexico, in the National Palace in Mexico City. The Museo y Casa de Diego Rivera here honours him and has a small collection of his paintings.

I ascend the steep alleyways to the hilltop following the signs _"Al Pipila"_ for a magnificent view of the city. The monument on the summit commemorates the Indian miner, Pipila, who torched the gates of the Alhondiga, only to be mown down by a hail of bullets. Way below I can make out this fortress where Hidalgo's rebels first tasted victory. A plaque on the statue is inscribed _"Aun hay otras Alhondigas por incidiar"_ , or, There are still other Alhondigas to burn. &&&

What's up north?

There are many spots of interest for the tourist coming into Mexico by bus from the USA and travelling south. The route by train from Los Mochis up the Copper Canyon to Creel and finally **Chihuahua** city on the central altiplano is amazing and not to be missed. I did spot one chihuahua dog being lead around its central plaza. From Chihuahua, Route 45 follows the central high plains south to Durango and Zacatecas eventually. There is much to see and do if you have the time available.

Bussing in from Texas, like from San Antonio, crossing at Laredo and heading for the large industrial city of Monterrey is a popular entrance way to Mexico. Monterrey is Mexico's third largest city. It is quite americanised and is the home of baseball and beer (brewing). The real Mexico is further south and up on top of the altiplano.

Wine aficionados must visit **Parras** the birthplace of wine in the Americas where the winery, now called **Casa Madero** , was established in 1597. Tours are available. The town is up in the mountains at 1580 meters altitude and is 160 kms west of Saltillo, near Monterrey.

An unusual place to visit high in the mountains (Sierra Madre Oriente) is the silver mining ghost town of **Real de Catorce** where the bus climbs up to it through an old 2.3 km long access tunnel. Travelling south, recommended stopover places are **San Luis Potosi** and **San Miguel de Allende** which is a town famed for arts and crafts, and retired Americans. The town of **Queretero** is a real gem and a good place to linger and buy opals; but let me now tell you about neighboring **Uruapan**.

### Uruapan

" _Dos cervezas, por favor"_ I said, after greeting the smiling barmaid in Bar Montecarlo located in a rough part of Uruapan, Mexico. We were desperate for a cold beer. My companion Chrissy was somewhat averse to entering a seedy cantina. She scanned the joint with a critical eye. I noticed raised eyebrows on sighting girlie calendars on the walls.

Cold "Victoria " beer arrived promptly plus a free plate of tacos with a delicious avocardo-chili mixture. We were offered a sample of _caldo de camarones_ (prawn soup), the specialty of the day. Some men and girls chatted noisily at the bar. A friendly gaucho with a guitar came and sang us a song all for 5 pesos. A bronzed, moustachioed guy at the next table introduced himself as "Gasper". Chrissy was impressed and took the opportunity to practice her Spanish. It turned out that he owned an avocado ranch in _el campo._

"Would we like to visit the ranch tomorrow?" He would come with his pickup to our hotel at 10 am and it was a 45 minute drive to the ranch. "Yes, please!" we said.

Around the corner from this friendly meeting place we soon found the elusive Internet Café on Calle Juarez, our reason for being in this part of town. Chrissy sent off a bulk email to all our friends and I did some online banking and checked up on the Australian stock market. What a change from travelling a few years ago!

Our budget hotel, Hotel del Parque, is across the street from the entrance to a mini-National Park encompassing the headwaters of Rio Cupatitzio located in a rocky canyon full of tropical vegetation. Springs of cold water gush out from under an ancient lava beds and flow into a trout farm.

The fish out pond is 3 metres deep with crystal-clear water full of rainbow trout up to 4 lb size. You pay so much for fish caught (10 pesos per hour and 35 pesos per kilo for the fish). Only three anglers are allowed to fish at one time and you have to wear a lifejacket in case you fall in. The fish ignored my streamer flies but a nymph produced instant success. I quickly caught two fish of 1 lb size and called it a day. The big fish were too well fed to be interested. We cooked our trout over a camp stove in our hotel room.

Our new friend Gasper arrived next morning as arranged. We drove off through pine-forested volcanic hills and intensely cultivated valleys. Countless avocado plantations extend far up the slopes. Uruapan is the largest avocado producing region in the world and it is experienced an export boom.

The farm homestead was a humble single-storey rambling building by the roadside. There we met Gasper's wife Maria Teresa and sons and dog Oso. Immediately we had drinks at the kitchen table. By now we were accustom to Mexico's national drink of tequila with ice and a squeeze of lime juice. The family was keen to learn about our homeland. An antique school atlas was produced. We felt like visitors from another planet as we explained the geography of Australia.

Gasper was keen to show off his ranch and suggested a stroll through the plantation. We donned sombreros to fend off the harsh sun. I noticed Gasper slip a revolver into his hip-pocket. Were there bandits or pumas about? I wondered.

He explained that the ranch had 2500 avocado trees and harvesting continues year-round. When picked unripe and packaged properly, avocados will stay fresh for up to a year. This allows them to be exported all over the world, mainly to Europe, the USA and Europe. The Calavo packing house in Uruapan has a capacity of 100 million pounds of fruit annually.

Late afternoon we bounced home with friends and relatives in the back of Gasper's pickup, stopping off at San Juan Nuevo for a roast pork take-away – _carnitas_. The cheery Indian street vendor plucked the portion of pork of our choice off the coals with her bare hands and slapped it on a tortilla.

The original San Juan village was buried by a lava flow from Volcan Paricutin, famous for erupting in a farmer's cornfield in 1943. Subsequent lava flows buried two Indian villages, but with no lives lost. All that remains of San Juan are the steeples of the cathedral which poke grotesquely above the scraggy black lava rock.

Next day we bussed out to the Indian village of Angahuan located close to Paricutin where the lava flow ended. It is a 45 minute hike to the buried cathedral. I felt a little guilty not going by horseback thus depriving the local Indians of their tourist dollar, but they had plenty of customers without us. The lava had burst through the side of the building and filled the interior. The altar is intact and flowers are arranged there every day. We scrambled underground with a flashlight down dank passages to the vaults. This is the first time I have examined a fossilized church.

Were we explorers from another planet? No, just Australians enjoying the wonders of Mexico. &&&

Some info on Uruapan

Uruapan city is located in the Western Central Highlands of Mexico, altitude 1620 metres, population 315,000, and is the second largest city in Michoacan State. This scenic volcanic region has extensive ranches producing avocados, macadamia nuts and beef cattle. There is easy access by bus from Mexico City (430 kms West, 6 hours) or from Guadalajara (305 kms SE, 5 hours). Click  here for Uruapan tourist attractions.

### Monarchs of the Mountain

A visit to the Monarch butterfly sanctuary in the mountains from Morelia, Mexico.

Does the idea of climbing to 3500 metres altitude to visit a butterfly sanctuary seem bizarre? To me it did. My previous butterfly experience was limited to the back garden when declaring war on the Cabbage White. Also I can recall the infrequent visit of a Red Admiral and the stately Monarch. The realm of butterflies is surely at sea level, more-or-less, and confined to the odd flutter around the flower and vegetable garden or hedgerows in the countryside.

To travel is to learn, so they say, and knowledge of butterflies is no exception! Last summer I rested up awhile at Morelia, the capital of Michoacan State in central Mexico. This is a beautiful region of lakes and volcanoes sprinkled with fascinating colonial-style villages and adjacent farms. The northern part of the state is mountainous and the pine-forested cordillera reaches to 3500 metres altitude .. not rocky and snow clad for here we are at latitude 20 degrees north of the equator.

What to do? In Morelia there is no shortage of wonderful museums, art galleries and cathedrals to keep you busy for days. Impressive certainly, but I longed to do something different and see something unique! I examined the Tourist Office list of tours. Number one was a day tour to Los Santuarios de la Mariposa Monarca y Angangueo costing 480 pesos (ca.US$45) including transport, guide and lunch, available from November to March. Fascinating! This I must see.

Next morning I was picked up by car at my hotel by Mavino, an English speaking guide, with two American tourists, and we headed off for an adventure! This central part of the state is a broad altiplano at about 2000 metres altitude, composed of tussocky plains with many shallow lakes, but here and there the relief is broken by a cindery volcanic cone. After a couple of hours of fast driving on the super carretera we entered the mountains and climbed along winding roads to the old mining town of Angangueo, at an altitude 3000 metres, which until 1950 was a centre of gold, silver and lead mining. Now it is the starting off point to visit the butterfly sanctuaries.

The monarch butterflies migrate from North America travelling over 4000 kms south to find a haven in the mountains of Mexico. They arrive at the sanctuaries by the millions at the end of October and leave in the middle of April. Up until 1975 it was thought that the monarch butterfly spent the northern winter in tropical climes but now their secret hideaways have been discovered and are preserved in sanctuaries. Some hideaways are only 100 metres across found sheltered among the pine forests along the crest of the Sierra Madre of Michoacan State, Mexico.

The butterflies hibernate for the winter, occasionally braving snows and zero temperatures (no doubt less severe than in Canada and the Great Lakes Region). During the warm spring weather of March they come out of hibernation as sexually mature butterflies and commence to mate. After mating the males drop dead from exhaustion and the pregnant females fly north to the USA and Canada where they lay eggs on the milkweed plant, then die themselves. Soon the eggs hatch into caterpillars, these being gaudy black and yellow stripped critters, which proceed to devour the milkweed (or swan plant). After a few weeks of gorging themselves they build a chrysalis where they transform themselves into a beautiful butterfly, emerging in late May as a new generation of monarchs!

An advantage of being a male monarch is that you have only one 4000 km journey to make! Also I sympathize with the North American monarch butterfly. I have experienced 3 years of Buffalo winters and was glad to migrate to sunny Australia. The Australian monarchs don't have to go through all this migratory rigmarole.

Only a few sanctuaries are open to tourists. We went to the Sierra Chincua sanctuary and drove to road's end in a forest clearing on the hillside where there were several dozen primitive wood plank huts. One served as a ticket office selling entrance tickets and offering horses for hire at $10 a go. Our guide advised us wisely to take a horse explaining that there was still 5 kms of rough trail to negotiate. I happily paid up.

Each horse was lead by its energetic Indian owner at fast walking pace up the steep hill and along the top of the ridge. We hung on for dear life to the protruding wooden knob on front of the saddle. Eventually we reached another forest clearing which was the end of the horse trail. So far we had not seen one butterfly and I was beginning to think this to be a "wild goose chase".

While strolling another kilometre along the ridge top we encountered many other tourist groups coming and going and started to see the odd monarch butterfly fluttering through the trees.

Our guide indicated a steep path to take off the ridge and immediately we entered a fairyland of monarch butterflies. The air was thick with orange butterflies and the pine tree branches were so loaded with monarchs that you could hardly see the foliage. I sat on a log and watched in amazement. How friendly they were! They came to say hola and settled on your hat and on your outstretched arm. A notice nailed to a tree informed us " _Silencio por favor_! explaining in Spanish that butterflies can't hear but are very sensitive to vibrations of sound. In other words, don't talk!

We sat in silence in the filtered sunshine of the sweet smelling pine forest watching and revelling in the privilege of seeing their secret mating ground so isolated from the rest of the world. Through gaps in the trees we could look out onto more mountains and the distant plains. How clever these monarch butterflies are! Another notice informed us that the name "monarch" refers to the golden crown seen on the green chrysalis. But to me its superb colouring of bright orange with contrasting black trim and white spots makes it the monarch of all butterflies.

After half an hour at the sanctuary we hiked back to our horses and then proceeded on horseback downhill to the park entrance without incident, except for acquiring a sore bottom. Our guide took us to visit a local family living in a log cabin where we had a tasty Indian-style late lunch. It took us 3 hours driving to return to Morelia by dusk. What a memorable day we all had! &&&

Tequila and Margaritas

Tourists consider Mexico to be the land of tequila and margaritas. How did this come about? Slowly. The pulque beer made from Agave sap was not amenable to the distillation process since it gave horrible results. An entirely new process had to be developed for hard liquor. Utilized is the base of the Agave plant trimmed of leaves, called the _pina_ ' since it resembled a pineapple, but weighs 50 kilos or more. Moreover, a special Agave is used, Agave tequilana, or "Weber Blue" which is farmed on a large scale in the region around Guadalajara, and the town of Tequila. The top quality tequila is 100% Agave made with no added sugar and bottled in Mexico. It is best sampled straight like a good whiskey, without lime juice and salt. The name "tequila" is allowed only for liquor made with 51% or more agave sugars. These cheaper tequilas are known as _"mixtos"_. This is what the bartender puts in your margarita unless you ask for the best.

**Guadalajara** is the capital of Jalisco State and is the second largest city in Mexico, being 535 kms WNW of Mexico City. It is the home mariachi music and of tequila.

The production of tequila is a great tourist attraction for Guadalajara. Daily train and bus tours are made to the town of Tequila, some 54 kms distant, for tourists to see the agave plantations and tour one of several distilleries in operation. Also attractive is lunch with mariachi music and free samples of tequila.

The distilleries have a huge pile of pinas outside waiting to chopped up and heated in a steam autoclave that may take 20 tonnes at a time. The starch is converted into sugars which are fermented to an alcoholic liquor suitable for distillation. Modern copper pot stills are used similar to that used to make fine whiskies. Double and sometimes triple distillation is done to get perfection in flavour.

Recipe for the classic Margarita

Use 100% agave tequila, or blanco.

3 parts tequila

1 part freshly squeezed lime juice

1 part orange liqueur (Cointreau or Curacao)

Dash of agave syrup or other syrup

Slice of lime for garnish

Shake the ingredients over ice and serve in a cocktail glass with slice of lime  
.

If you are in a hurry you can use a non-alcoholic Margarita Mix (lime juice and syrup) and combine it with tequila in the ratio 3 to1, and add ice, all in half a minute.

Acapulco and Pacific Beaches

A friendly belch of smoke shoots forth from the fort signalling the arrival of several Spanish trading galleons sailing into safety of Acapulco Port. Is this how it would have been in the year of 1650? I contemplate the scene while standing on the stone parapet of San Diego Fort admiring the huge cannons now aiming across the bay with luxury hotels in their sights.

The Manila – Acapulco trade route flourished in the 17th century. Cargoes of spices, pearls, gemstones and silks were brought from the Orient. They were off-loaded and transported by wagon along a rough road to Mexico City, the "Camino de Asia". Some part of the cargo continued its tedious way journey along the "Camino de Europa" to Vera Cruz port and across the Atlantic Ocean to Spain.

Wonderful Acapulco Bay was discovered by Spanish sailors in 1510. A port and ship building facilities were developed to enable trade with the Orient. By 1523 it was linked by road to Mexico City, the capital of "New Spain". San Diego Fort, a massive 5-sided affair overlooking the bay, was constructed in 1616 to provide the port with protection from marauding pirate vessels.

Today, Acapulco thrives on tourism. The Pacific coast of Mexico is dotted with luxury beach resorts that have sprung up like mushrooms to cater for North Americans and Europeans in holiday mode. Package tours bring hoards of visitors to enjoy a relaxed lifestyle of sun, surf and margaritas. Like a pirate ship, our day- cruiser turns about and heads closer to shore. Jostling in the bow we modern-day pirates scan the white sands and coconut palms for signs of life, of hostile Indians or shipwrecked mariners.

