

Italy,Egypt,Turkey,

Oh My!

Alexander County Abroad

_By Rick D. Jolly_

Other Alexander County Abroad Titles

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Introduction

We are Samantha and Rick Jolly, two American expats living in the United Arab Emirates. Enjoying life abroad as we travel around Europe on holidays and weekends. In this installment of Alexander Co. Abroad series, we travel to Italy, Egypt, and Turkey. Follow us as we first explore Venice and Rome for the first time as newbie travelers with little understanding of what to expect in Italy or traveling abroad. Our next trip included Cairo and Luxor for an eye-opening experience in foreign domestic affairs and the modern standard of living for many Egyptians. Visiting the Great Pyramids in Cairo and Karnak Temple in Luxor were inspirational and humbling at the same time. We then ended and started the New Year in Turkey, discovering the rich history of the ancient city known as Ephesus before exploring the marvelous city of Constantinople, once the capital of the Roman Empire, known today as Istanbul.

### Exploring Italy

One of the biggest factors for moving overseas was the ability to travel abroad and see even more of the world we live in. The bucket list was long and growing as new friend's gabbed about recent trips and posted stunning pictures online. The only question was where to go first. We each made a must see list and Italy was at the top of both of them. For me it was the Roman history while Samantha dreamed of Tuscany landscapes. Neither one of us really knew anything about Italy so we started looking at flights to and from multiple destinations. The fact we would be there during New Year's affected our decision somewhat. We wanted to be near fireworks and excitement so of course Rome came to mind. With the winter weather Tuscany seemed out of place better saved for a future trip in warmer weather. In the end cheap flights from Dubai to Venice settled the debate. So we would fly into Venice and take a train to Rome before flying back to the U.A.E. during our 8 day vacation.

Something new to us was airport lounges or more accurately access to VIP lounges. We've all seen the lounges with closed doors and world travelers enjoying food and drinks before boarding the plane. I rarely had time to enjoy such luxury, just making most of my flights with no time to spare. Samantha was issued a credit card as part of her salary package that allowed access to several airport lounges in GCC countries. The upgrade didn't cost us anything to use but made flying much more enjoyable. We had real incentive to get to the airport early so we could enjoy free adult beverages and buffet style foods as other passenger's payed inflated prices for subpar service or sat waiting on stiff benches. Feeling privileged as we enjoyed plush seating with a waiting staff happy to see us and glad to serve, well at least they acted that way. A lounge just makes traveling so much better.

### Chapter 1

### Venice

Samantha, being a nervous flyer, preferred sitting away from the window allowing me full access during the 7 hour daytime flight. I took pictures from the time we departed the U.A.E. until the wheels touched the ground in Italy, snapping photos of Dubai as we flew out over the Persian Gulf and the constantly changing landscape far below. After passing the Persian Gulf I was amazed by the many different types of terrains we flew over. The dry mountainous landscapes gave way to snow covered peaks with flowing rivers void of human occupation. Soon a new coastline dotted with dozens and dozens of tiny islands full of houses appeared in the horizon. Viewing the world from this height made me feel small and irrelevant wondering why mankind believes the world belongs to us when we belong to the world.

View of Venice while landing (Above)

Landing in Marco Polo airport went smooth as we eased through customs and grabbed our luggage before a short bus ride to Venice. The airport and bus had very few people, but Venice was packed with vacationing Italians. Our hotel, the Continental, was a short walk from the bus stop, over Constitution Bridge and past Santa Luca train station on the Grand Canal. The 15th century building was very charming and the staff well managed and attentive. There was an elevator big enough for 2 people minus any luggage, so we used the stairs since our room was on the second floor. Our well decorated and spacious room had a nice view of the Grand Canal. European spacious means small by American standards, but more than we really needed. The bathroom was about half the size of the bedroom which was great except for the odd tub without a curtain. The handheld sprayer made it difficult not to get the floor wet since it sat on top of the faucet spraying water at my shins with nowhere to hang it. To make it worse the faucet was placed in the middle of the tub making it feel unnatural to stand normally, but at least we had a shower in a hotel in Venice, Italy.

View of the Grand Canal from our hotel room window (Above)

We wandered around the city enjoying the cool air and rainy conditions, because after spending 4 months in the hot desert it actually felt nice. Well it did at first and then Samantha got cold and wanted to head indoors. I walked her back to the room and kept on walking and exploring the wonderful floating city of Venice. I was too excited and wanted to see more and hear more and feel more of this historical place.

Once only a place found in books and movies, but now a surreal reality as I walked down one canal and then another before making my way through several narrow dark lit alleys. The sounds of people talking and music playing pulled me further into the center of the city as I discovered large open courtyards and grand churches. Imagining the city looked similar hundreds of years ago when Marco Polo, Leonardo da Vinci, Casanova, and countless Renaissance Artists roamed the same streets. We know the stories that have been told, but imagine the stories only the city could tell. As midnight approached I headed back to check on Samantha and prepare for the next day.

The streets of Venice at night (Above)

The weather had cleared and the sun shined the next morning as we made our way down the Giudecca Canal on the way to St. Mark's Square. Circling the island by boat we made our way around the large cruise ship ports for a fantastic view of the Giudecca Islands before arriving near St. Mark's Square. Walking around at 10am the crowds weren't too bad as we explored the Doges Palace and St. Mark's Basilica. Hopping in line for the bell tower just before the large crowds overwhelmed the entire square. The bell tower was my favorite part of the square with its jaw dropping panoramic views of the city. The ringing of the bell from the 5 hundred year old Clock tower drew a large crowd and signaling our time to explore other places in the city.

View of Giudecca Islands from a Vaporetto (Above)

We wandered the streets and canals stopping for a tasty lunch near the Rialto Bridge before boarding a Vaporetto (water bus) for a scenic view of the Grand Canal. The boat was very crowded, but we managed to find a good spot with unobstructed views of the wonderful buildings lining the waterway. Hopping off near our hotel, I led Samantha to some of the old Churches and Court Yards I found the night before. We walked around till dark before retreating back to our little street in Venice for a nice dinner and nightcap.

Luckily we didn't experience any tidal flooding during our visit to Venice allowing us to come and go as we pleased. High tides combined with the continual sinking ground has resulted in repeated flooding during the winter months causing the local government to use platforms as a way to keep shoppers dry. The rising water flows through the sewer and water drainage systems contaminating the streets with sewage. A tidal sea gate is under construction that may solve the persistent flooding problem once and for all when it's completed. It would be heartbreaking to lose such an important historical city, but Venice has had a very good run and nothing can last forever.

Looking toward St. Mark's square as our boat docked (Above)

We spent several more days exploring Venice by foot and boat, just enjoying the views and vibe of the city. While not the cheapest city to visit we shared meals and compared prices to stay on budget. Just walking around and exploring the city was free and with the Vaporetto pass we could cover the entire city. I believe we could live in Venice and never grow tired of all it has to offer, but Rome was calling us to explore the ancient ruins of the Roman Empire.

Sunny day in Venice with great views from the Campanile bell tower (Above/Below)

### Travel by Train

Traveling with only rollie carry-on luggage made walking to the train station easy, but limited us on clothes and souvenir space. We decided to use the smaller bags after watching Rick Steves, but I bet he doesn't have to worry about dirty laundry or keepsakes on his travels. Rick had suggested when traveling to more than one destination or by train, travelers should pack light. He was right about the mobility part, but we were on a budget and washed our clothes in the shower and dried them on the towel racks and radiators to save money. The cooler temperatures kept us from getting too sweaty even after several days of constant walking, which helped a lot. Except for the old coal burning locomotive at Tweetsie Railroad in Blowing Rock N.C. this was our first real train ride ever.

Having bought the tickets after arriving in Venice we didn't know what to expect or how early to be at the station. We decided on an hour buffer that was about 45 minutes too long. The Santa Luca train station is small and busy with open but covered platforms for boarding the trains. The station was filled with different shops and restaurants with slightly inflated prices for the onsite convenience. Splitting a piece of pizza and a gelato we patiently waited with the masses that covered the floor with luggage and bodies. Young backpackers from around the world sat in large groups, either in deep discussion or fast asleep.

We couldn't believe how easy it was to travel by train. There were digital information boards listing arrivals and departures much like the ones in an airport. Just find your train number with the correct departure time on the board and go to the listed platform. No customs, no long lines, no check-in baggage fees, just get on the train, find your seat and go to your destination. It was such a drastic change from the airports I felt like we did something wrong or illegal. The dreaded anxiety caused by the airport security measures and painfully slow lines were replaced by easy going attitudes and quick train departures. Traveling first class gave us 2 window seats facing each other with a small table to share. This gave Samantha the option to always look forward as the train switched directions at some terminals. I didn't mind switching seats and always riding backwards if it kept her from getting nauseas.

Santa Lucia train station (Above)

I was hoping to see some Italian countryside on the way to Rome, but I think we saw more black tunnels than picturesque scenery. The tunnels made it more challenging but didn't stop me from taking pictures as I made-up a game to help pass the time. Riding backwards didn't help much either, but it was all part of the challenge. The 4 hour train ride passed quickly as we stopped in Florence before arriving in Rome. Nether city looked appealing from the train station, but to be honest Rome looked like a ghetto. Most of the buildings and track retainer walls were marred with graffiti and trash that amplified the decay of the cities infrastructure. Samantha's facial expression said a thousand words when I asked what she thought of Roma. She asked if this was the right place, hoping it wasn't. But, it was in fact our stop as I led the way toward the subway. It was getting late I wanted to find the hotel before it got dark.

### Chapter 2

### Rome

Once inside the station everything looked normal and safe from the urban jungle outside. Rome Termini station was much larger than Venice Santa Lucia station making it a little harder to navigate on our first visit. We made it to the subway, but had a hard time using the ticket machine. I think it required a card with an embedded security chip and ours didn't have one or we just weren't doing something right. After some stress induced arguing we found a live person who took our cash for 2 metro passes. Ah, the joys of traveling with an uptight person. Samantha wanted me to have all the answers and know how to get from A to B without any hiccups. I liked not knowing what to do and enjoyed the experience of discovering something new for the first time. No matter how many times I explained to her why the trip is sometimes better than the destination, it didn't sink in. I found it difficult to get her into the "enjoy the moment" mindset.

One of the many graffitied subway cars in Rome (Above)

To make matters worse I got turned around once we got to our stop for the hotel. We got off at the right subway stop, but exited to the wrong street. Nothing looked familiar or matched my printout. We walked across the road toward what I thought might be the right way, but stopped as the street was full of not so nice looking people. Heading in the opposite direction we tried asking for directions, but nobody had heard of our Hotel. We tried calling the hotel, but our cell phone wouldn't dial out. It had worked in Venice but not in Rome. To our relief Rome still had payphones, what luck right! But the instructions were in Italian and we were anxious so after several attempts we gave up on the payphones.

It was starting to get dark as several different people sent us on wild goose chases, I think for their own twisted pleasure. Samantha was flipping out and I was running out of ideas. It was the right area and the right subway stop but no hotel, nothing made sense. We walked for over an hour before I suggested we take a break and grab a bite to eat. I just wanted to get Samantha someplace safe so I could walk around and find the damn hotel. This part of the trip was starting to suck and I really wanted to kick myself in the ass for getting us lost. We walked inside a little cafeteria style restaurant run by a mother and daughter team near our subway stop. The food was good and cheap, lifting the mood of our current predicament. The mother noticed we seemed agitated and asked if we needed some help. I explained our troubles and without batting an eye she pointed in the direction we first started walking and said it's about a five minute walk past the McDonalds on the corner. Relieved and doubtful at the same time, we walked back in the direction of the not so nice looking people and down the street to the McDonalds. As we turned the corner the hotel sign was staring us straight in the face. So we were ten minutes from our hotel the whole time. At least we found a nice cheap restaurant near our hotel. It was definitely time to relax with some vino.

The Aurelius hotel was a small but quaint 4 star hotel away from the main attractions in Rome, giving us some quiet time at night. I liked the look of the place and smiled when I saw a statue of the Capitoline Wolf; it depicts a she-wolf nourishing two human infants, the founder of Rome Romulus and his twin brother Remus. The receptionist was so nice and went out of her way to make us feel welcome. After we got settled in the room I walked next door to a small store for a bottle of wine. It was such a drastic change coming from a Muslim country where alcohol consumption is closely regulated by the government. The little store was full of different types of wine and liquors at very reasonable prices.

Returning to the hotel I asked for a bottle opener. The receptionist handed me 2 wine glasses, a bottle opener, and a small bag of ice. She said I hope you enjoy your first night in Rome. This was more like it. It's amazing how a little kindness and generosity can turn things around in a fast way. We went from hating on Rome to this ain't so bad after all in the blink of an eye. Settling in to our cozy room we messaged family and friends letting them know we made it and brag a little. I only knew a handful of people that had travelled to Italy so it was kind of a big deal to us. I should've planned a better itinerary or used a tour guide for our first time in Rome, but we did ok for a couple of newbie travelers. After a few glasses of wine the sandman came to tuck us in as dreams of chariots raced in our heads.

The rainy streets of Rome (Above)
Chapter 3

### The Vatican

Walking toward St. Peters Cathedral (Above)

The next morning while eating breakfast rain slowly covered the streets. Rome was being rude this morning but we came prepared and broke out the umbrellas as we headed to the Vatican. To our surprise the Vatican already had a 3 to 4 hour wait with the line wrapping around the building and down the street. Because of the rain we knew people would flock to all the indoor attractions, but this was ridiculous. Thinking most people would be home with family and friends during the Christmas holiday was just naive on my part. Of course people would be at the fricking Vatican on one of the most sacred Christian holidays of the year. Hell whole families were there, all the way down to distant cousins and close neighbors. We had read not to trust the personal tour guides on some online posts, but standing in the rain for 4 hours was not going to happen. I talked to several solicitors and chose the one offering the quickest entry.

We didn't care if the guide spoke English or not, we just wanted in. The tour guide waited about 20 minutes trying to hustle as many people as possible before proceeding. Large umbrellas weren't allowed in the Vatican so several of us stored them in a nearby office. Then we just walked right pass several hundred people and waited in a short line for tour guide groups. It took about 10 minutes of standing in the rain and we were inside with what looked like the rest of Rome. Everyone was mushed together like a can of sardines. Our tour guide communicated with headsets and a colored flag as she herded us from one packed room to the next before directing the group briefly back outside in the rain for a view of a courtyard. I knew we should've bought ponchos. Luckily a nice couple shared their small umbrella with Samantha as I took photos in the rain.

The tour guide was insightful but focused on what she liked and less on the more popular art works, well in my opinion anyway. I understood why she hurried us along and wondered how many tours she did in a day. Getting a decent shot was tricky with all the people vying for space and I often fell behind the group and out of radio range.

