First thing we want to do is remove the
oil fill cap. That's going to help the
crankcase vent properly when draining
our engine oil. After that, using a fourteen
millimeter socket we'll remove the drain
bolt and let the engine oil drain
completely. While it's draining, take the
time to inspect the crush washer on the
bolt. Inspect it for any damage or if
it's missing. If so, you'll want to
replace it to prevent any future leaks.
Now we'll reinstall the drain bolt and
torque it to eleven foot-pounds.
Using an eight millimeter socket, we'll
remove the two bolts holding the oil
filter cap in place. And you want to remove
the cap, make sure you get a hold of the
spring because it'll just fall out of
place. To help it stick, we'll put a light
dab of grease on the end of the spring--
that'll hold it to the side of the crank
case. And when we install our new filter
we'll want to install it with the black
grommet facing out. And then reinstall
our cap and snug our two bolts down. You
don't want to over tighten these, just
good and snug as all you want. Now it's
time to fill the engine with oil.
Kawasaki recommends using a 10w40
motorcycle oil, and this unit holds just
under one and a half quarts.
Now, remove the funnel, reinstall our
fill cap. And now we're gonna start the
engine up, let it idle for a few moments,
that's going to get the oil good and
circulated through the system properly.
After it's set for a little bit then
we'll shut the engine off and let it sit
for a few more moments. That's going to
help us achieve an accurate oil level
reading.
Now let's look at our site glass. We want
our oil level to between the lower and
upper portions of the site window. As you
can tell, this looks perfect,
so let's hit the trails guys.
