 
Newbarn Farm Self Catering Cottages & Angling Centre

## Newbarn Farm, Finding the Elusive Carp

## Newbarn Farm 01803 553602

##  www.newbarnfarm.com

Finding the Elusive Carp

Simon Rogers

Smashwords Edition

Copyright 2010 Simon Rogers

## Contents

### Chapter 1: Simple Freshwater Biology

### Know what's going on down there

### Chapter 2: The Carp

### Come and meet the family

### Chapter 3: The Carp's External Features

### Gorgeous Beast

### Chapter 4: The Carp's Internal Features

### Beauty is not just skin deep

### Chapter 5: Carp Gear

### What the well dressed Carp Fisherman should never be seen without

### Chapter 6: The Carp Rod

### The definition of a good friend is one who says "here, take my rod, this bite feels like it's a big one"

### Chapter 7: The Reel

### A mechanism to move a body from here to there.

### Chapter 8: Alarms and indicators

### Devices to enable you to eat your sandwiches.

### Chapter 9: Rod rests, buzzers, bars & pods

### All useful devices

### Chapter 10: Line

### Learn about line

### Chapter 11: Bivvies & shelters

### Make sure your comfortable

### Chapter 12: Baiting up equipment

### You've got to know how to throw them

### Chapter 13: Carp care

### Small carp become big carp, so look after them

### Chapter 14: Carp care tackle

### Use them or lose them

### Chapter 15: Carp care again

### A step by step guide

### Chapter 16: Tactics

### Make sure you know before you go

### Chapter 17: Setting up your swim

### Be prepared

### Chapter 18: Accurate casting

### A step by step guide

### Chapter 19: Feature finding with rod & line

### An awesome skill to have in your armoury

### Chapter 20: Playing the fish

### Make sure you don't lose it

##  Introduction

### One of the topics most overlooked by modern-day carp anglers is knowledge of the species they are angling for. It's all well and good possessing a developed mind for bait, rigs, and tackle, but fundamentally, the angler will fail in many ways if he doesn't fully understand the target fish. A fish is not just a fish, as all will differ in many ways.

### This book seeks to address some of the important characteristics of the carp and how it survives in its favored habitat of the freshwater rivers and still waters.

### Use the information wisely to plan your tactics for your chosen venue. Before we look at the fish themselves, however, it is important to know a little about the world in which they live. Remember that freshwater fish have a very simple existence in that all they require for a happy life is food, oxygen and a mate with whom to reproduce.

### Please be aware that all this information is available on the web and can easily be accessed by the determined browser, it is not meant to be a definitive article but simply information to assist anyone who seeks it.

### It was written by a commission on Elance and I thank all who made the effort to make this available, both known and unknown, to the Carp Fisher Person who would like to start off on the right foot.

## Simple Freshwater Biology

## Or "know what is going on down there!"

### Many of you will have heard of the food chain in past biology classes at school, but if you were anything like us, you will have spent most of the lesson time daydreaming of being out on the banks instead of inside a stuffy classroom.

### Basically, the food chain is the name given to the way superior animals feed upon lesser animals lower down the chain. Man is said to be at the top of the food chain, but each and every link is important as, if one were missing, a natural balance would not be reached so animals higher up the chain would suffer.

### So where does the animal at the bottom of the chain get its food? The answer to this question is that light and heat energy from the sun together with various chemicals, such as phosphates and nitrates in the water, create the part of the chain known as photosynthesis, which allows plants to grow.

### Once plant life is established, animals will also be able to survive. The carp, in common with all other fish, takes oxygen from the water through its gills in order to breath. The gills are situated just behind the head of the fish and are protected by bony plates called gill covers.

### The fish breathes by taking water into its mouth with its gill covers closed. Then it closes its mouth, opens its gill covers and raises the floor of the mouth, forcing water out over the gills. The gills themselves contain very fine blood vessels which allow oxygen to pass through their outer membrane and into the blood stream.

### As an illustration of how effective this system is, consider that the air we breathe has an oxygen content of approximately 21 per cent, whereas water contains only 0.001 per cent oxygen at 8°C.

### Photosynthesis is another word you may recall from biology lessons. Basically, this is the process whereby green plants take in carbon dioxide and sunlight and produce simple sugars, releasing oxygen into the water in the process.

### This is obviously useful to know, as it is only during the daylight hours that the green plants are oxygenating the water. At night the opposite is the case, with the plants taking oxygen out of the water and releasing carbon dioxide back in.

### Furthermore, the water temperature also makes a difference to the amount of oxygen it contains - the warmer the water, the lower the dissolved oxygen content.

### So what does all of this mean?

### Well, we know that carp require a certain amount of oxygen to survive and we also know that oxygen gets into the water via a number of different ways (wind action, pressure changes, etc), but we can also draw the conclusion that, at certain times of the year (for example summertime), certain parts of the lake will have more dissolved oxygen than others.

### The shallows, where the water is warmer, will have less dissolved oxygen than the cooler parts of the lake. Also, the weed beds at night will be taking oxygen out of the water and replacing it with carbon dioxide.

### The shallow margins, especially those with reedbeds and weed, may therefore become depleted of oxygen during a warm summer night, so fishing in these areas during this time may not be productive.

### It is vitally important to note here that if you intend to sack a fish for the

### night in summer, from a fish welfare point of view, it must be away from weed and reedbeds in a reasonable depth of water.

### In the daytime, it is best to sack fish in the shade if possible, but really there should be no need to sack a fish during the day.

## The Carp

## Or "Come & meet the family!"

###  Background

### Although a very popular sporting fish, the carp accounts for a huge percentage of the annual aquaculture production around the world.

### The carp is a native of the Caspian Sea and its distribution is widely associated with the Romans. It is a hardy fish, and tolerant of a wide variety of environmental conditions – it can survive pH levels as low as 5 and as high as 10.

### It is classed as a warm-water fish and begins feeding reasonably well at a water temperature of 10°C, with its optimum growth occurring at around 25°C.

### Cyprinus carpio is found in five main genetic varieties, namely the wild, common, mirror, linear and leather carp.

### Wild Carp

### The wild carp is the original form of carp and its distribution around the world can be traced back thousands of years. All of the carp mentioned below are mutations of this fish and have evolved through the continued crossbreeding practices of fish farmers.

### The wild carp is very long and streamlined in appearance and very rarely grows above the weight of 101b. It is distinguished by its slender flanks and the lack of a 'hump' towards the top of the head.

### The fish is stronger, possesses 20 per cent more red blood cells and has a higher blood sugar level than the domesticated carp. Although originally widely distributed, the fish is not commonly found in our waters today.

### Common Carp

### The common carp, as we know it, is the nearest descendant of the wild carp. Fundamentally speaking, the common carp is genetically different to the 'wildie' through the possession of an inherited recessive trait connected to growth.

### When compared with the mirror, leather and linear types of carp, depending on the environment it is subjected to, the common carp has been scientifically proven to have the best growth rate (rate meaning increase and not potential size).

### All of the other types are mutations of the common and this is the main reason why most common carp live longer, are hardier and have very few deformities when compared with the others.

### Mirror Carp

### The mirror carp was the first mutation of the common carp and its formation is related to two alternative forms of genes, known as the 'S' and the 'N' alleles.

### Both alleles are paired and may possess a major and a minor version (the minor is recessive). The genetic term for the mirror carp is 'ssnn' (all minor). The actions of the 's' (minor) and the 'N' (major) genes in carp have an effect on a wide scope of traits besides scaling and this is the reason why the mirror carp often has fewer soft rays in the dorsal, ventral and pelvic fins than the common and wild carp.

### As with all carp, the mirror possesses a number of other genes which account for the fish's body length, mouth positioning, scale pattern and so on, and this is where the terms 'race' and 'strain' have become widely intertwined. Certain mirror carp have been scientifically proven to be capable of attaining higher weights than commons, leathers and linears, and once again, this is related to genetics.

### Leather Carp

### If you look very carefully at a picture of the leather carp it possesses a few scales and some people may think this makes it a mirror carp. Scientifically, however, a leather carp can possess a few scales, with the principal difference being that the dorsal row of scales is either absent or, if it is present, it is not continuous, showing breaks.

### Scales are small and absent altogether from the head up to the start of the dorsal fin. Leathers have reduced growth when compared with the commons and mirrors because they have fewer red blood cells.

### This means the fish also requires a higher volume of oxygen to fill itself up when feeding. The true leather carp is not as hardy as the other varieties and, as well as having fewer dorsal spines than the other types, it frequently shows genetic kink / deformities in its fins.

### Linear Carp

### True linear carp have a single row of scales along the lateral line - any variance to this signifies another genetic classification of carp. Like leather carp, linears have restricted maximum growth potential.

### Generally, both types also grow more slowly than the mirrors and commons

### (when from the same strain). Another classic feature of the linear and leather carp is their more intensive fat metabolism. Fat amasses more quickly in both types during the summer time and is also utilized in greater amounts during the winter.

### The delayed growth of the linear and leather carps is often related to the reduced amount of gill organs / rakers in the fish as well as the decreased number of pharyngeal teeth they possess - both types have two rows (sometimes only one) compared with the three rows of the common and mirror types.

## The Carp's External Features

## "Gorgeous Beast"

### Fins

### The carp possesses a number of fins to help it to yaw, pitch, or roll. There are two sets of paired fins known as the pectoral and pelvic fins, whilst all others are singular.

### Both paired sets assist with vertical and horizontal control, whilst the dorsal and anal fins help with balance. The tail fin is the most important fin of a fish as this helps with sudden bursts of speed so it can avoid danger and thus survive within the aquatic environment.

### However, a carp can survive without the use of its fins, and it is not uncommon to come across healthy fish that do not possess a full set.

### Olfactory Senses

### Situated on the dorsal surface of the snout are the olfactory sensors (the nose). The nostril opening is double, and the water enters via the anterior opening and leaves via the posterior opening; the flow of currents is generated by the swimming action of the fish.

### Inside the organ there are millions of tiny hairs that assist with chemoreception. There is very little scientific data about chemoreception in king carp, but in the case of the goldfish (Carassius auratus), a close relative, recordings of activity carried out by electro-olfactograms show that the fish can detect four definite olfactory stimulants: bile salts, steroids amino acids and prostaglandins.

### Amino acids will function as feeding stimulants, whereas prostaglandins and steroids will act as sex pheromones in the breeding season. Chemoreception in king carp is thought to be very similar to the goldfish.

### The Gustatory System

### The gustatory system is basically the taste organ of the fish. Within carp, the mouth is said to be the main gustatory organ.

### The main taste buds known as the palatal organ, are located in the roof of the mouth. However, the lips, barbells, gill rakers and pectoral fins all carry taste buds of some sort.

### The gustatory organ is sensitive to sour, sweet, saline and savory substances, and is incredibly sensitive compared to that of the human. There is a limited gustatory response to amino acids or nucleotides in carp, but in particular orders both can be excellent feeding stimulants.

### The Eyes

### The carp's eyes are located on either side of the head to give an excellent field of vision; they are very sensitive to movement. However, they do not offer the fish a good binocular vision.

### The carp's eye operates very much like a camera, and rays of light are focused onto the retina by the lens. According to scientists, fish see within an angle of 97.6 degrees and can see in a circular window when looking above the water.

### Outside the window, images are reflected off the water surface onto the bottom, which is why fish have difficulty viewing items on the bottom during

### strong winds. Carp are thought to possess photoreceptors which have enhanced sensitivity to capture photons (solar radiation components) at low light levels, but in the main, they are said to have trichromatic vision with visual pigments absorption peaks of approximately 455nm (blue), 530nm (green), and 625nm (red) - this means that the fish sees better in depths of less than 25m. Deeper than this, the carp is thought to see in the blue light spectrum, although biotic and abiotic factors can influence this.

###  Mechanoreceptors

### All carp possess an acoustic-lateralis system. The mechanoreceptors are located in this system, comprising the ear and lateral line, which work in co-ordination with one another.

### The neuromast is the basic mechanoreceptor and this consists of a group of sensory hair cells which help the fish to locate water movements and direction, as well as to co-ordinate balance.

### It basically operates by causing vibrations in the fish which allow it to detect sound as well as potential dangers - such as those projected by outboard motors or echo sounders. Although the ears of carp are hidden, the lateral line is often very distinct on mirrors, leathers and linear carp.

### Scales

### The carp's skin comprises two different layers - an inner (dermis) and an outer (epidermis). All scales grow from within the inner layer and are protected by a layer of mucus.

