Hey, welcome to part 2 of the steampunk
shoulder armor tutorial pattern tutorial...
tutorial. I am still wearing my
mechanical arm because I love it and I'm
allowed to, because this is my basement.
If you haven't already watched part 1
there's a link in the description below
or in the upper right hand corner
but other than that let's just get
making.
Alright so I'm gonna start by
adding fancy bits and pieces to the main
torso piece but before I start on that
I'm gonna heat up the pauldron and the
pauldron flappy bit, wrap them with some
cling wrap so they stay really curled up
and want to stay curled up for the rest
of their life. They can just hang out
like that while I'm working on the other
part. Grab a piece of corrugated plastic
tubing from the sky and cut three pieces
that fit between the edge of the nut and
the edge of the circle, which for the
medium-sized pattern is 25 millimeters
long. Now you can use a pair of scissors
to cut each piece in half. The position
of these tubing pieces will be fairly
important when we add the wire so try to
line them up as shown here. If you run a
straight edge from the upper left tube
it should create a line parallel to the
top line of the kinda rectangular piece.
Once you're happy with the positioning,
glue the tubing down, being careful not
to use too much glue because it's pretty
hard to clean up on the outside of those
tubes. And now you can glue the center
nut. Grab that pen you almost threw away
but didn't, take out the inside pen bit
and mark the case every two and a half
centimeters. Oh actually you're gonna
need two pens to get enough pieces. Now
cut along the marks. I like to use a
tubing cutter for this because it makes
a nice straight cut and it also rounds
off the ends beautifully. Push your
little pen pieces into their tubes,
leaving 20 millimeters sticking out, then
use super glue to glue them down onto
the foam.
Piece 24 is made the right size for if
you didn't have those pen pieces
sticking out but since we do we need to
stretch it all the way around. That way
we'll have enough extra length to go
over the pens. Now glue it down, section
by section, forming it around each of the
pens.
Glue the last three pen pieces equally
spaced in the not-quite rectangular box.
We probably need a strap to hold down
those sensitive components so let's glue
down piece 37. I use the end of a ruler
to jam it down in between the pens.
Okay let's wire this contraption up.
The wire I'm using is old telephone wire
but
you can use whatever you can get your
hands on. This process can be a bit of
trial and error but basically it
involves bending the wire to follow the
path you want it to go and then gluing
it down with superglue. As they say a
picture's worth a thousand words so
rather than trying to explain where
every wire goes I'll just let you sit
back and watch.
(funky music)
If you find yourself struggling to get
the bends in the right places it can
often be helpful to draw the path on the
foam first and then bend your wire to
follow it.
(more funky music)
All right your fancy wires should be all
glued. Now it's time to go back to the
foam bits. Piece 29 gets glued over the
end of that wire there, then piece 30
here and here. A couple 12 millimeter
discs cut out and stacked on top of each
other make a great screw head to go on
top of the nut. Cut two parallel lines
partway down through the foam disk then
connect the cuts across the bottom and
then you've got a nice slot for your
screwdriver when you need to tighten up
that nut if it gets loose. Now cut 10
more 12 millimeter disks and glue each
one in the center of a piece 23, which
then gets a six millimeter hole punched
in the its center. Glue five of those
disks over the holes you punched in the
neck guard and the other five on the
shoulder armor piece directly across from each
neck disc. Now's a good time to add some
fake rivets to each disk using your pen.
See if you can find an old power cord
that no one would mind if it got
completely destroyed and cut five
5 centimeter lengths. Give them each a good
sharp bend so they stay a little bit
curved and use super glue to glue them
into the disks. Piece 31 gets glued on to
the back and a whole bunch of fake
rivets get made all over the place. I
even use the back of my pen for one
piece just to change it up. And, because
you can never have too many rivets, I'm
gonna make my favorite type of rivets
using five-minute two-part epoxy. Squirt
out equal parts of epoxy, mix it
super duper well and use a match head to
apply a small drop wherever you want a
rivet. This technique does take a bit of
practice and has been known to be
frustrating for some people so use at
your own risk of frustration. I used
these rivets on the top of the neck
guard, on the corner pieces, on the little
tab things, and right...here. To finish it
off we probably need some six millimeter
screw heads around the ring that holds
the power station device in place. Don't
want that to fall out - lose all your
power to your shoulder. Okay onto the
pauldron. Piece 13, piece number seven,
piece 15, a cute little grill, piece 14 on
top of piece 13, piece 8 on top of piece
7, piece 9 on top of piece 8,
piece 10 and 11 on top of piece 7 and
piece 12 on top of piece 8 and 11. Now
take piece 22 and stretch out the
center a bit. You can just use your hands
or if you happen to have a knee you
could use that too. Apply glue up the
middle section and glue it into place,
centered along the center line of the
pauldron. Now glue down the sides, trying
to keep it as smooth as possible.
Glue down piece 16, leaving about a 10
millimeter gap between it and the rim
around the pauldron. Glue pieces 17, 18
and 20 on top of piece 16, and 19 on top
of piece 18. The fan blade thing gets
jammed in the hole so that it domes
outward and looks really cool. Pressing
down a little bit in the middle helps it
not look too pointy. Glue it in with some
superglue. 39, 39 and 39 line up nicely
right here. A little v cut in a leftover
piece of edging allows it to cover up
the top pauldron seam. Glue the ends of
piece 26 together to form a little tube.