The endless crowds in the Vatican on a rainy day in Rome (Above)

Slowly making our way to the Sistine Chapel (Above)

We eventually made it to the Sistine Chapel moving around like a push puzzle as everyone wanted a closer look at the opposite side of the room they were standing. The security guards barked "no photos" and ushered us to be silent as this was a place of worship. I found the priceless artworks underwhelming. Now, it may have been the over crowed visit or the fact the Church traded the visual rights of the Sistine Chapel in exchange for a full painting restoration from the Nippon TV Network Corp. of Japan. The restrictions have expired over time but the photo ban is still enforced by the Vatican. It may have been seeing firsthand how the church squandered millions of dollars for selfish embellishments. Maybe I'm just not a lover of priceless art. On the other hand I do have the utmost respect for all the Artists who spent years making the artwork and became an instant fan of Michelangelo for his rebellious nature. If the church hadn't over indulged in sponsoring these elaborate look at me trophies we wouldn't be able to view them today. We have millionaires and billionaires that build massive buildings and unbelievable homes, but I doubt any of them will match the time tested creations of past generations. The raw materials and master level skills have been replaced by newer and perceived better resources and techniques.

St. Peter's Basilica was truly awe-inspiring with its massive scale and detailed works. This surely showed would be Christians god was real, inspiring centuries of worship. My oh my, how the times have changed. I wonder how many more years the church can persuade people salvation can be had for the right price? Only time will tell I guess. After several hours we grew tired of the relentless crowds and somewhat gaudy over indulgence of the Catholic Church, returning once again to the rainy streets of Rome. The little office holding our umbrella was locked with no one in sight. We waited for a while before abandoning it in favor of a poncho purchase from a desperate street vender.

We didn't really have a plan as much as a let's see what happens next mindset as we strolled through the city in search of something interesting. You can throw a rock and hit ancient ruins in Rome, but we ventured inside giving our wet feet a much needed break from the rain. Shopping is always a good way to keep the rain at bay so we looked for trinkets and whatnots hoping to find affordable treasures.

Somehow we missed lunch and settled for an early dinner at a nearly deserted American themed bar. A cross between Cheers and Chili's ran by 2 tattooed hotties with thick Russian accents. Not Samantha's first choice but a nice break from pasta for me. It was nice to relax in a familiar setting and be able to actually read the menu without guessing what to order. We headed back to the Aurelius hotel for a break as we changed into some dry clothes. The receptionist gave us several options for the upcoming New Year's celebrations and we ventured back out into the now night life of Rome.

This time we knew where we were and felt more confident about exploring dim lit alleys with not so nice looking people. The streets were alive with all types of people from all over the world. We were surprised by the number of people from Southwestern Asia. Spending time with people from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh in the U.A.E. made it easy to pick out certain accents from the many different vendors we encountered in Rome. We would start-up conversations with these people and always got the same response when they learned where we lived. They would first be surprised 2 Americans lived in Abu Dhabi and secondly remark "it's too hot to live there ". Well tell us something we don't know. Calling it a night before the stroke of midnight felt wrong, but when in Rome go to bed with the old people and get up early to see everything you can was our moto.

The grand spectacle of St. Peter's Basilica (Above)
Chapter 4

### Forum and Colosseum

The next morning was a beautiful day with bright blue skies and crisp cool air, perfect weather to visit the world renowned Roman Forum and Colosseum. Stepping off the Metro and seeing the Colosseum and Arch of Constantine for the first time sent chills down my spine. It could've been the cool air, but it happened. The adjoining ruins of the Roman forum and Palatine Hill were the political center of Ancient Rome. The very place world shaping decisions both good a bad happened. The same ground Julius Caesar, Augustus, Pompey and maybe even Spartacus once roamed.

The Roman ruins known as the Forum (Above)

We started at the Forum, walking around with an audio guide and map purchased at the ticket booth. The main complex became visible, as we walked through the Arc of Titus, sending me into Roman fanboy mode. Maybe more like Spartacus fanboy mode, but definitely feeling the Roman vide. We had seen most of these ruins on TV and in books, but knew little about the true histories behind them. The audio guide gave some insights on the rubble laid out before us. This helped us to understand the layout and function of the ancient structures. Roman life seemed similar to modern times with the rich and powerful class ruling the masses as the poor did all the heavy lifting with little sway in the political arena. Religions were used to control and maintain society and Samantha found what was once thought to be a gate to hell, the Lacus Curtis. Another ominous monument the Umbilicus Urbis, known as the Navel of Rome was the symbolic center of the city. A short round brick structure built atop a cave the founder of Rome, Romulus, believed led to hell and only opened the door three times a year when evil spirits were thought to roam the city. Religion and state must have walked hand and hand in those days.

View of the Forum just past the Arc of Titus (Above)

There was so much to see and I'm sure we missed somethings, but the minutes ticked by at a rapid pace. We made our way up to Palatine Hill enjoying the views of the city below. I know Rome wasn't built in a day, but these people lived a lavish lifestyle for that period in history. We would have a difficult time living as they did, but this was the top tier of social status back then. Life without windows and electricity would have sucked for sure, but would Roman have succeeded if modern conveniences like Social Media existed back then? The ruling class dictated the way others lived with control by appearance and coin. Imagine Spartacus had an Instagram account full of tortured slave pics with them going viral across the ancient world. A large enough uprising may have defeated Rome stopping further progress and terror. Today we have the power to sway the masses with little effort or consequence.

Augustus arena on Palatine Hill (Above)

Samantha grew tired of the endless battered ruins of the Hill suggesting we make our way over to the Colosseum. She didn't have to ask me twice as we made a beeline in that direction. That thing was huge! I could only imagine what people thought of such an enormous structure when it was built. A true modern marvel of its day with most of it still intact after a millennia of neglect. We entered the Colosseum making our way up the steep stairs to see the inside of the stadium. The familiar design reminded me of modern football stadiums with the outer edge walkways and tiered seating on multiple levels. It was very much like walking into the Carolina Panther NFL stadium for the first time. Looking down on the oval shaped center where all the action took place. I could truly imagine the roar of the crowd as Gladiators fought animals and each other in life and death battles. Getting caught up in the moment, we missed the last underground tour of the day by 15 minutes. We couldn't believe we did that! It wasn't the end of the world, but it kind of sucked. Just another reason to visit Rome again in the future I guess.

The Colosseum was truly an ancient architectural marvel (Above)

Walking out of the Colosseum we watched several street performers dressed as Roman Soldiers posing with tourists for photos. This seemed like such a strange yet fun way to make money.

Hard day at the office for these two Roman soldiers (Above)

Leaving the Colosseum we headed toward the imposing Victor Emmanuel II Monument, a massive white marble structure completed in 1925. Unbelievably, several historical sites were destroyed to make room for the controversial construction on Capitoline Hill. At the base of the monument soldiers stood guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier as passerby's went about their daily routines. The day drew to a close as we walked the crowded streets toward the Pantheon. An odd looking building with circular walls and rectangle front porch with very tall Roman columns built almost 2 thousand years ago. As we snapped the last picture of the Pantheon, Samantha had enough for the day. We found a nice restaurant with outdoor seating for a real Italian meal before heading back to our hotel.

(Above) Victor Emmanuel II Monument (Below) The Pantheon

The next morning we headed to the Circus Maximus just to say we were there because there's not much to see. A large open field with some ruins on the ends and that's about it. Amazingly still in use as a stage had been assembled for an outdoor concert celebrating the New Year. Looking to explore other parts of Rome we headed to the Spanish Steps and played a game of "Where's Waldo" as I took a picture of Samantha standing on the crowded steps.

The famous Spanish Steps (Above)

The neighborhood looked absolutely Italian with numerous scooters lining the sidewalks and tiny cars driving down narrow cobble stone streets. The closer we got to the Trevi Fountain the more crowded it became. Who knows how many women have thrown coins into that fountain hoping for love and marriage. We of course followed the tradition and picked-up a little keepsake as-well. The narrow alleyways were filled with street venders and performers looking to make a quick dollar. It was the best place in town to buy Italian handbags made in China. Walking around this part of Rome away from many of the big ticket items gave us time to soak in the city. Since it was New Year's Eve we headed back to the hotel for a break before heading back out for a late night on the town.

(Above) Trevi Fountain (Below) Typical Rome street

Chapter 5

### New Year in Rome

The hotel receptionist had given us a few options for New Year's celebrations and we decided on the Piazza del Popolo known as the Peoples Square. First we walked around the Colosseum area full of people as club music blared from loudspeakers. The streets were already packed a 7:30 and we thought about just staying there, but a plan is a plan. Arriving at the Peoples Square around 9:00 we found a little restaurant for dinner and drinks. The countdown was quickly approaching as we walked down the main street of Via de Corso. The street had been decorated with long strands of lights stretching unbelievably far giving a festive appearance enticing people to see what was happening.

The People's Square (Above)

Walking back toward the square we struck-up a conversation with a young American couple spending their first New Years away from home. The crowd was getting a little rowdy by this time so we decided to hang with our new found friends. People were yelling and throwing empty beer and wine bottles ten minutes before the New Year started. There wasn't an official countdown in the square, but the homemade fireworks and explosives gave us a pretty accurate timeline. This was a very blue collar event as random loud explosions came from every direction and smoke settled over the square like a thick fog. No overhead fireworks or organized celebration, just raw energy as drunkards tossed empty bottles and live explosives at one another while screaming in Italian. I guess it made sense to the locals. Our new friends decided to get the hell out of dodge before things got too crazy so we said our goodbyes as they hurried away. We didn't see anyone get hurt and the commotion only lasted 30 minutes before the square was deserted. Definitely not the grand spectacle we had hoped for but exciting none the less.

Missing breakfast the next day we slept in till 10:30 because most attractions and businesses were closed for the holiday anyway. We were both feeling a little melancholy because it was our last full day in Rome and worse last full day in Italy. I wanted to see the Tiber River before leaving so we headed to Tiber Island. We walked over the connecting bridges snapping pictures of love locks and the Pons Aemilius, the remnants of a 2 thousand year old bridge. People crowded onto the little island as the water swiftly flowed beneath our feet. The view had a calming effect as we joined others just standing and watching the day slip by like a friendly wave to a passerby. The sun was casting long shadows as we strolled away from the river and toward the hotel stopping ever so often for a quick pic of random monuments. We both really liked Italy, or at least the parts we'd seen so far, thinking it would be a great place to live one day. The mountainous terrain with familiar vegetation and hands on feel for life reminded us of home making Italy a serious contender for long-term living in the future. But our time was at an end in the birthplace of Western Culture as the desert life in the sandbox was calling us back to reality.

On the flight home I gazed out the window watching the clouds as if in a dream, we had finally made it to Italy and found the country even more fascinating than we first imagined. The rich history and historical buildings filled with one of a kind artworks attract the masses, but the people keep us coming back for more with charming personalities and pure Italian style.

(Above) Pons Fabricius Bridge (Below) Basilica of St. Bartholomew

### Chapter 6

### Trip to Egypt and Turkey

It had been 3 months since we vacationed out of the country making us a little antsy for a new adventure. We had spent the summer back home in North Carolina catching up with friends and family. Not much had changed since the year before and heading back to the U.A.E. felt good. Don't get me wrong we missed our family and friends, but liked the International life style too. The winter break was right around the corner so we pulled out our travel wish lists. One of the top five "must see places before we die" on our travel lists was Egypt. Just think of the top ten places everybody has heard of or read about and I guarantee Egypt is on that list. Mainly because of the Great Pyramids, the Sphinx and Halloween costumes of the beautiful Cleopatra and Egyptian Pharaohs. The Pyramids are famous because of their size and the curse of the mummies. The Sphinx is a strange looking mystery probably better left unsolved. Retailers will use any and all forms of depravity to make a quick buck and sexy Egyptian themed Halloween costumes are a sure bet. And for that, many of us are thankful. There are many more reasons why Egypt is and should be world famous, but ask most people today and see what they say.

So Cairo was a sure thing, but what about other parts of Egypt? We asked a few friends for some suggestions and received many great ideas. A good friend of ours mentioned she would like to see the Great Pyramids, so we invited her along with us. One of the things I like about traveling is the planning. The internet makes it very easy to customize a trip to where ever and do whatever your heart's desire. I put together a few options for the trip and invited Ms. Rosemary over for a consultation on a wine down Thursday, which is the end of the work week in the U.A.E. We wanted to see the Valley of the Kings and Karnak so Luxor was added to the list with Alexandria on the table. Knowing the price of flights change like the wardrobe of a host on MTV's Award shows, we started looking for the best deals. Surprisingly Egypt Air wasn't the cheapest, but was the quickest to and from Abu Dhabi. Jordanian Air was cheaper, but with a layover in Jordan. Turkish Airlines had good prices and better flight times, but with a layover in Istanbul. We all said the same thing, wouldn't it be cool to visit Egypt, Jordan and Turkey at the same time. It may have been the excitement of planning the upcoming trip or may have been the wine, who knows. All I knew for sure was we now had 3 countries to plan for and a short time to do it.

Like other inescapable things in life, change is bound to happen. Just a few days later we had to cut our trip short when Samantha's vacation time was shortened by her employer to accommodate newly required personal development quotas. Ah, the joys of being an adult. The decision to cut Alexandria and Jordan from our trip was tough, but something had to give. Brightside Jordan was only a few hours away, so definitely a doable long weekend trip in the future. I booked the multi city flights from Abu Dhabi to Cairo to Istanbul and back to Abu Dhabi with excitement and disappointment of not having Amman on the list. But we now had the when and where, so all we needed was what to do. I emailed numerous Egyptian tour companies found on TripAdvisor recommended by friends before making a final decision. I found a budget friendly company that allowed us to customize the trip to suit our tastes and wallets. They would pick us up at the airport and provide all transportation and guides for the different tours as well as arrange the hotel stays in Cairo and Luxor. The only thing I didn't like was the required down payment over the internet for the Hotels and flight to and from Luxor. The process seemed outdated and unsecure at best, with a sense of I'm being scammed running through my head like a bright red truck with flashing lights and loud siren. The reviews online mentioned this step with no problems being reported, so we paid the ransom. I would've preferred using PayPal or something similar, but it turned out ok anyway.

Not knowing diddly squat about Turkey or Istanbul I did a quick web search for some guidance. I knew where Turkey was located and it was a Muslim country but not much else. When I read the previous name of Istanbul I became very excited. I must have just forgotten world history or had a brain fart. It was only after discovering Istanbul was in fact Constantinople I realized the historical significance of the city. It was a real duh-huh moment for sure. I immediately kicked into Roman fanboy mode after realizing we would soon be visiting the Eastern Capitol of the Roman Empire, the city that sets on both Europe and Asia with historical ties to both continents. After finding a reasonably priced day tour to the Ancient city of Ephesus from Istanbul, with airfare included, the itinerary was complete. So Ms. Rosemary, Ms. Samantha and o'l Tricky Dick (me) would fly to Cairo, Luxor, Istanbul and Ephesus for the winter break, setting-up another adventure during Christmas and New Year's holiday for Alexander County Abroad.