### Both layers act as major defences for the carp against infection. It is possible for fish to lose scales naturally or through bad handling by anglers, and they will normally grow back.

### However, anglers should try to minimize any possible damage by wetting weighing equipment prior to use and having a bottle of antiseptic solution, such as Klin-ik, handy.

## The Carp's Internal Features

## Or "Beauty is not just skin deep"

### The Skeletal Structure

### The carp is a member of the teleosts, a sub-group of the bony fish, and it possesses a skeletal structure throughout its whole body.The most obvious parts of the internal skeleton are the dorsal and central vertebrae, and it is to the latter of these that some of the most important internal organs are attached.

### Surrounding the internal organs are ribs; very often, protruding ribs on the sides of the fish are incorrectly claimed to have been caused by anglers, when in actual fact most are genetically evolved.

### Nevertheless, the shape of the skeletal structure may be down to any one of a number of reasons (very often you will come across fish that have developed deformities at the egg-hatching stage).

### The Swim Bladder

### Aside from the use of the fins, carp, and indeed all bony fish, can regulate their depth in the water column by using their swim bladder.

### The swim bladder is basically a gas-filled sack above the intestine. It helps the fish to reduce the amount of energy it expends, and is filled with air from the surface in the first few weeks of the fish's life (known as the swim-up stage).

### Carp have been known to survive perfectly well without the assistance of the

### swim bladder.

### The Kidney

### The carp has a number of internal organs to help it to survive in the aquatic environment.

### It is a cold-blooded creature, so its internal temperature is always in balance with that of the surrounding water. Internally, the carp's bodily fluids contain large amounts of salt, so the kidney, its most vital organ, is continually flushing out water which has traveled via osmosis into the fish.

### If you make your own boiled baits always watch the amount of salt you use - any exertion of the carp's kidney may lead to possible damage, resulting in the fish swelling or bursting through taking in too much water.

### The Heart

### The carp's heart lies just below the gill cover (known as the operculum) and pumps blood around the body.

### The blood is pumped in a single circulation and absorbs oxygen from the water in the gills. Here, the blood passes through capillaries (fine blood cells) which have a very thin wall.

### As the water is drawn over the gill capillaries, oxygen is drawn from the water. Smaller fish breathe (so to speak) at a quicker rate than larger fish, and this is one reason why the smaller inhabitants of a water are normally the first to be lost during times of pollution.

### The Intestine

### The carp does not have a stomach but instead has a very long intestine, where its food is broken down by enzymes.

### The carp's diet is very varied (it is omnivorous) so the intestine needs to cope with both meat and weed products.

### Weed generally requires more mastication by the fish and takes longer to digest (due to the large number of cells it possesses), and this is why the intestine is so long.

### Within the intestine, which starts directly behind the oesophagus, powerful digestive juices assist with the passage of food.

### The reaction caused by digestion is usually alkaline (pH 7-7.7); recent experiments have shown that the pH level fluctuates depending on the temperature of the water.

### Pepsin (an essential protein-digesting enzyme) is not found naturally in the carp, but has to be gained by the fish through its food sources.

### Feeding

### The carp will sample most food items with its lips, which are equipped with minute receptors. If the item is found attractive, it will pass to the carp's throat teeth before ingestion. The pharyngeal teeth are located behind the mouth proper and comprise between one and three rows of teeth, depending on the type of carp.

### These will crush food items with the assistance of a pad in the palate of the mouth, and these do wear out with time and excessive use.

### Besides the lips and teeth, the carp also possesses a bronchial system which

### filters out minute particles from the water (comprised of branchiospines, branchial arches and bronchial apertures).

### Generally speaking, small young fish have a finer and better developed bronchial system than larger carp, but both are capable of feeding on suspended particles like branchiopods (such as Daphnia hyalina, Simocephalus vetalus, and so on), ostracods (such as Cyprus), and copepods (for example Cyclops, Diaptomus castor).

### Growth

### The genetic make-up of a carp and its available resources determine how big a fish will grow.

### There is a traditional saying amongst fish breeders that a 'quality food source results in a quality fish'.

### Fed the correct diet in a relaxed environment, three-year-old carp can reach a weight of well over 5lb.

### The carp's optimum growth rate is reached at approximately 25°C, with potential size decreasing progressively from 20°C, virtually ceasing at 5°C.

### Female carp usually show the greater sudden increases in weight, but these fish are often in a stressed state due to ovulation.

### It is the males that have the solid but steady growth potential, and it is these fish that often live the longest.

### Habitat

### Carp can adapt to both relaxed and stressed river and lake environments.

### They are widely regarded as a territorial species, but within river networks it is not unusual for them to travel long distances to feed or spawn.

### The type of habitat a fish is subjected to usually dictates its physical characteristics.

### Very often fish in rivers become long and lean to accommodate the water currents, whereas in the lakes and stillwaters they are often fatter and deeper in body section.

Habitat also has a huge influence on the growth potential of a carp, as its availability is very much associated with water quality and stocking densities, which in turn, are connected to available food.

## Carp Gear

## Or "No well dressed Carp fisherman would be seen without it!"

### The amount of tackle available to catch carp successfully is growing annually. There are now literally hundreds, if not thousands, of different companies in the market place advertising equipment for sale.

### This has both its good and bad points, but it is worth pointing out that one of the most difficult things for any newcomer to the sport is avoiding being drawn into buying everything that is financially possible.

### You do not need every single item of tackle, and a lot of the time you can get away with making some of the simpler items for yourself, thus saving more money.

### Many of you may find yourselves lost amongst the large array of modern carp fishing tackle, and indeed many of you will find it a very tedious job deciding what tackle best suits your needs.

### Although the majority of tackle shops are excellent at advising you when purchasing the right tackle for your first steps in carp fishing, one cannot help thinking that in some cases beginners are seen as easy pickings for a good sale.

### In the next chapters we take an in-depth look at the kind of tackle required for modern carp fishing, from the more complicated aspects such as rod choice right through to the technicalities of bait boats.

### But never forget, all the modern wizzo, technological, gimmicky, new to the market, must have gadgets are no substitute for research / knowledge into

### the place your going to fish and research and knowledge into what your fish wants from you and it environment.

## The Carp Rod

## The definition of a good friend is one who says "Here, take my rod, this bite feels like it's a big one"

###  Terminology

### What is a carp rod? Fundamentally speaking, it is a tool used for playing a fish, but it also has the secondary function of casting a bait. Advancements in technology have delivered to today's angler a vast range of carp rods. A simple browse through the adverts reveals a maze of pictures and words of how all are far superior to one another. Try not to lose yourself amongst such marketing hype, as it is a safe bet that many of those advertised are way above the price range you actually need to spend to fulfill your needs. Don't be too disheartened by this, as we can assure you that the Rod Hutchinsons of the world all started with very basic tackle. Before we take a look at selecting a rod and its functions, we will begin with a brief glossary of terms:

### Action: Describes the performance of a carp rod with regard to its flexibility or stiffness.

### Blank: Used to describe the carp rod before the reel fittings, rings and final varnish (known as the finish) are added.

### Butt end: The thickest end of the rod (the handle).

### Tip end: The thinnest end of the rod (the top eye).

### Test curve: The weight needed to pull the tip end of the rod down till it is at right angles to the butt end. The heavier the weight needed, the stiffer the rod.

### Tip action or stiff rod: A rod that is more flexible towards the tip end and better for casting long distances.

### Through action or soft rod: A rod that is very flexible throughout and better for playing fish.

###  Construction

### The Blank

### Most carp rods consist of two parts - the butt section (lower part) and the tip section (upper part). However, it is possible to purchase some that are divided into three or four parts (for storage purposes), and even ones that are telescopic. Two-part rods are usually the preferred option for general angling by most anglers as they are said to have less weaknesses in the blank than those with more sections. Wherever a section joins another, you will come across either a spigot or over-fit connection. Both types are suitable for carp rods, but we prefer the spigot fitting. Before purchasing a rod, always check this area for any damage as it is a sure thing that it will crack if it is not 100 per cent sound.

### A carp rod can be made from a number of different materials, the most successful being cane, and carbon A number of other materials can be added to these to aid with strength and to reduce thickness and weight. To minimize confusion we will stick to the simple terms listed above. As far as cost is concerned, fibreglass rods are the cheapest. Although you might think cane would be a very cheap material, rods made from it have recently become very few and far between and so the price of some cane rods has risen accordingly. Carbon fibre is a moderately cheap and extremely versatile material. Understandably it has dominated the carp rod field since its discovery, and is widely regarded as the best foundation for carp rod blanks.

### A good carp rod will be made from a relatively thin blank, measuring from as little as just over half an inch (12mm) thick at the butt end and tapering down to the tip.

### Reel Fittings, Grips and Rod Rings

### Once you have chosen your blank, you can start adding the reel fittings, grips and rings. The type and the positioning of these are just as important as the type and length of the blank itself. Always look to purchase a rod equipped with what is termed a screw-lock reel fitting (the part that holds the reel). Most modern carp rods have this type of fitting, but pay close attention to the standard of this area when purchasing a rod. The last thing you want to happen is for your reel to come loose when the all-important 'take' occurs. Our favourite reel fittings are those that have aluminium or stainless sleeves over the top, but to be honest, there are plenty of good makes available on the market. Those with metal sleeves not only perform well, but also enhance the attractiveness of the rod.

### Moving onto handles and grips, these usually consist of cork or sponge (Duplon) attachments, and should be chosen to suit your personal preference. There is no real difference from an angling perspective between the two varieties other than that Duplon is soft, doesn't become brittle with time and, unlike cork, won't be nibbled by mice! It doesn't really matter which type you choose, but do make sure that it provides you with enough grip when you decide to put the rod through its paces. Although it may sound obvious, it is worth stressing here that you should always pick up a rod and ensure that the positioning and distance between each grip feels comfortable. If the distance is too short or too long, your casting ability will be severely restricted. The same can be said for incorrect positioning, as this will make the rod feel unbalanced.

### As far as the rings are concerned, carp rods usually have anything between six and ten rings. These come in a range of different sizes, with the largest at the butt section, tapering down to the smallest at the tip end. Rods designed for long-range casting have larger and fewer rings to help reduce friction, while soft through-action rods have more and smaller eyes to help with control when playing fish under the tip. The type, quality, and position of the rod rings is important for a number of reasons. Single-leg eyes are more suited to long-range casting as they can be positioned to allow a fluent pathway for the line, whilst the quality and make of the rings can also have an impact on the distance you cast and the risk of line damage occurring. For obvious reasons, incorrect positioning of the eyes can affect the performance of a rod in a big way, so always check the whipping and whether or not the location of the eyes provides a flowing pathway. Their distribution along the blank also needs careful consideration as the rod will not perform well when put through the test curve if the rings are incorrectly spaced. The rings should be spaced more widely towards the butt end of the rod, tapering down to the tip. There is no use in giving precise spacing distances for the rings, as not only is rod technology a complicated science, but the suggested distancing will differ depending on the type and make of the blank. If you wish to get that knowledge in-depth, may we suggest you consult one of the major rod manufacturers.

### Modern rods tend to have SIC (silicon carbide) rings because they reduce friction on the line and thus enhance casting. However, such rings add greatly to the price of the rod, so always consider the type of fishing you are going to be doing before you buy. We must point out, though, that SIC rings are a must if you tend to use braided lines, as the friction applied to the rings when playing a fish on this material is so great that it frequently cuts into and damages standard/ cheap rings.

### Carp Rod Selection

### Now that we have taken a brief look at what a carp rod comprises, we can finish off with a brief summary of what to look for and what to avoid when deciding to purchase. Remember that the carp rod is the angler's main piece of kit and it will not come cheap.

### The width of the handle should be such that you feel comfortable and in control of the rod.

### The reel seat should have a screw lock mechanism.

### A two-piece rod between 1 ½ lb and 2lb in test curve is ideal for close-range casting (up to 70yd).

### A rod between 2lb and 2 ¾ lb in test curve would be ideal for multi-range casting.

### A rod 2 ¾ lb and over in test curve would be ideal for casting at long range.

### Check rods for scratches and loose fittings, and examine the join to ensure it is a comfortable fit and has been made to suit.

### You do not need to buy matching pairs of rods; it won't make you a better angler if all your rods are the same.

### Look out for second-hand rods that are in good condition, or discontinued ranges of rods.

### Choose a rod with a height and weight suited to your abilities, technique and physique; it may be a good idea to try to have a cast with one of your friends rods before you buy your own. Other than this, try to get a 'feel' for the rod and make sure that it is not too heavy, short, long, or uncomfortable.

