

THE WORLD

OF

Labrador Retriever

Omar Nattouf
The world of Labrador Retriever

© 2020 by Omar Nattouf

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means – electronic, mechanical, photographic (photocopying), recording, or otherwise – without prior permission in writing from the author.

Smashwords Edition, License Notes

This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you're reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to your favorite ebook retailer and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.

## TABLE OF CONTENTS

About the BOOK

About the Author

Part One

  1. What Kind of Dog is a Labrador Retriever?

  2. Breed Characteristics

  3. History of the Labrador Retriever

  4. Choosing Your Labrador Retriever

  5. Frequently Asked Questions

Part two

  1. Before the pregnancy

  2. Stage of your Pregnancy

  3. Giving Birth (Whelping)

  4. Your puppy's Development 1-6 Month

  5. Your puppy's Development 6 MONTH to Adult

Part three

  1. First-Aid Kit for your Lab

  2. CRP for your Lab

  3. Common your Lab Emergencies

  4. Basic Healthcare

  5. Ear, Eye and Nail infections

Part Four

  1. The Science of Dog Speak

  2. The Anatomy of Dog Brain

  3. How to Speak Dog

  4. Dog's Body Language

  5. Practical Application

PART FIVE

  1. Training Tips

  2. Essential Tools for Training

  3. Puppy Socialization

Resources

# ABOUT THE BOOK

As the Owner of a Labrador Retriever who is thinking about adopting one — you probably have some questions about this breed. This book specially designed to be an integrated guide for anyone looking to explore a Labrador Retriever.

This book is covered in-depth, including five headlines:

  * History and Characteristics of the Labrador Retriever.

  * Developmental stages of your Lab.

  * Health risks for your Lab.

  * Learn how to speak your Lab.

  * How to train your Lab?

This book wrote to help build an even closer bond with your pet pooch. The author writes this fact-filled book of a dog's lover from early childhood.

# ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Omar Nattouf is a writer and is passionate about helping pet parents to create a pleasant and healthy lifestyle through positive enrichment for a long, vibrant life of their four-legged friends.

His love of dogs stem from early childhood and has since found a passion for writing a series of books about pets.

# PART ONE

# HISTORY OF

# THE

# LABRADOR RETRIEVER

The Labrador retriever maintains its reign at the top in 2019, where it is the most common dog breed in the country for the 28th straight year, according to the American Kennel Club.

"This is a do-everything breed that needs to be with its humans,'' Labrador breeder Erin Hanlon-Hall said in a news release. "It personifies the definition of versatility – hunting, showing, family, dock diving, tracking, obedience. It's as American as baseball, hot dogs, and apple pie."

This part contains five-chapter which distributed as follows:

  1. What Kind of Dog is a Labrador Retriever?

  2. Breed Characteristics

  3. History of the Labrador Retriever

  4. Choosing Your Labrador Retriever

  5. Frequently Asked Questions

1

# WHAT KIND OF DOG

# IS

# A LABRADOR RETRIEVER?

The Labrador Retriever is the most popular breed of dog in Canada, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Good-looking, smart, and fun-loving, the Lab has a lot going for him. He's large, but not too large; he's calming and easygoing when he's not exuberantly fetching a tennis ball or a bird. He's a do-it-all kind of dog.

The Labrador Retriever bred to be both a friendly companion and a useful working dog breed. Historically, they earned their keep as a fisherman's helper: hauling nets, fetching ropes, and retrieving fish from the chilly North Atlantic.

Today's Lab is as good-natured and hardworking as their ancestors. Modern Labs work as retrievers for hunters, show competitors, assistance dogs, show competitors, and search and rescue dogs, among other canine jobs.

Physical lineaments and mental characteristics should denote a dog bred to perform as a dynamic Retriever of game with a stable temperament steady for a diversity of pursuits behind the hunting environment.

The Lab was the earliest dog on the cover of Life magazine and the first canine face to grace a U.S. stamp.

Other Names: Labrador, Lab.

Breed Type: Purebred.

AKC Group: Distinguished by the American Kennel Club in 1917 as a Sporting breed.

FCI Group: Recognized by FCI in the Retrievers - Flushing Dogs - Water Dogs group, in the Retrievers section.

Breed Recognition:

  * HEAD AND SKULL

Skull broad with defined stop; It is a clean-cut without fleshy cheeks. Jaws of medium length, sturdy, not snippy. Nose large, nostrils well-developed.

Eyes: They are medium size, expressing communication and good temper; brown or hazel.

Ears: They are not large or heavy, hang up close to head, and set instead far back.

Mouth: Jaws and teeth solid with a regular, perfect, and complete scissor bite, i.e., upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set quadrate to the jaws.

Neck: Clean, powerful, strong, powerful, set into well-placed shoulders.

Forequarters: placing legs well underbody. Forelegs are well straight and boned from elbow to ground when viewed from either front or side.

Body: It is shoulders long and well laid back, with the upper arm of near-equal length, Chest of right width and depth, with well-sprung barrel ribs - this effect not to be produced by carrying excessive weight. Level topline. Loins broad, short-coupled, and healthy.

Feet: They are compact, round, well-arched toes, and well-developed pads.

Tail: It is a distinctive feature, very thick towards base, gradually tapering towards tip, medium length, free from feathering, but clothed all-round thickly with a thick, short, dense coat, thus giving 'rounded' appearance described as 'Otter' tail.

May be carried merrily but should not curl over the back.

Coat: Distinguishing feature, short dense without wave or feathering, giving somewhat hard feel to the touch; weather-resistant undercoat.

Sizes: Ideal height at withers:

Dogs 56 - 57 cms (22-22.5 ins)

Bitches 55 - 56 cms (21.5 - 22 ins).

Life expectancy: It is from 10 – 14 years.

Weight: Male: 29–36 kg Female: 25–32 kg.
2

# BREED CHARACTERISTICS

## ADAPTABILITY:

  * Adapts well to apartment living:

Labrador Retriever is more than suited for building a life. If you exploit the thought and care to create a loving natural ecosystem that is safe and constructed, your apartment will be a haven of health, joy, and satisfaction for both you and your Lab.

  * Suitable for novice owners:

Labrador Retriever is more comfortable than other breeds: They take to training better and are easygoing. They're also flexible enough to bounce back from your mistakes or inconsistencies. Susceptible dogs, free-thinking, or assertive may be harder for a first-time owner to manage.

  * Sensitivity level:

Labrador Retriever is of low-sensitivity dogs, also called "easygoing," "tolerant," "flexible," and even "thick-skinned," which can better deal with a noisy, messy household, a louder or more assertive owner, and an inconsistent or changeable routine.

  * TOLERATES BEİNG ALONE:

Labrador Retriever loves to live very carefully with their family and more prone to fear or even panic when left only by their owner. An anxious dog can be very devastating, barking, whining, chewing, and if not causing rush. These breeds do best when a family organ is a home during the day or if you can take the dog to work.

  * Tolerates cold weather:

The Labrador retriever has a short, thick, water-repellent double coat that provides excellent resistance to severe weather, icy water, and various kinds of ground cover. Their double up coating helps them tolerate cold temperatures keeping them reasonably comfortable in the cold weather.

  * Tolerates hot weather:

The Labrador retriever is a heat-sensitive breed, he will need to stay inside with you on warm or wet days, and you'll need to be extra careful about practicing your dog in the heat.

ALL AROUND FRIENDLINESS

  * Affectionate with Family:

Labrador retrievers are known for being sweet family dogs that build strong bonds with their owners.

  * Incredibly Kid Friendly Dogs:

The Labrador retriever is gentle with children; they're a good fit for active families who enjoy a lot of free time swimming and playing in the snow.

  * Dog-Friendly:

Kindness toward dogs and friendliness toward humans are two completely different things. Labs are usually good with other dogs, and other pets if training has toned down their natural exuberance. They are energetic dogs and need some obedience training at an early age.

  * Friendly toward strangers:

Labs are the most common dog in the United States, and its temperament toward people is almost unparalleled. Labradors are remarkably social toward everybody they meet, and many behavioral problems in the breed arise because of their want to be around people.

Labrador Retriever dogs score out of 5 in the scale of breeds that are considered the friendliest dogs to strangers.

HEALTH GROOMING

  * Amount of shedding:

Labrador Retrievers are known for dropping a lot of hair. Labs shed a small amount of hair throughout the year, but the shedding rises twice a year noticeably during molting season, this is also known as shedding season.

  * Drooling Potential

The Labrador Retriever is an average drooler. Drooling is the natural saliva flowing outside of the mouth.

Drool-prone dogs may drape ropes of slobber on your arm and leave big, wet spots on your clothes when they come over to say hello.

  * General Health

Due to weak breeding practices, some breeds are prone to specific genetic health problems, such as hip dysplasia. That doesn't purpose that every dog of that breed will appear those diseases; it just means that they're at a raised risk.

Some of the general health conditions that affect Labradors are patellar luxation, canine hip dysplasia (CHD), and osteochondritis dissecans (OCD), which is canine elbow and shoulder dysplasia.

  * POTENTIAL FOR WEIGHT GAIN

According to investigators from the University of Cambridge in the UK, more than a fifth of Labrador retrievers carry a genetic difference that influences them to weight gain, reports Nicola Davis for The Guardian. It means that, In spite of how much owners intend to feed their dogs, some labs will always seek out more food and, consequently, gain weight faster, though overfeeding is something owners should avoid.

  * SIZE

Labs are a medium-big breed. They should be as long from the withers to the low of the tail as they are from the floor to the withers. The AKC standard contains an ideal weight for males of 65–80 lb (29–36 kg) and females as 55–70 lb (25–32 kg).

TRAINABILITY

  * Easy to train

Labrador Retrievers are generally easy to train. But this is a very energetic breed, and if they don't get enough frequent exercise, training can become more complicated.

  * Intelligence

According to psychology professor and dog communication expert Stanley Coren, Labs rank among the ten most intelligent breeds of dog on the planet. Coren measures breed knowledge based on obedience and working intelligence and ranks Labs as the seventh-highest breed on the canine intelligence scale.

Dogs who bred for jobs that require decision making, intelligence, and concentration need to exercise their brains.

Obedience training and communicating dog toys are perfect ways to give a dog a brain practice, as are dog sports and careers, like graciousness and search and rescue.

  * Potential for mouthiness

Mouthy dogs are more probable to use their mouths to hold or "herd" their human family members, and they need the training to learn that it's fine to gnaw on chew toys, but not on people. Mouthy breeds tend to enjoy a game of fetch, as well as a good chew on a chew toy that stuffed with kibble and treats.

  * Prey Drive

Prey drive is responsible for behaviors related to catching, chasing, and killing prey.

Chasing fast-moving objects such as passing motorbikes or squirrels in the park, games of tug, shaking items strenuously in their mouth as if to 'kill it' are all behaviors stemming from this drive.

Mostly speaking, Labradors have a strong prey drive. But they can readily be trained to keep it in check by actively redirecting unwanted prey drive behaviors with hunting style games.

We can channel the drive into games of fetch, chase and tug with a rope, while actively discouraging risky chasing and catching of bikes or small animals for safety.

  * A tendency to bark or howl

Labradors are not the breed most probable to howl. DNA tests show us that dogs descended from wolves; they are, in fact, the same species. And howling is expected to be an automatic part of that genetic inheritance.

EXERCISE NEEDS

  * Energy Level

The Labrador has become such a communal family pet that it forgot to be an athletic and energetic breed.

They need an enormous amount of exercise and mental stimulation, and they're more probable to spend time jumping, playing, and examining any new sights and smells.

  * Intensity

The Labrador has a high-energy, he does with vigor: he strains on the leash, tries to plow during obstacles, and even eats and drinks with great huge gulps.

  * Exercise Needs

Labs need daily, vigorous exercise - especially those that bred for physically demanding jobs, such as herding or hunting. Without enough exercise, Labs may put on weight and vent their pent-up power in ways you don't like, such as barking, chewing, and drilling.

  * Potential for playfulness

Some Labs are perpetual puppies - always begging for a game - while others are more serious and sedate.

3

# HISTORY OF THE LABRADOR RETRIEVER

Labrador Retrievers have a long account that tied to human activity due to their usefulness on land. They are a centuries-old breed and have been the close companions of many notable figures throughout history. Great stories, paintings, and sculptures alike have immortalized this beautiful dog.

Registers from the 1600s show that European fishing vessels were frequent guests to the Maritimes. Because these travelers often arrived with dogs, their European breeds most probable crossed with native dogs to contribute to today's Labrador. These most probably included the Portuguese Water Dog and Great Pyrenees. Eventually, two distinct types developed: the so-called Lesser St. John's Dog (who grew into the Labrador Retriever) and the Greater St. John's Dog (who became the Newfoundland). Both were invaluable assistance to fishers.

Labrador Retriever history began in the late 1500s upon the island of Newfoundland, in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador, a northern region of Canada. It is here that the forefather of today's Labs lived and bred.

## HISTORY OF NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

Indians and Inuit (Eskimos) initially settled Newfoundland. The Vikings were the first Europeans to set foot on Newfoundland were.

At the end of the 10th century, the Vikings, led by Ericsson, made several journeys of exploration from Greenland to overseas lands to the west and southwest and created a temporary settlement at L'Anse aux Meadows on the Great Northern Peninsula of the Island

In 1497: John Cabot, a Venetian navigator, sailed on a journey of discovery for Henry VII of England and found out new lands, he landed in what we now call Newfoundland (called Terra Nova initially) The island of Newfoundland was most likely first named by the Italian John Cabot (Giovanni Caboto).

In 1500: the Portuguese explorer Gaspar Corte-Real made a more thorough exploration and called several bays and capes along the east coast of the Island. In 1535–36, Jacques Cartier demonstrated that Shortly after that, fishers from England, Spain, Portugal, and France began to visit the Grand Banks through the summer months regularly.

Through the 17th and 18th centuries, there were numerous different settlements established on the Newfoundland coast, chiefly by the English and French. Some of them, such as Cupids and Ferryland, were officially planned; others were composed of over-wintering fishers and developed spontaneously. It was not, despite that, until the second half of the 18th century that an enormous population came to live continuously in Newfoundland.

  THROUGH THE 18TH CENTURY: Newfoundland Dogs began to rise in popularity and numbers, and it is around this time that the Newfoundland starts to appear in literature and journals.

1800: FIRST DOG IMPORTED TO ENGLAND

          1860

The first registered official showing of the Newfoundland was at the National Dog Show in Birmingham, England. Six Newfoundlands entered. The National show keeps going to this day and is considered the world's oldest surviving dog show.

1881

Author Richard Wolters published his book (The Labrador Retriever) he indicated in his book that there are Two males survived extinction because they were in a very distant part. There were no female dogs left to reproduce, so these look-alikes to have been the last two original St. John's dogs. In that period, Lassie (Standing on the right) was 13 years old, and his brother (Standing on the left) was 15 years old.

Notice these dogs also have the white toes and muzzle like the initial Labradors in England. This trait appears to have bred out of the dogs since the only white markings AKC permits at this time is perhaps a small white spot on the chest. Occasionally, one will find some white hairs on the toes or footpads still nowadays. That likely traces to the authentic dogs. Often Labs will have their faces and toes get white as they age as well.

1881

The Scottish Kennel Club exists to protect and promote the interests and well-being of dogs in Scotland.

A casual meeting of the third Earl of Malmesbury (at age 75) with the sixth Duke of Buccleuch (1831-1914) and twelfth Duke of Home (1834-1918) protected Labs from extinction. Buccleuch and Home were visiting an ill Aunt and determined to participate in a waterfowl shoot on the South Coast. There the two men felt admiration by what Malmesbury's dogs were capable of doing. These were the matching bloodlines as their father's kennels. Malmesbury reported that he had protected the bloodlines pure as he could with the bring in dogs from Newfoundland. Malmesbury provided them some of his dogs to bring on the breeding program.

  * The dogs were Ned (born 1882) and Avon (born 1885).

The dogs Buccleuch Avon and Buccleuch Ned, given by Malmesbury to Buccleuch, were mated with bitches carrying blood from those primarily imported by the 5th Duke and the 10th Earl of Home. The offspring considered to be the ancestors of modern Labradors.

Buccleuch Avon is the ancestor of most American Field Champion chocolate lines or chocolate gene carriers' routes.

1885

  * The measure was accepted by the house of representatives to support sheep breeding. An enormous license imposed on dogs.

  * There was a higher tax rate on females than males, which lead to many female pups broken at birth.

  * Couple this with the English passing the British Quarantine Act, and it made importation next to unattainable

     **1903**

Labrador Retrievers recognized in England as a Kennel Club breed.

1916

The Club was established in 1916 and was the first club to be created purely with the interests of the Labrador Retriever in mind.

In those early days, when the Labrador breed was becoming established, the founding committee was responsible for setting up the guidelines for its development. The first Club Chairman was the Hon Arthur Holland-Hibbert (Munden), later Lord Knutsford; the Secretary was Mrs. Quintin-Dick (Banchory), later Lorna.

IN THE 1930S

The Banchory kennel also reproduced the chocolate gene through their prominent sire, Field Champion Banchory Night Light, a black dog descended from Avon. Two extra British kennels, Tibshelfs and Cookridge, both were producing chocolate Labradors as far back as the 1930s. The dogs from these kennels continued during two prominent sires: Buccleuch Avon and Banchory Bolo.

## LABRADORS IN AMERICAN

The breed's primary advocate in the United States was Franklin B. Lord, who imported Labradors from Lorna Howe of England's Banchory Kennels.

1917

First registered by the AKC in the United States of America.

1927

There were still only 23 Labradors registered.

1928 Article in the magazine American Kennel Gazette called "Meet the Labrador Retriever" that they became more well known.

1929

A dog named Kinclaven Lowesby was the first yellow Labrador recorded in the AKC studbook. He was an imported son of FC Hayler's Defender and recorded as the color 'golden'.

1931

The Labrador Retriever Club founded in the United States and the first American field test for Labs in Chester, NY, held at the Glenmere Court Estate.

1932

The AKC registered the first 'liver-colored' Labrador. The dog's noun was Diver of Chiltonfoliat, who heavily lined breed from a dog called Borris de main. Borris de Main was a yellow bitch born in 1920 that looked like to load the chocolate gene. The color was an expressive category at one time, and you could write in the markings.

1933

  * Ming was born in England. He exported to America, and he became the first yellow American Field Champion.

  * The American Kennel Club held its first National Specialty offer in May 1933 in New York City, where judge Mrs. Marshall Field donated Best in Show to Boli of Blake, owned by Mr. Lord. In November of this year, it became the first American Champion Labrador.

  THE LATE 1940'S AND 1950'S: The two World Wars significantly reduced the breed in numbers. After the Second World War viewed the rise of the Labrador Retriever in America, where Britain's Sandylands kennel through imports returning to Eng CH Sandyland's Mark affected The shape and direction the show lines took in this country, other active dogs include American Dual CH Shed of Arden, a grandson of English Dual CH Banchory Bolo, primarily evident in field trial lines.

THROUGHOUT THE POST WWII ERA: THE PUBLICITY OF LABRADORS INCREASE TO ALL OF THE POPULATION IN THE UNITED STATES.

1940

The first American bred chocolate Labrador registered in the AKC as Kennoway's Fudge. This dog was a linebreeding of the English dog FC Banchory Night Light descended from Buccleuch Avon.

1941

The National Retriever Club established in the United States.

## THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ENGLISH AND AMERICAN LABRADORS

THE OFFICIAL WORDS

The truth is the terms American Labradors, and English Labradors are not official. Nevertheless, they are universally recognized, and the distinction is visible in the body built of dogs.

In a statement, the Labrador Retriever Club, the only organization officially realized by the AKC Club, as the national parent club of the Labs breed, made clear this cause.

"Within Labrador Retriever breed type, there are differences in body style which have improved to outfit the use of the dog, as well as the predilections of breeders and owners," The LRC website tells. "In the United States, the general public has begun to label these. Differences mistakenly as 'English' or 'American' style. Perhaps the best description of differences in vogue is 'show/confirmation' or 'working/field' styles."

Although the LRC noted that:

"show/conformation" and "field/working" are the preferred terms to recognize these dogs, dog lovers widely use the words American Labrador and English Labrador as labels or nicknames for Labradors with lineage from their competent countries, and there is a cause for that due to some natural variations.

THE ENGLISH LABRADOR

  * DISTINCTIVE PHYSİCAL TRAİTS

It is Shorter body and legs with a standard between 21.5 and 22.5 inches.

Looks more substantial with stockier, blockier, and heavier built, bone structure, and barrel chests.

More full heads with a more pronounced and defined stop.

Fuller face

shorter muzzle

Thicker neck.

Thicker fur

Thicker and straighter tail.

Shorter legs

  * DIFFERENCE IN TEMPERAMENT

Calmer, sweeter, and more docile

Less active and quieter

Sweet, mellow, extraordinarily relaxed and quieter

Suited to life as a family pet

THE AMERICAN LABRADOR

  * DISTINCTIVE PHYSİCAL TRAİTS

It is Taller with standard tallness varying from 21.5 to 24.5 inches.

It has a lighter, slimmer looking body with a thinner and more athletic build and more delicate bone structure.

Narrower head.

Thinner face

Longer muzzle.

Longer and thinner neck.

Thinner coat.

The thinner, less 'otter-like' tail

Longer legs

  * DIFFERENCE IN TEMPERAMENT

smarter and more headstrong.

a very active outdoor lifestyle

much like an Olympic athlete and truly physically elite.

Suited to life as a hunting partner

SHOULD I GET AN AMERICAN LABRADOR OR AN ENGLISH LABRADOR?

Are you planning to have a Labrador but hesitated on what type to get?

You should consider your circumstances and the level of activity.

American Labradors are very energetic and will need lots of mental and physical stimulation. If you like a higher grade of activity or hunting games, American Labrador is the number-one for you. Anyway, if you want a Lab that does not too much energy, an English Labrador is the most suitable.
4

#  CHOOSING YOUR LABRADOR RETRIEVER

Since Labradors are such a popular dog option, there is a high request for Labrador breeders. Therefore, there are plenty of breeders that you will likely be able to select it.

That said, not all Labrador breeders are concerned in providing you with a healthy, goodness Lab puppy.

## IMPORTANT TIPS

Here are five serious tips to follow while distinguishing reputable breeder

  * Meet Breeders

Responsible Labrador breeders are every time ready to discuss their prized ownership. Being the protector of the Labrador breed, they are aware of the dog and like to attract people concerned in dogs sponsored by them. You may meet any of such breeders and express your wish to buy an original puppy from him. Talk to the breeder about his certificates and association with Labradors. Visit their kennel to see the status of their dogs.

Inexpert or irresponsible dog breeders, otherwise, typically focus on selling as many puppies as they can without troubling whether they are going to a right home or not. They may not be open to comprehensive discussions about the dog or inquire about your efficiency to raise a puppy.

  * Ask Questions About Labradors

Labrador breeders with the right name are open to any questions on this breed of dog. They have nothing to be secreted, and they should be more than concerned about telling you about the dog and its purebred features. Despite that, make sure the decision is not one-sided. Before visiting a Labrador breeder, ask him actively to inquire about his experience.

Some fundamental questions to ask during your visit must include the following.

  * What is his experiment as a breeder?

  * What are the certificates?

  * How recognized is he with the Lab puppies' ancestry DNA?

  * Is the breeder recorded with a Lab club?

  * How many times has he shared in Lab shows or dog competitions?

  * Were Owners screened for genetic health cases before being bred?

  * Are there any health problems related to the determined line of Labs?

  * Is there any recent infection of parvovirus or other contagious diseases in the kennel?

  * Have puppies been born with any unwanted characteristics in the past?

  * Does he have puppy papers, ancestry specifics, dog recordings, and health certificates of parent dogs?

## PAY A VISIT TO THE KENNELS OF LABRADOR BREEDERS

You must stickle on visiting the kennel of a breeder. Call for the breeder to offer you various parts of his kennel. The ambiance and facilities at kennels talk volumes about Labs and help you distinguish if he is authentic and respectable.

Check the surrounding for cleanliness and make sure the breeder patronizes his dog humanely.

ASK ABOUT VETERINARY CARE

The typical age to offer for sale a Lab puppy is around when he is eight weeks old. Currently, a puppy gets his first vaccination and deworming. Nevertheless, some breeders hold on until 8 or 9 weeks of age to do these. Subsequently, it is necessary to ask the breeder whether the dogs have already received vaccine shots or what type of veterinary care they have. It is critical to know what kind of healthcare a puppy needs when you are fetching him home. You can also ask for medical records to emphasize that the parents and puppies have regular and proper vaccination and deworming. Ask About Puppy Papers

Labrador breeders are bound to follow specific standards set by their respective kennel clubs while selling a puppy. It includes providing a buyer with necessary papers regarding a puppy's registration, maternal health, pedigree details, etc. They are even docile to sign a contract and provide guarantee assuring that the puppy is purebred and free from genetic deficiencies.

A well-respected breeder makes a lifetime pledge to the puppies that they breed and is always eager to help a pet owner. Despite this, you must obtain a written assurance for such determination.

If the Labrador puppies not yet registered with the kennel club, the breeder must also supply you with the proper information so that you can record your dog later. Without the AKC certification, you have no evidence that your dog is, in fact, an original Lab.

  * Exhibits signs of separation anxiety if left alone too much.

THERE ARE SOME OF THE REASONS WHY LABRADOR RETRIEVERS ARE THE MOST POPULAR DOGS IN AMERICA?