### Chapter 7

### Cairo

We got off to a great start with Ms. Rosemary driving us from Madinat Zayed to the Airport in Abu Dhabi because her car rental company provided free off-site parking at the airport and it sure beat that long bus ride from the west. The afternoon flight time was nice, giving us time to visit the Airport Lounge before take-off. A non-stop economy class flight to Cairo on Egypt air with old school LCD monitors hanging from the luggage bends evenly spaced throughout the plane. I didn't mind the tiny monitor placed several rows in front of me as much as the 1940's black and white movie everybody was forced to watch. It was in reality a precursor of things to come.

As we landed in Cairo, all I could see from the air was endless desert and a strip of green outlining the Nile River. It was late in the evening with stars visible in the horizon. Our Egypt contact Ahmed met us at customs helping us pass through the busy lines with ease. He was a nice man born and raised in Cairo who spoke very good English. Ahmed ushered us through the hectic airport past the aggressive taxi drivers waiting just outside the exit doors. He had warned us to walk fast and not let anyone grab our bags on the way to our private car.

The slowed tourism combined with an already poor economy had caused many service workers to become aggressive out of desperation. A common tactic was to grab tourist's luggage and "help" them to a taxi for a tip. Stepping outside was like we were famous celebrities and the taxi drivers were the paparazzi trying to get our attention with loud shouts and frantic hand gestures. We were all glad to be inside the perceived safety of our private van as Ahmed introduced us to the driver Samir. Ahmed said don't worry my friends Samir is the best driver in all of Cairo. That's when he asked for the rest of the money for the tour. It seemed a little odd to ask for the money while we sat in the dark airport parking lot, kind of shady like a drug deal, but he accepted cash or card. With a smile Ahmed pulled out a portable credit card reader and said no problem.

We headed out of the airport and ran straight into bumper to bumper traffic as far as the eye could see in both directions. Within 30 seconds of riding down the congested road we knew our lives were in danger with no way out. The four lane highway had six or seven lanes jammed together with angry drivers weaving and dodging for position like a real life game of frogger. Not one car stayed in the marked lanes as drivers honked horns and flashed lights pushing each other out of the way. There was no rhyme or reason for the insanity of driving in Cairo. The rules are there are no rules and can confidently say I would never ever try to drive in that madness. With that said, they should market the driving around from place to place as part of the tour. It's a thrill ride the whole time, much like an amusement park without the safety equipment and guidelines. I would mount some cameras to record first time visitor's reactions and post them on YouTube for a nice second source of income. The look on our faces must have been priceless and worth at least 500,000 views easy. As we drove deeper into the city the initial shock and awe of the traffic was overshadowed by the unexpectedly low level standard of living. Ahmed had warned us things were bad, but were in fact slowly improving.

The crazy roads of Cairo (Above)

The dirty and worn streets were littered with trash and debris indicating a break down in infrastructure. All the cars and trucks looked old and abused with dents and scratches from bumper to bumper, indicators of the poor economy. Pavement turned to dirt as we drove to a hotel I had requested for its proximity to the Pyramids. I knew things would be rough in this area, but I didn't know the whole city was in this low and dismal state. Samantha and I grew-up poor, but not this poor. It reminded me of the Great Depression described by my grandparents.

After an hour of crazy traffic we pulled up to a rundown building that looked closed for the night. Ahmed called someone on the phone and a very nice man, named Gouda, opened the front door and led us to the "penthouse" rooms. The man motioned for a younger guy to carry our bags, but I had to help the poor fellow half way up the stairwell. He had run out of steam trying to carry 2 bags and just gave up as Gouda fussed and shook his head. The building was very old but had a certain charm to it. The rooftop rooms had faux wood paneling reminding me of several single wide trailers I once called home. They looked like something found in a camper, but had a full-sized bed and bathroom and a view to die for. The first 2 hotels I requested were booked solid, but the little Sphinx Guest House filled my criteria with vacancies. The amazing view and friendly staff are second to none, if you're in search of an authentic vacation with a real life feel. There were no uniforms worn by the staff and no free amenities in the room, just a place to rest your head and glimpse how adventurers of the old world traveled.

I barely noticed a tour guide working for Ahmed when we arrived at the hotel. The excitement of seeing the Pyramids had me in a tizzy. It was now 9:00pm and our tour guide Muhammed was anxious to show us around the area. He was very nice and spoke good English with a thick Egyptian accent. We hadn't been briefed on this part of the vacation, but it was very much appreciated. Muhammed asked if we were hungry for some authentic Egyptian food or ready for bed. Ha-ha, as Ms. Rosemary said we were all a little peckish. He gave us the option of where to eat, so we let him decide.

Muhammed had an easy smile and accommodating demeanor. As we walked down the dark and dirty street people approached looking for a quick dollar as Muhammed ushered them away with some harsh sounding Arabic phrases. After walking to a main street we hopped into a local taxi, which was an old VW van minus the sliding door and engine cover. It was a very nonchalant attitude for catching a ride as anyone could join us as we sped down the road. What would most westerners say or do if their taxi stopped to pick someone else up as they travelled to their destination. Oh my, the crazy world we live in. We hopped out of the cab as Muhammed negotiated the price for us. It was only a few US dollars equaling 20 Egyptian pounds. Well worth it for the experience.

We walked across the street to a small restaurant, not knowing what to order we asked Muhammed to order for us. The total price was 30 Egyptian Pounds for all of us, so we bought that round. That's like 4 US dollars for take away and no drinks, but enough food for the 4 of us. Muhammed took us to a shisha bar with televised soccer games to eat our dinner. The equivalent to a sports bar I guess. We ordered bottled water and coffee for letting us eat there.

Muhammed told us stories of his childhood and places to visit before we left. He had taken us to a very non-touristy spot with many locals giving us a skeptical look as we joined their everyday activities. The whole experience so far was beyond words as my mind tried to process the whole day. We enjoyed the great tasting take-out and strong Egyptian coffee, or at least the girls did. I do not drink any coffee as it tastes like crap in my humble opinion. The simple dish probably equivalent to cheap diner food was fabulous and Samantha said it tasted like food some of the Egyptian teachers at her school brought for various celebrations. I wondered if Waffle House type food would taste good to Egyptians like it does to Americans. I don't know if it's the grease or the ambiance that make American diners so popular.

The blue collar vibe felt nice making it easy to relax in such a foreign environment. In my experience the lack of money usually fosters compassion and goodwill toward others. The contrast between the UAE and Egypt was striking. The oil money promotes independence and arrogance while tourism demands a polite and open arms attitude. With that said, I felt much safer in the UAE. The failing Egyptian economy had left many in dire straits and desperate people tend to do bad things. Having a local guide gave us needed confidence to explore away from the tourist areas with the perceived notion of protection.

It was near 11:00pm and we needed to get some sleep for the full day ahead of us. Muhammed walked us back to the hotel as he tried chatting up Ms. Rosemary to no avail. Luckily Gouda was waiting for us so we could walk straight to our room without delay. We settled into our rooms and tried to get some sleep as the thin walls let in all the noises from the streets below.

### Chapter 8

### The Great Pyramid Day Tour

After a sleepless night we awoke before sunrise to find Ms. Rosemary enjoying the view of the Pyramids from our rooftop perch. The poor excuse of a shower had running water, but that was about it. Those little inconvenient distractions faded away as I gazed at the Great Pyramids and mysterious Sphinx in the early morning light. Gouda and his daughter got up early to cook us breakfast as it was part of our room package. We walked down the worn stairs to the kitchen and it felt like something out of a history novel. We sat at an old farm table as the daughter served us homemade Egyptian food. The intimate setting was overwhelming as visions of past visitors filled my head. How many people had visited this hotel to enjoy the ridiculous views of the Pyramids? Gouda was the owner of this hotel past down for 2 centuries and I worried about his families future. The world had changed and they stood still, confused about how to evolve and prosper in this new world. I knew the proximity to the Pyramids made this place a goldmine but the owners had no idea how to capitalize on the advantage.

The fantastic view from our hotel balcony (Above)

Our transport arrived early. The new driver hurried us into our private van in order to stay on his schedule. Our new tour guide, Hesham, was well educated in ancient Egyptian history. He had a very likeable personality and spoke with a charming Egyptian accent. Hesham went over the day's itinerary to make sure it was to our liking. We would visit the Egyptian Museum, a paper factory, and break for lunch before the main attraction at the Giza Plateau. The daylight didn't help the view from the van as we sped down the dilapidated roads of Cairo. The traffic was still crazy but not as busy as the previous night. The city was an odd blend of old and new. Automobiles zoomed around as people went about their daily lives like any other city in the world, but many residents drove wagon like contraptions pulled by donkeys and horses. It was a very strange mix like something out of a sci-fi movie with someone riding a horse down Main Street while talking on a cell phone. I've seen people ride a horse and use a cellphone on a farm or in a wooded trail, but never in a crowded international metropolis. The backdrop of the city filled with numerous tall buildings in disrepair and unfinished states only added to the cinematic feel of my perception. As we drove toward the museum Hesham had the driver stop on a bridge overlooking the famous Nile River for a great photo opportunity. Egypt's natural lifeline for the past 5000 years is also the longest river in the world. It was actually larger than I had imagined, able to accommodate huge river cruise ships with ease. We hopped back into the van and headed straight to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities.

Egyptian Museum

Arriving at the museum before it opened allowed us time to roam around the courtyard and take pictures of the many artifacts on display. It was the only time we could take pictures since cameras weren't allowed in the museum. That was a real bummer, but what do you do. The old building looked like, well an old museum. Probably because it was in fact the same building first opened in 1902 with little to none in the way of improvements since then. In my mind the museum itself should be in a museum with all the rich history it contained. I real liked the look and feel of the old place, but it didn't look very secure. I guess that's why a military squad was positioned outside with barbed wire fencing and road blockades. The burnt shell of Egyptians National Party building next door stands as a sober reminder of the 2011 revolts when thieves broke into the museum causing damage to some artifacts while stealing others.

Our cameras were kept in a small building near the front gate, placed in unlocked cubby bins in exchange for a numbered marker. Hesham had warned us not leave the memory cards in the cameras as they sometimes disappeared. This made us feel uneasy leaving several thousand dollars' worth of equipment in the hands of thieving strangers, but we had no say in the matter. Hesham led us into the museum just as the doors opened. The place was jammed picked with ancient artifacts displayed in glass cases and large statues lined the walls. The two story museum housed over 160,000 pieces spanning 5000 years of Egyptian history. Hesham gave us detailed information on certain artifacts he felt held significance meaning in the history of Ancient Egypt. I liked all of the historic displays, but King Tutankhamun was the star of the show. We entered a room displaying the famous golden mask and sarcophagus of King Tut surrounded by other personal items. Another section displayed a golden throne and chariot with other furniture pieces. Several large glass displays housed four huge gold colored nesting boxes that protected the Pharaohs body for over 3000 years, each fitting inside the next like a Russian doll set. It was such an elaborately odd way to bury the rich and famous people of that time period.

The gate to the Egyptian Museum with the burnt building in the background (Above)

One thing I hated was the nickel and dime antics of some attractions we visited and the Egyptian Museum was among them. Charging extra for exhibits housed with all the other exhibits is just outdated in my opinion. Why not just charge a little more on each ticket and call it a day? So after several hours of looking at dead bodies, used jewelry, ancient Tupperware and huge garden gnomes we left the old museum to tour a papyrus paper factory. Luckily the cameras were safe and sound as we grabbed them on the way out.

Papyrus Paper Factory

The paper factory was definitely a tourist trap, but fun nonetheless. A guide gave us a demonstration on how the paper was made from papyrus plants and what the fake sugarcane paper looked like so not to be fooled on the streets by slick talking shysters. It was really a great sales gimmick that worked on us. We bought several pieces of papyrus paper with "handmade" art work on them and a couple of bookmarks inscribed with hieroglyphic symbols of our names. Several workers whispered to me I was a lucky man; meaning I had 2 wives. This must have been a common sales tactic as it was repeated several more times during our stay in Egypt. Lucky man indeed. We left the little paper factory and headed to a lovely restaurant with a view of the Pyramids. Revitalized we went straight to the main event.

The Giza Plateau

The Pyramids were a long uphill walk from the entry gate, filled with relentless pushy solicitors looking to scam tourist for a quick dollar. Luckily our tour included a ride to the Pyramids bypassing the mayhem. I never realized the Pyramids sat on top a hill because all the pictures I'd seen looked like flat ground. Stepping out of the van into the midday sun we marched toward what felt like victory to me. I fell behind the others as I snapped several dozen pictures trying to capture the moment. I was surprised at the scale; they were much larger than I imagined making it hard to get a decent shot. Hesham offered to take our picture in front of the Great Pyramid and as we climbed the very object of our affection. What a thrill to really touch such a truly iconic part of ancient history. Content to just climb the massive blocks we didn't pay the extra cash to venture inside the Pyramid. I just sat on a piece of history and pondered what life would have been like during the construction of such a monumental undertaking.

Christmas in Egypt (Above)

A very awe-inspiring view of the imposing Pyramid (Above)

The girls soon wanted to venture over to the backside of the complex for the cheesy pyramid pics. I agreed thinking it would be a great spot to capture the Pyramids with a backdrop of Cairo. Knowing we would be there on Christmas day we all brought Santa hats, well I had a red toboggan (knit cap) and the girls had Santa hats. I couldn't find one to fit my fat head. Hesham snapped a few pics of us wearing our hats and then proceeded to conduct a photo shoot with Ms. Rosemary. It was fun watching her pretend to touch the tip of the Pyramid and then hold it in her hand and other silly poses. It was then Samantha's turn as I took pictures of Hesham taking pictures of her. I declined to succumb to the childish antics because I viewed the Pyramids as what they were, tombs of the dead.

The backside of the Giza Plateau (Above)

This area had a souvenir corner set-up in the middle of nowhere like a portable flea market filled with cheap China keepsakes laid out on blankets. There were also camel and carriage rides for sale that took people to another vantage point of the Pyramids. Since we had ridden camels before we opted for the carriage ride. I will say the views were fantastic and worth the extra price, but the bumpy ride not so much. After spending sometime at the Pyramids it was time to see the mysterious Sphinx.

