“Around the world with Valery Shanin”
Travel across Iran has become the next stage of the project “Visa-free World”, within which Valery Shanin travels only to the countries for the Russians with no visa required.
In this journey his fellow travelers were
Oleg Semichev from Tashkent
Kate Klementyeva and Ludmila Kochenova from Sakhalin Island
and Michael Ivanov from Alma Ata.
Iran is a unique country.
In the opinion of UNESCO specialists it is included in the list of three countries with the wealthiest cultural and historical heritage.
And at the same time it is not included in TOP 100 on number of tourists.
The reason is evident — image of “country of evil”.
But one may reject prejudices and look at Iran with his own eyes.
Iran: Country and people
April, spring.
In Moscow snow is still lying, and tulips are already blooming in Iran.
Valery Shanin, Oleg Semichev and Ludmila Kochenova fly to Baku from Domodedovo airport three together.
They meet there Kate Klementyeva and Michael Ivanov.
They fly to Teheran five together already.
The first breakfast in Iran. Surprisingly modest.
No comparison with Turkish one, for example.
- Silence, they are looking at us.
- They are looking at you. We are not looked at.
Women have been already dressed according to the local traditions.
Women are not permitted here to go out without shawl.
Foreign women are also concerned in it.
All large cities are the same: fuss in the streets, smog, which is added with a specified stink of cheap petrol in Iran, traffic jams on the roads.
Street traffic is irregular in Teheran.
Pedestrians cross the street at any place and time they want.
Traffic lights and zebra crossing are no authority for drivers at all.
The caves of Ali Sadr are considered to be the most famous places of interest in Iran.
There is a water route for tourists, its length is two thousand metres — the longest of the boat underground routes in the world!
In the cave all the visitors have been given life jackets.
Three boats have been coupled in one train.
Catamaran has become the locomotive, where two boaters are treadling.
- Deep and long.
Should one be surprised that in the height of the season there are a lot of people who want to get to the caves.
Many of them are to wait for their turn.
As in the waiting room at the station.
- How much do the flat cakes cost?
- They cost so much money as you have.
Flat cakes were not bought.
We went to have a lunch.
And then we immediately got under way.
The petrol costs little in Iran.
To travel by taxi here is cheaper than to travel by bus in Russia.
And if splitting this sum on five people it will be almost free of charge at all.
- Our taxi driver has brought us to a disposal dump.
- We asked him to bring us to a pottery workshop.
- And he has brought us to this rubbish heap.
- He says that we can take everything we want. Give me 50 cents extra only. For a perfect rare show.
It’s not a rubbish heap, but the waste products of ceramic production.
Ready-made products are stored at the same waste plot of land.
Local people came up to get acquainted.
They took us to the nearest ceramic factory.
Furnace has been already filled with the articles ready to be burnt.
But the work still continues.
Shahre-Laledzin city, or just Lalin, in 20 kilometres northward from Hamadan — the largest center of ceramic production in Iran.
80 percent of population are involved in ceramic production or at least have an occupation connected with it.
Ceramics is made as in old times at the old way — manually.
On potter’s wheel, invented thousands years ago.
Frankly speaking, without foot drive, but with electric one.
In handicraft workshops, it can’t be called a factory, there are usually no hired people.
All work is performed by the members of one family.
Ceramics is the family business. And it’s not bad.
Because the annual income from ceramic production export only makes up more than thirty million dollars!
There are few English language experts in Iran.
One must communicate mostly with the help of pictures.
- I didn’t look at such height, he says.
Hamadan is one of the most ancient cities in Iran.
In the ancient times it was called Ecbatana.
In the center of Hamadan there is a mausoleum of Esther and Mordecai.
Nobody knows when it was built exactly.
But Jewish travelers of XIII century had already seen it.
And Jews in Iran in that time had already set out on the pilgrimage to it annually.
The book of Esther is included in Old Testament in Christian Bible.
On the wall there is a line from the book of Esther:
“Mordecai the Jew was next unto king Artaxerxes, and great among the Jews and accepted of the multitude of his brothers; seeking the wealth of his people and speaking peace to all his tribe”.
The study of other inscriptions in the tomb has shown that there were buried two brothers serving as doctors in court of Mongolian rulers in Iranе, and not Esther and Mordecai as it was thought before.
Now there are 45 thousand Jews in Iran.
They are who give money for the maintenance of the tomb.