### Don't get drawn into buying the first rod you see.

### You do not need to buy top-of-the-range rods to be successful.

We would always advise the complete novice to opt for a through-action rod first in order to get the feel of a carp rod and its use. It is useless trying to start off with a stiff rod, as these are really designed for casting rather than playing fish.

## Reels

## Or "A mechanisn to move a body from there to here!"

### Before buying a reel, the first thing you should do is consider what you want it for.

### You may have read a lot about Shimano Big Pit Long Cast reels, but if you are only fishing a 2-acre lake where the margins are the most productive areas then the asking price may be a bit steep, especially if you can get away with something a lot cheaper and much more practical.

### The moral is, always buy the correct tools for the job. Reels are expensive; try to use a bit of foresight and consider where you will be fishing over the next few seasons before you buy. It would be a waste of your hard-earned cash to buy something that will do for now, but may be woefully inadequate in twelve months' time. A good all-round reel is the best bet both practically and financially.

### Not only should you consider what you want the reel for, you should also take into account the rod it will be matched to. We don't mean looks here, we mean balance.

### A large-spooled big pit reel would be completely out of balance on an lift l ½ lb test curve fibreglass rod - as indeed would a small baitrunner reel, such as a Shimano GT 5010, on a 13ft 3 ½ lb test curve rod.

### The best way to make sure you don't make a mistake is to buy your rod and reel at the same time, or, if you already have a satisfactory rod and just want to upgrade your reel, take the rod along with you to the tackle shop and ask them to attach it to the reel so you can check that you are happy with its feel.

### This can also save further disappointment if you get your new reel home only to find it won't go into the rod's fittings, which can happen.

###  Terminology

### Spool: The part of the reel that holds the line.

### Coned spool: A spool where the front of the spool is narrower than the back to assist long-range casting.

### Clutch/drag: Tensioning mechanism on a reel which puts pressure on the spool to stop line being pulled from it.

### Anti-reverse: Switch/gear on the reel that stops the handle going backwards.

### Bale arm: The metal bar on the front of the reel that collects and lays the line when the handle is turned.

### Standard Fixed-Spool Reels

### These are a slightly bigger version of the average reel used by everyday coarse/match fishermen.

### They have an anti-reverse button on them to stop the reel handle from turning backwards and also a drag control known as the clutch.

### This allows line to be pulled from the reel without the bale arm being open, but the clutch has to be tightened up before reeling in.

### These reels are fine for standard, relatively close-in work such as stalking, but are somewhat outdated for modern style static carp fishing as well as tricky to come to terms with if you are a beginner.

### Although they are relatively cheap, opt for the baitrunner or big pit-type reel.

###  Baitrunners

### These are almost identical in shape to fixed-spool reels, but have a mechanism on them which allows a fish to take line without the bale arm open - known as the baitrunner.

### This can be engaged immediately by the flick of a button or can be turned off by reeling in line or flicking a lever. Baitrunners have been designed for modern specimen hunting, and therefore some models are larger than the standard fixed-spool reels and much more suited to the carp angler. They are by far the most practical for all-round carp fishing, as, loaded with the correct line and matched with a decent rod, the larger models will allow the angler to cast in excess of 120yd.

### To boot, they are also suitable for soft rods and margin fishing.

### Besides baitrunners, such reels are also commonly known as free-spool or bite 'n' run reels.

### Our preference is for the Shimano GT Baitrunner, which comes in a variety of sizes, but, as with most items of tackle these days, it isn't exactly cheap.

### Don't worry, if you don't have or can't afford one of the purpose-designed Baitrunners, though, as a standard reel will do the trick just as well: they just aren't quite so easy to use.

### Big Pit Reels

### Although these reels can be used at a variety of distances, they are ideally suited for the angler whose fishing is usually done at a range in excess of 150yd.

### They are very small-bodied, large-spooled reels that carry a huge amount of line.

### The clutch/drag is adjusted at the front of the reel to play fish, and the spool

### is shaped like a cone with the front narrower than the back so that line can easily pour off on the cast or when boating the baits out.

### These reels are best avoided by beginners, as it is unlikely they will be fishing at a distance where one is required.

### The best advice we can give to the starter is to learn the trade on the much easier-to-handle reels mentioned above rather than on the tricky big pit reels.

### These reels are designed for a specific purpose and will set you back a tidy sum.

### If you're going to be fishing the big French reservoirs, though, such as Chantecoq, Orient, then you will need a full set to fish effectively.

### There's not a great deal more to say about reels other than that there is more to a reel than just casting out and reeling fish in.

### You have a clutch to control the tension of the line as it is pulled off the reel, something which you should always check before you start fishing.

### Do this by closing the bale arm and pulling the line. If you cannot pull any line off the spool try turning the clutch setting half a turn (it will be located on the front or back of the reel), until you can pull line off the spool using reasonable pressure. If you can pull it off too easily tighten the clutch setting up a bit.

### You don't want it too slack or you'll never reel in and almost certainly give the fish you may be playing an all-important advantage. By setting the drag on your reel correctly you will be less at risk of losing a fish if it makes a fast, powerful run. As with many things associated with carp fishing, this is where experience plays a vital role.

### At this point it is worth mentioning quickly the subject of line twist. This is something that has come to light in recent years through the overuse / misuse of baitrunners and the clutch.

### Simply put, line pulled from the reel under the tension of the baitrunner/ clutch causes it to twist and coil when retrieved. The worst twist is created when boating baits out long distance with the baitrunner / clutch engaged.

### Whilst the tension on the line created in this way does somewhat help boating baits out, it is much better to open the bale arm and get a friend to hold the line under tension with his hand.

### Line leaving the spool with the bale arm open does not create line twist. Some of you may be wondering what the problem is with line twist. The answer is that the line can coil around the rings during casting, as well as become weakened when put under heavy tension. Avoid it.

### Alarms and indicators

### Or "Devices to enable you to eat your sandwiches"

### Alarms

### In the good old days at the beginning of carp fishing, bite indication was no more complicated than the movement of a piece of silver paper, a twig, or a washing-up bottle top on the line near the reel. There is nothing to say that these methods will not work today, but as with everything else, technology advances and there have been a number of improvements which the angler today would be stupid not to take advantage of.

### The main breakthrough is that of the electronic bite alarm or buzzer, which, in its youth, was no more than an antenna around which the line was placed and which buzzed when a fish pulled the line. Nowadays, most electronic bite alarms work on a roller / sensor principle: the line is placed across a roller / sensor, which, when moved, breaks an electric circuit and bleeps when the line is pulled.

### Some of the more traditional anglers refuse to accept electronic buzzers as part of their kit, but we believe buzzers serve an important dual purpose for the modern carp angler. Not only do they let you know when a fish has picked up your bait, they also allow you to watch the water instead of your indicator.

### Here's a look at some of the different types of alarms on the market today (roughly in order of price).

### Bitech Viper: An economy alarm with tone, volume and on / off switch. Some find this model can be sensitive in wind.

### Bitech Micro: Another alarm from Bitech with volume, tone and sensitivity controls. Very small and effective, a favorite of the two models from Bitech. Works on a roller principle. Highly recommended.

### Optonic XL: A very good roller wheel alarm which is moderately priced. It is equipped with an on/off button, both a run and delay LED, as well as a tone and volume control.

### The only problem with this alarm is that you need to take it apart to change the battery as well as the sensitivity, which is a bit awkward. Although it is reasonably priced, it requires extra additions to upgrade it to those below.

### Fox Micron SX: One of the newer wave of alarms, with volume, tone and sensitivity controls. There have been plenty of good reports about it.

### It is another of the many roller-wheel types. There is a mini version of this alarm available which is proving to be very popular due to its budget price.

### Fox Micron RX: Digital The top of the range from the Fox stable, and certainly an alarm that comes well recommended. It works on the same principle as the Micron SX, but has the added advantage of a remote receiver facility (not to be abused by wandering too far away from your rods).

### This alarm also distinguishes between lifts and drop-backs, which can be very useful in some situations.

### Delkim: The new alarm from Delkim has the same features as the other modern alarms above as well as a line diameter control for when you use thick or thin lines. It can be used with a remote if necessary as well as adjusted to suit both windy and calm conditions.

### It possesses a sensor board which indicates both line movement and vibration. Another excellent choice.

###  Indicators

### As well as an alarm, you will need something which creates tension on the line to indicate which way the fish is running. The way to approach the topic of indicators in a guide of this sort would be to take a look at their history, their specific uses, and also some of the more up-to-date versions.

### It is worth pointing out here that it is important to know why you need something and exactly what it is designed to do before you use it. Far too many anglers buy and use an item of tackle purely for the sake of keeping up with the latest trends rather than because it is the correct tool for the job.

### Besides, it's very easy to get confused between the various different types of indicators on the market, such as swingers and springers, hangers and wangers, wisps and wasps - they all sound very similar, but are in fact quite different and each is suited to different angling situations.

### Hanger-Style Bobbins

### In the age-old days of the sixties, when carp fishing was in its infancy, anglers used to use washing-up bottle tops, which were hung onto the line between the butt ring and the reel. These were the first hanger-style indicators and, of course, came free with a bottle of washing-up liquid.

### They were lightweight and served the purpose of indicating a bite when the line was pulled tight by the carp. In those days, before the bolt rig was widely used, anglers fished for twitches or slow, steady takes. They wanted as little restriction on their lines as possible and bottle tops were ideal.

### As the carp became wise to the rigs of the day, a new indicator was needed. Things progressed rapidly and the 'monkey climber' was born. This was a heavier bobbin indicator that was threaded onto a metal pin on which it slid up and down.

### The main advantage of a monkey climber over a simple bobbin was that it did not swing around in the wind as much as a light bobbin and thus reduced false indications. Later on, bobbins became bigger and heavier so that they were able to register drop-backs more easily. There was a problem with monkeys, though, as they were not as free-running as a hanging bobbin.

### There was a lot of friction between the so-called 'monkey' and the pin, especially when it had been raining and grit had found its way onto the pin. In winter they even used to freeze to the pin! Monkeys were subsequently dispensed with and other, more modern methods of indicator used.

### As far as the standard hanging bobbins are concerned, Gardner do an excellent model called the Rangemaster, which has removable weights for adjustment between long- and short-range fishing.

### Fox sell a Lightweight Hanger, a Carp Hanger and an Adjusta Hanger, all fairly cheap. Solar also sell a decent one called a Dangler, which is a little cheaper than the others. Hanging bobbins are a good type of indicator to use at short to medium range when the weather isn't too windy.

### They are not restricted to moving vertically, nor in an arc (as a swinger has to), and so are much more sensitive if set up correctly.

### Swinging-Arm Indicators

### The most popular indicators today, swingers, are very versatile systems.

### Swingers consist of a bobbin attached to a swinging arm equipped with a sliding counterweight to enable you to adjust the weight of the bobbin, depending upon the style of fishing you are doing.

### Probably the most popular swinging arm indicator is the Fox Mk2 Swinger. Fox also have a Mk1 Swinger and a Euro Swinger for extreme range, but the Mk2's are the good for all round fishing.

### The advantage of swingers over bobbins is that they are very stable in the wind and, if you set them up correctly, they do not normally swing to give false indications. One of the most important points when it comes to setting up your swinger is to make sure that the counterweight on the arm is in the correct place for the style of fishing you are doing.

### The closer the weight is to the bobbin, the heavier the bobbin will be. It may sounds obvious but anglers can be frequently seen fishing in the margins with the weight right up against the bobbin, or at long range with the weight at the other end of the arm and the indicator too light to do its job properly.

### If you think you are likely to get a drop-back instead of a screaming run, make the indicator as heavy as possible so that it will fall easily when the line falls slack. If you are expecting full-blooded takes then move the weight along the arm so that the bobbin has only a bit of weight to it.

### It's a case of trial and error, but it is important for you to think about your style of fishing and change your tactics according to that style. Never just use the same indicator on the same setting every session you fish, or your indication sensitivity will certainly suffer.

### Tension-Arm and Combination Indicators

### There used to be two tension-arm indicators on the market: the MCF Wanger and the Fox Springer. The Wanger may no longer be available, but the Springer is. Both of these indicators are basically a bobbin on the end of a quiver tip.

### When it comes to setting up a tension-arm indicator there is very little you can do to change the sensitivity - it is governed by the stiffness of the tension arm.