  * LABRADOR RETRIEVERS ARE INTELLIGENT AND HIGHLY TRAINABLE

The AKC notes that Labrador retrievers are not only friendly, but they're also smart. These intelligent dogs want to please their owners. So, they're highly trainable. As with any other dog, training is still working. But Labs are up for the challenge (unlike many other dogs, who resist the process all the way). Labs are loyal to their owners and will take their cues from you. They'll go on a run around the neighborhood with you, or they'll cuddle up with you on the couch if you need a quiet evening at home.

  * LABS LOVE CHILDREN

Another reason why Americans love Labrador retrievers so much?

These dogs make great companions for children. They love children. (And they don't make the list of dog breeds that are worst for families with small kids.) Like any dog, Labs need to supervise around very young children. But they're affectionate, patient, and often love spending time with the smallest members of your family. They also love to play fetch — a game; both little humans and young dogs can quickly figure out together.

  * LABS LIVE LONG AND HEALTHY LIVES

When you bring a dog into your home, you want him or her to stay a part of your family for many years to come. We note Labrador retrievers often do because they can live long and healthy lives. (That's especially true if you feed them a balanced diet and help them get plenty of exercise.) Labrador retrievers live an average of 12 years. So, one of these dogs can remain a part of your family for a very long time.

  * LABRADOR RETRIEVERS DON'T NEED EXPENSIVE TRIPS TO THE GROOMER

People who want easy-going dogs find a lot to love in Labrador retrievers — as do people who want to avoid expensive trips to the groomer. We note these dogs require only very occasional trips to the groomer. And unlike many dogs with long coats, Labs don't need to be brushed for hours every week. Of course, that doesn't mean Labs never need to be cleaned or that they won't need the occasional bath. But they're much easier to keep well-groomed than many other dog breeds.

  * LABS WANT TO BE HELPFUL

Labs often become guide dogs or search-and-rescue dogs. Some even get trained as therapy dogs. Sure, it helps that Labs take training well. But according to the AKC, "The Labrador retriever's willingness to please makes them outstanding search and rescue dogs, as well as guide dogs for the blind." Labs are the breed of choice to serve as guides and rescue dogs. That means the breed's desire to be helpful pays off.

  * LABS CAN LEARN NOT TO PLAY HARSH

If you have small children, you might be anxious about a dog as big as a Lab fortuitously injuring one of the tiny humans in your family. But as Labrador Training HQ reports, Labs were bred "to retrieve downed prey, such as ducks, rabbits, grouse, etc." The link between the two? Even though a dog's habitual instinct "is to bite down on flesh," that's not true for the Lab. Labs have "unthinkable control of jaw muscles," and they can be taught to play without biting down.

  * LABS HAVE VENTURESOME AND PLAYFUL PERSONALITIES

One more thing American care very much for Labs? These dogs have daring personalities. Labs are typically affable around new people. Labs often want to be the first to welcome someone new. And they often have no worries about saying hi to foreigners on the beach or in your neighborhood. Labs also do considerable socializing at cookouts and parties, which makes them more adoring to their owners.

  * ARE LABS FORM PERFECT ATHLETES IN THEIR OWN RIGHT?

Does everybody in your family play a sport? Your Lab can, too. The AKC reports, "With their mixing of physical capability, brilliance, and eagerness to please, Labs excel at dog sports like rally, chasing, field trials, obedience, and lightness." Specialized training and competitions aren't for everyone. But they can make an enjoyable activity for Lab owners and their dogs to do with each other.

  * LABRADOR RETRIEVERS STAY KINDLY HEALTHY.

Notwithstanding Labs may be prone to obesity, they aren't the costliest breed when it comes to medical expenses. Pet Breeds records that Labrador retrievers are the 18th most high-priced breed to own with regards to medical costs. That means a Lab is less probable to have costly medical issues than many other kinds of dogs. Labs still need to go to the vet, naturally. But they often stay in good health than a different variety of dogs and aren't prone to any injuries or health conditions.

  * LABs ARE marvelous

The American Kennel Club considers that if Labs went to high school, they'd earn the prize for "Best Looking." Labrador retrievers come in three attractive colors: black, chocolate, and yellow. As the AKC says, the Lab's "'otter' tail, dense weather-resistant coat, and authentic expression" all contribute to his uniquely unusual appearance.

5

#  FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

  * WHAT KIND OF WORK CAN LABRADORS DO?

Besides hunting, doing field trials, and being terrific pets? Quite a bit. Many Labradors used as Service and Therapy dogs, for example. Still, others do very well in Search and Rescue work, as well as making excellent Bomb, Narcotic, and Arson dogs.

Their nose, disposition, and trainability make them particularly suitable for these types of activities, and the breed has a distinguished history in these endeavors.

  * HOW SOCIABLE ARE LABRADOR RETRIEVERS? ARE THEY FRIENDLY WITH STRANGERS?

Yes, most Labs are happy to see everyone. They'll bark when someone comes to the door, but they're not protective. It is a friendly, trusting breed.

  * ARE LABRADOR RETRIEVERS GOOD WITH CHILDREN?

Most Labs are among the best possible dogs for children.

Young Labs (up to two or three years old) romp and jump with vigor. That means things can go flying – including people.

If your Lab has been allowed to jump on people, you should stop this behavior immediately. Jumping can injure people, and even when it doesn't, it puts a dog in a heightened state of arousal that isn't good for him.

If you don't yet have your dog and your home includes toddlers or infirm adults, you might consider skipping the challenging puppy and adolescent stages. Look into adopting an adult Labrador Retriever from a rescue group. Adults have a more settled temperament, and you can specifically look for a calm one.

  * ARE LABRADOR RETRIEVERS GOOD WITH OTHER PETS?

The AKC registered the first 'liver-colored' Labrador with livestock, and even fine with tiny pets such as rabbits and ferrets.

Of course, introductions should make it properly. Don't just plunk a baby bunny onto the floor and let your full-grown Lab loose in the room. Even a friendly dog can make mincemeat of a small, fragile creature only by jumping on it.

  * WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A LABRADOR AND A RETRIEVER?

There are many differences include:

(coat length, hair type, body length, behavior, activity level).

There are six breeds recognized as Retrievers by the AKC. They are Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, Chesapeake Bay Retrievers, Flat-Coated Retrievers, Curly Coated Retrievers, and Irish Water Spaniels.

There are other breeds of Retrievers not currently recognized by the AKC, for example, CKC's Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever.

  * ARE LABRADOR RETRIEVERS GOOD PETS?

If you get a Labrador Retriever puppy, you may be amazed at how well they can train as a family pet. They are arguably the best dog breed to have as a family pet. The Labrador Breed is even-tempered and very eager to please their handlers.

  * DO LABRADOR RETRIEVERS MAKE GOOD HUNTING DOGS?

Yes! Labs make excellent hunting dogs and can be taught many K9 hunting methods beyond Duck and Goose retrieving. Their specialty is diving into a lake from a boat in the cold fall weather and returning their hunter their fallen fowl. Don't worry, and the cold water is no issue for them.

  * ARE LABS HYPOALLERGENIC?

The short answer is no. Labradors are better than some other breeds for allergy sufferers, but the best kinds for avoiding allergies are the Portuguese Water Dogs and Poodles. If you suffer from allergies, take some time and spend it with a Labrador to see if their proteins in dogs' skin and saliva or even dander in the fur irritate you. You may find out that you can tolerate your symptoms or, you may not also have any!

  * DO LABS MAKE GOOD EMOTIONAL SUPPORT OR COMFORT DOGS?

Yes, they do, and don't forget therapy dogs or guide dogs. They can train for many different service dog tasks such as Police work, Bomb or Drug Dogs, Diabetic dogs, Cancer sniffing dogs, and more. When teaching them to become a comfort dog, they are, of course, trained in basic obedience as well as being able to tolerate the hugs, crying, and such from their handlers.

  * HOW MUCH EXERCISE DOES A LAB NEED?

Labs are working dogs and working dogs will need to stimulate both physically and mentally each day. No, there is no reason to believe that any color of Lab will need more exercise than the next.

Be sure that when exercising your Lab that there are two aspects of exercise. One being intensity and the other being duration.

  * DO LABRADORS LIKE TO SWIM?

Labradors love to swim. In general, they take to swimming quite naturally. But don't be alarmed if your little pup is unsure about swimming the first time–they must learn about swimming just like anything else.

Never throw a young puppy into the water! If you have an adult dog around that enjoys swimming, the pup will probably follow it happily. You could also wade in yourself and have the puppy follow. Be aware, though, that puppies have sharp nails, which can be painful if they try to climb up on you in the water. Let the dog explore the pool at his own pace; if he wants to splash and wade, for now, let him. As he gains confidence, he will go in deeper.

Another important caveat is that dogs should not be allowed unattended access to a swimming pool unless you know that they know how to get out. Dogs often cannot easily pull themselves out of the lake, and even strong swimmers will tire if they can't find an easy way out of the water.

  * WILL A MALE OR FEMALE LABRADOR MAKE A BETTER PET?

When it comes to gender, many people want female dogs. They have a reputation for being more comfortable to handle and "cleaner," as far as not marking in the house. There can be some surprising differences between the sexes, however, so don't automatically rule out one over the other.

In personality, male Labs tend to be sweeter, believe it or not. They're often mama's boys that will stick close to the woman of the house.

On the downside, males will lift a leg and urinate on just about anything inside or outside the home. It takes training and patience to redirect or control this habit.

Without careful supervision, a female will escape in search of a male to meet her sexual needs. Spaying eliminates these concerns and spaying a female before her first season dramatically reduces her chances of developing breast cancer. Females can be independent. When it comes to relating to other dogs in the household, they are often the leaders of the group. They tend to be more protective and may well be the first to bark at anything unusual. Calmer and quieter than males, a female Lab is the right choice if you have younger children that she can nurture. Be aware that unless a female spayed, she will go into the season — sometimes referred to as "heat" — twice a year, for about three weeks each time. During this hormone-driven period, you can expect her to spend a lot of time licking her swollen genitals and enthusiastically humping anyone or anything she can find. You'll need to protect your carpet and furniture from her bloody discharge, which can range from light to heavy.

  * WHAT HEALTH RISKS FOR LABRADOR RETRIEVERS?

Labrador retriever dog Hip and elbow dysplasia can be a problem, so be sure to look for breeders that certify their dogs through OFA or Wind-Morgan. Progressive Retinal Atrophy and Retinal Dysplasia are both problems in this breed, so dogs bred must be examined yearly by a veterinary ophthalmologist.

CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR DECISION TO DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THIS WONDERFUL BREED. WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF LABRADOR RETRIEVERS!

# PART TWO

# DEVELOPMENTAL STAGES OF YOUR LAB

Like people, dogs are pregnant for three trimesters, each about 21 days long. The next phase after puppies giving birth, they can be a lot to handle, especially if you've never had a dog before. Knowing more about their development cycle is instrumental in raising a well-behaved, furry friend.

Lucky for you, this part of the book is going to break down the entire dog pregnancy stages day by day, and it guides you through the life stages of dogs, so you'll know what to expect:

  * Before the pregnancy

  * Stage of your Pregnancy

  * Giving Birth (Whelping)

  * Your puppy's Development 1-6 Month

  * Your puppy's Development 6 MONTH to Adult.

1

# BEFORE THE PREGNANCY

Breeding your Lab can be exciting for the entire family. Labs come in three colors: yellow, black, and chocolate. Your expectant litter may contain puppies in all varieties. The exception is when both the mother and father are yellow; in that case, the puppies will also be yellow. It's essential to be able to recognize these and know what to do, especially if this is your dog's first pregnancy.

Like with humans, we separate the dog gestation period into three trimesters, each lasting about 21 days.

There's a whole host of reasons you might have a pregnant lab – whether calculated breeding, occasional conception/adopting a dog who is already pregnant. In these cases, it's fundamental to be informed and up to date on what is happening and what to look forward to it, just as you would with any other health condition.

We'll start with the supposition that you're preparing to breed your dog. Here's what you should know about the stages of lab pregnancy.

1. PREPARING FOR THE PREGNANCY

If you are ready for the pregnancy, there's a bundle of things you should check in advance – As in humans!

Make sure your dog is the right age. You want to ensure it's older than 3 – to make sure it's fully mature, so do speak to your vet about it.

You also need to make sure that they're fully up to date on their vaccinations.

2. PREPARE YOUR DOG FOR MATING

  * ENCOURAGING GOOD HEALTH

  * Keep the female at a healthy weight.

  * Feed both dogs' healthy nutrition: Healthier dogs will better prepare for mating.

  * Talk to your vet about healthy food for your dog.

  * Exercise both dogs regularly.

  * Make sure the male is washed and clean. It needs to have clean genitals to put a stop to contagion and other problems for the time of breeding.

  * PAYING ATTENTION TO TIMING:

  * Female dogs have a natural reproductive cycle. Follow up this cycle each month can help you realize when you should allow your dogs to breed naturally

  * Count the days in the female's period.

  * Your dog female will be fertile on the Tenth days. You notice the blood in the reproductive cycle. Usually, your female will allow a male to mount her.

  * Breed your female on the correct cycle days. Females are more fertile on days 9, 11, and 13 of the cycles. It's essential males and females have a way to breed these days, as this will raise the probability of percentage of pregnancy.

  * Introduce male to female before the day of mating.

  * GETTING SUPPORT IN MATING DAY

  * Keep the dogs calm.

  * Help the dogs When you see it necessary.

  * Let the dogs have some privacy and do not separate them after mating starts. Allow the dogs to have mate naturally and do not disconnect them or try to interrupt them.

  * After the mating process, Care for both the male and female dogs to support conception.

  * After the female has mated, you may have to lock her up to a crate for half an hour. You want to stop urination, as this will support conception.

## HOW LONG IS A DOG'S PREGNANCY?

Pregnancy in dogs typically lasts 63 days (about nine weeks). The duration of a dog's pregnancy can fall anywhere from 58 to 68 days.
2

# STAGES OF PREGNANCY

# DAY BY DAY

THE FİRST WEEK

  * IN THE FIRST DAY

First day of mating. During one mating, the male can release about 500 million sperms. These sperms are not directly able to fertilize the egg must Pass through the phase of ripening. The stages of maturation go on for about 6 - 10 hours. The sperms are touring to through the cervix into the fallopian tubes, which commonly reach after 15 - 45 minutes, then the rest of the sperm during to 3 hours. Females may be in the period absolutely before ovulation (release of eggs).

  * IN THE SECOND DAY

'The cleaned' sperms move around and research an egg for fertilization.

  * IN THE THIRD DAY

After 48 hours, it is feasible to do a second mating.

  * IN THE FORTH DAY

Now is the fertilizing of eggs. You do not have to be unusually careful with the female in the first third of the pregnancy. You do not have to alter the type or amount of feed. We can let her have so much motion, how much she wants. Despite that, in the summer, no plus action, because it can lead to overheating of the body and dehydration.

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

  * Possible morning sickness

  * Possible personality changes

HEALTH CARE OF THE FEMALE

  * Normal feeding

  * Check all medications with a vet before administering

  * No insecticides (i.e., flea treatments)

  * No live vaccines

THE SECOND WEEK

  * IN THE FİFTH TO THE ELEVENTH DAY

Fertilized eggs are falling in the fallopian tubes into the uterine horns.

  * IN THE TWELVETH DAY

Coming early embryos are taking their packaging off, and they are moving freely in the liquid of the uterus and are searching an appropriate place for nesting. (size about 0.6 mm)

  * IN THE THIRTEENTH DAY

The embryo is looking for a suitable place for nesting. The surrounding liquid is a food exporter for the fetus before nesting.

  * IN THE FOURTEENTH DAY

The fetus migrates in the uterus, and individual embryos diffused in uterine corners where later the nesting into the uterine wall starts.

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

Possible morning sickness (can also come in week 5)

HEALTH CARE OF THE FEMALE

Continue as with Week One

TO DO LIST

Nothing specials this week

## THE THIRD WEEK

  * IN THE FIFTEENTH DAY

During the next two weeks, the critical organs of the fetus will grow. Be careful of interventions into the body of a pregnant mother. Everything affects the fetus. Do not use any medications during pregnancy. The female is prone to any changes, so we do not change the daily routine, walking time, type of feeding, resting place. Any intervention must accurately mark the timetable. This day the evolution of the organs of the embryo can be damaged.

  * IN THE SIXTEENTH DAY

The nipples of the female become pink and enlarge. The overcoat on the female belly and around the tits may be thinner. (fetus size is about 1mm)

  * IN THE SEVENTEENTH DAY

fetuses are nesting, and the nervous system begins to develop first, then the head and body of fetuses.

  * IN THE EIGHTEENTH DAY

The placenta starts to grow. The development of the nervous system continues. The size of the fetus is about 2mm.

  * IN THE NINETEENTH DAY

The evolution of the internal organs of the fetus goes start.

  * Day 20

The development of the placenta continues. Around of the placenta occurs marginal bleeding. Blood pigment hemoglobin changed to green hematochlorin. It is discoloring Amniotic liquid during birth. From the twentieth day from mating can be illustrated whether the female is the pregnant (abdominal palpation or ultrasound examination). The size embryo is about 4mm.

  * Day 21

The placenta is created and the basis for the Evolution of the heart. Since now, we can be illustrated if the female is pregnant. On the ultrasound, we can see the fetus yet, but we can see their afterbirths full of liquid (amniotic fluid). The size of the fetus is about 5 mm.

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

Make sure week 3 is calm for the bitch.

TO DO LIST

Nothing specials this week

THE FOURTH WEEK

  * Day 22

The ideal period for ultrasound diagnosis of pregnancy starts. For females in this period can occur morning sickness and loss of appetite as a result of hormonal changes and tension in the womb. The female is apathetic and without mood. Sometimes vomiting may also occur. It helps dividing food to more small doses and give flavored food. At the female may appear a harmless vaginal discharge (clear or nature of egg white).

  * Day 23

They begin to develop eyes, ears, nose, jaw, and liver. Size of 10mm. The ideal period for ultrasound diagnosis of pregnancy.

  * Day 24

Due to the rapid development of all major organs, the actual fetal growth is slow. The ideal period for ultrasound diagnosis of pregnancy.

  * Day 25

The ideal period for ultrasound diagnosis of pregnancy. An ultrasound examination can see as the heartbeat of the fetuses. The embryos begin to develop teeth, spine, and limbs. The size is 14 mm.

  * Day 26

The ideal period for ultrasound diagnosis of pregnancy. An experienced person can also do palpation to diagnose pregnancy. Now is the best time because the embryos are the walnut-size, and it is easy to count them. It is suitable for the female to begin limiting strenuous movement. It opens the development of teeth, back, and limbs of the fetus.

  * Day 27

The ideal period for ultrasound diagnosis of pregnancy.

  * Day 28

The ideal period for ultrasound diagnosis of pregnancy. There is the ossification of the jaw and the skull of the fetus. The shape of the fetus changes initially from ovoid shape to spherical. Size is about 17 mm.

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

  * Possible clear vaginal discharge

  * Mammary development begins

HEALTH CARE OF THE FEMALE

  * After Day 26, palpitation may be possible to diagnose pregnancy

  * Limit strenuous activity (such as working, jumping, long runs)

  * Add extra high-quality protein to diet on alternate days (hardboiled egg or ¼ cup cottage cheese)

  * Add Omega 3+ oil or similar daily

TO DO LIST

Schedule ultrasound or palpitation with the vet if desired (day 28-30 is suitable for ultrasound)

## THE FIFTH WEEK

  * Day 29

The fetus is already very similar to a miniature dog. You should start to increase food ration for females. Don't overfeed; excessive weight gain should avoid.

  * Day 30

Complete ossification of the jaw and skull. The size of the embryo is about 2cm.

  * Day 31

The growth of sensory hairs on the chin, eyebrows, and nose.

  * Day 32

In mid-gestation embryo reaches approximately 20% of its size at birth.

  * Day 33

There is a growth of fingers, the ossification of the nose, ribs, and leg bones. Completion of the development of all major organs. Size of about 27 mm.

  * Day 34

Female stars to change behavior. It is quieter and more sensitive. Her abdomen and external genitalia begin to increase slightly. Approximately 35 days may be fetus absorbed, later leaving the fetus during birth as the black fetus.

  * Day 35

Completed the development of all major organs. Size of 35mm. Female starts to have an increased appetite. It is advisable to start feeding her food for pregnant females and increase the amount by 10%. The ration should be divided into 2 to 3 times a day.

CHANGES IN THE BITCH

  * Swelling becomes noticeable

  * Loss of "tuck-up."

  * the weight of the fetus increases dramatically – around 75%!

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

  * Slightly increase the amount of food and switch to puppy kibble. If you feed one meal a day, add extra flour. If you feed twice a day, slightly increase one of the meals.

  * Palpitation no longer possible due to fluids in the uterus

TO DO LIST

  * Nothing specials this week

  * Introduce the whelping box

## THE SIXTH WEEK

  * Day 36

Ends period of the slow growth of the body of the fetus. The fetus starts rapidly grow. It begins with developing a reproductive system, continues skeletal ossification, and scapula.

  * Day 37

It begins to stage the fastest growth of the fetus.

  * Day 38

The female is slowly gaining weight. The uterus starts to expand. We can observe the increase in volume in the area of the last ribs of the female. You can also detect slight enlargement of the mammary glands.

  * Day 39

The growth of the fetus is accelerated, skeletal ossification continues.

  * Day 40

In this period, fetuses have already established almost all the internal organs. On the head of the fetus begin to appear the first signs of hair. Eyes closed. The size of about 65 mm.

  * Day 41

The fetus is about 30% of its total size at birth. Ossification of the spine and fingers

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

  * You'll finally begin to notice your girl's tummy begin to swell, and her nipples will get noticeably darker. Mom might also start to become uncomfortable and want to rest more.

  * Nipples darken and enlarge

  * Abdomen continues to enlarge

HEALTH CARE OF THE FEMALE

  * Increase the amount of food in the extra meal

  * Bitch can start sleeping in the whelping box

TO DO LIST

  * Assemble whelping box

  * By this time, you should be reasonably sure that the bitch is pregnant.

  * Should begin sleeping in her whelping box

  * Add a medium meal to amount fed

  * Add extra high-quality protein to diet daily (hard-boiled egg or ¼ cup cottage cheese)

  * Notify your buyer list of when pups due

## THE SEVENTH WEEK

  * Day 42 - 43

Ossification of the spine and fingers. It continues the rapid growth of the fetus.

  * Day 44

The uterus of the female occupies two-thirds of the abdominal cavity. We can notice hair loss and thinning hair on the breast gland. It's effortless now to feel the puppies, counting them might be a bit more complicated. It recommends feeing 3 to 5 times a day in smaller doses and increases the total amount of 15-20%. In this period, we cannot let the female do steep and strenuous movements or jumping.

  * Day 45

Ossification of pelvis and fetuses grow coat.

  * Day 46

Ossification of pelvis and fetuses grow coat. Using an X-ray can be seen as the skeletons of fetuses, and it is possible accurately to count them (counted skull and spine).

  * Day 47

Ossification of pelvis and fetuses grow coat.

  * Day 48

The female stars to be visibly more massive. At this stage, females may lose their appetite. Fetuses push the internal organs of the female, most in the digestive tract.

  * Day 49

Fetuses reach 75% of the size at birth. It is already necessary to at this time to accustom females to a box in which she will give birth.

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

  * Abdomen hair will start shedding

  * The bitch will start to look pregnant at this point

HEALTH CARE OF THE FEMALE

Slightly increase both meals

TO DO LIST

  * Stop any rough play or jumping

  * Radiographs (X-rays) possible to determine the number and size of puppies

## THE EIGHTH WEEK

  * Day 50

Organs are already well developed. The belly crowd with puppies and we can see their sporadic movement (swarming). Females in this period may (but may not) lose her appetite. We feed more often and small doses. The total daily dose should gradually increase by 25-50%.

  * Day 51

Female starts to relax and look for a suitable place to give birth.

  * Day 52

For some more milk, females can occur spontaneous release of fluid from the teats. Female often rests.

  * Day 53

The female is resting and preparing for birth.

  * Day 54

The female is resting and preparing for birth. As the last internal organ develops lungs.

  * Day 55

The body of the fetus cover with a coat, but the coating on the feet are even less visible. Claws already develope. It starts pigmentation of the skin. The size of the fetus is 145 mm. The female is resting and preparing for birth.

  * Day 56

Starts calcification of teeth. The female is resting and preparing for birth.

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

  * Milk may squeeze from nipples

  * The bitch will be huge.

HEALTH CARE OF THE FEMALE

  * Add moderate lunch

TO DO LIST

Gather whelping kit Prepare phone list for help/support. It should include your vet's phone number, the emergency clinic's phone number, and anyone else you might need to contact before, during, or after whelping

MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS FULL OF FUEL AND READY FOR A POSSIBLE EMERGENCY TRIP TO THE VET'S OFFICE.

## THE NINTH WEEK

This week an x-ray will even pick up the puppies' teeth. They are ready to come out into the world, and the nine-week pregnant girl will be nesting in preparation for the impending birth.

  * Day 57

Movements of fetuses are more pronounced. Significantly swollen mammary glands. The female is resting and preparing for birth.

  * Day 58

The fetus has developed lungs. From that day, the fetus is viable. Female is resting and preparing for birth.

