 
You often ask me to show
as many detailed carpentry projects as possible.
And today I am glad to fulfill your request
Today I will show you the process of making a kitchen table.
Any joinery starts with a concept and a drawing
And only after that we select the necessary materials
But in this project I did everything inside out
It was the material that dictated the design
and style of the future product.
I got hold of a pack of sliced veneer
made from oak driftwood.
Veneer is very specific and has a lot of defects
It cannot be used in classic carpentry
but for my project it fits the best
even in its raw form, this material carries a long history
Therefore, I decided to make the stolya in the style of arts and crafts.
 
I need to strictly follow the style
and this caused a lot of difficulties
Veneer is not a solid board and must be glued to the base
 
For the base I used 15mm plywood
I already showed the gluing of oak slats
when I made the top for the chest of drawers
But this time, this option is not suitable.
The veneer is very warped and it will be impossible to make a straight edge on it
I decided to use another way
I cut a sheet of plywood with a small margin in length
and immediately tried on veneer strips
 
The task was not easy
All stripes have a pronounced repeating pattern
 
And this immediately reveals that not a massive board was used here, but sheets of veneer
 
For about an hour I twisted and flipped the veneer strips
to achieve a chaotic pattern
At a certain point, I generally stopped understanding what and why I was doing
 
And I changed my job
I sawed a sheet of plywood into strips 150 mm wide
 
I think you already guessed that I will make improvised boards.
This is the so-called parquet board
 
plywood core provides stability and rigidity
And the veneer on both sides is a decorative coating
 
This veneer has a very beautiful color and texture
It is sliced on the Marunaka machine
The steamed log is sliced along the fibers
With this method, the veneer does not break and does not have a front or back side
 
and its properties correspond to sawn veneer
But this veneer also has disadvantages.
when cutting veneer, the driftwood does not delaminate very well
and in some places depressions and ledges appear
They need to be removed with a palm sander.
changing jobs is a very good rest
and I returned to laying out the veneer sheets again
about half an hour more wasted time,
and finally the drawing suits me.
strips can now be cut to length
It is enough to make a few cuts,
and the veneer easily breaks along the line
In order not to confuse the arrangement of the stripes
In order not to confuse the arrangement of the stripes
Now I need to carefully saw the veneer to the desired width
To prevent the veneer from breaking,
it must be pressed as close to the saw blade as possible
When trying to press the veneer to the saw table,
it begins to warp and bend to the sides
so I cut the veneer with an allowance
I need strips 152 mm wide
I will use batch gluing
To do this, I need to make a special device
these will be two boards, between which I will clamp the package
 
Planks need to be flattened, but I only do it on one side
 
to keep the maximum thickness
Thick board distributes pressure better
The next step is preparatory work.
It took longer than the gluing itself
To prevent the lamellas from sticking to each other, they need to be shifted with paper
 
I use gray rough paper
I rolled it right on strips of plywood
It turned out to be very convenient
I insert a knife between the plywood strips and just run the knife along
As a result, the paper strips are the same width as the plywood
 
Boards should be a few millimeters shorter and narrower than other parts
 
Also I need to provide for the alignment of the whole package
For this, I prepared short slats
They must be covered with tape
I fixed three slats on one of the boards -
two on the long side, and one on the end
With them, it will be more convenient for me to lay the stripes in a package
I decided to use PUR glue because it does not contain moisture
 
The glue instantly absorbs moisture from the air
and foams literally before my eyes
Here, as they say, do not yawn at the market, and I need to work very quickly
On plywood, I need to lay veneer, paper,
and then lay the package
 
 
On top I laid the second board
The glue is very slippery and the details begin to creep away.
First of all, I put the leveling strips
They will not let the details creep away
And only after that I can clamp the whole package
The main principle is that there are never too many clamps.
The width of all parts is different.
The widest is veneer (152 mm).
Plywood - 150 mm
and boards about 148 mm
 
The different widths of the parts had to be made because the veneer does not have an straight edge
and I will subsequently remove its overhangs
The clamps can be removed after a couple of hours
Naturally, in many places the glue seeped through the cracks
and the paper stuck
There is nothing wrong with that.
There is nothing wrong with that. The veneer is thick and can be sanded without fear of making holes
Glue and paper sand off easily
Then I can glue the veneer on the other side.
Veneer must always be glued on both sides
Otherwise, the part will bend by a boat or a trough.
The other side must be glued with the same veneer
The technology is the same again
but the veneer is not so beautiful
 
I took only one detail from the front pack.
I will train on it during the subsequent finishing
For sanding I use rotex RO 150
I bought it over 4 years ago
I got used to working with it for a long time, but now it is my favorite sander.
The protruding glue must be removed probably only by hand
At least I haven't found an efficient mechanized way
The knife perfectly removes glue
And now intermediate sanding on the de-tero system
on the softest drum
I sanded lightly, because the parts still need to be planed in a thicknesser
I can't do without a thicknesser,
because the thickness of the plywood varies within 1 mm
 
For each pass I cut 0.1 - 0.2 mm
I numbered the parts on the ends
 
Now I can work with plywood strips as with ordinary boards
They need to align the edges
Plywood is a harder and dirtier material than wood
If your jointer has straight knives, get ready to sharpen them after such work.
More than a year ago I installed a helical on my jointer
And on plywood it works fine
 
Now you can clearly see that the veneer has different thicknesses
 
The reason is uneven plywood thickness
and uneven sanding
But the remaining veneer thickness is quite enough for further processing.
 
Finally, the stripes can be folded together and I can look at the tabletop drawing.
 
And everything seems to be fine, but plywood has another unpleasant property
Bent fibers are formed at the ends of the transverse layers
No matter how sharp the knives are, these curved fibers are still present.
You can determine them by touch or by running along the edge with a napkin
The napkin slides to one side and clings to the other
As soon as you apply the glue, the fibers will straighten and the strip in these areas will become wider.
The straightened fibers will abut against each other and the strips will not join tightly
It is enough to sand the edge with 120-150 grit paper
 
 
After that I cleaned the glue more thoroughly.
I used knives, a chisel and a wire brush
I did an experiment with a cup brush
It's very effective, but it textures the wood,
and I hate brushing
Now I am sanding again with the de-tero system.
I need to round off the edges of the stripes
 
I need grooves to remain between the stripes after gluing
Grooves are needed for further decoration
De-tero system smoothes out all steps and cracks
But flatness persists
Palm sanders can disturb the flatness
 
I made a detailed review of this system. Link in description below
 
Many friends came to see me to see this miracle of technology.
 
Now each of them has this machine
 
Stripes can be assembled in several ways
 
Biscuits
 
dowels
 
 
I will use domino DF 500
 
This is a tool for the lazy.
took it, plugged it in and went to work
Yes, the tool is expensive, but it saves a lot of time
You can glue on any PVA
I am using Kleiberit 303
It has a long open time
And I can take my time
 
I glue the parts together in two passes, not all at once
 
There is excess glue at the joints
I do not remove it immediately, but wait for the glue to dry
 
 
 
The glue can be removed with a nylon brush.
This brush can easily scrape off glue without disturbing the wood surface
 
At the same time, the glue does not spread over the surface
Glue rolls off and flies off in small granules
 
 
And again Rotex RO 150
I need to remove small steps at the joints
 
because further processing will be done relative to the surface
 
 
This completes the pre-processing of the tabletop, but that's not all.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Now I'm talking about where I buy veneer, and this is relevant only for Russia)))
 
Several episodes from the upcoming work
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Several episodes from the upcoming work again
 
 
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Goodbye!!!
 
 
 
