Hi everybody Randy Richard in the shop may get started on the steam engine build
and this is going to be a multi-part
video series I'll try to do at least one
segment a week type of thing it's going
to take me a little while to build all
this stuff I think let's take a look at
the cylinders we're gonna start going to
start with those and kind of how I'm
gonna start machining them yesterday I
spent picking up find in stock to build
these engines out of and I think I came
with just about everything I'll need and
a little bearing bronze and chrome moly
and what else we got here we got some
little scraps of hex brass we'll need
some one in or nuts not one it so it's
like 7/8 brass or something and I got
some Springs I can use I got a whole
pile of Springs in here and brass nuts
so yeah even some tiny ones even some
440 brass nuts there 1032 nuts and a few
of those and two more Springs in here
just to choose from yeah anyway that's
all I get all the parts thrown in there
no I'm gonna end up mean that there's a
mandrel yeah so uh I got most of parts
I've just missing a couple screws and
I'll come up with those or I'll make
them anyway so the plan is here's the
cylinders now both of these cylinders
this one's brass on this one's aluminum
these were both made with the same
casting their relative size wise they're
very close and or you know they're worse
in maybe the same pattern I should say
so this is really close to a half an
inch um I have a 501 reamer I'm just
gonna set them up kind of loose and the
reamer the if these aren't clamped down
tight the reamer will end up just
following that hole so I can get a nice
clean hole that they had some corrosion
in there and and oxidation and stuff so
that way I'll clean up the hole and get
it to a consistent size then I'll take a
gauge pan hopefully they can be 501 so
there's a 501 gauge pin and you know it
does not fit obviously and I'll be able
to put that gauge pin in in the cylinder
and indicate on this when I put it in a
four jaw Chuck so I have this in there
and in the in the lathe and I'll
indicate off of the pin so I have a nice
concentric way of dialing in the bore
because it's not it's not really very
smooth in there even the reamer will
make it nicer but I'm more looking for a
consistent hole not a service finish
with the reamer so I can have that in
there nice and I'll be able to indicate
on it for straightness also you know
stick it maybe halfway and I know how
I'll be able to indicate close to the
cylinder and far away to make sure we
are straight in the Chuck and what we'll
do is then is we're going to face it off
then we're going to bore it so this is
square and concentric and then we'll be
able to flip it over and face off the
other end that's the plan at least after
we get the balls and the end squared up
then we'll start dealing with we'll deal
with the valve valving surface and
mounting surface features there's holes
to be drilled there's a recess and for
our mounting of the rod so we'll have to
deal with that now the whole situation
now the boring and the facing is the
same for both cylinders that's why I'm
just coming to them both of ones and but
the facing the mounting fixture feature
is the same on both but the holes
importing is different so we'll have
different different setup for those
but I'm gonna wanna get one I like to
get these done these are individual
parts not really relating to the other
ones too much other than holes and so we
can get these all wrapped up done set
aside and then we'll continue on with
something else
but I thought we'd start with the
cylinders so approximate size here
roughly right now these are 1.8 1.8 3 in
length once 1 625 is gonna be the
finished that's called for the finished
length unit see here this is a roughly
172 and width probably end up being more
closer to 1 inch in width once we want
to clean this I'm going to clean these
sides up probably well we'll see how
that goes I was thinking about cleaning
those up because the ends will be clean
and then maybe do these also so we're a
consistent size and they're about the
same there huh this one's about 30
thousands less than that
no this might have had more shrinkage
you know but I'm sure they'd use the
same pattern for these and diameter
outside diameter about 1 356 okay this
one was about about the same one
101 363 so they're similar very similar
no this one weighs about twice as much
as this one anyway I'm gonna show you
the I'm going to show you the modeling
I've done will show you I'll show you
this entran for now at first and then I
mean in a following video we'll get to
show you this up modeling I'm not quite
finished with the modeling on this one
but we'll show you the modeling on this
one here before we get over to the leg
this is the years 2005 engine from the
Oregon home machinist that was the group
in Oregon that cat headed up for a
number of years and they had a show of
engines and model engines steam engines
gas engines
you know all sorts of stuff that home
machinist and stuff had made and they
would also offer a kit for that year
that they would also sell to raise money
for their group and the show was called
gears and this is from the gears 2005
show or their 2005 model and I took
their drawings and drew read and modeled
the entire unit here and in it you can
even a make it run right by hand now
what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna just kind
of show ya and go through those some of
the parts and and you can and and we're