  * Day 59

The belly of the female becomes loose, uterus decreases, and the body of the female is preparing for childbirth. It is time to be ready and to have everything at hand. The female may start to give birth any day now. You need to start measuring and recording body temperature in the rectum of the female each morning and evening.

  * Day 60 - 65

The expected date for birth. The birth can occur between the 59th to 67th day. Shortly before birth (12-24h) female refuses to eat regularly, and there is a decrease in body temperature from 38-39 °C to 36.5-37.5 °C. (1-2 °C) Previous hormonal changes lead to the induce of uterine contractions, which subsequently causes abdominal contractions (decreases) and starts the exclusion of the fetus gradually. The progress of the delivery can be for each female very different.

MODIFICATION IN THE FEMALE

  * Nesting behavior may see.

  * Bitch may become distressed (panting, pacing, acting uncomfortable)

  * When the temperature drops significantly, puppies should be born within 24 hours

  * Appetite may disappear as whelping approaches

HEALTH CARE OF THE FEMALE

  * Start taking temperature three times a day

TO DO LIST

  * Make sure your phone's battery is loaded (if you have cordless phone or mobile)

  * Keep detailed records on temperature and behavior of bitch

  * Double-check that whelping supplies are ready.

3

# GIVING BIRTH

# (WHELPING)

## ACCUSTOM YOUR BITCH TO THE WHELPING BOX:

It is a good idea to build a whelping box well in advance, so the bitch has time to become accustomed to it. Unless you have already accustomed her to a whelping box, she may choose your closet or another inappropriate place for a delivery room.

An ideal whelping environment is warm, dry, quiet, draft-free, and away from all other dogs when possible.

A right whelping box is roomy and has low sides so you can easily reach in. It should also have a small shelf or roll bars running halfway up along the sides, so the pups have something to crawl under to avoid getting rolled on by the bitch.

Newspapers typically replace with non-skid bathmats, outdoor carpeting, or something else that provides the better footing for the puppies.

SUGGESTED WHELPING SUPPLIES:

## GOING INTO LABOR

There are a few behaviors that indicate that birth is imminent. It can last for six to twelve hours, or even longer, while the cervix dilates and prepares for delivery.

Human moms even show some of the same signs as being restless and losing their appetite. Even nesting behavior – an urge to clean and tidy up the house.

WATCH FOR THE FOLLOWING SIGNS:

  * Restless and pacing, followed by falling asleep digging

  * Panting and shaking/shivering

  * Returning often to the place where she plans to give birth

  * Licking herself

  * Becoming quiet and introverted

  * Going off her food

  * Possible vomiting.

PUPPIES ARE BORN

Most bitches give birth easily without the need for human help. Each puppy emerges in its placental membrane, or sac, which must remove before the puppy can breathe. The mother usually takes care of this by tearing off (and sometimes eating) the membrane and then severs the umbilical cord. After delivery, she will lick each puppy to stimulate its breathing.

You should keep track of how many placentas are delivered and ensure that the number matches the number of puppies because a retained placenta may cause problems.

You must take over if the bitch neglects to remove a sac or sever an umbilical cord. A puppy can remain inside the pouch for only a few minutes before the oxygen supply deplete. The sac membrane should be torn near the puppy's head and peeled backward until the puppy can gently remove. Then you should remove mucus or fluids from the puppy's mouth and nose and gently rub the puppy with a towel to stimulate circulation. The umbilical cord can be tied with unwaxed dental floss and cut on the far side of the tie/knot about two inches from the abdomen. The cut end should be painted with iodine to prevent infection.

At the time of birth, the bitch will be busy cleaning her puppies, warming them, and allowing them to nurture. The puppies need to nurse soon after emerging from the womb. Suckling lets them ingest colostrum, a milk-like substance containing maternal antibodies that produce in the mammary glands just after birth. Colostrum helps the newborn puppies fight infection in their early days while their immune systems mature.

It is advisable to identify and weigh puppies during the first two weeks.

KEEP YOUR PUPPIES WARM, FED AND CLEAN

  * TEMPERATURE

A newborn puppy cannot control its body temperature and must be kept in a warm environment. Chilling will stress the puppy and predispose it to infectious disease; overheating can kill it. The environmental temperature can control with a well-insulated electric heating pad or a heat lamp. But make sure the puppies have a more relaxed place to crawl to if they become too warm. The immediate environmental temperature should keep between 85 and 90 degrees for the first five days of life. From the seventh to the tenth day, the temperature can be gradually

reduced to 80 degrees; by the end of the fourth week, it can be brought down to 75 degrees.

  * NURSING

The first milk produced by the bitch after whelping is called colostrum. Every puppy needs to ingest colostrum as early as possible after birth and certainly during the first 24 hours of life. Colostrum contains several substances that are beneficial to the puppy, including immunoglobulins that protect newborns from the infectious diseases to which the mother is immune.

For your nursing bitches, one thing to keep a lookout for is canine mastitis. It is not that common, but you should be aware of it. Canine mastitis is a breast infection in bitches, usually occurring a few weeks after whelping. Typically, the breasts of a lactating bitch are warm and enlarged. If the breasts seem to be red, dark, hot, or painful when touched, then you should contact your vet immediately. Advanced canine mastitis presents itself as a hard, warm, and almost black breast segment, which is extremely painful for the bitch when touched. Canine mastitis can be caused by weaning puppies too early, severe scratches from puppies' claws, or some other infection. A bitch with canine mastitis may be running a fever, be listless, and may not eat. She also may not allow her puppies to nurse, and if she does, she will be "snappy" when they touch the affected area.

  * CARING FOR YOUR BITCH AFTER WHELPING

Some bitches eat very little for the first day or two after whelping. Then their appetite and need for all nutrients rise sharply and peaks in about three weeks. During this entire period, adequate calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D must feed to avoid the onset of eclampsia. Optimal amounts of these nutrients are already present in a high-quality diet, so further supplementation is unnecessary. Eclampsia causes nervousness, whimpering, unsteady gait, and spasms. Although very serious, it readily cures by prompt veterinary treatment.

After whelping, the bitch ideally should be about the same weight as when she bred, but not more than 5 to 10 percent heavier. This food should divide into three or four meals. The composition of the diet should be the same as it was during the last third of her pregnancy; only the amount per day should change. You can feed them with puppy food too, check our list here of the best ones on the market.

Allow the mother and puppies to rest, but make sure you check on them regularly. She should be alert, quickly resume eating (probably more than usual, especially with a large litter!), and nurse the puppies. Make sure to watch out for potential health issues – the vet will be able to give you a detailed rundown.

Some key things to watch out for are strange colored milk, the teats becoming plugged up, or infection. It's especially important to watch out for 'milk fever' (eclampsia) as this can be very extreme, but it is easy to reverse if caught early. Signs of this include panting, muscle tremors, high temperature, dilated pupils, and whining.

  * CARE FOR ORPHANED PUPPIES

Newborn puppies must be hand-fed if their mother is either unable or unwilling to nurse them. For feeding puppies, a commercial puppy formula recommends; carefully follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Remember that puppies overgrow, so make sure you weigh them every day before you calculate how much to feed them.

You may need to start with slightly less formula at each feeding and gradually increase the amount as the puppy responds favorably to hand food. Steady weight gain and well-formed feces are the best evidence of satisfactory progress. If diarrhea develops, immediately reduce the puppy's intake to half the amount previously fed, then gradually increase it again to the recommended level. Diarrhea in newborns can be very dangerous, so consult a veterinarian for advice.

Never prepare more formula than is required for anyone day because milk is a medium for bacterial growth. Always maintain sanitary conditions. Before feeding, warm the recipe to about 100 degrees or near body temperature. Using a bottle and nipple, hold the bottle at an angle to prevent air bubbles. The hole in the nipple can be enlarged slightly with a hot needle to let the milk ooze out slowly when the bottle is inverted. The puppy should suck vigorously but should not nurse too rapidly. Consult a veterinarian if the puppies are not nursing well. You may need to resort to tube feeding, which is best taught by a health professional.

Newborn puppies must stimulate to defecate and urinate after each feeding. Ordinarily, the mother's licking provides this stimulation, but orphaned puppies will need human intervention. Gently massage the puppy's anal region with a cotton ball that has dipped in warm water.

Gentle body massage is also beneficial for any hand-reared puppy. Massage stimulates the circulation and thoroughly awakens the puppy. Stroke the puppy's sides and back with a soft cloth. The best time for a massage seems to be when the puppies are waking up, and you're waiting for the formula to get warm.

4

#  YOUR PUPPY'S DEVELOPMENT

# 1-6 MONTH

Nothing is more beautiful than a puppy. Puppies send our human emotions into overdrive. But what about their feelings?

Puppies go through emotional development alongside all their physical growth, and they learn what they like, what scares them, and what makes them feel safe in the world. They also learn how (and who) to love. By understanding your puppy's emotional development, you can prepare them for a long, happy life.

Understanding the puppy development stages will help you build the personality and character you want in your pup, which starts with training at each stage of development.

To have a wonderfully social dog that isn't fearful or aggressive, and you need to ensure his needs meet during each phase of development.

You'll see many behavioral changes during the life stages of your pup, some of which will no doubt test you, particularly when they reach adolescence!

## MONTH 2

NEONATAL PERIOD (BIRTH-13 DAYS)

  * Your puppy's first stage of emotional development starts with their mama. When their eyes still shut, their whole world is the safe, warm presence that feeds and bathes them. At this stage, your puppy primarily experiences physical feelings (hunger, warmth, cold, etc.).

  * A newborn's eyes and ears closed. Her eyes might blink as a reflex, but she can't see yet because her retina not fully develop.

  * They don't have teeth.

  * By two days old, puppies can move on her Mom and her littermates and compete for a place to nurse.

  * The puppies' suckling is healthy and well developed.

  * Newborns need to have milk from mom or a commercial milk replacer about every two hours.

  * They will start learning some simple social skills, coordination, and the ranking process.

  * Expect puppies at this point to sleep almost invariably, and their mother will take care of everything, keeping them warm, feeding them, and keeping them clean.

  * Touch, Taste, Smell Working, but hearing and sight is not working,

  * Recognizes pain,

  * Sleeps and Eats most of the time;

  * It cannot regulate their body temperature.

  * Cannot eliminate on own--needs the mother to initiate urination and defecation

  * Crawl forward and vocalize to seek mother.

  * Ensure clothes, footwear and hands are sanitized and clean

  * Should be checked by a veterinarian at 1 to 2 days to rule out congenital disabilities.

TRANSİTİONAL PERİOD (13-20 DAYS):

  * Now is an excellent time to expose puppies to safe, novel objects, such as a baby bottle, a towel with your scent on it, even dog-safe toys, etc.

  * Continue handling and talking to the puppies.

  * Begin to react to sound.

  * Teeth erupt.

  * Eyes open, react to changes in light, but unable to see fully.

  * Crawl backward, as well as forwards, begins to stand, as well as a wagtail.

  * Eyes open can hear, reacts to sound and changes in light

  * Teeth begin erupting

AWARENESS (PERIOD 21-28 DAYS)

  * Because this time is full of sensory development, the environment should remain relatively stable so as not to overload the pups.

  * Pups can introduce to carpet, wood, tile, linoleum, etc., for short intervals.

  * At this puppy growth stage, they will start to open up their eyes and respond to sounds, light, and movement around them.

  * The puppies also start interacting with each other. They experience a dramatic increase in motor development as they begin to chew and explore their surroundings.

  * Around 19 to 21 days, a pup responds to light by moving her head away or blinking. Her hearing also continues to develop, and she'll startle to loud noises.

  * At this point, but still, don't need more than the mother's milk.

  * Can use all their senses entirely.

  * They Can walk.

  * Are learning at a rapid rate.

  * They Begin to play with littermates.

  * They Can eat by means other than sucking.

  * Their teeth will start to come in.

  * They'll even start to bark.

  * Puppies begin to understand that humans are different from dogs

  * First introduction to canine manners from a mother dog

  * Some play fighting may occur among littermates

  * Eats solid foods, but continues to nurse

  * Begins to eliminate on own

  * Becomes more stable on their four paws

  * A puppy in this developmental stage will just be starting to recognize their siblings and mother. They may even take a lick of their mother's food out of curiosity

  * They will still tend to crawl instead of walking. They do, however, have enough strength to stand up, but will stumble a lot.

  * At this period, a puppy develops various senses rapidly. They start to get fully alert and aware of their environment and may recognize you and other humans that are frequently around.

  * It is crucial that the puppy still stays with the mother at this point since they are learning 'how to be a dog,' how to act themselves and how to interact with others of their species.

  * Discuss vaccine regimen with the veterinarian

  * Fun visits to veterinarian starting as early as four weeks of age.

## MONTH 2

Welcome to the first two months of your Labrador Retriever puppy's life! Even before your Lab puppy is born, hundreds of outside factors influence her future health and happiness. In this chapter, we follow a litter's physical and mental development. You learn how the mother dog's health care, nutrition, and temperament affect her puppies:

(5+ 6WEEKS)

  * They will learn not to bite all the time and how to interact with their siblings.

  * Interactions with humans are especially important this week.

  * It is also the time they will start to understand discipline, thanks to their mother. She will begin to wean her puppies and teaching them manners, like acknowledging she is in charge.

  * The pups can now orient to sights and sounds around them. The optic nerves mature by 28 days so that the puppies can see more than just shadows.

  * Shapes begin to have meant. By 30 days, they start to recognize familiar sounds.

  * The ears are fully open at 35 days (5 weeks), and the pups no longer startle to noise as they did when their ears first opened. At 3½ to 4 weeks, their Milk teeth start to come in, and the pups can chew semisolid food.

  * Labs grow dramatically during this period, and their puppy coats get longer and thicker.

  * The puppies' central nervous systems continue to mature. Even those cute little wagging tails indicate neuromuscular development.

  * As the owner, you can start introducing food to your puppy when they are around four weeks old. Start small and begin to give them more food as the mother continues to wean them.

  * During this period, let the mother dog take care of discipline; you should not correct the dog for mouthing or housebreaking mistakes until later in life.

  * Dogs who are separated too soon may also be nervous and more likely to bark and bite.

  * Very curious at this stage

  * Plays with Littermates

  * Puppies take turns in a dominant role

  * Needs lots of new experiences

  * Puppies need some time away from littermates and mother to prevent separation anxiety

  * Need more human socialization

  * Need an excellent high-quality puppy food as puppies nurse less and less

  * You should also continue handling the puppy every day. However, be sure not to separate them from their siblings or mother for over ten minutes each day, since this can lead to issues with training and socialization.

  * Play-biting leads to discipline from her littermates as well as from her mother, but it teaches her to communicate without injuring.

  * The mother also disciplines her puppies if they bite her too hard while nursing, which speeds up the weaning process.

  * They learn species-specific behavior from dam and littermates such as facial expressions, body postures mouthing, chasing, barking, soliciting play, and status-seeking behaviors.

  * They begin showing appeasement gestures to the dam when disciplined.

  * They learn bite inhibition from playing with littermates.

  * They begin to understand social hierarchy through interaction with dam and littermates.

  * Can use all senses fully, regulate body temperature and walk

  * Puppy begins learning from good experiences (i.e., positive reinforcement)

  * Learns species-specific behaviors (biting, chasing, barking, etc.)

  * Learns from littermates & mother not to bite too hard

  * Learns how to play with other dogs

  * Begin short positive reinforcement training sessions.

  * Allow plenty of time for pups and mothers to be together.

  * Introduce to crate: keep an open crate in the whelping box to facilitate in crate-training later.

  * Provide aural stimuli through radio; continue handling and speaking to pups.

  * Introduce pups to short car rides, two at a time.

  * Provide a complex, stimulating environment – will help the puppy develop perceptual & learning abilities

  * Provide a clear distinction between sleep & play areas so the puppy can leave the living area to eliminate

  * One-on-one daily contact with humans

  * Concise periods (5-10 minutes) of isolation away from humans & littermates – ensure the experience is positive, can use this time to begin crate training

  * Provide exposure to a variety of noises and different floor surfaces

  * Begin handling exercises.

  * Discuss vaccine regimen with the veterinarian

  * Fun visits to veterinarian starting as early as four weeks of age.

(7 + 8 WEEKS)

They learn to hunt, pounce, chase, and get along peacefully with each other.

The pups also teach each other how rough they can play and how hard they're allowed to bite.

Bite inhibition is one of the most critical skills a puppy needs to learn, and she needs to learn it from her peers. The other puppies quickly forgive her, and they're soon back to romping together.

A puppy who is in a single-puppy litter or is removed from the litter too soon might never learn her dog manners. Her mother and her human family can help make up the difference, but they're no substitute for learning from her siblings.

About 70% of adult brain mass is present at this age.

Begin talking with your veterinarian about vaccinations and the benefits of spaying/neutering

MONTHS 3:

  * Should be completely weaned from mother at eight weeks of age

  * Rapid learning occurs

  * The most significant impact on future social behavior from experiences at this stage.

  * Ensure the puppy has bite inhibition.

  * Continue with fun visits to the veterinarian.

  * Ask veterinarian how to trim your puppy's nails, spay/neuter & about microchipping

MONTHS 4:

  * This month also is a challenge as your joyful toddler becomes more active.

  * Overenthusiastic about everything, she acts first and thinks later. She starts teething, and her entire world changes as she gnaws on anything that might comfort her sore mouth.

  * Physical Development You'll notice significant changes in your Lab puppy this month. She loses her roly-poly physique as her legs get longer in proportion to her body. She also begins teething, as mentioned earlier, and that means chewing.

  * Size and Weight, A 12-week-old puppy, weighs somewhere between 20 and 25 pounds—roughly double what her weight was at eight weeks. She'll gain another ten or more pounds this month.

  * Teething By 16 weeks, your puppy is losing her baby teeth, and her adult teeth are pushing through her gums. First, her incisors, the small front teeth on her upper and lower jaw, start to come in. Females usually begin teething earlier than males. As with human babies, the process is painful, but instead of fussing and crying like a baby,

  * she'll chew to relieve the pain. Hide your most precious possessions, shoes, handbags, and remote control. She doesn't target these items with evil intentions. They smell like you, and that comforts her. When you catch her chewing on your golf shoes, trade them for an approved chew toy.

  * Responds to "come."

  * Soft Hair

  * At this age, the puppies still cover in thin hair that, fortunately, sheds very little. They will need a very delicate shampoo that is pH balanced. It is the right age to introduce the puppy to bathing. Be sure to make the experience positive and fun. You can also use dog wipes that are hypoallergenic and alcohol-free for cleaning in between baths.

  * Teething

  * Their teeth start falling out between the ages of 12 weeks to 7 months. They'll first lose their incisors, then the premolars, and finally the canines.

  * At this stage of development, your pup will start chewing, and it's your job to find safe chew toys and treats that are suitable for his age. Puppy teeth are delicate, and an adult dog bone or toy may fracture them.

  * Keep in mind that their digestive system has not fully developed so that they will need easy-to-digest foods.

  * Better Bladder Control

  * It is an excellent time to start crate training.

  * You can expect a three-month-old puppy to be able to hold urine for two to four hours, depending on how much drank and its activity levels. Some puppies at this age can also keep it through the night.

  * IMMUNIZATIONS

  * The first vaccine usually gives at six to eight weeks, but your puppy will need another one at 12 weeks. This second vaccination contains:

  * Distemper, Adenovirus, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus, and Lepto. Lepto generally gives when a pup is 12 weeks or older and never. The rabies vaccine also gives after 12 weeks.

  * Refusing food or water: A puppy can get dehydrated quickly, so offer your Lab plenty of water. If she doesn't want to drink, submit her ice cubes. They'll provide the moisture she needs but not make her queasy. Gnawing on the ice cubes also gives her something to think about besides how she feels.

  * Continue the lessons you started last month by exposing her to more people, sounds, smells, and textures. Socializing to Calm Adult Dogs If you have another dog in your household, you've seen her interact with your puppy. But your Lab needs to meet other dogs, too, especially dogs of different breeds and sizes, while she's young. One-on-one encounters are safer. Choose your puppy's companions carefully. The only adult dogs your puppy should meet now are well-socialized and tolerant dogs of both sexes. A puppy needs older dogs to teach her lessons you and other puppies can't explain.

  * Puppies learn by playing, and her over-the-top behavior this month includes plenty of chasing, pouncing, biting, and mounting. Now your Lab is continuously grabbing and chewing everything she sees.

  * Labs are an oral breed. They genetically wire to use their mouths, a behavior that goes back to what they bred to do: carry a bird back to the hunter. A good hunting dog has a soft mouth.

MONTHS 5:

During this month, your Lab pup's body overgrows. He'll reach approximately 60 percent of his adult height this month and about half of his mature weight. He'll look out of proportion and clumsy because he's growing from the outside. His paws, nose, ears, and tail will be too big, almost adult size. Eventually, his torso will start to lengthen, and his legs will gradually catch up. A male who will finally weigh 65 to 80 pounds weighs about 32 to 36 pounds at four months. A 24-inch-tall adult male is about 14 inches at the shoulders during month 5. A female who will weigh 55 to 70 pounds at adulthood weighs roughly 26 to 35 pounds and is about 11 or 12 inches tall at the shoulders. These are estimates based on a dog who will fall within the breed standard when mature. Your dog may be giant; most Labs aren't smaller than the rule. His brain is developing, too, and by five months old, he'll have a maturity level like what you'd expect in a 10-year-old child. He's still very much a puppy but approaching puberty. He'll be very active and always a step ahead of you this month, much to his delight.

Teething Continues The adult molars along the sides of his mouth start to come in this month, and his canine teeth—his two upper and two lower fangs in the front—follow. His teeth won't finish emerging to their maximum height until he's 10 to 12 months old. That means he'll continue to chew voraciously during the next few months to ease his teething pain.

According to the AKC Labrador breed standard, a Lab might have a small white spot, no bigger than a quarter, on the chest.

Health he has completed his vaccines so you can take him out in public to continue and expand his socialization.

Frequent brushing speeds up the shedding process, and the sooner the old coat comes out, the sooner the new skin grows.

A Lab's hair is short and straight. It weaves into the carpet fibers, blankets, and woven furniture fabrics. It's hard to remove, even with a vacuum cleaner. Brush your Lab regularly to cut down on your household cleaning chores. Brushing Your Lab Frequent brushing distributes the natural oils in your Lab's coat and keeps it healthy and shiny (not as apparent in a yellow Lab).

Brushing also removes a lot of dirt that gets down in the undercoat.

When your Lab reaches four months, he has had his rabies vaccine, and most communities require that he be licensed. An ID tag includes your personal contact information, and a license has the animal control jurisdiction's info.

NUTRITION

A walk is a perfect time for your puppy to practice sit, down, walking politely, and paying attention to you. Don't let him pull ahead, or he'll learn to drag you all his life.

There are a few places you shouldn't take him yet. Street fairs and festivals have hundreds of people jammed together, loud music, food smells, and traffic. Remember, his eye level is around your knees, so all these strange things coming at him from above his head can be terrifying.

SOCIAL SKILLS

He requires light brushing year-round and regular grooming sessions during the shedding season. His ears also need proper attention so you can catch problems before they become chronic. A Labrador's Coat Labs are born with a short, thick double coat. The harsh outer skin has natural oils that repel dirt and water—perfect for a hunting retriever and a bonus for the pet owner. (However, his skin should never feel oily or greasy.) The soft undercoat protects your puppy from extreme cold and heat. Labs shed lightly year-round and slowly twice a year—spring and fall. (Females also dropped slowly about 10 to 12 weeks after their heat cycle, about the same time they would be

BEHAVIOR

Cleaning His Ears Labs are notorious for getting ear infections. Your puppy's ears lie flat against his head, limiting airflow and trapping moisture and debris inside. Labs are also prone to allergies, which cause redness and inflammation in the ear area. Wipeout his ears every week so he is used to the procedure and will be more tolerant if he needs treatment. And after he swims, hunts, or runs outdoors in tall grass, check his ears for dirt, grass seeds, ticks, and moisture and dry and wipe out his ears thoroughly.

Your Lab is still teething, and he's undoubtedly still chewing this month. Continue to provide him with sturdy chew toys.

Take the time to get your pup licensed.

If your Lab loses his collar, a microchip provides lifetime identification he can't lose. The chip, the size of a piece of rice, is encased in biocompatible glass to prevent infection and is injected between your pup's shoulder blades. The chip operates on a radio frequency, is not a tracking device, and doesn't require a power source to be activated.

TRAINING

Your priorities right now are exercise, teaching, and plenty of chew toys. Your Lab is ready for a license, microchip, and ID tags now, too. And of course, your active puppy will give your entire family hours of laughs and fun.

Prepare yourself with consistent puppy management techniques and a sense of humor so you'll get through this fun and challenging period with your sanity intact.

His mind is equally busy absorbing everything it can. He'll have endless energy and very little self-control. He's easily distracted and will use any excuse to ignore you. During this period of creative obedience, he'll tease you by coming close and taking off or grabbing toys and playing keep-away.

Be sure your Lab puppy gets plenty of exercises, training, and mental stimulation this month.

Break his lessons into small steps so you can keep his attention and better his chances for success. Train thoroughly and practice a lot this month. Labs aren't an overly emotional or sensitive breed so that you can be patient but firm. Keep training fun, or he'll lose interest. A few 1-minute training sessions throughout the day have a more significant impact on him than one 10-minute session.

Praise him, tell him he's a beautiful dog, and take him for practice.

