hey everybody Randy Richard in the
shop this is a steam engine part 2
I should say that is the part number 2
the second part of the steam
engines build it's going to be the base
we got the cylinders all done now that
took several videos to really show how
to do all that right you know
we're going do the bases I should
say where's the other one there we go
and this is the brass one and we'll turn
around here and I'll show it gives you
some close-up lumen um one and we'll try
to get these done and we'll do them
together just like we're doing the
cylinders to get these two steam engines
to come to fruition kind of both at
the same time that way I'm kind of
done with those ones right via very
similar that way and the same machine no
way I kind of save up a tooling time and
you know doing setups over and over
again so much so that's why I'm doing
them all at the same time and well let's
take a closer look at them and see what
we got here there's the two bases you
know this one here is the kind of
already marked up a little bit right and
I also did a little bit of machining on
it already yeah I did this while I was
doing the cylinders I ran into it when
I did all the modeling for this way when
I did all the modeling I noticed a few
things and I decided to try to maybe
maybe correct a little bit of it and
make it make this a little bit better so
in the in the drawings that I got with
this that the holes in the bosses they
weren't really in the middle of the boss
for these shafts well let's see what why
why is that right now that the holes for
the bores for the shafts weren't in the
middle of the boss on the drawing don't
and I made a drawings and
I mean I redrew the whole thing and I go
well what can I can I get that so the so
the holes are in the middle of the
bosses it would just look a little bit
better and so I kind of had to change
some dimensions and I put them I put the
bores in the middle of the bosses so I
had to measure this it accurately to
figure out where that would be exactly
and that's why so what I did is I ended
up I decided I'd machine the whole end
up off of this to square it up I machine
the base and and the CM and then this
surface here where the where the piston
the cylinder right top this is a
reference surface here the top and so I
made the end of reference service and
then this side is a reference surface so
that's how I machined it using this
mainly using this side as a reference
and then making that all to that and
then the base to this and I've marked
out you know I figured out exactly where
the well relatively exactly where these
centers are these bosses were and in
doing that that led to changing a couple
of dimensions on this on the cylinder
itself and because of the stroke I was
able to keep the stroke the same
actually but by changing just a little
bit of the dimension on the cylinder I
could make this all work a little bit
better and I changed the I think the
length of the connecting rod a tiny bit
to to get a good full effective stroke
and and I also adjusted the porting to
line up a little bit better
oh not the spacing of where the ports
are in here left that the same just the
angle of the port in the cylinder
in the they had on there 30 degrees on
the cylinder and I made it 28 degrees
and if you see the previous video you'll
see I was using 28 degrees and that's
why so that because I changed the length
on the one end a little bit to give me a
little bit clearance more on the end of
the connecting rod and it fixed the
stroke a little bit by moving the
cylinder back a little bit and it's
aesthetically I think it would be a
little bit better looking in I think
it's actually going to work a little
better because the port line up this
should be a lot better especially on the
rotational part not but not going past
the port so much the model looks real
good and so that's why this one is our
machine this one a little bit already
but I mean I made the cylinder the same
for the other engine and this one is a
different kind of engine know where
there's a there's a rocking beam alright
and the cylinder is vertical and rocks
back and forth like that but anyway
that's a this is the 2007 one and this
was 2005 so we have a low
we haven't I didn't do any machining on
this one yet so I got a lot of long
machine here to do here the drawing for
the smaller engine the aluminum m the
horizontal engine this is the base for
it so I think everything's pretty much
on here the only thing I noticed I
didn't do is put the diameter of the
portholes on here that so I have
adjusted a little bit the sizing from
the original JA drawings the distance
between these two bores so that they
would Center up in the hub and actually
that's probably the only real dimension
I changed was that on here on the base
is the center to Center does
since there and I adjusted the end from
the end also a tiny bit it's very very
close to what it was originally but I
since I did mill this hole in I adjusted
this to be more accurate and get the
board's in the center so that's about it
tell me how you like this looking at
drawing this way this is on a computer
screen here in the shop and it's kind of
nice because I can actually use a
pointer instead of a mouse to point out
any specific details over here it shows
you the angle of the ports over here and
now this is this drawing here is is
showing you pretty much the whole thing
in one shot if I would just separate it
out I could I could show this in more
detail obviously on a separate page
which I still might do is so you can so
you could see all this stuff a little
bit better that way they could be larger
on the sheet I have the base mounted
here in the I'm a milling machine and
what I did is I have a parallel up
against the reference surface against a
fixed jaw so that will hold that fairly
it's a thick parallel to a half an inch
thick and so that hold that pretty much
perpendicular with the parallel with the
fixed jaw and then I threw another one
in here and that's resting on the face
where the cylinder goes this is the
important side right now and then I just
threw money here for it to kind of sit
on give me a little bit of a height and
then what I did is I ran this the dial
indicator in test indicator across here
now there's a little hollow spot in here
but I've got it pretty flat within a
thousandth or a couple thousands I
should say from ND and so I'm pretty
happy with how this is mounted I think
it's going to be
statements solid enough to deck that off
what was it I'm gonna hit with a firefly
