What's up Crafty People? I'm Michael, this is Baddest Crafts,
and today I  have a followup from my last video on
Unboxing and building my snapmaker and testing out some
of the  Laser Engraving and 3D Printing.
I'm actually going to test out my brand new enclosure.
This is the only accessory that I bought from Snapmaker
beyond the actual Snapmaker 2.0.
I want to show the unboxing and
putting it together, how it works out. Then I'm also going to
try out the CNC  capabilities.
I'm excited about this video and I hope you stay to the end to see what we create!
Let's get unboxing!
Oh, this is always the best part!
Opening up new things to play with!
Heck Yes!
They give this really nice guide.
Ok. Here we go.
Got a nice fan here.
Lots of individual pieces and parts. There is quite a bit here actually
I'm somewhat surprised things are powered.
Maybe that's just for the fan.
Exhaust dust and clamp.
Tools and accessories.
All 1 piece.
More of these.
You can see some fancy LEDs in here.
That's going to be nice to brighten up the inside and see really easily.
This looks like some of that protective glass.
It's not glass, it's plastic, but it looks like
it is heavily shielded to block a lot of the laser beams.
From the laser engraver.
That's a really big plus, I think.
It looks nice.There are a couple of scratches already [just the outside plastic that peals away].
 
 
That's it! It looks like we unboxed a bed for my dog.
The first step that we are going to do is build the bottom base frame.
They have some pretty hefty duty corner edges here.
 
Place these together.
Ok! The next step is to add this Touch Screen Holder.
Time to build us a cube!
Start building up.
Looks like we put the 4 posts on, but we have to be really careful
because this one is special compared to the others so it has to go near the touch screen.
So I have my base.
I've got my posts.
And now we have to put on the top and play some Minecraft.
Ok! We have are nice exhaust port setup.
That fits nice and tight. The wingnuts
Work really well. And now we have to just put our bolts in this
and hold it to the actual back-plane  and then we will have one side on
and complete so we can move on. So what we are doing now is
actually hooking up the lighting inside
and this door switch.
It's pretty easy to mate the connectors
perfectly. The connectors already exist.
And they plug in really easily so
all I have to do is just
plug it in.
Take it to the inside.
Snapmaker is pretty smart. They have these nice little
plastic brackets and instead of having some ugly
zip ties and things to hold the wires to your channel,
all the wires fit right inside these grooves
that look like this. Snap them into place.
It holds the wire up nice and tidy and you will never see the wire again!
It's time to cage the beast!
It feels oversized, but I think it is going to do the trick.
So they have these little foot clamps.
And they are not so much clamps as they go right around the
foot to make sure that the placement of the Snapmaker is
in direct center of the enclosure
Let's try to get it lined up as best we can.
We have to plug in our expansion to
the controller itself. That way the cage is going  to actually get lit.
Ok. That was easy.
Time to take off all the plastic.
This enclosure looks really slick.
Ok. I put these little brackets in.
And n ow all I have to do is slide them right in [to the frame].
And then I will pull it across and pull this back in here.
So my door will slide back and forth really easily.
It's nice because it is magnetic too.
That's really nice!
I have complete access and I am able to get in here.
Do whatever I need to.
Close it back up.
It took me a little bit to figure out what was going on... because I powered it up
and I didn't get the lights on. I didn't get the fan to come on at all.
And I realized I had to update the firmware.
So if you get yours and you haven't updated the firmware, you may
not be able to use your enclosure to the most of it's abilities.
Now that it is there,
our new button enclosure pops up right there.
I can turn on the lights... which look,
so nice.
This is really, really well lit now.
And then I can turn on the cooling fan.
Feels good.
I've got the enclosure built, it's happy.
Now I'm going to work on the CNC portion of it.
I'm going to take this Laser Engraver off.
Put the new Tool Head on,
and then change out the base.
So that way we have a nice CNC Base.
We'll keep working from there.
So before we get any further, what I'm going to do is
transition over to some software.
Snapmaker has put out Snapmaker Luban, which is their
3D printing, Laser Engraving, and the start of the CNC
capabilities on the machine.
From there [Luban] you can interface directly with the machine.
I'm going to go to a virtual environment and
give you a chance to peek behind the curtain.
*Keyboard Clicks*
Alright.
So what you are seeing in front of you is Snapmaker Luban.
