I’m using a classic combination of flavors — fig and goat cheese — for an
ingredient-led recipe with Balsamic
Vinegar of Modena: Crottin de Chavignol
cheese, black mission figs and a fig jam
baked inside a Feuillete case. It starts
with a jam of diced black mission figs,
sugar, water, lemon juice and dried orange
peel. Which are reduced to create a thick,
tart and fruity composition. The jam
serves as the base for this recipe and
creates balance with the creamy goat
cheese and rich puff pastry. I'm
developing a fluid gel from the balsamic
to allow the ingredient to stand out and
bring pops of acidity to every bite.
I make the gel by gently heating
balsamic and agar in a saucepan, holding
at 92 degrees celsius for three minutes
to activate the hydrocolloid.
Chilling the mixture allows it to set.
After cooling, the mixture rest for a few
hours and turns into what you would
recognize as a jelly, which is blended to
achieve the right viscosity.
The agar forms a brittle gel when set.
And then xanthan gum transforms it into
a fluid gel for a pleasing mouthfeel.
They work together in harmony to create
the right texture for piping the gel.
It has the correct viscosity when it
forms a teardrop shape that's bulbous at
the bottom. Traditionally the dish is
drizzled with balsamic. With gel, the
balsamic doesn't lose its impact or get
lost among the other components. Either
matured or aged balsamic can be used
for this technique. The flavor of the
matured pairs well with the goat cheese,
jam and figs. Selecting a balsamic depends
on the dish that you're using it for: The
matured balances sweet flavors because
of its astringency. It adds a touch of
drama to the presentation of my dish.