### Tension-arm indicators are ideally suited to long-range fishing or tight-to-island margins, where they will keep the line tight and under pressure, helping to stop any bowing of the line. However, they are not so good in the margins as they tend to create a bowstring-tight line, which can spook fish.

### Nash Tackle's two bite indicators, the Wisp and the Wasp, both have a swinging-arm facility on them, as do Solar's Quiver-Loc and Fox's Swing Spring; and all double up as tension-arm indicators to boot. These are what is known as combination indicators.

### They have sliding weights to vary the loading in swinging-arm mode. The Wisp and the Quiver-Loc come with two different strengths of spring arm, for short-or long-range fishing, but as far as adjustment goes there is little further room for movement.

### The Wasp has a tension dial to vary the power of the spring, which allows the loading of this model to as much as 12oz (useful for fishing ultra long distance).

## Rod Rests, Buzzer Bars & Pods

### Rod Rests

### Many carp anglers fish primarily with what is known as 'static baits', whereby long hours are spent sitting behind rods that are specifically positioned in areas where carp may feed. In such circumstances long hours of holding the rod will soon become tiresome - and this is where the rod rest comes in.

### Rod rests are also used to assist with indication by keeping the rod off the ground and clear of any debris that may interfere with line movement. They can be made from a wide range of materials, from a simple tree branch to a machine-turned piece of steel. They come in many different designs and shapes, with some already complete and others with adjustable heads and lengths.

### Those with adjustable heads are usually termed banksticks and are normally preferred by the carp angler as they can accommodate the widely used bite alarm. Banksticks also have a multitude of other uses -including the support of the buzzer bar.

### Buzzer Bars

### Buzzer bars are horizontal supports that hold the rods at regular intervals. They always consist of two or more head screws, depending on how many rods you wish to use, and they are designed to keep the bankside rod set-up neat and at hand.

### As with rod rests and banksticks, buzzer bars come in a number of different designs to suit personal preference. Many carp anglers like to use two sets of

### buzzer bars for their set-up. These are termed the front and the back bars, and are used to support the alarms and butt rests respectively.

### All buzzer bars are supported by bankstick inserts. These give the carp angler excellent rod stability, but they can sometimes be awkward to insert on hard banks. For this reason the infamous rod pod was born.

### Rod Pods

### In simple terms a rod pod is a one-piece rod rest that you can move about easily and that you do not have to push into the ground.

### The original purpose of a rod pod was to create a stable set-up whilst fishing on hard and rocky banks such as those around many of the big reservoirs but, in recent years, convenience and fashion seem to have taken over. Like everything else, rod pods come in many different designs and materials, and therefore the price of them varies greatly.

### Although most junior anglers are on limited budgets, we recommend that beginners try to purchase a rod pod ahead of buzzer bars and banksticks. This will be of more benefit to you in the long run.

### Butt Grips and Rests

### The back bars of any carp rod set-up should include butt grips or butt rests to rest the butt end of the carp rod on.

### They come in an array of different shapes and sizes, with our choice being the grippers, which almost lock the rod into place.

## Learn about Line

### Line

### Many anglers pay great attention to rigs, rods and so on, and perhaps do not attach as much importance as they should to line. It's all very nice having the best gear on the bank and the latest super rig, but if your line isn't up to the job then your tackle is worthless as you'll never land fish.

### You should always buy the best line you can for the type of fishing you do, as not all lines are the same and some are designed with a specific purpose in mind (for example long-distance low-diameter casting lines or thicker abrasion-resistant snag lines).

### There are two main types of line and these are braided and mono. In the main, most lines used today are nylon monofilament, but for extra strength and less stretch, braided lines have become popular. Nylon is a man-made substance and monofilament means 'one strand'.

### Pre-Stretched Mono

### Nylon line is by its nature very stretchy and therefore some people prefer a line that has had all the stretch taken out of it. This is done by pulling each end of the section of line by machine, thus making the line thinner and at the same time more brittle due to the lack of stretch.

### An example of a pre-stretched line is Drennan Double Strength. This is favored for ultra line-shy fish in clear waters or at some of the heavily pressured waters where the fish have become accustomed to angler's lines.

### It is also excellent for long-range casting as it flies through the rings a lot more easily, but we wouldn't use it for extreme range.

### Unstretched Mono

### The direct opposite of a pre-stretched line is line which has not been stretched at all.

### This is a bit thicker in diameter, and when a fish starts to pull the mono will stretch slightly. This has the plus point of acting as a shock absorber when playing fish.

### An example of such a line is Berkley Big Game, which is also a tough, abrasive line well recommended for using in snags.

### Part-Stretched Mono

### In between the two extremes mentioned above is part-stretched line.

### This has the advantage of being a bit thinner than the unstretched line but still retains a bit of the shock absorbing quality (an example is Sabreline).

### These lines are favored for all-round type carping and come in many different breaking strains.

### Braided Lines

### Braided lines have become a favorite in recent years for those anglers fishing amongst sunken tree roots such as on the big reservoirs.

### Such lines have no stretch whatsoever and are very good for long-range

### fishing as they enable anglers to be in direct control of fish.

### Have a look at Sabrebraid Dyneema.

### What to Consider when Buying Line

### On each spool of line you buy there will be a number indicating its breaking strain. This means that when that amount of pressure is placed on the line it will snap. Most lines, especially unstretched varieties, will take more strain than the stated weight, but always use the breaking strain as a guideline.

### When buying line you should always consider what type of fishing you will be doing as some lines are made for specific purposes and will not be suitable for general, all-round fishing. If in doubt ask at your tackle shop for advice, telling the assistant what sort of fishing you will be doing.

### If you intend to be casting great distances you will want a fairly thin line, which will allow you to cast further. Use a line of around 10lb breaking strain, which will be strong enough to play fish on but thin enough to be cast long distances.

### Back this up with a shock leader if you want to cast extra far and also to be safe. This is a length of line of high breaking strain (12—15lb), which is attached to the weaker mainline (10lb) to withstand the punishment of casting a heavy lead a long distance.

### If you use a shock leader, you must make sure the joining knot (known as the leader knot) can pass through the eye of the lead. If it can't, you will be fishing with what is known as a 'tether rig': any fish that picks up your bait following a crack-off may have to drag your lead and a length of line around with it for a very long time and may even become permanently snagged.

### If the type of fishing you do is close in and amongst snags then you will want a line which is very abrasion resistant and can cope with being pulled back and forth along tree roots or lily pads. For obvious reasons, always use a thick, higher breaking strain line for this type of fishing.

### Finally, what you must remember with all lines is that they lose their strength with use and exposure to sunlight/water. As soon as your line shows signs of wear and tear, change it immediately, as it could cost you fish.

### If you buy a bulk spool of line you should be able to fill at least three or four spools with it, so even the more expensive lines are quite reasonable if bought in bulk. Be aware of this loss of strength when purchasing lines from tackle shops.

### If you know for certain that a particular spool of line has been on sale for some time, avoid buying it. Also avoid lines for sale in bargain boxes - it is almost certain that they will not be up to scratch.

## Bivvies & Shelters

### Being comfortable on the bank is of great importance, especially if you are likely to be fishing for long periods of time as most of us tend to do these days.

### Your choice of shelter obviously depends on the length of session you are going to be fishing.

### Based on our experience of fishing all manner of different sessions, ranging from overnight trips where we've had to walk a couple of miles, to two-week sessions out of a swim you can drive to, here are some types of shelter.

### Overnight Lightweight Shelter

### There is nothing as good as a simple oval umbrella for short overnight trips. These are marketed by several of the top-flight companies.

### Not only are they extremely light and slip easily into the rod bag, they are also very strong and very weatherproof.

### Besides the brolly itself, you will need a couple of banksticks to prop it up. For further comfort, again at very little extra weight, you can attach a wrap to the brolly.

### Long-Stay Shelter

### It is becoming increasingly necessary to fish for lengthy periods of time on some of the difficult waters. In such instances, it is a real bonus if you are as comfortable as possible, or you may find yourself bored and tired out after only a couple of days - especially in poor weather conditions. When fishing

### for periods lasting longer than two weeks in the same swim, you may find that long-stay fishing needs a 2 Man Shelters. These will house one angler together with enough gear for the session and gives excellent comfort when needed.

### Pick a large tent, that can be erected in a very short time and has a large entrance at the front and the rear - ideal for the social gatherings that seem to be the norm amongst long-stay anglers these days. Suitable for winter fishing as well as summer - built-in ground sheet and double-skinned liners assist greatly here. And in the summer in some places a mosquito net is invaluable.

## Know Your Baiting Up Equipment

### One of the most important aspects of carping in the 1980s and 90s was the baiting principle - indeed, it still is today. Many beginners will be confused about the whole idea of bait as there are so many companies out there who say theirs is best.

### Yes, there are some very good baits on the market, but the newcomer should concern himself more with putting a bait in the right place with the correct amount of feed around it, which is far more important.

### Besides the more obvious ways of placing bait, such as by hand and by manually operated boat, there are many other ways of baiting up your swim.

### Catapults

### The next step up from baiting by hand, a catapult is useful to bait up to about 60yd maximum. Above this distance the accuracy starts to tail off and you would be better off using something else, such as a throwing stick.

### Apart from the distance aspect, the main disadvantage with catapults is the 'catty slap' from the elastic - when the pouch flaps back and stings the wrist - which can be very painful, especially in winter. Fox sell some very good catapults, as do Drennan and Hutchy.

### Check to see what you want the catapult to achieve before you purchase. A catapult is not just a catapult these days. You'll find feeder pults, boilie pults, maggot pults and so on. The list is endless.

### Throwing Sticks

### If you want to bait up with boilies at a distance and be accurate in the process, a throwing stick is the best thing for you. As far as long-range throwing sticks go there are several, give the Jumbo Cobra a try.

### This takes a bit of time to master, but once you have, you should be able to put baits up to 100 yards with ease and be very accurate with it. Besides the Jumbo, the Cobra range includes the Mini Cobra for up to 30yd distance, the Spod for firing out particle-type baits, and various other sizes to assist the type of fishing you are interested in.

### Cobras are good when fishing in England because boats are normally not allowed, and the Jumbo accommodates all types of situation. The one thing worth noting with throwing sticks is that certain tools are designed for certain purposes, so you may lose accuracy if you use a long-range stick at short range and vice versa.

### Bait Boats

### Although a very expensive item of fishing tackle, bait boats are a fantastic modern-day angling tool. They can be used to place hookbaits as well as free offerings in the perfect spot and, if necessary, in the most awkward of places such as close to overhanging bushes.

### Besides helping with hookbait placement, the nice thing about using a bait boat is that it overcomes the problems encountered with seagulls when trying to bait up with a throwing stick.

### Bait boats appear very awkward to handle, but after a little bit of practice they can be maneuvered quite easily.

### Boats & Accessories

### Boats come in all manner of different sizes and shapes, so cost will certainly be the main area to consider here. For the record, the more expensive boats are hard-bottomed and made from fibre glass, while cheaper versions are usually made from PVC or canvas.

### Better advice on this topic can be obtained at your local boat shop or army-type store, consult these before purchasing.

### Some traditionalists knock the use of boats for carp fishing and they really only have their uses on large waters if one wishes to be consistently successful rather than simply lucky.

## Carp Care

### The subject of fish care has been extensively written about in carp magazines for many years now, and it is excellent to see so many anglers taking note of what is being preached.

### Unhooking mats and antiseptic solutions are now a common sight around many of our fisheries, and although this is great to see, there is still unfortunately a minority of anglers who seem to be lacking a little in some areas of fish care.

### In the following chapters, we will take a look at some of the modern carp care products available to the angler as well as some basic codes of practice to follow.

### Remember, the care of the fish is one of the most important aspects of fishing. We are caring for the main component in our sport. There are some who totally disregard the care of the fish, there're attitude is not how the majority of anglers behave and should be re-educated.

### The larger fish require more attention just because of their shear size and weight, but don't forget the smaller weights of the species, they are tomorrows Big Carp.

## Carp Care Tackle

## Unhooking Mats

### An unhooking mat is, as the name suggests, a mat used for unhooking fish on. It must be used every time a fish comes out of the water and must be carried by the carp angler at all times.

### Every time you catch a fish, don't bring the fish out of the water and unhook it on hard, rough ground, place it on the soft protective mat.

### The mat will cushion the weight of the fish and protect it from any unnecessary damage such as lost scales or cuts, which may lead to infection. The mat should be the right size to comfortably fit the size of the fish you are trying to catch.