You and Your Puppy You'll be having a lot of fun with your puppy this month, but he also needs some attention and guidance to keep your friendship on the right track.

Now that your puppy is going out in public, he needs to wear identification if he gets lost.
5

#  YOUR PUPPY'S DEVELOPMENT

# 6 MONTHS TO ADULT

MONTHS 6

During months 5 and 6, your Lab puppy finishes her growth spurt, and her body starts to balance out.

She has endless energy but not much common sense, so you'll spend time this month reviewing her training.

Although your Lab is looking more like a dog, she's still very much a puppy at heart, as you'll see in her behaviors this month. You'll also notice that the amount of sleep she needs is changing as she matures. It is looking Less Like a Puppy overgrows during the first six months. At this point, she can look mature and well balanced, or she can still be all legs and tail. She has reached about 75 percent of her adult height but only about 60 percent of her adult weight. At 51⁄2 months, a male puppy who will be within the standard at adulthood—221⁄2 to 241⁄2 inches tall at the shoulder—will be 17 to 19 inches and 39 to 48 pounds. A female who will mature to 211⁄2 to 231⁄2 inches will now be 16 to 18 inches tall and 33 to 42 pounds. It is just an estimate, and some puppies will be taller but may not weigh much more yet. Her adult teeth are in and starting to set permanently in her jaws, so the chewing continues.

Yawning doesn't necessarily mean your Lab is tired; it's also a stress response. Your dog has an internal clock, and a Lab never sleeps through breakfast. You can be sure she'll wake you up at precisely the same time every morning. It quickly becomes a habit when you respond positively by getting up and feeding her.

Reckless and uncoordinated, and blasting into adventure with no thought to her safety, your Lab puppy is her own worst enemy.

She's also getting taller, and she may be able to reach objects on high shelves now that were previously out of her reach.

Fetching; toys remain important through adulthood

Can respond to "heel," "down," "sit," "fetch," "stay."

Speed eating and food guarding cause ongoing health and behavior issues if not prevented, so it's essential you learn to address those.

Here are some suggestions to slow down your speed eater: Don't make her compete for her food. If other dogs are in the house, feed everyone in separate rooms, so they don't feel their food threaten. Add water to her food, and let it soak for a few minutes. The menu expands in the bowl and not in her stomach, so she'll feel full faster. Don't use a container. Instead, toss her food on the floor and let her scavenge and eat one kibble at a time.

Be sure to do this on a clean, hard surface like a concrete patio or kitchen floor, because a typical Lab will eat gravel, dirt, seeds, and anything else in her path. Put a large rock in her dish before adding her food. She must eat around it, which slows her down. Be sure to use a foundation that's too big for her to put in her mouth. Break her meal into small portions, giving her just ¼ cup at a time. Put her lunch in a food-dispensing puzzle, so she has to figure out how it works to get her kibble out. It slows her down and entertains her.

Gas and diarrhea are usually temporary problems, sometimes caused by a sudden diet change

A well-socialized Labrador Retriever is friendly, confident, and well behaved everywhere she goes. It takes ongoing training.

Scientists theorize that because a dog's brain is like a human's in some structural respects, dogs do dream. Stanley Coren, Ph.D., FRSC, noted that a dog enters the dream phase about 20 minutes after falling asleep, and evidence has shown that she dreams about daily activities. The dog's breathing becomes shallow and irregular, and her eyes move behind her eyelids, just like the dream phase in human sleep.

A young Lab needs lots of physical and mental exercise.

Keep your training lessons exciting and fun by teaching her new skills and polishing old ones. With practice, she should be able to do a 1-minute sit-stay and a 1- or 2-minute down-stay by the end of this month.

MONTHS 7

While the baby may still be emotionally immature, during this period, the boy pups begin to leg-lift and mark with urine. The testosterone level in male puppies increases to 5-7 times higher than in an adult dog by age ten months, and then gradually falls to an average adult level by about 18 months of age. It helps signal the senior male dogs that the youngster must be put in his place so you may notice more adult-pup disputes during this period. Girl pups may go into heat (estrus) as early as five to six months, and boys begin to be interested in sex during this period. Most of your pup's growth in height finishes by this period, but he may continue to fill out and gain muscle mass and body weight. The puppy coat starts to be replaced by the adult coat.

Your Labrador Retriever puppy has the emotional maturity of a 12-year-old child, but his physical maturity is dawning. He'll be reckless and uninhibited while he's also insecure and clingy. Most of all, he'll be a whole lot of fun. Physical Development Although your puppy might not be fully sexually mature this month, and the related hormones are developing.

Puppies at this age seem to explode with high energy and will do well with structured play and exercise.

MONTHS 8

Enjoy her youthful enthusiasm and energy now, though. She loves to do things and will thrive on the attention you give her. Hormones play a significant role in Lab's adolescent behavior. It is the time when your dog's sexual maturity is way ahead of her mental and emotional maturity.

It is a critical time for your dog's development, and she needs to continue her socialization. Preventing Desocialization Socialization was an easily acquired skill when your Lab was a puppy, and most Labs are naturally friendly throughout their lives. But during adolescence, they undergo so many hormonal, physical, and emotional changes, and sometimes it's just too much trouble to take them out much in public.

MONTHS 9

You'll see subtle differences in your Labrador's physical appearance between 8 and 9 months. His growth has slowed dramatically, even though he is not yet his full adult height.

His bones are developing and hardening.

His teeth have all broken through the gums.

His body will start to look more in proportion. His rib cage fills out and broadens. His head becomes more substantial as it grows in width and breadth. His neck thickens, and the coat around his neck gets heavier.

There are coat differences between males and females. These aren't as obvious as on a long-coated dog, but they're still there. The ruff over the shoulders and on the neck isn't quite as thick in females. Also, females have a feminine head when compared to a male, as well as overall lighter bone structure.

Occasional Lack of Energy Glucose is the form of sugar found within the bloodstream. It's formed from carbohydrates during the digestion of foods and then use as energy. Puppies digest their food faster than adults, and this sometimes prevents the absorption of all the nutrients in their diet — a puppy who over-exercises use up the nutrients in his body more quickly. The combination of the two can cause low blood sugar (hypoglycemia), which makes him tired.

Most bones start as cartilage, a flexible connective tissue that gradually hardens and is replaced by bone. The longest bones in your puppy's body are its limbs. These long bones must grow longer for your puppy to get taller. They must also grow wider to support adult weight physically.

Scientists estimate that :(A dog's scenting ability is millions of times more advanced than that of his human companions, and up to one-third of his brain is devoted to scenting and analyzing what he smells). And that's something Labs have at birth, so your puppy can already feel thousands of things you can't. The canine nose divide into two cavities with a vertical wall of tissue, called the nasal septum, dividing them. The nasal cavity contains a maze of bony structures that, along with the sinuses and nasal septum, communicates with the olfactory nerve, which sends scent information to the brain. Often a dog will "lick" the air with his tongue and bring the scent to his nose to absorb it. When a smell reaches the brain, it goes to areas that process memory, pleasure, and emotions, making associations between them. As your Lab puppy encounters new smells, he builds up a memory bank of scents and what they mean to him. Your puppy learns that some smells mean good food, some suggest a thing tastes terrible, and others signify a memorable experience. But with the ability to process thousands or even millions of scents, by the time he's an adult, he's a virtual encyclopedia of perfumes!

If you continue to work to establish a good relationship with your Labrador, your Lab will trust you and behave appropriately.

MONTHS 10 -11

Your Labrador is ready to start practicing canine sports like hunting, agility, and obedience. Labs are incredibly smart and willing to do almost anything you could ask of them, so the choices are endless. He'll relish having a job to do, exercising his mind and body while building his skills.

Your Lab puppy may reach his full height this month, but his bones are still growing, so they aren't stable and fully developed yet. Continue to limit his running on hard surfaces and avoid jumping for a few more months. His teeth are almost entirely erupted and not as painful as they have been.

They will continue to develop strength until he's three years old, and he'll keep chewing as well.

Your puppy will start looking more coordinated this month, as his proportions even out, and he gets comfortable using his adult height and body. He'll dive into activities with great enthusiasm. He'll be hard to hide.

Social Skills

Your Lab puppy is a member of the family, too, and he'd love to tag along when your family goes on vacation. With a little preparation and planning, your best friend can also get away from the hustle and bustle of every day. While on vacation, no one has to go to work or school or other activities, and you all have more time to relax with each other and with your puppy. Most buses and trains won't accept dogs, so to travel with your pup, you must go by car or airline.

Behavior Even a well-adjusted, happy-go-lucky Lab will sometimes be anxious or afraid. He may react to new situations and people or something that has frightened him in the past, possibly during one of the fear imprints periods in his youth. The condition may be temporary and easy to deal with, or it could have catastrophic results. Respect your puppy's stress or fear. Protect him from real danger and acclimate him to safe situations where he's reacting poorly.

So, continue to use the socialization methods you've practiced in previous months.

In rare situations, medical help or behavior counseling might be necessary to cure symptoms of an emotional nature.

MONTHS 12

Approaching adult height and weight and your Lab will reach emotional maturity.

At this point, your pup has the emotional capacity of a two to three-year-old human child. That means they're capable of feeling joy, fear, anger, and love.

Of course, just because your dog has completed their emotional development doesn't mean you should stop nurturing their feelings!

As humans, we're pretty good at tending to our dogs' physical needs. But their emotional needs are just as urgent. By providing consistent attention, socialization, and positive associations, you can keep your dog emotionally healthy for years to come.

Most male puppies will begin to lift their leg to urinate by 12 months and, if they haven't neuter, will experience a surge in hormones. This spike may cause some males to go through a temporary mounting period.

Your puppy should feel comfortable being groomed regularly at this age, with a routine in place for brushing their teeth and clipping their nails in addition to bathing and grooming their coats.

Separation anxiety may develop during this period and become a source of stress for your dog. Help it cope with your comings and goings by not making a scene when you depart for the day.

If you haven't done so already, this is the time to spay or neuter your pup. Spaying significantly reduces the chance of mammary cancer and eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer, while neutering will decrease the likelihood of prostate disease and eliminates testicular cancer in your dog. Spaying and neutering can also help to lessen the development of specific behavioral issues in your puppy as he or she continues to grow.

By this point, your puppy should have all their vaccinations and will only need boosters one year after the final round of puppyhood vaccines complete.

PHYSICAL CHANGES

By now, your puppy should have lost all her baby teeth and grown a full set of adult teeth. Her last teeth to fall out will be her upper canines.

A puppy that has not neuter will reach sexual maturity around this time and begin exhibiting sexual behaviors, such as mounting in male dogs. It is normal behavior but can be minimized by spaying or neutering your dog before they reach maturity.

Patience is critical during this last stage of your puppy's development, and so is practice, practice, practice!

Soon your furry friend won't be a puppy anymore—but she will always be your baby.

Signs of Puberty in Canines

Here are the typical signs to watch out for to tell you that your puppy has hit puberty:

MALES

  * Descent of the testicles

  * Scent Marking

  * Raising his leg to mark (pee)

  * Becomes less friendly

  * More interested in roaming and less interested in obeying

  * May start lifting his leg indoors

  * Can become aggressive towards other male dogs

FEMALES

  * Usually starts with the first heat cycle

  * Exhibits erratic behavior

  * Moody

  * Lethargic

  * Shows aggression

You may, or may not, see some or all the above signs. Besides, some downright annoying behaviors are also characteristic of the adolescent dog. These are: It Starts inappropriate chewing (furniture, shoes, etc.).

Running around like a maniac has exuberant energy.

Starts sexual behavior if not spayed/neutered, humping, etc.

Starts claiming bed or couch areas and growling when you try to move him/her. It starts to pee/poop indoors. It displays aggressive behavior.

OLD AGE

When dogs start to age, their performance levels decline slightly due to a decline in their oxygen-carrying capacity, for example. However, at this stage, it is essential to monitor the amount of exercise, as well as the amount of food that the dog gets.

There are physiological changes that are related to aging, such as a mild decrease in activity levels. It should be taken into consideration when planning the amount of food to be given to the dog. Also, some individuals can have special needs related to specific illnesses/breeds, the significance of which will highlight as the dog becomes older.

Sometimes, increasing the number of feeding times per day can have a positive effect on intestinal functionality. In this case, the amount of food given in one serving does not make the dog's stomach feel too full. Some seniors need regular feeding intervals to be happy. On the other hand, others prefer exciting outings, and the regularity of feeding intervals is not as essential.

At times, the condition of joints needs special attention in aging dogs. Joint functionality can improve with suitable nutritional supplements, fatty acids, and supportive therapy. Mild exercise and good muscular condition help dogs even with joint problems remain mobile for a long time.

As the dog ages, it is often a great idea to slightly increase the amount of fiber in their food and start feeding slightly lighter options. At the same time, it must ensure that the dog has a enough protein intake. Feeding levels should keep even so that there would be no weight fluctuations, which are harmful to the dog's health.

As the dog ages, they tend to get prone to tartar build-ups. Chewing on dry food pellets is an excellent tool for slowing this process down. It also recommends giving the dog other bones or treats to chew, which would help slow down the build-up of tartar.

As he gets older, they may not need as much food as they did when they were younger. Ask your vet whether you should switch to food made for senior dogs and how much to feed him.

Checkups. You may need to begin taking your older dog to the vet for checkups every six months. That's because later in life, dogs are more likely to develop arthritis and other diseases. Routine blood tests can help detect problems early, such as kidney disease. Early diagnosis and therapy can help prolong his life.

Your dog may develop bad breath and dental problems as he gets older. Talk to your vet about how to care for your dog's teeth.

Temperature. Older dogs still need exercise. But they often can't handle extreme temperatures as well. So, protect your senior dog from overheating.

# PART THREE

# HEALTH RISKS

# FOR YOUR LAB

This part of the book is a comprehensive guide to keeping your Labrador fit, healthy, and as free from illness as possible so that you can live a long and happy life together.

As a responsible owner, the welfare and health of your Labrador Retriever are of utmost importance. After all, the happiest dogs are always fit and healthy dogs. This part contains five-chapter which distribute as follows:

  * First-Aid Kit for your Lab

  * CRP for your Lab

  * Common your Lab Emergencies

  * Basic Healthcare

  * Ear, Eye and Nail infections

1

# FIRST-AID KIT FOR YOUR LAB

When you're not feeling good health, you know it, and you request medical attention. But your Lab can't tell you about how they think. That's why it's so hard to know when something is incorrect.

In addition to communication problems, dogs are often covering their up diseases and injury. They know that slower, weaker, less healthy prey will discover themselves at the mercifulness of stronger predators. So, they instinctively do their best to covering their up symptoms and showing themselves more robust and healthier.

Your Lab's health can change a lot in just a few months. That's why it needs routine preventive care. Your lab should examine at least once a year. As an adult dog's age, these annual veterinary visits become even more critical. Hence, seniors should review every six months.

General physical checkups can discover problems before they become serious. As with dog owners, regular blood and urine tests can identify both risk factors and early forms of disease that are not detectable through a physical exam or extensive history. Your veterinarian is an expert on animal behavior.

A physical checkup is not just a chance for your Lab to see how cute your dog is; a thorough exam can pick up on a variety of illnesses and prevent potential catastrophic diseases. When these problems resolved early, your dog will live a much healthier and longer life.

IF YOUR DOG IS FEELING IN PAIN, HOW CAN YOU KNOW?

Dogs feel pain for many of the same purposes as humans: infections, arthritis, disease, dental problems, and cancer, Add to discomfort after surgical operations. There are specific changes and signs in behavior that can refer to having pain. As a dog owner, you are in the best position to see those changes. Whenever your dog's anxiety diagnosed and treated, the sooner he or she can heal and resume a healthy, happy life.

Here are just some of the behaviors or changes in your dog, which refers to pain. If you think that your dog is uncomfortable, please report your veterinarian instantly:

Previous acts or alterations that may appear that the dog is in pain. If you suspect your dog is inconvenient, please tell your veterinarian immediately. Your veterinarian is in the best person to put a diagnostic plan and treatment so your dog can remain as comfortable as possible.

## HOW TO MAKE A FİRST-AİD KİT FOR YOUR LAB

A first aid kit is essential any time you are away from the comfort of your home, vehicle, or immediate help. Like you have a first aid kit for the humans in your home, it's essential to prepare with a canine first aid kit.

It's better to put all your dog first-aid equipment in a bag or container. That way, it can make a journey with you and your dog when you're taking road trips, camping, or hiking — no matter where you go, essential that your dog might need treatment.

Here are a few essential items you should always save in your dog's first-aid kit:

2

# CRP FOR YOUR LAB

Getting medical help in the fastest time for someone who is having a medical crisis can rescue their life. Just like a medical emergency, follow the same DRSABC rules of handling an animal medical emergency.

D - Danger - make sure it is safe to approach your lab. Use a makeshift muzzle for larger dogs if required.

R - Response - determine if your lab is conscious - explore any signs of motion.

S - Send for support \- ask another individual to call us while you assist your lab.

A - Airway - only examine the airway if your lab is unconscious - withdraw the tongue out of the mouth and explore any impediments.

B - Breathing - Take notice of the chest to view if it is height and falling. If your lab is not breathing, manage two breaths.

C - Compressions - Next, two breaths, if no signs of life, get the ball rolling that is CPR.

If your lab has a heartbeat but is not breathing, you need to undertake artificial respiration.

HOW TO PERFORM CPR ON YOUR DOG:

  * Lay your lab on their right-hand side, with the head and neck gently extended straight.

  * Place your left hand entirely under the chest of the lab where the heart would be situated.

  * Place your right hand on the highest of your lab's chest where the heart is situated.

  * The heel of your right-hand compress in unrelentingly to squeeze the chest wall over the spirit to encourage cardiac activity. Place your fingers lower down the chest and press the center between your fingers and thumb.

  * Compress the chest wall unrelentingly at a rate of 2 compressions per second. For small dogs, compress the chest wall gently but sufficiently enough to compress 1/3 to 1/2 the chest wall. If breathing for your lab as well, administer one breath every six seconds. Repeat signs of life (response, movement, consciousness, breathing) orderly.

  * Transfer to the vet directly. If you have a chauffeur, continue CPR while in movement.

HEARTBEAT RATES (BPM):

The lab's heart beats 60-100 times per minute.

Puppies may have a pulse of 250 beats per minute.

All dogs that have involved in a trauma need to be checked by a veterinarian as soon as possible. Some injuries are not always visible and may cause problems days, months, or years down the track.

If a dog collapses, should CPR be carried out? And if so, how should it be done? Can CPR save dogs' lives?

There is the multiplicity of patterns of humans trying to rescue dogs with CPR, but most of these superhuman tries base on credulous adaptations of human-based procedures. Animals are very different from us, in physiology and anatomy.

Can someone who is not a specialist rescue a collapsed dog?

The obvious answer is that it relies on what is a problem with the dog. If a dog has collapsed because of some other severe underlying disease (such as significant trauma following a road accident), then resuscitation is unlikely to be successful. That said, there are instances where immediate actions can indeed be lifesaving.

HOW DO YOU RECOGNIZE IF A DOG NEEDS CPR?

Cardiopulmonary arrest (CPA) is an important differential diagnosis for any animal that exhibits three vital signs:

It can be amazingly challenging to evaluate these three signs, and the simplest way is to do three other rapid checks, based on the ABC acronym:

A: Airway

B: Breathing

C: Circulation

It should take no further than 10 - 15 seconds to perfect this procedure.

If the airway is not apparent (examine this by opening the dog's mouth and staring at the back of the throat), then surely you have to remove the obstruction.

HOW DO YOU START GIVING CPR TO YOUR DOG?

The basic rule of CPR returns to the acronym used in the initial assessment: Airway, Breathing, Circulation (ABC), although circulation should be treated first of all, rather than last. It refers to apply pressures on the chest as the first, most urgent action. If there is no cardiac output, so ventilation is a waste of time. One study indicates that when the longer chest compressions make late, the outcome becomes the worst.

HOW CAN CHEST PRESSURE BE APPLIED TO DOGS?

There are two targets of chest pressures in dogs

Getting the blood flowing into the lungs to get oxygen into the blood and to get rid of carbon dioxide from the blood.

You are getting the blood flowing to all vital organs to restore the cellular metabolism.

The previous aims are performed by chest pressure in two manners;

By the direct influence of the heart itself, causing its rooms to contract and expand

By activating blood flow around the chest via to the changed overall compressions within the thorax via chest pressures.

Chest compressions should do with your lab lying on their side, aiming to compress the chest to 1/3–½ of its width, at a rate of 100–120 compressions per minute.

IMPORTANT NOTE

  * It's necessary to retreat after each press to allow the chest to bounce back totally.

  * It allows the use of your body weight and your essential abdominal muscles, rather than solely your arm muscles.

( MOUTH-TO-SNOUT) VENTILATION

The animal's mouth should be unrelentingly closed, by wrapping one hand to surrounding it

The neck should extend so that the muzzle follows the same line as the spine: this ensures maximal opening of the airways

Place your mouth firmly over both nostrils, creating a seal, and blow hard so that the chest inflates.

Look at the chest as you are swelling it out, keeping going until you see it rise as it inflates

You should aim to keep the chest raised for around one second

The general rule is that you should carry out cycles of thirty chest pressures, then pause while you deliver two breaths

Combining chest pressures with ventilation

At the same time, you can't ventilate an animal associated with carrying out chest compressions. The general rule is that you should carry out cycles of thirty chest compressions, then stop, while you deliver two breaths. The perfect way, you should keep doing this for two minutes, then let somebody else do your job. It's fatiguing step this type of intensive procedure, and the person doing it must be serious and careful.

WHEN DO YOU STOP CRP?

When you hear the heartbeat, and When your dog breathes spontaneously, you can stop giving CPR. Even if your dog looks like to make a full recovery, be sure to get them to the vet In the fastest time To continue with the clinical examination.
3

# COMMON YOUR LAB EMERGENCIES

In this chapter, I will talk about popular dogs emergencies and guidance's for first aid:

  * insect bite:

Any insect bite or bee sting can bring about problems ranging from a secondary local reaction (pain, swelling, or itching) or extend to a serious one (facial swelling, hives, vomiting, collapse, and trouble breathing). If you suspect your dog has been bitten or stung by an insect:

What to do:

If the stinger can locate, rub off the corner of a fingernail along the entry site to flick it out.

**Note:** if you have allergic to bees, let someone else take off the stinger.

Put a cold compress or ice to the wound for 2-3 minutes if possible.

Make a coating paste with water and baking soda is non-toxic and may neutralize the biting.

Keep an eye on your pet for difficulty breathing, facial swelling, hives, or collapse. If these happen, request veterinary care immediately.

  * BLEEDING

Bleeding is often related to injury, so understanding and controlling blood loss is an integral part of first aid.

Bleeding can be external (exuding from a cut or wound on the surface of the body) or internal (concealed inside the abdomen or chest). Acute or ongoing blood loss can drive to shock, collapse, and even death if not treated without delay.

What to do for external bleeding:

Come close to the injured dog cautiously to avoid getting hurt yourself.

Use a muzzle.

First, stratify direct pressure to the wound using a wad of gauze, tissue, or a clean cloth as a compress. If nothing else is available, your uncovered hand or finger will have to do.

Apply pressure to the wound for a full 10 minutes to allow for clotting.

Keep your dog as quiet and peaceful as possible.

Put your dog on his side and raising a bleeding limb may assist in slow-moving the flow of blood.

To stop the persistent bleeding, request vet care right away.

SIGNS OF INTERNAL BLEEDING MAY INCLUDE:

Top Reasons You Should Take Turmeric

  * BURNS

Burns can be the outcome from exposure to flames, heat, electricity, or mordant chemicals, and they can take place anywhere on the body, including inside the mouth (electric shock, chemical ingestion).

Burns are very painful, tend to aggravate before they get better, and are highly sensitive to infection. Severe burns can require intensive care and plastic surgery.

  * What to do:

Put out any flames that may be present.

Turn off or unplug any electrical source if possible.

For thermal or electrical burns, apply cold water compresses.

For chemical burns, flush the contaminated area copiously with lukewarm running water for at least 15 minutes.

If a caustic chemical is in the eye, flush it with saline eye rinse or running water for at least 15 minutes. Contact lens saline solution can also use, although anything labeled "multipurpose" or "disinfectant" should be avoided.

Request vet care immediately.

  * What not to do:

Do not apply ice.

Do not use creams or butter.

Do not explode blisters or take off burned fur or skin yourself.

  * FEVER

If your dog is acting sick and her muzzle and ears feel hot, she may have an illness. Take your dog's rectal temperature using a digital fever thermometer. A dog's average resting temperature is between 100.5 and 102.5˚F. A temperature of 103˚F or above constitutes a fever. A fever of 105˚F or above is a potentially life-threatening situation that requires immediate attention.

  * WHAT TO DO:

For a temperature of 105˚F or above, institute cooling measures by moistening the dog's hair coat with lukewarm water and placing her by a fan.

Encourage, but don't force your dog to drink small amounts of cold water.

Seek veterinary care immediately.

  * What not to do:

Do not use cold water or ice to cool your pet down. Fresh tap water is better.

Do not over-treat. Once your pet's temperature comes down to 103˚F, discontinue cooling measures.

Do not give human fever remedies such as aspirin, Tylenol®, or ibuprofen to your dog. They could make her very sick.