If you haven't seen it before, it is really just Snapmaker's design software.
You can see on COM3
I should be able to just pick my machine,
pick my process,
and go!
Now I'm connected to it.You can see on the left
side it switched away from the Laser Engraver
and away from the 3D printer.
The only option I now have is the CNC Code Generator.
This is Snapmaker's quick little attempt
at giving you CNC capabilities without
digging too deep.
I'm going to be doing a relief, and I
have picked out this awesome Kraken picture.
I'm going to make it the size that I want.
And then I'm going to,
set all of my settings up just for the wood.
So I have put in all of my working parameters.
Since I'm working with [hard] wood, they recommend
a work speed of 420 [mm/min]. I am going to switch
this [plunge speed] to 420 as well. And then the step-down [per layer] is 0.5 mm.
I actually the auto-preview.
I think it was really helpful for me because every time you make a
small tweak, it wants to go back and
review the whole image. What I'm going to do
now is just show you. This is its assumption as
to how it is going to look. And they are trying to do a 3D model here
to show you exactly what it is going to look like.
Obviously they don't do every single little piece, but
it's kind of cool, kind of helpful. And we are going to just click generate G-Code.
Load G-Code to Work Space.
So before I actually hit the start button and get it kicked off.
What I have done is put a work
origin immediately in the direct
center of our piece of wood.
With our bit touching the wood itself.
I really like to use this Run Boundry. I'm going to go ahead and click it.
You can see what it does is go to the far edges of the
anywhere that the G-Code would suggest
that it is going to go. And that is just going to make sure that we don't
hit any of our holders [clamps], anything
that isn't the wood, that could be hit and cause a problem.
You can run it on different speeds.
Through this interface over here you have
lots of different speeds that you can use.
It's like 200, 500,
up to 3000 [mm/min].
And that just gives you full control over the machine.
We now know all of our holders are out of the way and we are not
going to accidentally hit anything. So I would say we are pretty good.
Alright, I think we are ready to push the start button.
Let's go!
Oh man. So this really failed.
It is all to do with the bit that I'm using.They didn't
send send one of the carving bits
with the Snapmaker so you can see this is
rounded over and it has some nice round edges,
but that's not what I was hoping for.
There is is some good detail.
I don't know if it is showing up on the camera, but you can feel the Kraken
logo, you can feel eyes
and some of the other details. If we had the right bit I'm pretty
confident we would have been able to be successful.
I'm going to try this with a different project. Something that
is a little more suited for that round-over bit that I have
already in the Snapmaker.
Round 2. What I'm going to do
now, instead of trying to do something really complex,
is I have created an image with my
logo, the Baddest Crafts logo. I am just going to do a vector cutout.
Which means I'm going to do an outline of
what it actually looks like. I'm going to rotate it because my
chunk of wood is taller than it is wide.
So I got there by clicking the ball end mill, which is what I have. And vector
and selecting my SVG which I created
from GIMP. Which is Free Editing Software.
I just selected the individual parts and then created a path
from it. And from there I exported
an SVG [file]. I can talk about that
in another video if you guys are interested, but that's how I got this image.
Now I'm going to say, alright, let's preview it.
There are only a couple of times when it plunges. [The tall lines sticking up].
And then it cuts the whole way through. So it will be a lot easier to do this one.
And it will take a lot less time.
Generate G-Code.
And load G-Code to Workspace.
And you can see, it knows "ok I need to go between these
different spots. I'm going to be switching sometimes."
And it just plans the entire path. That the G-Code
is going to execute.
We are just finished up running the boundaries.
Now we are going to go ahead and get started.
Much better.
Look at that!
Obviously we had a fail here.
In this case, if you remember, we were trying to do some nice
detail relief carving.
It definitely did not come through because we were using that round-over [Ball End] bit.
With a quick change, giving it an outline,
and a project that the round-over bit successful at,
I am very happy with the 20 minute cut that came through.
Definitely a plus there.
If you haven't had a chance to watch
my first video on the Snapmaker,
I unboxed it and showed off the Laser Engraving and 3D Printing.
Definitely go checkout that video!
It will give you a good idea of what other things this
beautiful machine can do.
If you like this video, remember to give it a thumbs up.
It's going to really help my channel
and give me a chance to do a lot more projects and show them off with you!