Memorial of Saint Defense is dedicated to all Iranians, who died in Iran-Iraq war.
On the great territory grand monuments, busts of heroes, models of military equipment are installed.
In the museum there were recreated the most meaningful scenes of war, collected historic documents, photos.
Foreigners come to Hamadan rarely.
That’s why the travelers provoke curiosity every time.
- Souvenirs are liked here wildly.
The city, surrounded by green mountains, was summer residence of kings.
On the outskirts of Hamadan in canyon Alvand. In the park near waterfall Gandzhname stone writings were saved.
Fortress Nushidzhan was built in 750 B.C.
The place was wonderful: on the top of almost right cone-shaped hill standing out among the plain.
The fortress was three-storied and 27 metres high.
It enclosed Apadana palace, two Zoroastrian temples, and barracks, living accommodations and storehouses as well.
The fortress existed during Achaemanid empire and during Parthian kingdom.
- Oh, what a place it is!
Excavations were being conducted by English archaeologists under Professor David Stronakh’s supervision.
They were who built the iron roof for defense of walls made from unbaked brick.
- If the roof had not been built, everything would have been washed off here. In this case there are high walls from clay. It seems to be not the clay only, but clay with muck.
Adobe brick. Exactly.
It is not simple as it can seem. One shall come in squatting.
Because of the low entrance.
And by the way abrupt enough.
Look sharp, Michael.
- There is a kind of room underneath.
- The passage led to deadlock.
- There are prison cells underneath.
- But the entry is buried.
- We couldn’t go further.
- But still somewhere we got into.
- Thanks God that nobody has claustrophobia. You said it.
- Oh. I can unbend at least.
- He goes hitch-hiking for the first time.
- And what are the feelings?
- They are cool.
- The feelings of baptizing?
- Yes.
- Road, road.
- Yes. Yes. Yes. Clear. Yes.
- Thanks.
- The taxi driver dodged, he dodged. And brought us at the time as required. For we can catch just this train.
Near the village Bishe there is a waterfall of the same name — one of the most famous in Iran.
The travellers got here on Friday — a holiday for Muslims.
On the bank of river there is a crowd of people.
Families have gathered here.
There are large companies of youth as well.
- Could we go here!?
- Now then we live.
- Starving.
- We starve day after day. Eating kebabs.
Province Lorestan is the dampest place in Iran.
Precipitation falls here mostly.
That’s why the mountains of Zagros are so green.
- Putting a tent we admitted that it was good weather. No wind.
- And then the wind started blowing so hard!
- Our tent was broken.
- The upper part of the tent had to be removed.
- And to cover oneself with it as a blanket.
- There was some effect.
- If there was no, now we are unlike to speak at all.
In spring the slopes of the mountain Oshtoran are covered with flowers.
Among them there are unique inverted tulips or in Persian “lale-vazhgun”.
They are also called “azhke-maryam” or “Mariam’s tears”.
In Russia there are similar flowers.
They are of spotty colours by us and called hazel-grouses.
The travelers planned to walk up the mountain Oshtoran. Its height is 4050 metres.
But they couldn’t. It was drizzling from early morning.
Huntsmen  gave the travelers tea and persuaded not to go up.
Weather forecast was not comforting at all.
And there was no surprise.
Lorestan confirmed the fame of the dampest region in Iran again.
Citadel Phala-ol-Aphlak, in translation it means “The heaven of heavens”, was built in Horremabade during the reign of Sasanids III – VII centuries.
Because of the damp climate of Lorestan it was very important to locate the building in such a way that dominating winds could blow the walls and save them to grow musty from dampness.
To reach the water we had to dig the well at a depth of 40 metres.
In the mid of XX century during the reign of dynasty Pekhlevi there was a prison in fortress.
Now it is a museum dedicated to the history of the country and city.
- Aha! A new find.
In Iran Muslims-Shiites live.
It is a usual thing to see the funeral in the streets — it is mourning for Imam Hussein and other Shakhids died for the belief and fatherland.
Oriental hospitality — these two words describe the attitude of Iranians to travelers.
They are always ready to help tourists with a piece of advice, they treat and ask over.
In the evening they give lodging for a night.
Dezful was called Dezpol before.
Its name consists of two words: “dez” – fortress and “pol” - bridge, and is translated as “Bridge to the fortress” or “Reinforced bridge”.