To get to the Sphinx we had to walk the dreaded gauntlet of souvenir hell. Unlike the one on the hill, this long corridor was full of overly aggressive salesmen with little regard for personal space. We had read about this tourist trap and knew to just walk straight through without making eye contact or verbal recognition. Those guys were very persistent and battered us with pleas to buy something the whole way, but we finally made it to the Sphinx without incident. Ms. Rosemary and Samantha did the kiss the Sphinx pictures as I looked on.

The gauntlet of vendors on the way to the Sphinx (Above)

We wandered around the Sphinx imagining why it was built and what people must have thought as it came to be. The many years of exposure had eroded much of the exterior and the nose is of course missing. One story describes a 1300's Muslim leader knocking it off to show the superstitious people it was just a statue and not a god. Another blames Napoleons army using it as target practice. Both are interesting stories, but nobody knows for sure. My moneys on erosion and gravity for the botched nose job. It had been a very long day with the sun now very low in the sky and I wanted to get back to the hotel for some awesome evening shots of the Pyramids.

Up close view of the Sphinx (Above)

The view from the carriage ride (Above)

On the way out I made a mistake by buying 5 papayas scrolls for 5 euros, thinking the guy would be happy I bought something. But instead he pushed for another sale and like a shark sensing blood he went full on crazy. This guy wouldn't take no for an answer leaning into me blocking my way. I raised my hand with the intention of pushing the guy out of my way when Hesham came over and did it for me as he spoke something in Arabic calming the man down. Hesham had been helpful and informative all day and I'm glad we had a guide to help us navigate the craziness of Cairo's greatest attractions.

Thinking we were finished for the day I started thanking the driver and guide for their wonderful service. That's when Hesham informed us we had one more stop before the day was over. Ah man, I could see our hotel from where we stood. Thankful for their service throughout the day we agreed to one last tourist trap. We drove a short distance to a perfume shop where the workers gave us free tea while we tried different scents and negotiated prices. I don't know how, but I managed to spill most of my tea down my shirt and into my lap. This got a big laugh from everybody, even other shoppers in the store. I was glad I could make others happy at my own expense. Finally it was time to call it a day and head back to our wonderful hotel view.

Once back at the hotel we all grabbed a camera and tried our best to drain those batteries. The sun was rapidly setting on the horizon and the sky had a cool pink and blue hue reflecting off some clouds. I don't think that view could ever get old. The entrance to the Pyramids was on the same street as our hotel, busy with people winding down for the day. Like parked cars, there were dozens of horses and camels lining the street. A young colt broke away from its owner and made a beeline for freedom toward the desert, inside the Pyramid gate, as the man chased after it. Camels growled asking for dinner as several animals ate from piles of trash left on the street. We watched in amazement as no one attempted to stop them or clean up the trash. Several owners placed sacks of fresh cut grass along the road for the animals to snack on.

These animals were not pets but workers earning a living alongside the people, each benefiting from the other. We noticed the animals in Cairo (the camels in particular) looked and acted happy. I'm not saying all animals should be treated this way just that the people seemed to appreciate the work from the animals and gave them more respect in return.

The busy street view below our hotel room (Above)

Life was a little different in Cairo with lowered expectations of acceptable living conditions or at least in the areas we visited. Many depended on the constant flow of world travelers for a main source of income and as weary tourist flooded our street heading in many different directions experienced peddlers maneuvered in for one last sale. The shiny air-conditioned tour buses full of disposable income from around the world never stopped, not even after dark.

Soon the Pyramids would come to life during the light and sound show narrating the history of Ancient Egyptian Pharaohs. To witness the Pyramids and Sphinx illuminated with dramatic colors and laser lights as loud narrations echoed across the Giza Plateau was very entertaining. The thunderous sound effects coincided with the changing lights to give an almost comical overdone performance, Dun dun duun! We got to see the show for free from our hotel patio and hear it again after we went to bed, in more than one language. A good word of advice is to buy several pairs of ear plugs when traveling. The next morning we would fly to Luxor to see the Valley of the Kings and the city of Karnak.

The Pyramid sound and light show from our balcony (Above)

After getting ready for bed I sat reading emails letting the day's events sink in and process them before falling asleep. My brother asked how we liked Egypt and what it was like seeing the Pyramids. After thinking about it for a moment I wrote this response before taking a 6 hour nap:

" _What can I say we saw the flipping Great Pyramids! Words don't do them justice or at least my words don't give them what they need. The many years of wanting to see these Ancient Architectural Marvels swept over me as I started to cry with delight during this surreal moment. Well, that's how I wanted to feel but I didn't. Seeing these awesome piles of massive blocks was well worth the trip, but not emotionally uplifting transcending me to another realm of consciousness kind of awesome. I mean it's not like the Pyramids do anything besides sit there, for eternity. Don't get me wrong I loved seeing them and climbing on them and being able to say I've been to the Giza Plateau. I just found it kind of sad modern Egyptians are still dependent on the blood, sweat and tears of people that died thousands of years ago. What if the ruins didn't exist and the ancient Pharaohs never amounted to anything and just faded away in history? What would modern Egypt be to day? "_
Chapter 9

### Luxor

It was still dark as we left our hotel for the airport. Too early for breakfast and too tired to care as we drove for an hour before arriving at our destination. The flight was pleasant and arrived on time. A very nice man named Muhammad greeted us at the gate and drove us to the Lotus hotel setting on the east bank of the Nile River. We couldn't believe how clean and green Luxor was compared to Cairo! The streets were in great shape and people drove like they had some common sense. Luxor was a small town with lush vegetation and friendly vibe, known in ancient times as Thebes. Almost the complete opposite to its urban counterpart city to the north, but still a powerhouse in the world of ancient Egyptian treasures.

Arriving at the hotel before check-in time we stored our luggage and went for a stroll down the street, popping in and out of several gift shops looking for good deals on cheap keepsakes. Those guys started very high and we started very low in our negotiation talks for cheap china made Egyptian wares. Not really meeting on any common ground we moved on.

Several horse and buggies set idle waiting on hapless tourists looking for the whole Luxor experience. We weren't going far so there was no need for such a wasteful expense. A group of taxi drivers fought for our attention as we walked, but put off by a persistent young man riding in one of the carriages. He followed us for 20 minutes never letting up, first with one sales pitch and then another. Calling me boss first and asking if those were my 2 wives, making me a lucky man. He then started calling me mustache man. I don't think he knew the meaning of that word since I had a short but full beard at the time. This kid just wouldn't shut up as he followed us up one street and down the next. No matter what we told him, he just kept on and on and on. I finally said guess where I'm from and I'll hire you for later in the day, giving him 3 chances. The same game I played in the U.A.E. The young man had a surprised look on his face and didn't have a quick response to such a question. He was silent for a whole 30 seconds before saying Ireland. I shook my head. He slowly said Australia and again I shook my head. Thinking really hard he paused for a moment before answering South Africa. I said you lose better luck next time. Then he said where, where you from? Smiling, I said USA. Surprised, he said really! I guess they don't get too many Southerners in Luxor these days. Thankfully we had made it back to our hotel with a security guard denying him entry.

Soon after getting checked-in to the hotel we were greeted by our tour guide Mahmoud. He was an older gentleman schooled in Cairo with decades of experience on everything Egyptian. We had paid for a private tour but agreed to allow a married couple to join us. They seemed nice and two more wouldn't take away from our experience. If anything they made it better. Mahmoud explained the itinerary and led us to the water for a short boat ride across the Nile. The views were amazing with huge river cruise ships and ancient ruins on one side and residential houses and pastures on the other. We rode a boat on the Nile River! I will write it again; we rode a boat on the Nile River. It never gets old.

A van was waiting to take us on our day tour of Luxor. We would see both the East and West banks of the Nile. After crossing the Nile to the West bank we would first visit Colossi of Memnon, The Valley of the Kings, and Temple of Deir al-Bahri. Once back on the East bank we would visit Karnak and Luxor Temples.

A boat ride on the mighty Nile River (Above)

Colossi of Memnon

The first stop was the two gigantic statues known as Colossi of Memnon. Just two ridiculously sized statues in terrible condition setting in an empty field. The 3,400 year old statues once stood guard to Amenhotep III memorial temple. Purposely built in the flood plan for water effects eventually caused the structure to fall in disrepair. Later rulers used the stones for other projects leaving the site abandoned except for the damaged statues. For several centuries one statue is documented to have made sounds early in the mornings after an earthquake destroyed its top half. The sounds stopped once the top was repaired by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus in 199 A.D.

Mahmoud didn't even get out of the van for this stop, but their definitely worth a picture. Even at this little roadside pit stop several pushy salesmen harassed us for not buying some cheap China made trinkets. They followed us back to the van and continued rambling even after the driver shut the door in their face. If anything they were persistent.

The Colossi of Memnon statues (Above)

The Valley of the Kings

Next we headed to the Valley of the Kings. Again no cameras were allowed and we didn't try to sneak any cell phone pictures. I wanted to, but didn't. We saw several people get busted by plain clothed security guards, but nothing happened as a result. It was sure hot at the desolate valley of the dead with a lot of walking required to see some of the more famous tombs. The tombs were carved into the limestone mountain with passageways leading downward to multiple chambers. Some meant to deceive would-be robbers while others housed personal items, countless riches and of course the mummified bodies. The tombs were painted with hieroglyphics and decorated with monuments paying tribute to the many Egyptian gods. Mahmoud gave us the low down on the tombs and a list of his favorites based on preservation and ease of access. To be honest I don't remember which tombs we explored because we couldn't take pictures to document the trip. We did explore several very colorful and deep tombs, but not King Tuts. Again we wouldn't pay extra for something that should've been included in the price of the ticket. Mahmoud didn't push the tourist trap and even hinted it was a waste of money. This could've been his way of keeping us on schedule, but IDK.

I do know Mahmoud had quite a few good stories to tell as we walked around in the blazing midday sun. One being the mummies in Cairo are mislabeled because they had been discarded and piled together by ancient thieves long ago leaving no way to tell who was who. Another involved local residents living near the Valley of the Kings. Supposedly those residents had dug underneath their own homes searching for buried artifacts. And when one was found they sold it on the black-market instead of turning it over to the authorities. As a result the government relocated all the residents to new housing near Luxor, forbidding anyone access to their old homes. I have no idea if any of the stories are true but he sure told them well. He also believed King Tut was probably buried in someone else's tomb because of his untimely death. Mahmoud suggested Tut was hastily buried in the only tomb available at the time and when the original owner died was placed above Tut in a different chamber. When thieves plundered the top tomb of all its riches they of course stopped digging. Not knowing about the unusual circumstance of Tuts death leaving the boy King untouched for thousands of years until Howard Carter rediscovered it in 1922.

Leaving the Valley of the Kings Mahmoud asked if we'd like to see a local craft shop where locals made authentic Egyptian merchandise. We all agreed since it was on the way to our next stop and what's one more tourist trap going to hurt. The driver pulled off the paved road onto a dirt parking lot stopping at a small group of dingy buildings. We followed Mahmoud toward the building as the owner came out and greeted us. He was a very happy man and a natural born salesman if I've ever seen one. The front of the building had a covered walkway with several men sitting on the ground while hand carving obelisks, pyramids, scarabs, cats and other items out of local raw materials such as basalt, talc and alabaster. A lead man started a rehearsed routine explaining the difference between cheap Chinese reproductions and real handmade artifacts. He asked a question and the other workers answered in harmony. The married couple considered it demoralizing and degrading as they loudly voiced their negative opinions. I believed those people chose to work in the tourism trade and the show was part of the job which they all seemed to enjoy as proof by their smiles and jovial attitudes. I thought it was kind of cool and appreciated their efforts in trying to guilt us into buying some merchandise. The three of us browsed around the adjoining gift shop looking to put our newly acquired skills to the test. All the merchandise really did feel sturdier than the cheap knickknacks in Cairo, but sticker shock had us looking on the clearance rack. Free tea and coffee was offered as we shopped adding to our desire to purchase something out of gratitude. There were no prices on anything, yet another widely used sales tactic in Egypt. We found a few small pieces that would fit in our luggage and started the negotiations. The beginning quote was 1200 Egyptian pounds which was like 150 US dollars. That was a little steep for a couple of figurines no bigger than a cheap wine opener, handmade or not. We counteroffered 400 EGP and the salesman came down to 1000 EGP. I politely said I think we're just too far apart to make a deal today and excused ourselves from the sales counter. To our surprise he let us walk away with no resistance at all.

When we found Ms. Rosemary she was debating on which cat statue to buy, the big one or the really big one. The largest one being almost life sized in the traditional Egyptian cat pose. She worried about the weight of her luggage and how her real cats would react to the imposing statue. One guess on which one she bought. The married couple looked bored out of their minds as we finally made our way back to the van. Samantha and I were standing beside the van when the owner of the shop approached us with a final offer for the two figurines. With a thick Egyptian accent he thanked us for visiting Egypt and especially his shop. He now considered us friends wanted to make us happy. The man was laying it on thick! He said today you name your price, just tell me what you think these handmade art pieces are worth. I knew he was a natural born salesman the moment I laid eyes on him. Samantha looked at me and I looked at the owner and offered 400 EGP ($50) for the pair. He said no problem my friends as he handed the pieces to me and wished us safe travels. I had no idea if that was a good deal or a bad deal. The point was to give a little to the people that needed it. We didn't have a ton to money to blow, but we did pay 10 times more for two figurines in Luxor than we did for six trinkets in Cairo.

It was early afternoon at this point so we all decided to stop for lunch on the way to the Temple of Deir al-Bahri. Mahmoud gave us a few options, but we let him decide. He picked a great little family owned place away from the city with a fantastic view of the Egyptian countryside. The restaurant was on the second floor with a lovely open balcony. The meal was included in the tour, but drinks were extra. Different bowls of food were placed on the table and passed around like we were in someone's house, each scooping what they wanted. The food tasted very good as we sat in the wonderful outdoor weather each telling stories of past adventures. A delightful surprise to us was the available beer and wine selections. Egypt seemed to be a little more relaxed on the alcohol restrictions than other Muslim countries.

Queen Hatshepsut's Temple

On the way to the Temple of Deir al-Bahri (Queen Hatshepsut's Temple) Mahmoud told us another interesting story on the supposed corruption in the Egyptian Museum. He claimed many of the ancient artifacts in the museum are high quality fakes made in Luxor by crooked craftsmen. He insisted several Museum officials commissioned the copies and sold the real artifacts to the highest bidder on the black-market for many years before being discovered. Mahmoud said even though many Egyptians know the truth we go along with the charade so tourist will keep coming to Egypt because we need the money they bring. Dispirited, he claimed nobody knew for sure how many pieces were forgeries but believed it to be in the thousands. The country of Egypt sent out a message to the world asking for any and all ill-gotten artifacts to be returned immediately with little to no response or help from other countries. I have no idea if any of its true, but what a story.