The natural excitement and life-threatening hazards of a bygone era are today replaced by man's creativeness, both in thrill seeking and creature comforts. I admire the skill of the wind surfers with their orange sails, and the paragliders, red and white striped, towed behind speedboats, until they flop safely down to roost on the sands. Men and women alike crave for adventure and romance. There is little of it about nowadays in its natural form and so big business, seeing these needs, creates it for us. Very pleasant it is too, except in the extreme of being subjected to the torture of a horrific Arnold Schwarzenegger video on a long distance bus, a fate worse than being strung to the mainmast and given forty lashes!

The stress and competiveness of modern city living creates a need for periodic instant relaxation, otherwise we snuff it at an early age. What could be better to relieve tensions than a holiday at the Hyatt Regency Acapulco and the like? Film stars, corporation presidents, salesmen, school teachers, stockbrokers, computer programmers – you name it – they flock here in droves, indistinguishable in their bathers, lolling in deck chairs, flicking their fingers at Mexican waiters balancing trays of ice-cold drinks and tacos. The prime topic of conservation seems to be the precarious nature of NASDAQ, or the worthiness of certain stock options or future contracts, until – "Did you see that blonde sunbathing topless?" So what's new? Pirates dreamed of treasure-laden galleons and bare-breasted Indian women.

The unreliable and doubtful pleasure of swimming in salty water is now supplanted by the alternative of a Disneyland of artificial hotel pools of azure fresh water surrounded by palm trees with fountains, waterfalls, slides and swim-up bars laced with canned music. The ocean is now obsolete!

An Acapulcan-type beach resort could be built with same effect on the plains of Nebraska if you imported a few Mexican waiters. The seaside resorts of Acapulco, Ixtapa and Cancun in the Yucatan may take their place as contemporary "Wonders of the World", exceeding the past glory of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Seriously, they fulfil a need. They are very successful and lots of fun. They represent the excesses of the American good-life transplanted to an idyllic part of Mexico.

However, there is another exciting and optional way of enjoying the full spectrum of what Mexican beach resorts have to offer. Firstly, Mexican beaches are public property, or at least the tidal part. Anyone can walk along the beach and swim in the ocean, even budget travellers! You don't have to stay in a luxury hotel to do this. In reality, you may find many kilometres of beach front occupied by huge hotels with no public access between them to the beach. Not a problem!

You need a disguise! In bathers, dark glasses and towel, confidently sweep past the doorman and security guards, head through the hotel and gardens to the beach. Later you can check out the swimming pool, all bars and open-air restaurants and loll in their deck chairs. But you must know the system. Hotel guests are identifiable by a colored wrist band. No, they don't get free booze and snacks. It all goes on their account so for them no money is required. You will have to pay, of course, even a few dollars to sit in a deck chair and watch the surf, but it's all worth it to enjoy being pampered.

Going north on the Pacific Coast is Ixtapa, a luxury resort full of glitz and gringos. Prior to 1970 it was a banana plantation. It is a mini-replica of Cancun with only 3 kms of fancy hotels instead of 20. It is worth a day's visit for an ocean swim and to admire the flocks of pelicans diving for fish in the surf, but it is better to stay in nearby Zihuatanejo which is much more interesting.

It is a tourist and fishing village set on a beautiful sheltered harbour. There are plenty of budget hotels used by Mexicans and foreigners. Ixtapa is only 15 minutes away by local bus. A boat trip across the harbor to the secluded beach of Las Gatas allows you access to calm, crystal clear waters, great for snorkelling, and to dozens of beachfront bars and restaurants run by friendly locals.

Further north still is Puerto Vallarta, a real gem, and usually accessed from Guadalajara. This famous resort has grown uniquely – an old fishing village has expanded to cope with tourism but has not yet been overwhelmed by new hotel development. Cobblestone streets and old adobe buildings extend down to the beach front and mix it with modern hotels of modest size. I paddle along the shallows as the sun sets. Tourists sit at candlelit tables on the beach. Waiters stumble in loose sand to bring dinners from the adjacent hotels. Others crowd the open-air bars and children splash around in the cool night waters. It seems that Puerto Vallarta has the best of both worlds – the old and the new, a happy paradise for Mexicans and tourists alike. &&&

### Mexico City Again

I had kind thoughts of Mexico City as my JAL jumbo touched down at "el DF" (districto federal) airport. After 5 years absence, I reckoned there must be lots of new things to do and unfamiliar places to explore. For now I had 3 months ahead to roam Mexico and Guatemala with no fixed itinerary. I will just go with the flow anywhere.

My first pleasant surprise was the development of a network of youth hostels with backpacker accommodation throughout most of Mexico. This has come about over the last 5 years by the efforts of the Mexican Youth Hostels Association (AMAJ) in order to promote youth tourism in Mexico. Impressive is their National Plan for the period 2001 to 2007 which sets out objectives and standards for member hostels located in key tourist areas. Now there are dozens of new hostels located in central and southern Mexico, from Zacatecas to Chiapas and the Yucatan, plus there are other independent hostels.

Before leaving home it is worth while to become a member of the Youth Hostel Association (senior members welcome) because card-carrying members can get 10% discount on accommodation at member hostels (HI, or Hostelling International – look for the triangle logo). Cost for a bed in a dorm is about US$12 per night, usually including a light breakfast. Outside the capital, particularly down south, accommodations can be found for US$7 or even less.

Hostel development is still in its infancy in Mexico compared to Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. For example, Mexico City (population 20+ million) now has half-a-dozen major hostels, whereas Adelaide city, South Australia, where I live, has 23 hostels in the central business district alone. The initial question on arrival anywhere is which one to try out, if there is a choice.

You can do your homework before leaving town by using the Internet as all the hostels are listed there, somewhere. The facility of online booking is useful for your first arrival in Mexico City but after that, don't bother as I have rarely found a hostel full up (except some at Xmas and New Year's, or if you want a private room). If all the beds are taken they may let you sleep in the lounge room or camp out on the roof!

You'll find Mexicans are friendly, flexible people and great lateral thinkers. Where else can you find Ciber-lavanderias (laundromats) or Ciber-barberias? (barber's shop)...we just have Internet cafes. "El centro historico" is the place to stay for first time visitors to Mexico City. Fortunately, there are two excellent hostels located within a stone's throw of the zócalo, or the huge central plaza. I have stayed at both and each has its advantages and disadvantages. There is a healthy ongoing competition by management to entice tourists.

**Where To Go**  
I booked over the Net to stay initially at Hostel Moneda on Calle Moneda, one block from the Zócalo. Why? I knew where it was and I was arriving after dark from the airport. A good choice as I found out. It used to be the Hotel Moneda, a 5 story building, now converted to a backpackers (markets change). Similarly the nearby Hostel Catedral and Hostel Mansion Havre in the Zona Rosa were once hotels and now offer from 85 to 200 beds to travellers. Alternatively, on a smaller scale with 10 to 50 beds, you will find many interesting colonial-style houses and mansions converted to backpackers.

Coming from Adelaide's pristine and spacious city streets, my next morning venture onto Calle Moneda, with its chaotic street stalls attended by noisy vendors, all seemed somewhat confusing and grotty by comparison. However the cultural shock lasted only about 5 minutes and then I began to enjoy myself.

The local authorities have banned vendors from the Zócalo and now they are concentrated in the nearby streets, with certain restrictions. Often they cover up their wares with a blanket on approach of officers of the law, but it all seems to be a friendly game and I have yet to see anyone arrested.

Returning to Hostel Moneda after my first glimpse of the New World, I decided to check over the hostel's credentials. Just what makes it tick? I was impressed by the computer room by the office where 6 computers are available for Internet communication 24 hours a day free of charge to guests. Security is very good and I doubt whether any dodgy bods or terrorists would get in. The flat roof top is where you get an excellent buffet-style free breakfast consisting of cereal, fruit, pancakes, bread roll, boiled eggs and coffee. In the evening the roof top is a bar and restaurant where guests can mingle and enjoy themselves.

I noted a kitchen where you can cook up a meal and another high-up balcony overlooking Calle Moneda with hammocks where in the evenings always seemed to be full of Australians drinking beer.

Morning new guests at the hostel are asked whether they want to join a free guided tour of either the local city cultural sights or the famous National Museum of Anthropology. This is a great attraction for first time visitors to the city. I did both, each with a group of 20 or more backpackers. The guide takes you on the metro (initially a daunting experience) to Chalpultepec where you spend most of the day at the museum (my third visit) and then brings you back home by bus.

Next day I did the city tour which included a visit to the Secretaria de Education Publica housed in a nearby beautiful colonial-style building containing 120 magnificent murals done by Diego Rivera and his assistants in the 1920′s.  
What more can you ask for from a backpackers?

Later on I decided to check out the neighboring Hostel Catedral to see what attractions were offering there. This hostel is located in a choice spot behind the cathedral on Calle Tacuba. It has an impressive entranceway and is more modern than Hostel Moneda but accommodation costs are similar. If you are travelling with a girl friend then maybe this is the place for you to go.

When you book in, you are given a magnetic security card which opens your room door and the entrance door in the lobby. Also you get vouchers for a free breakfast each day, which is provided in the ground floor restaurant and bar facing the street and open to the public. There are about a dozen computers available on a mezzanine floor which cost 20 pesos per hour or 10 pesos between 11 am and 3 pm (ca US 90 cents). There is an excellent modern kitchen on the fifth floor which opens to an extensive balcony where you can hang out and have lunch or admire the view of the zócalo. Next door is a washing machine and an area where you can hang clothes out to dry in the sun. Very convenient in the lobby is a secure storage room where you can deposit excess gear and leave it there for weeks free of charge while you take off somewhere and eventually return to stay.

The crowning glory of the Hostel Catedral is its open roof top bar and lounge area which has a fantastic view of the city by night. It is open in the evenings and has elevated gas heaters in the winter to warm the customers. The only drawback is the high price of a beer which dampens one's enthusiasm somewhat.

**What to do**  
Already you are in the middle of _el centro historico_ which will take many days exploring on foot. The area is very safe for tourists to roam around as there are policemen on every corner making sure of this, and directing traffic. To go further afield take the metro. Mexico City's metro system is probably the best in the world, with 9 lines covering the whole city area. You can go anywhere for two pesos.  
The "must do" visits on foot would include the Metropolitan Cathedral, Templo Mayor and the National Palace, all located around or close to the Zócalo. Further away towards the Alemada is the Palace of Fine Arts and many museums.

The Museum of Torture I found rather frightening. The National Museum of Anthropology at Chapultepec covers the history of human development in Mexico and is best seen before you take off for a day's visit to see the pyramids at Teotihuacan. Your hostel staff can arrange a cut-price tour and other day tours, such as to Taxco, the silver city. Then on Sundays at the Plaza Mexico (metro San Antonio) there is usually a bull fight.

Shops in the city are arranged in clusters selling similar commodities. Adjacent to the Zócalo are maybe 50 jewelry shops selling gold and silver items. Next could be electronic goods or wedding dresses etc. My favorite street is Donceles which has many enormous secondhand book shops where I know, by diligent hunting, I can find paperback novels (Agatha Christie) in English to read on the bus.

If you are interested in dining out at fine restaurants and clubbing, then consider staying at a hostel in the modern Zona Rosa (metro Insurgentes). The Hostel Mansion Havre on Calle Londres, and the small hostel Home will look after you.

**Homeward Bound**  
With only a few days left in Mexico City one's attention is directed to buying (more) souvenirs and handicrafts. For cheap knickknacks you can browse the stalls adjacent to the Cathedral in the Zócalo, but to buy top quality handicrafts there are special craft markets, of which three are particularly worth visiting. Take the metro to Insurgentes in the Zona Rosa and check out the Mercado Insurgentes for silver jewelry and textiles (pricey, with very pushy shop owners). By far the best market is the Centro de Artesanias La Ciudadela (metro Balderas) which has a huge range of Mexican handicrafts at reasonable prices. Things like tablecloths, place mats, wall hangings, scarves, ponchos, silver jewelry and small pottery items don't take up much space if you are flying out. Four blocks nearer the Zócalo is the Mercado de Artesanias San Juan which has similar materials but not so well presented. My prediction is that after a successful week or more exploring Mexico City, the world's largest metropolis, you will as I did, grow to like it and come back time and again to enjoy what it has to offer. &&&

Heading south-east of Mexico City by bus the first major city encountered is **Puebla** (population 1.5 million, elevation 2162 meters) which is worth a stay for a few days. It has well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture and is famous for its colourful ceramics called Talavera ware. Jewelry, indigenous textiles, and craft goods abound. Many tourists go crazy buying stuff and have the problem of how to carry it with them. Bulky pottery is heavy and may be best left to buy similar stuff in Mexico City before you fly home.

While travelling to Puebla take a look at the horizon and admire the snow-capped huge volcanoes of Popocatepetl 5452 meters, recently erupted, and only 78 kms SE from Mexico City, and next door by 20 kms is Iztaccihuatl at 5286 meters. These mountains make up a large National Park that provides winter sports for Mexicans and tourists.

Puebla is a stop over where you have to make decisions, and not only about what mementos to buy. You must decide whether to continue south in the mountains to the city of **Oaxaca** famous for its crafty goods, or branch off eastwards to the coast for the port of **Veracruz** used by the Spanish to transport treasure back to Spain ages ago. Before deciding what to do, I took an excursion to Cholula some 10 kms west to explore a large pyramid.

### Grand Pyramid of Cholula

The beautiful Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios (Church of our Lady of the Remedies) is located on top of what seems to be a natural grassy hill dotted with cypress groves and thickets. This peaceful hill, only 4 miles west from modern city of Pueblo, is the Great Pyramid of Cholula.

The first temple-pyramid construction on this site is thought to have started around 200 BC and continue in stages until the 9th century AD. It was dedicated to the God Quetzalcóatl. The base measures 450 by 450 meters and the height eventually reached 66 meters. Its total volume of 4.45 cubic meters makes it larger than the Great Pyramid of Giza which has a volume of 2.5 cu meters, but is higher at 138 meters. About this time the region suffered depopulation and the pyramid was abandoned and fell into disrepair.

In the 12th century the region was settled by the Toltec-Chichimec people who recognized the pyramid as an artificial hill, using the name "Tlachihualtepetl". Religious ceremonies were conducted in new structures built around the pyramid which largely remained overgrown with scrub, as it was on the arrival of Hernán Cortés, the Conquistador, in 1519.

Cortés and his band of Spanish soldiers were en route via Cholula to the Mexican capital of Teotihuacán, ruled by Montezuma and located about 100 kms to the north west. Cholula was the second largest city in Mexico at the time, with a population estimated at 100,000. He camped on the outskirts of Cholula and was given a friendly welcome by its citizens, many of whom wanted to join his expedition. The idea of conquering the repressive and annoying regime of Montezuma appealed to them. He chose 6000 volunteers to join him.

Cortés was impressed by the local industry and intensive cultivation of the Cholula plains with irrigated crops in large fields and plantations producing maize, cactus, aloes and chili peppers. A magnificent view of the countryside was had from the Cholula hill top of the distant volcanoes of Popacatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl, showing snowy summits higher than any European mountain.

