The independent-minded Basques
are notorious
for being headstrong,
but as a culturally and
linguistically unique land
surrounded by bigger
and stronger nations,
the Basques have learned
to compromise
while maintaining
their identity.
Much unites the Spanish
and French Basque regions.
They both share a striking
Atlantic coastline,
with communities reaching
far into the Pyrenees.
They have the same flag,
similar folk music and dance,
and a common language, spoken by
about a half-million people.
And both, after some struggles,
have been integrated
by their respective nations.
The French Revolution quelled
French Basque ideas
of independence,
and in the 20th century,
Spain's general Franco attempted
to tame his own
separatist-minded Basques.
But in the last generation,
things are improving.
The long-suppressed Basque
language
is enjoying a resurgence,
and because the European Union
is interested
in helping small ethnic regions
as well as big countries,
the Basques are enjoying
more autonomy.
So, just who are
the Basques?
Sure, you can still find a few
beret-capped shepherds
that fit the traditional cliche,
but the vast majority of Basques
are modern
and relatively prosperous
city dwellers.
Widespread Spanish
and French immigration
has made it difficult to know
who actually has Basque
ethnic roots.
Locals consider anyone
who speaks
the Basque language
to be Basque.
If you know where to look,
Basque customs are strong
and lively,
perhaps nowhere more so than in
one of their favorite sports,
called "jai alai."
Players use a long wicker basket
to whip a ball,
smaller and far harder
than a baseball,
off walls at more than
150 miles per hour.
For less adrenaline,
but just as much Basque culture,
there's the institution of
the men's gastronomic club.
These clubs are common
throughout Basque country
and range from
the more working class
communal kitchen
type of place
to the fairly highbrow,
more exclusive version
with extensive wine cellars
and gastronomic libraries.
The club serves
several functions.
Traditionally, Basque society
is matrilineal,
women run the show at home.
These provide
a men's night out.
It's also a place
where friends
who've known each other
since grade school
can enjoy quality time together,
speaking Basque
and savoring traditional ways
in an ever faster world.
And it's a place where men
cook together
and celebrate the famed Basque
culinary traditions.
