Hi, Vince here with completo remodeling
and in this video you're gonna learn how
to inlay to a laminate kitchen
countertop which is new and it must be
new quartz
Karran sink which is labeled q 340 so the
first thing you'll do is you'll set up
your Karran sink upside down on your
stock countertop and i've already done
that and this is an edge sink so we're
going to inlay this in the countertop
using bondo as recommended by the
manufacturer so the first thing to do is
to set your sync up center which i've
done here after a 36 sink base after a
32 quarts sink then you gonna flip it
upside down and you're going to allow
for how far you want your sink to sit
back so this being the rim is not the
sink when you're completed this will be
the stinkface so you need to remember
that when you're fabricating this ends
up at about three inches and if you
follow this to the backside we end up
with more than four and a quarter which
will be more than enough to get our
faucet in there and not impede the
windowsill
okay now this countertop is just sitting
there it's not melted but when we find
our backsplash we gave it a little
tolerance so we can slide right back
under it with the laminate attached so
once you receive your sink and you place
it in the center what you're going to do
is you're going to scribe with your
pencil and always leave the pencil kind
of like a stand off so I can get the
mark that I want roughly about a quarter
inch around the perimeter
and the reason you're gonna do that is
when you bond over this in and fabricate
it to the wood you're gonna pack fill
that with bondo which you'll see in the
next step so once we establish where
we're gonna cut our countertop then it's
safe to remove your sink your cutout in
the countertop so we're gonna do that
first off okay the easiest way to cut
your countertop is using a jig saw and
I'm using a good wood jigsaw blade which
is a clean cut and he's just gonna go
right down the line I won't show you all
of it because it's kind of obvious
okay we finished cutting out our
countertop this is your front obviously
got your back so we should have plenty
of room here to get our faucet in once
this is completed and actually pour all
the way up to about here anyway so now
we have our 32 inch sync with our
fabricated cutout and what we're gonna
do first is clean and get up all this
sawdust we're gonna clean the entire
countertop because you wanna be is
contaminated free as possible and then
we'll go to the next step
okay we're back once your sink is cut
out what you're gonna do is take your
countertop and turn it upside down this
is our front and then you're gonna lay
your sink into the hole or using another
countertop that we made for an island
that we're going to use which is gonna
give us a nice flush plane to work on
now this is the front obviously this is
the back and what you're going to do is
a position to sink so you have an equal
gap all the way around it as you can see
this way and what we're doing is we're
just setting it up for size just to make
sure this is where we wanted to go and
it looks like it's pretty good if you're
looking got about a quarter inch all the
way around it okay so that's about where
the sink is going to go so the first
thing we're gonna do is we're gonna add
some cross support now we can do it
across the corners you could do it down
the rail and that's nearly just going to
be wood itself same composite material
were Pinewood and we're gonna glue and
attach that to give that sink base
support for its weight and this is a
little bit close here so we might take
this build up off and simply just move
it over so we're gonna do that now and
then we'll get back to it so you can see
what that looks like okay so we're back
and here's what you're gonna do you're
gonna line up your sink how do you think
it's going to be in there and don't get
upset because it doesn't have to be
permanent this is just so you can put
side and underside mount supports so
what I'm using is about a two and
three-quarter inch piece of pine it is
scrap pine that I had leftover doesn't
really matter and what you're doing is
you're going to put this down as a
support and support the side here I'm
gonna support the other side and then
what I'll probably do is put a little
partial support to the back stopping
here
and then probably stopping here I'm
gonna leave this free for my faucet area
so first thing we're gonna do is we're
gonna come over here and we're gonna
take this piece here and we're gonna do
a couple things with it we're gonna add
glue to it but if you look this way
we're only gluing on the wood so the
idea of that is to take your piece put
some wood glue on it position your piece
down and this is your end you can see
the end of the sink alright we want to
be able to cover the sink but we don't
want to be tight on the sink so you want