All seemed to be going well for the expedition until Cortés heard whisper from his Indian mistress and interpreter La Malinche that some of the caciques and priests of Chulola were secretly plotting to kill him and his little band of soldiers. However, the populace regarded Cortés and his soldiers as White Gods and invincible due to their superior technology of firearms, cannon, steel swords, body armor and skilled horsemanship in battle.

Cortés decided to make a pre-emptive attack on the dissidents which he lured to the central plaza of Cholula. A three hour massacre followed leaving over three thousand Indian dead bodies in the streets. The Spaniards chased the remnants fleeing up the Great Pyramid and set fire to all the timber structures. They climbed the 124 steps up the face of the pyramid amid a deluge of thrown stones and javelins, which were harmless to the armored Spaniards. When the dust settled Cortés resumed his journey towards the capital.

Under Spanish control the Pyramid of Cholula became under protection of the Cross and a summit church was built dedicated to Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. The Cholulan Indians then performed the peaceful services of the Roman Catholic communion, whereas before for centuries it had been the site for revering the mystic God Quetzalcoatl.

The early history of the Pyramid of Cholula was slow to be evaluated. It was visited by the Prussian explorer Alexander von Humboldt in 1800 who made some preliminary measurements.

It was also visited by the famous woman travel writer Madame Calderon de la Barca in 1840 who deplored the massacre that took place. The first excavations were done by a Swiss archeologist Adolf Bandelier in 1881 -1884 who mainly collected skulls from burial sites for study.

Modern excavations began in earnest from 1931 and ended in the 1950's. Tunnels were driven following the boundaries of earlier constructions. A second round of excavations was undertaken from 1966 to 1974, making over 8 kms of tunnels altogether. The base of the first pyramid was made of sun-dried adobe bricks. Various buildings, courtyards and alters were excavated, giving abundant archeological findings of ceremonial objects, murals, ceramics, tools and skeletal remains. Today some 800 meters of tunnels are open to the public. It is possible to enter the pyramid on the north side, traverse the pyramid and exit on the south side.

The Great Pyramid of Cholula, so close to Puebla, has a history extending over 2000 years. It is one of the largest structures in the world by volume. Cholula was the Holy City of Anahuac, a site like Mecca and Jerusalem is today. Over the centuries many different groups of Indians controlled the region and added on more buildings and constructed alters for religious ceremonies including human sacrifices. Priests beheaded children and sent them into the next world to appease the Rain God in times of drought.

The finality of this great pyramid is now a pleasant brush covered hill having on its summit the wonderful church, Our Lady of the Remedies, where Catholics and others of different faith can worship in harmony. &&&

Interesting Book References:

" **History of the Conquest of Mexico"** by William H. Prescott, first published 1843, The Modern Library, NY, reprint 1979.

" **Alexander von Humboldt Researches Vol.1** , London 1814; (Chapters: The Pyramid of Cholula; Detached Masses of the Pyramid of Cholula). Modern Reprint.

" **Life in Mexico"** (travel letters of a diplomat's wife during 1840 - 42) by Madame Calderon de la Barca; first published by Prescott in 1843, reprint in 1987 by Century Hutchison Ltd, London.

Mezcal – a different sort of tequila

**Oaxaca City** is a fabulous place to stay awhile and learn about things that seem weird, like eating grasshoppers. Drinking hot local chocolate is wonderful. Also, the tequila is different and more to my tasting. The local brew is called _mezcal_ , for which Oaxaca is famous.

In the Oaxaca region things (like regulations) are more flexible with regard to distillation to make hard liquor from the Agave plant. Several local species of Agave are used and operations are usually small scale using wild plants rather than from plantations. Mezcal tends to be a village craft industry using simple equipment. An important difference from the industrial scale tequila plant is the _pinas_ , instead of being autoclaved, are roasted in a shallow pit, thus acquiring a smoky flavour, like a barbecue meal. Leaching with water provides a fermentable product and is later subject to distillation, which provides a whiskey-like product. Double and triple distillation may be used to get a smooth perfect drink.

Mezcal and tequila may be aged in oak barrels. Those not aged are labelled silver (blanco or plata).

Aged for at least two months in oak barrels are "Reposado".

Extra Aged , having at least one year in oak barrels are "Anejo"

Ultra Aged (Extra Anejo) have had at least three years in oak barrels.

The good stuff is best sipped alone, or with ice, without any lime or salt.

The tourist information office is a great source of day tours to local villages where you may see a mezcal plant in operation, or at least restored, and so buy a bottle on the spot.

### Oaxaca Interlude

Oaxaca is a well preserved Spanish colonial city, originally an important religious center (Dominican). Now it is a favorite with tourists for handicrafts, festivals, cafés/restaurants and for having a relaxing atmosphere. From here you can explore the ancient cities of Monte Albán and Yagul and the craft markets of many Indian villages located along the Valles Centrales.

Oaxaca is located 442 kms SE of Mexico City by bus (overnight, 6 hours from Terminal Oriente) or by plane (1 hour). It was Christmas Eve. Chrissy, my travel companion and I headed for the Zocalo, or central plaza of the town to watch the celebrations.

By 10 pm we were engulfed in a sea of happy families filling all available space behind the roped off streets of the procession route. Each church (and there seems to be one every few city blocks) had its elaborate nativity float beautifully decorated, crowded with gorgeous ladies and school children dressed up in their finery, as angels (or fairies?) waving a wand at the spectators. Infant Jesus was the centrepiece resting in a fancy cradle.

Between each float was a brass band or some sort of orchestral group, somewhat disreputable and incongruous in their working clothes, enthusiastically whooping it up as loudly as possible! How many times they circled the Zócalo I lost count. Sky rockets roared off and exploded in the heavens in a spectacular shower of coloured sparks and Catherine wheels whizzed unexpectantly close by. Interspersed were acrobatic teams, paraplegics in wheel chairs, sports teams, and 3 meter tall clowns who swayed around like drunken giants and bobbed up and down to the beat of the music.

Crash, bang, tinkle, tinkle. Next to the Cathedral we watched amazed at people throwing plates, pottery, even furniture over their shoulder onto a growing pile of rubble! Investigation revealed that this was the traditional "Breaking of Plates" ceremony. It marks the end of the current year's worries and the dawn of a happy and prosperous New Year.

Never before have I experienced such fantastic celebrations. I exhausted my battery and we decided to totter off home. Then we noticed everybody was heading for the nearest church so we did too!

I am not normally a church goer. Weddings and funerals are my limit. For the Latinos, their whole lives revolve around the Catholic church. I reflect that I have visited (and photographed) more churches in Latin America than within a lifetime elsewhere.

The church was packed with families for the Christmas Eve service. About 11.45 pm everyone queued up to go forward and receive a blessing from the priest. Children carried a doll dressed in swaddling clothes, depicting the infant Jesus (taken from their nativity scene at home) to be blessed also. We followed too. No one seemed to mind tourists joining in.

By midnight it was all over. We wandered along cobblestone streets to the Plazuela Labastida and our lodging at Posada Margarita with the occasional skyrocket lighting up the darkness.

**Around Oaxaca  
** Posada Margarita is a family-run guest house, double storied, colonial style with a central courtyard hidden away behind archways that enclose craft shops and an Internet cafe. There is a sunny rooftop area where you can write your journal whilst sipping rum and coke.

Adjacent is the Plazuela with many interesting stalls, selling oil paintings, silver jewelry and woven goods. A grotesque attraction is two wooden skeletons sitting in armchairs (leftovers from the Fiesta of the Dead). They produce a steady cash flow from tourists wanting to be photographed with them. El Topil restaurant here is great for home cooking, garlic soup being a specialty.

**Oaxaca Specialties  
** A curious thing about Oaxaca is the frequent pealing of church bells, followed by a slow bong, bong, bong, all with no apparent relation to the time of day. We decided there must be a secret communication between churches, or else the bell ringers had got stuck into the mezcal!

Yes, we tried and loved mezcal, the Oaxacan version of tequila, but drew the line at bottles having a worm in the bottom. I'm sure this is just a tourist stunt. Usually 40 proof, mezcal with a dash of lime juice, has a smoky flavor and to me is more pleasant than the stronger tequila which is best camouflaged in margaritas!

The central food market (Mercado Juaréz) is a fascinating place to explore. We found Indian ladies with piles of dried grasshoppers, whole bodies or cheaper for just the legs. Chrissy bought a sample to test out as an hors d'oeuvre. More to my liking was Oaxacan chocolate and chocolate drink. Special factory shops in town grind the cacao beans and produce different varieties of chocolate on the spot in view of the customers.

**Santo Domingo  
** One of the most beautiful cathedrals in Mexico is Santo Domingo, a masterpiece of the Dominican Order which is adjacent to their old monastery that now houses the Regional Museum and Library. It is located just behind Posada Margarita. Although the Dominican monks had strict vows of poverty, chastity and obedience (and so had some rapport with the local Indians) they sure made up for it by having a stunning gateway to Heaven! The numerous capillas are magnificent and the ceiling decor is unbelievable! I could die happy there!

The adjacent Regional Museum is top class and housed within the massive stone walls of the old monastery. The archeological history of the region from 500 BC to colonial times is expertly displayed and explained in detail.

Monte Albán was the Zapotec Indian capital from 500 BC to about 750 AD and is located on a hill top a few kilometres west of Oaxaca. When we visited it certain buildings were roped off because a few months earlier a major earthquake had caused damage and there was a risk to tourists. Assuming a major earthquake every decade, it is not surprising that these wonderful Zapotec and Mextec Indian cities are now in a somewhat ruinous state.

The library consisted of endless rooms of floor to ceiling bookshelves of ancient tomes, some exceedingly large, written in Latin and early Spanish. I could visualize monks peering over these by candlelight getting a thrill now and then, perhaps. Then I focused on a display cabinet with the first edition of "De Re Metallica" written by Georgius Agricola in 1556, a treatise on mining and metallurgy as then conducted in Central Europe. Wow! Here was a book that revolutionised the New World and its application created untold wealth for the Spanish colonists. Spanish galleons came to Mexico (New Spain) with people, books, arms and machinery (transfer of technology) and returned with silver, gold, spices, dyes and new plants.

We found all the Mexican churches fascinating and awe inspiring. Of particular interest was the Iglesia de Tlacochahuaya, near Yagul. Beautifully decorated and built by Indians in the 16th century, it houses "Christ on the Cross" made of sugar cane and sheaths of wheat, but the Indians also display wooden images of their Sun and Moon Gods, an interesting compromise of religious beliefs in one church.

Oaxaca, like many Mexican cities, is a place that you can happily return to many times. I look forward to my next visit! &&&

**Oaxaca** is another road junction where you have to decide where to go: either north, south, east or west. You can go back to Mexico City, or to other places, like off to see more Pacific beaches along the Oaxaca Coast, or north to the Gulf of Mexico, or east to Chiapas State and San Cristobal de Las Casas. This is why you need many months to explore Mexico.

**San Cristobal** is a beautiful colonial town isolated in the mountains at 2100 meters altitude. Dominican monks reached here in 1545 and the town is named after one of them. It is a favourite inexpensive place for backpackers and hippies. Handicrafts, amber and jade are produced for the tourist. It is a great place to buy handmade woven goods, clothing, rugs, wall hangings and dolls, like in Oaxaca. Local villages are an attraction for the tourist. To experience the voodoo-like rituals of the Indians visit the church of San Juan at nearby San Juan Chamula. The faithful happily mix sorcery and religion in air that is thick with smoke from hundreds of candles that stand on a frond covered floor. One day this church will go up in flames!

Important also is that San Cristobal is a road junction presenting another decision for the traveller. Either you go SE on the main road to Guatemala, or NE along a fantastic drive to visit the ruined city of Palenque and thence on to the Yucatan Peninsula with all its wonderful Mayan ancient cities and the cities of Villahermosa, Campeche, Merida and the Cancun beaches on the Caribbean Sea.

### Yucatan Mysteries

The Yucatan Peninsula is the heel of Mexico. It juts out into the Gulf of Mexico reaching towards Cuba and Florida, forming a distinctive region of culture and cuisine. Here you find the finest Spanish colonial cities of Merida and Valladolid, the glitzy American megahotel beach resort of Cancun and the most impressive of the ancient Maya cities of Uxmal and Chitchen Itza.

The region is a tourist agent's dream. Organized tours abound but the infrastructure and security is sufficiently good to enable you to enjoy DIY excursions at your level and within budget.

Merida is the capital of the Yucatan. It is a sprawling city of 600,000 people with no metro system. The narrow streets are racetracks for rattly diesel buses that belch black fumes while bringing workers to the CBD. Even so, its beauty is not overwhelmed. The tourist need not venture far from the Plaza Major to enjoy the colonial splendour.

Originally this was the Maya city of Tiho until captured by the Spanish conquistadors. Maya temples were destroyed and the stone used to construct the new capital of Merida in the image of its Spanish counterpart.

The Plaza de Armas (now Plaza Major) is surrounded by impressive buildings. The Palacio Municipal with its clock tower dates back to 1542. The huge cathedral that dominates the eastside was begun in 1561, and the Palacio de Gobierno on the north side now houses the state government executive offices.

Next to the cathedral is a cab station -- not for taxis but genuine horse-drawn vehicles. The clip-clop of horses seems rather incongruous amid the bustling day traffic but in the evenings they take over. The tourists in the nearby Gran and Caribe hotels love to venture forth to their favourite restaurant by horse-drawn carriage and return the same way -- that is when they are not whooping it up at the _al fresco_ in the leafy retreat of Parque Hidalgo adjoining these hotels.

How best to see the Maya ruins of Uxmal and Chichen Itza?

I did the Punic Route bus trip of the Uzmal region which was a bargain for the day, but it is self-guided so bring your guide book. Next, I took a one-way organised from Merida to Chichen Itza where we had lunch and viewed the ruins with a guide. We carried on to Cancun to be dropped off at the hotel of our choice, thus killing two birds with one stone.

Uxmal was an important city from AD 600 until AD 900 when the site was abandoned and soon covered by jungle. It was rediscovered in the 19th century but excavation and restoration began in the 1930s. Dominating the entrance to the site is the Pyramid of the Magician, height 39 metres and oval shaped with two opposing stone stairways leading to the summit temple. The long-nosed rain god Chac drapes over the temple doorway.

Maya pyramids are a great challenge to climb. Each year a few tourists go for a tumble. This one has a heavy chain to grasp. Small boys take great delight in running straight down the steps while parents cling thankfully to the chain. The summit ledge is dauntingly narrow.

The clear sky, scorching sun and sweaty body compels me to sit down and regain composure. Magnificent stone edifices and courtyards radiate out in all directions until distant jungle dominates the landscape. Closest is the huge Nunnery Quadrangle with a temple on each corner and 74 surrounding rooms; Chac masks and feathered serpents adorn the facades of the temples. Maybe this is where the sacrificial victims assembled prior to climbing to the top of the pyramid to have their still beating hearts carved out by a high priest using an obsidian knife. The summit temple played an important part in worship of the Gods -- the Sun, the Moon and Chac, the rain God, all required a steady supply of sacrificial victims.