The fortress has not been saved till our times, even if it existed.
But the bridge exists.
It was built by Roman war prisoners, captured by the army of king Shapur the Great in IV century.
From that moment the monument to the grandeur of slave labor stands here.
The ruins of water mills are seen from the bridge.
They were built in III century B.C. and were used at their intended purpose up to the beginning of XX century.
All ancient buildings in the Old City were laid from unbaked clay.
They are gradually destroyed and changed to standard concrete boxes.
Originating in mountains Zagros River Karun is the largest in Iran.
It goes in deep canyon, which separates the old city from new areas.
- It’s always useful. I offer you.
- Take, a useful thing.
- Free of charge.
- Come here. What do we have?
- Shushtar.
- Come to Shushtar.  Turn to any side street.
- And the heaps of brick are in your charge.
In III century Roman war prisoners worked in Shushtar at building of Banda-Kaysar or “Cesar’s dam”.
Construction of about 500 metres long is considered the farthest eastern bridge, built by the Romans.
Later, during the times of Sefevidov — dynasty, which began its reigning in XIV century, next to the dam engineers created a complex hydrotechnical construction.
Water was distributed in the number of separate streams for to turn the wheels of water mills.
All this variety of channels, waterfalls and rapids are included in the list of UNESCO World heritage objects.
- Nibble watermelon seeds.
- In Iranian house.
- In Shushtar.
In Iran it is difficult to refuse invitation.
And it’s silly to refuse a cup of tea in a hot day.
We decided not to stay for a night. Sun is still high in the sky.
Having taken a glance at “Hydrotechnical museum of Ancient Iran” from above – from a high precipice on the right bank of the river, the travelers went to the bus station.
- Became complete, everything is normal. Full complete set.
- Yazd is a good place. But firstly Shush.
- With music.
- Almost like Vladimir Vysockiy.
- In turn. One by one.
- They call by name.
- Now is our turn.
In the evening we got to Shush.
The fortress is lighted but obviously empty and lifeless.
Near the burial vault of Hebrew prophet Daniel, looking as the typical Shiite mosque, there is much noise and many people.
There is no place near the tomb.
And even all courtyard is crammed with people.
There are many women with children here.
They are clustering together near octagonal fountain.
And men are taking part in the ritual of remembrance of Shakhids.
- Were you really given this garment?
- Today is the holiday. People come here.
“Then I lifted up my eyes, and saw, and, behold, there stood before the river a ram which had two horns: and the two horns were high; but one was higher than the other, and the higher came up last.
I saw the ram pushing westward, and northward, and southward; so that no beasts might stand before him, neither was there any that could deliver out of his hand; but he did according to his will, and became great”.
This vision, written in the Bible in the book of Daniel the Prophet, took place on the bank of River Karun — the very river, which the tomb is standing at.
In the Scriptures of Old Testament city of Shushan is often mentioned. It was the ancient capital of Elam.
It is written about in the book of Esther, Nehemiah the Prophet and Daniel the Prophet.
But there are no exact coordinates there.
There were many hypotheses.
And only in the end of XIX century the archaeologists could hardly establish that ancient Shushan was Iranian city Shush in the province of Huzestan.
“And Mordecai went out from the presence of the king in royal apparel of blue and white, and with a great crown of gold, and with a garment of fine linen and purple: and the city of Shushan rejoiced and was glad.”
– such description is written in the Bible in book of Esther about the event that occurred here.
The most intensive excavations were conducted in the end of XIX century.
During this period in these places lived martial tribes, not obeying Persian authority.
Archaeologists had to save their lives themselves.
The government of France gave money to the building of fortress.
Later on there was opened the Archaeological museum.
- You can get some cucumbers at the ruins of Choga Zanbil.
Dur-Untash or in modern Perian Choga Zanbil is the ancient temple complex, extant from Elam state, one of the most ancient on the Earth.
It is called “zikkurat” from the Babylonian language “ziguratu” – “top of mountain”.
The main component for the building of zikkuratov was airbrick additionally reinforced by the layers of reed.
- It is the most ancient pyramid on the Earth, I dare say. And these are its builders.
The city was surrounded by three lines of wall.
The first wall surrounded zikkurat itself.
Between the first and the second walls there was king’s palace and temples dedicated to different gods.
There are few things left after them.
Excavations were conducted in the middle of the previous century by French archaeologists.