gonna make it run one thing I'm
interested in is for the viewers should
I go through and show you the modeling
of every part in the videos if you'd
like and should I actually show you how
I drew these sayings and modeled them
it'd be you know a lot of videos there's
quite a few parts but is it something
that you know you'd be interested in and
learning how to do this
IIIi did this and this is infusion 360
now and I've also used on shape quite a
bit but you know they're very similar
and I've used a little bit of SolidWorks
they're all the programs are really very
similar in a sense and they you end up
with the same kind of product yeah they
do things a little bit differently and
things you know some of their commands
and all that but if you have an idea
what you have an idea you can use the
ideas and use them in all the programs
but we just go around so here's a
cylinder right here with the red band
and the green in the middle and this
part here that that's the cylinder then
you have the cylinder head on this end
this green one with the G and then you
have the the other end which is the
stuffing box or packing gland and it's
held on by four four four four forty
socketed cap screws that's what they
have in they used and four on the other
end obviously here the base here is a
this is a casting the cylinders are
casting the ends are castings flywheels
of casting and then all the rest are
machined parts these are the ports for
the steam or air that we're gonna use
air for now and in lehtinen exhaust we
have let's see we'll go over here this
end is the shaft that allows the the
cylinder to pivot and then they have
couples they have a spring here a couple
nuts and some little caps on the spring
as a tension device to hold it tight
against the the base the base part here
against the surface right here this
joint and then you have on this end of
course you have a flywheel right here
and then crank over here and a crank pin
this is like your crank web on a
crankshaft and they have a couple they
drew a couple designs of this a round
disc which is very simple to make and a
cut out one I'm going to do the cut out
one on the other engine and on this one
I'll do the disc now we got show both of
them then then of course here so you can
rotate this get here you have the
packing guy and nut and inside there's
packing or or yeah packing it's called
packing even on big engines it's called
packing and there's bronze bushings in
here and in here and right here there's
a bronze bushing also zoom
here you know they also drew a couple
options on the connecting rod the piston
connecting rod here as a one-piece this
is a one I drew this as a one-piece one
but they also have an option in their
drawing to make this out of two pieces
where the head is one piece and this is
screwed into the head if you don't have
the ability to make it as a one-piece
nice little bronze bushing in here and
then you can see here they there was an
ER oh they did a straightener on the end
and press fit it in the shaft here this
this is your crankshaft main shaft it's
pressed into the crank web now on the
fly the fly wheel side this is they used
a set screw and machined a flat on here
a set screw here's a zoom in feature of
this this side over here where the
spring is in the center and then these
two little brass caps and a couple lock
nuts so this is just 1032 then there's a
bushing in here and on the other side of
it and then like I said in here there's
a bushing and a bushing in here then
they used a couple little plastic discs
teflon discs or in here they just said
plastic but teflon would be nice nice
and slippery and in here is a spacer and
there's should be one over here I don't
yeah I have to adjust that maybe I'm
gonna make this run actually which is
kind of cool so this is my rotary joint
you know all those little blue things I
just turned on our joints and I'm gonna
select that one joint and I may emanate
animate the model and then I can just
turn off the joints if I want so you
don't see them and there you go it's
gonna run which is kind of cool you know
doing this sort of thing really helps
you figure out clearances and such like
that especially like right here I and
realize how much as a piston rod comes
to contact with the packing gland how
close is that well I have to I'm gonna
have to screw that packing line in quite
a bit and just have a little bit
Clarence on it for not to hit the the
head other your connecting rod so that's
a that was something to realize how much
I had to go in I'm gonna make the
cylinder transparent here so you can see
the piston inside here I've made the
cylinder transparent actually about
thirty percent transparency so you can
see the outline and and of the cylinder
but you can see the piston action and
another important thing you can see is
the that this piston the nut almost
touches the end of the head here I mean
it's very very close it's it looks like
it is touching and if you turn it really
slow will do that and you'll see it is
really touching here at the top end the
stuffing box and I have a lot of
clearance not still so this tells me in
in in in their design the separation
between the two from the center of the
crankshaft and the pivot point of the
cylinder they actually could be spread
apart a little bit to give me a little
clearance on the bottom in and use some
of that clearance on the top end so it's
a little more even in the stroking of
the piston and not making sure you're
not gonna have any interferences now the