The most impressive of the ancient Mayan sites is Chichen Itza, which was the regional capital in the period AD 750 - 1200. Now-a-days it swarms with groups of tourists and their guides, all challenged by the awe-inspiring ritual of climbing El Castillo, the magnificent 25 metre high stepped pyramid with a temple on top. (climbing now forbidden) This one was constructed by the Maya about AD 800 and later modified by the Toltec invaders with sculptures of plumed serpents and Toltec warriors.

The Principal Ball Court here is the largest in Mexico.. The Mayas played a soccer-like game with scoring by shooting the ball through stone hoops fixed mid-way on the court walls. Carvings along the walls suggest that the losing team was sacrificed and the captain's heart fed to a pet jaguar.

Close by is the Sacred Cenote, a huge natural pot-hole in the limestone., some 60 metres in diameter and 35 metres deep, with vertical walls rising from greenish water.

The guide explains that here female virgins were sacrificed to appease the gods. Recent dredging of the depths has brought up skeletons and valuable gold and jade jewellery. Limestone sinkholes and caves abound in the Yucatan and supplied the Maya with drinking water in this riverless land.

A trip to Mexico is not complete without experiencing Cancun, the megahotel beach resort that stretches 20 kms along a narrow sandy island that fronts on to the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea. The white beaches are cool underfoot, being composed of tiny shell fragments, instead of the more usual quartz grains. Surf is moderate but often rough, windy conditions prevail, confining swimmers to the ornate hotel pools complete swim-up bars, fountains and waterfalls. More sheltered and frequented beaches occur on Isla Mujeres, a popular day excursion from Cancun by ferry or speed boat.

Cancun is a fabulous resort area for all types. Backpackers head for the youth hostel at the northern end of the island. This has 600 dormitory beds and is very cheap. Budget accommodation is available on Isla Mujeres which is known as the backpackers' Cancun. The sandy strip of Cancun island is like Miami Beach, Florida. English is the dominant language spoken. The megahotels thrive on package tours from North American and Europe. These hotels offer a wide range of accommodation. Why not try it out? &&&

Yucatan's Chicxulub Impact Crater

Please don't upset the Sun God! Terrible things may happen if you do. At worst all life on Earth may be wiped out, as almost happened in the Yucatan a mere 65 million years ago. All the dinosaurs died when a large meteorite crashed down and caused much destruction worldwide.

Mexican oil exploration in the Gulf of Mexico discovered a huge hidden meteorite crater estimated at 145 to 180 kms in diameter and centred about 50 kms north of the city of Merida. The crater is not visible on the earth's surface because it is covered by later limestone formations of which the Yucatan is composed. The buried fragmented rock of the crater region has become a useful oil reservoir hence the reason for extensive drilling. Proof of it being a meteor crater is the finding of high density minerals formed only by meteorite impact.

Scientists have estimated what happened from the size of the crater. A meteorite of about 10 kms in diameter landed in a shallow sea causing a tremendous shock wave and transfer of energy amounting to 100 million megatonnes of TNT. This produced a sulphur-rich atmosphere and dust resulting in total darkness for half a year. Temperatures plunged to near zero. The initial explosion caused a worldwide tsunami having a wavefront of 50 to 100 metres. Half the species on Earth became extinct, including all the dinosaurs.

Geologists call this the K-T, or Cretaceous - Tertiary boundary at ca 65 million years ago. It is marked worldwide by a 2 to 3 cm clay deposit rich in iridium, a rare element derived from vaporization of the meteorite. Once things got back to normal, new life developed with the start of the Eocene Period and the evolution of mammals and birds. This was catastrophic climate change on a massive scale that seems to happen every few hundred million years.

### Belize

Belize itself can be a heaven on Earth. The country possesses some of the world's last tracts of native rain forest which team with orchids, parrots, toucans and exotic animals. The extensive barrier reef of coral islands is a Caribbean paradise now developed for the sun and sea loving European tourist.

Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America. Belize City, the only large metropolis, doesn't give a good first impression. It is a ramshackle, dirty, river port for yachts and speed boats that transport tourists to the outer reef islands, called Cayes.

The city is periodically flattened by hurricanes so there are no substantial buildings of note. Basically the town consists of dilapidated wooden houses with suburbs crisscrossed by open drains. This city of 80,000 people is quaint and interesting, but unsafe for the tourist to wander around.

But all is relative. After returning from some outback Guatemalan villages, Belize City seemed to me, momentarily, quite modern and hygienic. Living costs are expensive. The Belizean dollar is pegged to the US dollar at the rate of two to one. Belizean currency is worthless outside the country so is best avoided. However, Government fees imposed at border crossings have to be paid in Belize dollars which is a regulation that provides employment for the ubiquitous money changer.

Belize, formerly British Honduras, shares its borders with southern Mexico and eastern Guatemala, and faces the azure waters of the Caribbean Sea. Today it has a small tourist industry based principally on diving and snorkelling off its coral islands, and ecotourism catering mainly for North American and European nature lovers using jungle lodges in the hinterland.

Originally this region was an unwanted piece of real estate. It was avoided by the Spanish navigators because of the shallow waters and string of dangerous reefs. In the 1600's the area became a haven for British pirates. Their knowledge of the barrier reef provided them with safety from pursuit. The larger islands gave them a base from which to raid the Spanish galleons loaded with treasures leaving from Mexico and southern ports.

Piracy changed to logging as a major industry and the jungles soon gave up much of their logwood and mahogany. The British declared the country their colony of British Honduras in 1862. In 1981 it became the independent nation of Belize.

Belize is a good starting point for going to the Mayan ruins of Tikal in nearby Guatemala, and of Copan in Honduras. There is a popular daily bus service running from Chetumal, Mexico, southward through Belize via Belize City and then SW into Guatemala ending at Flores, which is the stepping off point to visit the fabulous ancient Mayan city of Tikal.

A trip to tropical Caye Caulker is a must even if you're not into swimming and diving. Caulker township is a series of guest houses spread along sandy lanes amid the coconut palms. Boaties vie for business to take visitors to the barrier reef. Speed boats leave from the moorings close to the swing bridge in Belize City. You skim across the shallow blue Caribbean Sea dotted with mangrove islets and coral islands studded with coconut palms. Within an hour you are in an exciting new world.

To explore the hinterland the DIY traveler, or backpacker, must come to grips with the bus system. The heaven for old US school buses is Belize (or Central America in general). This recycling of buses is admirable and fine if you are child-size or an Indian. However, most Europeans come in large or tall sizes and will suffer some discomfiture from the confined seating.

The southern coast road is the route to Guatemala and Honduras. The seaside town at road's end is Punta Gorda, or PG to the locals. At PG you can join ecotours of the interior to visit the jungle or stay in Indian villages. Finally, you can brace yourself for the exciting speedboat ride across the estuary to Puerto Barrio in Guatemala, and so on to Honduras and the ancient Mayan city of Copan. The secret to survival on these water taxis is to sit on a cushion well aft under a spray-proof covering and hope for the best. Latecomers get put up front and end up like sodden drowned rats.

The hazards of using local transport can be avoided by joining a package tour; in fact 20% of Belize tourism is from bird watching groups coming from North America and Europe. These small groups are whisked away from the airport to stay at well-appointed jungle lodges, especially in the Mountain Pine Ridge region around San Ignacio. Besides bird and animal watching there is hiking, horse riding, exploring caves and canoeing.

The enigma of Belize is that there is much to attract the tourist and much that doesn't. The tour operators cleverly succeed in their business by hiding the latter. The brave lone traveller and backpackers must tread warily. &&&

**Guatemala** is another place to buy wonderful handicrafts and fabrics plus experience great food. Men can buy inexpensive shirts and woven scarfs that make good neck ties. The round trip from the Yucatan through Belize and Guatemala and so back to Mexico is quite a challenge for the budget traveller.

### Guatemalan Traverse

**Flores and Tikal**  
Guatemala has always attracted me for its wonderful scenery and food. I felt the need to revisit the highlights of previous trips and absorb some new experiences. From the Yucatan I planned to stop at Flores and revisit Tikal, then bus across to Antigua and spend a couple of weeks in the Western Highlands before heading north and returning to Mexico to rest up awhile in San Cristobal de Las Casas.

The journey from Chetumal, Mexico, through Belize to Guatemala, ending up in Flores can be done in a day. Some hardy travelers stay overnight at the bus terminal for the 6 am start, or alternatively you can, as I did, stay at a Chetumal motel. The 2nd class bus goes via Belize City and then westerly to the border station which is swarming with money changers. Naturally you don't want any Belize currency but the authorities insist on some payments being made in Belize dollars even though you are in-transit for the day.

The bus continues on to Guatemala, eventually arriving at the town of Santa Elena and then goes across the lake causeway to the island town of Flores, arriving at 2.15 pm. By the time you have found your luggage you will be accosted and whisked away to the delightful backpackers called "Los Amigos", only 5 minutes walk up the hill. At the bar you can get a nice cool dark ale called "Moza" which is an excellent brew. The island abounds in nice guest houses catering for the tourist. You are back in civilization again!

I was impressed with Los Amigos backpackers. It has a relaxed atmosphere and is full of international travellers. There are hammocks and soft music. On-site is a mini-restaurant producing yummy meals and snacks. In the evenings we drank Spanish red and white wine with our meals, although we always exhausted their daily supply because of the high contingency of Australian backpackers.

Of course, one must visit Tikal, that fantastic ancient Mayan city hidden in the jungle. Not a problem. Minibuses go hourly from Flores and an early start, say 6 am, is a good idea. It costs about US$12 for the trip including entrance fee. You can stay as long as you like exploring the ruins and then find a convenient bus back to Flores.

There are plenty Internet cafes within 100 meters of the hostel but there are no banks on the island. To find an ATM you have to walk across the causeway to the adjacent town of Santa Elena which is bustling and a trite grotty, so _"cuidado"!_ The island of Flores is very pleasant and safe and you can go swimming off some of the jetties to cool off.

How to get from Flores to Antigua? Quickest way is to fly. Or go by bus. The adventurous can head south by rough roads via Coban taking a few days, or painlessly you can take an overnight almost 1st class bus via sealed roads and Rio Dulce, to arrive in Guatemala City at 6 am. It meets up with a mini van that takes you on to Antigua and drops you at the door of your motel or backpackers.

**Western Highlands**  
Antigua Guatemala is the tourist hub of the Western Highlands and of Guatemala. It is where everybody goes. The town was established in 1543 and served as the capital until about 1774 when the Government administration was shifted to the present site of Guatemala City. Antigua was being constantly racked by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions but the new site is not much better in this regard, being very earthquake prone. Nevertheless, Antigua remains a very beautiful Spanish-colonial town and has a UNESCO listing as a World Heritage Site.

Antigua is famous for its many language schools, wonderful colonial architecture and fine restaurants. There are 3 volcanic cones visible from downtown and not far away is the often very active Volcan Pacaya. Only 2 hours by shuttle from Antigua is Panajachel, the resort town at Lago Atitlan. You can get dropped off at the jetty and take a _"colectivo lancha_ " to any village around the lake, in particular, San Pedro.

**San Pedro La Laguna**  
San Pedro "on the lake" is a favoured spot for travellers wishing to take Spanish lessons for minimal cost from language schools. Also many willing local resident teachers have advertising signs on their front gate. The advantage of San Pedro is its relaxed village atmosphere and cheap accommodation. I stayed at Casa Elena, an extensive 3-story concrete complex that extends down to the lake shore via tidy stone paths and terraces to a jetty, convenient for swimming. I had a clean private room with two beds costing 30 Quetzales, or US$4/night. There are many hospedajes (family homes with rooms to rent), and more up-market guest houses and hotels further up the hill and along the beach front.

One consequence of its isolation and cheap accommodation is that San Pedro has more than its fair share of hippies and weirdoes who relish a peaceful existence away from the European rat-race. Some eke out a living by making silver jewelry and other craft items and selling their wares from street stalls or blankets spread on the ground. All new tourists get accosted at the jetty by locals with information about accommodation and the ready availability of locally grown marijuana, the latter not being of interest to me. The locally grown coffee beans are a different matter. The several coffee bean processing plants in the village are fascinating for visitors.

Another attraction of San Pedro is the gourmet-style dining available at bargain-basement prices- great breakfasts and lunches for US$2 to 3 and dinners for $4 to 5. It seems the village has become a haven for trained chefs from Europe and North America who have fled their snowy northern homelands to do their own thing i.e., start a restaurant in a laid-back idyllic part of the world. Within a stone's throw of the jetty there are some remarkable eateries.. e.g., "D'Noz" and the "Elegre Pub", an English-style pub started a couple of years ago by two guys from the UK offering imported beers and a roast dinner on Friday evenings. And then there are dozens of other intriguing restaurants around the lake front and inland just waiting for their courses to be sampled.

What else to do in San Pedro? You can hike up the forest trail to the summit of Volcan San Pedro (3020 meters) at your doorstep to get a glorious view of the lake or go fishing around the lake shore. The fishing I found disappointing. The numerous _"pescado blanco_ " readily took a fly or spinner but were of small size, although in quantity they are a favoured Indian food. I did watch a local guy catch a black bass (a 17 incher) by spin fishing off the shore but you really need a boat to tackle them. Why don't they stock the lake with rainbow trout?

Another disappointment was the pollution which unfortunately is typical of Latin American countries. The village streets and lake shore are littered with garbage. Still there is hope. One day when out fishing I encountered a boy scout group from Solola. Their scout master had organized them to spend the morning picking up rubbish and putting it in plastic bags, Wow! What a difference it made to the landscape!

**Lago Atitlan**  
In Panajachel the Museo Lacustrine Atitln housed in the Hotel Posada de Don Rodrigo is well worth a visit for travelers interested in the origin of Lago Atitlan. Guatemala has 37 volcanoes of which three are classed as currently active (Pacaya, Fuego and Santiaguito) and all are located in the Western Highlands. The latter have barren cinder cones and, when not erupting, (i.e., sending up ash plumes and or producing lava flows) are quietly smoking away. After a few hundred years of non-activity the Guatemalan volcanoes become covered in vegetation and jungle even though most are of over 3000 meters altitude.

Geologists tell us that on the Pacific Ocean side of Guatemala, the Los Cocos tectonic plate is pushing itself under the Caribbean plate (which includes Guatemala) causing partial fusion of the rocks at depths of about 80 kms. Periodically this molten material (magma) is squeezed upwards along zones of weakness and may burst forth at the surface as a volcanic eruption.

About 150,000 years ago a large magma chamber developed at modest depth (Batholith de los Chocoyos) from which volcanoes began to appear in the region. Then, about 85,000 years ago there was one "super-duper" eruption (like a pressure cooker exploding) causing the whole batholith to discharge over a short period. Volcanic ash was spread all over Mexico and as far south as Costa Rica. In the central region the ash deposits were 1 to 3 meters thick. A cauldron some 18 kms in diameter formed and all previous volcanoes collapsed or disappeared. The huge depression soon filled with water to form Lago Atitlan whose area has since been modified somewhat by the eruption of new volcanoes around the periphery (e.g., volcanoes San Pedro, San Marcos, Cristalina, Toliman and Atitlan).

