Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to walk you through the process
of changing the front differential as well
as the rear final drive oil in our 2007 Yamaha
Grizzly YFM700.
Pretty easy to do, let's head over to the
bench, talk about the tools and the oil we're
going to need to pull this off.
This is going to be a very simple skill level
one, also with a short tool list.
All you're going to need is a torque wrench,
3/8th ratchet and an extension, probably going
to need a swivel, a 21mm socket, a 5 and a
6mm Allen.
Now, if you would, reference our exploded
parts diagrams.
That's gonna give you an exact picture of
where everything is located on your machine.
Now if you're having a little bit of trouble
getting all of the parts together that you
need, we already have a list compiled down
in the description below.
Hit that link, bam.
There's your whole list.
So, once you have your tools and your parts
together, we can go over there and knock it
out.
So let's go.
Alright guys, what we're after is the fill
nut.
It's a 21mm up toward the top, a little bit
awkward to get to.
I'm going to use an extension with a swivel
so I can reach in there and hopefully grab
it.
Once we get it pulled, then we're going to
go below with a 5mm Allen and drain it.
So the question is how often do you need to
do this?
Well, it's actually on the same interval as
your engine oil change, so that's every 3200
miles or one year.
So, you want to make sure you do both the
front and the back and the engine oil change
all at the same time.
Keep it at an even rotation.
Alright, that's our fill.
It's still got a washer on it, so we're good
to go there.
Now, want to reach up under the bottom.
There's a little cutout-- a little bit off
center-- where that drain plug's going to
be.
There we go.
Now granted, my oil looks really good coming
out of this machine.
Obviously it had been changed recently, but
yours may not have.
So you want to pay attention to it.
If it's anything other than just a dark color,
if it has a milky white kind of look to it?
That means you probably have water intrusion
and you would need to look at your seals on
your differential.
Alright, I think she's through draining for
the most part.
Let's go ahead and pop this back in there.
Then we're going to grab some fluid and fill
her back up.
Alright, I've just got it snugged, we're going
to grab our torque wrench and put the torque
on it to seven foot-pounds.
There we go.
Now, let's get our fluid and get it filled
back up.
The best way to do this is to use a pump.
I prefer to use a hand pump, and what I'm
actually using is one made by MerCruiser that
really fits well with this particular bottle
that I'm using.
If you're in need of one, you can slide over
to our sister site called Boats.net and pick
one up.
And the oil we're putting in it is at least
an 80-weight, a GL4 hypoid specification.
The one I'm actually using is a gear oil made
by Kawasaki.
Get it pushed in a little bit and start filling
her up.
It doesn't hold a whole lot, maybe a quarter
of what's in this quart.
And we want to fill it up til it starts to
run out.
There it goes.
Go ahead and get it out.
Get our fill plug back in there.
Now we want to torque this one to 17 foot-pounds.
That'll do, now we just need to head to the
back and do the same procedure.
Okay, so we're at the back of the machine,
you have a 21mm for the fill plug up top,
but it's actually 6mm Allen down below.
Still has the crush washer, so we're good.
Now let's get the drain plug out.
There she goes.
Once again, the fluid looks pretty good, but
now's the time you really want to pay attention
to make sure yours doesn't look milky, because
like I said up front, if it has that milky
look to it, that means water's getting into
the system.
You need to flush that out and then find out
how it got in there.
Probably one of the seals.
If you let it run too long you're going to
score up your gears and destroy your differential
and/or your final drive in the back and you
don't want to do that.
Alright, looks like it's through.
Let's go ahead and get our drain plug back
in place.
Now we're going to set its torque to seven.
Now, let's just fill it up.
Now, what you do not do on this particular
unit is fill it up all the way to the fill
plug.
There’s actually a check bolt right here
that you need to take out and we just fill
it until it starts running out of there and
then it is full.
This is a simple procedure to do, but one
that most people overlook.
Don't be one of those people because when
things go wrong with that front diff or this
final drive?
It's usually really expensive.
So just remember whenever you're changing
your engine oil, go ahead and take care of
your gear cases as well.
And on that note, if you need help changing
your engine oil, why don't you go to the link
in the description.
It'll take you to the video and it'll guide
you through the process.
Alright, it’s starting to run out, so all
we need to do is put in that check bolt.
Let’s go ahead and take this one to seven
foot-pounds.
Go ahead and get our fill plug back in.
And we're going to take this to 17 foot-pounds.
Well alright guys, that wraps this one up.
Really simple to do.
Listen, if you need any parts for your machine,
why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, leave
them in the section below and I'll do my best
to answer them.
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Til next time we just want to say thank you
and we will see you in the next video.
Have a great day.