Everyone knows or should know London, Paris, Istanbul, New York and The Vatican possess Egyptian Obelisks. Most where taken after the fall or during the decline of the great Egyptian Empire with some being spoils of war. And I don't believe retrieving those lost artifacts would increase the number of visitors to Egypt. If anything it preserves them from corrupt officials and desperate residents. Even if the ugly stories are true, Egypt is still a magical place with unbelievable history everyone on Earth should visit before they die. It is definitely a top 5 place to visit, Period!

Queen Hatshepsut's Temple (Above)

Arriving at the Temple, Mahmoud warned us of the tourist trap at the entrance. It was the same deal as the Great Pyramids with a one way in, one way out path, filled with desperate people trying to make a living selling crap to tourists. At this point we were over the rude and forceful tactics used by the relentless trinket pushers. Only a few days in and we acted like seasoned vets with a tight group formation while watching each other's blindside as we barreled ahead like a well-oiled machine. Straight to the ticket booth before catching a ride on the little train that took us out to the main site. It was a very large structure that had been reassembled years ago for the soul purpose of attracting tourists, much like the famous Roman ruins in Italy. Unbelievably several frankincense tree roots were discovered surrounding the Temple in the late 1800's, thought to have been brought from the land of Punt by order of Queen Hatshepsut as depicted on the Temple walls. A permanent marker was erected near the entrance displaying one of the roots. As I stopped to take a picture Mahmoud casually said the root is replaced every 6 months with a new root for appearance sake, but real roots were unearthed here many years ago and put in storage to preserve them. More smoke and mirrors.

A view of Luxor in the distance from Hatshepsut's Temple (Above)

Walking up the ramps to the building Mahmoud was saying something about the history of the Temple, but I tuned him out and captured the surrounding rock face and green landscape back toward Luxor. We walked around the Temple admiring the ancient art works painted on the walls as Ms. Rosemary found an admirer of her own. A little Egyptian fellow had tried rendering his services as a would-be tour guide and wouldn't take no for an answer. Where ever she went he went, like a crazy 3D shadow. I found it amusing, she did not. As we moved in to help her, the fellow finally turned his unwanted services toward a pair of hapless young ladies.

The ramp leading to the main hall of the temple (Above)

Mahmoud gathered our small group to an open doorway with a nicely preserved painting protected from the suns rays. As we took a few photos a man came out of nowhere and warmly greeted Mahmoud. The man then held out his hand expecting a tip for letting us take the photos. Are you kidding me with this nickel and dime crap again! It's all part of the game in Egypt I guess, so with a smile I said sorry no cash and walked away. After that exchange we headed back toward the parking lot, taking the train to the exit and marching through the gauntlet of peddlers before finally resting in our cozy van.

We had spent most of the day on the West Bank of the Nile and now headed to Karnak and the Luxor temples back on the East Bank. No boat ride this time just a long ride in the van. Looking out the window it was easy to see how the Nile River gave life to the desert that is Egypt, with the countless rows of sugarcane, corn and various other veggies creating a sea of green fields. Farmers worked in the fields with machines and animals alike, living off the land as nature intended.

One of the many decorated columns at Queen Hatshepsut's Temple (Above)

Karnak Temple

Walking to the Karnak entrance (Above)

The drive to Karnak took longer than expected and the sun hung low in the sky as we walked through the entrance toward the 5000 year old ruins. It was a brisk 10 minute walk to the main site with the city walls growing taller with every step we took. The unbelievable scale of the complex boggled my mind as how and why the Pharaohs built something so massive. The city gate could hold King Kong at bay and the round decorated columns belonged on Mt. Olympus. The 3,500 year old decorative updates obviously influenced the Greeks and Romans and probably other ancient civilizations. The Karnak complex was once part of the famous city of Thebes, as described by the Greek poet Homer. The great temple was abandoned after the Roman Emperor Constantine ordered all pagan temples closed in 323 AD. Mahmoud said the whole complex lay partially buried by sand until the late 1800's with excavations still underway. The elaborate temple was just as grand as any Roman ruins we'd seen with a much longer history. During the height of Egyptian power Thebes competed with Memphis as Egypt's capital city and largest city of the old world.

Mahmoud walked us around the complex filling our heads with mountains of information as each section was added by a different Pharaoh, all over a 1000 year period. He showed us century's old Christian graffiti and explained why the curators moved Amenhotep lll's large red granite scarab. The story goes; if a woman circles the scarab seven times she will find love or become pregnant, so they decided to move the statue to a larger area of the Sacred Lake to accommodate the many desperate tourists.

The famous red granite beetle at Karnak (Above)

Standing at the bottom of the Karnak columns (Above)

(Above) Sacred Lake (Below) Statues guard the entrance to Karnak Temple

Luxor Temple

The entrance to Luxor Temple (Above)

The sun was now setting as we hastily made our way to the Luxor Temple just down the road. Once upon a time the two temples were connected by an ancient carriage way, but now lay divided by modern mans progress. It was the Luxor Temple we saw earlier in the day on our Nile River boat cruise. We had come full circle, ending back at the ancient city of Thebes now known as Luxor. Stars twinkled in the dark sky and lights cast distinguishing shadows of mammoth statues of long dead Pharaohs. The effect made for great photos as I happily preserved our memories. Unlike other ancient ruins Luxor Temple houses an 800 year old mosque still in use today. Mahmoud said the temple was built to honor Egyptian kings but had been a Roman and Christian headquarters before being converted to an Islamic stronghold. He also said the temple had become a landfill after centuries of rubbish were piled around it nearly covering the entire structure forming a manmade hillside. I guess that's one way to keep people out.

(Above) The 800 year old Mosque (Below) Giant Statues fill a courtyard

Posing in front of a Rameses Statue (Above)

It had been another very long day as we finally headed back to the hotel. We said our goodbyes and thanked Mahmoud and the driver for their services in the way of a tip. Noticing an English pub across the street we decided a nice burger and adult beverage was in order to celebrate our travels thus far. With a full belly and sleepy gaze we retired for the night and prepared for our flight back to Cairo the next morning.

An ancient road once connecting the Karnak and Luxor Temples (Above)

### Chapter 10

### Nile Dinner Cruise in Cairo

View from our hotel balcony in Cairo (Above)

Back in Cairo we were driven to a different hotel toward the center of town. It wasn't quite lunchtime and we still had 7 hours before a Nile River boat cruise, cheesy I know but it was our first time in Egypt. I hadn't really planned for this downtime so we just went for a walk to meet some locals and see some non-tourist places. Back in the grimy and crowded capital, it was really eye-opening to say the least. There were of course a lot of buildings with lively businesses and people walking to and fro, but it all looked worn down in a declining state. Trash lined the streets as if invisible to the residents with no one lifting a finger to clean it up. I assumed the public sanitation service was suspended or needed to be severally revamped. The whole city was in a state of disrepair with infrastructure projects moving at a snail's pace. The people seemed nice and accommodating in both cities, but the vibe in Cairo was so different than Luxor. More people more problems I guess.

Walking around the streets of Cairo (Above)

We found it strange random people stopped us to say thank you for visiting Egypt please tell all your friends it's safe. This happened several times randomly throughout our trip. They all had a similar speech so we wondered if it was a push by the Egyptian Government to attract more tourists. It felt friendly in a creepy kind of way. It's real easy to spot tourist in Cairo, with our wide-eyed stares and cautious demeanor. I thought it funny GCC country residents stuck out just as much as we westerners did with their crisp bright white Kanduras and finely tailored Shaylas and Abayas. All in stark contrast to the blue collar clothes found in Cairo. Taking a break from the streets we enjoyed a lite lunch in a nearby restaurant.

Unbeknownst to me, the girls had taken a silent vote on returning to the hotel for some downtime. I wanted to keep going, but had no real idea were to go or how to get there. Surprisingly many of the local businesses closed from 1 – 4 during the afternoon, a common practice in much of the world and what we referred to as naptime in the U.A.E. Well, that took the wind out of my sail so back to the hotel we went.

As time drew near for the dinner cruise we gathered in the lobby waiting for our driver. Not really sure who it would be or when they would arrive. This type of easy going attitude toward everyday affairs drove me crazy. Especially coming from the United States where we like to get things done in an orderly fashion instead of just letting it happen. Well, unless you're in a work union. This laid back way of life was very common in this part of the world and I viewed it as laziness and incompetence. But in reality things got finished and people lived their lives like anyone else with less stress and aggravation. Maybe we have it backwards and should just let things happen, if they happen. IDK.

After waiting in the lobby for what seemed like forever, a young man came bouncing in with a big smile on his face asking if we were ready for the night dinner cruise. It was the same deal as before with a quite driver and talkative tour guide. Our young guide was named Hazem and spoke very good English and several other languages. As we drove toward the Nile, Hazem talked about Egypt and answered any questions we had. Asking about his life in Cairo we learned he had decided to learn different languages at an early age knowing it would provide a better future for himself. After learning we lived in the U.A.E. he proudly announced his acceptance by Emirates airline as a new flight attendant. You could hear the excitement in his voice as he spoke of climbing the corporate ladder hoping to one day return home a successful man. Just A very enlightened story on the struggles of life in Egypt.

Arriving at the docks a familiar face greeted us as we said goodnight to Hazem. It was only fitting Muhammed would be our final tour guide in Egypt as he was also our first. He was there to not only greet us but other tourists that had booked the cruise through his company. The boat was large, able to accommodate 60 or more people with 2 decks and an open dining area with elegant décor. Muhammed sat us at one of the long linen covered tables and said enjoy as he hurried off catering to other guests. Our table had a mix of people from around the world. As the boat pulled away from the docks and drifted down the Nile we introduced ourselves enjoying lively conversation amongst our table. All were couples or groups except for one lone traveler, a tiny Chinese woman in her mid- twenties, as timid as a mouse but as brave as any man. She had decided to travel the world solo with style and grace, forging ahead with no restrictions or limitations from the outdated preconceived role of a helpless woman struggling in man's cruel world.

The delicious buffet dinner was Arabian themed with plenty to choose from, serving something for even the most pickiest of eaters. The waiters poured drinks as we dined on lamb, kebabs, curries, and veggies before sampling different sugary treats suitable for Egyptian Pharaohs. Filling refreshed and ready for a stroll we ventured up deck for the winter night starlight show. The breeze was chilly as we sailed the Nile, gazing at the bright city lights before returning below for the after dinner show.

The first act was a group of men playing live instruments and beating drums like there was no tomorrow. A man sang a few songs with the crowd singing in rhythm. Most of the songs were in Arabic with a few English tunes thrown in for good measure. People stood up and clapped their hands and sang along, really enjoying the show. I in turn enjoyed watching them enjoy the show. A pair of male dancers, dressed like a cross between a matador and waiter, preformed a strange ballet. I'm sure it had some cultural significance, but I didn't know what it was meant to represent. Next came the belly dancer, giggling and gyrating her way around the energized crowd. She wore a traditional costume that exposed most of her naked body. It seemed strange a mostly Muslim society would accept such behavior and even encourage it by clapping hands and dancing with her. People were posing for pictures, mostly men, but some small children joined in on the fun.

The final dancer, a male dressed in mostly yellow with a decoratively embroidered vest and purple head wrap, spun in circles twirling his rainbow colored skirt layered a top a second yellow colored skirt. As he spun round and round he held 3 tambourine shaped items each snugly fitting into the next, performing several talented displays of carefully choreographed movements before throwing the props to an assistant. Never slowing down or stopping as he went into the second part of his act. As he feverishly whirled round he raised the colored skirt above his head to reveal a second rainbow colored skirt, causing an unusual but enjoyable flowing appearance. Still spinning he slowly began to take the top skirt off over his head before folding it into the form of a wrapped baby, holding it dear as he finally stopped at the roar of the crowd. After a short break he performed a short encore before whirling the skirt over onlooker's heads as they screamed with delight. I thought the cheesy touristy Nile dinner cruise was very entertaining and well worth the price. This Egyptian folk dance is known as Tanoura and is thought to have originated from the Sufi Islamic inspired Whirling Dervish dance in Turkey. All I know is the guy must have been in great shape as he barely broke a sweat the whole time. This could be a cool new workout exercise coming soon! Not for me, but somebody.

It was getting late when Muhammed let us know the van was waiting to take us back to the hotel and just like that our time in Egypt came to a close. Only one more nights rest before an early morning flight to Turkey. With the Great Pyramids and ancient temples crossed off my bucket list, I searched for inner answers on the meaning of life. Ancient Egyptians seemed obsessed with death and the hereafter as some of us obsess about what they knew in pursuit of answers to our own life and death questions. Egypt had surprised me in many unexpected ways giving me yet another perspective on life leaving me to re-evaluate what matters the most in mine.

Old Cairo (Above)
Chapter 11

### Turkey

View of the Karaköy neighborhood along the Golden Horn in Istanbul (Above)

Leaving the warm winter temperatures of Abu Dhabi for the unpredictable weather of Turkey was part of the travel experience, but after living in the desert for so long we didn't have many winter clothes. The weather in Egypt had been chilly, but dry and sunny. Flying into Turkey the clouds looked full of rain and snow covered the nearby mountain peaks, an ominous sign of things to come. As soon as we walked off the plane the cold damp air wrapped around us like a wet blanket sending chills throughout our bodies. With chattering teeth we made our way through the surprisingly modern but crowded airport. The plan was to take a taxi to the Galata Tower thinking it would be easy for the driver to find, or possibly already know its location.

As we walked toward the exit Ms. Rosemary spotted a limo service advertising a round trip price that seemed very fair. After closer inspection the cost was comparable to a taxi, but with less hassle and solved the problem of transportation back to the airport for our flight home. Agreeing to the terms and conditions we followed the driver to our private van. Surprising to us, many Turkish people didn't speak English. The guy who sold us the car service spoke English so we assumed the driver would too, only finding out he didn't after we reached our van. I mean he spoke no English at all. We didn't understand the words coming out of his mouth and he didn't understand the words coming out of our mouths. I said Galata Tower and he looked at me like I said a curse word and maybe I did, I have no idea. Handing him a printout of the apartment location he seemed to understand where we needed to go as he pulled out of the parking deck and headed down the street. I had no idea if we were heading in the right direction or to be sold as slaves. Thinking we would find out when we got there. Samantha gave me the look and I gave her the look back. What was I supposed to do?