  * FRACTURE

Symptoms of a fracture (broken bone) include pain, inability to use a limb, or an arm that bent at an odd angle. An open fracture is one that is associated with a free and bleeding flesh wound. With a closed fracture, the surface skin remains intact.

  * WHAT TO DO:

Approach the injured dog carefully (use a muzzle).

Control any bleeding that is present, if this can do without causing worse injury.

Cover an open fracture with a sterile gauze dressing or other clean cloth if possible.

Keep your dog as calm and still as possible.

Transport your dog directly to the veterinarian, supporting the injured body part as well as possible. A blanket held taut between two people can be used as a stretcher if needed.

  * WHAT NOT TO DO:

Never try to splint, bandage, or set a fracture yourself. You are likely to get bitten and make the dog's injury worse.

Do not attempt to clean the wound unless instructed to do so by your veterinarian.

Never give human pain medications to your dog. It could make her very sick.

  * HEAT STROKE

Heatstroke is a severe condition caused by a marked elevation in body temperature. It usually occurs on hot or humid days, primarily if a dog has confined to a warm place such as a car. Dogs can also become overheated after too much exercise and overexertion.

Dogs do not sweat significantly. They mainly control their body temperature by increasing their rate of breathing and panting. If a dog's breath is hindered, they can lose control of their heat and become overheated.

Any dog left in a poorly ventilated car, even for a short time, can be exposed to dangerously high temperatures.

SIGNS OF HEAT STROKE INCLUDE:

heavy panting drooling agitation

That progresses to weakness, confusion, and collapse.

  * WHAT TO DO:

Remove your dog from the sun and heat.

If possible, take your dog's rectal temperature.

Institute cooling measures as for fever.

Request the vet as soon as possible, even if your dog seems to recover with treatment. The adverse effects of overheating can develop hours later.

Get a Too Hot for Spot Window Thermometer for your car to be careful of potentially dangerous temperatures.

  * WHAT NOT TO DO:

Do not use cold water or ice.

look after your dog and do not leave it in the car for an extended period

  * POISONING

Poisoning can result from inhalation, ingestion, or direct skin contact with a toxic substance. Examples include household chemicals or cleansers, prescription medications, rat poison, antifreeze, or even foods that are toxic to pets such as chocolate.

  * WHAT TO DO:

Contact either your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.

Retain any product labels and containers.

Do your best to quantify how much of the toxin your dog ingested/inhaled/contacted and at what time.

Whether or not to induce vomiting is controversial. Seek veterinary advice first, if possible.

If your dog is unable to stand, having trouble breathing, or is unconscious, seek veterinary care immediately.

  * WHAT NOT TO DO:

Do not induce vomiting if your dog is unconscious, unable to stand, or have trouble breathing.

Do not induce vomiting if your dog has ingested a caustic or petroleum-based substance. These can cause even more damage on the way back up.

  * SEIZURES

A seizure is a burst of uncontrollable body movements caused by abnormal electrical activity in the brain. It can be as dramatic as violent whole-body tremors (a grand mal seizure), or as subtle as a repetitive facial twitch or a brief period of disorientation (a partial seizure). There are many causes of seizures, some benign, some serious.

  * WHAT TO DO:

Protect your dog from injuring herself while the seizure runs its course. Make sure she can't fall and keep her away from water.

Be careful not to get bitten.

If possible, record the start and end times of the seizure.

If your pet has just one seizure lasting under 3 minutes, this is usually not an emergency. Contact your veterinarian for further instructions.

If a seizure lasts more than 3-5 minutes or if your dog has two or more seizures in a day, seek veterinary care immediately.

If your dog is diabetic, administer sugar syrup to the gums (if you can safely do so), and then seek veterinary care immediately. Safely do so), and then seek veterinary care immediately.

  * SNAKE BITE

If your dog bites by a snake, it's always safest to assume the snake was poisonous. This determination depends partly on what snakes are common in your area. Antivenin treatment may be needed.

  * WHAT TO DO:

Muzzle your pet to avoid being bitten yourself. Snake bites are extremely painful.

Try to identify the snake if possible (and only if it is safe to do so).

Elevate or immobilize the injured body part if possible.

Avoid touching or manipulating the bitten area.

Keep your dog calm and carry her if necessary.

Seek veterinary care immediately.

  * WHAT NOT TO DO:

Do not attempt to incise and drain the wound.

Do not apply ice or a tourniquet to the area.

Vomiting

  * WOUNDS

Wounds come in all shapes and sizes. A deep wound thoroughly penetrates the skin and may expose underlying muscle, fat, and bone. It requires emergency treatment by a veterinarian. A superficial wound does not penetrate through the skin, and home care may suffice. Bite wounds should always be treated by a veterinarian, no matter how external they seem. There is often more damage beneath the skin than meets the eye. Bite wounds readily become infected without the right treatment. Rabies exposure is also a serious concern if the bite came from an unvaccinated (or wild) animal.

  * WHAT TO DO FOR A DEEP WOUND:

Keep yourself safe from getting bitten (use a muzzle).

Stop any bleeding using direct pressure.

Do not probe, clean, or flush a deep wound or apply anything to it.

If you see something protruding from a deep wound, do not try to remove it.

Cover the wound with gauze or a clean cloth.

Keep your dog calm and still, if possible.

Seek veterinary care immediately.

Transport your dog with the wounded side facing up.

WHAT TO DO FOR A SUPERFICIAL WOUND:

  * Wear gloves if the wound caused by the bite of an unvaccinated animal (risk of rabies exposure).

  * Gently clean the wound of blood, dirt, and debris with mild soap and lots of water.

  * Pat the wound dry.

  * Apply a triple antibiotic ointment.

  * An Elizabethan collar or bandage may be necessary to keep your dog from licking the wound.

  * Minor wounds on the extremities can bandage:

  * Apply a sterile non-stick pad to the injury.

  * Apply several layers of rolled gauze over the wound. Extend the wrap several inches above and below the injury (if space permits) to minimize slippage.

  * Apply an outer self-adhesive wrap.

  * A safe bandage is snug but not tight enough to cut off circulation. If you can't slip two fingers under the dressing, it's too close.

  * Keep the bandage clean and dry.

  * Change the bandage every 1 to 2 days.

  * If redness, swelling, odor, or discharge develops, seek veterinary care immediately. With luck, you'll never need to perform first aid on your pet. But if an emergency strikes, you'll be prepared.

  * SICK DIETS FOR DOGS

Tummy troubles heal faster with bland, low-fat foods on-board. Ask your vet if it's a good idea to keep a few cans of these on hand for emergencies.

Home-cooked diets can work well, too. Boiling low-fat meats then draining the liquid helps reduce their fat content. Consult your veterinarian for specific recommendations. Typical options involve:

Vomiting is a common symptom in dogs. Frequent vomiting, especially when put together with diarrhea, can rapidly lead to dehydration.

  * WHAT TO DO:

Withhold all food and water for 4-6 hours.

If no vomiting occurs, start with small sips of water or pediatric electrolyte solution. Ice cubes can work as well.

In another 2 hours, if all is quiet, offer a larger drink of water.

If this stays down over 2 hours, it's time to try solids. Start with minimal amounts (1-2 tablespoons) of bland food, repeated every 2-3 hours.

If vomiting and diarrhea persist, your dog refuses food, or she becomes lethargic, take her to the vet.

Vomitus or diarrhea containing large amounts of free blood is an emergency. Seek veterinary care right away.

  * WHAT NOT TO DO:

Do not give your pet anything to eat or drink until vomiting has ceased for at least 4 hours.

Do not give over the counter or prescription medications to your vomiting dog unless explicitly prescribed by your veterinarian. These could cause severe injury or death.

4

# BASIC HEALTHCARE

WEIGHTY PROBLEMS - WEIGHT LOSS FOR YOUR LAB

Obesity is the most prevalent nutritional disorder seen in dogs. On average, an overweight lab will live 2-5 years less than a lab with ideal body weight. Health problems show when body fat exceeds 15% above ideal body weight.

  * THE EFFECTS OF OBESITY

Obesity is an acute problem in labs and can be the cause of many issues we see in the veterinary hospital.

Obesity exposes dogs to a range of health problems and puts your lab at risk of one or more of the next:

  * THE CAUSES OF OBESITY

As with people, obesity caused by overeating. Most obesity caused simply because a lab eats more calories than they need. The excess calories than stored as body fat. We have little control over some contributing factors, e.g., Breed, sex, hereditable traits, and age. However, there are others that we can control, these being over-feeding and exercise.

  * REASONS WHY A PET BECOMES OBESE

  * Excessive calorie intake (over-eating)

  * Inappropriate use of snacks, treats, and supplements (human treats and snacks)

  * Lack of exercise

  * Appetite-stimulating drug therapy

  * Social factors (i.e., multi-pet households)

  * Decreased energy requirements, e.g., Hypothyroid disease

  * If an animal has a lower metabolic rate, it is more inclined to obesity. Metabolic rate can be affected by reproduction status (de-sexed pets), climate (pets use almost 70% of their energy from food to keep warm in cold climates), and hormones, e.g., Thyroid Hormone.

HEALTHY SNACKS FOR YOUR LAB

## VACCINATION

Vaccines, vaccinations, immunizations! No matter what term used, they serve a purpose, and almost always a good one. It is essential to understand the meaning and reason behind vaccinating your pets fully.

  * DISTEMPER-ADENOVIRUS-PARVOVIRUS-PARAINFLUENZA

More commonly termed, the "DHPP" vaccine prevents serious transmittable diseases between our canine friends.

Distemper is a very contagious, often fatal disease of the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems. Young dogs are more susceptible, but older dogs that are not well-protected are also at risk.

Adenovirus is associated with canine infectious hepatitis and is one cause of canine infectious tracheobronchitis. The disease spread through respiratory secretions, urine, and feces. Young dogs are the most susceptible to this illness.

Parainfluenza is a common and highly contagious cause of infectious tracheobronchitis. Dogs of all ages are susceptible, unvaccinated, or inadequately vaccinated dogs are the highest risk.

Parvovirus is a highly contagious, very aggressive, and sometimes rapidly fatal gastrointestinal virus. Direct contact with an infected animal's feces and objects infected by the virus provides near-immediate infection.

  * LEPTOSPIROSIS

Leptospirosis is a bacteria that is contractible by both animals and humans.

These bacteria are shed in the urine of an infected animal and can transmit through exposure to contaminated urine.

Leptospirosis typically finds in areas where standing or slow-moving water is present.

If your pet goes on hikes in mountainous regions or swims in lakes, streams, creeks, or rivers, you must discuss this vaccine with your veterinarian.

  * RABIES VIRUS

The Rabies vaccine typically requires by law, and you may be required to register your pet with your State, City, or County government.

Rabies is a preventable viral disease that typically transmitted through the bite of an infected animal.

This disease can cause acute inflammation of the brain in dogs, humans, and other warm-blooded animals and is fatal if not caught early.

WHEN DOES YOUR DOG NEED TO BE VACCINATED?

At 6-8 weeks of age, puppies should receive their first vaccination; this is temporary and needs to be followed up with another one at ten weeks. Ten days after their 10-week immunization, you can then take your puppy out in public areas.

  * DENTAL CARE

More than 80% of dogs over three years old will experience some form of gum disease. Just as in humans, the leading cause of this disease is a build-up of plaque due to poor oral hygiene.

HOW DO YOU TELL IF YOUR DOG HAS A PROBLEM?

You may notice bad breath, a brown deposit on the teeth near the gum line, red swollen gums, and even some difficulty eating. Dogs may need occasional teeth cleaning by your veterinarian, as dental hygiene is essential for good health.

  * WORMING

The most common intestinal worms that affect dogs are roundworm, hookworm, whipworm, and tapeworm. Loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, and in severe cases, even death is just some of the symptoms a dog can experience from a worm infestation.

  * HEARTWORM

Heartworm disease is a severe disease that results in severe lung disease, heart failure, other organ damage, and death in pets, mainly dogs, cats, and ferrets. It caused by a parasitic worm called Dirofilaria immitis. The infections spread through the bite of a mosquito. The dog is the definitive host, meaning that the larvae mature into adults, mate, and produce offspring while living inside a dog. The mosquito is the intermediate host, meaning that the worms live inside a mosquito for a short transition period to become infective (able to cause heartworm disease). The worms called "heartworms" because the adults live in the heart, lungs, and associated blood vessels of an infected animal.

THE HEARTWORM LIFECYCLE IN DOGS

In an infected dog, adult female heartworms release their offspring, called microfilariae, into the dog's bloodstream. When a mosquito bites the infected dog, the mosquito becomes infected with the microfilariae. Over the next 10 to 14 days and under the right environmental conditions, the microfilariae become infective larvae while living inside the mosquito. Microfilariae must pass through a mosquito to become infective larvae. When the infected mosquito bites another dog, the mosquito spreads the infective larvae to the dog through the bite wound. In the newly infected dog, it takes about 6 to 7 months for the infective larvae to mature into adult heartworms. The adult heartworms mate and the females release their offspring into the dog's bloodstream, completing the lifecycle. See a graphic of the heartworm lifecycle in dogs.

Heartworm disease is not contagious, meaning that a dog cannot catch the disease from being near an infected dog. Heartworm disease only spread through the bite of a mosquito.

Inside a dog, a heartworm's lifespan is 5 to 7 years. Adult heartworms look like strands of cooked spaghetti, with males reaching about 4 to 6 inches in length and females reaching about 10 to 12 inches in diameter. The number of worms living inside an infected dog is called the worm burden. The average worm burden in dogs is 15 worms, but that number can range from 1 to 250 infections.

HOW IS A DOG TESTED FOR HEARTWORMS?

A veterinarian uses blood tests to check a dog for heartworms. An antigen test detects specific heartworm proteins, called antigens, which are released by adult female heartworms into the dog's bloodstream. In most cases, antigen tests can accurately detect infections with one or more adult female heartworms. The earliest that the heartworm proteins can detect in a dog's bloodstream is about five months after it bit by an infected mosquito.

Another test detects microfilariae in a dog's bloodstream. Microfilariae in the blood indicate that the dog is infected with adult heartworms (because only adult heartworms can mate and produce microfilariae).

WHEN SHOULD A DOG BE TESTED FOR HEARTWORMS?

The timing and frequency of heartworm tests depend on many factors. Some of these factors include:

The dog's age when heartworm prevention started;

If the owner forgot to give heartworm prevention and for how long; If the dog switched from one type of heartworm prevention to another; If the dog recently traveled to an area where heartworm disease is more common, and the length of the heartworm season in the region where the dog lives.

Dogs that are seven months of age and older should test for heartworms before starting heartworm prevention. A dog may appear healthy on the outside, but on the inside, heartworms may be living and prosperous. If a heartworm-positive dog not tested before starting a preventive, the dog will remain infected with adult heartworms until it gets sick enough to show symptoms. Heartworm preventives do not kill adult heartworms. Also, giving a heartworm preventive to a dog infected with adult heartworms may be hurtful.

5

# EAR, EYE AND NAIL INFECTIONS

## EARS - PROBLEMS, CLEANING, AND GIVING DROPS

Getting to know your lab's ears can help detect and prevent ear problems and infections.

Labrador Retriever is prone to ear problems, inflammation (otitis), and infections can occur in others from something as simple as a grass seed.

  * GETTING TO KNOW YOUR LAB'S EARS:

If your pet is prone to ear problems, we suggest daily checks; for others, a weekly test is ideal.

LOOK OUT FOR CHANGES regularly:

  * The skin color inside the ear should be light pink. If the ear is infected or inflamed, the skin in the listener will be red and maybe thicker than usual.

  * Head shaking and scratching

  * unpleasant odor

  * Pain on touching ears

  * So, what causes ear infections?

  * There are many reasons for ear infections, including:

  * Allergies to food, pollen, dust, etc.

  * Foreign bodies such as grass seeds

  * Parasites such as ear mites

  * Many things can predispose your lab to ear infections, including:

  * Ear size and shape - the ear canal of dogs not designed for adequate drying and drainage. It causes the ear canal to stay warm and moist and, together with poor airflow, provides the perfect environment for natural skin bacteria to live.

  * Environmental temperature and humidity

  * Lifestyle (e.g., swimming)

  * Recurrent infections can also occur because a problem not accurately diagnosed and treated, or an underlying problem has not identified.

CHANGES IN YOUR LAB'S EARS - WHAT SHOULD YOU DO?

The first step is to consult your veterinarian. Your vet will examine the ear with an instrument called an otoscope. If they detect an infection, they will take a swab from the area to conduct cytology to determine the likely cause of the problem, which will assist with the correct treatment choice.

Chronic ear infections can lead to narrowing of the ear canal, which can lead to more frequent infections and less responsive to treatment. Therefore, if your veterinarian suspects an infection, correct diagnosis and treatment must take place.

TREATING EAR PROBLEMS

Your veterinarian may prescribe any of the following treatments: - antibiotics or anti-inflammatory tablets; ear wash/ flush; drops; ear mite treatment; dietary changes; or injections. It is imperative to follow their directions for treatment and visit for a re-check when advised.

Tips on cleaning your pet's ears

Lift the ear flap

Apply the prescribed ear cleaner liberally in the ear canal.

Distribute the cleanser in the ear canal by gently massaging the canal. It may feel like a large solid tube lying just under the skin below the entrance of the channel.

Gently massage the fluid up the ear canal and remove excess liquid with clean cotton wool at the entrance of the channel. Also, clean the inside of the ear flap. Repeat these steps until the excess fluid no longer looks dirty.

How to apply antibiotic/ antifungal ear drops

If required, shake the drops before use.

Tilt your pet's head so that the ear treated is upright.

Dispense the drops into the ear canal.

Gently massage the ear to ensure complete distribution of the medication.

Store the drops as instructed (refrigeration maybe required).

Some final tips

Do not use cotton buds in your pet's ears.

Be gentle when massaging the car canal, mainly if it is painful.

If your Lab does not have ear problems, it may still be helpful to clean their ears regularly to remove wax and dirt and prevent inflammation.

  * EYES - CLEANING, CHECKING, AND STAINING

At home, eye, cleaning, and eye checks will keep your pet comfortable and free from eye-related problems. Homecare is particularly crucial for your Lab.

Steps to eye cleaning

Have on hand a bowl of warm water, cotton balls/squares of soft clean cloth

Find a well-lit area

Hold your Lab's head and look for anything unusual or changes such as redness, irritation, cloudiness, swelling, excessive weeping, or any foreign bodies. If you notice any changes or objects floating within the eye or around the eyelids, please contact your veterinarian. To prevent long term damage, please do not remove foreign bodies and contact us immediately.

If your Lab's eyes look healthy, you can then use a moistened cotton ball/square or cloth to wipe the eye. Use a fresh section of the fabric each time you clean, carefully using a downward motion away from the eye.

Tear staining

The best way to manage tear staining is prevention. Do this by:

Daily cleaning with warm wet cotton balls to prevent build up.

Regular clipping of hair around the eyes

It is best to check with your veterinarian if you are concerned about staining. Changes such as a sudden increase or onset of tear production, an inflamed eye, excessive blinking should be treated as an emergency to prevent permanent eye damage or loss.

  * NAIL CLIPPING FOR DOGS

Understandably nail clipping can be stressful if the not frustrating time for dogs and dog owners. However, keeping your lab's nails neat and tidy is essential for preventing potential breaks, tears, ingrown nails, and soreness as well as other problems related to posture and back care.

If your dog is still a puppy, you have an added advantage as you can get them used to the feeling of having someone touching their toes from week one. On the other hand, if your lab is older, patience and persistence will be required. Before saying too much more, we never expect every pet owner to clip their pets' nails themselves. Sometimes it is just not worth the stress to you and your pet. Whenever required, a member of our healthcare team will be more than happy to trim your dog's nails for you. They can also demonstrate the most appropriate nail trimming technique for your dog if you are having any troubles and still want to give it ago.

  * WANT THE PROFESSIONALS TO DO IT?

How to clip your dog's nails

Hold the paw gently but firmly and cut a little at a time until you reach the quick.

The "quick" can identify as the thin red line that runs through the nail. It is the blood supply to the nail bed. If the nails are trimmed too short, then you may cut into this "quick," which will make the nail bleed, and it is excruciating for a lab! If your lab has black or dark nails, the "quick" will not be visible. Trim the pin back to make it even with the pad and cut a little piece at a time.

  * HOW OFTEN DO YOU NEED TO TRIM THE NAILS?

Generally, no two dogs are the same; some dogs may need their nails trimmed as regularly as every three weeks, while other dogs can go up to three months, and some won't need their nails clipped. It is a result of factors such as their environment. For example, if your dog often walks on hard surfaces such as asphalt and paving, the nails will be worn down naturally. Generally, we say if you can hear dogs' nails click when they walk \- they need to be trimmed.

#  PART FOUR

# LEARN HOW TO SPEAK YOUR LAB

This part of the book will help you understand what your dog is trying to tell you when it growls, barks, or jumps around. Learn the secret language of your Lab. This part contains five-chapter which distributed as follows:

  * The Science of Dog Speak

  * The Anatomy of Dog Brain

  * How to Speak Dog

  * Dog's Body Language

  * Practical Application

1

# THE SCIENCE OF

# DOG SPEAK

Have you ever seen two people contact each other when they do not speak the same language? They will sign, point, wave, move their bodies, physically walk one another to something and finish.

In our time, they might even use Translation applications to help them find the words. These called communicating. They are finding ways to speak.

Thus, the human-dog bond relies on communication that develops from living together, training, and learning one another's patterns of behavior. In general, linguists define language as a signaling system. Thinking about how dogs can vocalize and use their bodies to signal to us, there is already a language that exists between dogs and humans. Studies have shown that dogs recognize style at about the same grade of comprehension as a toddler. Language specialists think that it is the liability of humans to find the signaling systems out of the dogs to communicate, preferably.

HOW HAS THE HUMAN-DOG RELATIONSHIP EVOLVED TO USE LANGUAGE?

In his book, How the Dog Became the Dog, author Mark Derr has hypothesized that ancient man and wolf discovered one another while on the hunt for the big game. Humans would follow the wolves who were on the scent of the game, and the wolves would benefit from eating the scraps of the kill. As humans and animals hunted together, they began to live together, and they evolved from this relationship into breed able to communicate and work together. Other theories conjecture that humans would care for wolf pups and raise them to assist them in the hunt. A recent study did show that puppies reacted to the human voice more than adult dogs, perhaps suggesting pups evolved to be responsive to the sound of the human at a biological level from those early interactions. Although we do not know, for sure, how the relationship began, we do know that the human-dog relationship began out of a need for survival - to hunt and the benefit of joining with others for survival. Those basis survival instincts remain foundational to our communications with our best buddies. Through our daily interactions with our dogs, we are reinforcing words with praise, food, and attention, and our dog is learning that those words that he hears are a signal of good things when he gives you the response that leads to those rewards. As dogs and humans lived and worked together, their bond evolved to be dominant at a biochemical level. In other words, because of the evolutionary relationship, humans and dogs emit the "love" hormone, oxytocin, when they look into one another's eyes. When words are associated with that physiological response, it is no wonder that dogs can understand our terms, and often, our emotions as well.

THE SCIENCE OF DOG-SPEAK

Scientists have been studying the language capacities of dogs and our abilities to perceive their signaling systems. The most talkative animal species, such as chimpanzees, parrots, and elephants, also evolved to be social. Dogs are social and use their vocalizations to communicate, as well. Dogs are not able to use their lips and tongues to produce human sounds. Dogs can train to imitate some sounds; for example, a dog may resemble "I love you" as "Wa - Roo - Roo." Some animal behaviorists believe that if your dog could tell you what they think when they imitate your sounds, the dog would say, "I just really want the cookie." In studies on the ability of dogs to communicate a meaning, a study conducted with 40 volunteers who listened to the growls of dogs in different situations - guarding their food, facing a stranger, and playing tug-of-war. The women were better at interpreting the dog growls than men. Overall, humans were 63% successful. They were most successful in identifying the play-growling sounds. The study highlighted the importance of understanding context to interpret the dog's signaling systems. Some scientists are considering new possibilities for dogs to speak and serve humans. There are technologies developed for persons who are unable to speak for a variety of reasons, usually due to a medical or physical challenge. Augmentative and Alternative Communication (AAC) systems provide options for the individual to signal their needs to refuse, request, seek information, or socialize using pictures, letters, words, or sounds. There are a variety of methods for the individual to indicate their choices by eye gaze, touch, or head movements. Futurologist, Dr. Ian Pearson, has proposed that by the year 2050, dogs may be able to use an adapted form of these technologies to speak. When we consider the ways dogs will assist humans, there is a potential for dogs to serve humans better. For example, an older person may have a dog that can remind them to take their medication. Who knows?

DO DOGS UNDERSTAND HUMAN LANGUAGE?

Anyone who had ever seen their dog hop to attention when they used the word "treat" knows that dogs understand the same terms as humans. But is it accurate to say that animals use language?

Man's best friend is hardly the only animal capable of amazing humans with communication skills. Extensive studies using gestural communication (sign language) explore the cognitive potential in the great apes. Also, a recent book chronicles the late Alex, an African Grey Parrot that could comprehend the difference between syntax and the meaning of words in English, distinguishing his cognitive skills from instinctive communication.

ANIMAL COMMUNICATION

Instinctive animal communication versus learned cognition is at the heart of a debate raging in zoosemiotics, the study of animal communication. In his book The Language Instinct, Steven Pinker points out that there are seven properties in human language that separate it from animal communication:

Some of these properties appear in animal communication, but it takes all seven to create human language. In contrast, animal communication is mechanical, not learned. Animal communication is highly functional and associated with survival, sustenance, reproduction, or activities unrelated to these goals.