Ahvaz, the winter residence of Persian kings, now is аn administrative center of the province Huzestan.
There are few things left after this ancient city.
Along River Karun there is a park with embankment, gym apparatuses and a number of fountains.
The local bus station gives an opportunity to go to any big city of the country.
- We have driven at last.
- Not just driven. We are driving almost lying.
- A wonderful city, which the poet Esenin wrote about.
- Esenin? About Shiraz? And what did he do there?
- He went there often.
- Yes. Despite the beauty of Shiraz it is not better than expanses in Ryazan.
- Clear? Read poets of classic.
- In general Shiraz is cool. Esenin said so.
Iranian province Farce is the historic center of the country.
Its name originates from Old Iranian word “parsu” – strong man.
Later on the ground of it appeared the name of the people — Persians, and country — Persia.
The capital of the province Farce is Shiraz.
Fortress Arg Karim-han is the most impressive construction in the center of Shiraz.
During the reign of Zend dynasty in XVIII century, there were king residence here, after all - prison.
Now in the courtyard there is an orange orchard.
There is a small museum of local history in the buildings surrounded the court and decorated with huge windows.
Shiraz is one of the most popular centers for tourists in Iran.
Here you can run into foreigners. And even Russian-speaking ones.
- It is a real surprise to meet Russians here. I haven’t ever seen such Russians in Russia!
Vakil is a market in the center of Shiraz. It’s intended for tourists.
- It’s a little bit sour. Will you taste? Funny.
“When I choose a beauty of Shiraz my idol. For her mole I give Samarkand and Buharu”,
- wrote the native of Shiraz, Hadji Shams ad-Din Muhammad Hafiz Shirazi — poet and sufi master, one of the greatest lyricists of the world poetry.
In Iran he has many male admirers, and much more female ones.
They come at the tomb of their idol with the volume of favorite verses and flowers.
On the gravestone there is a verse of Hafize carved:
“When you come to this tomb, show your magnanimity. Do not judge those idlers-pilgrims, who have gathered here”.
Near Shiraz there are lots of ancient temples, palaces, tombs and cities in ruins.
Next to town Firuzabud there are ruins of Zoroastrian temple Kalehe-Doktar.
In the past there was a mountain lift.
But after Islamic revolution the number of tourists decreased greatly and the lift was closed.
Neither gates, nor fence, nor security.
- Behold there is the way.
One has to go and think about what exactly it is.
- It seems to me there is no way here. Will we jump? That’s all, here we are.
There were no ceilings in Zoroastrian temples.
Zoroastrians worshipped the Sky and the Fire — so they were called fire worshippers.
- It seems to me there is no way here. Will we jump? That’s all, here we are.
- Oh – our girls. We thought they were Iranian ones!
Palace Ardeshir Parakan was built in 221 A.D. for the king Ardeshir the First from dynasty Sasanid.
There were three grand domes on the palace.
They were to testify to the grandeur of Persian State.
The main dome, destroyed partially, rose to 18 metres.
Inside the palace there was a throne hall and an assembly hall for foreign ambassadors.
Night caught the travelers when they were on wheat field.
They stayed for the night at the edge of it.
And in the morning they departed to necropolis Nakshe-Rustam, which was just the stone’s throw from there.
The tombs of the kings from dynasty Achaemanid are carved in the rock at a decent height from the ground.
They are famous as “Persian crosses” – it’s clear why.
In the center of every giant cross in the rock there is a small cell, where there is a sarcophagus.
There are the most powerful Persian kings of VI – V B.C. buried.
Kabe-Zartosht from Persian stands for “Zoroastrian Cube” – was built in V B.C.
The triumph of Persian king Shapur the First over the roman emperors Valerian and Philip August is shown on the relief.
On the other reliefs there are scenes of great battles with participation of Persians.
On the oldest relief the national hero Rustam is supposed to be imaged.
His heroic deeds are described in details in the poem of Firdusi “Shahname”.
Old Persian city Takhte-Djamshid is famous under his Greek name — Persepolis, that literally means “City of Persians”.
The ruins of the city that from 520 B.C. was the capital of powerful empire of Achaemanid take a very large territory.
Palace Apadan stands on the terrace elevated over ground level at 4 metres.
There is a solemn procession of high officials and servants imaged on the stone plates.
Grand gates of All States decorated with giant winged oxen with human heads.