That tube gets glued down to piece 27,
centered as best as possible. Use a very
small amount of glue to glue the cover
piece down to the side of the cylinder
in four equally spaced places. Next, apply
glue to one of the unglued sections and
work it down against the side of the
tube with your fingers. The look we're
going for here is a metal cap that's
been crimped down over top of the tube
so we're happy with a few little ripples and
bumps. Again if you don't want to burn
yourself use a glue gun set at a low
temperature. Repeat this process for the
other three sections and you've got a
neat little capped housing for your
burner coil, which we're gonna make right
now with two strips of foam 45.5 centimeters long - 
one 17 millimeters
wide and the other 9 millimeters wide.
Glue one on top of the other, lining up
one of the long edges. I'm gonna paint
mine with a bit of red and a bit of
black to give it a kind of hot element
vibe. We're gonna need to paint both
sides but try not to paint the lower
portion of the strip because that's
where we're gonna be applying the glue.
Once the paint is dry, roll it up like a
little cinnamon bun and glue it. It'll be
a bit tricky to paint the front of the
housing later with the coil installed so
I might as well do it now. I also added
a bit of brass accent to the coil for
some extra zing and a 12 millimeter disc
to cover the centre. Push the coil into
the housing and glue the housing onto
the shoulder armor.
Note that the housing is not placed in
the center of piece 22 but more towards
the front. Glue some nine millimeter
disks here here here here and here, and
some six millimeter
disks here here here and here. Also all
around here. And we might as well just go
crazy and make them all into screw heads.
Hopefully you're not tired of cutting
discs yet because we need twelve more
12 millimeter discs which get
9 millimeter discs glued on top of them.
These go here here here here here here
here here here here here and here. Now
give them each a really good poke with a
pen so that we can stick our wire in
them. We'll also cut some little slots in
the top of the three piece 39s for the
same reason, and now it's time to get
funky with some wires.
(funky music plays)
And that's the wires. We just need to
pretend to hold them down with some
little tabs like number 40 here and
number 30 here here and here. Add some
fake rivets with your pen and some more
fake rivets with some epoxy and a match.
Don't forget that the little flappy bit
for the pauldron needs some fake rivets
too. Right now your shoulder armor looks a bit
like a clown suit so be sure to make the
most of it before you get out your paint.
Start by painting it with black artists
acrylic paints. I like to give it three
coats of black paint so the paint really
fills in the pores of the foam and gives
me a nice smooth non-porous surface when
it comes time to apply the metallics.
Once your three coats are dry, put on a
rubber glove and grab your metallic
paints. I'm using Basics Bronze for all
the background color. Take a tiny bit of
paint and then spread it out on the
cardboard until there's almost none on
your finger and then rub it on the foam.
The great thing is that because your
finger is shaped like a finger it
doesn't apply the paint right to the
edges which is actually a good thing
when you're trying to make it look like
old oxidized metal. In the places where
my fingers can't reach I use a tiny
amount of paint on a brush and apply it
mainly down the center so it fades off
to each side. If you end up rubbing paint
in places you shouldn't be rubbing, it's
easy enough to go back with some black
and cover it up. Next I'll pull out my
Deco Art Americana Decor Metallics
paints which I'm using thanks to Deco
Art's Helping Artists Program. The first
color I'm going to use is Vintage Brass.
Right now my favorite silver color is
actually a 50/50 mix of Deco Art
Metallics Pewter and their Silver.
Now grab an old belt, cut it in two and
glue one end to the front and the other
to the back. Obviously you're gonna want
to try it on first before you start
gluing to make sure the straps are gonna
line up the best way for your body. I
made sure to give the belt and the foam
a quick sand with some coarse sandpaper
to give the hot glue something to grip
on. Glue a piece of elastic inside the
flappy bit to keep it attached to your
arm and then install the hinge rivets as
per my other video.
And all that's left
is to attach the pauldron with a piece
of webbing and some glue.
All right, super
cool shoulder. Just so you know there's
three sizes to the armor pattern - there's a
large, medium and small. This is the
medium so the large is bigger the small
is smaller and if you want to get your
hands on the shoulder armor pattern I'll have links here
at the end of the video as well as in
the description. Okay so maybe some of
you are wondering what will this look
like on a female body and I don't have a
lot of female bodies in my house but I
do have one right here. (swoosh sound)
It's my wife Lorinda. So I asked her to
try it on and this is what it looks like.
This is a size small. It's not finished - I
just glued this on here for now, that's
why it's kind of coming off there, but it
gives you a little bit of an idea what
the pattern will look like on a female
torso. And this is the medium on a bit of
a larger lady and so that's how that
looks on a hard bodied female.
However I do
realize that there are lots of different
sizes and shapes of people so if you
make the pattern and find you have to do
some alterations to get it to fit please
let me know and I will update the
pattern to have a female torso version
as well so that everyone can be happy
and have something that fits them easily
and awesomely.
Thanks for watching. See ya.
And don't forget the armor pattern, wherever it
is, and also if you haven't seen the
mechanical arm video and want to make
that (makes mechanical sounds)
you could do that too by clicking a
link in the description.
The end.