Animals communicate through biological functions, such as scent and color. Certain aquatic species, the most sensitive being sharks, send electric pulses through electrocommunication.

So, when a dog starts wagging its tail and jumping when it hears you say "park," the canine understands the events that typically occur in association with the sounds. While animals are capable of a dazzling variety of these word-event connections, the qualities listed above that make the human language such a pliable resource also illustrate the big difference between us and our pets.

CAN DOGS UNDERSTAND NOUNS?

At 15 years old, Chaser had a long and beautiful life, but her story began long before she was even born. After losing his beloved dog Yasha, Dr. John Pilley had decided he would never have another dog again. But after retiring from his position as Professor Emeritus of Psychology at Wofford College in South Carolina, he became obsessed with Border Collie trials. In his work with Yasha, a Border Collie mix, Dr. Pilley found that dogs were not able to learn the independent meaning of words, so he was surprised to see that these Border Collies seemed to be problem-solving.

According to Dr. Pilley's daughter, Pilley Bianchi, one night he was sitting around the fire with some of these farmers and told them, "you know science shows us that your dogs don't even know their name? Dogs cannot learn proper nouns."

Bianchi said the farmers responded: "Is that what science shows us? Then tell me why I can call out my dog Jeb out of four dogs and ask him to go get Millie and Tillie, two sheep out of a hundred, and he can do it every time?" At that moment, Dr. Pilley realized that his methods were flawed. "He understood that he needed to go back to the drawing board and find words that had value to the dog. It was the impetus for him to begin researching with Chaser," Bianchi said. And so, on the Christmas before Dr. Pilley's 76th birthday, his wife Sally told him, "you're getting a new dog. You're getting a border collie from Wayne West."

TEACHING CHASER WORDS

Chaser came into their lives on April 28, 2004, and earned her name because "anything that moves, she wants to Chase," said Dr. Pilley, who passed away on June 17, 2018. His goals were with Chaser to teach her human language and explore what the brain can do.

When she was two months old, Dr. Pilley started teaching Proper Chaser nouns, beginning with a blue ball. He used a strategy called "errorless learning," which means setting up an environment in which the subject cannot fail. "He would name it, show it to her, say 'catch blue' and throw it to her," explained Bianchi. "He'd put it in front of her and tell 'find blue.' On the third day, when she could retrieve the ball from another room, he knew it was time to move on to another object. At the end of the fifth month, she had learned 40 words and kept them in her long-term memory."

Dr. Pilley said: ((I have long believed that fully understanding anything fundamental, in human life or nature, requires us to combine three ways of experiencing and knowing the world: science, myth, and poetry. If we don't have all three, we're bound to miss something important, and it's in this spirit that I've sought to tell Chaser's story. Sooner or later, there will be many Chasers. Now that Chaser and I are both in our later years, we're impatient to see other animals follow in her footsteps and perhaps go beyond her. So, I hope you'll seize opportunities for learning through play in your relationships with dogs and other animals. Who knows? You may be living with a puppy or other creature who can, like Chaser, extend the boundaries of what we thought was possible for animals and expand our understanding of nature and our rightful place in the natural world.))

Dr. Bailey added: ((I hear from people who wonder if I have an extra tip up my sleeve, I could share with them to use with their dogs. I have put all I know about dogs' learning into telling you about Chaser and showing you how I have interacted with her. The key ideas are all in the anecdotes I share about living and working with Chaser from the day she entered the Pilley family. Use play to motivate your dog's learning and capitalize on the energy of the game every step of the way you take it together. If you want to teach your dog the essential elements of language, begin with play with one named object at a time. Gradually build up your dog's vocabulary of different types of words. And then work on combining those words into sentences with multiple elements of grammar, like "to Ball, take Frisbee," and "to Frisbee, take Ball." If there's some other creative learning you want your dog or another animal to acquire, try to do the same things in those areas. Identify the ABC concepts or behaviors the teaching requires. Find a way to give those things inherent value in play. And leverage the energy and internal reinforcement of game to motivate solving a series of increasingly difficult challenges. Fundamentally, there is one thing you must do to explore learning through play with a dog or other animal: respect the other mind involved with you in the process. Remember that communication is a two-way street and allows for that other mind to influence you and your behavior. I experience this with Chaser every day as we continue trying to extend her learning through play. My conscious focus in our various games is on increasing Chaser's ability to understand sentences with multiple elements of grammar and to learn by imitation combined with verbal and visual cues. However, the mutual conditioning between Chaser and me has become such that it's often not clear to me who is the teacher and who is the student in determining what games we play and for how long. It's much easier for me to track who is leading whom when someone else is interacting with Chaser.

For three years, Dr. Pilley trained the dog, named Chaser, four to five hours a day: He showed her an object, said its name up to 40 times, then hid it and asked her to find it. He used 800 cloth animal toys, 116 balls, 26 Frisbees, and an assortment of plastic items to teach Chaser 1,022 nouns ultimately.

In 2013, Dr. Pilley published his findings that explained that Chaser taught us to understand sentences containing a prepositional object, verb, and direct object.

Dr. Pilley told The New York Times in 2014 that "the big lesson is to recognize that dogs are smarter than we think, and given time, patience and enough enjoyable reinforcement, we can teach them just about anything." "What a lot of people don't know about Chaser is that she is not an obedient dog," Pilley's daughter said with a laugh. "What my father wanted to do was teach her a concept instead of rote behaviors, so that gave her a lot of leeway and freedom. And while she knew the obedience commands, they didn't apply to her for most of her life."

2

# THE ANATOMY OF DOG BRAIN

Dog's brain is a very complicated organ. It's not so different from our minds. Each part of a dog's brain controls a set of vital functions like memory, the senses, or motor skills.

  * TELENCEPHALON

The front part of the brain is called the telencephalon. Information from the five senses interpreted there, and it is also where thought occurs. Dogs have large telencephalons that make their ears, nose, and eyes exceptionally sensitive. It also is responsible for dogs' undeniable personalities and their advanced social behaviors.

  * DIENCEPHALON

Behind the telencephalon lies the diencephalon. Most basic functions controlled in this portion of the brain. Chewing, breathing, equilibrium, and the collection of information from the senses all occur here. This part of the brain is highly advanced in dogs, contributing to their fast reflexes, agility, and the acuteness of their hearing.

  * METENCEPHALON

This part of the brain is behind the diencephalon. It is responsible for more exceptional muscle skills and the regulation of blood flow and pulse rate and is also the brain's reward center. For dogs, this part of the brain contributes to their remarkable endurance and stamina and is the part of the brain responsible for their love of playing fetch and other games.

  * MEDULLA OBLONGATA

At the base of a dog's brain, where it connects to the spinal cord, is a structure known as the medulla oblongata. Here the essential functions that occur without thinking are regulated. Digestion, heartbeat, respiration, swallowing, and sneezing are all controlled in this area of the brain. The medulla oblongata is the first part of the brain that develops in puppies before they are born.

  * CORPUS CALLOSUM

In the middle of a dog's brain is the corpus callosum. It is a wall of nerve cells which facilitates communication between the left and right side of the telencephalon and diencephalon. Depending on the breed of dog, the corpus callosum's size and the speed at which it allows the halves of the brain to interact can vary significantly.

Do you ever wonder whether your dog understands what you're saying?

ACCORDING TO A STUDY PUBLISHED IN THE JOURNAL SCIENCE:

Dogs use the left hemisphere of the brain to process words, like humans, said Attila Andics, a research fellow at Eotvos Loran University in Hungary and lead author of the study.

Meanwhile, the study also suggests that dogs use a right hemisphere brain region to process intonation independently of words, which means they may separate what you say from how you say it.

"It was surprising that dogs, like people, have a clear left hemisphere dominance for processing meaningful words and that they combine word meaning and intonation to arrive at a unified representation of meaning," Andics said.

"What makes dogs special is that they pay attention to human social signals, including speech," he added. "This study is the first step to understanding how dogs interpret human speech, and these results can also help to make communication and cooperation between dogs and humans even more efficient."

The study involved 13 dogs where the researchers used the machine to record and measure neural activity in the dogs' brains while they listened to a woman trainer, whom they were familiar with, recite various words in various intonations.

The researchers used the machine to record and measure neural activity in the dogs' brains while they listened to a woman trainer, whom they were familiar with, recite various words in various intonations.

For instance, positive or meaningful words such as "well done," "good boy," and "clever" said in both a praising intonation and a neutral intonation.

The brain scans revealed that parts of the left hemisphere reacted the most to the meaningful words. In general, the brain's left hemisphere linked to language and speech processing in most humans.

Meanwhile, parts of the right hemisphere reacted to intonation, suggesting that the dogs processed the meaning of words separately from the tone in which they were spoken, according to the brain scans.

Only when a praise word spoken to the dogs in a praising tone of voice did the brain's reward center light up like a Christmas tree in the brain scans. The reward center is the part of the brain that responds to pleasurable stimuli, like food treats or being petted.

"Our finding supports those who think that some nice words can also work as a reward for dogs," Andics said.

In 2014, the same research team conducted a similar MRI study, published in the journal Current Biology, in which brain scans were taken of both 11 dogs and 22 humans while they listened to dog sounds, human sounds, and random non-vocal sounds.

In that study, similar patterns found in dog and human brains, but a left dorsal auditory region of the dog brains responded stronger than the human minds to the dog sounds.

Some scientists reference the old and new research as evidence that dogs have language-processing neural capacities than previously thought to be uniquely human.

UNDERSTANDING HOW DOGS THINK

When most people consider how dogs think, they focus on one undeniable fact: dogs aren't people. The assumption that follows is that dogs don't feel like people.

While it's true that dog isn't human and do indeed think differently to us, we're more alike than you might think.

Dogs come to understand the world, and each other, in the same manner as human children are introduced to the world, through visual cues and scent clues. They are particularly keen observers of body language, and the amount of information they can glean from another dog's posterior is astounding. Unlike humans, whose main form of communication and comprehension is vocal, dogs rely predominantly on the scent, followed by sight, then sound, and finally, the use of their voice. As an example, a dog will learn a hand gesture - a visual cue - far quicker than a verbal command. If you tap your leg, they will learn that means 'come here' much more rapidly than they will understand you speaking the words. Once they understand the visual cue, it is the association of the sound with that hand gesture that teaches them what the words mean.

While there are similarities in the way humans and dogs think, there are also significant differences. Dogs are fully aware of this difference and cannot trick into believing humans are dogs, even when we try our best to emulate them. Dogs are keen observers of human behavior and understand the differences between people and dogs. They don't attempt to communicate with humans, in the same manner, they would like other dogs. They know we are different and wouldn't understand them, so they act in a way human can understand.

Dogs are fully aware that they can't (usually) do these things themselves and are equally aware that humans can. They understand how we think, perhaps better than we know how they feel.

DOGS ARE A LOT SMARTER MORE THAN WE THINK. SO HOW DO DOGS THINK?

Dogs don't read or write, so they don't think in words and symbols the way humans do. However, they can undoubtedly teach to recognize symbols and words and the actions associated with them, but this is done through meticulous training and isn't their natural state.

But dogs are still very similar to us in what they think about, even if they don't think about it in the same way. They have goals and needs. They know they need food and shelter; it usually has a keen desire to learn new things, and they retain their hunting instincts, buried in their genetic memories, from a time when dogs were wolves and hunted their food. That's why a wild dog will hunt; he won't go hungry. But dogs also need to play and be entertained, and they need physical reassurance and comfort.

The most important thing to remember when it comes to an understanding of how dogs think is that they're a lot like us, in terms of wants and needs; they perceive things differently and struggle to express themselves in a way we understand. Dogs have as many obligations and want as people, albeit concerning very different things. Once you know what a dog needs and wants, it's a lot easier to understand their behavior, and you come closer to understanding how they think.

I do not think when two dogs are barking at each other, and they are communicating anything directly using the language called "barking."

They don't have the physical facility to speak human, but they understand human speech. Lots of it. And they do have specific vocalizations. You know what they mean when they growl. They have happy-sad bored vocalizations and many others. It will understand if you make those vocalizations.

They also have a full repertoire of body language that they use all the time. If you listen to it, it will use it to tell you things. Their eyes are especially rich in expression. Ear - postures, you must meet them halfway on these. They recognize attitudes in humans.

DO YOU WISH YOU COULD COMMUNICATE MORE CLEARLY WITH YOUR DOG?

Would you like a better understanding of why your dog does the things he does? My goal is simple: I want you and your dog to have the very best relationship.

In the next chapter, I will explain to you how to speak dog.
4

# HOW TO SPEAK DOG

Dogs are always communicating. They don't speak our language, and they talk about a dog. A dog's first language is body language and energy. They have very elaborate ways of expressing how they're feeling. They can tell us when they're angry, afraid, anxious, curious, happy, and much more by using every part of their body to convey their emotional state of being.

  * To speak "dog," you need to answer these three questions:

WHAT IS THE DOG DOING?

Is he growling? Is he digging holes? Is he jumping up on people? Is he chewing your shoe?

WHAT IS THE DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE?

Is his tail up?

Is his tail tucked?

Is he baring his teeth?

Is he running with a bouncy gait?

WHAT IS GOING ON?

Are you at the dog park? In your house? At the vet? Are there other dogs there? Little kids?

IF YOU CAN ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS, YOU CAN TRANSLATE THE DOG'S LANGUAGE TO ENGLISH LANGUAGE

I will give some examples to illustrate this point.

## EXAMPLE1 (GROWLING)

You get to the vet's office, and the reception room packed. The only seat left is the one by the door, where people and dogs are coming and going. In walks a German Shepherd who approaches your Labrador Retriever, Bella. After the German Shepherd sniffs, her for a few seconds, Bella starts to growl. Why?

First, we need to answer our three questions:

1. WHAT IS THE DOG DOING?

(Name the exact behavior the dog is doing, being careful to stay away from adjectives and descriptors. You're looking for a specific action.)

Answer: Growling.

2. WHAT IS THE DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE?

(Observe the dog and list precisely what you see and hear.)

Bella licks her lips and yawns. Her ears are back, she's pulling away from people and dogs who come near, and her tail tucked. Then when the German Shepherd comes in for a sniff, Bella tenses up more, her weight shifts towards him, she bares her teeth, her ears raise, and she growls.

3. WHAT IS GOING ON?

(Describe the context of the situation.)

Packed reception area at the vet. Many dogs were coming and going through the door next to your seat.

Now we put the information together to find our answer:

You learn that dogs often growl when they feel threatened by someone or something. But they may also growl when they are playing. We need more information to figure out what's going on.

Let's look more closely at body language.

First, we see some subtle clues:

Bella licks her lips and yawns.

Her ears pulled back.

As more people and dogs enter the room, her body language becomes a little louder:

Her eyes grow wide with more whites showing, and they fired on the people and dogs corning near her.

Her body is stiff, and her weight is moving away from them.

Her tail is also tucked (not shown).

Then the German Shepherd walks in and gets close to sniff, and Bella growls.

Her body becomes hard as a rock.

Her ears are up and alert.

She snarls and bares her teeth.

We've narrowed our choices down to two options:

1. Bella feels threatened.

2. Bella is playing.

We can see that Bella appears distressed. Because of that, play is looking far less likely as an explanation here, but let's add in Step Three to make sure we're right.

1. WHAT IS GOING ON?

We're at the vet. On a good day, a visit to the veterinarian can be scary for dogs. This visit made even worse because the pup is squashed in by the door where dog after dog after dog gets into her personal space

SO, WHAT IS THE ANSWER?

BELLA IS SCARED

Bella is growling to ask the thing that is scaring her — the other dog — to back off. And the body language cues that led up to her growling are classic signs that a dog is distressed: licking lips and yawning, wide fixed eyes with whites showing (often referred to as "whale eye"), and a tucked tail.

Her fears increased with each new person who entered the room, and Bella needed to protect herself — she needed more space. So when the German Shepherd walked in and got too close, Bella said, "Back off!" with her growl.

Great job, Bella! Without that growl, she might skip past politely, asking the other dog to give her space and might instead bite him. Her bark is your cue to help get Bella away from the scary thing. Maybe wait outside or in the car for your appointment or ask if you can expect in one of the exam rooms.

## EXAMPLE2(PUPPY BITING)

"Ouch! She's like a villain!" Isabella cries while trying to explain how much her new puppy, Lola, bites her hands, legs, feet, arms, kids, shoes, Prada handbag. "It never ends!"

Lola is a 10-week-old black Lab with tons of energy. She runs all over the house in a bouncy way with her tail wagging like a helicopter blade in motion. When Lola is around people, she nips and nips and nips and nips.

Isabella couldn't take it anymore, so she turned to a dog trainer for help. The trainer told her to pull on Lola's whiskers every time she bites so that she learns what it feels like to inflict pain on others and, thus, stop doing it herself.

When Isabella tried it, Lola yelped, pulled away, and her tail tucked. The biting did stop a bit, so Isabella did it again. But the more she does it now, the less energy Lola seems to have. It's not as goofy as it was. And, she stays by herself more than she did before.

"Maybe she's just getting older ... so, normally, she's a little less puppyish?" Isabella asks us. "But I don't know," she continues. "Lola also backs away now when I go to hand her treats, and she flinches anytime someone tries to pat her on the head. I'm worried the whisker pulling is hurting her.

Let's help Isabella figure out what's going on by answering our three questions:

1. WHAT IS THE DOG DOING? (Name the exact behavior the dog is doing.) Biting

2. WHAT IS THE DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE? (List what the dog looks and sounds like.) At first, she's bouncing all over the place, has a wagging tail, is an "explosion of goofiness." Then, when her whiskers pulled, she yelps backs away, and her tail tucks. Lola is increasingly less goofy, energetic, and social, and she now pulls away when offered treats by hand or when petted overhead.

3. WHAT IS GOING ON? (Describe the context.) Lola is a 10-week-old puppy, whose whiskers get pulled when she bites.

Let's dig in.

1. WHAT IS THE DOG DOING?

You know that biting is something puppies do a lot! They're getting to know this crazy new world they find themselves in, and they use their mouths to do it. And they haven't learned yet how to play bite without hurting someone - this is the time to teach them.

But is Lola just being mouthy and play biting? We need to look at her body language to make sure.

2. WHAT IS THE DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE?

We've got a couple of different emotions going on.

At first, Lola plays bow. The body is loose and bouncy

Jumping to great

But after Isabella starts pulling Lola's whiskers, Lola's body language shifts to "distressed."

  * Tail tucked

  * Making self-small

  * The body shifted away from a threat.

3. WHAT IS GOING ON?

At 10-weeks old, Lola is going through the "socialization period," which is a window of time when dogs learn about what's right, wrong, safe, and scary in life. Good experiences with new people, places, and things teach puppies that those things are safe and enjoyable. Conversely, wrong lessons prepare them to fear things. Puppies are so impressionable at this age that one bad experience can sour them against something for life.

Here's the thought process Lola might be going through:

"When Mom's Hand comes near my face, she pulls on my whiskers, which HURTS!!! So, I've learned that hands coming near my face are SCARY!"

It would explain why Lola is no longer taking treats by hand and is also flinching when people reach into pet her.

  * WHAT'S THE ANSWER?

Isabella's gut was correct in telling her that something was wrong with the change in Lola's behavior. By following the advice of the trainer to hurt Lola when she bit, Lola learned to fear her and other people.

So, what should Isabella do to teach Lola — without scaring her — to stop biting everyone and everything?

Take away the thing Lola wants (playtime with Isabella) the second she bites down hard — every time. Rather than giving Lola pain from her whiskers pulled, which is both inhumane and likely to cause Lola to become afraid, she gives Lola a little time-out. It will likely take many repetitions of "Lola bites hard, so Isabella gets up and leaves" for Lola to figure out that she needs to stop biting hard. But if Isabella sticks with the plan and gives Lola a time-out every time, Lola will learn to soften up her bite.

Fear is natural to acquire and harder to get rid of it. Things like giving Lola eye drops to treat an infection or a toddler waving his hands in her face could scare Lola to the point where she bites. It is the exact opposite result than Isabella was hoping for it.

It's going to take a great deal of patience and empathy now to help Lola feel comfortable with people reaching in towards her face again, and Lola will likely have to work with a qualified trainer or veterinary behaviorist to get it done.

## EXAMPLE3(HOUSETRAINING)

Ruby, the Labrador Retriever, become house quickly trained when she was adopted as a puppy two years ago. But recently, Ruby has started peeing indoors. Sometimes she does it when she's home alone; other times, she does it right in front of her family. She stops whatever she's doing (playing with a toy, reclining in a sun patch on the carpet, or wandering about), squats, and pees. Although her family is alarmed, they know that punishing Ruby will make things worse, so they have refrained from that.

To make sure Ruby hadn't developed a urinary tract infection or some other medical condition that could have caused a housetraining lapse, her family took her to the vet for a checkup. Happily, Ruby is in perfect health.

Nothing about her daily activities has changed, except for one thing: she switched daycare facilities last month.

Why is Ruby peeing indoors? Let's ask our three questions to find out.

1. WHAT IS THE DOG DOING? (Name the exact behavior the dog is doing.) Peeing indoors

2. WHAT IS THE DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE? (List what the dog looks and sounds like.) From what they've been able to see, Ruby's body looks relaxed: she moves around freely, doesn't whimper or bark, has a neutral tail, soft ears, and worry-free face.

3. WHAT IS GOING ON? (Describe the context.) Ruby doesn't have any health problems, she pees indoors whether she's alone or not, and she switched daycare facilities.

Now we put the information together:

1. WHAT IS THE DOG DOING?

There are many reasons why dogs have housetraining problems. Most often, these dogs didn't completely housetrain. That is, their owners have not reinforced outside elimination and prevented (with a crate, for instance) any mistakes inside. Sometimes, however, they have a medical condition that causes a weak bladder, or they are urinating because they are afraid.

The vet ruled out any medical conditions, so we're left with training and fear as possible explanations. We can look at Ruby's body language to determine if she is scared.

2. WHAT IS THE DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE?

If Ruby were scared, we likely would not see her at all. She would hide away to do her business, perhaps in the basement, or she would be urinating out of panic when she's left alone. If we did see her, we might see her hunched over, licking her lips or flicking her tongue, glancing away, with worry lines on her face, and ears flattened back, and she might pace around uncomfortably.

Making self-small Tail tucked Paw raised

We do not see any of that. Instead, Ruby looks relaxed.

  * The body is loose and bouncy.

  * The brow is smooth and relaxed.

  * Weight balanced, tail wagging.

Of course, we can only see Ruby when someone is home with her, so to completely rule out fear, we'd need to use a camera to get a video of her when she's alone. But the fact that Ruby is peeing indoors even when people are with her, and she doesn't look distressed then, suggests that fear is probably not the cause.

3. WHAT IS GOING ON?

Ruby switched daycare facilities. It turns out that the old daycare place used to take dogs on walks to go to the bathroom, but the new one has the dogs roam free all day and go to the toilet on the rubber flooring inside — they have staff on hand to clean things up right away.

  * SO, WHAT IS THE ANSWER?

Initially, Ruby housetrained using a crate to keep her from having accidents indoors. Her owners also rewarded her with delicious pieces of roast chicken when she relieved herself outdoors. In no time at all, Ruby figured out that going to the bathroom outdoors meant beautiful, tasty things on top of a feeling of relief, and so she developed a strong preference for pottying outdoors.

But everything changed when Ruby switched daycare centers. Not only did she not get much free time, but she and all the other dogs gave free rein to relieve themselves indoors. Once Ruby learned in daycare that urinating inside provides the same reinforcement (that is, the relief of an empty bladder) as peeing outside, it was only a matter of time before she tried the same behavior at home.

Luckily, this is a straightforward fix. It's back to basics for this family to teach Ruby to pee outdoors. Just as Ruby learned housetraining before, she can do so again. A few more days in the crate will likely get her back to the nicely housetrained dog she used to be. And she can quickly learn that while it's okay to urinate inside in one space, it's not okay in all areas.

5

#  DOG'S BODY LANGUAGE

"Some people talk to animals. Not many listens, though. That's the problem." ― A.A. Milne, author of Winnie the Pooh. If your dog could speak to you, what do you think your best friend would want to tell you? What would you want to know about your dog's feelings and experiences? Dogs do vocalize. They also communicate with their body language. Consider the many ways we bond and work with our dogs. They greet us when we come home, guard us, help us do our jobs, and assist persons with disabilities. How would that special bond we share with them extended and intensified if your dogs could speak? Animal lovers believe that our humanity improved by our relationship with animals. Imagine how our capacity might expand if we could talk about our dogs!

Dogs are incredibly social animals with an arsenal of communication skills that can rival even those of humans.

Many of us tend to lump canine interactions into just one category – barking, but there are many kinds of dog messages with each one attempting to convey an entirely different emotion or signal.

BARKING UP THE VOCALIZATION TREE: Here are some of the more common bark bark variations along with their meanings:

DOG LANGUAGE BEYOND THE BARK

There are different types of vocalizations that dogs will use to communicate. It is their language. The main categories of dog-speak are barking, growling, whining, howling, and whimpering.