### When Should they be Used?

### As stated above, unhooking mats must always be used when a carp comes out of its natural environment. This could be: when weighing fish, when unhooking fish, when photographing fish or when treating fish.

### It is vitally important that they are placed underneath the fish when carrying out any of these tasks.

### The reasons for this are obvious - you never know when the fish is going to flip out of your hands or when the weighing sling will detach itself from the scales hook.

### Why Should We All Have One?

### All carp anglers should carry unhooking mats because the welfare of the carp is our main concern. It is as simple as that.

### Every time a carp is caught we inflict stress upon it, and we should therefore try to minimize any damage the fish may cause to itself as it flaps around on the bank. Never rely on someone else to bring a mat - always take your own each and every time you go fishing.

### Making an Unhooking Mat

### Although unhooking mats from most suitable angling suppliers are relatively cheap, some are heavily priced for what they are. It is possible to make one.

### What you need:

### Two 40 by 30in (100 by 75cm) sections of waterproof-backed nylon fabric.

### One 36 by 26in (90 by 65 cm) section of thick foam padding.

### A needle, thread and thimble or a sewing machine.

### It is advisable to use good, strong cotton and a leather needle to sew with, as the fabric can be very tough. The waterproof-backed nylon can be purchased cheaply from most material traders. The foam may also be available from market traders or.

### Method:

### 1. Lay one piece of the waterproof-backed nylon fabric on the floor with the waterproof side up.

### 2. Place the piece of foam onto the piece of nylon fabric.

### 3. Place the second piece of waterproof-backed nylon fabric on top of the

### foam padding. Make sure that this piece is placed waterproof-face down.

### 4. With a sewing machine or needle and thread, sew the two pieces of fabric together around the edges.

### Once you have carried out the above steps and you are happy that the two pieces of fabric are sewn together well, your unhooking mat is ready to use. If you follow the size guidelines, your mat should be very light and suitable for strapping to rucksacks or bags.

### Forceps, Disgorgers and Pliers

### When unhooking fish, never try to tear the hook from the mouth or jiggle it about and make the wound bigger. It can sometimes be difficult to unhook carp with your fingers, so always have about you a deep pair of forceps as well as a stick disgorger and a pair of pliers - all available from your local tackle shop.

### All items will assist in one way or another to unhook a fish rather than following the inhumane method of simply cutting the line.

### Forceps help to free a hook caught up in all manner of different positions, while a stick disgorger helps with those deeply hooked down the throat and past the barb. Carry a pair of pliers with you at all times because fish can sometimes become double hooked.

### In this case the best thing to do is to cut the hook itself and slip it through the flesh of the lips rather than risk damaging the fish's feeding utensil. To carry just one of the above items is not sufficient - you need all three.

### Antiseptic Solutions

### Fish are prone to what is termed predatory infection by a wide variety of organisms - and at all times of the year. Such infections may be caused by bacteria, fungus, viruses, or pathogens, and are normally the after-effects of superficial damage.

### Any open wound on a fish is open to infection at any time, so it is vitally important for anglers to repair any damage that may be present on the fish they catch, or indeed happen to see in distress.

### As anglers, the most common injury you will see is hook damage; but besides this, it is also possible to notice cuts and abrasions on the flanks of fish which may have been caused naturally (for example spawning marks).

### As far as infections are concerned, probably the most common one we see around our fisheries is saprolegnia. Saprolegnia, otherwise known as water mould, is a fungus infection which is present in all fresh waters, but is more likely to occur on injured, weakened, or diseased fish than on healthy ones.

### It is a very common sight at heavily stocked waters and is a possible cause of fish deaths. In its early stages it looks very similar to mould, but as time passes by, and depending on the size of the wound, it becomes progressively worse and begins to eat away at the fish.

### At this stage it starts to look like cotton wool and, if not treated in time, may lead to the death of the host. Saprolegnia or any open wound infection can be treated in a number of ways, but certainly the best is to use antiseptic solutions such as Klin-ik, which is available from Kryston.

### Simple saline solution is also effective. If you come across a fish with

### saprolegnia, or an open wound, then simply apply antiseptic solution to the open or infected area and leave it to dry for a minute. It is important that you allow a whole minute for the solution to be absorbed by the wound, or much of its effectiveness will be wasted - along with your efforts. The fish can then be returned to the water.

### All carp anglers must carry a bottle of antiseptic solution with them - there is really no excuse not to. Make sure you are one of the many rather than the minority. Healthy fish may return to fight another day, and possibly at a higher and personal-best weight. Those that are damaged may never return at all.

### Weighing Slings

### Although we prefer to weigh fish in the landing net and later deduct the weight of the net after returning the fish to the water, there are plenty of excellent specialist weighing slings on the market. These are made from a fine mesh material which helps the fish to be more comfortable when being lifted off the floor.

### There are plenty of different weighing products on the market, including excellent slings from companies like Rod Hutchinson, Kevin Nash, Fox and Daiwa. Hutchy sells an excellent model which also doubles up into a sack (see below), saving the fish more stress. Known as the Big Kipper Sling/Sack, it simply has a zip across the top which you close when you want to retain the fish for photographing.

### Sacks and Fish-Retaining Items

### If you like to keep photographs or slides of your fish captures, then you will require a suitable fish-retaining product to hold the fish following capture. The ideal really is to not retain carp in sacks in the first place because of the stress this causes them, but obviously not everyone are fantastic photographers in the dark, or prefer to have others assist or want to keep the fish for a couple of hours just to calm it down.

### As with weighing slings, there are numerous sack / retention items on the market, such as the Be-Safe Sack or the Sling Sack.

### When purchasing a sack for carp, ensure that it is made from a soft material and has plenty of air holes. Preferably it should be at least 60in long and 40in deep. It should also have a safety zip or fastener, and be supplied with a long main cord so that the fish can swim freely and settle at its preferred depth.

### This is an important point, especially in summer when waters are depleted of oxygen, as a stressed fish which is sacked up can end up a dead fish if it is not retained in deep, cool water. Basically, never sack a fish in shallow, warm water or anywhere near reeds or weed beds, which draw oxygen from the water at night.

### Here's another good tip: ensure that your sack is equipped with a light marker float attachment. This is so that you can locate the fish should it become unattached from the bankstick. Hopefully this won't happen because you will have secured it well first time around!

### Sadly, there have been plenty of big fish lost to the depths of lakes because anglers have not bothered to attach the main sack cord safely to the bank.

### Make sure you're not one of them and make sure the length of line attached to the float is deeper than the deepest area of water. It's common sense really.

### Landing Nets

### For obvious reasons, all carp anglers must be in possession of a landing net. This must measure at least 40in across the net, as well as in depth, and be capable of landing fish to the size you might find in the water you are fishing.

### The net should be made from a non-knotted mesh and be as friendly to the fish as possible (for instance, it should not have any gaping holes in it). If the net is damaged in any way, then it should be disposed of as soon as possible.

### You may have witnessed an angler lose a 40lb fish because the bottom of his landing net gave way when pressure was applied to a small hole!

## Carp Care

## A Step by Step Guide

### Catching a fish will always disturb the protective covering it has on its flanks. We can help to minimize this by wetting our hands, unhooking mats, weigh slings, and sacks prior to use. It is not a matter of just damping the equipment; everything has to be really soaked in water to avoid problems arising.

### This is a fairly simple operation and should always be carried out before you lift a fish out of the water. It is also important to get into the habit of carrying a container with you at all times (such as a bait bucket). The container can be filled with water, which can then be poured onto the fish quickly when needed.

### If white foam forms on the flanks of the fish or equipment, this is a sure sign that there is not enough moisture present and that the fish's protective slime is being disturbed. It is impossible to give an exact time when the foaming will occur, but soaking the fish and equipment at least every minute during handling will help minimize any problems. Although such a procedure may help to protect the fish, it doesn't mean that its time on the bank can be increased: get it back into the water as soon as possible.

### Be careful when you read the dial of the scales when weighing fish. Numerous anglers (not just juniors) read the dial of the scales incorrectly and giving the fish a false weight. This is especially so with Avon scales, so you must ensure that you count the number of times the finger moves around the dial before reading off the weight.

### Anglers have added, and even not counting, 10lb of weight through

### misreading, which can be very embarrassing and disappointing. Always hold your scales by the handle (if it possesses one) at the top rather than at the bottom or sides. This is the most accurate way of weighing fish. If you weigh something with your scales whilst holding them from the sides or the bottom, the item will weigh at the very least 4oz too much (or too little). Believe it or not, we have come across scales which, when held in these positions, weigh 12oz too heavy.

### You have to be very careful when holding your scales at the top because on some makes there is very little to hold onto and you may find yourself dropping the fish. Get hold of one of the manufactured weighing bars to help or, alternatively, make one yourself from a piece of heavy-duty dowel and some rope.

### Simply cut some 2in (5cm) dowel to a length of approximately 12in (30cm). Drill a small hole through the centre and thread the rope. Now pass this rope through the top of the scales and attach with a good knot. Before you use it with a fish, however, always test the strength of the handle knot thoroughly by lifting something heavy and bouncing it. Remember if you weigh a fish incorrectly to gain a few ounces you are only cheating yourself!

### When weighing a fish, ensure that all of its fins are comfortably lying against the side of the fish and not sticking out awkwardly and at risk of being damaged in some way. The fins most likely to lie awkwardly are the pectorals, and it is sadly not unusual to come across fish with broken fin rays caused by bad handling by anglers.

### A Step by Step Guide to Handling Carp

### Anglers must all do our utmost to ensure that the carp receives the best

### possible treatment and care whilst it is on the bank. Unfortunately, there are many anglers around who are not aware of the correct way to treat carp once they've been landed. It is for this reason that some carp bear the scars of battle and look as if they have come to the end of the road.

### To finish off this section, let's take a look at a step by step guide to handling carp and try to give you a few pointers on how to unhook, treat, weigh, photograph and return fish safely.

### Step 1: Landing the Fish

### When landing the fish, you should ensure that you bring the fish to the net. Never chase after the fish with the net as all you will do is cause it to panic. Keep your rod held high and try to keep the fish's head up.

### Once it is wallowing on the surface, gently guide it towards the net and close the mesh around. When the fish is safely in the net, place your rod and landing net in a safe bankside area. Leave the fish in the water, in a comfortable position, with the net closed around it for at least two minutes.

### This will give it a chance to 'catch its breath' so to speak. You should now be in a position to organize your treatment and photographic equipment.

### Step 2: Lifting the Fish out of the Water

### Make sure tools, such as the unhooking mat, forceps, liquid treatment, scales and camera are all at hand before you bring the fish on land. When you are ready, lift the fish out of the water and place it gently down on the unhooking mat.

### Do not put the fish down if it is flapping about - hold it above the mat until it

### has calmed down. Always have a bowl of water at hand to make sure that the fish remains wet at all times.

### Depending on the weather, the fish will need to be coated with water at least every minute or so.

### Step 3: Unhooking the Fish

### It may be possible for you to unhook the fish using your fingers. If the hook is firmly embedded into the mouth, though, you will need to use forceps.

### Never try to twist the hook out of the mouth. Try to perform the task in the safest possible way. When using forceps, grasp the part of the hook that is closest to the insertion.

### Ensure that you do not pinch the carp's skin with the forceps. Once the hook is out, make sure your rig is out of the way of the net and the fish by hooking it to one of the rod rings.

### Step 4: Carp Treatment

### Take a good look at the fish on both sides and treat any sores or cuts with liquid treatment.

### Step 5: Weighing the Fish

### Try to carry out the task of weighing the fish in the simplest way possible. When handling fish that you are not going to sack, don't use weigh slings as these are awkward to use and mess the fish about too much. Instead weigh the fish in the landing net. To do this, simply detach the head of the net from the pole, zero the scales and weigh.

### The exact weight of the fish can be calculated by weighing the empty net once you have returned the fish to the water. For safety reasons, never lift the fish too far off the ground and always have the unhooking mat underneath.

### If, for any reason, the fish starts to bleed from the gills, make sure that it is returned to the water immediately. Usually this is roughly the equivalent of a nose bleed in a human. It will stop shortly after giving the fish a breather and you can continue with the weighing.

### Step 6: Sacking the Fish

### If the fish is to be sacked for photographic purposes, weigh it in a sling. Make sure you soak it well and place it at arm's length from the unhooking mat before lifting the fish out of the water.