other thing I was looking at on this is
the position of the porting you can see
here the circle moving back and forth
over these other two holes and that is
the end of the port that's in the
cylinder and it goes it from the
cylinder on the over here where the
cursor is and then it's at an angle over
here is the other end of it exiting the
cylinder and you can see how it over it
passes over the porting in the engine
base and the base of the mounting
surface
for the cylinder and you can see that
there's how the overlap it almost closes
off half of the cylinder I mean the port
as it comes up and and down it closes
off about half of the port also but
these are things you can notice when you
when you when you create a model for
things and you can see it's the same
problem on this on the other end the
same situation because the ports and the
block are also at an angle and they have
to be at an angle because the design of
other where the ports are these are the
interesting things you can see when
you're when you do create a model for
something especially using when you're
using active joints and drive joints and
things like that it's kind of cool
here is the cylinder model view and you
can see the internal porting right there
the screw holes the recess for the
mounting of the pivot rod and mounting
screw holes and the other end of the
ports and this is the other end yeah
well let's take a look at it through a
little bit of invisible mode so I use
30% there it was just a pretty nice
number
visibility wise to use it gives you the
outline of the model and you can see all
the internal parts or porting and holes
and such so a lot of holes here you can
see the holes here they're threaded and
then the internal two ports that we have
to drill how they're in an angle we can
go here a top view and you can see how
they're thirty degree angle here here's
the drawing that I created and we have
some you know the set screws or not the
screws that go I put in here listen them
they'll hold the heads on this is a nice
place to put them and all pertinent
information to to build this or machine
it I should say we have a side view of
where the ports are and n view both ends
are the same so you only need really one
end view and then I did a sectional view
here cutting cutting right through the
center and showing also though these
angled ports here which is kind of nice
and our 30-degree angle and our spacing
on the center of the port go now to the
lathe and start start making this thing
right up set the silt cylinder in here
and it's just loose it's not you know
it's just a very tiny bit of play
this way but you know so it's it's loose
right
and what we're gonna do is we're just
gonna we've got the chucking rumor in
the truck and we're just going to come
on down here like this now it's going to
want to turn and it should turn against
that we'll just kind of hold it there so
it doesn't slam but it's going to want
to turn against that back the fixed jaw
we're gonna put a little WD on here
smoke it in there
it's gonna go nice and easy with it
it'll just follow that hole not trying
to make a new hole here
we were simple as that and yeah it's a
little a little hard to see down there
but that's just chess it's very nice and
clean I'm gonna blow that you can see
how clean it is now I think yeah it's
stuck in the jaws there we go
see yeah there's a 501 oh yeah that's a
nice that's oh that's that's perfect
perfect fit for a piston type fit and
we're just gonna put it in and it kind
of snugs up actually about half way it
might be a little chip in there but
anyway that's why I want to do it's like
that
perfect fit I haven't it just it's just
in here lightly I just kind of eyeballed
it as far as the center goes there's a
parting line on here I used to Center it
up and those between those two jaws
pretty close and I just kind of
eyeballed the center line of the hole
with the jaw so it it's kind of closed
and I'm going to use I'm just going to
use anything here so I grabbed a tool
with a boring bar in it and as a
comparator and I'm just going to slip my
501 pin in there until it just kind of
snugs up
I could probably push that all the way
through if I really wanted to so I'm
sticking out here at an inch and I'll
make it an inch and an eighth but it's
it's not it's I mean I can turn it but
it takes a little bit of work now I'm
just gonna come up your clothes and I
have the truck disengaged so it's easy
to turn and I'm gonna see how where I'm
at just eyeballing this here I can get
it real close real easy
also what I'm doing is I'm grabbing a
little bit of this front portion of the
cylinder not just the nut in the back a
more really grabbing the front here
because I have my soft jaw inserts in
now these aren't real thick copper but
I'm not going to grab it super super
tight they should protect enough I'm
just going to do this eyeball wise and
then when it looks close move your move
your tool in a little closer so I moved
in a little closer and I'll rotate it
some more because you have to move
closer you can tell how far out you are
I'm going to first go in here now this
is going to be a little bit of an angle
but that's we're just doing a comparison
we're not trying to measure actually how
much run out there is so if it's an
angle I'll be okay I just want it to be
on centerline I don't want to hit
anything like it's doing come out a
little bit farther
there we're not too bad were let's see
15 20 25 thousands oh no too bad I think
we're gonna leave it there I'm one and a
