On 20th October 2018 I managed to summit free solo the peak in the Tatra Mountains I’ve dreamt about for a long time. I encourage you to watch a long, but lovely video of this trip. Exciting and thrilling moments are guaranteed :D
But first, let me say hello...
Right, let me say hello from the highest peak in the Carpathian Mountains
Quite a gorgeous view, isn’t it?
I walked that ridge, and it felt freaking awesome
You have to see it!
GERLACH, THE MARTIN’S ROUTE
THE BEGINNING
07:40 am, Łysa Polana (Polish-Slovak border)
The view is not good at the moment, however I hope it will get better
The ridge should be clear – at least it was on the (online) pictures.
There’s a chance it will be fine
Well guys, it’s clearing at last. The fog is retreating. I am surely above 1500 m, and the view is magnificent.
So far I’ve been walking in this fog
Litvorové pleso (Litworowy Staw, mountain lake)
11:30 am, Poľský hrebeň (Polski Grzebień, saddle), alt. 2200 m
THE MARTIN’S ROUTE

So this is how the start of the Martin’s route looks like
Quite nice, not many difficulties here
I hope it’ll clear
I might need to do a bit of rappelling from Litvorový štít (actually, from Velický štít).
Maybe I’ll manage to do without.
Well, the rock is not completely dry, I have to be careful
Great, I’m almost burning here. I’ll have to make a pit-stop soon.
Absolutely nothing to grip here...
Interesting...
It’s really too hot for me now
The holds are here
Even though the batteries are getting low, I’ll try to record this part at the ridge, which looks cool
OK, I think I have to go that way
And the fun is over...
OK, a decent part of the ridge ahead
I’ll record going through it. Or rather, trying to go through it :)
Hop, and we’ll go this way, and that way
The rock is dry, awesome
Geez, this actually looks like Ľadový kôň (Lodowy Koń, ridge)
I’ve been asked many times if my balls don’t bump against the rocks. They do, but you just have to live through this.
[ACTUALLY, NO ONE EVER ASKED ABOUT THAT XD]
Hard to find a good foothold
This way... and that way
OK, now it’s easy, but you must admit – THAT WAS MAD!
The clouds block the view, take away the landscapes, that’s really bad
The pirouette
The problem is, I can’t see everything here, and need to lean out a bit
Three points of contact (at least) – this is my principle
There you see, if one foot slips, you still have a strong grip by a hand and a second foot (or both hands)
It’s much more safer
You can hear my carabiners jingling, but I haven’t been using them by now (I would need them mostly for rappelling)
I’m running out of strength, my backpack is too heavy
I see a cool ridge ahead of me, splendid!
Beautiful...
Unfortunately, I don’t have the whole day, it’s October goddamit, and the sunset is quite early
Quite obviously, I’m walking in sneakers
Oh, here is the magic rappel. Yes, there are some knots
Velický štít, alt. 2318 m
It would be definitely safer to rappel
Actually, I could think of doing it, using a carabiner, lots of ropes here
BUT I DIDN’T FEEL LIKE MESSING WITH THE ROPE
Is it moving?
This is a good option for a handhold
It worked
Put a boot in the crack – I don't like it
It’s not comfortable, but sometimes you just have to do it
Are we doomed? Not necessarily
A traverse here, a crack there, but nothing to grip
At least the rock is dry, so I can afford to do it
Here's a crack
Yes, here's the hold :)
THE FEELING YOU GET WHEN YOU FIND A GOOD HOLD
A makeshift, now let’s search something for this hand
Frankly speaking, I don’t have much experience in climbing down on cracks, however – as you can see – I like to learn
OK, let’s go here
Awesome
GoPro bumping
Let’s figure out this crack
There's a nice step
Looks like a woodpecker, isn't it?
Hah, it cleared out. Hell yeah!
Guys, I’m displeased, because my GoPro battery is depleting much faster than I expected. I don’t want to rush because of that, but on the other hand, I would like to record as much as I can walking (or being killed by) this ridge.
As you can see, the view is magnificent (OK - not being killed by :))
OK, let’s go down a bit
Let’s go further – the view is still magnificent
The rappel I skipped looked like the hardest part of the route, so I think I have a big chance to finish it free solo (without any belaying)
Of course, that’s not a priority and I don’t assume I’ll do it. However, that would be a cool achievement. But I won’t hesitate to belay when I feel I have to.
Anybody tried going this part? OK, I’ll choose this option. A little fucked up, but at least I can grip here, so all right now.



I’m not sure if I should put some music here or leave my comments
The weather is good - slightly windy, cool, and not too much heat
The grips are not too good here
Traps everywhere...
I’m terribly thirsty, but I promised myself I’ll drink only I get to the peak
You know what I always dream of when climbing up or down? I would do anything for a cold beer now. Still I have to wait for it, as I’ll get to the mountain hut only after dark.