A distressed dog will have a high pitched and repetitive bark. Sometimes dogs get bored, and they bark in a monotone. If your dog wants something, they might bark at you with persistence. Dog whining is high pitched with the mouth closed. Dogs whine when stressed and frustrated. Howling is often triggered by high pitched sounds and often considered a form of communication between wolves. Some dogs will also howl when distressed. Growls are a sound take it seriously because they are usually a warning. Your dog speaks, you need to learn your best friend's language.

MINI DICTIONARY OF DOG BODY LANGUAGE

We live in a world with many styles. We think of writing as words that are spoken and written. When we communicate, we also express our emotions and our needs with our physical expressions. We call that form of communication, "body language." Your dog communicates with you through body language. As a caring owner, it is essential to learn the language of your dog. It will make your dog safer and more confident. It will make your relationship better and may even keep everyone in your household safer if you can learn the signals of your dog.

Dogs can talk—they don't use human words, but they can tell us how they feel and what they're thinking with their tails, head, posture, and ears. Since dogs have done us great kindness by learning some of our language (sit, stay, come, and walkies!), it's only fair that we learn dog language. Every ear twitch, wag, and vocalization are a "word," but words need to string together to interpret their meaning. Dog body signals meant to read together, even when they seem to contradict each other. Here's a mini dictionary of dog body language enjoy your reading:

5

# PRACTICAL APPLICATION

  * HOW TO HELP SHY, ANXIOUS, OR FEARFUL DOGS

Desensitization:

That means exposing your dog to the thing that frightens him—the trigger—in a systematic, gradual way. For example, if your dog were afraid of the sound of the vacuum cleaner, you could start by turning the vacuum on when your dog was in the next room. Once he was comfortable at that distance, you could turn it on when he was just outside the office. Eventually, you would work up to his being satisfied with the sound up close. Through desensitization, your dog will learn at his own pace that the big, scary thing isn't so bad.

Classical conditioning:

Use classical conditioning by pairing the scary thing with something your dog likes. Let's say your dog is afraid of other dogs. Start at a distance at which your dog is comfortable, whether it's ten feet from passing dogs, or fifty. Every time another dog appears, start feeding your dog treats. Keep feeding them rapidly, one after another. If you'd like, you can also chat cheerfully with your dog at the same time. But once the other dog is gone, the treats and chatting should stop immediately. By teaching your dog that good things happen when other dogs appear and stop when they're gone, a change will eventually occur in your dog's emotional response.

Learn to read your dog's body language:

Dogs give subtle signals when they are afraid. We all know about flattened ears and a tucked tail, but yawning, licking the lips, a tense, stiff body, scratching, and sniffing the ground are also signs that your dog may be nervous. If you are working with your dog and see any of these signs, back off to a distance that does not trigger your dog's reaction. If your dog does react, leave the area as calmly as possible and start at a more excellent range the next time.

Habituation:

In some cases, habituation can help. If your dog is merely shy or hasn't spent much time around other dogs or people, take your dog with you everywhere you can. It should only do if your dog's level of stress if mild. Your dog will eventually habituate—get used to—being around people and dogs.

Teach people to use non-threatening body language:

If your dog is shy of people, allow her to approach them in her own time instead of the other way around. A person walking toward your dog and leaning over her can be frightening! Petting is another consideration. Most people want to pet a dog palm-down over the dog's head, which can be scary for the dog. Once your dog has approached someone, ask that person to pet your dog on the chest or side of the face, without staring at her or leaning over her.

The person can even turn their body to the side. This body language will make your dog more comfortable.

Seek the help of a professional trainer:

Owners are sometimes not as concerned about their dog's fear issues as they are about things like destructive chewing or bad manners, but fear issues are often at the root of these symptoms and should take seriously. Chronic stress can be very unhealthy for any dog, and can even cause impairment of the immune system, just as it can in people. And some fear issues, such as fear of unfamiliar people and dogs, can eventually turn into aggression issues if left untreated.

## SIGNS YOUR DOG UNDERSTANDS WORDS

You can tell if your dog is listening to you by his reactions when he hears your voice. The same as with speaking to people, the first sign that your dog is listening to will be your dog's attention to you. Does your dog look at you? Lift his ears? Tilt his head? These are all signs that he is paying attention to you and taking in the words that you are communicating to him.

Remember that dogs can vary in their word responsiveness based on unique personalities and based on their socialization opportunities.

  * Alert

  * Head tilting

  * Wagtail

  * Ears drop

  * Eye Gazing

All social mammals have evolved remarkably discriminating ways of reading the signals sent to them by their group members, typically members of the same species. However, recent research shows that dogs are surprisingly good at reading certain types of social cues in humans.

Surprisingly, Daniel J. Povinelli, a psychologist at the University of Southwestern Louisiana, found that our closest animal relatives, chimpanzees, were initially quite poor at this task. (Actually, so were three-year-old human children, though they were better than the apes.) However, both the chimps and the kids could quickly learn to read the correct cues. The real surprise came when a team led by Robert Hare of Harvard University ran the same test on dogs. The dogs could immediately interpret the signals indicating the location of the food four times better than the apes, and more than twice as well as the young children, even if the experimenter was a stranger.

NOW THE REAL QUESTION IS: WHERE DID DOGS GET THIS TALENT?

The first guess might be that since dogs descended from pack-hunting wolves, the ability to pick up social signals evolved to help coordinate the hunt. If so, one would imagine that wolves should be at least as good at the bucket task as dogs. However, when Hare tested wolves at the Wolf Hollow Wolf Sanctuary in Massachusetts, he found that they were worse than chimpanzees and a lot worse than dogs. The next guess might be that dogs learn to read human body language because they hang out with and watch their human families. It would suggest that young puppies, especially those still living with their littermates and not yet adopted into human families, should be destitute at picking up social signals. Wrong again! Even nine-week-old puppies, still living with their mother and littermates, do better than wolves or chimps. "The punch line is that this ability did not inherit from the last common dog-wolf ancestor, and it does not take tremendous exposure to humans," said Hare in a recent conversation.

With the experimental evidence driving wooden stakes through the hearts of the two most obvious explanations, we still left with the question: where do dogs get their superior ability to read human signals?

Dogs that could figure out their masters' intentions and desires would have been more likely to thrive in a human-dominated environment and hence produce younger. But were specific dogs initially chosen to be domesticated because they had a better ability to understand people? Or was the improved ability some unintended by-product that arose during the process of domestication?

Here are signs your dog love:

# PART FIVE

# HOW TO TRAIN

# YOUR LAB?

The key to a good dog is a well-trained dog. When you train together, an unspoken language builds between you through words, hand signals, whistles, and other methods. Test your training skills. This part contains-three chapter which distributed as follows:

  * Training Tips

  * Essential Tools for Training

  * Puppy Socialization

1

# TRAINING TIPS

Training is a fantastic way to relate to your dog and will help you build a good relationship with them. A rewarding part of dog ownership is successfully training your dog.

Dogs are intelligent animals, and most love to learn, so training can be a great way of stopping them from getting bored. Your dog needs to realize how you'd like her to manage it and why it's in her significant benefit to comply with your desires.

There are many solutions, techniques, and schools of thought regarding how to better train your dog.

The training we want to do to correct each behavioral issue is like laying an individual brick of a structure. But blocks are laid upon a foundation, and if the foundation is weak, the entire structure will be ineffective.

Before I talk about training, there are tips for dog training that every trainer can agree to it. Follow these commandments of dog training to ensure you raise a dog that's not just well-behaved, but happy, healthy, and kept safe, too.

TRAINING TIPS:

  * Be kind:

Always train with kindness and love. Remember that your dog is a sentient being, capable of feeling love and pain, happiness, and sadness. Training with compassion and love instead of force, punishment, and fear will allow your dog to behave and perform cues because he wants to instead of playing for fear of being punished.

  * Be patient:

Whether you're just getting started or working on complex behaviors, your dog is going to make mistakes. Whoever said, "patience is a virtue," very well could have been talking about dog training! If, during practice, you find yourself (or your dog) becoming frustrated, take a break. Exercise is a marathon, not a sprint – no need to rush through it!

  * DO Communicate:

Learn to communicate with your dog. Although dogs don't speak in the same way humans do, that's easy to understand – if you are know-how. Understanding your dog's body language is essential, not only in training but in raising a happy, healthy dog.

  * Be Honest:

It's sometimes easier to trick our dog into doing what we want, but building trust isn't natural. The secret to demonstrating your honesty to your dog is in your sincerity (you don't try to fool him)

Be sincere. Don't be deceptive with your dog, either in words or inactions.

  * Be predictable.

Your dog should be able to predict the cons of his action. Set your dog up for success, not a failure. Help him achieve a goal, rather than punish him for not realizing it. Your dog has a right to dignity. Don't mock him and don't use humiliating tactics as punishment.

  * Be Fair

The secret to treating your dog fair is in having rules that are specific, clear, and achievable, and ethical consequences.

Start with a Small Number of Rules:

No jumping on any people, ever. No jumping into or out of the car until instructed.

Sit before receiving your dinner. Your Dog Should Obey All Family Members

  * Be Consistent

Consistency is a strength (as it will not budge), and flexibility is dependability, both of which encourage trust. The secret to being consistent with your dog is to be clear yourself about what you want, to ask for it consistently, and do not go back on your decisions. Do what you pronounce that you will do and use perfect choices.

  * Motivate with Positive Reinforcement

We build a dog's motivation to please by rewarding his good behavior. We focus on solutions rather than problems. We help the dog develop a pattern of success, which increases his motivation to perform.

Lucky dogs feel loved and included and can progress to the fourth level of need: the need for esteem and self-worth.

It is how his position in the pack's hierarchy is determined. You can help your dog gain this feeling of achievement and respect by assigning him chores that contribute to the household, and by helping him to be successful with his duties. An excellent job for a dog is the traditional fetching of the morning newspaper. Your dog will grow to understand the importance of this job and will have tangible evidence of his contribution (the paper). Your praise for a job well done will give him confidence and self-esteem.

Positive reinforcement needs to mediate with discipline. Focus on the solution, not the problem.

Help your dog develop a pattern of success, which will increase his motivation to perform.

  * Fuel the drive

That's her reward. Treats are a powerful primary reinforcer, but in many dogs, there is an even stronger reinforcer: the opportunity to engage in a prey-drive activity. There is a kind of intensity you get in using a toy reward with a highly prey-driven dog that you can't get with food. The dog will do just about anything to get that toy!

It can produce highly reliable behavior because the dog's desire to satisfy the drive is so compelling to him. The fastest dogs with the most drive and endurance are those working for toys rather than food.

  * Attention Is a Reward

Recognize your core toward your dog as the powerful reward that it is. Cultivate your dog's desire for your attention, and you've got something of high value that you can use to influence his behavior. Use it as a payoff for your dog's good behavior or learned behavior and withdraw it because of his inappropriate behavior. Be a fun person to be around so that your dog values your attention.

  * Cue, Action, Reward

The basis of teaching any cued behavior is the sequential and proper execution of the signal, action, and reward. The key is to get as many successful repetitions of the practice as possible (there are multiple ways to elicit it) and to mark the success with precise timing and while the dog is in the correct position.

  * One command, One Consequence

A part of loving your dog is disciplining him so that he does not become a prisoner of his misbehavior. Discipline prepares him with the skills and manners to have additional freedoms and to integrate into more areas of your life. Training is not punishment and is not hurtful; it is the compassionate enforcement of fair rules. Exercise is a clear and consistent structure for you and your dog to understand the expectations and consequences.

  * Focus on the behavior you want.

Decide what you want your dog to do when the doorbell rings, or when you are eating dinner. There are thousands of "wrong ways" for your dog to behave during these events. If you want your dog to go to its bed when the doorbell rings, train that behavior chain.

  * Teach your dog, self-control.

Realize that your dog ultimately controls his behavior. You can sometimes control the environment, and you can give consequences if you are on the spot. Teach your dog that calm, controlled response will get him what he wants.

  * If your dog doesn't respond appropriately to a command after several attempts, don't reward him. Resume training a few seconds later using a more straightforward power. Return to the more complex task then.

  * Always end training on a positive note. Ask your dog to respond to a command you know it will obey. Then reward it's for a job well done and issue a finish command such as "free" or "release. "Make the training sessions (5 to 10) minute with a few times a day. The uninterested dog will not learn as quickly and efficiently as a dog that's well-rested and excited to learn.

  * Reward your dog's successes. Because dogs generally repeat actions that are successful for them, reward-based training is a proven method for teaching the behavior you expect and the desire of your dog.

  * Train in a variety of environments. Because dogs don't generalize well, it's essential to have training sessions in a variety of different

  * Keep training fun! One of the most important things to remember when training your dog is to keep it fun! If you and your dog are happy, enjoying your time together, and making progress, you're doing it right! If you find that your dog seems uninterested in training, think of creative ways to make it fun for him.

  * Make sure the reward you offer in training is the most powerful one for your dog. Food-motivated dogs work well for food, but the treats used should be favorite foods for the dog, such as small pieces of cheese or freeze-dried liver. You want your dog to be strongly motivated to obey commands to receive the treat.

  * Food treats, if used, should be small – no more significant than the size of your little fingernail. The texture of the treatment should be such that it does not require chewing and should not crumble. Otherwise, you will lose your dog's attention as it Hoovers up the crumbs. Large treats, take too long to eat, causing the dog to lose concentration.

  * If praise used as a reward, deliver it in high singsong tones, which are most pleasing for the dog. Also, enthusiasm in your voice will be much appreciated. If petting is to use as a reward, it should be in a way that the dog enjoys, such as stroking the dog's hair on the side of his face in the same direction that it grows or scratching him on the chest.

  * The timing of the reward is significant. After a correct response, reward your dog within ½ second of the command to ensure that your dog makes the connection between its behavior and the reward.

  * Once training has accomplished in a quiet area, you can gradually begin to work in environments with more distractions, continuing the practice in the yard, on leash, progressively lengthening the rope between you and the dog and finally dropping it, so the dog is now obeying without you at the other end of the lead. It may be helpful to continue this training in relatively busy environments so that you can maintain control even in distracting situations.

THESE TIPS THAT EVERY DOG'S PARENT SHOULD FOLLOW WILL ENSURE YOUR DOGS WILL BE SAFE, HAPPY, AND HEALTHY.
2

# ESSENTIAL TOOLS FOR TRAINING

As with anything, the right dog training tools will help you in your journey of training with your dog.

  * CLICKERS

A small plastic button that produces a click when pressed, it's used to mark the correct behavior of your dog at the exact moment that it happens.

The click is followed up by giving your dog a treat and thereby causing him to associate the clicking sound with a reward.

Eventually, a dog weaned off the treats (or at least the large amount that used at the beginning), and the dog learns that the click means a gift is coming eventually!

While I don't find that clickers are the best dog training tool to use for obedience training (sit, stay, come, heeling, etc.), they have their place in agility and other dog sports. A clicker can be handy in teaching your pooch tricks, as well.

  * DOG TRAINING WHISTLES

Often used in herding and hunting, a dog training whistle is perfect for working at a distance or out of sight of your dog. You can train your dog to respond to different noises for commands such as come and stay. As a dog's hearing is better than their sight, it's an excellent tool for training.

Remember - a whistle in and of itself won't guarantee a good recall! It's the training and practice that you put into it that will.

  * DOG TRAINING COLLARS

There is a lot of mixed opinions on collars. The fact is, your dog needs one. Trying to train a dog without a training collar is a lot like trying to drive a car without power steering.

  * CRATES AND KENNELS AS DOG TRAINING TOOLS

What in the world does a box have to do with training a dog? Everything! Create one of the essential dog training tools.

Used in the right way (never as punishment), a crate can solve a lot of problems in the house - from chewing to peeing inside. And dogs love them; they are "den" creatures, so a cozy crate is the perfect safe place.

A crate is the safest place for your dog to travel in, too. Not to mention that any overnight veterinary visits will go smoother if your dog is used to being in a crate.

Crate training a dog is best done very incrementally and should never be rushed!

Another way you can use one is by teaching him a "place" command. When you have people come to the door, or you want to eat dinner without your dog begging, send him to his place.

  * LEASHES (DOG TRAINING LONG LINE)

Leather or nylon-This is the type of leash to get for training. 6 feet is the right length to start with it.

Longline or lunge line - Another significant investment! I recommend anyone training a dog to get one of these. I use a 50-foot-long range regularly for working on my dog's long-distance recall, as well as for sit-stays and down-stays at a distance. And this is THE tool to use when you teach your dog to fetch!

  * ELECTRONIC TRAINING EQUIPMENT

E-collars and other electronic training equipment are often over-looked or branded as being inhumane.

Dog's world is very black and white, and a dog learns best when he shows what is and is not good behavior. A dog who jumps is not going to stop jumping unless he is corrected for jumping and praised for keeping all four paws on the floor.

There are many different types of electronic dog training equipment available:

I use the balanced training method and focus more on verbal and physical praise (or toys) than treats. If I had to give a percentage, I'd say that my dog gets a gift about 5% of the time. But you'd better believe that the rewards it does get are the best dog training treats out there!

Treats are per se a necessary part of the training, but I recommend using a small amount to help create motivation in practice.

Dogs live for the moment, so reward and correction must be for the moment, too!

  * DOG TOYS

In dog training, the reward is just as crucial as a correction. I believe that the best rewards are varied and exciting to a dog. What do I mean?

Well, your dog's healthy bone or chew toy isn't the most exciting thing your dog has seen. But if you have a special toy that only comes out for training, your dog will be so interested in this new toy that it'll do anything for it!

Why would you use a toy? Well, not all dogs are food motivated. My dog will do anything for food and won't even look at a toy. But some dogs are the opposite. In this case, using a toy as a dog training tool to reward is the perfect solution.

Find a dog chew toy or ball that he goes crazy for (or even a stick!) and use that instead. In this case, you would allow him to chew the toy for about 30 seconds and then put it away.

Just a note on timing: For your reward to practical, it must appear within 1.5 seconds of the good behavior!
3

# PUPPY SOCIALIZATION

Socialization is a term that often used in dog training books, in dog magazines, and by breeders and trainers. But what does it mean, and how will it affect you as a new puppy owner?

One of the neatest things about puppies is that they are little sponges! They soak up the world around them, and when they feel safe, they are curious and engaged with life. We all know that socializing puppies – the process of getting them accustomed to the world around them – is critical to a pup's comfort and happiness later in life. **Socialization can help puppies** :

  * Learn how to get along with other dogs and not be afraid of people.

  * It accustomed to handling – a skill that can help with grooming, vet visits, and more.

  * Learn to deal with a little bit of excitement and stress without falling apart.

  * Learn that the world is safe, which can reduce fearful and aggressive behaviors.

THE PUPPY SOCIALIZATION PLAN

The Puppy Plan is a step-by-step, simple, but comprehensive socialization plan that starts with the breeder who works through the first vital eight weeks. When the puppy goes to his new home, the Plan is then passed onto the new owner to continue.

4WEEK-16 WEEKS = SOCIALIZATION

Socialization is most critical for young dogs from 4 weeks to 4 months. However, maintaining your dog's socialization is a life-long process. Your dog needs to expose to all sorts of people, environments, and different looking dogs. Socialization is accomplished by gradually allowing your dog to investigate different looking people, children, environments, objects, and dogs. It is critical that the dog is exposed to new stimuli voluntarily and not forced to interact with beings or objects s/he is afraid.

  * During this period, puppies need opportunities to meet other dogs and people.

  * In the first three months of your dog's life, there are two basic rules:

By seven weeks, the most influenced by their littermates and are learning about being a dog.

IN THE 1980S, **Pat Schaap** , an expert dog trainer, developed "THE RULE OF SEVENS" for socializing a puppy.

By the time a puppy is seven weeks old, he/she should have:

Been on seven different types of surfaces - carpet, concrete, wood, vinyl, grass, dirt, gravel, wood chips, etc.

  * Played with seven different types of objects \- big balls, small balls, soft fabric toys, fuzzy toys, squeaky toys, paper or cardboard items, metal items, sticks or hose pieces, etc.

  * Been in 7 different locations - front yard, back yard, basement, kitchen, car, garage, laundry room, bathroom, crate, etc.

  * Met and played with seven new people - children, older adults, someone with a cane or walking stick, someone in a wheelchair or walker, etc.

  * Been exposed to 7 challenges - climb on a box, climb off a table, go through a tunnel, climb steps, go down steps, climb over obstacles, play hide and seek, go in and out of a doorway, run around a fence, etc.

  * Eaten from 7 different containers - metal, plastic, cardboard, glass, china, pie plate, frying pan, etc.

  * Eaten in 7 different locations - crate, yard, kitchen, basement, laundry room, living room, bathroom, etc.

Margaret Huges credited with creating the Puppy's Rule of Twelve, which expands on the 7-week list to include activities up through 12 weeks of age.

Presents a challenge for breeders who want to assure the puppies they are raising are well socialized. What are these 12 activities?

BY THE TİME A PUPPY İS 12 WEEKS OLD: HE/ SHE SHOULD HAVE:

  * Experienced 12 different surfaces: wood, carpet, tile, cement, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud, puddles, deep pea gravel, grates, uneven surfaces, on a table, on a chair, etc.

  * Played with 12 different objects: fuzzy toys, big and small balls, hard toys, funny sounding toys, wooden items, paper or cardboard items, milk jugs, metal items, car keys, etc.

  * Experienced 12 different locations: front yard (daily), other people's homes, schoolyard, lake, pond, river, boat, basement, elevator, car, moving car, garage, laundry room, kennel, veterinarian hospital (to say hi and visit, lots of cookies, no vaccinations), grooming salon (to say hi), etc.

  * Met and played with 12 new people (outside of family): include children, adults (mostly men), elderly adults, people with wheelchairs, walkers, people with canes, crutches, hats, sunglasses, etc.

  * Heard to 12 different noises (garage door opening, doorbell, children playing, babies screaming, big trucks, loud motorcycles, skateboards, washing machine, shopping carts, powerboat, clapping, loud singing, pan dropping, horses neighing, vacuums, lawnmowers, birthday party, etc.

  * Been exposed to 12 fast-moving objects (don't allow the puppy to chase): skateboards, roller-skates, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, people running, cats running, scooters, vacuums, children running, children playing soccer, squirrels, cats, horses, cows, etc.

  * Experienced 12 different challenges: climb on, in, off, and around a box; go through a cardboard tunnel; climb up and down steps; climb over obstacles; play hid and seek; go in and out a doorway with a step up or down; exposed to an electric sliding door; umbrella; balloons; walk on a wobbly table (plank of wood with a small rock underneath); jump over a broom; climb over a log; bathtub (and bath); etc.

  * Handled by owner (and family) 12 times a week: hold underarm (like a football), hold to chest, hold on floor near owner, hold in-between owner's legs, hold head, look in ears and mouth, touch in between toes, hold and take temperature (ask veterinarian), stay like a baby, trim toenails, hold in lap, etc.

  * Eaten from 12 different shaped containers: wobbly bowl, metal, cardboard box, paper, coffee cup, china, pie plate, plastic, frying pan, Kong, treat ball, spoon-fed, paper bag, etc.

  * Eaten in 12 different locations: backyard, front yard, crate, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bathroom, friend's house, car, schoolyard, bathtub, up high (on the workbench), under an umbrella, etc.

  * Played with 12 different puppies (or safe adult dogs) as much as possible.

  * Been left alone safely, away from family and other animals (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week.

  * Experienced a leash and collar 12 different times in 12 different locations.

## THE PUPPY'S RULE OF SOCIALIZATION

Make sure all experiences are safe and positive for the puppy. Each encounter should include treats and lots of praise. Slow down and add distance if your puppy is scared!

Left alone safely, away from family & other animals (5-45 minutes) many times a week. Experienced a leash and collar many different times in lots of different locations.

Ray and Lorna Coppinger, in the book "Dogs – A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior, and Evolution, discuss how 80 % of a dog's brain is fully formed by four months of age, from 4 months to a year the remaining 20% of the brain develops. Most of a dog's brain growth occurs from 4 weeks to 4 months, this is the most critical time, and when socialization will make the most significant difference. Once the brain's growth stops, it becomes far more challenging to "change the wiring."

At birth, a puppy has all the brain cells; necessarily, it is ever going to have during its whole lifetime. If the puppy brain has fundamentally the same number of cells as the adult brain, how can it grow ten times bigger? The answer is that brain growth is almost entirely in the connections between the cells. Of all

Early training and socialization are critical factors in a well-rounded dog able to take on the competitive ring.

Learning and socialization begin from the time the puppy enters the world despite an initial lack of senses. The period up to sixteen weeks is fundamental to puppy development, and experiences during this time help shape the dog will become.

While all puppies need socialization and imprinting on everyday experiences, those intended for competition require more to prepare them for their sport.

  * Conformation dogs need to learn how to stack and move and be at ease being handled not just by you, but also by new people over the body, feet, head, and mouth.

  * Hunting dogs

should be exposed to decoys and bumpers through retrieval games, along with water, boats, gunfire (at a safe distance), a variety of environmental terrain, and clicker training for the sit, sit to whistle, and directions.

Competitive obedience dogs need to learn to focus on the handler and react quickly to cues or direction. Obedience training should be made fun with the use of toys and clicker training to teach attention heeling, sit down, stand, etc. to hold their interest.

Regardless of plans for your puppy, it is essential to remember that he is still a puppy and should not push harder than he can handle. Any socialization or training should be an excellent experience to maintain interest and make it fun for you both. Though dogs go through several life stages before they reach maturity, a strong foundation from the start makes all the difference.