The wonderful lake vista that we see today is thus due to a cataclysmic volcanic explosion which no doubt caused appreciable global climate change for many years afterwards. The Los Chocoyos super-eruption is named after the "chocoyos" parakeets which nest in the holes left behind from charred tree trunks buried in the volcanic ash deposits. Such a geological event happens all too frequently. In New Zealand, in the volcanic region of the North Island, beautiful Lake Taupo (full of trout) formed in the same way, and only 1800 years ago!

**Back to Mexico**  
My route, with stopovers, was Antigua, Panajachel, Xela (Quetzeltenango) to the border town of La Semilla, mostly by "chicken bus". It was with a sigh of relief that I crossed the border into Mexico and found waiting a modern 4-wheel drive colectivo waiting to whisk me through to San Cristobal de Las Casas. &&&  
Before any reader ventures forth into Latin America please take note of the following:

### Safety in Numbers

Is it safe to travel in Latin America? Yes, provided you take precautions. As a tourist you are more likely to be blown up in London or New York, or shot at in Cairo or Damascus. Travelling alone you can expect on average to be robbed once a month. You have to minimise the effect so that your trip is not ruined. It is safer to travel as a pair with your girl friend or vice versa and so watch one another for trouble looming.

The tourist is constantly watched by robbers who are often children. You are a walking gold mine to them. They want cash and electronic gear that can easily be sold for cash. They have many tricks of the trade to fool you and constantly practice them. Robbers and pickpockets are VERY fast in action.

Twice I have had my daypack stolen when travelling alone in Guatemala and Peru. I did not even see the robber. Now I always have a two metre length of light chain or cord with dog-clips to attach daypack to my belt, or onto my heavy wheelie bag. When at a restaurant your daypack can be at your feet but securely attached to you.

This brings me to my first misadventure which happened on an early visit to Panajachel at Lago Atitlan in Guatemala. On arrival I fixed up a room in a nice hospedaje and went downtown to the post office to mail off a few postcards. While at the counter my daypack was at my feet with no chain. I finished my business and looked down to find no backpack! What stupidity, because I realized I had put some money and passport in my daypack, which you should never do. Woe is me!

I was alone in Guatemala with hardly any cash and no passport! What to do?

I rang through to my VISA card international office and got them to send me $200 to a local bank. I reported the theft at the police station and asked them how I could get into Mexico without a passport, since the nearest place I could get another was the New Zealand Embassy in Mexico City. The police were sympathetic and advised me to go the Mayor of Panajachel and ask him to write a note explaining the situation and for me to give it to the border police. This I did and when flush again with money I caught the bus north to the Mexican border. Hurrah! Success, they let me back in. A fast collective ride took me to San Cristobal de Las Casas but I did not stop over; I caught the next bus to Mexico City and arrived two days later.

It took me two days to get a new passport after providing all the ID and necessary photos. So I was ready to go again but to where? Back I went to Guatemala by bus taking two days, ending at Chetumal on the border, because I wanted to visit Tikal and Flores before leaving Central America.

What can be learnt from this misadventure?

  1. Always have your daypack tied to your belt or something substantial.

  2. It is best to carry your passport in a pouch, with some emergency money, hung around your neck. In all my travels I have never been physically attacked.

  3. Carry money and credit card in your money belt.

  4. Use your email/hotmail account to hide all your information on passwords, credit card numbers and airline ticket details etc, so they are retrievable from cyberspace at an internet café, if need be _._ Buen viaje!

### Tikal Ruins, Guatemala

The steamy hot jungles of the eastern Guatemalan lowlands hide evidence of a vast Mayan civilization that prospered around 700 AD. Archaeologists exploring the region excavated forest-clad mounds that led to the discovery of a complex network of ancient cities.

Topoxte, Yaxha, Nakun, Uaxatun, El Mirador and many more – but the most spectacular city of all is Tikal, with its five skyscraper-like temples poking above the forest canopy. The highest, at 65 metres, is the temple of the Two Headed Snake (Temple IV), which was built by King Yaxkin Caan Chac around 470 AD.

The base of the pyramid is a tangle of trees and vines with wooden steps leading steeply upwards. At the halfway terrace is the entrance to a tomb. It is a welcome breathing spot and viewpoint over the forest. A steady stream of tourists from all over the world, young and old, bodies dripping with perspiration, pause to rest. Panting, they admire the view. Next they study their guide book and take photographs before continuing upwards.

The final 8 metres is up a vertical iron ladder to access the summit ledge. I hestitate. Will I, or won't I? Resting awhile to gather breath and confidence, I watch some tourist bottoms disappear successfully upwards. Others give one look and shake their heads – "Not for me," they say. Really, the Mayans have a lot to answer for – no thought for the well being of tourists coming 1300 years later. I pluck up courage and ascend rung by rung, to finally burst forth onto the topmost ledge. Wow! What a view!

Jungle tops stretch to the horizon, punctuated by the summits of four stone temples. Some 700 metres distant is the Great Plaza, where the ruler Ah Cacao, alias King Chocolate, built the temple of the Masks (Temple II) and the Temple of the Great Jaguar (Temple I), his burial site, ca 700 AD.

At ground level the tourists picnic under rustic shelters, sharing tit bits with the multi-hued ocellated turkey. Howler monkeys, shy of humans, swing in the tree tops. Black vultures glide overhead and gather to roost on top of the Temple of the Great Jaguar. Fascinating are the leaf cutter ants. These industrious creatures have a special tree from which they cut up leaves into tiny pieces and then carry them to their den maybe fifty metres distant. This busy column of ants, coming and going, suggests how the Mayans built these huge stone cities.

Tikal lies 71 kms NE of Flores, the capital of El Peten Province. Flores is a tidy Spanish colonial village crowded onto an island hill in Lake Peten Itza. It is connected to the mainland and the seedy town of Santa Elena by a half kilometre stone causeway. Santa Elena is a scary wreck of a place having unsealed streets frequented by roaming cattle, pigs and chickens. But walk across the causeway and you enter a new world – Flores the tourist town, with sealed streets, colonial buildings, craft shops, economical hotels and hospedajes, and dinky cafes and restaurants with lakeside views.

There is much to see and do in Flores. It is a good place to linger and relax, a real chillage spot. The El Tucan restaurant on the lakeshore is a great place but watch out for the bird life. Their over-friendly pet Macaw parrot will insist on its share of your meal. If it gets close enough to you it will crunch to pieces any shirt button or ear-ring! You can cruise the lake in a motorized dugout canoe, visit lakeside villages and a zoo, and go fishing for bass. The hilltop plaza houses the cathedral and a tourist information office.

A daily minibus service operates between Flores and Tikal with a pickup at Flores hotels for US$7 return. Entrance fee to the National Park is US$10. Leaving at 6am, you arrive by 7.30 am ready for breakfast at the rustic Gran Jaguar restaurant near the park entrance.

Early morning mist makes the one kilometre walk to the first temple somewhat eerie. The jungle is as fascinating as the ruins. Fat-trunked ceiba trees and Spanish cedar bedecked with epiphytes and orchids, once provided timbers for houses and canoes. Spices and fruits abound and were used by the Maya, including pimiento and chicle, the source of chewing gum.

Grassy glades extend around the Great Plaza, the centre of the ancient city of Tikal. What a magnificent spot! East and west of the plaza are the Temples of the Gran Jaguar and the Masks, while to the north lies the sprawling Acropolis.

By midday the ruins are alive with tourists. The heat is stifling as the sun reflects off the white limestone walls and paths. I escape the blistering heat of the plaza by strolling the cool jungle paths – animals scamper here and there – the pizote or coatimundi, the rat-like capybara, and foxes do their thing. Being surrounded by jungle makes Tikal so different from the other famous Mayan sites of Uxmal and Chitchen Itza in the Yucatan.

Tikal was an important Mayan settlement for over 1500 years, starting about 700 BC. During the Classic Period 300 – 900 AD, the city prospered through trade and military conquest when the population peaked at 100,000. This period began with King Yax Moch Xoc, followed by King Great Jaguar Paw, Lord Water, General Smoking Frog, Lord Chocolate all playing their part. Lord Chocolate (682 – 734 AD) was the 26th successor to the throne after Yax Moch Xoc and he and others were responsible for building the two temples on the great plaza.

The civilization suffered a mysterious collapse after 900 AD when the cities became deserted and the jungle took over. Remanent Maya settled around Lago Peten Itza and on the island now occupied by Flores. Their island village of Tayasal was captured by the Spanish in 1697.

The lost world of the Maya was rediscovered by European explorers in the 1840's and it rapidly became a focus for archaeological research which is continuing today. The tourist boom is a comparatively recent phenomenon. Today the 576 sq km Tikal National Park with its thousands of preserved stone structures is there for all to explore and enjoy. &&&

### Lago Atitlan

Chill out at Lago Atitlan, Western Highlands of Guatemala

I like to collect places to chill out at. What does this mean? My dictionary tells me that it is "an area or place that enhances a relaxed mood". Or, the verb is "to pass time without a particular aim or purpose". After a month of continuous daily travel one looks forward to stopping awhile in one place and just loafing around doing nothing much but enjoying the scenery and absorbing the local culture.

One such place to chill out at, and I have returned to many times is Lago Atitlán, which is one of the world's most beautiful lakes, located in the Western Highlands of Guatemala. To be more specific, I recommend firstly staying at the lake shore tourist town of Panajachel, or Pana for short, to acclimatization, then follow with a week or more across the lake at the village of San Pedro La Laguna. Other villages around the lake do vie for tourist custom but you will not be disappointed with San Pedro.

What's so special about Lago Atitlán? It represents a huge depression left by a super-duper volcanic explosion that happened about 85,000 years ago, just before man arrived in this region. Geologists tell us that Guatemala lies above a tectonic subduction zone whereby the Cocos Plate of the Pacific Ocean region is being pushed under the Caribbean Plate which includes most of Guatemala. Volcanic activity is rife in the region. Guatemala has 37 volcanoes of which three are classed as currently active (Pacaya, Fuego and Santiaguito).

The beautiful lake scenery we have today is due a cataclysmic volcanic explosion which spread ash all over what is now Mexico and Costa Rica. A cauldron 18 kms in diameter formed and soon filled with water to form Lago Atitlán, which has no outflow river. New volcanoes erupted around the periphery of the lake giving us the recent volcanic cones of San Pedro, San Marcos, Cristalina, Toliman and Atitlán. The origin of Lago Atitlán is well described at the Museo Lacustrine Atitlán housed at the Hotel Posada de Ron Rodigo in Panajachel.

Panajachel (population 15,000) is the main lakeside town whose main street occupies a narrow valley penetrating the steep walls of the volcanic crater rim. The lake level is at altitude 1562 meters. Across the lake are the perfect volcanic cones of San Pedro, Tolman and Atitlán, the later reaching 3537 meters altitude, and often seen puffing steam from its summit. Tourists arrive here by bus from Antigua or Guatemala City. Accommodation is plentiful and varied, ranging from 3 star resort hotels, to modest guest houses and inexpensive hospedajes.

Pana is noted for its shopping and great range of handicrafts available, including Mayan clothing and fabrics, jewelry, wood, leather and pottery items, with some wholesale outlets available. Calle Santander, the main commercial street, is chokers with stalls, craft shops, restaurants, cybercafés, travel agencies and buzzes with activity day and night. Then one can head for the lake shore to browse around the many restaurants to enjoy a superb lake vista and choose one place to have lunch or dinner. Many restaurants offer live entertainment, particularly guitar and vocal groups. Walk or take a tuk-tuk.

Pana is very laid back place to chill out in. Why not attend a Spanish language school and have a home stay with a local family? Cost of living is cheap. Guatemalan food is an amazing variety of rice, eggs, black beans, salads, vegetables and tropical fruits with chicken, turkey, pork and fish, spicy or lightly seasoned, and served with tortillas. Close to the lake shore are floating cages of little fish farms (tilapia) which supply the local market with fresh fish. Deep fried fish is always on the menu.

Calle del Embarcadero takes you to the lake front where all the little boats come and go. Best to go early in the morning when there is less wind and calm waters. A day excursion on the lake stopping to browse and shop at 3 or 4 villages is well worthwhile. You will get a taste of San Pedro village which is my choice for another week of relaxation. Pack up your things and head across the lake to this delightful Indian settlement that caters for tourists.

San Pedro is a favorite amongst budget travelers for its very cheap living, budget accommodation, fantastic restaurant meals and many inexpensive language schools. The main town is on top of the hill but the touristy part is along the lake shore thus providing great vistas. The landing wharf has a couple of fine restaurants adjacent. The boat visitor is immediately contacted by locals from nearby guest houses and hospedajes offering cheap accommodation. No problems there.

Get settled in for a week of sampling fine Guatemalan meals, interspersed with an occasional full English breakfast and English roast beef dinner. Buy silver jewelry and crafty things from the hippies who spread their wares on a blanket on the sidewalk I was fascinated by the operational coffee bean processing plants located right in town. Hike around the village and have a swim in the lake. If you are really energetic try climbing Volcan San Pedro (3020 meters) located right at your back doorstep. Anglers with a spinning rod make be lucky to catch a bass, but alas _, no hay truchas_. A few floating fish cages provide tilapia for the market.

Well, there you have it! I have disclosed two of my favorite chillages. Give it a go at Lago Atitlán. You won't be disappointed. &&&

Looking at Jade

Where in Central America is the best place to buy jade? You will find some nice pieces in San Cristobal de Las Casas, but to see the widest range of jade head for Antigua, Guatemala.

### Jade at Antigua

Guatemala is the home of Mayan jade. Last summer I stopped for a week in Antigua, the old colonial capital. It is located 45 kms west of Guatemala City, the modern capital. In Antigua, a thriving lapidary industry produces beautiful carvings and jewellery from Guatemalan jadeite.

Jade is the term given to two similar gem materials, called jadeite and nephrite. Jadeite is harder, denser and scarcer than nephrite; it is found in a wider range of colors, from white, pink, through various greens to black, and takes a high polish.

In Central America, the ancient Mayan culture prized jadeite for ornamentation and it was painstakingly converted into works of art. Excavation of the Mayan pyramids at Palenque and Tikal reveal that it was the custom for their Kings to be entombed with a mosaic death mask of jadeite.

Spanish conquest of the region in the 16th century resulted in the source of jadeite being lost The jadeite quarries were abandoned and quickly became covered the encroaching jungle. It was not until the 1950's that evidence of Mayan workings were found in the jungle of the Sierra de las Minas in eastern Guatemalan. These secret quarries in the remote Motagua Valley were studied by the American archaeologist Mary Lou Ridinger. In 1974 she proceeded to establish a viable mining and processing business known today as Jades SA, of which she is president.

There are two companies in Antigua working jadeite from this area; they are Jades SA and La Casa del Jade SA; both produce exquisite jewellery and artifacts on site, and have extensive display rooms where you can browse for hours. So the lapidary part of the industry is about 200 kms from the mine site. It is an important tourist attraction which creates a confidence for value and authenticity in the product with the tourist buyer, which includes well-heeled North Americans and Europeans.