We decided to try Airbnb after reading many online reviews for renting a private apartment instead of the conventional hotel room; it seemed like a great idea. We found a great 2 bed 2 bath apartment next to the Galata Tower full of glowing reviews of past visitors. I asked Samantha to WhatsApp our host Nadia and let her know we were on the way. Samantha fidgeted in her seat anxiously awaiting a response. Our spirts were lifted as what looked like the world renowned Blue Mosque came into view as we drove along the Istanbul roadway. It could have been the Blue Mosque or another of several other large mosques in the city; it didn't matter because we needed a jolt of excitement to get us back on track. Crossing a bridge I could now see the Galata Tower setting atop a hill and knew we were traveling in the right direction. The streets were steeper than expected and would prove a formidable foe in our explorations. Stopping half way up the hill the driver motioned for the address, well I think that's what he was meaning. Showing him the number for our apartment, he just threw his hands in the air. That's when Samantha got a message from Nadia. She was waiting on the street and asked if we needed any guidance. Well yes we did! We arrived at the apartment in just a few minutes after Nadia spoke with the driver on the phone.

It was now snowing as we walked up the dark cobblestoned alley entering the ground floor of our building. Luckily Nadia spoke good English with a thick Turkish accent, which sounded Russia to us. The neighborhood was more authentic and less touristy with only small hotels near the Galata Tower. I previously told

Samantha and sent her an email that the apartment was on the sixth floor with no elevator, but she acted like it was news to her. I had emailed several apartment options and this was the one everybody agreed on. It was a little late for buyer's remorse now! The large stairwell was intimidating as it wrapped around the inside of the building, but there were no other options. Up the stairs we went, one step at a time, stopping every 2 floors for a breather. Even in the cool temperature I could feel sweat form on my forehead. Samantha and I only had 2 small bags and a camera bag. Ms. Rosemary had a larger bag with that heavy cat statue from Luxor in it, so I grabbed it half way up the climb.

Finally making it to the top we piled into the two bedroom apartment. Nadia's father was waiting on us and offered to carry the luggage to the bedrooms. We were like; we carried it this far I think we can manage from here buddy. Nadia's father didn't speak English so she interpreted for him. He said something to me I couldn't make out. He laughed at me and walked away. Curious I asked Nadia to translate for me. She said he couldn't believe a man living in the U.A.E. didn't know as-salaam alaykum. Well peace be upon him too. The Turkish accent had me at a loss. It sounded so foreign with a Russia feel and a strange mix mash of vowels. Stupidly I assumed since Turkey was a Muslim country they would speak more of an Arabic language. Not surprising the dress was also not very Arabic. The people, in Istanbul anyway, dressed more like Western Europe with women and men wearing pants and shirts instead of Kanduras and Abayas.

Nadia showed us the apartment answering any questions we had before handing over the keys and saying goodnight. Feeling a bit peckish we headed back down stairs to find some Turkish cuisine, the whole while dreading the walk back up to the apartment later. Just around the corner were several nice restaurants full of happy diners. Randomly picking one we had our first Turkish meal. Luckily the menu had pictures with some English captions as the waiter only knew certain English phrases. Starting with a glass of wine and trying an appetizer before committing to a main course we settled in for a nice long dinner. Reflecting on our time in Egypt and planning our time in Turkey as people came and went from tables around us. After a few more glasses of wine and some delicious food we ventured into the cold winter night exploring local shops as snow melted in our hair. Knowing the stairs up to the apartment would do us in for the night we headed that way while liquid energy still coursed through our veins.

View from our apartment balcony (Above)
Chapter 12

### Ephesus Day Tour

I only booked one tour for our trip to Istanbul deciding to wing it since the city seemed easy to navigate from the many blogs and videos I had found online. It was a full day tour with a short flight from Istanbul to the ancient city of Ephesus. A private car would pick us up at a nearby hotel driving us to the local airport for our flight. The hotel was only about 40 yards from our building so we grabbed a quick coffee before standing in the rainy street, waiting on our ride. Well, Ms. Rosemary and Samantha grabbed a coffee, I loathe the stuff. A van pulled up and a man walked over to us and said, well I have no idea what he said, but I gave him a receipt for the tour and he ushered us into the van. Deja-vu all over again with the no English stuff. The U.A.E. had spoiled us with only needing to know English.

Dropped off at a different airport and left to our own devices, we did find our flight and landed in Izmir airport on time. Samantha rightfully criticized the tour; compared to the Egyptian tours it lacked a certain finesse and personal touch. The language barrier didn't help matters, but I guess three adults living abroad should be able to find a local flight to a near-by city. We had the tickets in hand and the airport was modern and easy to navigate except most signs were Turkish only.

Making our way to the exit, a happy little woman named Ela greeted us with a sign reading Jolly. She was amazed my last name was Jolly, but seemed disappointed I showed up instead of some amazing person. Some old fat American man instead of some terrific unknown person her mind had created. What can I say, I am what I am. She was very energetic as she guided us to our private van. Her English was good with a comforting demeanor, but the driver no speak a the English. Is our fault the world has adopted English as the universal language? I blame MTV and YouTube. It was an hour drive till our first stop near the town of Seluck. The plan was to see the House of Mary, Ancient City of Ephesus and the Tomb of John the Apostle.
House of Virgin Mary

Crowds gathered around the little House of Mary (Above)

The first stop would be the "House of Virgin Mary", thought to be the final home of the Mary, mother of Jesus Christ. As we drove up the steep mountains of Ephesus, I thought why would anyone live on this stupidly high mountain when all the resources lay miles away toward the sea. I believe it's more of a tourist trap than actual fact as the only basis of the whole site comes from a delusional German nun born the late 1700's. She claimed John the Apostle built Mary a house near Ephesus and lived there until her death. The actual house or shrine was constructed over the ruins of a small roofless structure in the late 1800's. I guess it's possible the stories could be true but I have no idea. The little house is set high on the mountain surrounded by a lush forest very reminiscent of western N.C. There was a parking lot able to accommodate large tour buses with a well-worn path leading to the shrine. An old well at the site is believed to possess healing powers by many, but you wouldn't catch me drinking from it.

The wishing wall and water fountains (Above)

A wishing wall located below Mary's House is covered in cloth and paper notes placed there by Christian pilgrims. It's an old pagan ritual thought to bring good fortune or help with illness. Several fountains lined the wall tapping water from a spring also thought to have healing and fertility powers. I drank from it without issue. Having our fill of Christian folklore we headed back down the mountain to roam the ancient Greek ruins of Ephesus.

Ancient City of Ephesus

Thankfully the rain had stopped but the wind blew hard enough to cause tears in our eyes as Ela led us into the ruins following an ancient pathway leading all the way to the now silted port. Geological factors had created the natural sea port and closed it after several millennia's of prosperous trade. As we walked down the ancient streets I could feel the history filling my thoughts and wished the residents had cameras to document past events. The crazy stories they could tell and what unbelievable reality shows we would have to learn true history firsthand!

The city was well thought out with separated living areas and commercial spaces as well as public spaces to control the masses. The ancient city of Ephesus was amazing to me as it was ridiculously huge and once the pearl of the old world. Excavations found evidence of settlements dating back to the Bronze Age around 1500 B.C. Ela explained several earthquakes had leveled the site in the 600's A.D. until restorations began in the 20th century. Ela then got her fangirl on as she spouted historical rhetoric filling our heads with fascinating facts and ancient myths surrounding the now dead city of Ephesus. Claiming the city was mentioned in both the Christian Bible and Islamic Quran. The Bible described it as one of the seven churches and both the Quran and Bible mentions it in the story of the seven sleepers.

Marble street connecting parts of the ancient city (Above)

Ephesus was truly a metropolis of its day with running water for baths and sewer systems supplied by terra cotta pipes found throughout the city. Ela pointed out a carving of a twisted serpent on a staff similar to the symbol used for medicine today. It probably represented something else back then, but who knows for sure? The streets were lined with marble pavers that had manmade grooves for better traction during slippery weather.

A block with the Staff of Asclepius carved in it thought to represent medicine (Above)

Another interesting feature was the public Latrines, typically a small courtyard housing long benches with many holes and notches cutout allowing many people to conduct their business amongst friends. Ela joked the wealthy would pay others to sit on the cold slab first so it would be warm when they used it. I'm not sure what they wiped with, but read a sea sponge or cloth was placed on a stick giving us "the wrong end of a stick" phrase. Most people shared the public sponges while the wealthy carried their own. I'm not saying it's true, just something I read. I know its gross but it beats using your hand. And this is why Muslims don't eat with their left hand.

The small trench in front of the seats had running water so people could wash their hands after finishing their business. How many "civilized" people alive today would be caught dead in a place like that with open toilets and sharing cleaning sticks! Forget about the germs being passed around, the social trauma would probably cause most to seek out professional help. These were of course made for men only so woman had to use the bathroom at home and maybe a nearby bush if the situation arose.

Ancient Roman public restrooms (Above)

Ela directed us toward the Celsus Library which was partially reconstructed in the early 1900's giving us the now famous 2 story facade. We walked down the street and then up the steps leading into the once grand library thinking how much things had changed since it was first constructed 1,900 years ago. Libraries once the center of all known knowledge for ancient societies had become a forgotten second thought thanks in part to computers and the internet. The carefully constructed Library had double lined walls to help preserve the precious 12,000 scrolls and act as a tomb for Gaius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, the governor of the province of Asia. It was eventually destroyed be earthquakes and fire, left forgotten over the centuries before its modern day revival.

Several popular buildings lay scattered on the ground masking the forgotten grandeur of the Gymnasiums once equipped with bathing pools, recreation rooms, saunas and courtyards. Many Gymnasiums held classes for the youth teaching art, literature and sports. Following Ela toward the Stadium I snapped several pictures of the lifeless ruins now the reconstructed time capsule of a forgotten society.

Remains of the Celsus Library (Above)

A small group of young girls laughed as they posed in an open field as a companion ran around them while holding a selfie stick. They were quite amusing so we watched them for several minutes before moving on. Several other groups of tourists wandered around following other tour guides injecting some life back into the once bustling city. Ela drew our attention to a marble paver on the ancient pathway. Carved in it were pictures of a left foot, a woman's appearance, a broken heart and a cross or arrow; supposedly showing the way to a bordello promising to mend any man's broken heart. Could this be proof to verify the world's oldest profession?

Thought to be directions to a brothel (Above)

Following the road downhill toward the port was the Roman Amphitheater, built into the hillside of Mt. Pion, large enough to seat 25,000 spectators. The marble promenade led straight from the port to the impressive amphitheater showcasing the cities high profile status and growing riches. We walked through a tunnel to enter the arena and sat where bloodthirsty Romans once cheered for the life and death of brave Gladiators. Well maybe not life or death chants, but that's how they portrayed it on Spartacus. Leaving the girls down below I had to climb to the top of the seats for a spectacular view of the city and what would have been the port.

(Above) The Amphitheater (Below) The main road leading out to the port

Basilica of John the Apostle

The tomb of John the Apostle (Above)

After several hours of touring the ancient rubble of Ephesus we found ourselves at the exit ready for the rubble known as the Basilica of St. John, only a short drive down the road. Built on what was believed to be the burial site of John the Apostle on the slopes of Ayasoluk Hill. Very odd people just built buildings on top of grave sites. I can just imagine the anti this or anti that groups protesting against such an atrocity today. Not that we don't build on former gravesites for personal gains. Hell, we move whole cemeteries in the name of progress. All that remanded of the church today was a few columns and floor coverings. The supposed tomb was covered by a large marble cap with a plaque naming St. Johns burial site. He died in Ephesus while still spreading the word of God, known as Christianity. There are no bones in the tomb nor have there ever been any bones in the tomb. It is believed he ascended to heaven upon his death to join the other apostles with Jesus. On top of the hill sets the Grand Fortress also known as Ayasoluk Castle. The view of the city and surrounding lands were great as we walked around the abandoned fort. Unfortunately the wind was really strong and the rain returned forcing us back to the van.

The Grand Fortress overlooking the town of Selcuk( Above)

View from the fort (Above)

The last historical site for the day was the Temple of Artemis, originally known as one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. To our utter disappointment we arrived at a nearly empty field with one lone column standing to represent the once enormous structure. A depression about the size of a football field gave us the general dimensions and a billboard displayed a diagram of what it may have looked like when built. Our guide didn't even get out of the van for this waste of time destination.

The Temple of Artemis ruins (Above)

One thing Turkey didn't have was the endless droves of merchandise hustlers found in Egypt. There were a few gift shops but no one harassing us as we explored the tourist attractions. It was very nice to be left alone and able to enjoy our vacation. But as if on que an elderly man approached me asking if I wanted to buy an Authentic Roman coin. I knew it was a fake and said no thank you. As we walked to the van the man followed. I was the last one in the van and the man just kept trying to sell this cheap souvenir for 20 euros. Realizing we didn't have a souvenir from Ephesus I offered him 5 euros. Angrily he stomped his foot and said 10. I laughed and shut the door in this face as he just kept talking. Ela quickly apologized for the man's behavior assuring us that was very uncommon in turkey. We just laughed advising her to never go to Egypt if that kind of behavior bothered her.

Sales Pitch for Lunch

Ela had arranged for us to have a late lunch on a family run farm. A little place nestled in the countryside with orchards and live chickens and silk worms. As we arrived at the quaint farm a nice man led us to a large enclosed gazebo overlooking the orchards. Since it was a private tour it was just the three of us and Ela in a space big enough for 20 people. If felt kind of weird, but that's what we paid for. Most of the food was from the farm which seemed to make it taste better. Probably all in our heads, but it was a delicious three course meal.

This gave us some time to talk to Ela as a person and not a guide. She was a lovely person who had studied several years at a university before getting her license as a tour guide. She seemed to really enjoy her job and was engaged to another tour guide. We kind of took turns asking her questions about Turkey and answering any she had about the States and Canada. I asked about her outlook on Islam. She said most Turkish people had a modern view and focused on what's important in life and not hung-up on traditions. Two big differences from Arabic countries were being married to more than one person at a time was against the law and accepted dress was more western and practical. Samantha asked were the Turkish language originated from and with a confused look on her face Ela said Turkey. We said yes it is Turkish, but some words sound Russian, some sound Arabic and sometimes German. What influenced the sounds and words? Ela repeated it is Turkish this is how we speak. Switching gears I asked if she ever tried pork or wine. Grinning she said while visiting Rome she accidentally ate pork and she liked it. She said it was ok to have the occasional glass of wine, but never too much at one time. Ela was proud to be from Turkey and loved living near Izmir.

After lunch the owner led us to a small touristy looking area for a demonstration on silk harvesting. The cocoon pods were placed in a basin of hot water making them pliable. A woman used a straw brush to snare the then loose ends and placed them in an antique looking machine used to spin the silk into useable threads. Something they real pushed in Turkey was hand woven rugs. It was this moment we realized the whole lunch was an elaborate tourist trap, albeit with good food and atmosphere. We all gave each other the "look" as the owner went into sales mode describing the whole process and the many hours it took to produce a real hand woven rug.

