First thing we want to do is remove our
dipstick. This is gonna help the engine
and frame vent properly when draining our engine oil. Up next, using a 19 millimeter
socket, remove the crankcase drain bolt
and let that oil drain completely as
well as that drain bolt that's located
in the front of the frame. As these are
draining, now's a good time to check the
condition the crush washers. If they're
damaged or missing, you'll want to
replace them to prevent any future
leaks.
Now we'll reinstall our frame drain bolt
and torque it into 22 foot pounds, and
we'll also reinstall our crankcase drain
bolt. Torque this one is 22 foot-pounds
as well.
Now it's time to remove the old oil
filter. When you're removing the old filter, make sure
you grab the rubber grommets that may
stick to this side of the case.
Now installing our new filter, we want to
make sure we put the metal nipple facing
inward towards the engine and then
reinstall our bolts. Just want to tighten
these up good and snug is all. Don't over
tighten these. Now it's time to fill the
engine with oil. Yamaha recommends that this unit holds 2.8 quarts
of 20W50 motorcycle oil. You can use
any manufacturer here, as long as the
designed for a wet clutch system. Now we'll reinstall our dipstick. And being this is
the dry pump sump system, we want to let
the engine idle for about five minutes
or so. That's going to pull the engine
oil out of the frame and into the crank
case and actually give us a better oil
level reading.
Once it's ran for about five minutes or
so, then we want to shut it off and let
it sit for about two minutes. That'll
help us check a proper oil level. Now
we'll remove our dipstick, wipe off the
excess, and simply place it back on top
of the threads and lift it out. And our
oil level looks great. Let's hit the
trail.