Here and there, let’s go up
Yeah, beautiful... This view is to die for
There is another peak I’m going to climb (I think so). Some other mountains and those clouds. God, I’m above the clouds!
This is so tiring, especially when you have to lug such a heavy backpack
Oh man, this is too big for me
Nice
Cool, I must say
Hey rock, don’t fall... Fuck, I’m getting out of here
Sorry for a nasty language, but this is how I feel at the moment, actually
Is there anything to grip here? Yes, sir!
OK, you just have to use power here
Hey guys! 
Such piles (cairns) show the trail, however there’s snow over there, so you have to be aware of wet rocks
Living on the edge, fuck 
I am not sure if I shouldn't go that way
It’s possible. But maybe I would be able to go through this way.
I thought there won’t be anything more interesting on this route, but this is a nice surprise
Yes! I’ve almost at the peak of this damn thing. That part was crazy.
OMG, how wonderful...
Litvorový štít, alt. 2423 m
Cool, let’s go further the main ridge of Tatra Mountains
Zadný Gerlach must be really close
OK, which way now? This way? OK, down here. Or that side. This looks good, let’s see.
3-finger hold, good thing
And here comes the ridge
This gap gives a nice view, and also a nice, chill wind
It’s a pity I cannot use GoPro from my head when I’m coming out from here, but the batteries ran out of power
It’s quite late now (2:40 pm), and there’s still quite a way to go, so I have to get myself together, even though I’m already a bit exhausted
I think I can see today’s final destination
Gerlach is appearing through the clouds
It would be nice to get there in 1h to 1h30. Keep your fingers crossed.
Wow, Gerlach is really a stone’s throw now
Zadný Gerlach, alt. 2616 m
The climbing was great. The view is magnificent, despite the clouds.
THAT RIDGE WAS AWESOME
Great, just let’s try to make it before the dark
I’m really happy
I’m on Tetmajerovo sedlo (Przełęcz Tetmajera, saddle), there’s approx. still 30 minutes to the summit, that way. I think it’ll clear out.
Spot the difference between the unlit side (icy, snowy – no way I’m going there) and the well-lit side (no snow, dry rock). Good I’ll be going down that side.
The last ascent
The ascent on the last peak I planned for today – from Tetmajerovo sedlo (saddle) to Gerlachovský štít (peak)
I don't know if I'll show the whole part
I hope it’ll clear. After all this effort with Zadný Gerlach
Yes, it’s a tough one
This way
Strong handholds...
Much better than the ones on Zadný, where I had to figure out much more
Oh dear, good that there’s no one down there. But wait, it’s Valov žľab (Walowy Żleb, colouir), f**k
Damn, it will surely fall soon
I could drop it to be sure it doesn’t fall on anyone, but I’m not sure if there’s nobody there
Nooo, I have to go this way
As they say – what an exposure!
That’s impressive, at least for me
A bit of snow
Pull up, pull away – oh yes, my knee is spared this time
It looks like summit ridge of the highest peak in the Carpathian Mountains is all for myself
And the Brocken spectre once again, second time today. I’m not sure if it counts.
This is the Brocken spectre – my shadow with a glory, just like an angel. I can wave to you.
Hey, it’s really magnificent, something absolutely beautiful
OK, the spectre is cool, but let’s proceed
As you probably guessed, the cross is exactly on the main peak
How wonderful
What a difference between the well-lit and unlit side, this is spectacular
This ridge is very comfortable and enjoyable. I was walking on much harder ones, actually.
Oh, and the spectre is still visible. A nice effect, rarely seen, but today it’s with me for a long time.
Now I’m really tired
I’m tempted to jump again
Unfortunately, you just have to use force here
And here it is - the summit cross!
3:50 pm, Gerlachovský štít, alt. 2655 m
TRIP TIME:
MARTIN'S ROUTE 4:20
FROM THE START 8:10
This is the beginning of the descent route from Gerlach via Batizovská próba (Batyżowiecka Próba), although it’s still some way to go there... There shouldn’t be much problems
There are chains, so it’s really fine
And actually, I didn’t hope for any of them - my research wasn’t perfect
They don’t look new
Those clouds look divine, but they also show that the weather tomorrow might be a bit worse than today
Too bad... I just have to sleep somewhere today, and return to Poland tomorrow... some way. 
I didn’t record my descending via Batizovský žľab (Batyżowiecki Żleb, colouir), as it wasn’t interesting at all
All right
I'll be in the valley soon
So that’s bullshit there’s nothing to grip here, look at this rock
Damn, no trip without hitting the rock with a camera
Like on an ordinary ladder
08:00 pm, Sliezsky dom (Śląski Dom, mountain hut)
Thanks for watching!
I hope you enjoyed it :)
If yes, feel free to like it. Please subscribe, so you won’t miss any of my future videos!
