[MUSIC]
My name is
Daniel Hernandez.
I'm the editor
of Vice Mexico.
We're here outside the
Vice Mexico offices in
Colonia Roma,
in Mexico City.
And today we are gonna
take a shotgun tour of
three classic
Mexico City fondas.
[MUSIC]
I think that Fonda's
faithfully reflect
the gastronomical
traditions of
past generations
in Mexico.
At a Fonda,
everyone is equal.
Usually, there is
a menu of the day served
around lunch time.
And this starts
off with soup, and
then comes rice, or
pasta, and then the main
dish, or Quisado.
[MUSIC]
Right now we're heading
to La Beatricita, which
has been in operation in
Mexico City since 1910.
La Senora Beatrice Mucino
developed tacos that
became famous
among rioters and
politicians in Mexico.
And we're going to try
the famous Paquete,
the 58 peso
breakfast package.
So, [LAUGH] we're gonna
go and check it out.
[MUSIC]
>> Well this restaurant
is full of tradition.
It has been around
since 1907.
And since 1972 we have
been in Zona Rosa.
I think the secret,
more than anything else,
is the love we have for
the restaurant.
I am currently the last
descendant of that
generation.
And this is the last
restaurant we still have,
after more than 100
years of business.
And the main thing is
that the flavor
has not changed.
That is very difficult
to maintain.
[MUSIC]
>> Just like many
others have done, and
her brother migrated to
Mexico City in search of
a better life.
They set up a that
gradually became famous
and grown and
is still known today
as La Beatricita.
100 years later, you can
have La Beatricita
what back in the day
[MUSIC]
>> The main thing that
most people enjoy is the
mole poblano, made with
our traditional recipe.
So we have managed
to conserve our
original recipes so
that when people come,
it tastes exactly
the same.
This is the special taco.
It is fried tortilla,
filled with
chicken breast,
topped with the house
specialty, which is mole,
and then cheese and
sour cream.
[MUSIC]
What do you think
of the mole?
Have you ever tried
anything like it?
>> Off the bat,
I would say no.
[LAUGH]
>> No,
it is very different.
That is the pozole.
Look, here it is.
that is the pozole.
Look, here it is.
If you want you can add
onion, oregano, and
a little bit of salsa.
But, be careful
it is very spicy.
To accompany it, you take
a bite of the tostada,
and then you
eat the pozole.
>> It doesn't feel heavy
like pozole usually does.
This one isn't greasy.
>> No,
it's actually very light,
because the meat
is very lean.
Look, these
are the flans.
This one is vanilla and
caramel.
And this one is
coconut flan.
It is a bit
more cake-like,
and it is baked.
>> Let's do it.
[MUSIC]
Lunchtime.
[MUSIC]
Here we are in Colonia
Guerrero, a popular,
historic, very old
barrio close to
the historic city
of Mexico City.
It's time to have lunch.
For many people in
Mexico City it's
the most important
meal of the day,
the biggest meal
of the day.
In this case,
I've heard good things
about the chili relleno,
so I'm not sure what
I'm gonna have yet but
I'm leaning toward
the chili relleno.
[MUSIC]
>> Welcome and enjoy.
We hope to satisfy.
The food you eat during
your visit is flavorful,
delicious and exquisite.
If life's delicacies
are what you are after,
it's whatever food
the customer asks for.
Fly away birdie with
your adorning beauty, but
remember what awaits you
at Fonda La Reforma.
>> Bravo.
[APPLAUSE] [LAUGH]
>> Someone wrote that in
exchange for
a quick meal.
So that's just
its popularity.
It is very popular.
>> We were all born here
in this neighborhood and
so were our children.
We are all family.
That is my son.
That is my son.
The waitress is my niece.
The man with grey
hair is my brother.
We are all family.
>> This place was
established 80 years ago.
>> 80 years.
>> We used to be
across the street,
next to
the chicken place.
We were there for
75 years.
>> So
if you were there for
75 years, you have been
here for less, right?
>> Yes.
>> Less than
ten years here.
>> My mother founded
this restaurant.
She's the one who
took care of me and
my 20 brothers.
She cooked really well.
She cooked any
kind of dish.
[MUSIC]
Here the family specials
are rice, pork rinds,
stuffed chilies, mole,
pork stew, and the soup.
>> Excellent.
Let's get started
with the menu.
I'll start with the soup.
Flabby soup.
Warm and
made from scratch.
Warm and delicious.
>> The soup is prepared
with chicken stock,
pork stock, onion,
garlic, and tomato.
>> Now we are starting
the second course,
which is the rice.
It is a staple dish.
There are a couple of
chili peppers thrown in.
>> The rice is made
with corn, peas,
carrots and chilies.
>> Now we are going to
try the chile relleno
at La Reforma,
a diner with lots of
history and tradition.
It is in an area
of Mexico City
that tourists might
night visit, but
those who are in
the know, know.
This is a chile relleno,
made of dried
chile ancho.
A red chili.
The breading,
the chili and the cheese.
A perfect trifecta.
It tastes like
real home cooking,
like it was carefully
prepared by them.
It is delicious.
So dessert is here.
It is just a little
something,
half an orange,
which I think is perfect.
A good ending
to a good meal,
here at La Reforma
in Colonia Guerrero.
[MUSIC]
So, the day
isn't over yet.
We're gonna go to a place
called Fonda Margarita
in a few hours and
a, and a bit longer.
This is a place that is
special because it's open
only from sunrise
to before noon.
[MUSIC]
So, it's just past 5 a.m.
The streets of Mexico
City are pretty empty.
And now, we're headed to
Fonda Margarita famously
only opens you know,
between dawn and noon of
the next day and, so I've
never had the chance to
make it here even though
I've heard about this
place for forever and
have been wanting to go.
Never had that
warrior status to
make it here after a long
night of drinking.
But we're on our
way there now.
[MUSIC]
[FOREIGN] Looks like
there is the pork rinds,
beef in pasilla chilli.
Looks like there
is the pork rinds,
beef in pasilla chilli.
That one is the pancita.
>> Yes, it is.
>> It looks delicious.
>> We have been here for
about 48 years.
We always have the best,
freshest ingredients.
We never serve leftovers.
Look, this is
pork in salsa.
>> Ooh.
>> This is longaniza,
sausage.
>> This is just
being prepared,
they are refried beans.
>> And that is lard?
>> Uh-huh.
>> Yummy.
>> And this is where
we cook ribs, eggs.
>> Damn, everything
looks delicious.
[MUSIC]
>> Well the first to
arrive are the ones who
haven't slept yet.
Next come
the early birds,
mostly older people.
A little bit later the
families start to arrive.
>> And the dishes
start to run out,
and it's over, but
people are still in line,
aren't they?
>> Yes, we send someone
to tell them that all we
have left are eggs,
beans, or
grilled chicken.
Everyone says that is
fine and stay in line.
Sometimes it's 1 pm and
all we are serving
is eggs.
Here even our
eggs are tasty.
[MUSIC]
>> This is sausage and
egg.
>> This is pancita,
beef tripe soup.
I am dying to try it,
can I?
[MUSIC]
Let's pass this over to
our colleague, Danny D.
This is carne asada
with guacamole.
Damn, I think I am done.
[LAUGH] I think
24 hours of
visiting fondas in DF
has taken its toll.
[LAUGH]
In a city that has so
many Fondas, I think
everyone has that one
place that they
swear is the best.
The only rule here is,
you're in the know,
then you're in the know.
[MUSIC]