### After treating the fish (Step 4), slide the net carefully from underneath. The fish can then be placed inside the sling / sack. After weighing, place the sack carefully in deep water, with the safety cord attached to a solid support, such as a deeply embedded bankstick.

### Support and watch the fish until it looks comfortable in the sack and able to settle on its own accord.

### Step 7: Preparing the Fish for Photographing

### When photographing fish, you should always have the camera ready prepared before lifting the fish from the water. Get yourself in a comfortable position and always hold the fish over the unhooking mat.

### Hold the fish firmly and gently lift it off the mat. Don't lift it too high, it only

### needs to be a few inches off the ground to get a good photo.

### Always be prepared for the fish to flip. If it does, remember that your main priority is its welfare, not your photo.

### Step 8: Returning the Fish to the Water

### Once the photos are out of the way the fish can be returned to the water. This is easily done by placing the fish on the mat or lifting the landing net around it.

### Make sure it is comfortable and that there are no gaps in the mat / net for it to fall through.

### Always keep a firm grip on the net and carry the fish close to the ground.

### Step 9: Stabilizing the Fish

### Place the fish back in the water in an upright position. Hold the fish and support it until it is ready to go.

### Never throw the fish into the water and never force it to swim off.

### You should always remain with it until it is ready to go on its own accord, even if it takes an hour!

### Step 10: Releasing the Fish

### When the fish wants to go, let it go, and never take your eyes off it until it is out of sight.

### Carp care is the most important part of carp fishing. You should always treat the carp with the respect they deserve, regardless of their size.

## Tactics

### Before we move on to some of the more topical issues connected with successful carp fishing, such as bait, rigs and so on, it is important to consider the necessary skills of the carp angler.

### With the development of technology and knowledge, tackle, bait and available fishing information has advanced at a rapid rate, so it is now possible for anglers to go out and catch carp instantly without any previous experience.

### However, modern tackle and information can only get instant carp anglers to a certain level within the sport, as the lack of basic skills leaves many behind the more experienced and knowledgeable foe.

### This chapter outlines some of the fundamentals the angler will need to catch carp on a consistent basis. Included are such skills as locating carp, choosing the right swim, feature-finding, playing fish, plus much more.

### We'll kick off right at the start with a simple look at probably the most vital topic - location.

### Locate Fish & Fish Feeding Areas

### We wouldn't be far off the mark if we said that locating carp, or more importantly their feeding areas, is the fundamental key to successful carp fishing. Very often you hear anglers asking each other about how they would rate bait, rigs, location and tackle in order of preference.

### Usually you'll hear several different answers, all conflicting with one another,

### listen to what they have to say, try what you think is right, remember the result or even better keep a log / diary.

### Find the fish first, and then find out where they are going to feed and you will make life so much easier.

### Forget fancy rigs and bait. They don't attract the carp in the way that some of the adverts and articles would have you believe. If they did, you would catch every time you used them!

### So where do you start looking for carp?

### All waters are different and not all carp are the same. This is what makes it sound so difficult. The only way to make it sound easier is to begin with the basics and gradually progress from there.

### In this section we shall do exactly that, so we'll begin by considering the four different ways in which we can actually locate the areas that we all set out to discover: visual, aural, mechanical and conversational. These are fairly self-explanatory in that you will either see carp with your eyes, hear carp with your ears, find them with the use of an echo-sounder or feature-finding tool or discover their whereabouts through conversations with other anglers.

### The one thing that we all like to do is see carp for ourselves, because at least then we are certain of where some are located. The ideal, however, is not just to see carp, but to actually see them feeding in a certain area. That is sure to be the icing on the cake.

### We wouldn't just use leaping carp as an indicator here either. Sometimes, especially on the big waters, leaping carp are not always feeding. They may be cleaning themselves of parasites, clearing their gills of unwanted debris,

### or simply just leaping out of sheer enjoyment.

### We must say, however, that leaping carp are always going to be a great confidence booster, and wherever they are seen you will always see us casting a bait towards them. The secret here is not to cast right on top of their heads, but rather over the back of them, drawing the rig towards the area where they have shown. This way you are less likely to spook them from the area and they are more likely to inspect the hookbait.

### As for aural location of carp, you will hear them topping around the lake both in the dark and during the day. It therefore pays not to have a radio turned up loud or a TV set blasting out for all to hear: you may miss that all-important fish location clue.

### You shoul train your mind into listening for sounds of carp jumping. We may be sleeping at night, in total deep sleep, but come the morning our minds will have registered whether carp have topped in the night or not at all. Sometimes, especially if we are sleeping lightly, we may even rise from bed to try and locate where a particular carp has shown.

### On still nights, or those where very little wind ripple is present, you may be able to pinpoint exactly where a carp has shown by the splash created on the surface. Obviously this is harder on large waters where the carp are showing at range, but if you wait a short while until the ripples make their way to the shore, you may receive an all-important clue.

### Fish-Finding Tools

### As you might expect, there are a number of useful tools available from tackle suppliers to assist in finding carp. The best tool in the world would be a carp-feeding locator but unfortunately these only come through experience and a lot of trial and error. You can, however, purchase such items of tackle as polarizing glasses, pocket-sized binoculars or even echo-sounders. Polarizing glasses are fairly expensive if you purchase them from tackle shops so try buying them on the high street. Basically, polarizing glasses allow you to look beneath water when glare from the sun would normally make this impossible. The lenses come in all manner of different colors, like orange, red or blue, all of which will suit different users or uses. A standard pair of sunglasses will not perform the job that a pair of polarizing glasses will, so make sure you spend wisely.

### As for binoculars, again these come in all manner of different shapes or forms, with the most expensive being the most powerful. You can even buy polarizing binoculars nowadays. We like the type you can drop into your pocket so they can be carried up trees and around a lake without too much bother. A good pair won't come cheap but will be well worth it.

### Locating Those Carp

### It's all well and good having the best fish-locating equipment in the world, but every now and again it won't work in your favor. You'll feel as though your best chance of locating the fish has been completely lost if your echo-sounder hasn't located any big fish or if your best-looking pair of polarizing glasses hasn't enabled you to see any signs of carp. The key success to finding carp and their feeding areas is to look and listen for them. There is no substitute.

### You will usually find experienced anglers carrying out a reconnaissance trip of a lake before commencing any fishing. This will involve talking to as many anglers as possible, looking in every swim, checking marginal snags,

### climbing trees to get a good view of the lake (ensure this is acceptable to the owner), looking carefully at overhanging bushes or anything that may attract carp.

### Carp fundamentally love features. Where there are snags or items in the water which will make the carp feel safe, there will usually be carp.

### Carp are relatively simple creatures in that they only have to eat, breathe, spawn and keep themselves safe to live. The only things that interrupt their patterns of behavior on a day-to-day basis are external factors such as anglers, weather conditions, predators, the nature of the lake, and water quality and flow.

### Weather Conditions

### Many believe in the theory that carp like to follow the wind, and from all directions. Like many things, however, this will depend on the lake, carp stock and the pressure the fish are put under from anglers. People in carp-fishing circles do tend to talk about warm winds being better than cold ones, and whilst this is certainly true a lot of the time, it is still never enough to guarantee success.

### Many believe that carp in big lakes - of above 10 acres (4ha) - tend to be affected by winds a great deal more than those in smaller waters with lots of islands and weed beds. Food particles get picked up in the 'flow' and can be carried to the windward end of a lake. Usually the water color here is much more turbid than at the back of a wind, especially at clear waters, and as a result the carp will not only feel safer and better camouflaged, but will also benefit from an abundance of food.

### Small plankton items will attract predators which the carp may prefer. The water may also be much more oxygenated, which is another reason why the carp will be in large numbers at that end of the lake.

### Another advantage of a wind is its effect on the temperature of the water. A warm wind can quickly warm the water at the windward end, whilst a cooler wind will have the opposite effect. How this works for you will depend on the circumstances.

### In the summer months warm water will make the fish lethargic, so a cooler area may be a good collection point for food items and a much more comfortable area for the fish to lie up. In winter, on the other hand, a warm wind may attract fish.

### It is thought that the wind does affect the temperature of waters in a big way, especially on deep waters where it can disrupt the thermoclatic layers. To discuss the topic of thermoclines in depth is not necessary in this guide, but to put it simply they are zones of rapid temperature change.

### Thermoclines tend to occur in waters more than 100ft (30m) deep, but there is scientific evidence to suggest that they can occasionally be found in shallower waters that are not affected by wind very much. Below depths of 30ft (10m), areas of a lake can become very anaerobic if big winds don't regularly cause the water to mix. This causes aquatic life to become very scarce in the deeper areas, with the result that the carp will generally only feed in the margins or shallower areas where sunlight has a big effect on the abundance of food.

### Other observers say that colder winds turn carp off, and whilst this may be the case at some venues, it shouldn't be taken as a generalization. Carp

### waters are all different. At some venues carp love the back of the wind, even warm ones, whilst at others they prefer to be right in the midst of it.

### Local knowledge is key, get to know a water and try to read the signs as much as possible; still, if you are lost for clues, then the windy end of a lake is always a very good starting point, regardless of which direction the wind is coming from.

### In the same way that wind can warm or cool water, so can rain and snow. Snow, sleet or hailstones can kill the fishing dead if it has been quite productive over the last few hours or days. It can have the opposite effect if the weather has been very warm and the fish lethargic.

### Rain can also turn fish on or off, findings tend to be more positive with rain than snow, hail or sleet. Very light drizzle and no wind can be good, so often there are many other factors in the frame.

### The last weather feature worth mentioning is air pressure. Air pressure has a massive effect on the carp and, indeed, the weather itself. As the sun's rays warm the atmosphere, fronts of cold and warm air are created. These fronts move up and down and left to right with the movement of the sun, and this movement can be one reason that a wind is blowing from a particular direction. In the northern hemisphere winds are generally drawn towards low-pressure areas. In fact, if you stand with your back to the wind, the low pressure will be on your left.

### Warm fronts travel faster than the cooler ones, but both tend to cause a change of wind direction. For obvious reasons, then, air pressure will affect the movements and location of the carp. Air pressure also dictates the amount of oxygen that can be absorbed by the water. High pressure allows

### more oxygen to be absorbed by water, whilst low pressure has the opposite effect. This pressure/ oxygen effect also affects the carp.

### Carp have a gas-filled sack known as the swim bladder. If you think back to your chemistry and biology lessons, you may recall that when pressure is increased upon a gas, particles in the gas are forced together. This pressure will quite obviously have an effect upon a fish, and usually it will cause carp to become lethargic. A thunderstorm can have the opposite effect. Anglers all tend to talk about thunderstorms being excellent carp-feeding periods, especially once they have passed. One theory behind this is that once the air pressure has decreased the fish become much more comfortable, so they start jumping and preparing for a nice feed.

### The Nature of the Lake Bed

### Carp will soon become masters of their own environment once they have been in a particular water for a number of weeks, features are what carp really love the most.

### Visible features on a lake are always a good starting point. These may come in the form of islands, reedbeds, snags, weed beds, lily beds, sunken cars or similar obstructions, a fall pipe that creates a disturbance on the surface of the water, thus giving the carp some cover, an overhanging bush - the list is endless.

### What we can see from the surface, however, isn't always a true indication of what lies below. This is why plumbing and feature-finding are a must for the long-stay carp angler. Below the surface you may discover small weed beds, shelves or drop-offs, plateaux, craters, gravel or sand bars, sunken snags or fallen trees. Carp use features not only as safety, but also as roadways around a water, much as motorists use road signs.

### Sometimes features may be very small, such as a tiny gravel patch in a very silty lake, or a tiny silt area in a gravel lake. Some are likely to offer food supplies as well. If a lake is silty all over apart from the odd sandy / gravel area, then try a bait on the sand/gravel.

### These bars are likely to hold a different type of food supply to the silt. The same can be applied to gravel pits that have the odd area of silt. Another thing to watch out for is variations in depth. If a lake is fairly flat all over apart from the odd deeper area then try a rod on the latter. A small drop-off may be just what is required to give a carp some security.

### A small indentation in the silt will also be an obvious area where a carp has been uprooting. Carp are fairly powerful fish and they will know exactly where the food supplies are around a particular water. A crater in the silt or gravel may have been caused through excessive foraging by the carp. It may be a bloodworm larder, so don't overlook it.