The town of Antigua is itself a gem. The old Spanish capital of Guatemala is beautifully preserved. It is a haven for students who come here to learn Spanish. There are over 70 language schools, this being the main "industry" of the town. Tourists come too, in luxury buses for the day, and longer.

On every street corner it seems there is an old church, or monastery, often in ruins since earthquakes have taken their toll over the centuries. You admire the colonial architecture. The amazing variety of Indian craft goods for sale in the streets and market places will soon exhaust your cash supply and trendy restaurants will dent your credit card.

Antigua is a town you could easily settle into and disappear from the rat race for a few weeks, or months, and not realize that time has flown by. There is so much to do and see, and learn. The climate is temperate. It lies in the Western Highlands at an altitude of 1530 metres, with a backdrop of three dormant volcanoes, Agua, Fuego and Acatenago, that all rise to over 3700 metres above sea level.

The jade factories and show rooms are located on Calle Oriente close to the central plaza. First you must negotiate safe passage past the armed guards at the entrance. This is normal in Guatemala with businesses that handle lots of money. Tourists are pretty obvious so you should have no trouble. Once inside the staff will be offering you cups of coffee, free gifts and will answer all questions.

In the block adjacent to the plaza is a 17th century building that houses La Casa del Jade SA, with its lapidary workshop and display rooms. Their jewellery is designed by Guatemalan artist Estela Lopez. Out the back I inspected piles of rough jadeite waiting to be cut up on a large diamond saw. A small workshop employs about a dozen craftsmen. They use five stages of carborundum wheel, from 100 to 600 grit size, to grind the jade to shape, followed by finishing, and polishing with sapphire powder on a leather lap.

I was intrigued by the replicas of the Mayan death masks. The manager explained how they were made. A wooden model of a head is used upon which is drawn the mosaic pieces for jade to be fabricated – it's like fitting together a jigsaw puzzle! Features are emphasised by using black jade and other colors. Highly prized is "galactic gold jade" which is black with sparkling yellow pyrite crystals.

Further down Calle Oriente is the business of Jades SA owned by the Ridingers. It employs about 50 lapidaries and is the largest jade factory in Central America. The show rooms have a fantastic collection of replica masks, including one of King Pakal, found in the temple pyramid of Palenque, Mexico, dated 692 AD.

Adjacent to the show rooms is an extensive courtyard with fountain, flowering shrubs, outdoor restaurant, café and craft shops selling designer clothes, rubbings of Mayan temple carvings and Indian wares. This fascinating place is open 7 days a week from 9am to 6.30pm. A free pickup from your hotel is available for a tour of the factory and shop. Both jade companies produce top quality jade jewellery in association with authentic precious stones such as diamond, ruby and emerald.

On the streets of Antigua is a different world of gemstones – the lower end of the market, but equally as interesting. For $3 you can buy interesting jade pendants carved in the shape of Mayan Kings, of fish and other lucky charms. Green necklaces for $7 may have a centrepiece of jade with matching beads of green glass and rock crystal spacers. Tiger's eye, amethyst, agate and carnelian bead jewellery is offered for a few dollars. I guarantee you won't leave Antigua without some memento of Guatemalan jade! &&&

Some Info about Antigua

How to get there? American Airlines has frequent daily flights into Guatemala City, the capital of Guatemala, from Los Angles, Dallas and Miami. Guatemala City, metro population 2.5 million, altitude 1500 metres, is a tad chaotic and not a place to linger. Most tourists and backpackers get on the first bus to **Antigua Guatemala** , population 35,000, the beautifully preserved former colonial capital some 45 kms distant.

Antigua is a great place to rest up awhile. It is a favourite stopping point for backpackers and students learning Spanish. Budget accommodation is plentiful. See the Tourist Information Center, Lonely Planet or check with any language school for home-stays (ca US50/week). There are many language schools in Antigua varying in degree of formality, course structure and price. Often a visitor may desire only a week's one-to-one instruction possibly with a home-stay to absorb local culture. I tried Academia Guatebuena for a week which was excellent and a bargain. For US$110/week you get 4 hours one-to-one instruction in the morning for 5 days, Monday to Friday and accommodation with a local family for 7 days and 3 meals a day except Sunday. Okay for breakfast and lunch but let _mama_ know when you are dining out.

It is a Guatemalan custom to celebrate birthdays by letting of large calibre fireworks in the evening. Revolution starting? Not so. Do not be worried by the constant flashes and bursts of "gunfire" at night time.

A popular organized trip from Antigua is the ascent of nearby Pacaya volcano

(2552m) which smokes away when not actually in eruption. Trips for students leave from the plaza at 2pm and return at 10pm. The object is to see the sunset from the summit and the crater glow at night. Cost is $25, includes 1 ½ hour bus ride and 2 hour hike. When I went the group encountered gale-force winds causing a blinding sandstorm on the ash cone thus preventing anyone getting to the top. This can be a dangerous excursion and is poorly organized. Be prepared for a mountain disaster.

Reliable flashlights are needed to traverse the dense bush at the base of the cone and it's easy to get lost. Guatemala is a wonderful country for the foreign tourist but forever be vigilant for _los ladrones – cuidado!_

Gemstones of Mexico and Guatemala

**Opals**  
Mexico is famous for its "Fire Opal", which is a type of opal rarely found in Australia. It is defined as a transparent to translucent stone with an orange to red body color which may or may not show a play of color. Also found is "Water Opal" which is a colorless (or very pale yellow or faint pink) transparent variety often showing a play of iridescent colors. Jewelry shops and street stalls in Mexico are well stocked with local opal and not once did I see any Australian material.

Mexican opal is found as nodules and veins in weathered volcanic rocks rich in silica. Because of its natural shape and transparency it is usually fashioned into high-domed cabochons and is often faceted into attractive gemstones of oval and cushion-shape. The high quality stones are very attractive with their pure orange body color showing a delicate play of rainbow colors when viewed at different angles. Lesser quality stones are more translucent and may have whitish agate-like banding whilst others have matrix attached, all of which makes for an interesting variety in appearance.

The center of opal production and lapidary work is the state and city of Queretaro, located 215 kms NW of Mexico City. This Spanish colonial town (population 850,000) has a UNESCO heritage listing for its historic center and is worth visiting to admire the beautiful shops, restaurants and churches. There are many little plazas linked by cobblestone pedestrian malls full of craft stalls.

Opal was first discovered in Queretaro state in 1835, near San Juan del Rio and Tequisquiapan, and the most important mines are San Filipe, Cerro Viejo and La Carbonara. A yellow, and red fire opal are found in a trachytic porphyry in Hidalgo state. Opal occurrences are fairly widespread in the northern volcanic regions of Mexico, and some is found in Guatemala and Honduras. Pre-Columbian relics in anthropology museums show that the Olmecs, Aztecs and Mayans used and traded opal, along with jade and other semiprecious stones.

Climate may be a factor causing opal formation in these volcanic rocks. The Mexican altiplano has an arid climate with any rain confined to the summer months of June to October. Continual wetting and drying out of surface outcrops could mobilize the silica during the weathering process to favor opal formation.

**Jade**  
Mexican and Guatemalan jade is the variety jadeite, which is a pyroxene of ideal composition NaAlSi2O6. It was extensively used in Pre-Hispanic times by the Indians for carving into art works e.g., figurines, beads, pendants and mosaic masks, which were owned by priests and royalty. Weapons of war included jade adzes and clubs. The Mayans and Olmecs even used jadeite for tooth inlays. Drilling, sawing and shaping was achieved by abrasion with wood or slate implements loaded with sand, preferably a red garnet sand obtained from the rivers. Very fine examples of ancient jade lapidary work can be seen in the Museums of Anthropology in Mexico City and Jalapa.

When the Spanish arrived in Mexico ca 1520 AD and the Conquistadors took over the country and enslaved the Indians, the sources of this jade were lost, because they were hidden and the workings became overgrown by the jungle. The Spanish wanted gold and silver and were not impressed by the green stones coveted by the Indians. The Guatemalan occurrences of jade in the Sierra de las Minas mountains were rediscovered in 1975 by the American archeologist Mary Lou Ridinger who, with her husband Jay, went on and established a mining operation there, and lapidary works, museum and sales outlet (Jades SA) situated in the beautiful tourist town of Antigua Guatemala in the Western Highlands.

Another center of jade production today is San Cristobal de Las Casas in the southern Mexican state of Chiapas, which borders onto Guatemala. The "Casa del Jade" is an up-market jewelry shop and museum with some lapidary work done on-site. The rough material is obtained from the mountains around Chalchihuitan, some 70 kms north of San Cristobal.

The jadeite comes in a wide range of colors, translucency and purity (more so than nephrite jade). All types have their special lapidary uses. Colors range from white to black, through brown, orange, pink and many shades of green (apple, grass, emerald etc) and "Galactic Gold" having spangles of pyrite. New colors discovered are lavender, mottled white and blue and light yellow. The most valuable is of emerald green color having high transparency (Imperial Jade). The highly transparent material is of small size and is fashioned into cabochons for fine jewelry.

Jadeite has a granular structure of fine crystals and is often mixed with other minerals such as albite and diopside. Low cost jade pendants (US$5) available from street stalls in Mexico seem to be a jade rock , having a mottled green and white appearance, the green jadeite being perhaps 75% of the whole.

The success of the jade industry in Mexico and Guatemala (insignificant overall) is due to their concentration on up-market sales of fine art work which are bought by wealthy collectors from North America and Europe. They make superb replicas of Aztec and Mayan figurines (labeled, this is a replica of a valuable figurine in a specific Museum of Anthropology) and there is no shortage of Mayan glyphs and other ancient carvings to copy. The latter may be etched on large slabs of polished black jade and look magnificent. Mosaic jade death masks are popular and make fine ornaments for one's home, but their price was beyond my budget (some over US$4000).

**Amber**  
Amber is a fossilized resin originating from pine trees. It is found as transparent lumps, of yellow to red color, in Tertiary Age sediments of shallow water origin. The classic deposits are along the Baltic coastline of eastern Europe where for centuries amber has been recovered from glauconitic sands of Oligocene Age (ca 30 million years). It is used for ornamentation, medicinal purposes, in funeral rites and production of varnishes and succinic acid.

The ancient Mayans of southern Mexico also used and traded amber. The present day mines are near Simojovel and Totolapa in Chiapas state, some 80 kms north of San Cristobal de Las Casas, not far from the jade deposits. It occurs in a grey, micaceous, sandstone of late Oligocene to early Miocene Age (20 to 30 million years) with a capping of lignite. It originates from the resin of the tree "Guapinol" and is found associated with fossil brachiopods, gastropods and molluscs. It is a mountainous area and the workings simply consist of adits dug by miners ( _los ambareros_ ) into the hillside.

In San Cristobal one must visit the Museo del Ambar de Chiapas which is housed in the Ex Convento de la Merced, to see a huge collection of local amber and to learn the history of its exploitation. The Simojovel area is the most productive of clear yellow to pinkish amber, whilst the Totolapa amber is more reddish with frequent inclusions of insects. Some 75 different species of insects have been identified including ants, butterflies, spiders, mosquitoes and other flies to 1 cm size. Colors vary (like sherry and port wine) from clear yellow, cognac, red, cream and black.

Clear yellow amber with insect inclusions is highly prized for pendants and display specimens. Polished amber pieces are set in silver jewelry. The local silversmithing is excellent with the usual range of pendants, bead necklaces, cabochons in rings and earrings. Large pieces, 6 to 10 cm size are carved into figurines, birds, animals, frogs etc. Some expensive necklaces have amber combined with either lapis lazuli or jade. Much of the low cost amber for sale on street stalls is pressed amber, made by heating under pressure small, otherwise useless fragments. Amber melts around 220C and will aggregate into a single lump, complete with added insect inclusions and many air bubbles. Be suspicious if your amber pendant has an imbedded scorpion or peso coin!  
&&&

Heading south again can be a problem.

### Gulf of Honduras

It was in Merida in the Yucatan, Mexico, early morning, when I fare welled my travel companion Chrissy who was flying back to Australia. Next I boarded a bus going south to Chetumal located on the border with Belize.

I had allowed one month to travel to Panama City where I would catch a plane to Jo'burg, South Africa. This seemed a reasonable time frame and a nice challenge exploring new territory. First priority was to arrive in one piece with all belongings. Anything else would be a bonus! My big worry was the Gulf of Honduras. How to bridge the gap from Belize to Honduras because there are no roads? Only small boats take a few passengers across the Gulf now and then. I have never liked small boats but enjoy travelling on big ones, preferably of 5000 tonnes upwards.

Through Belize

At Chetumal I caught the 9.45 am Batty Bus to Belize City. It stopped briefly at Corozal and Orange Walk, arriving at Belize City 2.30 pm. They had no bus going further south but suggested going to the Z-Line terminal several blocks away. Not wanting to stay overnight, I hurtled around to this terminal and climbed aboard the 3 pm Z-Line bus to Dandriga, a southern river port and my first hope of getting across the Gulf.

The countryside? It's flat with sugar cane plantations, and some coconut and banana palms. Trucks ply the road plied high with cane for the mills. Nearer Dandriga there is much citrus. We stopped at Gales Point, a coastal resort which, like most Belizean towns, consists of ramshackle wooden houses about to fall down or be blown away by the next hurricane. It is peculiar seeing notices in English and road signs in miles in Central America, which is a consequence of this once being the colony of British Honduras.

At Dandriga I booked into the Riverside Hotel, conveniently located above a minimarket and close to where the boats are moored. Yes, there was a boat _(lancha)_ going to Honduras tomorrow morning! The lady at the booking office took my passport (to get an exit stamp) and I paid US$50 for the fare. "Be here at 9 o'clock in the morning," she said.

I awoke to the sounds of chickens and geese squawking. The boat was due to go at 9 or 9.30 am to catch the high tide. There were two English girls and an American guy who smoked a cigar impatiently, along with local dark-haired Hondurans; in all 12 passengers with gear and rucksacks to be stowed away. The weather was threatening, dull and overcast with a drizzle setting in.

I inspected our boat, a typical Belizean skiff, having two 150 Yamaha outboard motors, and with seats either side and open except for a covered area at the bow to store all the gear. It was not until 11 am that we climbed aboard and donned our lifejackets. The captain and two deckhands (although there was no deck) did not bother with lifejackets (typical boaties!).

Off we go

We cruised sedately down river under the bridge and headed for the river mouth waving goodbye to an old guy standing up in a dugout canoe. The we came to an abrupt halt in a foot of water! The tide was on its way out. Everybody out. Small boys came splashing over to give us a push. After much heaving for 50 meters we passed into deep water and gathered speed.

We headed SSE towards the barrier reef some 25 kms distant. Top speed was about 40 kms/hour which meant that everyone got drenched from spray and what with periodic tropical downpours, we quickly became a boatload of drowned rats. Now and then we passed palm-studded islands which were part of the reef. All very interesting on a fine day. It was difficult to see anything in the driving rain with a plastic garbage bag over my head with one hole to peer out of and huddled down behind the next passenger.