A worker extracting silk threads from cocoons (Above)

The woman now sat at a weaving station going through the many steps of making a one of a kind rug. It looked very complicated as she used hand shears to cut the pile to the desired length. I found it very interesting to watch, but I had no intentions of buying a rug. How would we get it home? We lived in a villa with tile in every room and I liked the cool feel on my feet in the 100 plus degree temperatures of the desert. We weren't this guy's target consumers, but they still went through the motions none the less.

The owner led us into the showroom full of his finest rugs as two assistants unrolled them and placed them at our feet. He wanted us to touch them and walk on them and appreciate all the hard work involved in making them and we just wanted to get the hell out of there. It occurred to me they should make small souvenir sized samples for travelers, something to hang on a wall or sit on a table. We would've paid 50 euros for a handmade keepsake and they would spend less time producing a saleable item. I call that a win win situation.

After a few awkward minutes we thanked them for their kindness and walked outside where Ela was waiting for us. Ela apologized for the sales pitch but said the farm owner insisted on it as part of the deal for the lunch. Of course he did, tit for tat is the way of the world. It was a long ride back to the airport giving us time to reflect on the day's activities as we gazed out the window enjoying the Turkish countryside. As customary protocol dictates we tipped Ela and the driver before catching our short flight back to Istanbul. I understand the need to tip but only if the person(s) deserve it. I dislike attempts at shaming you into tipping but once you make a human connection with somebody it's hard not to.

I used the term rug to describe what they called a carpet because to me a carpet means wall to wall floor coverings. And it reminded me of Aladdin's flying carpet story, which is weird I know.

After the short flight back to Istanbul we found the same driver from earlier waiting on us. That was such a relief because even though it was part of the tour package the details were never revealed to us, or at least not in English. After another long day of sightseeing we were finally back at our temporary hilltop headquarters. So it was another rainy and cold night in Istanbul and another local restaurant around the corner for us. This one seemed a little upscale and pricey, but the waiter spoke decent English. The food was spot on and the atmosphere regional. Feeling adventurous we decided to try a popular local drink called Raki, liquor usually drank straight down the hatch. The cloudy shots were placed in front of us and we gave it a go. It had a licorice taste that none of us really cared for that reminded me of a root beer. The girls had some Turkish coffee to wash it down and I opted for a hot chocolate, don't judge me.

### Chapter 13

### Istanbul

The world famous Blue Mosque (Above)

The next morning we headed toward the Sultan Ahmet Mosque area for some sightseeing. Hopping in a taxi we had no idea where he was taking us after unsuccessfully trying to communicate, but where do tourists want to go. The 400 year old mosque is known worldwide as the Blue Mosque from the blue tiles used in its construction. The forecast was snow mixed with freezing rain, something we hadn't seen or felt in probably two years. And after a few days of wet cold clothes in Istanbul I didn't care if I ever saw it again. Ms. Rosemary and Samantha thought it was pretty and made them homesick for the holidays. My old aching bones had we wishing for summer weather as my knee and elbow were giving me a fit. A car crash in my teens had damaged my knee and a tumble out a little red wagon resulted in a fractured elbow when I was only 6 years old. Kids played rough back then.

Despite the bad weather we were greeted at the Blue Mosque by a very long line and patiently waited our turn to venture inside. A strange man started a conversation with us and our spider senses started tingling. He had a very pleasant demeanor and spouted interesting facts about the history of the mosque, but whatever he was selling we weren't buying. We talked amongst ourselves hoping to discourage any further interaction. Approaching the entrance, plastic bags were provided to place our shoes in before we could enter the mosque. The floor was cold and wet, soaking our socks as we walked through the main door. Once inside the dry plush carpet felt good giving us some comfort from the winter weather.

The Blue Mosque was very large with colorful tiles covering the high ceilings and a large chandler hanging low in the center. While the ceiling had many blue colored tiles half of the ceiling was in fact white. As we walked around, the strange man from earlier started acting like he was our tour guide and did a pretty good job of it. His stories made our visit better with many insights on the past and current history of the mosque. Succumbing to his charms we allowed this stranger to be our guide.

The countless colored tiles inside the blue Mosque (Above)

The main dome of the Blue Mosque (Above)

As we exited the Mosque several tourists slipped their shoes back on just before the exit door. An angry security guard barked at them that this was a holy place and shoes were not allowed in the building. Looking at the crowd he angrily said, can you people not read! The look of the tourists faces said I'm sorry please forgive me, but the guard made them take their shoes back off threating to have them arrested. I didn't put my shoes back on until I was clearly past the exit, cold wet feet be damned I wasn't getting arrested in Istanbul.

Safely back outside in the snowy weather we talked to our new companion. I expected he wanted a tip and wondered how much he had in mind. But to my surprise he requested a quick visit to his employers carpet shop. So this guy went out and selected random tourists on the ruse of a would be tour guide just to entice people back to a carpet shop. The carpet business must be tuff in Turkey. We reluctantly agreed to his demand as we followed him down a few side streets away from the crowded touristy areas.

Of course this set off my danger Will Robinson alarm in my head, carefully scoping the area for any signs of trouble. The street looked fine except it was completely deserted which only added to my anxiety. We were led into a small showroom with three other men were apparently waiting on us. I'm sure the look on our faces was anything but happy to be there when the owner introduced himself and offered tea and coffee. A little surprised by his generosity we declined still waiting for some imaginary monster to spring on us at any moment. Next as if from a cheesy movie with the clap of the owners hands the two other gentlemen sprang into action. Each grabbing a rug and rolling them out in front of us as the owner went into the long spill of the handmade process. With a sigh of relief we all took in a big breath of air finally able to relax. Since this wasn't our first rodeo we cut the act short explaining we had no real interest in a rug and hurriedly made our exit. That was a very interesting experience on our first day exploring Istanbul.

The walkway connecting the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia (Above)
Hagia Sophia

Making our way back to the crowded streets and perceived safety in numbers we headed to the Hagia Sophia. A Christian church from 537 A.D. until 1453 A.D. when it was converted to a mosque, built on the site of two previous churches dating back to 360 A.D. With the fall of the Ottoman Empire and rise of the Turkish Republic, Hagia Sophia was converted to a museum in 1935. The Hagia Sophia is located across from the Blue Mosque separated by a large square.

The line for the museum was long and the cold rain made the wait seem to take forever. The never ending line was full of people holding umbrellas who carelessly swayed back and forth nearly taking my eye out several times. Personal space just isn't a concern in this part of the world. Strong gusts of wind didn't help matters causing many cheap umbrellas to collapse before being discarded in the overflowing trash bins. Next time we travel I'm bringing ponchos no matter where we go. I found two while walking to the Hagia Sophia, but they wanted 20 euros for each cheaply made poncho. Back home we would have paid maybe $2 for each. I tried to negotiate, but he knew somebody would pay the piper in this weather.

We finally made our way into the enormous structure and out of the elements after the 40 minute interlude of waiting in line. Walking through the gigantic doors was intimidating enough, but walking into the main hall I thought I heard trumpets and harps played by angels. Well, not really but the visual effect was striking and it amazed me people could build such a monument nearly 1500 years ago. While today's society has far surpassed those ancient building technics we seldom match the lasting beauty and purpose bestowed by our ancestors. The many massive columns stood testament to man's potential and fortitude toward common goals and desires. Some of the columns are thought to have been brought from the mighty Temple of Artemis and others from Egypt. That's without modern roads, eighteen wheelers or trains, just shear manpower and inclination to get things done. That is truly manmade.

Walking to the Hagia Sophia in the snow (Above)

The unusually tall two-story building was showing some wear and tear but was under renovation during our visit. The size of the building made it difficult to get decent pictures while avoiding the bulky scaffolding with people pushing through the crowds looking for a decent vantage point. Taking the visibly worn stairs we made our way to the second level. Walking on the cracked and uneven marble floors I hoped the old Church could support the heavy foot traffic. The views from the second level were better in my opinion causing us to linger longer than we should have but I'm thankful we got to see the old medieval church and wander its ancient halls.

Inside view of the Hagia Sophia (Above)

Heading back out into the cold we searched nearby places for lunch, finding a quaint two-story gem across the way. It felt good to be inside a heated building with hot coffee and tea again. The tight seated restaurant was very crowded, but decently priced for the quality of food. As we relaxed in the modern comforts with full bellies and renewed vigor we hit the cold streets of Istanbul once again. In my opinion the food in Turkey and Egypt tasted much better than the food back in Abu Dhabi. The blandness probably comes from the harsh living conditions endured by the ancient Emirati people with few places to grow crops or spices.
The Grand Bazaar

We followed the masses to the Grand Bazaar (Above)

The Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world which made a perfect place to get out of the dreary weather. We walked through the crooked streets hoping to find the market with little guidance other than a cheap brochure map. We liked exploring the lively city and finding hidden gems around each corner, but the lousy weather was damping our moods. After a few wrong turns and a couple circles we found the Grand Bazaar entrance. I think the easiest way would have been to just follow any large group going in that general direction since it's the most visited attraction in all of Istanbul. Of course it was crowded, but not impossible to navigate. Most of the city is hilly and the Bazaar is no exception with around 7.6 acres of covered real estate housing over 3,000 shops. We had no idea which direction to walk so we just walked around aimlessly stopping at anything that caught our eye. Once a world renowned one stop buy all market place now seemed more of a never ending tourist shop.

The main commodities in the early years were textiles, jewelry, carpets, furniture, books, shoes and spices. You can still find those things sold in it today, but probably most with made in P.R.C. (China) labels on them. The 550 year old Grand Bazaar has been destroyed by fire and earthquakes many times in its past only to be rebuilt bigger and better each time.

One of the many shops found in the Grand Bazaar (Above)

We all found a few trinkets to take home and lost a few because we couldn't find the same shop again. Lost somewhere in-between 1950 and 2014 as the place was a confusing maze with people no doubt still roaming the covered streets from years ago. We learned if you see something you want just buy it. Another hard thing to find was the toilets. We searched quite a while before stumbling across the ladies room. The look on the girls faces was one of relief and a look I needed very soon. As customary in Europe bathrooms require money before entry, usually .50 cents to 1 euro per person.

The Grand Bazaar is a colorful place full of colorful people (Above/Below)

I asked the girls to stay in a certain area so I could find them again and off I went looking for a dark corner or back alley to do my business. I only made a few right hand turns before I saw a little symbol of a man used worldwide for toilets. I made a beeline toward this little dirty looking doorway and headed down a narrow tunnel. At this point all I needed was a drain in the floor. I could see a very large man sitting on a stool next to a turnstile gate at the end of the passageway. I had my money in hand ready to toss it at him and leap over the gate when a scene from a bad spy movie slapped me in the face stopping me in my tracks. The small tunnel emptied into a large open room full of half-naked men wearing only towels, if that. In the center of the room was a large fountain and I can only assume it was some kind of Turkish bath hidden away from the hustle and bustle of the Bazaar foot traffic.

I have no idea how long I stood there staring at a bunch of old sweaty naked men as time stood still in my mind. The guy at the gate said something snapping me back to reality. I turned his way as he was repeating what he had said, but I didn't understand the words coming out of his mouth. My mind was trying to process and delete what I had just seen and my body was telling me to get to the toilet pronto or we would be buying some new pants. In my haste to give the money to the gate keeper I dropped the damn coin. It rolled in the direction of the naked old man party and I hoped to god it stopped soon. Not willing to take a chance I leaped forward stepping on the coin before it rolled into "no mans" land. My sudden movement then drew the attention of every man in the room with all eyes now intensely gazing at me. This was not a good feeling, not at all. I quickly tried picking up the coin, but it was suctioned to the wet and slimy floor. I fumbled around on the floor sliding the coin around trying to get a firm grip as one of the strange men bent down and picked the coin up for me. Yeah, he was naked! Add no, gravity is not kind to old people. I thanked this kind gentleman for his assistants and wiped the filthy coin on my shirt before paying the gate man.

It was an odd combination of sweet relief and deep sorrow as I finished my business as quick as possible and got the hell out of there. Still in a haze I found the girls were they said they would be and told them about what I saw leaving out a few pertinent details better saved for a later date. I had read about Turkish baths and spas, suggesting to Ms. Rosemary and Samantha they should try one on our visit, but never pushed the issue after that day.

Having our fill of the Grand Bazaar, and probably scaring me for life, we headed back out on the wild streets of old Istanbul. It was getting dark as the temperature fell near freezing with strong gusts of wind taking our breath away as we walked. Not knowing our current location we looked for a taxi or metro stop, with neither insight. Using the useless brochure map as the wind tore it to pieces caused a little tension between us, but we pushed onward finally hailing a cab. We all jumped in the warm cab and felt instant relief. The cab driver didn't know English but he knew Galata Tower and that is all we needed him to know. Arriving at the Tower Ms. Rosemary paid the cab ride handing over a fifty or so she thought. The driver very quickly handed her back a five saying she made an honest mistake. She apologized and handed over another fifty and all was well. After making the long climb back up to the apartment and changing into some dry clothes she discovered the driver had swindled her out of fifty dollars. She knew how much money she had and remembered having two 50's and now she had none. The crooked cabby had pulled a fast one on her with the old switcharoo. Something I had read about but never experienced before. We chalked it up to a learning experience causing us to be more cautious in the future.

It can get a little crowded in the Grand Bazaar (Above)

Rain Delayed

The next day we planned on visiting the Topkapi Palace and made it to the ticket line. We waited 30 minutes in the rain and the line never moved. While fat rain drops thumped my head I noticed the entrance line had grown larger as nobody was able to enter the museum and it was thirty minutes past opening time. Deciding to try again later in the day we walked the streets browsing the many shops along the street.

It seemed to me many of the shop owners had really high prices on certain items barely budging in negotiations. We tried several places selling small tapestries and always got the suggested manufacturer sticker price. I asked one guy about a cool looking piece and he quoted me 100 euros more than the sticker! I offered the crook 20 euros and walked out.

Eventually we found ourselves back at the crowded restaurant area near the Hagia Sophia. The smell of food caused our tummies to growl for sustenance as our noses led the way to a Turkish Steakhouse. A little off the beaten path and not super crowded, but served delicious food and wine. We sat and chatted for a while discussing where to go next when two women burst in the door soaked from head to toe. They appeared to be a mother and daughter pair each speaking with thick Western European accents. Several of the waiters pandered to their every notion even turning our heater toward the young daughter so she could dry her hair. She was definitely a looker and she worked that angle for all it was worth. A couple of the waiters forgot about their tables as they focused on the flirty pair. It was very amusing to watch while waiting for a break in the rain as it appeared the experienced duo received complimentary coffee before chatting up a guy for some free smokes. This behavior was a fine example of anti-feminism from a pair of females playing the help me because I have a vagina card. With that said, nobody forced the waiters to help the two women, but a wise man once said _"all men spend nine months trying to get out of a vagina and most men spend the rest of their lives trying to get back in one"._ Nature gave man strength and women power so I guess it balances out in the end. Thankfully the rain soon stopped and once back outside we headed to the Spice Market.

