Hello everyone!This is PatternCos,
pattern making for creators, and I'm Andrea
Lopez, founder of the online pattern making
academy PatternCos.com.
In today's video we're seeing how to 
make the pattern for a double circular
skirt, which is a circular skirt 
with plenty of flight. But before that,
just reminding you that for 10€/month
you can access the
online academy where you have
lots of classes about s,
pattern transformationinner structure, finishings...
many things for you to learn or improve your pattern making
from home, at your own pace, however you want. I'll show you two
special projects we've made for 
september, which are these two
dresses, replicas of fashion runway
designs. We've seen the complete
prototype creation process.
Said all this, let's continue with today's video.
A double circular skirt is
basically the same a a simple circular skirt or
a half circular one, which we've already seen
on the channel, but it just has more
flight.
The half circular, would be half of a
circle, the circular one which is a full
circle, and the double circular which is two
full circles. At first Ithought the topic 
was clearly understood but,
as you've already asked me several times 
about how to make this kind of skirt
We're going to see it. Iwill also take the chance because it's a kind of skirt Ihave in
several cosplay patterns at the store, and when seeing the pattern you
doubt how many pieces there are or how to place
the pattern, so let's get to it
The measurement we need for this skirt is the waist
contour, as long as we want it to go on the waist.
So, we measure the contour with the measuring tape, don't tighten the
tape, leave some slack so there's at least 1
centimeter or two extra contour for the garment breathes a bit from the
skin. You'll also decide on the length, but that will depend on the
design, whatever you want. I'll make it on paper, for a fabric it would be the same.
we'd fold the fabric in half for the selvedges to be in touch
and then we'd fold it again in half
Where we have the double corner folded
is where we'll draw the double circular skirt circumference
Think that we should end with two circles, the skirt will end up being two
circles.
So, the waist contour
will be divided by 12 and that will be the radius
The result of the operation
We'll place that measurement here to
make the small circumference, using the tape as a compass.
Think that to make a half circular skirt
we fold the waist
contour by three and we get half a circle
To make a circular
skirt we divide the waist by 6 and we get a circle
so, for a skirt in which we need two circles we divide by twice,
by 12, for the waist to be in two circles
measure that contour.
I've gotten 5 centimeters. In total
the waist of the mannequin I'm using is of 38 centimeters
If this is measures 5, we multiply by 4, which is the number of times
it's folded and Iget 20 cm.
If the waist total is 38 cm
and we need two circles, this would measure 40 cm for the waist in total
The waist was 38 cm, so each circle should measure half of it, 19cm.
So, it looks that we'd have an extra centimeter related to
what we calculated, but we should have 2 extra centimeters to be
used as seam allowance. So, as we need one more centimeter I'm
making the circumference contour a bit bigger
to adjust it to that measurement.
Now the circle measures what it should.
The complete circle will measure 21 cm.
Add seam allowances
and cut the centre
From the contour line we'll have to measure as if using a
compass the length of the skirt
I'll make it 25 cm. Remember I'm
working on a scaled dressing form
That's why the measurements are so small
Add the seam allowance of 1 cm, the hem as you like.
Notice that although I'm doing it by eye it matches 1 cm because of
the times I've added it, I know it by heart
And we cut with all the paper folded
Unfold and you'll see we have the circle
Now, using one of the folds, which are
either following the grain line or the crosswise grainline (weft).
Now we'll
choose one of them to be the opening
because as we're putting two circles together we need to open this one
to sew it by the sides, sewing the zip, all that.
Now you'll see why we needed the contour to measure
two more centimeters. Because on this opening
we need it to have it's seam allowance for when we sew it
to the other circle.
So, now the seam allowance would be added to the
skirt itself.
Lastly, you could do the waistband, which is no more than a rectangle
with a width equal to the waist contour, which was 38, and the height you want. I'm choosing
a 3 cm heigh, well, I'm putting 6 so Ican fold it in half
so it is cleanly finished both on the inner and outer sides.
You can add a notch in the middle so you can align
the notch to the side seam and the other sides ends
with the other seam with the zip.
We'll pass all this to fabric. The waistband will be cut once and the
circles will be cut twice. We need two circles.
I won't extend too much on the sewing part of the waistband
because Ialready have a video explaining how to sew waistbands. You can find the
link in the description box, and then you also have vieos about
sewing different types of zips, about finishing
curved bottoms... although I'll explain one that's featured in that video.
Grab both circles and place them right to right. Where the
opening is, on one side we're fully sewing it by seam allowance
from top to bottom. And on the other side we'll sew the zip
So, when cuttin, mark the zip end notch
and choose if you want a visible zip or a hidden one. As mentioned,
you can find several zips sewing videos
So, place the zip and sew the rest of the seam by seam allowance
You can use an overlocked seam, a french seam. It's the same,
it all depends on the finishings you want to use.
I'm not sewing the zip. Just imagine I've already sewn it
it's just for you to see the skirt construction
For the waistband, if the fabric is marked with the iron you can
fold in in half and the seam allowance of the waist line
can also be sewn to the inside and fix its position with the iron
so it will be easier to sew later.
To face the bottom I'm grabing a bias tape. first I'm
placing it normally, sew one of the flaps and then I'll turn it to the inside
twice, for it to look like a hem
So, we start on the right side, open the flap, pass a backstitch
by the folding mark.
Turn it around to have the inside facing you, fold the bias tape in half and
fold it again on the seam line, as if doing
a double hem.
It will also be thinner this way.
A double circular skirt has a more accented curve and if we do
the hem too wide it will make it more difficult for us to do it
without wrinkles nor having excess fabric.
And, as already mentioned, we'd only be missing sewing the waistband
You have a link about sewing waistbands, one way of sewing them,
there are several of them, in the description box. Basically,
it's placing it as a sandwich or as explained in the video.
With that we'd have our double circular skirt done
And Ihope it was also useful to understand all this flight thing,
how to make it have more or less flight, in case you want to play with it a bit more in
another skirt, another design.
Here ends today's class, if you liked it you know you can subscribe to the channel,
like it or share it. Down in the description box you have all my social networks.
See you in the next video!