Pirate's Island

After two hours of high speed cruising we pulled into leeward of a tiny atoll called Pumpkin Caye , where there lived a Frenchman in a house on stilts. There were about 100 coconut palms and lots of coal and conch shells lying around. In the lagoon pelicans swooped down to catch fish. Here the crew refueled the boat with gasoline from drums. The captain fraternized with the Frenchman and we all had a cup of tea in the shelter underneath the house.

Radio contact was made with civilization. It was still blowing a gale with periodic driving rain. We waited two hours for the weather to improve. It didn't much. At 3 pm the captain decided to take off again for Puerto Cortes.

"Only a 1 ½ hour run", he informed us. "Have to go now to get there before dark!"

"Christ," I thought, I was half hopin we would stay overnight on the island, even standing up on terra firma would suit me fine!

Soon the tiny island and the barrier reef was left far behind as we roared along heading across the deep water of the Gulf towards Honduras. The swell got bigger and bigger reaching 2 to 3 meters with white caps breaking. The captain was standing up amidships at the wheel and the two crew sat at the back by the motors. He steered the boat skillfully in the heaving seas.

The garbage bag protected me somewhat from the spray and I kept my eyes shut, except to glance at my watch. Another 5 minutes gone ... only another 50 minutes ... another 40 minutes. Then I would check my compass; yes, we were heading SSE so we can't really miss Honduras provided we keep going.

Man Overboard!

Suddenly we bounced heavily off a wave and there was a yell "Hey!" the motors died and I looked out. One of the crew had gone overboard ! Silly bugger. No Lifejacket! He thought it was a great joke. If both crew had gone overboard we wouldn't have noticed and they would have been goners.

The captain circled the boat in the high seas and we dragged the guy aboard. Off we went again in the dimming light. By 4.45 pm I was overjoyed to see a light or two ahead. We are going to make it! More lights. Must be an oil refinery. The swell lessened and we roared at top speed into the harbour as if nothing had happened.

"We've never lost anybody yet!" declared the captain. It must have been a normal crossing for him, but not for me! &&&

The **Gulf of Honduras** is part of the Caribbean Sea and is bordered by Belize, Guatemala and Honduras. There are no roads that connect these countries on the Caribbean Coast, which makes southerly travel on the eastern coast difficult.

Small boat crossing points of the Gulf are as follows:

  1. Dandriga (Belize) to Puerto Cortes (Honduras) ca 120 kms

  2. Punta Gorda (Belize) to Puerto Barrios (Guatemala) ca 40 kms

  3. Punta Gorda (Belize) to Livingston (Guatemala) ca 30 kms

I do not recommend the first option from my experience of travelling across the deep sea in poor weather. However, the much shorter trips by speed boat to Guatemala across shallow coastal waters are much safer and quicker and useful.

Punta Gorda (PG) is as far south that you can go on the east coast of Belize. Not much to see at PG so travelers take the boat trip to Guatemala. Going to the tiny isolated settlement of Livingston allows you to explore the jungle clad Rio Dulce and Lago Izabal. Alternatively, one can take the boat to Puerto Barrios, also in Guatemala but located about 30 kms along the coast, where there is a road connection to Routes 9 and 13, which are main bus routes.

Route 9 is called the Carretera al Atlantico and goes from Guatemala City to Puerto Barrios which is Guatemala's only port on the Caribbean Coast. Half way along at Rio Hondo is a side road south, Route 10, which takes you to Chiquimula where you can stop over and arrange to bus over the border to Honduras and visit Copan Ruinas, which is the most southern of the ancient Mayan cities. This is the DIY method. However, it is much easier, faster and less traumatic to join a mini-bus trip to Copan from Antigua, Panajachel or Guatemala City.

### Copan Ruins in Honduras

Copan is the southernmost of the ancient cities of the vast Mayan civilization that flourished in the Classic Period of 300 to 900 AD. Today, national boundaries put it in northern Honduras, some 12 kms from the border with Guatemala. It is a wonderful UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The ruins are on the outskirts of the old Mayan and colonial village of Copan Ruinas, which has a population about 6000. The terrain is hilly and forested. The town is quaint with cobblestone streets and white adobe buildings with orange roof tiles. There are more horses than cars in town. The main taxi transport around the place is by cute "put-put" 3-wheeler vehicles.

Although the ancient ruins are the main attraction, the Copan Valley provides the tourist with many additional activities such as horse riding, bird watching, hot springs, visits to the local Mayan communities and a coffee farm. Also, it is a favorite place to learn Spanish, buy textile handicrafts and local products, such as coffee and cigars.

The Kings of Copan make the House of Windsor seem very boring and commonplace - what exotic names they have! King Great Sun Lord Quetzal Macaw was the founder of the city, followed later by King Waterlily Jaguar, Moon Jaguar and revered Smoke Imix (Jaguar) who was a wise and powerful king and built Copan into a military stronghold around 690 AD.

Smoke Shell, the 15th king had commissioned Copan's most famous edifice, the Hierographic Stairway which climbs up a massive pyramid. The final touches to this amazing Mayan city were done by Smoke Shell's successor, Yax Pac (Rising Sun), who reigned from 763 to 820 AD when the population peaked at 20,000. After the death of Yax Pac the city soon declined into oblivion. By 1200 AD the city was deserted and reclaimed by the jungle.

It is not known for sure why this happened but one can speculate. Factors of importance may have been over population, depletion of the soils and dwindling food supply, infectious diseases, and drought.

It was not until 1841 that an archeologist, John Stephens, brought the ruins of Copan to world attention. Excavation and restoration of the site began and continues to this day.

**Why is Copan so special?  
** The jungle setting is superb. Massive trees still grow on the sides of temple pyramids, on walls and in the plazas. It is easy to imagine the site 100 years ago completely smothered by dense vegetation. Monkeys scuttle about and gaudy Macaw parrots watch the tourist unfazed.

An enormous amount of forest clearing has been done to achieve the present immaculate lawn setting of the major structures. Facades are cleaned of vegetation and protected from weathering by awnings. Tunnels are being dug into several structures to search out royal tombs and so piece together the history in more detail. Recently (1998) a treasure trove of pottery and jade ornaments was found in the tomb of King Yax Huh Mo, dated about 400 AD.

The lawn of the Great Plaza is dotted with intricately carved 3 meter high limestone statues, or stelae, which are stylized representations of Kings who ruled in the period 610 to 740 AD. What a pity Picasso never saw King 18-Rabbit in all his bizarre depictions!

Across the Ball Court is the famous Hieroglyphic Stairway leading up a major temple-pyramid. The 63 steps are ornamented by thousands of intricate carvings (glyphs), depicting the history of Copan. It is now protected from the elements by an extensive canvas awning which somewhat detracts from the aesthetics.

Overlooking the Great Plaza is the Temple of the Inscriptions where images of all the 16 kings of Copan are carved in bold relief, including Yax Pac its creator and final royal. What the tourist gets to see are the Principal Group of excavated structures within a 500 meter square area, securely fenced in. Beyond is 24 square kilometers of jungle with 3500 mounds containing ruins awaiting excavation and study. A museum block adjacent to the Visitors' Center explains all.

What amazes me is although the Copan Valley is known to have been inhabited from at least 1400 BC , that over a period of a few hundred years such a magnificent city could be created and flourish briefly, only to vanish swiftly beneath the jungle, like some exotic flower of human endeavour.

Further north on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula are Mayan cities that survived until the Spanish Conquest in the 16th century. The Spanish did not know of Copan because it was hidden by the jungle, safe from the ravages of colonists and adventurers.

**How to get to Copan Ruinas:  
** Luxury buses run from Guatemala City (5 hours), Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula (3 hours) all of which have international airports. Some tour operators run minibuses from the popular resort towns of Antigua and Panajachel in the Guatamalan western highlands. Domestic bus services are plentiful and cheap.

Finding suitable accommodation in Copan should be no problem. There are a dozen up-market hotels, a few of midrange and ample backpacker and hospedaje-type places. Consult the Copan Ruinas website and your guide book. Stay a week and have a fantastic time! &&&

### Pyramids Compared

From time immemorial mankind has been obsessed with building huge structures for various reasons, especially religious ones, and also to show how clever they were and how advanced was the technology of their culture. Today, history repeats itself as modern sky scraper towers compete in height that dwarf the ancient stone pyramids of Egypt and Mesoamerica.

The Egyptians began it all some 4650 years ago, with the beginning of the Pyramid Age, lasting some 800 years, covering 2650 BC to 1850 BC of Egyptian history. This was a time of strong Pharaoh controlled central government of a combined Lower (deltaic) and Upper Nile region (south to first cataract), a distance of about 500 miles. The Pharaohs and citizens believed in life after death. It was important that each King was buried in a tomb enclosed within an impressive pyramid monument, with all the trappings needed for his soul to journey comfortably into the next world.

Today about 138 Egyptian pyramids are known with some being merely heaps of rubble and remnants of past glory. They are all found on the Western side of the narrow fertile valley of the Nile, and situated isolated on the adjacent hot arid desert plateau. Most famous and visited by tourists is the cluster of well preserved three large pyramids and three smaller stepped ones, as well as the Sphinx, at Giza, close to Cairo, the capital of Egypt.

The Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops) is the largest, measuring originally 146 metres high and 230 metres across the square base. Adjacent, is the pyramid of Khafre, noticeably showing an apex remnant facing of polished reflective white limestone. The third large pyramid in this cluster is that of Menkaure, half as tall. This site is considered to be a "Necropolis" with the pyramids being burial monuments, or being designed as a sort of "resurrection machine" for the Pharaohs to meet up with the Gods of the Heavens.

How do these wonderful Egyptian pyramids compare with those found in Mesoamerica and what are their differences?

Equally famous tourist wise are the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon located in the ancient Aztec city of Teotihuacan on the outskirts of Mexico City. The Pyramid of the Sun measures 222 meters across the square base and now is 71 meters tall, being built about 100 AD. Originally this stepped pyramid was painted a bright red on a lime plaster giving it a spectacular appearance. An imposing staircase of 248 steps allows tourists access to the summit platform where once existed a temple or alter, used by high priests to perform human sacrifices and other religious ceremonies.

The Pyramid of Moon is a tad smaller but of similar height, being linked to the Pyramid of the Sun by the Calzada de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead) some 650 meters away. The pyramids, plazas, temples and palaces make up the central feature of the ancient city of Teotihuacan, lying at an elevation of 2300 meters in Central Valley of Mexico. The Pyramid of the Moon was completed about AD 300. The ancient city of Teotihuacan spread over 20 sq km with a population estimated at 100,000 at its prime (ca 500 AD) making it then the largest city in the Americas. The city encountered economic and social problems leading to its decline and eventual collapse in the 7th century AD.

Given this synopsis of the Egyptian and Mesoamerican pyramids it is possible to point out their differences.

Importantly, they were built for different purposes, are of different design and are located in sites different with regard to the local populace.

The Egyptian pyramids were monuments containing the tombs of Pharaohs, or Kings and Queens with the idea of assisting their souls in moving on to an after life. The pyramids were often built as clusters (a Necropolis) quite away from civilization out on the desert plateau.

The Aztec and Mayan pyramids are different in the sense they were built as central features of a town or city, like later Europeans built cathedrals. Usually the large pyramids did not contain tombs of Kings, exceptions being the temple pyramid at Palenque in Chiapas State, and at Tikal, Guatemala.

There is a continuous architectural design of Mayan temples from flat sprawling one or two floor ones to those having a stepped pyramid shape to larger pyramids having stepped faces but always with the top truncated allowing space for a little temple or alter. Access to the top was by means of an imposing stairway on one or more sides of the pyramid. The purpose of this design was a religious one but different from the Egyptians. Religious ceremonies often involving human sacrifices were performed on top to appease their Gods, particularly the Sun God and the Rain God, to break a drought or ensue a forth coming plentiful harvest. Secondly, massive human sacrifices were sometimes performed on captured enemies. In a sense the large Aztec pyramids were a "fear machine" used for keeping the populace under control by the rulers.

The Great Egyptian pyramid was built by the stacking of limestone blocks averaging 2.5 tons in weight. This allowed for easy construction of internal passages and burial chambers which were lined with granite and basalt blocks. The Aztec and Mayan pyramids, or temple pyramids, were built from piles of rubble with an outer layer of limestone blocks or volcanic rock, hence they are mostly solid rock with few internal features.

The Pyramid of the Sun contains 3 million tons of rock material and was built without the aid of metal tools, pack animals or the wheel! Excavation of some temple pyramids has revealed a multistage construction whereby the steps of the original pyramid have been filled with rubble to expand its size and height, often done three or four times. The angle of slope is 32 degrees to the horizon compared to 52 degrees for the pointy Egyptian Great pyramid, which means that the Pyramid of the Sun is only half as high, but has the same base area. This is a necessary result of the different structural design.

Mayan and Toltec temple pyramids abound in the waterless limestone lowlands of the Yucatán Peninsula, where at Chichén Itzá is the wonderful example of "El Castillo" pyramid of multiple construction and 25 meters tall, built about 800 AD. It represents the Mayan calendar in stone. Further south in the tropical forests of Guatemala is the ancient city of Tikal having four temple pyramids of very steep design that poke up above the jungle canopy, the highest being Templo IV at 64 meters. Finally is the famous Mayan site at Copan Ruinas in Honduras where the temple pyramids and stairways are adorned with carvings and hieroglyphics recording the history of the region during the Classic Period (AD 250 to 900).

In summary, Egyptian pyramids are the steep pointy ones built as monuments to hold the tombs of Kings and Queens. The Mesoamerican pyramids were multipurpose, stepped temple-pyramids, usually more gently sloped and having an outer stairway to the top. &&&

Nicaragua  
 _La Tierra de Lagos y Volcanes_

Nicaragua is a land of lakes and volcanoes due it's location along the junction of two of the Earth's crustal plates, the Pacific Cocos plate and the Caribe plate. Every few years there is plate movement initiating an earthquake or volcanic eruption.

Are you up to the challenge of exploring Nicaragua? In all there are about fifty volcanoes of which seven are presently active or semi-active. It is a land of great natural beauty and biological diversity. Attracted are nature lovers, bird watchers, surfers, hikers plus tourists who appreciate the fine arts such as handicrafts, ceramics and a tropical cuisine.

Lago Nicaragua is the largest lake in Central America, measuring 160 kms long and 65 kms at its widest point. It is very shallow being 26 meters at its deepest point and is only 32 meters above sea level. It drains via the Rio San Juan into the Caribbean Sea. Its origin is tectonic or due to down warping of the Caribe geological plate.

Historically it was very important, for the lake allowed easy boat access by pirates from the Caribbean to attack the inland Spanish settlement of Granada. This low level crossing of Central America was popular with gold miners heading for the Californian gold rush. Plans are always afoot to construct a canal to rival the Panama Canal located further south

Volcanoes play an important role in the economy, scenery and tourism of Nicaragua. Rich fertile lowland soils have developed from weathering of the volcanic rocks which benefit the development of agriculture and forests. Volcanic rock quarries provide paving and building stones and special clays are used to make ceramics.

How to get around? Managua, the capital city (population ca. 1.1 million) has an International airport that caters for Central American flights, together with daily flights to Miami and Houston. The Tica Bus Service has daily air-conditioned buses traversing Central America, running from Chiapas, Mexico through to Panama and vice versa. There are two routes in Nicaragua with an overnight stop at Managua.