Foreign ambassadors went to the king palace through these gates.
Now it is the main entrance and exit of Percepolis for tourists.
Pasargady or “Gardens of Farce” is the ancient Persian city. Ruins are scattered at square of two square kilometres.
The mausoleum of Kir the Great rises solely right next to the entrance.
n VI B.C. he established the first Persian state.
This pyramidal-shaped mausoleum inspired architect Shchusev to build mausoleum for Lenin at the Red Square.
The ruins of two king palaces are also saved.
Then a piece of wall of the building, which is also called “Solomon’s prison”
And the fortress Tolle-takht on the hill, where one can have a glance at the whole ancient city from at once.
To be exact, the things left after it.
There are no hotels in small towns in Iran.
But there are rooms for pilgrims practically near each mosque.
Not only Muslims can stay there.
In Iran every guest is a minister of Allah.
City Yezd or Yazd is one of the most ancient cities of Iran.
It is famous for its original cooling system of houses.
Badgirs or “towers of wind” serve to “pump in” cool air into the house.
Despite the city is about five thousand years old, the most vivid architectural constructions are the mosques.
Mosque Amir Chakmack is a visit card of Yezd.
There was time when tourists were permitted to visit minarets, but now the building is in emergency state and the entrance is closed.
The figures of water carriers are installed in the fountain.
Here, among desert, water is always worth weight in gold, and water carrier is the most honorable occupation.
Friday mosque Djame was built in XIII century, but it looks strong enough.
Its minarets 52 metres high are the highest in Iran.
The entrance is free.
But except empty rooms there is nothing to look at.
Except for tourists.
Old buildings are used as hotels and restaurants for tourists.
Ancient mud dwellings are gradually destroying.
Not all hosts have enough money for expensive restoration.
There is no money even for repair of mosques.
St. Seyed Roknaddin mausoleum was built 7 centuries ago and it is also repairing inactively.
The old city is a complicated net of interlaced streets that are hidden from the scalding sun.
It is easy to get tangled there as you may not understand where eat and west are.
Markings of the crossroads will help you.
They show the direction to the most famous sights.
Zendane – Eksandar or “the prison of Alexander” doesn’t relate to Alexander the Great.
Earlier this building wasn’t a prison.
It is a madrasah built in the 15th century.
There are lots of rooms underground.
But they were dug not for keeping criminals.
It is colder there than exteriorly in the daytime.
- Look, here it is cold already.
- Really.
- And this is the way we live underground.
In Yazd there are a lot of underground rooms, often derelict.
- It is made to feel how people live underground. One gets there in such a way.
- There is no passage further.
The Zoroastrian temple Chak-chak is carved in the mountain Pire-Sabs 70 kilometers away from Yazd.
There are steps that goes from the parking to the temple.
The temple itself is a small cave with an altar and the water dripping from a ceiling.
The sound from falling drops, in Russian it sounds as "kap-kap", and in Persian "chak-chak", gave the name to an ancient sanctuary.
Water is considered to be sacred, and every pilgrim or tourist can't resist the temptation to taste it.
The mountain slope in the neighbourhood with a cave is built up with houses.
They belong to the pilgrims who arrive to the cave during the most significant religious holidays.
- The strongest alcoholic drink in Iran is a fermented dukh.
- Koumiss.
- Generally speaking. Yogurt, water, salt. And in the decent dukhs either cucumber brine or mint is added.
Meybod is one of the oldest cities of Iran.
In the XIV century, it was the capital of the country.
The fortress Narendzh, known also as the castle Narin, was constructed on the hill Galin in the pre-Islamic times.
Being in the fortress you can see quarters of one-color brick houses and narrow and curve small streets.
- This is a caravanserai.
The travelers examined old caravanserai and the so-called "Ice house" in the dark.
It wasn't possible to find either hotels or a mosque with rooms for pilgrims in Meyboda for a night.
They had to sleep in some garden under pistachios.
- Donkey was eaten there. And there we spent the night.
- What ancient garden we were in! There were bones. They belonged to a mammoth, no other variant.
From the early morning we were on the way to Isfahan.
All tourist routes around the city begin on the central square — Imam Square of Khomeini.
- By a taxi. By a cart. On foot. Too Much. We ramble. Well OK, we'll keep on going.
The square, 512 and 153 meters in size, is the largest in Iran.
It is the second by size in the world and concedes only to Tiananmen Square in Beijing.
