We know him as the man who penned the Declaration
of Independence, President of the United States
and advocate for the separation of church
and state.
But Thomas Jefferson’s impact on America
goes far beyond simple politics.
He was an inventor, a philosopher, a bookaphile
and an architect.
He was also a food connoisseur.
Drawing from his time as French minister and
his love of gardening, he helped significantly
expand Americans’ palate.
Here’s how the United States' third president
became the county’s "First Foodie."
Jefferson learned how to oversee a farm at
a young age.
He was born on a 1,200-acre plantation and
homestead that his father, Peter Jefferson,
owned called “Shadwell,” which was named
after the London parish where his wife (and
Thomas’s mother) was born.
In 1757, when Thomas was only 12, Peter Jefferson
died.
He left the land to his sons, of which Thomas
inherited about half.
It was on this land that he learned how to
run a colonial Virginian farm.
This meant managing finances, dealing with
crops and lording over slaves.
Jefferson’s relationship with slavery is
well-known to be complicated, but he oversaw
many slaves at Shadwell.
While the main cash crop was tobacco, Jefferson
knew about the toll that tobacco took on the
soil and slowly transitioned to wheat and
other grains.
While running a farm, he also went to school
at the College of William & Mary, where he
studied law.
The inheritance left by his father allowed
Jefferson to become one of the more highly
educated young men in the state.
A year after passing the Virginia bar, Jefferson
began building his mansion.
In 1768, construction began on a favorite
childhood spot of his, a hilltop he called
“Monticello” (Italian meaning “little
mountain”).
The mansion was completed four years later
and he moved in with his new wife Martha Wayles
Skelton Jefferson.
Wayles’ family was also well-off, so when
her father died, it was Jefferson who inherited
his property (as was the custom at the time).
This included a substantial amount of debt
- and over 100 slaves.
Notable to the topic of this video, one of
those slaves was James Hemings, who was Sally
Hemings’ brother (a slave whose six children
have been speculated to have been sired by
Jefferson).
James Hemings was also Martha Wayles’ half-brother,
and soon Jefferson’s personal chef.
In 1782, Wayles died from ongoing illness
due to childbirth.
Jefferson never married again.
He also arranged to leave town.
More than that, he left the continent, asking
Congress to send him to France to replace
Ben Franklin as the American Minister there.
Spending five years in Paris, it undoubtedly
turned this well-educated American into one
obsessed with European culture and food.
If the seeds were sowed for Jefferson’s
legacy as a foodie as a farm kid, it was in
France when these seeds were watered.
Jefferson spent five years in Paris, learning
about its architecture, culture and food.
When he set sail in 1784, he brought along
a convoy, including 19-year-old James Hemings.
He had a particular reason for bringing Hemings
- he wanted him to train as a French chef.
Learning under the tutelage of caterers, pastry
chefs and even a master chef from the hotel
Prince de Conde, Hemings excelled at this
craft.
When Jefferson and his clan returned to America
in 1789, Hemings went to work cooking and
was soon regarded as one of the top chefs
in all of America.
When dignitaries were invited to Monticello
by Jefferson for dinner, they knew they were
in for a treat.
A Hemings-prepared meal at Jefferson’s home
was unlike anything else available in America
at the time.
(More on the sad fate of James Hemings in
a Bonus Fact later.)
There are a lot of myths and legends about
which foods Jefferson brought back from France
and introduced to the hungry American public.
For example, french fries- while it’s up
in the air how French these fried potatoes
actually are (see our video Who Invented French
Fries), it is correct to say that Jefferson
discovered this treat from Parisian street
vendors and had Hemings make a similar recipe
at Monticello.
On the other hand, contrary to shockingly
popular myth, Jefferson didn’t invent ice
cream but did help popularize it in America
by serving it often at functions.
His ice cream recipe is also the first known
documented recipe for the treat written down
by an American.
As President, he imported a macaroni maker
from Naples to make his new favorite food
- macaroni and cheese.
Serving it to White House guests at an 1802
state dinner, he helped popularize the food
item that is now a staple of most households
in the United States.
The macaroni maker wasn’t the only kitchen
tool and accessory he imported from Europe.
He also brought home a coffee urn, a waffle
iron, ice cream mold and a bowl for cooling
wine glasses.
However, not everyone enjoyed Jefferson’s
French leanings.
Fellow Virginian and patriot Patrick Henry
attacked Jefferson for essentially being a
traitor to his culture for rejecting “his
native victuals in favor of French cuisine.”
While Jefferson did have a thing for French
cuisine, he also grew a vast variety of his
own foods at Monticello.
Very into what we would today call “locally-sourced”,
Jefferson grew 330 different vegetable varieties
and more than 170 different kinds of fruits
on the vast acreage of his Virginia home.
He took immense pride in his distinctly Virginia
gardens, saying that his kitchen was "half
French, half Virginian.”
At a time when Virginia - and really all of
the American South - was known for tobacco,
Jefferson pushed crop diversity which is the
lasting legacy of his gardening career.
He was also meticulous in keeping track of
growth and harvesting schedules, leaving extensive
calendars and notes behind.
According to culinary historian Karen Hess,
his calendar and gardening book are among
the most important documents in American food
history.
Recently, Jefferson’s gardens have been
restored at Monticello and are now growing
many of the same items that he did 200 years
ago.
However, like today’s “locally-sourced”
and “organic” food culture, his food obsessions
didn’t come cheaply for Jefferson.
In 1801 - during his first year of his Presidency
- it is estimated that Jefferson spent approximately
$6,500 on groceries and maintaining his garden,
which is about $125,000 today.
He spent another $3,000 (approximately $58,000)
on wine.
Then, as now, being a foodie wasn't cheap.
Bonus Fact:
In 1793, Jefferson was residing in Pennsylvania,
which did not allow slavery.
Thus Jefferson had to pay Hemings for his
culinary services while there.
It was at this time that Jefferson decided
to resign from his cabinet position and return
home to Virginia, a slave state.
Not keen on going back, Hemings pressed Jefferson
for his freedom.
Surprisingly, Jefferson granted it - something
he only did for two out of the over 600 slaves
he owned in his lifetime.
However, this freedom was on one condition-
Hemings had to train someone to take his place
before he'd be allowed his "unalienable Rights."
The specific agreement that was drawn up by
Jefferson before the return to Virginia was
as follows,
“Having been at great expence in having
James Hemings taught the art of cookery, desiring
to befriend him, and to require from him as
little in return as possible, I hereby do
promise & declare, that if the said James
should go with me to Monticello in the course
of the ensuing winter, when I go to reside
there myself, and shall there continue until
he shall have taught such person as I shall
place under him for that purpose to be a good
cook, this previous condition being performed,
he shall thereupon be made free...”
After spending two years training his brother,
Peter, as Jefferson's new chef, Hemings was
granted his freedom and traveled abroad for
a time.
He eventually returned to the United States
where his life took a turn for the worse.
Facing extreme racism and having difficulty
finding work, despite his enormous culinary
talents, and after refusing a position at
the White House with Jefferson in 1801 for
unclear reasons, Hemings committed suicide
that same year.
A friend of Jefferson, William Evans, investigated
the death and reported back,
“The report respecting James Hemings having
committed an act of suicide is true.
I made every inquiry at the time this melancholy
circumstance took place.
The result of which was, that he had been
delirious for some days prior to committing
the act, and it was the general opinion that
drinking too freely was
the cause.”