What weather to expect in Nicaragua? The capital Managua lies 12 degrees North of the Equator. The rainy season is June to October. The climate is tropical in the Pacific and Caribbean lowlands and cooler in the north central highlands which reach to 5000 feet altitude.

**Leon** city (population 145.000), once the nation's capital for 300 years, is really the political, ecclesiastic and cultural center of Nicaragua and has a fine university. Its churches, plazas, museums and historic past have much to offer the tourist.

Further south on the lake is **Granada** (population 85,000), which is the favored city for tourists. It is a fascinating historic town with a beautiful central plaza, having tall palm trees sheltering a line of colorful horse-drawn carriages awaiting to take you for a spin. They can carry four passengers and go off clip-clopping around town and to the shore of Lago Nicaragua a few kilometers away.

In Granada travel agents organize many excellent day tours to the countryside. One of the best tours is to see Masaya Volcano which is only about 20 kms away, close to the village of Masaya. First stop is at Masaya's Mercado Viejo where the world's finest hammocks are made. There is an amazing concentration of goods here for sale, including wicker baskets, hammocks, painted gourds, paintings, ceramics and jewelry! Tapices composed of woven straw canvases painted with Indian and village scenes are popular mementos for the tourist.

Next stop is Volcan Masaya National Park about 5 kms away. Five large craters are located around Volcan Masaya and Volcan Nindiri with many being semi-active, and steaming sulfurous fumes. A paved road ends at a car parking area on the edge of Santiago Crater of Volcan Masaya (632 meters altitude) where you get a fine view of the rugged and barren lava plains extending towards Masaya village.

The huge deep crater over a kilometer across is frightening, seemingly a sulfurous fuming gateway to hell, or so the 16th century Spanish colonists thought. They erected a conspicuous cross on the highest point of the crater rim hoping to exorcise the demons that lived below. The track leading upwards is now out-of-bounds to tourists, it being too dangerous. The pre-Hispanic Indians used the crater to sacrifice human victims to appease the Gods.

On the road to the mountain is a superb museum and visitors' center for the National Park where it is easy to spend a couple of hours. It is devoted to the volcanology of Nicaragua and includes wildlife and culture with some wonderful murals of Nicaraguan life in the past.

The Masaya tour includes a lunch stop at Apoya Crater Lake and Nature Reserve, a local beauty spot. It is an extinct volcanic explosion crater about 4 kms in diameter. Now it is filled with pristine waters and the walls are covered in lush tropical rain forest inhabited by exotic birds and howler monkeys.

The final stop is at the village of San Juan de Oriente to visit a small pottery establishment and sales outlet. Resident potter Miguel Angel demonstrates "throwing a pot" on a foot-operated wheel. You get to test the potter's wheel and inspect the kilns and finally the sales room, which is incredible for the quality of ceramic goods produced. Ceramics have been made at this spot for over 2000 years and 85% of the inhabitants are involved in pottery making. "Arte Precolombino" presents a fascinating display of elegant vases and pots with intricate colored designs many replicating Pre-Colombian artifacts. Specialties are smaller animal figurines, candle stick holders, salt and peppers and jewelry holders.

Another excellent day trip from Granada is to the summit of Volcan Mombacho (1345 meters) which is only 10 kms away. A road goes to the top! The volcano is the center of the Mombacho Cloud Forest Reserve which is a fine example of biodiversity. On the lower slopes are many coffee plantations. Higher up above 800 meters are dense cloud forests with exotic vegetation and bird life, with over 800 species of plant life. This transforms with altitude to dwarf trees and jagged summit rocks. Magnificent views of Granada and Lago Nicaragua are obtained from the top, cloud permitting.

What makes Nicaragua so attractive to tourists? The biodiversity is enormous, there being 78 Native Reserves home to a huge range of animals, birds and plants. Eco-lodges are strategically located for your enjoyment.

Beach lovers head for the great surf beaches all along the Caribbean and Pacific coasts. Special surf lodges cater for the tourist offering surf tours and packages. Handicrafts made by Nicaraguan artisans from fiber, leather, wood and ceramics have a wide appeal. Tropical woods are carved into bowls and utensils. Figurines of animals, birds and fishes are made from balsa wood and brightly painted. Tapices or tapestries of vegetable fibers are exquisite. There is a huge range of fine ceramics produced and intricately decorated. Hammocks and swinging chairs made from cotton and tropical woods are popular items bought by tourists.

Traditional Nicaraguan food includes the many tropical fruits and vegetables available, served with corn and rice dishes, including chicken, pork and beef. Europeans will have to get used to the national dish "Gallo Pinto", which is a fried up mixture of cooked rice and red beans often with a little cilantro, onion, garlic and capsicum. The name means "speckled rooster" due to its speckled appearance, and like tortillas, is served with most meals. Fresh water fish include the native bass which is usually fried and served with tomatoes and onions, as is the farmed tilapia.

In conclusion, Nicagarua is a politically stable country now well recovered from an unfortunate period of civil war, best forgotten. It is a successful democratic multiparty republic. Tourism and agriculture are the most important activities. Exports include coffee, cotton, tobacco, sugar and bananas.

The most important asset is the people, all 5.5 million, who are predominantly metizo, or mixed Indian and Spanish, or African origin. Nicaraguans are a happy and friendly lot. They love to show off their wonderful country to the tourist. &&&

**Further South  
** At home on my study wall is a large school map of the world. Often I would look at Central America and South America and remember all the exciting trips I had done. What annoyed me somewhat was the gap of countries I had not visited, namely Costa Rica and Panama, also little El Salvador. This I must remedy, I thought.

On my next trip I had a round-the-world ticket. It went Sydney – Los Angeles – San Antonio (Texas) -- gap -- Panama – Miami – Joburg (South Africa) – Perth – Sydney. The gap between Texas and Panama was where I travelled on land by bus through Central America, allowing three months. The first two months I travelled through Mexico with Chrissy who left for Australia from Merida in the Yucatan. The last month I travelled alone from Mexico to Panama by bus, successfully, without being robbed, arriving in time to catch my plane to Miami. Here are a few highlights on the way.

### Costa Rica and Panama

Along the spine of Central America runs the Tica bus service. It operates modern air-conditioned buses from the Mexican border at Tapachula, Mexico, to Panama City, and they have terminals in each Central American country. After a few days resting up in Granada, Nicaragua, I caught the Tica bus south to San Jose in Costa Rica. The central district of San Jose was a bit dodgy. I stayed two days at the Gran Imperial Hotel for $4/night. This was not my scene so I took a local bus to the countryside and the town of Fortuna.

Lonely Planet's description of Fortuna appealed to me as a "chillage' spot, or place to rest up awhile and assess the situation. I knew I could get to Panama City within two days by Tica bus and catch my plane, so I decided to spend a week at Fortuna. What to do there?

The big attraction at Fortuna is the active volcano Arenal of 1633 meters elevation, lying only 6 kilometers away. Its steep cone is bush clad around the base and vegetated up to the summit crater. Tourists come to watch spectacular eruptions at night time from the safety of nearby lodges and hotels, so my Guide book says. When I arrived, the mountain was hidden in cloud and only once exposed its fuming summit crater for a few hours, just to prove to me it still had some life left.

I found a friendly backpackers to stay at called La Posada Inn and walked to the nearby shops to buy some food and a bottle of rum. We global travellers sat on the front stoop in the evening smoking cigars and drinking, and solving the world's problems. The volcano seemed a wipe out as an attraction , so my attention was drawn to the forest and small streams of crystal-clear water that flowed from the cone. May be they held trout, I wondered. My collapsible fishing rod was ready to go and test the possibility.

Two Americans from Boston invited me to join them on a guided float trip the following afternoon. This involves floating down a river in a rubber dingy and watching all the bird and animal life on the way. "Yes please", I said. It was on the Rio Penas Blancas and took 3 hours. What a great way to spend an afternoon with camera ready to "shoot" the wild life. There were many birds, including egrets, cormorants, whistling ducks, turkey vultures, black vultures, plus howler monkeys, caiman and I noticed two sloths hanging upside down from an overhanging tree branch. "Wow", I thought. If they let go during their sleep they would land with a great splash in the river!" These are the two-toed  sloth of Central America. I always remember them because of their relative, the three-toed sloth of Brazil, called "AI" which is a very useful Scrabble word. It could well be onomatopoeic in origin. I suspect that when a sloth looses its grip and plummets to the ground (or river), it screams out aaaaaaaaaaaaaa... iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii before landing with a crash or splosh, as the case may be. The Safari float trip cost $38 and was very worthwhile and enjoyable.

Next day was cloudy with no volcano visible so I went off with Pete in his car to see _La Catarata de Fortuna_ which is a long narrow waterfall in a forested canyon about 5 kms away. It was a pleasant spot and I tried nymphing the stream for trout but none presented themselves. I walked back into town and rested on the stoop with a cold beer. I learnt from the manager that the place to fish was Laguna de Arenal on the other side of the mountain. This is a tourist area with many attractions like boating, fishing, horse riding and volcano watching. The lake is a hydroelectricity dam full of large rainbow bass. Fishing packages are $150/day all inclusive, but are not my sort of fishing.

Wearying of lovely Fortuna, I took the bus back to the capital San Jose and stayed again at the Imperial Hotel. Better the devil you know, than don't know. Once upon a time it was a plush multi-story hotel now partly turned into noisy cheap backpacker hostel. The cultural wonders of San Jose were carefully visited. I was glad to move on by Tica bus to Panama and stop at the first major city of David, for a purpose. I still had a few days to fill in so I opted for a stopover in the mountains at **Boquete,** a nice little village located 1060 meters up the side of another volano. I found Pension Topaz to stay at. It advertised _"Cuartos con Vista al Volcan"_ for $10 - $35, swimming pool, horse riding, ecoturismo, bicycles to rent, and with rich breakfast available. It was just what I wanted . A very enjoyable stay it was too.

Dominating the skyline is Volcan Baru rising to 3475 meters, almost as high as snowy and icy Mt Cook in New Zealand at latitude 43 degrees south. Here in Panama close to the equator at 9 degrees north the volcano is covered in vegetation with a base of tropical rain forest. A steep hiking trail leads to the summit from which sprouts some telecommunication masts. At the top you can view both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. This dormant volcano lies close to the border with Costa Rica and forms part of two National Parks. The _Parque Internacional La Amistad_ stretches across the border and provides access for walking trails though lush rainforest.

I sat in the plaza of Boquete admiring the view. A friendly Afro-American comes up and introduces himself as Richard. He has a "pickup" (4x4 van). He takes me to see his orange plantation. He informs me they are Naval oranges with no pips. The harvest is from November to January by Indians who get paid $5 to $6 per day. There are other fruit trees , lemon and apple, feed with water from an _aquaducto._ Richard Livingston gave me his tourist brochure. Any voyages were possible with him as guide, from Baru summit to the deepest rain forest. Visits to hot springs, trout fishing, bass fishing, ocean fishing, hieroglyphics, Indian villages, quetzal birds, sunrise, sunset, you name it, plus apartment and camping accommodation were available. "Wow! what an entrepreneur!" I thought.

Richard took me to see coffee beans being processed at his Café Ruiz where we drank coffee flavoured with cinnamon. _"Mi jardin es su jardin"_ says Richard.

Later we visited a small dam where I tried spin fishing for rainbow bass and blue gills. So I had a happy time in Boquete, all starting from sitting on a park bench wondering what to do.

Time had come to move on to Panama City. Reluctantly I left Boquete behind and travelled by Tica bus to the end of the road in Central America. Next day I boarded the plane for Miami. This flight took longer than expected since from Miami I was sent to London to join an SAA plane going to Joburg. So I enjoyed an extra day of pampering and gin and tonics before landing in South Africa. At Joburg I was whisked away to the Rockey Street backpackers to start another adventure. &&&

###  Conclusions

To travel happily in a foreign country you have to want to be there for reason of absorbing the culture and language. It is a learning experience and ideally one should take one's time about it. Not everybody can do this because of limited time and money. I have been fortunate in that for many years I have gone to Central or South America and travelled for 3 months or more, starting at point A and exiting at point B, and making things up as I go along, with the help of Lonely Planet guide books.

It is a great help to have interests to follow in the new country that you are exploring. In my case, being a retired geologist (60+) naturally I know about rocks and minerals and how landscapes are formed, which explains my interest in the mighty Andes mountain chain and of the many active volcanoes found from Mexico to Chile. Also I am a gemologist and gem cutter and maker of jewellery so this expands my interest to the craft people selling their wares in plazas and market places. Also, I always carry a collapsible fishing rod which I can bring forth to catch a fish if I stop near a suitable lake or river. Fishing is a great way to meet up with the local people.

Women travellers and companions have different interests and priorities to men. They are usually better at languages and communication with the locals. Shopping includes fabrics, weavings, crafts, baby clothes for grandchildren, visits to churches and going to weddings and festivities. Sketching landscapes and village scenes with crayon and pencil is a frequent hobby which I was enticed to try, but mostly I relied on a camera to record travels.

Some readers may wonder why I stay at _el cheapo_ places in Latin America. Well, I shall explain. Most travellers have limited money or travel on a budget. If you stay at inexpensive guest houses or hotels, say at $20 per night per person, instead of $100, then you are saving $80 per night, which you can then put towards paying for a special touristy day tours costing $40 to $100 or so, now and then. Also, in the cheaper accommodation you will get to meet more interesting people, like the hostel managers, landladies and fellow backpackers, and so acquire much useful travel information. If you stay at the Hilton you will probably not learn much.

Alternatively, you may travel by means of an organized tour of the country. This is a "no worries" way of travel since the route and good accommodation of 4 to 5 star category is already arranged and you travel in your own luxury bus. Evening outings to a restaurant, night clubs, musical shows are made for your group of maybe 30 travellers. Such tours of 10 to 20 days have their attractions for the senior traveller. It is a good way to get a taste of a country. If you like it you can return and take your time roaming around the regions of special interest.

###

**Some useful Travel and Tour Websites for Central & Latin America  
**www.visitmexico.com Tourist information for Mexico **  
**www.adogl.com.mx ADO luxury bus service for Mexico  
www.ticabus.com/eng/ International bus and tours, Mexico to Panama  
www.enjoyguatemala.com What to do in Guatemala  
www.jademaya.com Jades SA sales outlet for Guatemalan jadeite in Antigua  
www.vianica.com Bus. hotels and activity for Nicaragua  
www.tourism.co.cr Costa Rica tourism information  
www.panamainfo.com #1 Travel Guide for Panama

**BIO:  
** Allan Taylor (Allano) is a travel writer and blogger. He was born and grew up in New Zealand where he graduated from Otago and Victoria Universities, majoring in chemistry, geology and economics. Later he completed a PhD degree in geochemisty at Penn State University, USA. He is a Fellow of the Gemmological Society of Great Britain. Hobbies, past and present include, include trout fishing, gem cutting and gem collecting, jewellery making, food and cookery, politics and travel.

Other travel ebooks by Allano:  
Backpackers' Fishing Guide to the Andes  
In Preparation: **Allano's Travels in Chile and Argentina**

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