Sheikh Lyutfulla's mosque was built on East side of the square at the beginning of XVII century after the personal order of the shah Abbas I.
The Mosque of the Imam, or the Shah's Mosque, that is the largest mosque in Isfahan, was built approximately in the same years.
Walls, niches and ceilings were decorated with a mosaic, an ornament and a ligature.
There are lots of mosques in the Old city.
Most of them are either being repaired now, or need repair urgently.
Fifty years after the death of the Prophet Muhammad, Yazidi ibn Muaviyye seized the power in the Islamic world.
The imam Hussein didn't recognize his supremacy.
The opponents met in battle-field in El-Cufi's vicinities.
"We came here not for the sake of war. But we can't surrender to the force and evil.
We will prefer death to humiliation and approval of tyranny.
And blood of those who are killed by tyrant, steadily wins a victory over the swords of this tyrant",
said the Imam Hussein before he and all his supporters and relatives were killed, and their children and women were took as prisoners.
In memory of this tragic event special ceremonies are hold on the streets of the Iranian cities and in the courts of mosques.
During these ceremonies the participants beat themselves with iron chains and lashes.
They want to feel on their own skin the torments that imam Hussein had to overcome.
And at the same time they want to pay a tribute to the memory of all Shiites who became shakhids —the sacred soldiers of Islam.
Live hens are sold in the Poultry market — as domestic pets, but not for meat.
Carrier pigeons of the most different types and colors can be found there.
And modest shell parakeets are also sold there.
And — what is absolutely surprising — colored chickens.
The excursion across Isfahan began on the central square.
And here it comes to an end. Before the sunset, when the heat starts falling down, not only tourists come there, but the local people as well.
The atmosphere is informal like in the city park on the day off.
- We are sitting on the main square of Isfahan in front of Lyutfulla's mosque and eating sandwiches.
When it gets dark all people move from the square to the central city street filled with shops and snackbars.
There are so many people that sometimes traffic jams occur.
Zyaande river flows through the center of Isfahan, dividing the city into two approximately equal parts.
Ancient bridges that are built through it are considered to be tourist sights.
But not only tourists come to the river. A park, that is very popular among the locals, stretches along it.
In the evenings, there's not an inch of room there.
The whole families come there, including grandfathers, grandmothers, grandsons and great-grandsons.
Young people of course prefer to crowd together away from parents.
On one bridge people sing bard songs.
On other — religious anthems.
There is no police anywhere.
But there are no disorders.
Nobody harms anybody. There is no drunk person on several thousands of people. It's fantastic!
- The traditional Iranian breakfast is flat cakes, oil, cheese, carrot jam, eggs, and black tea with sugar. But we could eat it in any quantity.
Kashan is the most ancient city of Iran.
Those three magicians who came to welcome the baby Jesus lived exactly there.
Old houses are not preserved today.
The earthquake that happened in 1778 razed them to the ground.
Everything that is possible to see now, has been constructed later - on ruins.
Most old buildings — palaces and mosques — were built in the XIX century.
Kashan always was a trading city.
And the local covered market is its main sight.
As in the Soviet period in the USSR there were Palaces of culture, there the real "Palaces of Trade" are.
Everything that Iran is rich in is sold on the market.
The most part of the goods, that are on sale there, is done in the neighboring rooms or directly behind a counter at the time when there is no buyers.
In the center of the market in a waiting room of an ancient bath teahouse was opened.
Tea is amazing; it goes with a wide selection of sweets and spices.
The sellers offer the visitors a traditional Iranian dish — soup-abgusht.
It is extremely hot and is sold in a clay pot, directly from the furnace.
It should be eaten skillfully.
In the beginning it is necessary to merge the liquid in a metal plate and mash the remained thick in a pot (meat, fat-tailed fat, potato and lentil) with the help of a special mortar.
The business passes from father to son.
The current owner (he is not young now) inherited it from his father and grandfather.
He remembers the time when there was not a teahouse, but a bath.
Demand for bathing services fell, so it was necessary to train for a new profession.
But the bath wasn't broken. It was preserved waiting for better times.
The covered market stretches for several kilometers.
People start working early in the morning.
And in afternoon market streets become empty.
Borudzherdi's house was built by the architect Ali-Maryam Kashani.
It is decorated with the rich stucco molding, bas-reliefs, paintings and frescos created by the artist Sani-ol-Molkom and his apprentices.