cutter and
yeah we'll turn off some lights here and
well run the indicator kind of across
here so right at the end and you know
I'm 1 mm and a little low spot right
there in the middle and it kind of comes
back up here at the end and about the
same area 1 mm so I'm pretty happy with
that and then it's sloped that direction
in this direction it's you know it is
what it is the the reference surfaces
are what I'm more concerned about having
this side parallel and Square to the
fixed jaw so when I deck this off
hopefully those are going to be pretty
square
well WD
now I'm running my fly cutter there at
1,850 rpm roughly
it's my John Kasich flight color I love
this thing a lot of mass to it holds a
big tool I got a high speed tool in
there
and it does a great job solid
those two cuts of 25,000 each now I will
do about maybe ten more here I just
gonna take off the bare minimum just so
it all cleans up the only spots not
cleaned up was over there
let's slow it down for the final here
very smooth machine mark wise and
there's a little bit that little
harmonics or something over here in the
corners but it's smooth you can't really
feel anything so I'm pretty happy now
that'll be fine for the bass just fine
I just set that right down on the bed of
the vise nice and solid clamped in there
nothing special I have about about
50,000 I need to take off of this top
here 2.1 is my height that way I can
measure right from here to the to the
bed we got a high speed steel Niagra
cutter in here for flute 3/4 inch
it has cleaned off about 20 20 thousands
just so I can get a good measurement
here and I'm just using a height gauge I
mean a depth gauge height gate depth
gauge here and we can just set that on
the flat and
limit to 121 it's about 21 thousands
this creep up on it here we're gonna do
15 and measure it again
six thousandths and it makes it 21 so
that was pretty good
and always make sure your works right
before you take it out you can
now half thousands low it's okay
half thousands will take that I have a
7/8 for flute
high speed steel and was that three
something inches almost four inches
depth of cut I don't know where I got
this one anyway
I it's enough here it's two point one
inches so I have enough here to face
that whole thing off in one or a couple
passes I should say that but the whole
height at once and should I have it set
for the ones nice kind of square edge
huh on there so should be fairly square
with everything kinda
well a little bit of rough this air in
the middle not too bad and we will file
that a little bit or something but not
too bad it's really non-critical
services more to clean it up so we can
put the ports and and something to
measure from even though they don't
measure really from there but we I want
to measure from a fixed surface we're
looking good here base against the fixed
jaw reference surface underneath on top
of a nice big thick thick parallel which
I need to probably tap down a little bit
huh
yeah there we go
yeah yeah it's a cast surface it's not
like perfectly flat that is pretty nice
and that's tight and then we're gonna
we're gonna mill this off to get this to
the prescribed thickness whatever to
that yes I'll go look at what what that
is and so much from the reference
surface so although they'll reach in
there with a mic and measure that so
this thickness will be six hundred
thousandths and we were about 648 right
now
let us get this flat so we can get a
measurement and know exactly how much we
need to take off here
39
sixteen hippie last cut
so far the caffeine is very nice not any
inclusion so far or really any Sandover
it's a pretty nice casting
hmm yeah sure clean here I'm measuring
remember the other sites a caste inside
so you know how 603 and a half 603
oh man 601 tenth
any queer 600 right there 601 there okay
so good now we need to deck this off
now we're looking at from the reference
surface which will be now it will be the
top of the parallel 0.77 - so we're
gonna clean it up first
I'll just reach over there measure this
so we're looking at 27 more thousands
off of there
three more
all right no money 7-7 - all right I'll
pop it out we'll do the other side
I'm not drilling these holes yet until I
actually determine placement that's why
I'm not doing me out we have to put it
back in again I flipped the part over
big parallel underneath against that
this the surface that we machined for
the cylinder this is the reference
surface side this needs to be 525 above
the reference but I'm just gonna add the
600 that's here this is really could be
15 20 thousands either way cuz this is
just for the spring to push against to
hold the cylinder tight so this is
doesn't have to be super super accurate
really so I'm just going to use the
other side when we'll be within five
thousands without a problem so I need to
be an intern eight from the parallel so
I have about 25 dollars really up I'm
just going to clean it up
actually I might just leave it just like
that it's cleaned up but it has that
nice little round radius right there
from the caste which looks kind of nice
I think I'm just going to leave it just
like that just 15 20 thousands either
way isn't gonna make a lick of
difference on the with the spring push
them there I like that look
this is enough on a couple small V
blocks with a gap in between so I can
drill right in through this yeah I've
got my scribe point in there just to
double check my slit ascribe lines I had
and it's right on the money and it looks
real good it's right in the middle yeah
that's better than a wiggler
there we reamed it two 5/16 and this is
a 3 1 - pin - and that goes in just
beautiful yeah that's beautiful there's
gonna be a bushing in here because the
shaft is only three sixteenths
for that that's perfect in the three
three one three oh I could pound it in I
guess but that's just right so my reamer
did a great job on that not all rumors
are bad perfect now we'll move over and
drill down
moved over to the other one in the same
line inch and a half and then to point
149 over and we are right looking real
good really nice I'll be fine this is a
3/8 hole this one
all right reamed it to 375 and 374 goes
in there real easy actually just real
nice actually be 75 is nice it's a
little bit goes but it's snug I now
leave it I'm gonna put bushings in here
also so I'll be fine and 376 100 so
we'll just uh well just do that call
that good now we gotta flip it over and
we have two holes on the end of end to
do and the ports to do on the other side
and the count and the counterbore also