### If you wanted to get technical you could apply the same sort of thinking to your fishing at an annual level. If you are aware of what items the carp are feeding on at certain times of the year, you could apply some strategic thinking. Craters in the silt are likely to be areas full of bloodworm, so why not try these in the spring when bloodworm levels are at their highest, and then change to the pads where crustaceans are likely to be in large supply in the summer, and so on. This sort of approach needs a lot of research, but the signs are there if you care to look for yourself. A fish on the bank may helpfully be excreting a particular food source, making it obvious in which parts or depths of the lake it has been feeding recently.

### The Effects of Day and Night

### Carp are scientifically considered to be diurnal feeders, which means that both day and night length have an influence on their feeding habits. Whether or not they use day length as a clock no one knows, but it is strange how they frequently seem to know when to start or stop feeding.

### There are countless venues that seem only to switch into gear when a certain hour strikes.

### Carp will also use the daily cycle as a trigger to determine when to move to certain areas of the lake. Shallows are a good example here: the warming of the sun's rays may inform the carp of where the most comfortable areas of the lake may be. In the summer, the carp may all head to the shallows at noon where it is much warmer and a good supply of food can be found.

### As soon as the sun starts to go down the carp may all start to head back into the deeper water. It is all a matter of trying to fathom out the movements of the carp. If you are targeting a water on a long-term basis then there is no substitute for watching the water. Ask the more successful anglers on the lake and they'll tell you the same.

### The Effects of the Seasons

### Depending on the water, you may find that the carp are located in different parts of the lake depending on the seasons. There is an old saying that carp go into the deeper water in the winter and, whilst this may be just a saying, it is often the case in England. Deeper water tends to stay at a more constant temperature than shallower water, so always bear this in mind.

### Many carp seem to spend most of their winter life in the deeper water, and

### We would even go so far as to say they spend it stationary in mid-water or at least a few feet off the bottom. This is a very difficult topic to generalize on, because there are also fish that spend a lot of their time in the snaggy areas of the lake. Carp have a habit of splitting up into shoals, more so in the warmer months, but you will still find segregated groups in the winter also.

### Normally in the winter you will find carp huddled together a lot more, usually for safety, but also perhaps for the comfort of the water. Some people refer to oxygen levels to explain why carp are in a certain area, and whilst this can be a factor, it doesn't tend to apply in the winter as the water is usually much more oxygenated due to the slowing up of the aquatic environment: there is less consumption of the oxygen because everything has slowed down. You therefore tend to find what is known as a saturated oxygen level, when no more oxygen can be absorbed by the water. In the summer the opposite is the case, so locating a fall pipe or a stream inlet may be a fabulous tactic to employ at that time of the year.

### Another important seasonal consideration should be the spawning areas of the fish. Carp usually spawn in the same area of the lake / river year after year. If the water is a small venue then you won't have too much difficulty locating the fish. For bigger venues, however, carp will frequently spend days, weeks or even months in a particular area of the lake as the build-up to spawning approaches. They may also stay in the area for weeks afterwards.

### Angler Pressure and Other Effects

### This is the point at which the general principles outlined above start to become totally irrelevant. Carp tend to become conditioned by anglers and the environment they are subjected to, which means that a lot of the basic rules get totally thrown out when anglers start frequenting a water. If the

### carp like the wind, then you may find the windward end very difficult for carp if some good catches have been made from there. The same goes for other areas of a lake.

### If the carp are very suspicious of anglers then you may find the best areas to try are the snags, but if these too have been pressured a fair bit it may be difficult to receive a pick-up from here. You may find the carp will only venture out of the snags to feed every now and again.

### This is where pre-baiting can pay dividends. If you are going to be targeting a lake regularly then start to apply bait around all the areas of the lake that you believe they may visit or feed. This will condition the carp into feeling safe when they feed upon a particular food source. This strategy works best if you use a bait with a personalized flavor or base, as this will stop other anglers taking advantage of your efforts.

### The best time of the year to begin a pre-baiting campaign is in the spring months when, the carp are beginning to wake up. They will be very catchable at this time of the year, but if you continue to apply the bait throughout the year, they will eventually recognize which baits are safer. We like to carry on baiting all the way through the winter also, and this sort of effort really can keep the carp on the move in the winter once they are confident of a bait and its availability.

### Pre-baiting is also a fabulous way of turning unproductive areas of the lake into very productive ones. Areas that are normally devoid of natural food can be turned into fantastic spots after a few weeks of baiting.

### Water quality can also influence the location of the carp. Inflows bringing in chemicals that are then diluted into the lake may be devoid of carp. This is

### also connected to the changing seasons.

### As autumn moves in, all lakes undergo a natural breaking-down process. Leaves that are deposited on the lake bed will decompose naturally, releasing nutrients into the water which the carp may recognize and take a dislike to. Areas that are very productive in the spring and summer turn totally the opposite as autumn settles in. Such areas are then once again very productive the following year.

### You can conclude from all of the above information that the location of carp and their feeding areas is a complex part of the angler's armoury. Advice will always be along the lines of: 'Be aware of what can affect the location of the fish, but never rely on only one factor alone.' Angling pressure can turn carp away from windy areas, and so on, so always try to consider every piece of evidence available to you before you decide which swim to target.

### As an example, consider a lake that is a gravel pit. It may appear to possess very few silt areas. If you start to catch a few carp that are excreting bloodworm then you'll need to put your thinking cap on. The action of the wind may be causing small silt deposits to form in isolated areas of the lake. Consider the direction of the prevailing wind as well as any gravel bars, troughs or gullies.

### Where are they in line with the winds? You may find that the wind has carried silt particles which have been deposited on the leeward sides of the bars. Are there any more signs? If there is weed growing on one side of a bar then it is likely to be rooted in a silty area. There are thousands of signs like this which the angler needs to notice and piece together, a little like a jigsaw puzzle. Locating carp that you cannot see can be a difficult process, but more often than not the signs will be there. It is just a matter of watching, waiting and thinking.

## Setting Up Your Swim

### Choosing a Swim

### Once you've successfully located the carp and their feeding areas you will be in a position to choose which swim to fish at your venue. Although selecting an area to fish may sound easy, there are nevertheless a number of pitfalls you can fall into if your choice of swim is based solely on aesthetic grounds.

### Not only can this lead to blank sessions, but it can also be a nuisance to other anglers. Here are a few ideas on what and what not to consider when choosing a swim:

### Car parks: Although on some occasions it may be necessary to select a swim close to a car park, don't get into the habit of selecting a swim just because of its convenience. Easy-access swims are often popular with anglers but not with fish!

### Other anglers: Before considering a swim close to other anglers, establish where they are fishing and if it's OK for you to set up near to them. Don't start slinging out your lead here, there and everywhere or you may find some angry faces around the lake! And if you make yourself unpopular other anglers will not be keen to pass on useful information.

### Swim size: Besides the matter of fish presence, consider the size of a swim before trying to set your gear up in it, and always try to adjust yourself to the area rather than the swim to yourself. If you own a large bivvy, think about the size of the swim before setting up or you may find yourself losing fish because you are hampered for room.

### Overhead trees: Will your casting or playing offish be limited? Remember, you need to have enough room overhead so that you can cast your rod in the desired direction. Make sure you are completely familiar with your surroundings if you are night fishing a new swim.

### Bankside cover: If the lake you are fishing is renowned for being more productive when bankside disturbance is minimal and anglers are hidden from view, then always try to select a swim that offers plenty of bankside cover. Remember that you also need to have enough space for comfort.

### Feature fishing: If you wish to fish to a feature such as a snag or a weed bed, always select a swim whose position offers you the best chances of landing fish. Examine all the areas around the feature, especially those lying to the side and between it and the bank. In most cases the best way to approach such features will be to fish directly opposite, so that you have a direct pull against the fish.

### Organize Your Swim

### After you have selected your swim the next step is setting up your gear and swim. Keeping your swim organized and tidy whilst static session fishing makes life a lot easier than having your tackle thrown down every which way.

### Not only does it keep things at hand, but it can help you to avoid making silly little mistakes which sometimes cost you fish. The following points outline some of the more important considerations when static bait fishing:

### First erect your shelter. Some questions you should ask yourself are: In which direction is the wind blowing? Can I see the lake to observe fish movement? Is there adequate space to land fish? Is it too close to the water's edge? These simple questions are very often overlooked by anglers.

### Having an organized bivvy is just as important as having an organized swim. Knowing where things are when you need them makes life so much easier. Pay special attention to the small and sharp items of tackle, such as needles and hooks.

### Keep important items of tackle at hand, such as scales, slings, sacks, forceps, Klin-ik, cameras. Make sure that your rods are not placed so that you are constantly falling over them. However, do not set them up so that they are too far away. Be sensible with your decision and be aware of the situation you are fishing (close to snags, for example).

### Always have an idea in your mind as to where you are going to land fish. There is nothing worse than spending hour after hour waiting for a pick-up only to lose the fish because you are undecided about where you are going to net it. Make sure the chosen area is free from obstructions or anything else which may hinder the task.

### Ensure that you have an idea of where you are going to unhook fish and that there is sufficient space surrounding the area for you to place the landing net. The unhooking mat should preferably be well back from the water's edge and well away from any objects that could injure the fish.

### If you wish to take photographs of any fish you may catch, always decide beforehand on where you're going to do this. To smooth the process it also helps to prepare the camera equipment in advance.

### If the lake you are fishing permits the sacking of fish then decide on a suitable area in advance to minimize any stress put on the fish. Look for an area which has sufficient depth and is well away from any obstructions.

## Accuracy of Casting

### If you use a boat on a regular basis, accurate hookbait placement is obviously pretty easy and straightforward. However, one of the fundamental skills of the carp angler is to cast a rod, and be accurate with it. 'That'll do!' just isn't good enough these days.

### The fish are being put under more and more pressure so your casting has to be spot on. If it has to be within 12in (30cm) of a bush on the island then put it there and not 2ft (60cm) away. Whilst the ability to cast comes chiefly through regular practice, below are a few tips:

### The drop between the tip and the lead is important. Find a length that is comfortable for your style of casting. If it's too long or too short your accuracy will suffer; generally 2ft (60cm) suits most people.

### When attempting an accurate cast, we find it best to stand parallel to the water, holding the rod directly overhead and lining up a mark with the rod. To give you an idea of how the rod should be held, ensure that the reel fittings are directly overhead.

### If you're right-handed, your right hand should be by the reel, retaining the line with the index finger, while your left hand is stretched out in front of your head, holding the end grip.

### When you are ready to cast, pull down with the left hand whilst at the same time pushing upwards and forward with the right. Try to let the rod rather than brute force do the work. This is where practice makes perfect, as you need to get a 'feel' for the rod and the weight of the lead being used.

### If it helps, you need to push and pull with the arms, bringing the lead overhead, and letting the curve of the rod do the work. You should look to be letting go of the line with the right index finger when the rod is out in front at approximately 45 degrees.

### A Step-by-Step Guide to Clipping-Up for Added Accuracy

### If you are able to hit the hotspot time and time again when casting out your hookbait this will certainly help to improve your catch rate. However, unless you are exceptionally gifted at judging distances, casting can sometimes become a chore if you are unable to hit the desired mark within a few casts. The following guide takes a look at a method known as 'clipping-up'. This improves accuracy by restricting the amount of line that can be cast off the spool, thus ensuring that the hookbait cannot be cast past a certain mark.

### 1. Cast the hookbait to the desired position. It may take you a few casts. When there, place the line at the reel end in the clip on the side of the spool. Be careful not to crease the line.

### 2. For reference purposes mark the line at the position of the clip with a permanent marker pen, white correction fluid, or by placing a slither of insulation tape on the line.

### 3. Line up the direction of the cast with a land mark on the horizon, such as a tree or building. A good tip is to use something which will also stand out at night so you can find the direction easily in the dark.

### 4. Now reel in, leaving the line in the clip.

### 5. Re-cast the rod to check that you are hitting the mark exactly. Try not to overpower the cast or the line will stretch and pull the rig towards you and

### out of position.

### 6. When you are happy, unclip the line and place the rod in the rest ready for the action!

### Clipping-up is a simple but very effective way of ensuring your hookbait lands in the correct spot. Its use is not only effective in the short term, but if you store specially marked spools they can also be helpful in the long term. You can also use clipping-up for reaching distant margins which have tricky over-hanging trees, such as those on islands.

### All you have to do is ensure you cast short of the mark to start with. Then estimate how far short of the mark you are, and take this distance of line off the spool and clip-up. Keep taking line off the spool and clipping-up until you hit the mark exactly.

### Reaching the Distance

### Whilst being accurate with your casting proves its worth at catching fish time and time again, it is sometimes necessary to abandon complete accuracy in order to gain a few extra yards.