to back it off a little bit and what
we're going to do is we're just gonna
Brad it in for now but we are gonna
screw it
so I'll get a couple Brad's going here
be sure not to shoot a brad into your
court sink and ruin it you know make
sure you're on the outer half okay just
adjust your piece here a little bit
temporarily Brad it in okay now we know
we're safe with that and that's good
you're gonna come over here you're gonna
do the other side so I'm gonna flip this
in you see my glue will be on the
counter top portion okay we're going to
support that wiggle it a little bit that
are a glue activated and that's it now
see how we have about not quite a
quarter inch gap same thing not quite a
quarter inch gap that gives us play that
we can move this sink around we're going
to progress to the second part so we're
going to Brad it in
and that's it now I do recommend that
you add a couple screws into the
five-eighths are usually more than
enough you don't want to come through
okay actually less than an inch of
five-eighths because you only have an
inch and a half here so what you do is
just put a screw here put a screw here I
put a screw here and that secures you'll
never have to worry about anything
coming apart so we'll be back alright so
you gonna put three screws down each
side over here yep good never done this
we'll do the other side okay so if we
add the two more back braces left the
middle open for the faucet area so we
have three sides fully supported which
is more than enough now we're going to
lift off the countertop up and over and
stand it up okay and then we're gonna
move our sink out of the way set that
aside so it's safe and we're gonna take
the countertop
slide it back over
we're gonna lay it back down all right
and you can see your supports now
obviously you can't put yourself back in
there so we need to avoid area which is
going to be down at the end so we're
gonna split this between the island and
the second for the countertop where we
cut the original right from the
beginning and that's what you want so
now you have an area that you can
fabricate and bond in your sink of
course is gonna set the sink back in
you're gingerly hold it to the back so
you wanna spin it spin it around and
gingerly and I'll help them real quick
and straight down the fingers all right
and then that's it so now your sink is
now sitting where it should sit less
adjustments so what you do is you just
adjust your tolerances okay maybe a
little more to the front and that's
pretty good now we'll proceed to the
next part okay so we're back now we have
our supports in and what we did was
position the sink basically where we
think we're gonna need it first thing
you're gonna make sure that you do is
you have to hide it a sake and there's a
reason you're gonna do that the sink
itself should stick up slightly above
and then when I say slightly maybe
thirty seconds of an inch so you can see
right now see the gap under the sink
right now it sinks it's too low I can't
touch the sink with with the
straightedge so what you want to do
using little I like these hard cardboard
little thin pieces something that
doesn't have cushion and it won't bounce
and I'll show you this side we already
shimmed
so you can get a quick demonstration and
when you look at the sink now and you
look at it from the edge you can see
barely the edge of the sink sticking up
you take your level
you can see I'm just now hitting it okay
there's no gap underneath of this level
right now so now take a look at it with
the shin there's a micro hair of
daylight that micro hair of daylight is
about 1/32 of an inch anything more than
that and you create an issue with your
sink following Frost we have a slight
gap and the reason that you do that is
once this is bonded in and sand it out
it'll be a very smooth unnoticeable
transition but the idea and that is
you'll be able to bond right to the
courts and right to the Fargo right to
the bondo that's attached and bonding to
sink in and it also gives you a wash
away meaning that your little won't
collect right here when the edge of the
sink all the way around but the idea is
you have to have your laminate secured
to the edges sink that by having a
slight lift on it and according to the
manufacturer it's about 1/32 of an inch
if that much so over on this side just
looking at this we see countertop
whipping up so what we're gonna do is
we're gonna add a couple shims to it and
this is all you really need to do it's a
little awkward
you wanna place your shim in there and
run another to the middle right and then
we'll run one more at the end okay and
take that one and we'll put it behind me
okay we adjusted our sink in all four
corners to give us the perfect height
that we need you can barely see that
sink above it and again very little bait
low underneath the level so we're