Walking around the restaurant area (Above)

The Spice Bazaar was smaller than the Grand Bazaar with tons of people bustling around haggling each other for the best prices on the many goods sold there. Erected beside the New Mosque in the 1660's it's sometimes referred to as the Egyptian Bazaar. It's hard to comprehend a market in Turkey is older than many countries around the world including Turkey itself. Fact be told several of the markets in modern day Turkey have seen whole civilizations come and go has the show goes on day after day year after year.

The aroma of the different spices and herbs filled the air creating some very interesting combinations. We sampled several Turkish delight flavors with pistachio being my favorite. Samantha found some Turkish Apple Tea similar to some we had in a restaurant several nights earlier. The shop owner sold us some cinnamon claiming it would enhance the apple flavor and it did. The smell of it the reminded us of Christmas time back home. Venturing into a jewelry shop Ms. Rosemary spotted several unique charms for her travel bracelet. The shop owner was well weathered and played the haggle game with ease as Samantha fell in love with the color changing Zultanite gem known as the Sultan Stone. The unique stones are known to change from green to purple depending on the light source.

As we negotiated, the shop owner asked where we were from hoping to coax more money from the supposed rich Westerners. We caught him off guard by saying Abu Dhabi was home for the past couple years. Changing gears he said " _the rich Arabs come to my shop and demand only the best pieces, but only satisfied with ridiculously high prices. If I charge to little they buy from someone else, but if I charge double or triple they happily buy my jewelry". They have too much money and not enough brain._ Seeing a way in for a good price I quickly sided with the owner reminding him we were just employees of the superrich and didn't have a lot of money to spend. I said we are three poor travelers who dreamed of visiting Istanbul to see all the wonderful sites and learn about its long history. He knew what my angle was but played along anyway as I asked what would the Turkish price for the ring be today? He gave us a number and I said not the Arab price the Turkish price. I counteroffered half of what he quoted and said cash today as I reached my hand out holding the money. A sly grin crept on his face as he said no problem my friends. Ms. Rosemary asked for the Turkish price and received a discount as-well before we said farewell to our new found friend.

Making our way through the spice market (Above/Below)

Exiting the Spice Bazaar we found ourselves at the Yeni Cami, known as the new mosque near the famous waterways of Istanbul. By this time it was raining again with fierce wind battering our bodies as it blew from the sea. Tired and wet we tried getting a taxi, but they seemed to be on break noticing several sat idle on the street in front of us. The first taxi driver just said no for some reason as he just sat in his car reading a newspaper. The second driver said yes for 60 euros. We could almost see our apartment building across the bridge and up the steep hill near the Galata Tower. It was maybe a 5 minute taxi ride, 10 with traffic. I had read about crooked taxi drivers who negotiate price instead of using the meter and this guy was definitely trying to take advantage of us so we declined.

The cold weather didn't stop people from enjoying Istanbul (Above)

With the Galata Bridge insight I urged the girls we should walk across it and look for a taxi on the other side. My main reason was to visit the famous bridge and take a few photos. Reluctantly they agreed as we made our way across the Golden Horn of Istanbul. The original plan was to take a boat ride along the Golden Horn up the Bosphorus strait into the Black Sea, but the terrible weather made that impossible. The Golden Horn waterway separates the historical center of Istanbul from the newer part of the city and the Bosphorus strait separates Asia from Europe giving Istanbul coordinates in both continents. The Galata Bridge had two levels with a roadway on top and restaurants and shops on the covered bottom. Regretfully, it was the closest I would get to being on the water for that trip. We made our way through the touristy shops filled with many everyday items from clothes and shoes to cell phones and curling irons.

Galata Bridge (Above)

The many restaurants lined the bridge on both sides offering outdoor seating for better weather days. The strong fish smell was overpowering, but we decided to stop for a drink and finalize the night's festivities. The specialty of the restaurant was of course fish and more fish with a side of fish sauce. As we sat there enjoying a glass of bubbly a table next us received their food. The smell got there before the food did and of course it was fish. A large platter was rolled out on a cart with all the trimmings. The very large fish covered the entire platter with the tail hanging over the edge and the head and eyeballs still attached. I thought Samantha was going to lose it when the diner stuck his fork into a juicy eyeball and popped it into his mouth. I thought I might lose it when he bit down and sucked the juices making a slurping sound. The man's companion, presumably his wife, did the same thing to the other eyeball as we motioned for the check. I'm sure that's perfectly normal in many places around the world, but where we're from the fish head is discarded before being served and nobody sucks on the damn eyeballs. It was an Andrew Zimmern moment for sure. Really I found it amusing and a highlight of the day's events although I'm not sure how the girls felt about it.

A little wet for outdoor dining (Above)

Heading up to the top level we couldn't believe people were fishing in the cold and rainy weather. Many dressed in commercial sea boat rain suits and hats while others sported plastic bags on their heads and feet in an attempt to stay warm and dry. I thought the best course of action would have been to stay at home since it was New Year's Eve, but to each their own. We walked to the end of the bridge and waited for a taxi to drive by. And we waited and we waited as it got darker and darker. Where in the hell were all the taxis? We didn't know, but they weren't where they needed to be. The apartment wasn't far, but it was uphill all the way in bad weather and now dark outside. I didn't relish the idea of walking up the steep hillside only to climb 6 stories to our apartment, but what real choice did we have. Samantha starts echoing my exact thoughts in a loud vocal way of disapproval when I suggested we walk back to the apartment. I felt her pain and dreaded the climb, but it wasn't going to kill us. I just wanted to shower and change clothes so we could relax before heading back out for New Years. So off we went, marching up the hill stopping a few times for a breather before arriving at our building. It had taken a little longer than I'd anticipated but we made it. Planning ahead we withdrew some cash at a nearby ATM before slowly making our way up the terrible stairwell from hell.

Dedicated fishermen on Galata Bridge (Above)

### Chapter 14

### New Year's Abroad

The plan was to take a taxi to Taksim Square and celebrate the New Year in a crowd of strangers as they tried to pick our pockets. That's what several posts online warned anyway. I didn't think it could be any worse than Rome, so that's what we did. After a glass of wine to get things started we headed downstairs and found a taxi waiting nearby, what luck! Better yet the older gentleman even spoke some English! His joyful demeanor was disarming and our jovial mood may have caused us to let our guard down just a bit when he offered a set rate of 30 euro instead of the meter. We didn't know how far Taksim Square was from our location, but 30 euros sounded fair compared to the guy earlier wanting 60 euros. We all jumped in and off we went, down back alley streets crisscrossing the main highways to avoid the crowds. The driver spoke the whole time barely looking at the road as we drove wide open down the narrow streets honking his horn if someone got in his way. I was glad to finally get where we were going! The driver was laughing and cutting up with us and wished us a safe and Happy New Year. I handed him a 100 euro banknote as he fumbled for the correct change. He handed me 2 tens and started looking through his coins. He said he had already deposited his money into the bank so a robber couldn't steal his hard earned money. The sly devil then asked if I had a smaller banknote, so I handed him a 50. He said thank you sir it was nice meeting you. In the heat of the moment I got out of the cab as he drove off with the 50 and the original 100 euros. That 30 euro ride turned into 130 real quick. I don't know if that was intentional or an innocent mistake, but I let it happen right in front of me. I might have taken 5 steps before it hit me, but the taxi was nowhere in sight.

I was not a happy camper at this point and the festive mood went to hell in a hand basket real quick. That was twice taxi drivers swindled money from us, after being warned about the very scam! Trying to shake it off and just let it go was easier said than done for my stubborn personality. We walked around a few minutes scoping out the square for the first time. The rain had picked up and the crowds huddled in the narrow side streets away from the open square, a prime location for pickpockets if I ever saw one. It was past time for dinner as we eyed some nearby street food. As silly as it sounds the smell and sight of roasted chestnuts brought a smile to my face. I had never tried roasted chestnuts on an open fire and there they were, just daring me to taste one. The Christmas song immediately popped into my head as the vendor stoked the fire underneath the nuts. It was real chestnuts roasting over an open fire in Istanbul on New Year's Eve. How cool was that!

Roaming the streets off Taksim Square (Above)

Feeling better about the earlier mishap we ventured into the crowds soaking up the city vibe looking for a watering hole so we could get out of the rain. Many of the restaurants had steep admission covers and inflated prices for the eager crowds. We had planned on walking around and people watching, but the weather had other plans. Following the locals cue we ate at a fast food joint with standing room only, but at least it was dry. This gave us some time to notice a band of young men standing along a dark lit wall just across from us. They were all intensely watching the crowd and whispering to one another giving the impression of ill intent. Most other people in the crowd were happily festive with some very festive and probably very inebriated by this time of night. We stood there wondering what the best course of action would be to salvage the night hoping for some kind of inspiration or sign. Should we try a different location or head back to the apartment? About this time the bottom fell out of the sky signaling us it was time to leave.

Taksim Square (Above)

Our grand night out in Istanbul had been an utter disaster for all intents and purposes. Mother Nature had been a bitch the whole time we were in Turkey and showed no signs of letting up. We looked at each other in agreement as we headed across the square to what looked like a row of taxis. Our clothes were soaked through by the time we got there and hopped into the first one in line. The driver was a young man in his early twenties with a thick accent, but understandable English phrases. He was surprised we wanted to leave before midnight and seemed reluctant to give us service. I explained the weather was the cause and my wife was feeling sick. Does a little white lie really hurt anybody? Samantha could've been feeling bad; we just ate some questionable fast food and chestnuts from a complete stranger. Don't judge me. The nice young man agreed as he started the illusive taxi meter not seen until that moment. He asked where we were from and I said U.S.A. and Canada but we all live in the U.A.E. now. His eyes lit up and said he wanted to go to America one day because America is number one. I just said if you say so buddy.

This is when he pulled out his cell phone so he could show us his racecar videos on YouTube. As he did this his eyes left the road and I became concerned for our wellbeing. In his excitement and hyper youth, his foot became ever increasingly heavy on the accelerator as he attempted to showcase his driving skills in the most

realistic way possible. He handed me the phone now playing a homemade video of someone driving a racecar on some road course who knows where. Now with his hands free he put the pedal to the metal and we broke several traffic laws speeded through the wet streets of Istanbul. This reminded me of my youth and the many times we had street raced around various small towns and lonely country straight stretches. My favorite pastime was flying down old dirt roads fast enough to slide the car around turns while spinning gravel in to the ditches while still maintaining control. Something we learned from watching the Dukes of Hazard. I understood how this young man felt, but I didn't want us to end up a traffic statistic either. Handing him his phone back I asked if we could watch it again but I accidently closed the page. He eagerly fumbled with his phone now slowing down to a normal pace for a young man. Luckily by this time we were near our destination and the unforeseen white knuckle ride was over. The fare was only 20 euros with a free adrenaline ride and video on the way. It was a much needed shot in the arm for us and made us thankful to just be alive.

We grabbed a couple of adult beverages and climbed the many stairs to the apartment one last time. Samantha found a channel on TV with a New Year's countdown and I played music from my phone. It wasn't a grand event but it was an event of our choosing. As midnight chimed fireworks could be seen from the apartment balconies and we three amigos brought in the New Year with a toast of good cheer. We all sent text and video messages to family and friends around the world wishing them Happy New Year and wishing they could be near. The girls soon retired to bed but I lingered for just a bit remembering past year's celebrations. I can say some were fantastic while others easily forgotten filled with memorizes of people now gone and others who moved on, but missing those who cling to us still.

The next morning we waited on our host Nadia to check us out of the apartment making sure we didn't break or steal anything. We thanked her for the hospitality and headed down the stairwell one last time. Of course the clouds were gone and the pavement dry as we waited for our driver to arrive, one last Turkish coffee for them and a delicious hot chocolate for me. It had been a whirlwind of a vacation with much to process and reflect on after we returned home. Turkey was not as I expected. The country divides two continents, but seems to have bridged the gap with a cohesive blending of old and new traditions found in different aspects of daily life. The weather was awful, but the trip was great giving me a new outlook on the history of the country and people now living in Turkey.

One last cup of Turkish coffee before leaving Istanbul for the girls (Above)

And a cup of hot chocolate and a brownie for me (Above)

### Chapter 15

### Remembering the Past and Looking to the Future

It wasn't until after we left Egypt and I started writing this book that I stumbled across a disturbing article on the Temple of Hatshepsut in Luxor, Egypt. The very same place we had visited and walked around without a care in the world. Casually taking photos and enjoying a beautiful day in the Egypt sun. But in 1997 a small Islamic Terror Group attacked the remote site killing 70 people and wounding 25 others before being gun downed themselves by the Police. The six gunmen first shot and killed the security guards before randomly shooting tourists as they ran for cover. The survivors told the grizzly tell of men and women being shot point blank in the face and chest before being finished with knives if needed. Having been there and knowing the layout sent chills down my spine as it's a perfect site for an ambush with flat open ground in the center surrounded by tall rocky cliffs in the back. We had no idea the ancient Egyptian tomb had such a morbid past nor did any guide feel obligated to tell us about it. There are dangers and horrors in every country of this old world as well as beauty and human marvels. The modern traveler rarely thinks of possible dangers when booking a flight or hotel online, focused more on vacation days and budget restraints. Many of us love to travel and meet new people and experience unfamiliar surroundings, but keep in mind everybody's not a friend.

People Are Just People

It seems no matter where you travel people are basically the same. We may dress differently or speak different languages, but the core is still very much the same. You will find nice people, mean people, smart people, dumb people, and many more subdivided categories in-between. I didn't know what to expect when we arrived in each foreign country, but imagined not only our surroundings would be different but the people would be too. Surprisingly I found a common ground we as human beings seem to possess that allows us to interact with one another even when language and culture are most foreign to the other. The eyes are very useful when conveying ones intentions and may be better than a polygraph or lie detector test. Combining hand gestures with voice tones will create a powerful manner in which to communicate with almost anyone. Back home in our neck of the woods you would usually find Spanish or Hmong speaking people, but not many of either. You could usually find someone nearby to translate such as a child or someone with more exposer to English. The same can be said for Italy and Egypt as many locals speak English as well as several other tourist languages. After visiting Turkey I can see how other countries view the United States as closed minded with most of us only speaking English. Communication can hard for international travelers with a very different outlook on life and governmental affairs. One notion that holds true no matter what language we speak is show someone kindness and expect the same in return, but show ill-will and expect twice in return.

Thanks for reading my book. If you enjoyed it, a review is a great way to show it! Any questions or suggestions can be sent to contact@alexandercountyabroad.com

Copyright 2016 by Rick Jolly

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