5 MONTH TRAINING

These later puppy learning stages focus on generalizing behaviors to new locations and situations outside the home.

Continue your "sit for attention" training by extending the game to strangers coming up to your dog to pet him. To start, have a few friends practice the same exercise you did with "no jumping" while you hold your dog on a leash. They should only pet him when he's sitting down.

When you're in public and a stranger approach, give your dog the "sit" cue before allowing the person to pet.

Practice "Come" in public: Use an extra-long "training lead" to practice recall in public places. Start by giving your dog five feet to roam, and practice calling it back to you for a squeaky toy. Add length until it at the end of the lead.

As he gets farther away, the temptation to leave you to romp with another dog gets higher, so be sure your play reward and enthusiasm is super high!

If space is fenced in, you can even end your practice session by letting your dog play freely with the other dogs as a reward for one last recall.

INCORPORATE TRAINING INTO YOUR DAY-TO-DAY:

Here are a couple of ways to incorporate training into your puppy's daily interactions to make sure mental stimulation starts early.

  * Sit Before Exiting

Always make your pup sit and wait before exiting your home. Make sure you have treats on you and lure your puppy into a sit at the front door. Start opening the door, and if your dog stands up, close it quickly. Keep playing this game until your puppy remains seated and waiting patiently with the door open. If you are consistent with this, your puppy will soon learn to wait for you every time you leave home.

  * Wait Before Meals

Most puppies highly motivated by food. If your pup waits anxiously for each meal and pounces on the food bowl, then this is an excellent opportunity to work on some self-control. Before every meal, have your pup wait to eat. Place the container on the floor and tell your pup to stay, if he lunges for the box, pick it up and try again in 5 minutes. Start with a 5-second wait, then 10, 15, etc. Your pup's self-control will get better with practice. This game will help in all different scenarios, both in and out of the home.

  * Four on the Floor

Does your puppy jump up on you or your visitors? It is prevalent and may even be cute when your pup was 2-3 months old. But a rapidly growing and the clumsy 5-month puppy can wreak havoc on unsuspecting bystanders entering your home. Practice the "four on the floor" lesson when you come home to stop your puppy from jumping up. When you come back, and your pup is jumping with joy to see you make him sit before you say your hellos. Give an ear rub and warm greeting only when all four paws are flat on the ground.

6 MONTH TRAINING

Around six months, your dog enters canine adolescence. It can be one of the most challenging puppy training stages.

You'll probably notice some new challenges as hormonal changes and maturity cause him to have a little less focus on you and more focus on other dogs and things in the environment. Goals for training a 6-month-old puppy include:

Strengthening recall in public spaces.

Keep his attention on you during leashed walks to avoid pulling.

Sit and stay on cue in various situations, like waiting at the vet.

"Leave it" to interrupt a distraction like a food item on the ground or another dog walking by.

As an overview, as you move through the various puppy training stages, think of the most critical behaviors your young puppy needs to acclimate to for you both to be happy and healthy.

Start with teaching him about his new home and routine, being gentle with people, and appropriate places to potty.

Then move into training for safety, like crate training, leash training, and coming when you call. Everything moving forward is a continuation of these training basics by adding distractions and practicing in lots of different places.

Your precious little pup will be calm and sleepy one minute and will suddenly flip a switch to level insanity. Your puppy will run around the living room in circles, bouncing up and down on furniture and act like a lunatic for a good 5 minutes. Don't sweat it; your puppy is not possessed.

The puppy craze is normal and healthy; it provides a quick energy release as a response to all the puppy energy bottled up inside. But that little burst of excitement doesn't constitute the day's exercise. By six months, you should be taking your puppy on long walks, running in the park, or playing fetches at least once every day.

As your pup grows up into puppy adolescence, it is extremely crucial to provide exercise and stimulation daily. Behavioral problems such as chewing, digging, and barking begin to occur at this age, and the most effective way to stem these harmful behaviors is by providing adequate physical and mental stimulation. If you don't have time to take your pup to the park or on long walks, consider enrolling in puppy daycare to get that energy released while you are working. Remember, a tired dog is a good pup!

## MENTAL STİMULATİON İS KEY

Providing outlets for spiritual energy, such as advanced puppy training, is just as crucial as outlets for physical energy. Try to practice new training skills a few times a day in 3-5-minute sessions. Teach a new behavior every week to keep things exciting!

Have your puppy 'work' for meals by feeding kibble or treats from a food-dispensing toy. Your pup is becoming a better problem solver, so provide him with more challenging chew toys to show off his smarts and burn some steam figuring them out.

7 MONTH TRAINING

Below are a few characteristics that will drive you crazy through adolescence. Recognize these puppy behaviors in your 7-month puppy and understand that with a little extra attention and patience, this phase will pass. Luckily puberty in your pup doesn't last quite if inhuman teenagers! Remember, your sweet loving puppy will return shortly, once he finishes destroying your home and pissing off the neighbors.

  * Independence

Your 7-month pup will suddenly become more interested in what's going on around him and less interested in you. Don't be jealous. See this as a challenge to make yourself more exciting to your puppy. Try playing more games and provide generous rewards for good puppy behavior. Switch up the awards to keep your pup guessing. Treats, bones, toys, belly rubs, and "life rewards" such as park time, are all great to offer up.

  * Forgetfulness

Puppy brain farts are reasonable at this age. Simple skills your puppy could perform in his sleep are now a mystery to him. It is usual for puppy parents to take a step back in training, even with those pups that were star pupils at puppy school. Be patient with your dog, he has a lot going on upstairs, and simple puppy training review sessions can make all the difference.

  * Destruction

The most disturbing aspect of adolescence is the destruction that often comes along with it. You thought you survived the worst of it, but during adolescence, the puppy is chewing returns! It can include gnawing on everything (furniture, shoes, trees, etc.), digging giant potholes, jumping up on visitors, barking, and the list goes on. The best advice we can give you at this point is to practice your breathing exercises :). Keep your pup focused on training, and always reward handsomely when your puppy displays actions you want to encourage.

  * Try Some Advanced Training

Your 7-month puppy may take a few steps back in training during puppy adolescence, but don't let this discourage your efforts! Learning ebbs and flows for all developing babies and continuing education is key to staying on track. We recommend you enroll your pup in an advanced training, tricks, or agility class.

Advanced training sessions keep your puppy mentally stimulated, focused on behaviors you want (rather than those you don't), and will further strengthen your bond. Remember always to use your positive reinforcement techniques.

If your pup shows concern or fear, take a step back, reassess, and plan on more gradual exposure in the future. We will discuss socialization more next month but remember to get out there as early as possible to experience the world!

A Quick Note: If your puppy is losing focus during training sessions, try to shorten the length of each session. Ideally, meetings should be no more than 3-5 minutes in length and spread out throughout the day.

  * Weathering the Adolescent 7 Month Puppy Storm

These four tips are going to get you through some long days trapped in an adolescent household. Structure and exercise are crucial elements. Helping your puppy develop better impulse control is also vital. Give your 7-month pup loads of opportunities throughout the day to earn what he wants (attention, toys, food, and playtime).

  * Stick to a Schedule

A daily routine is one of the easiest ways to keep your puppy out of trouble. Try to stay consistent with mealtimes, walk/park schedules, and lots of brief training sessions. Your consistency will help build his flexibility.

  * Run Your 7 Month Puppy Wild!

We probably mention the importance of puppy exercise in every one of our training guides. Well, here it is again run that pup ragged!

  * Interactive Pup Toys

It takes time and repetition for your puppy to learn what are the right puppy chew toys and what is not. Be patient, reward, and praise your puppy when he picks up an approved chew toy. Never yell at your baby or grab the muzzle to correct the action. A hostile response might scare your pup and teach him not to like hands reaching toward the face

  * Advanced Puppy Training

As mentioned above, consider enrolling your dog in an advanced training, tricks, or agility class. The increased focus required of advanced puppy training exercises will help improve obedience, impulse control, and responsiveness to your requests.

  * Play Some Games!

Playing games with your puppy is a great way to encourage mental stimulation and strengthen your bond. Sign up below, and we will send you a few fun games to play, including the cup game and hide and seek!

8 MONTH TRAINING

  * Aggressive Behavior in Pup Adolescence

As your pup progresses through adolescence, you may see some signs of aggressive behavior towards other dogs or new people. Stay calm and remove your puppy from the situations as best you can. Reacting impulsively (by saying "no!" or otherwise reprimanding your puppy) may exacerbate the issue. If it is not possible to remove your puppy from the situation, try to draw attention to a command or behavior that is very familiar.

Ask your pup to sit, lie down, shake, or spin in a circle. Use treats to reward this behavior. Often the distraction of a familiar command will allow your pup to get out of the aggressive zone and refocus on something positive.

  * Destructive Behavior in Puppy Adolescence

The most disturbing aspect of adolescence is the destruction that often comes along with it. You thought you survived the worst of it when your puppy was teething, but during adolescence, the damage returns! It can include chewing on everything (furniture, shoes, trees, etc.), digging giant potholes, jumping up on visitors, barking, and oh, the list goes on and on.

The best advice we can give you at this point is to practice your breathing exercise. Your 8-month puppy will grow out of this phase quickly. Try to manage the destructive behaviors by exercising your pup as much as possible. Two or three trips to the park or long walks per day may be required. Also, try to set your puppy up for success. Make plenty of bones, chews, and toys available, so your puppy doesn't resort to the furniture.

  * Don't Play Chase!

Never chase your pup if he has something you want. Your 8-month-old puppy sees chase as a game and running around the house, trying to grab your dog will only reinforce this behavior. It can combat all the hard work you have put in with the come command. Instead, find something your baby wants and offer it as a trade. Toys and chews work well.

9 MONTH TRAINING

  * You may still see some pretty aggressive chewing or behavioral changes occur. The teeth and jaw are strengthening, and that champers need more robust toys to withstand the pressure. Softer plush toys may start to get shredded more quickly, so try tough rubber or rope toys. Remember, no toys are genuinely durable.

  * Find places where your 9-month pup can run off-leash (your yard, a dog park, or a training school) safely and let him have a blast zigging. While playing off-leash, make sure your pup is continually checking in with you. It is a good idea to have a high-value reward on-hand so you can get his attention, even when he is distracted.

  * Practice Makes Perfect for Puppy Training

Provide plenty of practice sessions while you are home as baby steps towards the end goal. Have your pup rest in his crate or tethered a few feet away from you so he can get used to spending short periods quietly alone.

  * Limit Your Hellos and Goodbyes

Keep greetings and departures calm. Building up your pup's excitement around your comings and goings can make the time you are away far more challenging for them. Take a moment to relax when you come home before saying hi and exit by setting your pup up with some chew toy fun 5-10 minutes before you leave.

  * Desensitize Cues

Your pup is smarter and getting smarter by the day. He will pick up on cues such as the jingling of keys, putting a coat on, etc. Try to desensitize these cues by doing them regularly while you are at home. For example, jingle your essentials and then go about folding the laundry.

  * Exercise and Stimulate Your Pup

A 9-month puppy with pent up energy and bored out of his mind is more likely to destroy his surroundings. Give your pup plenty of exercise before long stints alone. Also, help your pup to stay happily engaged with chew toys (and therefore less concerned with your absence) by being creative with the healthy snacks you stuff in them.

  * Create a schedule: puppies thrive on continuous, positive exposure to handling and grooming. Create a puppy grooming schedule and stick to it! Pair moments of styling and grooming with tiny food rewards and your pup will come to appreciate these brief sessions.

10 MONTH TRAINING

As your puppy continues to develop preferences, it is essential to maintain the socialization process. Meeting new people, sniffing new dogs, and checking out new locations will help your puppy stay well-mannered into adulthood. Try to visit local coffee shops, new parks, and take a stroll around Main street. The introduction of new places will encourage your puppy to become comfortable with a variety of people's encounters and experiences.

  * Continued Exercise and Mental Stimulation for Your Puppy

As your puppy grows older, you may see a decline in energy levels. It is natural, but don't use it as an excuse to slack off on exercise and training.

  * New Games and Activities

Do you notice your pup is getting bored with the activities you used to play? If so, try to find new ways to exercise. Start incorporating a game of fetch or frisbee into your routine, play hide and seek around the house with your pup's favorite toy, or go for a bike ride. New activities will keep your dog excited and will burn off some steam.

  * Advanced Training

Let's face it, and your puppy is a genius. By the time your pup has reached ten months old, he will so well train the neighbor's children will look like little demons in comparison. But remember, learning and training should never end. Introduce new, more challenging behaviors and fun tricks. Learning new skills stimulates your puppies' brain and exerts energy.

  * Classes

Plan for a special night out for you and your pup each week to join an advanced training class or even a therapy dog class. Check out tricks, disc games, agility, scent detection, freestyle dancing, and more! There is no limit to the cool new things you and your 10-month puppy can learn together.

11-12 MONTH TRAINING

If your dog has a high energy level, teaching them to play sports (like fetch, fly ball or agility training) is a great way to expend energy so that your dog doesn't spend it chewing up your shoes and furniture.

Although your once squirmy puppy has reached adulthood, they'll still need refresher courses in training, physical and mental stimulation, and rules.

  * Much like human teenagers, adolescent pups use their newfound sense of independence to test their limits, which sometimes means acting out. While there may be occasional lapses in your puppy's behavior, your reactions should remain consistent, firm, and, most of all, patient. You may see further tests of dominance and ranking in the home around this time. Some misbehavior is normal as your dog explores her dominance in the pack, but it is essential to continue to be firm about where she ranks in the hierarchy.

  * Congratulations, you and your puppy have made it through the first year of puppyhood. It often thought of as the most challenging year of a dog's life, and we want to assure you that all the hard work and affection you put in is going to pay off for years to come!

  * Your pup still has a lot of energy that needs to use up with lots of exercises, mental stimulation, and training. So keep it up! Your dog will start to mellow out more and more each year. After about seven years old, your puppy will enter the Senior years, and you will notice a considerable slowdown.

    * TRAINING TIPS

  * Dogs want to be taken seriously and to be members of the family. Praise and positive reinforcement encourage loyalty, obedience, and willingness to cooperate. Each training session should end with a compliment — especially for a young dog. A dog that is left alone for extended periods may howl, whine, or bark continuously. Some may chew or damage the furniture. As a natural pack animal, she perceives being left alone as punishment. Being left alone can cause anxiety and diminishing trust in you. Howling is intended to restore community by voice contact — she wants to know if anyone is out there.

  * Most of us must work away from our homes or otherwise leave our beloved pets for periods during the day. The best way to cure her anxious behavior is through continuous training. At first, leave your dog alone in a room for a brief period, while you stay in a different place. Gradually, increase the separation time. Distractions, such as chew toys or background music, may calm her. She might go to sleep while you are gone, which will teach her it is OK to be by herself. Leave the house without a fuss so that your dog doesn't perceive this as a big deal and greet her warmly when you return. It may take your puppy two to three months to be comfortable alone. Allow more time and expect more setbacks for older dogs.

  * Much of this can avoid by crate training your puppy as early as possible. Dogs who are crate trained see the container as a safe den, where they can quietly relax. A box should never use as a punishment. You should put the container in a quiet place where she can see the family. Make sure that there is a dog-safe bed and perhaps a favorite toy for her to go to inside. You will soon know that she will go quietly into the crate to rest. You may close her in for short periods at first and gradually extend the duration. Eventually, you will be able to know that your dog is quiet and content in her crate while you are out of the room. Remember, you should never leave your dog crated for more than a few hours, but once she is successfully crate trained, the stress of separation should significantly reduce or gone altogether. If you must be out of the house for extended periods, you should consider a doggie daycare situation or babysitter for your young dog.

HOW TO TRAIN AN ADULT DOG

  * While most people associate training with puppies, the reality is that dogs can learn at any age. Adult dogs are often easier to train than young puppies because they have more self-control. It's also important to keep training your dog as it matures. It will keep your dog's mind sharp and offer the mental stimulation and structure that it needs. These tips used to train adult dogs that may need to gain new skills.

  * Keep training sessions relatively short to begin. A typical training program involves two daily sessions of 10 \- 20 minutes each.

  * Reinforce commands by asking the dog to "sit" before meals, or "stay" when you go to get his or her lead.

  * Use reward-based training methods. Reward-based training works on the principle of rewarding good behaviors so that the dog wants to repeat them to get a treat, while lousy behavior ignored, so the dog receives no benefit from it, and the action eventually stops as a result.

  * Learn how to use clicker training, as it is an excellent method for training dogs. The principle is to teach the dog to associate the click-clack of the clicker with a reward or treat. Then you give a cue word and use the clicker to mark the exact moment the desired behavior takes place, and then reward.

  * Do some research on dog training. Read books and articles about dog training, behavior, and psychology so that you understand how dogs think, which gives you a vital edge when training them.

  * Do not shout at or hit your dog. Be aware that scolding a dog rarely has a place in dog training. Dogs live in the present, and if you scold a dog, it just links the negativity.

  * Teach your dog to stay off the furniture. If your dog climbs on furniture or jumps on you without permission, tell it to get off in a scolding manner and praise it when it does.

  * Teach your dog to stay off people, even when it is exciting to see someone. To teach a dog to get down, use treats and commands, such as "off." If this doesn't help, use a canister of compressed air that has a motion trigger, in front of the furniture, so the dog gets a remote punishment when he goes to jump up.

  * Remember that you are training an adult dog that already has a lifetime of experiences. Training is a life-long process and something that should be ongoing no matter what the age of your dog.

  * Start teaching your adult dog the rules for your home as soon as possible.

  * Consider teaching your dog self-control, which requires your dog to behave appropriately before getting the desired treat, walk, or positive attention.

  * If you are patient and consistent with your training, your dog will become a fun and valued member of your family.

  * Taking the time to create a plan for training your dog is essential. Learn how a well-developed plan creates an opportunity to identify specific goals for you and your dog, which can focus on the training process and make it a success.

  * Functional training is essential to ensure a happy dog, and of course, content owners. When a dog is well trained, he can play a proper and meaningful part in the household, providing enjoyment and companionship.

  * Without the proper training and the appropriate training schedule, your pup will not be the dog that you have always hoped for, and to make matters worse, even the smallest of mistakes might have devastating results in the long run.

  * Dogs are a lot like us. They are intelligent, they learn, it adapts, it coexists with us, and they mimic us more and more with each passing day. And, just like in our case, education is of paramount importance. That said, a useful and timely knowledge will lead to a great upbringing and an outstanding dog.

#  Resources

### Associations and Organizations

Breed Clubs

American Kennel Club (AKC)

5580 Centerview Drive

Raleigh, NC 27606 Telephone:

(919) 233-9767

Fax: (919) 233-3627

E-mail: info@akc.org

www.akc.org

Canadian Kennel Club (CKC)

89 Skyway Avenue, Suite 100

Etobicoke, Ontario M9W 6R4

Telephone: (416) 675-5511

Fax: (416) 675-6506

E-mail: information@ckc.ca

www.ckc.ca

Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

Secretariat General de la FCI

Place Albert 1er, 13

B – 6530 Thuin

Belqique

www.fci.be

The Kennel Club

1 Clarges Street

London

W1J 8AB

Telephone: 0870 606 6750

Fax: 0207 518 1058

www.the-kennel-club.org.uk

United Kennel Club (UKC)

100 E. Kilgore Road

Kalamazoo, MI 49002-5584

Telephone: (269) 343-9020

Fax: (269) 343-7037

E-mail: pbickell@ukcdogs.com

www.ukcdogs.com

### Books

Anderson, Teoti. The Super Simple Guide to Housetraining. Neptune City: TFH Publications, 2004.

Morgan, Diane. Good Dogkeeping. Neptune City: TFH Publications, 2005.

Morgan, Diane. The Labrador Retriever. Neptune City: TFH Publications, 2005.

Yin, Sophia, DVM. How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves. Neptune City: TFH Publications, 2004.

"The Buccleuch Labrador." The Buccleuch Estates Limited. 2003. Archived from the original on 15 January 2007. Retrieved 13 September 2007.

Miller, Liza Lee; Cindy Tittle Moore (7 January 2004). "FAQ Labrador Retrievers." Puget Sound Labrador Rescue. Archived from the original on 25 August 2007. Retrieved 13 September 2007.

https://www.thelabradorsite.com/the-history-of-the-labrador-retriever/

The Labrador Retriever, Richard A Wolters, 1981.

Instructions to Young Sportsmen, Lt. Col Peter Hawker, 1833.

Digital Dean: Labradors of the Past and Present.

Larken Farms: Storm's Riptide Star.

Dog Fancy Magazine – 2010.

https://www.justlabradors.com/labrador-retriever-facts/origins-labrador-retriever

http://www.douglashistory.co.uk/history/families/dukes_of_buccleuch.html#.Xa1dIOgzbIU

Bannister, Jerry. "The Custom of the Country: Justice and the Colonial State in Eighteenth-Century Newfoundland." (Ph.D. Dissertation, University of Toronto, 1999).

Bannister, Jerry. "The Campaign for Representative Government in Newfoundland," Journal of the Canadian Historical Association. New Series 5 (1994), pp. 19-40.

Brown, George W., ed. Dictionary of Canadian Biography. Vol 1. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1966.

Browne, William J. And Now...Eighty-Seven Years a Newfoundlander: Vol. II, 1949-1965. St. John's: Dicks and Company Limited, 1984.

Chadwick, St. John, Newfoundland: Island into Province, Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1967.

Cuff, Robert D., ed. Dictionary of Newfoundland and Labrador Biography. St. John's: Harry Cuff Publications Ltd., 1990.

Des Voeux, George William. My Colonial Service. London: John Murray, 1903.

Dictionary of Canadian Biography. 13 vols. Toronto: Toronto University Press, 1974 - 1987.

Duff, Gordon. A Biographical Dictionary of the Governors of Newfoundland, St. John's: Duff, 1964.

Graham, Frank W., We Love Thee Newfoundland Vahalla Press: St. John's, 1979.

Gunn, Gertrude, The Political History of Newfoundland: 1832-1864. Buffalo: University of Toronto Press, 1977.

Hayne, David M., ed. Dictionary of Canadian Biography. Vol. 2. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1969.

Hiller, J.K., A Political History of Newfoundland, 1874-1901, Diss., University of Cambridge, 1971.

Hiller, James, and Peter Neary, eds. Twentieth-Century Newfoundland: Explorations. St. John's: Breakwater, 1994.

Hiller, James, and Peter Neary, eds. Newfoundland in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries: Essays in Interpretation. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1980.

Howley, M.F. Ecclesiastical History of Newfoundland. Belleville, Ont.: Mika Publishing Co., 1979.

Laughton, John Knox, "Glover, Sir John Hawley" Dictionary of National Biography. Vol.8 Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1993.

Poole, Cyril F., ed. Encyclopedia of Newfoundland and Labrador. Vols. III, IV, V. St. John's, Newfoundland: Harry Cuff Publications, 1991, 1993, 1994.

Prowse, D.W. A History of Newfoundland from the English, Colonial, and Foreign Records. Belleville: Mika Studio, 1972.

Simpson, Kieran, ed., Canadian Who's Who. Vol. 25. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1990.

Smallwood, Joseph R., ed., Book of Newfoundland. 6 vols. St. John's, NL: St. John's Book Publishers Ltd. (1967), 1975.

Smallwood, Joseph R., ed., Encyclopedia of Newfoundland and Labrador, Vols. I, II. St. John's, Newfoundland: St. John's Book Publishers (1967) Ltd., 1981, 1984.

Stephen, Sir Leslie, and Lee, Sir Sidney, eds. Dictionary of National Biography. 22 vols. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1993.

Stewart, W. Wallace, ed., Macmillan Dictionary of Canadian Biography. 3rd ed. Toronto: The Bryant Press Ltd., 1973.

Thompson, Fredric Fraser, "Glover, Sir John Hawley" Dictionary of Canadian Biography. Vol.11 (355-57) Toronto: Toronto University Press, 1979.

Thoms, J.R., ed., Newfoundland and Labrador Who's Who: Centennial Edition. St. John's: E.C. Boone Advertising Ltd., 1968.

  * https://dogsforlife.wordpress.com/2011/02/24/learning-what-a-dog-is-feeling/

 https://dogsforlife.wordpress.com/2011/05/03/my-easter-delight-vs-my-pointers-delight/

 https://dogsforlife.wordpress.com/2011/08/13/insight-on-the-life-of-a-stray-dog-aka-street-dog/

 https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/canine-corner/201303/which-emotions-do-dogs-actually-experience

### Magazines

AKC Family Dog

American Kennel Club

260 Madison Avenue

New York, NY 10016

Telephone: (800) 490-5675

E-mail: familydog@akc.org

www.akc.org/pubs/familydog

AKC Gazette

American Kennel Club

260 Madison Avenue

New York, NY 10016

Telephone: (800) 533-7323

E-mail: gazette@akc.org

www.akc.org/pubs/gazette

Dog & Kennel

Pet Publishing, Inc.

7-L Dundas Circle

Greensboro, NC 27407

Telephone: (336) 292-4272

Fax: (336) 292-4272

E-mail: info@petpublishing.com

www.dogandkennel.com

Dogs Monthly

Ascot House

High Street, Ascot,

Berkshire SL5 7JG

United Kingdom

Telephone: 0870 730 8433

Fax: 0870 730 8431

E-mail: admin@rtc-associates.freeserve.co.uk www.corsini.co.uk/dogsmonthly

# Hope you enjoyed reading this book as much as I enjoyed writing it 