The buildings that are surrounding the yard and green vegetation are reflected in a mirror of the pool of the extended form.
The two-storeyed state-room is decorated with niches and frescos.
Behind it there is one more room, that looks simplier.
Below there is a deep cool cellar for product storage.
Mosque Aha - Bozorg is one of the most impressive and biggest constructions of Kashan.
The admission is free.
The fortress, that is situated in the very center of Kashan, was constructed by an order of Sultan Malik-shah in the XI century.
The swollen cob walls and pyramids, that are not less great than pyramids in Egypt though they are of different form, have remained till today.
- Where is water?
- Well, give me a backpack.
- Give me everything slowly.
- Well, jump off. We will throw a backpack to you.
- Aha! It will press me down! Give me a backpack.
- We are going across. It is too long to go round.
- Give me backpacks.
- He advises it to me. You should jump at once!
- Step away!
The garden Shah-Finn, or Bagh-Finn, was created in full accordance with Islamic idea of paradise.
It is walled-in and there are lots of greens and streaming water inside.
The garden was created at the beginning of the XVI century in the period when the shah Ismail the First, the founder of the Sefevid dynasty, reined.
And for the succeeding governors it remained the favourite place for having rest in Summer.
Water arrives from the Soleymaniye source.
It is rich in mercury.
This water is not recommended to drink.
But it is useful to take bath there.
There are lots green plane-trees, artificial reservoirs, fountains and ancient buildings in the garden.
- Every Iranian bus has two parts — for females and males. Women are sitting in the back of a bus, men are sitting ahead.
- We sit in the back.
- And we sit down ahead. Because we are men.
- Here. The woman should go there, to you.
The village Abyan lies at the height of 2100 meters above sea level.
- The night village was empty. Only we, five, were there.
It is very cold there in April.
Travelers preferred to stay in hotel instead of freezing in a tent.
The village Abyan is almost unchenged since the III century.
People always were isolated there, and didn't mix up with strangers.
Islam was accepted, but women didn't change the color scarfs on the black ones, traditional for Iran.
The name of the village is translated as "A place where willows grow".
Willows are really growing there, but there are much more apple-trees than willows.
The youth leaves this place searching for the job, and only old men and women live in the village.
The village was stuck to a mountain slope.
It is densely built up with red clay houses  with balconies, decorative lattices, carved wooden doors and arch windows.
There are lots of narrow streets, lanes and ladders.
There is a mosque and a grocery bench.
- Something is offered to taste. It's probably cherry plum.
- Yes. It's cherry plum.
And we are again on the way.
- It tastes like Merinda.
- And in color.
The bus stopped at a roadside snack bar on the way to Tehran.
- You are glad to return to Tehran?
- Yes. But we leave right now.
We didn't stop in the capital of Iran and went to submit the highest point of the country.
Davamand in translation from Persian means "Smoking".
Vulcan doesn't act, but its top, that is 5610 meters high, is almost constantly shrouded with clouds.
Zoroastrians claim that the evil ghost Bivarasp is shut in a subsoil of the mountain.
The smoke curling at top is his breath.
- We got to a climber’s club. To tell the truth, there were no climbers. But there is a club.
- Will we spend the night here? Yes?
Travelers found a shelter in the house of the grandfather Hassan.
Grandpa Hassan explained that the rise on a volcano wasn't difficult.
It is possible to climb on the top during a day.
But we could not return alive.
When people rise swiftly on the height over five kilometers, they usually face with height sickness.
The only well-tried remedy is gradual acclimatization.
That's why the route to top is divided on three days with spending the night in a mosque and a mountain hut.
But it is actual only for a summer season.
In April snow lies above, and it is dangerous to rise on the top even for skilled climbers with special equipment.
- Early morning. Very sunny. Warm in the sun.
So, the mountain-climbing expedition is cancelled.
But nobody forbids wandering on the lower volcano's slopes.
The track lies between two hills.
The snow that dropped out at night gradually thaws in hot rays of the April sun.
Then rather gentle slope begins.
It is not frosty, but the wind is so strong that it almost knocks down.
Having gone down from the volcano, travelers came to the highway and went to Tehran by the passing bus.
The travel across Iran comes to the end.
But "Visa-free World" project goes on.
There are new trips to the countries that are visa-free for Russians, waiting for us.