quarter or one one thousandth there and
let's see I think I'm about zero here so
needle doesn't move so we're good now
we're going to like that we're going to
face that and board three quarters 0.75
Oh for the bore
some of the other things you can do is
you can turn on and off the parts you
know I'm gonna start way down here at
the bottom and I'm just gonna turn off
all these parts and you'll see them
disappear in the model will go all the
way on down so there's the base and you
can see this is a counter bore for the
heads of the 440 screws socket head cap
screws clearance and then here's the
tube the porting the exhaust and inlet
porting and the bores for the crankshaft
and then over here oops I forgot to make
that surface not not the right color
that I made these shiny so that they
represent that those are machined
surfaces so well so here we'll just draw
here's the cylinder we'll put the
cylinder on you see how that goes in
there and you can see all the screw
holes and everything that's in there and
the ports ports and such the cylinder
head with the stuffing box or the gland
is on here and it's threaded and
counterbored for the packing and such
and the other cylinder head will put
back on and you can see where that goes
and we have the packing it goes in and
now I got this now I turned it on and
it's sitting down in here it's a small
oh I don't have it Center down I just
know how that got off-center anyway
we'll have to straighten that out yeah I
didn't catch that
sometimes I'm going along pretty quick I
forget what I've done a little bit so
we'll have to sever that packing up in
the board but the packing goes in there
then your gland nut there then we have
piston rod will go in like so now the
piston rod when I do the piston here its
I have made this a separate assembly
it's the connecting rod the bushing the
piston and the o-ring and the nut on the
end and then I put that assembly into
this model
it's a sum of a sub ascend assembly
basically now I could also do that when
the cylinder made it a sub assembly the
so there's a crank shaft bushing will
put in I forgot to show you the cylinder
bushing here's this then I'll put the
bushings back in before this for the
piston pivot shaft
there's the bushings there and the
bushing there and the other crank shaft
bushing on the other side so then we
have four bushings in then we have the
cylinder mount shaft we can put that in
there you go that's in the what else we
have here we have oh and then the crank
shaft I made it a sub with the cylinder
back up here the cylinder shaft is also
a sub assembly because it's made up of
two pieces the crank shaft is also a sub
assembly because of the
the shaft the flywheel the set screw the
crank web the crank pin they're all
sub-assembly so it's a it was made into
a some assembly all those parts and then
just placed into this model then we have
all the screws now what I did here is I
inserted the screws I got them out of
the models of the screws out of McMath
these are the screws holding the shaft
here to the cylinder I got all the
screws right out of I didn't have to
draw them I got it right out of McMaster
car you can download the modeling of a
lot of parts and a lot of hardware from
McMaster car which is pretty slick and
then you get to place them right into
your model you don't have to draw them
or redraw them or anything now the
spring is so here here's one so this is
a spring I downloaded it out of McMaster
car well they didn't make us they don't
make a spring that is the right length
and now you know easy to put in or
anything like that it instead of dealing
with mmm
instead of dealing with modifying their
spring what I did is I just ended up
drawing my own spring so you know so
back up so here's their spring it's like
an inch and a half long or something
inch and three-eighths right bore right
wire size but it's pretty long it I'd
have to you know you'd probably end up
cutting this if you bought that spring
which is okay
but I have a lot of Springs in stock I'd
say and so I just drew instead so I just
drew my own spring and put it in and
then you have the retaining cups we'll
just will put in you can just go along
and I see yeah let's see I think that's
all the parts so that's all the parts to
build the engine right there
there's a few other there's some other
fun things you can do let me see if
we'll go here you know the animation it
and in this case here what I did is I
did I told it to explode the
and you can you can animate all this I
haven't played with us a lot that in
here they're there as it explodes the
model and it shows you all the parts
where roughly where they're located some
of them are a little bit off for some
reason I it's just how it explodes them
and like these four screws go clear over
here you know they did those four screws
should have been exploded out of this
over here but you know whatever it does
if that's the computer doing it it's
kind of cool to see you can you can grab
your thing of course put them all back
together again but you can play that you
can make this into quite an elaborate
presentation I should say but it's kind
of cool to be able to see all the parts
a lot of little parts here let me just
go back here into the model
there we go and we're gonna finish up
with the model running away and being
able to watch the gears 2005 engine run
before it's even built now we're gonna
go over and go back and now we're gonna
go and get building on the engine and
we're gonna start with the cylinders so
enjoy