adjusting this side does it be the same
you know that 1/32 of an inch and you
can see it's just about where we needed
to dig now I've put a support here on
the back end because the distance here
creates too much sag and we don't want
to be off with the sink so now our next
area of concern is we're going to paper
fill and mask it off the edge of the
sink to keep it clean and protected so
we'll be back okay because the courts
interior the sink is finished and
polished tape will not stick so the
easiest thing that I can tell you to do
put a little piece of paper on the
inside just got a brief rim here of tape
the bondo is gonna come all the way over
but when I finish the bondo I'll pull
the tape and then this way I don't make
too big of a mess now we're going to mix
some bondo which is bondo body filler
believe it or not so we got about a 7
inch puddle here pretty thick so we got
a lot to do so it's about an inch and a
quarter so we're gonna add three strikes
a hardening cream right across you gotta
grab the thing go one more pretty thin
on it okay that's gonna activate and
harden the bondo so you're just gonna
mix it and you want to mix that
hardening creams directly in it and I
recommend using some kind of surface
that is laminated so it doesn't stick to
it and you can drag it right off of it
kind of like you're repairing a car
you've ever done one so it's important
to try to get the ratio of the hardening
down
when in doubt you can always add a
little bit more to it you just better
work quick because after a while this
will begin to harden we're going to do
this in two sections hopefully we'll do
one half at one shot and then we'll be
able to do the other half at another
shot with a second mix alright so we
think we're into the point here where we
should have enough hardening agent in
there there's no real way to tell I'm
gonna put a little more on it just to be
safe and we're gonna mix that in now as
long as you're mixing this it won't
harden up on you but once it's done
mixed and it starts to sit there's a
chemical reaction here and it will
harden up right away on you it'll start
to look coagulated then it's no good you
want to keep the creaminess here and
that's what gives you the work so now
once we have it set up now we're ready
to go we're gonna grab some we're going
to push it into the quartz and you're
gonna push it into the crack and drag it
and you're pushing into the crack you
want to fill the entire crack try not to
make too big of a mess you want to try
to fill the crack and then come back and
try us with it it's this indent that you
say is what you need to fill so we've
got quite a bit here to do okay jump
forward so after your bondo is fully
pressed in what you're gonna do is
you're going to start sanding which is
pretty boring so real quick I'll show
you the easy way with what I use I just
use a corner mouse whatever you can use
any kind of you use a rotary sander you
can use just a square stock sand or
anything that's a sander I start out
with 80 grit and a reason 80 grit is
this bondo gets pretty damn tough the
sand
so if you start out what 80-grit okay
there's no smooth and I can see I'll wet
that wiping it down okay but you get a
nice smooth transition if you start with
your eighty you'll get the bulk of it
off and then I always end up DUP
switching over to 120 or you can even do
150 so don't be surprised if you have
divots canals areas that you might have
to touch back up with a second coat
that's fine too but the idea is you want
to transition and what you should look
like at the very end if you take it
close up with this you'll see let's
focus in okay you have a smooth bond all
the way across and when I say smooth
that's like b-b-but smooth okay you can
see I'm drying from wiping it down but
you need a good transition all the way
across into the edge you don't want to
lump you know what humps you know and
anything that's going to cause or pop
that laminate up from the edge of the
sink and I remember this edge of the
sink was about 1/32 inch higher than the
rest of the deck platform so if you come
out with your bondo about six six inches
that's more than enough to give you a
transition that is almost really
undetectable if you know it's there
that's one issue but if you're feeling
it and you can feel transition but you
don't feel a wave or a lump then you
know you're pretty good okay another
issue though is once you do your prefab
on your laminate as soon as you laid on
there you'll get an idea as to whether
or not you're missing or not so if
you're gonna take a quick look this way
amber we showed a little bit of an
uplift in the laminate and now we're
perfectly flush and we have a transition
to the side okay so I hope the video
helped you out if it does don't forget
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watching