### Long-range fishing is becoming increasingly essential on some of the hard-fished waters due to the conditioned behavior of the carp forcing them further out. Although most of us tend to rely on boats for that extra bit of distance, on some venues these are outlawed by tight regulations, so you have to be able to cast long range.

### In reality a 100yd cast is a long way for the majority of beginners without the right tools and method.

## Feature Finding With a Rod & Line

###  Feature-finding is a significant contributor to success in carp fishing. Knowledge of the formation of the lake bed gives the carp angler an all-important insight into the possible location of feeding areas, patrol routes or underwater snags.

###  Feature-finding requires a little bit of effort, however, and because of this many anglers ignore it. Feature-finding is not difficult and can be carried out with a boat and echo-sounder or with a rod and line. It takes very little ability to operate an echo-sounder, but feature-finding with a rod and line is an art that needs skill and a lot of perseverance.

### It is also a skill that can be very beneficial to the carp angler when boats and echo-sounders are not allowed. Here's a simple look at how to do it.

### The Tools Required

### Besides the usual rod and reel you will need a marker float, a bead, a lead and a pair of scissors for this job.

### Which marker float and lead you use is entirely up to you, but do remember that the larger the float, the heavier the lead needs to be, otherwise there is a risk that the float will lift the lead off the floor and give a false reading.

### As a guide, you should be fine with a lead in the region of 2 1/2oz (70g) as this will cope with most sizes of float. As for the rod, you are better off using one with a medium test curve or tip action as they will recognize the lake bed a lot more easily than a sloppy or stiff rod.

### Setting Up the Rod

### The setting up of the rod is straightforward. Simply thread the chosen lead onto the line, followed by the bead. Now attach the float to the end of the line with a good strong knot and cut off the excess line.

### Use a Grinner knot as it withstands the constant casting and abuse. Many anglers prefer to use two different set-ups for their feature-finding.

### They use the set-up shown for recording depths, and a further rod which has just the lead attached to the line for checking the composition of the bottom. The choice is yours.

### Checking the Depth

### Once you have rigged up your rod with the chosen equipment, cast it out to the area which you want to check. Try to work your way around the swim in a methodical way. Start off on the left and work your way around to the right (or vice versa).

### To check the depth accurately, tighten up to the lead (making sure that it does not move) and let the line off the spool, counting the depth it requires for the float to appear on the surface. A good tip here is to mark your rod 1ft (30cm) up from the spool to ensure that the depths recorded are as accurate as possible.

### To help you make an accurate account of the depths, record all the information in a book. The best way we know to record the information is with a fan chart. Simply draw a fan of lines in the direction of each cast to be made and plot all the discovered depths. Each line shows the direction of the cast, with a dot showing the point where the depth was recorded.

### Know the Lake Bed

### Dragging the lead to determine the makeup of the bottom is probably the hardest part of feature-finding with a rod and line. There are many different techniques used to drag the lead, but our favorite is to hold the rod at a 45-degree angle and pull the lead along the bottom slowly.

### Use the rod tip as a lever and pull the lead towards you using a sideways movement. Do not do this too quickly or the lead may jump about and give false readings. Keep your eyes on the tip at all times and feel for any vibrations which may be sent up the line.

### The make-up of the bottom is determined by the responses you recognize in these areas. It takes a lot of practice to be proficient at recognizing what texture the lake bed is and only trial and error will help you here. As a guide we have listed below what some of the features feel like when you drag a lead over or through them.

### Gravel: Gravel will cause your rod tip to bounce as you pull the lead over the top of it and you will feel a knocking vibration through the line. Once retrieved you will often discover that the lead has been scarred by the sharp stones.

### Silt: Pulling the lead through silt feels like you are dragging it across cotton wool. The rod tip will not bounce like it does with gravel, but it will bend every time you start to move the lead. The heavier the silt, the more your rod tip will bend when you pull.

### Weed: When pulling through weed, the rod tip will bend as you pull into it and then suddenly spring back as you pull out of it. The heavier the weed is, the harder it will be to pull through and, in most cases, you will drag in a ton of weed.

### Sand: The lead will move nice and smoothly across sandy areas with no resistance on the tip end of the rod.

### Clay: Clay can be discovered on the cast. The lead will normally sink into the clay once it hits the bottom and will usually only come free after a good pull.

### One point worth noting here is that examining the lead after each cast will sometimes reveal strands of weed, gravel scars or fragments of clay or silt, which are all good clues.

### As with depths, keep a record of the different textures of the lake bed that you discover. Record your information on the same map on which you recorded the depths as this will help you to draw up a more accurate final chart. To produce this, simply join up the dots of each group of different features you uncover.

## Playing Fish

### There is nothing more disheartening than waiting ages for a pick-up only to have the fish drop off before it is in the net. The loss of a certain number of fish per season is both inevitable and excusable, and it happens to everyone.

### Sometimes the fish will not have picked up the bait confidently enough, or taken the hook far enough into its mouth to ensure a secure hold is obtained. At other times the fish's mouth is so soft that the hook can be pulled out if the angler does not take care.

### However, many more fish are lost as a result of angler error and, with a little bit of thought, more takes could be converted into fish on the bank. In this basic guide we will consider the main reasons for fish losses after the buzzer has screamed in its excited tone to signify that a carp has picked up the bait.

### The Strike

### How many times have you heard anglers say that they picked up the rod, felt a couple of kicks - and then the line went slack? Some of the time this may be a result of the feeding style and confidence of the fish, but a fair amount of time it will be caused by the way in which the angler struck the run.

### Many anglers feel that they should really bang the hook home even if the buzzer is screaming a single tone, but a lot of the time the fish will have hooked itself and a strong strike will only serve, at worst, to pull out the hook or, at best, to enlarge the hole to increase the risk of a hook-pull later on.

### Gauge the strike according to the speed of the run, the distance you are casting, the action of the rod, and also whether you need to apply a 'hook-and-hold' strategy to keep the fish away from any nearby obstructions. Be especially careful in margin-fishing situations and apply only the minimum amount of pressure to ensure the hook will find its way home.

### The very fact that you are fishing in the margins means that there will be very little line between you and the fish to absorb the shock of any lunges it might make.

### On the other hand there is the scenario where the angler did not strike the run hard enough, and this is particularly common with drop-backs. Something else frequently heard on the banks is that the run was missed, 'but it was a drop-back', as if this was a reasonable excuse for the loss.

### At the end of the day a drop-back is as good as a screamer in that the fish has picked up the bait and is running off with it - albeit towards the angler. All you have to do is adjust your strike to deal with the different situation and there should be no cause for concern.

### There is always the temptation to pick up and strike whilst the rod is in the rest and the buzzer is singing, but doing this will give only a minimal effect at the business end, as most of the force of the strike will have been lost in the bow of line in the water.

### Pick the rod out of the rest and reel in the slack line until you feel the fish. Give the rod a firm strike at this point and you should be attached to a fish.

### As mentioned above, another major cause of fish loss is the fact that a lot of carp have soft mouths, out of which hooks can pull quite easily. This is often the case where fish are silt feeders and so do not have the tough, leathery

### mouths that they would need if they were feeding on snails and crayfish.

### If the fish in your lake are of this type then you will know that special care has to be taken when playing them. Our finding on a number of venues is that your choice of hook is vitally important. Fishabil is a prime example of this.

### Frequently you will lose batches of fish one after the other at this venue. A fine-wire hook is more likely to tear the skin of the mouth, so consider a change of hook pattern if you are encountering this problem. Or try altering the hooklink or hair. Failing that, you will have to rely on your fish-playing capabilities and give the carp as little stick as possible.

### Setting the Reel

### When it comes to playing fish, the clutch on your reel is one of your best allies. It should always be set at a slipping point just below the breaking strain of your line, so that if you get yourself into a danger situation with the fish tearing off and you unable to keep up with it, the clutch will save the day.

### Be careful when fishing near to snags, though, as it may be the case that you do not want to give the fish line under any circumstances. You can also use the clutch to play out your fish, and this method is much smoother than playing off the back-wind, although it does cause the line to twist a lot more, thus reducing its life.

### The clutch will also help you if you fish with stiff rods, where an angry carp on a short line in the margin will not stay on for very long if you are not careful. There is a clutch on every reel so make proper use of it.

### Snagged Fish

### You've managed to get the fish to pick up the bait, the hook has been set properly and the battle has commenced. Five minutes into the fight with a good fish and it makes it to the sanctuary of a sunken tree about 30yd out to your right. What do you do? You tried everything to stop it getting in there, but it made it and now the fish is snagged.

### By all means give it a bit of pressure to see if it will pull out, but don't stand there tugging for ages or point the rod at the snag and walk backwards pulling for a break. This will almost certainly end up in a lost fish, and one which is probably tethered.

### At the very least the fish will suffer some damage as a result of the stress of the pull. If possible, seek assistance or use a boat. Wade out, but only if it is safe to do so. Alternatively put the rod back into the rest and open the bale arm or loosen the clutch. This will often encourage the fish swimming out of its own accord, leaving you to carry on the battle with neither your tackle nor the fish any worse for the experience.

### Battling under the Rod Tip

### Whilst we all like a good scrap, the object of the game is to get the fish into the net as soon as possible. To delay matters gives the fish more of a chance to escape - the hook-hold will loosen as the fish twists and turns - and will only result in exhaustion of the carp, not to mention your nerves.

### As the fish gets nearer to the bank it is advisable, if at all possible, to keep low to the ground. The fish obviously knows that it is hooked, but the sight of the angler often has the effect of spooking the carp even more, causing it to make a quick dash for freedom.

### Dress in sombre-colour clothing - bright apparel will stand out more than a dull green or brown. Have your landing net close to hand so that you don't need to shuffle around trying to find it, and try to keep any bankside disturbance to a minimum. Normally when an angler has a fish on, a crowd of onlookers gathers.

### Ask them to keep quiet, and pay no attention to any remarks they might make. Concentrate only on the job at hand, and worry about the well- wishers when the fish is in the net.

### Most fish with a mate who can assist with landing a fish, but even if you do - and obviously if you fish on your own - it is worthwhile becoming competent at landing your own fish. There may come a time, especially at night, when you will be on your own and if you always rely on someone else you might find yourself in trouble.

### In our case we almost always land our own fish even if we are doubled up in a swim, and would certainly not trust anyone else to land a fish for us. We have heard no end of stories of anglers who have lost fish through the overzealous attempts of others to net their fish for them.

### If you lose it, you only have yourself to blame. Finally on this point, it goes without saying that you should always have everything to hand, and know exactly where your net and other essential items are, so that you do not have to shuffle around trying to find things and risk losing your fish.

### Before you are in a position to land a fish, you should consider exactly where you are going to carry out the operation. Make sure that the water is sufficiently deep to enable you to bring the fish into the margins to net it. If it isn't, consider wading out if it is safe enough to do so.

### Many fish are lost by dragging them through shallow water, and the sight of a fish grounded in the margins just out of reach of the landing net is not a pretty one. If you do decide to wade out, be very careful that the bottom of the lake is not too silty.

### The last thing you want to do is to get yourself stuck in the mud. Be aware of any marginal snags or obstructions in the water that might impede the landing of the fish, and try to keep it from getting into these in the first place to save you having to wading out to free it.

### Netting the Fish

### One of the main danger times is when the carp is being drawn towards the net and sees it for the first time. The fish might not initially realize that it is so close, but once it sees the net it will often make a sharp dash for freedom.

### On a short line this can be fatal as the stretch in the line will be minimal, and if you are using a stiff rod and do not control the carp properly, it is likely the hook will pull free. This is where the clutch comes in. If it has been set properly you should have no problems.

### Do not try to bully the carp into the net at this stage as one false move could mean all is lost. You will know when the fish is ready as it will give itself up.

### The final netting process is as important as any of the points we have considered. Do not try to chase the fish around with the net as you will, at the very least, scare it or, worse still, knock it off the hook.

### Sink the mesh until only the spreader block is above the water, and draw the fish over the cord until its nose is almost touching the spreader block before

### lifting the net. It is a good idea to tuck the mesh into the gap between the spreader block and the main part of the mesh itself.

### This holds the bottom of the mesh tight to the net and helps prevent snagging on the bottom of the lake as well as reducing the drag on the mesh, making it easier to move through the water.

### If you do net a fish for someone else, get them to bring the fish to you as opposed to you chasing around after it. If it does come off you can guarantee that you will, at least in part, be blamed for the loss.
