the first step in disassembling the
differential is to get the ring gear off
so that you can put it in the press and
not damage the teeth - 14mm socket
 
these are regular thread not reverse
then you want to get a soft hammer
put your bearing splitter around the top bearing 
with an appropriate adapter and just press it off
now you can remove the speedo gear, it has a tab here
and a half-moon there. it just comes completely off. take note of what side goes down and what side goes up
pretty simple. alright so to start
assembly of the new differential need to
have your bearings ready and get your shim and spacer, and you can compare your original
open diff to the LSD and one thing to note with
mine is
I bought the Lotus version so see the
difference? speedo gear doesn't work. so make sure you
get the correct version of the C60
cusco type RS LSD
lucky for me I can just pull my speed
signal from the ABS module so not a big
deal
so moving forward the bearings for each
side of the differential are different. the cones are different the races are
different, the difficult part is both of
the cones will press on to either side
so what I like to do to prevent any
mistakes is...
you know the shim goes on the case side so you just match it up to the bearing.
so you know this this bearing goes in the center
case side. this is the spacer for the
bell housing which is where we start this
assembly. so that bearing matches the spacer
so you can put your spacer in the bell
housing
the race get some lubricant of some type
and just put on the inside the bore here
and then just lightly start the race. 
what I use and it's like the
perfect size is the Toyota oil
filter for the canisters... and now that its
hammered in all the way and you can tell
by not being able to turn the spacer
now we can put just bearing on the side
of the differential that faces down
you can tell its the protruding side that goes down in the hole
since my speedo gear is not gonna work in this application we're just going to
press the bearing on as is. alright so
I use a couple of
adaptors to push on just the inner race
and I'm gonna press this on until it bottoms out on the adapter
we're flush on that side
so now that we are sure that the right
bearing on this side we know for a fact
we can just put the other one on the other side. flip it over
put the other one on here
see how you can tell when its done?
it doesnt move anymore
ok now that we have both of the bearings on we can
take the ring gear and just do your best to line up the holes
you wanna to get the bolts started to help
line up..
the ring gear
I like to put in four
now you can flip it over
the rest of the bolts you put in from
here on put blue threadlocker on them
now you want to run all the bolts in all
the way..lightly
once you have them all in, flip it over. you can kind of go around and look at the edges and see a
little blue tent to make sure you put
threadlocker on all of them. now we've got to
put it in the vise and torque the
bolts properly. so you can see that I
have wrapped a rag multiple times around the
ring gear and put it in a vise. you can
see we would be torquing to 57 foot pounds, so lets go ahead and do that
and to remind myself which ones I've
tightened I'll just put a mark next to them
and now I have to release it from the
vice, turn it and get the remaining bolts
so now we can go ahead and get our
viscosity lubricant
put it all over this bearing
and then put this guy in the case. now
that we have a differential in the case
you can go ahead and put our viscosity
lubricant all over this bearing as well
you know what I like to do is cover the
bell housing with rags put a wood block
under it and then prop the middle case up
here we're going to need to drive this
other bearing race in. so you just want to
clean this guy out
any dirt or debris, take some type of lubricant and put that on there
get the shim, the original shim you  had
then you just drive this guy in
yeah it's not the easiest.
now just make sure the shim doesn't turn
and that its fully seated in there. remove your rags and all of the dowel pins should be
lubricated still
so put the case on now
see how these three are shorter than the rest?
those three go on the inside,  just put those aside
put the rest in
try to run all these in but not torque them
yet
now turn it over
and put the other three in
alright before we torque the case bolts with lube applied, we've got to establish
a benchmark and this is the case bolt torqued at 20 foot pounds dry.  I put a mark and
we'll check it again when its lubed. you can see here
that even after lubricating the bolt
our marks still line up so going to assume
that the tension on the bolt is close
whether it's lubricated or dry. In the
time that I've been putting these C
transmissions together when I do go to
torque the case bolts it doesn't seem
like they all want to take the 22-foot
sounds you can feel either the bolt or
the threads yielding so what I like to
do is start at 15 foot-pounds and go up
one at a time until you feel that
sensation
right now we've made it all the way up
to 22, so make sure you're cautious
and hold the torque wrench handle properly
now we'll repeat this process on the
remaining
now I'm going to try the 22
you can see this one wants to yeild
so you can see what I'm talking about
that they don't always take what the
manual says they should
unwind the torque wrench of all the way
set it again
lets try 20
so it seems like the verdict is you know
right around 18 foot pounds is how much
each one of them will take, some will
take 22, some will take 20, but don't over do it
okay once you've torqued your case down
properly, to check the preload I came up
with this idea. it's a 19 millimeter 3/8
socket with electrical tape around it
and you just put enough until it fits
tight and push it down in there a good
amount until it sticks and then you need
to get a inch pound beam-style torque wrench and the trick to this is well
first you want to spin it a few times
make sure it's seated and then the trick
is to you know get it turning and then
as it's turning take the reading
sometimes you may need to reseat it in there
the tape will start to
slip
you want to just barely pull it
for new bearings it is six point nine to
thirteen point nine inch pounds and as
you saw mine is around ten inch pounds, 
that's right in the middle if it was not
okay then we would have to take the case
off again and knock out our shim and go
to the next size which is DD and I
believe that goes up to two point two
five millimeter instead of two point two
